Category: UK

  • Gainsborough – Carnegie Library

    Gainsborough – Carnegie Library

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    There’s something beautiful about a Carnegie library, not just in the architecture, but also in the aspirations behind it. Andrew Carnegie, perhaps one of the greatest of the philanthropists, paid for thousands of public libraries and kick-started the process in many areas when local authorities were taking too long to provide resources. It was designed by Scorer and Gamble and opened in 1905, with the building purposely being in keeping with the Old Hall opposite.

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    The building is the oldest purpose-built library in Lincolnshire and its external beauty and internal structure have stood the test of time. Personally, I was less engaged with the library as the building now seems cluttered and it felt more structured looking at older photos. I excitedly went upstairs to see the reference section, but the local history books have mostly been locked away with no guidance provided about whether they were accessible or not. If old books need protection, whether because they are slightly fragile or whether they are valuable, then put them into locked storage, but get rid of physical barriers to the others. I did also slightly cringe at the number of books standing at an angle, but they had Pevsner and that’s my slightly odd base line of what I expect a library to have.

    Anyway, this was one library where I didn’t feel comfortable, so I left quite quickly, but it’s great to see Carnegie’s legacy has prevailed and the building remains in use. My slight obsession (if someone can be slightly obsessed, is that a thing?) with local history does leave me with a concern though regarding whether a youngster with a slight interest in the town’s heritage would find something here to inspire them, and I fear that they might not.

  • Gainsborough – Gainsborough Hotel (White Hart)

    Gainsborough – Gainsborough Hotel (White Hart)

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    This rather charming hotel seems to have had an interesting few years. It has a long history since it opened in the eighteenth century, but the police and licensing authorities shut it down in 2018 following a series of drug incidents and violent disorder. The owner was a former councillor, so the local media seems to have had a field day reporting that. It was known as the White Hart, but was rebranded after the closure as the Gainsborough Hotel to try and give it a new lease of life. It now appears to be closed and locked up, a sub-optimal situation for the owners. I can’t see anything in the local media as to why it’s closed, or whether it’s reopening again soon, although the reviews suggest that it has had a troubled couple of years. It’s a shame that it’s closed though, the building is beautiful and in its prime it must have been an important part of the local community. The cost of renovating a hotel such as this would be substantial though, especially as it’s a Grade II listed building.

  • Gainsborough – 40 Day Capital of England

    Gainsborough – 40 Day Capital of England

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    Back on Christmas Day 1013, Sweyn Forkbeard (the son of Harald Bluetooth) swept into England and pronounced himself as King. He arrived in Gainsborough by sailing up the River Trent, then legend states that his forces spread across the country and everyone became supporters. That might perhaps be aspirational, but it’s clear that he took control of some significant parts of England and he established himself in Gainsborough to plan his new empire. He then, rather inconveniently for his new nation, died on 3 February 1014, but it’s not known for sure how his death occurred. It did mean that 50-day Liz Truss did manage to outlast at least one leader, although I think it’s fair to say that when her forces spread across the country not many people became supporters. Anyway, I’ve digressed into politics.

    Æthelred the Unready, which actually is perhaps a name that Liz Truss could have used (the Unready bit, I’m not sure Æthelred would have suited her, but I’ve very quietly digressed again), took over the country after Sweyn’s death and Gainsborough’s brief period as the national capital came to an end. History might have been somewhat different if Sweyn had managed to live just a little bit longer, perhaps Gainsborough might have become a regional powerhouse. But, instead, it’s a useful fact that local tourist officials have tried to make something of.

    This blue plaque was erected by the Delvers, a local history group in Gainsborough, who seem to do much good work in the area promoting the town’s heritage.

  • Gainsborough – Thoughts of Pevsner

    Gainsborough – Thoughts of Pevsner

    Sir Nikolaus Pevsner is my favourite architectural historian. Actually, he’s the only one that I can name, but he is such an authority and his judgement always seems sound to me. I was interested to read what he thought about the Lincolnshire town of Gainsborough, but he really wasn’t that keen. He describes it as:

    “One of the dreariest of the Midland red brick towns. The factories are all red brick, and those in the centre cannot for a long time have been proud of the appearance of their buildings. Neither the manufacturers nor the council seem capable of thinking of their town in post-Victorian towns.”

    Pevsner writes interesting walks, or perambulations as he called them, of towns, but he says about Gainsborough:

    “A perambulation around Gainsborough is not necessary nor advocated.”

