Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Norwich

Streets of Norwich – Watts Court

Part of my Streets of Norwich project…. [updated in September 2023]

Watts Court connects Chapelfield and Bethel Street, running parallel with Ninham’s Court. It’s likely named after John Langley Watts, a former Mayor of Norwich and whose memorial is still in situ inside All Saints’ Church, Westlegate.

The Chapelfield end of the court, which isn’t the most decadent entrance…. And I mention this because at the other end, on Bethel Street, there was until the Second World War a rather lovely original Tudor surround to the court, unfortunately, lost in 1942 in the Blitz. George Plunkett, reliable as ever, has a photo of this entrance that he took in 1935. There’s nothing there now, the buildings here have been removed and not replaced.

Photos of the court along its length, there are traces of history in the old wall, but unfortunately, most of interest has been lost.

One resident in 1849 was John Shenfield, who lived at number 42, but his business as a chair maker and lodging house keeper must have encountered problems as he was declared an insolvent debtor. This process meant that he had to attend the Guildhall to discuss his financial matters with the court. An insolvent debtor was different from a bankrupt, it wasn’t until 1861 that insolvent debtors could apply to become a bankrupt. It would have been a worrying moment for John Shenfield, as insolvent debtors could be kept indefinitely in a debtors’ prison.

September 22, 2023
Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 23 and Thai Bubble Tea

It’s week 23 of my eating at every food stall at Norwich Market, this expedition was to Thai Bubble Tea. They specialise in, it’s no surprise to note, bubble tea which first became rather on-trend in the UK during 2021 and 2022, with many shops popping up.

The menu board which seems clear, although I must admit that these drinks are somewhat alien to me. However, nothing ventured and nothing gained with there being plenty of choice. Indeed, one of the advantages with this arrangement is the variety that can be offered in a single drink, something which might encourage customers to return. As I understand, the drink has a tea base which is then mixed with milk and a little ice, with the popping balls then added.

The stall isn’t entirely logically laid out as food service is from the other side only despite menu boards being located on all sides. I didn’t realise this, although then another customer told me as she said she’d found out the hard way. James went around to order for us whilst I reserved the seating, but better signage might prevent the confusion. I’m not sure that James knew what he was doing either, but the team member was helpful and patient, guiding him through the ordering process.

I’m sure that there was almost some alchemy going on here, with so many ingredients around the place.

Not really knowing what I was doing, I ordered the banana milk tea, but I was asked what popping balls I wanted in it and so I went for blueberry without realising I had a choice.

James went for a waffle and the bit I tried seemed to taste fine, although I think he had hoped for something slightly more decadent and rich in flavour. What was evident at this stage was the long delays in service, with the sole team member having taken 19 minutes to serve this.

29 minutes after ordering, my drink arrived. I felt sorry for the sole team member as she seemed to be managing things efficiently and remembering who had ordered what. I wasn’t in any great hurry, but I think some sort of warning of service times might have been useful as this is by far the longest we’ve waited at any market stall.

But, onto the drink. It’s an odd experience as I’ve never had bubble tea before, but the little bubbles (which are more precisely known as tapioca balls) at the bottom go shooting up the straw and they then burst. In terms of adding texture and innovation to a drink I found them rather appealing and the rest of the drink was just a tasty banana milkshake. The drink cost £4.50 and they accepted card purchases.

James was worried about choking on the popping balls and then promptly nearly did as we walked back, adding to everyone’s amusement, or perhaps it would be better to say bemusement. I will say that as soon as there’s no liquid left, they do become more of a challenge to deal with. It’s fair to say that these drinks should be consumed carefully by children or irresponsible adults, preferably under the supervision of a responsible adult.

Overall, I enjoyed the experience but thought that that the service time was excessive for a market stall where no warning was given of the potential wait. I liked the engagement of the team member and she was working hard, although ideally there would have been someone to help here. The stall was clean throughout and everything seemed organised, with the atmosphere feeling inviting and warm. It’s not necessarily something that I’d rush to again, but I enjoyed the experience and it’s worth trying at least once.

