Category: Birmingham

This is the former Greyhound bus terminal in Birmingham, no longer in operation as in 2017 they moved to the intermodal facility by the railway station. It was recently taken over by a developer who purchased it for just over $2 million and will be letting the building out for office space but he’s also making efforts to maintain the heritage. I’ve seen photos of this building before from when it was in use as the city’s main coach station, not least because of its important part in the civil rights story of Birmingham and I think it’s the first old style Greyhound construction that I’ve seen.

Following delays caused by the Second World War, the new bus terminal was finally constructed in 1950 and its an iconic structure which is very much part of the Greyhound design and I’m pleased that its look has been kept as part of the new development. There are some photos of the inside of the building taken by the local newspaper which show what is being kept, as well as some of the old Greyhound memorabilia that was still inside. They’ve even converted two old Greyhound buses and parked them out the back to use as office space and this would be a marvellous building to rent given its size and status.

But it’s not just the structure of the building that is important here, it’s the story of what happened here in 1961 which makes it so notable. The Freedom Riders, which had black and white passengers, set off from Washington DC to New Orleans on Greyhound and Trailways services to try and use segregated facilities as a protest against this divisive policy. Unfortunately, as expected, there was trouble in Alabama. The Greyhound bus was torched at Anniston and the Trailways bus was attacked when it reached at their bus terminal in Birmingham. Bull Connor, the racist so-called city Public Safety Commissioner, ordered the police to do nothing for 15 minutes.

This Greyhound bus station became part of the story as it was becoming apparent that the fear and terror directed towards drivers and the coaches meant that the Freedom Riders might not be able to continue. Volunteers came to the Greyhound station to the fury of Bull Connor who ordered police to arrest them. One of the 13 Freedom Riders on this trip was John Lewis, who died in 2020 after a long career in politics, and was one of the most important figures in the civil rights movement who was arrested at this Greyhound station. Lewis later said about the trip:

“We were determined not to let any act of violence keep us from our goal. We knew our lives could be threatened, but we had made up our minds not to turn back”.

The problems continued in Montgomery, Alabama and the former Greyhound bus station there is now the Freedom Rides Museum. Later that year, in November 1961, following immense political pressure there was confirmation from the courts that there shouldn’t be segregation on facilities provided at inter-state coach services. The Freedom Riders had been essential in forcing the southern states to comply, although it’s evident they did so with minimal willingness in very many cases. Their bravery is immensely impressive, they weren’t just faced with the KKK and their supporters attacking them, they also had to defend themselves whilst the police stood by.

I was standing outside the building on a warm day in October with the sun shining and everything feeling peaceful. The former bus terminal is located opposite City Hall and it’s hard to imagine the sheer terror that must have been felt by the Freedom Riders and to truly understand the ridiculous indignation of Bull Connor. But they were certainly socially different times and many in Alabama were fighting hard to try and maintain segregation, annoyed that national politicians were telling them to act against what they believed in. Connor was also supported by John M. Patterson, the Governor of Alabama, who was one of the leading proponents of segregation, although moved away from it later on in his political career and who only died in 2021. Yet against all that, the Freedom Riders still persisted, so very brave.

This was one of the disappointing elements of my trip and it’s the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute. I very much enjoyed visiting the National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis a few years ago and its tone, which seemed pitch perfect to me, part of my pilgrimage to the places that were key to the life of Martin Luther King. A few days before I was planning to visit this museum I checked their web-site to ensure that they didn’t need prior booking, but to my disappointment they had decided to ban bags and told visitors to leave them in their car.

I’m not entirely sure that any museum should just be assuming that everyone has a car, that’s really unfortunate language to be using that I’ve never seen before in any of the hundreds of web-sites I’ve checked before visiting other locations. But, that wasn’t really my concern and I have no desire to be critical of them, but the problem was that the museum weren’t accepting bags and I had one. Not a huge bag, but larger than what was allowed. There was nowhere obvious for me to leave my bag, the Amtrak station didn’t open until two hours before the train and I don’t think they had lockers anyway, I didn’t have a car and I didn’t have a hotel room in the city. Slightly disappointed, I just didn’t go, despite it being one of the museums I was deliberately planning to go to on my trip.