    Ouch. I actually suspect he would have been less impressed at how it is today, as the council of the 1960s demolished some of the interesting heritage buildings in their road expansion obsession.

  • Gainsborough – All Saints Church

    Gainsborough – All Saints Church

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    This church looks a little out of proportion as the nave and chancel were entirely rebuilt between 1734 and 1744 when the previous structure was thought to be too dark and dingy, but the tower, which dated from the fifteenth century, was kept. After three years of construction, the new church opened on 16 September 1744 and it reminds me of how some of the slightly later churches in the United States, such as Old North Church in Boston, look.

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    The church is kept locked, but you can request the key from the cafe on-site, which I did. It’s well proportioned internally and I can imagine the excitement when it opened, with its two levels of seating and plenty of space. It’s certainly bright, which would have been in contrast to the previous building.

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    Looking back to the organ. The chandelier is a survivor from the previous church.

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    The pulpit, which was installed in 1869.

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    It’s spacious and would have been able to cater for several hundred worshippers. The National Churches Trust notes that:

    “The architect of the present building was Francis Smith of Warwick (1673-1738) who was greatly influenced by James Gibbs, the designer of St Martin in the Fields, Trafalgar Square.”

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    The height of the box pews were reduced by 12 inches in the 1860s.

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    Alan Stephenson, who served as the organist here for twenty years between 1913 and 1933. He was also the last organist to play at Coventry Cathedral before its organ was destroyed during the 14 November 1940 air raid.

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    The eighteenth century benefactors.

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    The memorial to Francis Elliott, who had served as the District Commissioner of Jubaland. He was the son of the Rev. Canon J. R. Elliott, M.A., of 1, Greenstone Place, Minster Yard, Lincoln and Francis died at the age of 35 on 2 February 1916. He’s buried at the Mogadishu African War Cemetery where there are 182 burials, but the Commonwealth War Graves Commission is currently unable to access the site. Unfortunately, the site has been desecrated and the graves destroyed and vandalised, there’s more at https://adeclewlow.com/2018/11/07/discovering-the-commonwealth-war-graves-cemetery-in-mogadishu/.

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    The entrance to the church.

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    What I assume is the entrance to the bell tower.

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    The tower, which I think is the most magnificent part of the structure. The authorities had to raise money in 1871 for the church’s protection as they were worried about bits of it falling down, which was considered sub-optimal. Also, a local cabinet maker, Mr. Knighting, had been walking across the church yard on a dark Sunday evening and a slab gave way and he nearly plummeted three feet down into a vault, located near to the base wall of the tower.

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    The graveyard, stripped of all its gravestones. There has been some controversy about this and the idiotic decision was enacted in 1961, stripping the area of its historic relevance and interest. They said at the time that it tidied the area up as it had become overgrown and gravestones were damaged. I mean, perhaps repair the gravestones and cut the grass? Anyway, it’s a memorial garden now.

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    Richard Rollett’s gravestone was saved as it was thought to be of interest as he was the master sail maker on HMS Resolution, which Captain James Cook captained.  The Captain Cook Society has more information on the life of Rollett at https://www.captaincooksociety.com/cooks-life/people/cooks-officers-and-crew-and-contemporaries/richard-rollett-1750-1824. Although that’s it, the rest of the stones and their memories have gone.

    It’s a wonderful example of eighteenth century church architecture, although there’s surprisingly little history here to see beyond that. They’ve knocked the old church down, the tower is inaccessible and the gravestones have been removed. Pevsner was very rude about Gainsborough, but he didn’t make any personal comment on his thoughts of the church’s architecture.

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Norwich Pedestrian With Stones

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Norwich Pedestrian With Stones

    And the next in my series of posts from the Norfolk Chronicle of 200 years ago this week is all about walking…..

    “Monday last, Townshend, the pedestrian, undertook to pick up with his mouth from the ground, in Finch’s gardens, 300 stones, placed one yard apart, and to deposit the same in a basket, in 11 successive hours, being a distance of 51 miles and 540 yards. In this undertaking, the pedestrian put his mouth to the ground 300 times, turned 600 times and stopped 600 times. The feat was performed 16 minutes within the time allowed. We understand that Townshend has undertaken to walk 40 miles backwards in 10 hours, on the same ground, on Monday next”.