September 19, 2023
Norwich – Squash at Wensum Sports Centre

Just under a year ago I accepted an invitation from a friend to play squash at Wensum Sports Centre. As an advocate of trying things once, unless it might involve my passing out, I accepted but was confident it wouldn’t be a very good idea. I’ve heard some people concerned that they’ll close given the developments at Wensum Lodge, but they’re separate operations and this one looks secure for some time to come yet.

There are two squash courts at the centre and this is the waiting area to them. Games cost £5 for 40 minutes and there’s a £12 annual membership fee, which all makes it rather reasonable. It’s located on King Street in Norwich, so it’s centrally located for those wanting a game and there’s a car park available for those who need to drive in.

Court two, which is the one I don’t like quite as much as it’s a little more overlooked on the gallery above. The reason that this post has taken so longer, after a flurry of activity from my two loyal readers demanding a squash update, is because I rarely play on this court and it’s taken me a while to get a photo. However, the courts can get heavily booked in the evening and sometimes there’s not much choice which is why I was on the court last week. I play in the day against one friend and there’s rarely anyone before or after, which makes it rather more relaxed.

For reasons I’ve never worked out, they have different colours in the two courts, this is the blue of court two.

And the red of my favourite court one. There’s rarely anyone looking over this court and I soon give them a passive aggressive stare so that they move on, as I’m not keen on being watched.

It looks oddly grubby from squash ball action in this photo compared to real life. As an aside, I always hate having to knock on the door to get the previous players off the court, so I tend to knock and then hide further down the corridor so they think it was someone else. I can be quite British sometimes…. I’m also sometimes a little alarmed at just how much noise some people make, with shouts, squeals, grunts and odd bangs, so I do wonder what is going on.

Anyway, I’m still not really very good at squash, but merrily try and play when I can drag people over. I’ve got a new squash friend (ooooohhh, new friend) from bar billiards who I think I’ll be able to beat, but I haven’t said that to them yet as I can’t imagine what might happen and I don’t want to be over-confident. I’m left with playing three people regularly, one I always beat, one who is equal in ability and another who smashes me around the court every week. The friend who initially took me I haven’t played in months, but I suspect they’d beat me despite their excellent attempts to train me up in the first place. I’ll find out one day 🙂

All told, I think this is all rather positive for mental and physical health, with the 40 minutes always going quickly. I’m conscious some people injure themselves playing squash, but I’m not moving about fast enough for that and it compresses a fair amount of exercise into a relatively short period which is much more efficient than a day of walking. The staff at the centre are friendly and helpful, especially when I was playing someone and they managed to head butt the wall and bleed which was highly sub-optimal as it wasted my game playing time.

The only downsides are that the courts can get a little warm and I may have mentioned occasionally that I don’t like things being too hot. And the other minor issue is that the whole thing is so popular that it can be hard to get a court in the evening at short notice, but that’s positive as they’re doing so well. They also have badminton courts and a gym at the centre, but I don’t involve myself with those.

It’s a case in point of trying new things, as I would never have thought I’d be interested in squash, but I’ve found it all quite therapeutic. It’s not expensive and they will lend people any equipment that they need for a small charge, the only thing that a player must have are shoes which won’t mark the court. All really rather lovely.

Right, I really must get back to the Liverpool write-up, but I’ve been somewhat distracted with London trips this weekend.

September 18, 2023
Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 22 and Lucy’s Chips

When Nathan and I started our challenge of eating at every food stall at Norwich market, James questioned what the point was as we should just declare Lucy’s chips the winner straight away. Nathan, quite correctly and soberly, thought it was probably better to visit all of the food stalls before making that judgement. Rolling on, it’s James that I’m now completing these visits with and it’s the first time that one of the two Lucy’s stalls has come up. I had high hopes, James and I have been visiting Lucy’s for some considerable time, albeit the other stall that they operate on the market.

The food items, which give the option of pies, mushy pies and sausages to the core food group that is chips. I hadn’t realised that they had partly branded this as a mushy peas stall and I was tempted to go for that, but then I saw the butcher’s sausage and remember how much I like that. So many choices….

I saw the Steak & Guinness pie that comes with gravy and chips for £5.50. I had to go with that, as gravy is the best thing to go with chips and the pie sounded suitably decadent. The service was friendly, even when I got muddled up with the ordering and tried to order a Steak & Kidney pie, which isn’t something they do. They accept cash and cards, with the whole process being efficient and timely even though I confused it somewhat along the way.