I’ll add though, in fairness to the museum, their web-site looks a little dated and I think their policy was perhaps updated quite quickly during the pandemic, so some of the text was likely making reference to that. I don’t know what their funding situation is like, but I imagine a new web-site project would be expensive and it’s difficult to ensure that everything is up-to-date in the way that it should be.

The story isn’t bad though, I instead went to the Birmingham Museum of Art which is a short walk away and I merrily spent three hours there. They do have a few lockers near to the entrance of that museum, but my bag didn’t fit. Instead, the lovely security officer said she’d look after it under her desk, which she did. When I was leaving I mentioned about the Civil Rights Institute bag policy and she so very kindly said I could leave my bag there at their museum whilst going to visit if I’d like to. That was a lovely gesture, but unfortunately I by then had other things to see and then a train to catch back to New Jersey.

I did contact the Civil Rights Institute and they changed their web-site, although didn’t reply to me, not that this mattered. It now transpires that they do have lockers and perhaps I should have just risked going anyway. A shame, but I had a lovely museum visit elsewhere and have been able to see some of the displays via photos that visitors have uploaded and I think based on that I’d still very much recommend a photo to the Civil Rights Institute as there look like there are plenty of interesting and thoughtful displays and exhibits. It’s also of course a cause that needs support and I think the museum is behind the wonderful civil rights marker boards placed around the city centre.

But that explains to anyone interested (which, I’ll add as I usually do, is likely no-one) why there will now be a series of posts about numerous different artworks. I did though visit the square outside of the museum, which is where the top photo is of, and thanks to the civil rights history markers laid out by the museum learned plenty about what happened and where in the city. More posts on that will follow in due course as I intend to complain quite a lot about the appalling treatment of the black population in the city, which is really the most important point here.

I had very high hopes of the Little London British themed restaurant which was located just opposite the hotel that I was staying in. It’s got impeccable reviews and had a tempting and innovative menu, with a clear community spirit going on. I got there and it was shut, but I noticed when I got back to the hotel that they had posted on their Facebook page:

“Hello all. We appreciate all of the love and support you have shown us through out the last few weeks. You have truly shown the power of community. However, we cannot in good conscience continue to delivering the level of service we have as we are so understaffed.”

I thought that took the theming of a British restaurant a bit too far but I appreciated they were trying to recreate the staffing problem faced back in the UK. Unfortunately, soon after this message there was another where they announced that they had permanently closed and they never re-opened. I was genuinely disappointed for them when I heard about their story, they clearly tried very hard and it was a shame that I didn’t get chance to dine there as I suspect that the welcome would have been genuine and charming. I’m not sure how they got the double decker bus out here or whether they’re keeping it, but what a lovely touch.

Instead, I went to Hardee’s located nearby, which was easier said than done as it involved crossing a major road where they hadn’t bothered to put anywhere for pedestrians to cross. Whilst standing there being moderately angry, I pondered momentarily writing to the transport commissioner in Birmingham about the omission, but having seen the state of other parts of the city I didn’t imagine my missive would have been greeted with great excitement. Back to the fast food though, I was the only person dining in and my chicken burger was freshly made and surprisingly good. After about eight litres of refillable sodas I made my way back to the hotel, slightly disappointed that what I had anticipated being a very positive British dining experience didn’t work out.

I have more to write about Birmingham, Alabama, but my first impressions weren’t that positive. I think it is absolutely possible to get a sense for any location by judging the atmosphere, how people look at you and just how it feels. Staying safe when travelling relies on some awareness of the environment, so whether rightly or wrongly I do tend to think about my surroundings a fair amount. I left the Amtrak station and I did get the impression that people were looking at me. I’m not normally sensitive to that, I’ve visited 35 or so states in the US and the last time I felt like that was in Baltimore when I accidentally walked to the zoo through an area which wasn’t entirely decadent. I then went to a shopping centre on the way back and felt that the place was completely on edge, very much not a city at ease with itself. That centre was the Mondawmin Mall and a few months later it is where the Baltimore riots kicked off, one of the worst cases of disorder in the United States in recent years.