    This is the time to say that I’ve walked 100 miles, I might not have mentioned that…. Actually, I’d rather repeat that than walk over 50 miles and pick up stones with my mouth. This is certainly a challenge that I’m not sure would take off today, even with the TikTok generation demanding new content styles. The walker in question is, I think, John Phipps Townshend, who wasn’t a local man as he was born in Lewes, but he did do these pedestrian events around the country. He referred to himself as the “The Champion of Living Pedestrians”, although I would humbly suggest that David Morgan of the LDWA would be a contender for that title today….. There are adverts from the time relating to Finch’s Ranelagh Gardens, so I’m guessing that this was the location of Townshend’s exertions, more of which at https://colonelunthanksnorwich.com/tag/ranelagh-gardens-norwich/.

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : 3,000 People Watch Fight in Poringland

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : 3,000 People Watch Fight in Poringland

    In the Norfolk Chronicle 200 years ago, there was an article about how 3,000 people turned out to watch a fight in Poringland. I suppose these were in the years before people could watch TV and go on-line, but it’s quite a fascinating article. It reads:

    “A pitched battle was fought near the Dove in Poringland between Fenn and Camplin, two Norwich men. It is supposed that not less than 3,000 persons assembled to watch this battle, which after 76 rounds, during which very little science was exhibited on part of Camplin, who fell after every first blow, terminated in favour of Fenn. A countryman and a dyer afterwards amused the spectators for some time by milling each other at a desperate rate till at length both discovered that they were making sport at rather too dear a price, and they mutually agreed to put an end to the fun.”

    Firstly, 76 rounds!!! And, relating to that, the Marquess of Queensberry Rules weren’t introduced until 1867, so it’s likely that this was bare knuckle boxing. I can’t say that I’m in awe of boxing, I’ve never quite understood physical violence, but each to their own I suppose. Despite attempts by Watney Mann brewery trying to close the pub in 1969, the Dove is still trading to this day.

    The boxer in question was John Camplin who was a Norwich blacksmith and city weaver, although I can’t work out with Fenn was. I also can’t find out when Camplin died, the only possible death with that name was someone who lived in London.

    I had to remind myself of the exact definition of what “milling” was, but the answer of ‘moving around in a confused mass’. Sounds reasonable as an after-fight fight…..

     

  • Carcassonne Day One : Ryanair Flight from London Stansted to Carcassonne

    Carcassonne Day One : Ryanair Flight from London Stansted to Carcassonne

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    Our dining treat whilst waiting for the flight was a £4.99 Boots meal deal and this was rather agreeable…. Anyway, I’m not sure that even my two loyal blog readers are much interested in that, but there we go. My blog, I can bore whoever I like.

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    We arrived at the gate before the previous flight had even left, this is the departure to Memmingen which it occurred to me that I haven’t visited before. Incidentally, don’t Ryanair have a lot of vans?

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    There we go, the departure board changed and we’re ready for the off.

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    We paid £15 each for this flight, so it’d be hard to complain too much, and indeed I didn’t find anything to complain about anyway. Not that I go looking for things to complain about I’d better add there. The efficiency from Ryanair is impressive, they’ve got passengers waiting to board the flight before the passengers from the inbound flight have left the aircraft and it certainly works for them in terms of the timings. It means that passengers have to stand and wait, which is sub-optimal for those who mobility issues, but I’ll give them their mark for their planning proficiency.

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    I had plenty of time to take photos of the aircraft. Liam was excited that the cockpit had a window that opened. It then emerged that he hadn’t flown overseas since we went to Malta the week before Covid caused so many problems. He needs to get out more as well it seems….

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    And a photo of the aforementioned window.

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    I’m too tight to pay for a specific seat on board, but I was surprised and delighted to get 10A, a window seat, without paying. Liam also got fortunate, he got 4A or something similar. After boarding, Liam messaged to say they had a planning issue with a customer with a disability, but they resolved it promptly, meaning that we departed on time. The crew were efficient and from I saw worked hard.

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    I was in prime position to spot if the engine fell out. I’m pleased to say that it didn’t.

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    The flight went quickly, not least because I fell asleep for most of it. I’ve visited Carcassonne before, but it was pre-blog (a bit like before cameras, it’s a dark age for me) and I also used my camera to take most of the photos and so Google hasn’t carefully logged them all for me. I do worry slightly when I forget so much about a past trip.

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    Liam disembarking…. It’s a building which feels more constructed for functionality rather than design appeal.