As for the food, this was on point and just what I consider market cuisine should be like. The pie is locally sourced, it had generous amounts of tender steak in and the sauce had a richness of taste to it. The gravy complemented the chips beautifully and this was a filling and suitably decadent lunch. For the money they’re charging, this is very competitive.

James went for the chips with curry sauce, he’s a bit more modern in his tastes than I am, I’ve decided I might make a move permanently to gravy with chips (I’ll have to break that gently to James, we’ve been doing curry sauce for decades and the change might shock him). James was surprised and delighted with his meal. Well, not necessarily surprised as he’s had their chips around 500 times, but definitely delighted.

It’s not a great photo unfortunately, but there are some doughnuts for dessert as well, but I felt I had eaten enough already at this point. We were able to eat at the stall as they had a ledge to lean on, with everything clean and organised. The standards were as we hoped for and this is definitely a contender in being the best stall at Norwich Market. All really rather lovely and it’ll come as no surprise that I recommend this delightful food stall.

September 13, 2023
Norwich – King’s Arms (Two Julians)

Another day, another study tour and Julian and I were continuing our visits to pubs in Norwich. This is the King’s Arms on Hall Road and they’ve made a substantial effort with their floral arrangements. I know this pub reasonably well, a few of us used to visit every Friday night as they let you take your own food in from the nearby takeaways. Indeed, not only that, but they also provide sauces and plates for free to make the whole thing even more comfortable.

The pub is listed in the Good Beer Guide and it’s been serving alcohol to the population of Norwich since the 1830s. The pub was free trade for a few years when Greene King sold it in 1998, but it is now a Batemans pub. They’ve got twelve different ales available which are all clearly displayed above the bar, several of them from Batemans. To give a little snapshot of what to expect, the pub states on their web-site:

“There is no music, machines, pool or darts but this adds to, rather than detracts from, the great atmosphere – the King’s Arms is often described by regulars and newcomers alike as ‘a proper local’.”

I incidentally approve of that arrangement, I can’t be doing raucous.

I went for the XXXB from Batemans and it tasted as expected, but it wasn’t quite as cold as I would ideally have liked. Although, it was insanely hot on the day of our visit and both Julian and I turned up separately at the pub rather unsteady with all the heat. Roy was also there showing off his green finger, but enough said about that the better.

There’s a traditional and cosy feel to the pub and everything was clean and organised. The service was warm and friendly, with the pub taking cards and cash. The pub is positively reviewed on-line, but I feel for the venue as they’ve picked up some negative reviews from pubs with similar names. I’ve just tried to get a couple of the negatives ones that are evidently about somewhere else removed from Google in a bid to assist the pub, although I can’t imagine I’ll be successful. They have angered one local though who posted what appears to be piffle, with the pub commenting:

“Dont put rubbish reviews on just because you are barred. It only shows you up, not us.”

I like a pub that stands up for itself.

As another one of my random meanderings into irrelevance, I like these hand dryers that let you divert the air to a different direction. When it’s very hot, which I may have mentioned it was during our visit, the cool blow of air was actually quite useful. These are much better than those Dyson hand dryers where there’s a pool of odd smelling moisture at the base of them. Anyway, I digress as this series of posts is meant to be about pubs and not hand dryers, fascinating as that subject is and there’s probably already a niche web-site somewhere about them.

Looking towards the front of the pub, there’s a conservatory area off to the right.

Namely this one, with a garden area out the back as well.

Overall, this felt like a reliable and competently run pub and the welcome was warm and friendly. There were plenty of beers to choose from and the environment was inviting and comfortable. There were no negative issues that we encountered and it’s a useful destination to bring a takeaway meal into whilst enjoying a drink, knowing that there are cutlery and plates on hand.

September 8, 2023
Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 21 and Tasty House

It’s week 21 of my visiting every food stall on Norwich market and today’s expedition was to Tasty House (the more formal name is Tasty House South East Asian Street Food Emporium) which specialises in Asian street food including Thai and Chinese.

The menu is relatively extensive with some daily changing specials. There are some traditional dishes, vegan & vegetarian options and sides such as spring rolls. The menu and the pricing should be visible by zooming into the above image on Flickr.

I know it’s not something that I mention often as I don’t like to moan or complain, but it’s too hot in Norwich at the moment. So given that, I went for a Dr. Pepper as a refreshing cool drink. Oh, and the food, I went for the Chicken Green Curry with sticky rice. The regular size which I went for was £7, although there was a large for £8.50, with options also of Jasmine rice or noodles.

The kitchen area and the food was served promptly, but I had a minute or two to wait as James was allowing other people to be served before him in the queue. He’s very much a gentleman…. The stall usually takes card payments, but their machine wasn’t working today and so it was fortunate that we both had cash available.

I started to eat whilst standing at the counter, but a helpful team member mentioned there was a seating area at the end of the stall they run opposite. That stall specialises in serving Asian ingredients, with the back of some of the shelves visible in the above photo.

But, back to the food, which I thought was a sufficiently generous portion for the money. I liked the food, with the chicken being tender and moist whilst also still full of flavour. The sauce had a depth of taste with some heat to it, which I thought was appropriate for a green curry. The rice was sticky as expected, with everything being at the appropriate hot temperature. I felt full at the end of this meal, which isn’t always the case by any means, with the standard of the food being higher than I had expected. There was a small salad included, which wasn’t offensive (well, not more than a salad usually is) but it wilted rather quickly on the warm rice. Also, although the curry sauce was a little thin, that meant that it soaked up the rice well giving extra flavour to the whole arrangement.

James went for the crispy chicken which is deep fried in batter with a spicy sauce. Perhaps not ideally moist, James likes the crispiness to the chicken and the flavour of the spicy sauce. It likely wasn’t as spicy as he wanted, since he could do the One Chip Challenge about eight times over, but he was content and sufficiently surprised and delighted.

Back to the service, this was pro-active, friendly and confident. I stood in the wrong place to order, but that was because I’m an idiot rather than because it wasn’t clear. The team members were helpful and they mentioned the seating area, also noticing that we needed to throw the litter away at the end and they came to James’s aid. I felt welcome throughout and the surroundings were clean and comfortable. The food was excellent, they had cold Dr. Pepper and this is a stall that I’d merrily visit again and recommend because it felt reassuringly competent.

September 7, 2023
Streets of Norwich – Damocles Court

Part of my Streets of Norwich project…. [updated in September 2023]

Firstly, and annoyingly, I have no idea why this street has this name. Answers on a postcard…. Unless it’s a recent dig at the authorities, since Damocles is about the constant threat which is faced by those who hold positions on power.

The court isn’t named on the above map, but it’s the one in the centre, which leads off Pottergate. Indeed, it doesn’t seem to have been named anywhere before 1980, so it sounds like a modern name. The court did once lead into Wellington Square, which has long since been demolished.

Looking down the courtyard, number 100 Pottergate is on the right.

In June 1980, the Illustrated London News had an article about housing in Norwich City Centre, noting:

“Damocles Court is a mixture of upgraded old houses and new buildings in vernacular style on decaying backlands”.

I’m not sure that I’ve seen Norwich city centre defined as “decaying backlands”…..

So, for the moment, this one is puzzling and I shall wait patiently for someone to solve this little mystery.

September 7, 2023
Norwich – Rosary Cemetery (John Burrows)

[This is a repost with minor amendments, I’ve tried again to find out more about John Burrows but have had no breakthroughs of interest]

This grave at the Rosary Cemetery in Norwich caught my eye because of the use of Roman numerals, which require some thought (well, they do to me) to resolve…. It’s the grave of John Burrows who died on 16 January 1837 aged 78 years old. There are also two other names listed on the other side, also with Roman numerals used, which are Paul Thomas Edwards and Judith Edwards, but more of them anon.

The first burial in the Rosary Cemetery was in 1821, but as the established church didn’t really engage with this non-denominational site there weren’t that many more burials over the next decade. This means that John’s birth of 1758 is probably one of the earliest in the cemetery.