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    The aircraft was clean, well maintained and is registration EI-DWV, a 16 year old Boeing 737 which must be one of the older ones in their fleet. My record on recording these things is a bit patchy, but I don’t think I’ve been on this aircraft before.

    Back to the flight, this was an pretty impeccable offering from Ryanair at a price that was bordering on the ridiculous. I might have worked for BA in the past and my affinity is with them, but this Ryanair effort was well managed, efficient and respectful to the passengers. The opportunity that they give people to travel at affordable rates really is notable.

    As for the airport, other than for the odd situation with insufficient toilets in the arrival area (there’s more in departures) which caused some queues, it was all ordered and logical taking us under 20 minutes to get from the aircraft to the front of the terminal building. We weren’t delayed by not having EU passports, the border control desk was just dealing with this flight which I think was the last of the day, so everyone was in the same queue and it was fast moving. All in all, one of those flights where there’s nothing much of note to write, which is really for the best as it means that everyone went well.

  • Carcassonne Day One : Stansted Wetherspoons – The Windmill

    Carcassonne Day One : Stansted Wetherspoons – The Windmill

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    As there’s limited public seating in the airside part of Stansted, it wasn’t clear where else we would wait for our flight other than at the Wetherspoons at Stansted Airport, the Windmill. I’ve written about this venue before, but it’s well managed, the staff are engaging, it’s efficient and the environment is clean. It’s expensive, but that’s hardly going to surprise anyone. Liam and I had already enjoyed an extensive breakfast of a packet of crisps and a beer, so we didn’t need to have a fine dining meal. I’m sure (well, I’m not, I’m not always very observant) that they’ve extended the Windmill again, as we were seated in a wing that I hadn’t even noticed before. Incidentally, I remember the previous Wetherspoon outlet at Stansted which had around 18 tables, whereas they must now have over 100 tables across the two floors.

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    I like high seating and I was enjoying watching whether people coming in would go for high or low seating, and the majority went for higher seating. That’s how I spend my time now, with riveting polling such as that. I definitely need to get out more.

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    I went to the bar to order as they were playing a rather mean prank on customers and pretending on the app that they only had Greene King beers. I was momentarily excited to see that they had Theakstons Old Peculier, but the helpful staff member said that it had sold out within two hours and it had surprised them. I mean, I can hardly wonder why that beer sold out when the delights of Greene King IPA was on….. Anyway, they had Gold from Exmoor Ales and so I had half of that, it was a not unagreeable creamy, smooth and light beer. It also went well with the five decaff coffees that I had, such are the joys of unlimited coffee.

    There are other food and beverage options at the airport which aren’t really any more expensive than Wetherspoons, but their beer and coffee options are more extensive and better value. I might try the Camden Bar and Kitchen at some point which has a few craft beer options and although isn’t linked to the Camden Brewery, as it’s operated by SSP, it does sell their beers.

  • Carcassonne Day One : Leave Liquids and Devices in the Bag

    Carcassonne Day One : Leave Liquids and Devices in the Bag

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    I remembered that I had a full bottle of water before going through security and that led to the slight issue of where I was going to pour it. There didn’t seem to be any receptacles for liquids at the security area and so we had to traipse all the way back outside whilst I poured the water on the floor near to a bus and likely got noticed by six security cameras thinking that it was some nefarious attack on the building. I perhaps over-think these things if I’m being honest. It also made me wonder why I keep thinking I’ll drink all this water, but I’m not sure that anyone else (even my two loyal readers) would be overly engaged at that thought process.

    Anyway, this wasn’t the reason for this post and I’ve become distracted already. After entering the security line, we got directed off to a new extension to the terminal building and I was delighted to see that we were part of a trial. Often this isn’t good, but on this occasion it was the new technology that meant liquids and laptops could stay inside of the bag whilst it went through security. I wouldn’t say that this is life-changing, but it is certainly preferable.

    I’m not sure that they had it working quite right as twenty bags in a row went off to secondary screening and then that promptly blocked the entire security line. The staff remained polite and calm, other than one stressed guy who frankly looked panicked by the whole arrangement, but he was my favourite staff member as he was creating a bit of drama for passengers to watch. The owner of the twentieth bag seemed more stressed as the individual bag checks were going to take some time, they might have been less excited by the whole trial. As a positive, Liam and I sailed through, getting through by a whisker (around three hours) before the flight departed. Liam rejected my suggestion that this was cutting it fine, but he’s very reckless and is the only one of us who has actually missed a flight.