John was born on 30 November 1758 and was baptised on 3 December 1758 at St. James with Pockthorpe Church in Norwich, which is now better known as Norwich Puppet Theatre, and he was the son of John and Mary Burrows.

John was married on 22 October 1780 to Judith Yeomans of Trowse in the same church as he was baptised. They had their first child, again called John, who was born on 4 November 1785 and was baptised two days later, again at St. James with Pockthorpe Church. They had another child, Judith, who was born on 15 May 1791 and baptised seven days later, with no prizes for guessing at which church….

Judith, the wife of John, died at the age of just 42 on 24 June 1804 and was buried at St. James with Pockthorpe Church, yet another event for the family at this particular church.

John died on 16 January and was buried in the dissenters area of the cemetery on 22 January 1837. This is interesting, as something has happened that has made John not want to be buried at the church in which he was baptised, he was married, where his children were baptised and where his wife was buried. Instead, he’s deliberately been buried and listed as a dissenter.

I mentioned at the beginning that on the other side of the grave were the names Paul Thomas Edwards and Judith Edwards, and Judith was John’s daughter and Paul was his son-in-law. They married in January 1833, with John being listed as now living in Thorpe Hamlet and Thomas was working as a lime burner. And more about them in another post.

But, I can’t yet resolve what happened to John between the death of his wife in 1804 and his own burial in 1837, a period where his religious beliefs either changed or he felt able to freely express them. That meant that he ended up being buried along in the Rosary Cemetery until his daughter and son-in-law were buried with him a few decades later. I’m sure that there’s a fascinating story here, but I’m less sure that the documentary record exists to tell me what it is.

September 5, 2023
200 Years Ago : Dangers of Surry Street and St. Stephen’s

Reported in the Norfolk Chronicle 200 years ago today, there was the story of how a robbery had taken place near the Crown Inn on St. Stephen’s (long gone, it closed in the 1830s). Of more interest perhaps is how the newspaper felt obliged to warn the local denizens of just how dangerous this part of the city had become. They wrote warning of murder:

“In noticing this circumstance, we feel it incumbent on us to animadvert [isn’t this a wonderful word? It means to speak out against] upon the danger to which passengers and property are exposed in St. Stephen’s and Surry Street, from those two principal thoroughfares being at this time of the year, in point of fact, neither watched not lighted. The extreme darkness of Saturday was not relieved by the glimmering of a single lamp, and as for the watchman, not only robbery, but murder, might have been committed with impunity, for any thing that the nocturnal guardian of the district in question, was at hand to do.”

And for anyone who believes Norwich was safer in the past, the newspaper stories from 200 years ago suggest a city where crime was common and residents were in fear. Surry Street is actually what is now called All Saints Green, whereas Surrey Street connects All Saints Green to St. Stephen’s.

This map is from the 1850s, but All Saints Green (Surry Street) is the larger area below the church, whereas St. Stephen’s is the road shooting off to the left.

September 5, 2023
Two Julians – Norwich Index

It’s our intention to visit every pub in Norfolk and Suffolk, such as the commitment that Julian S and I have to this project. Our back catalogue is available at http://www.norfolksuffolk.org.uk/ for your delight and perusal. Or something like that anyway….

Here’s a list of the Norwich pubs we’ve visited:

Adam and Eve [January 2025]

Alexandra Tavern [August 2023]

Belle Vue [August 2023]

Berstrete Gates [February 2025]

Chambers Cocktail Company [March 2025]

Champion [February 2025]

Cinema City Bar [March 2025]

Coach and Horses – Thorpe Road [March 2025]

Coach and Horses – Union Street [February 2025]

Coachmakers Arms [February 2025]

Compleat Angler [March 2025]

Fat Cat [August 2023]

Fat Cat and Canary [March 2025]

Freemason’s Arms [September 2023]

Glass House [March 2025]

Hop Rocket [February 2025]

Jubilee [March 2025]

King William IV [March 2025]

King’s Arms [September 2023]

Nelson – Closed [August 2023]

Robin Hood [January 2025]

Rose [January 2025]

Rumsey Wells [March 2025]

St. Andrew’s Brewhouse [March 2025]

Strangers Tavern [March 2025]

West End Retreat [August 2023]

York [February 2025]

September 5, 2023