Anyway, back to Birmingham, but having noted that I don’t usually feel ill at ease as I think that’s relevant. The sheer number of security guards was another sign, they were guarding the Amtrak station, they were guarding the Greyhound bus counters and then had a ring around the city’s bus station. The problem seems to be the number of homeless, not that they’re necessarily concerned about anyone being attacked, but because they don’t want homeless people using these facilities. I have further stories about this from later on during my time in Birmingham, but I didn’t feel entirely comfortable even walking the 100 metres to that bus station.

There’s one photo here as that’s the only one I took, simply as I needed to get the information on the modern display boards to remember which bus I needed and where it was leaving from. There were power points at the seats, but I didn’t feel confident enough to get any devices out to charge them and I just waited not too far from a security guard. I was getting the 14 bus and although it was showing as operating 15 minutes late, I was pleased to see that delay decrease to the point where it turned up on time. There was an eerie quiet in the bus station itself, I never like such an obvious quiet when there are plenty of people around as that’s just not what public spaces are about. It felt like the moments before an exam, where there’s an element of nervousness. One of the security guards was outside shouting at a homeless person who was trying to come in, but at least that broke the silence. There’s some perpetual tension going on in this location as if an invisible force just keeps enough trouble going to ensure that there’s no moment for relaxation, maybe the staff now thrive on that.

I felt oddly guilty sitting there trying to think of a way of passing twenty minutes without looking at my phone. The city had evidently paid out a fair amount of money for this bus station, it was staffed with ticket agents, security guards and it had modern technology and plenty of charging facilities. There had been investment here and the city authorities seemed as though they genuinely wanted people to be comfortable. There are numerous locations in the United States where much less effort has been put into the main bus station facility, so I thought that I should perhaps be grateful. Then a fight started outside, nothing major and it seemed to be two people who knew each other. The security guard went outside to look at it, but he seemed to decide that it didn’t impact on his bus station and so he came back inside. A staff member was mopping the floor, one of the most pleasant cleaners you could hope to meet, she was merrily chatting with passengers as she washed down the already clean floor, she didn’t mind when most of them didn’t respond. I got the impression she had decided to improve the general ambience, but had long since given up with whether the local characters wanted to engage back. I liked her, she lifted that bus station and I noted just how clean everything already was, she was proud of working there.

As for whether I was justified at feeling ill at ease, I too often just keep noting how friendly, welcoming and exciting so many places are to visit. When I’m in Poland, or indeed countries such as Ukraine, Latvia, Lithuania and many others, that’s something I write with alarming regularity. In many states of the US that is also the case, but there’s a clear poverty issue in Birmingham and I only realised later on just how this city has fallen into a tailspin of decline and an almost inexplicable sustained population fall as residents are fleeing to other locations. Birmingham was the 36th largest city in the United State in 1960, it’s now 138th and continuing its decline. And so I feel justified, and indeed I’ll return to this on the blog, because if the residents are leaving en masse then something has gone badly wrong.

Any local who happens to read this will think that I’ve lost the plot and entirely exaggerated that is a perfectly normal bus station. Like a child scared of ghosts, they get skittish and terrified when anything slightly odd happens, however explainable away that incident is. But then again, many of the reviews on-line of this bus station are full of negativity about the staff, the environment and the lack of caring. As a slight spoiler, I have to note here that this blog is most certainly not sponsored by the Birmingham Tourist Authorities. Strangely though, I didn’t entirely dislike it, I wanted to leave to get to my hotel as it was by now soon about to get dark, but I wanted to come back and try to understand why this felt unwelcoming. There must always be a reason and I wanted to find out what it was.

This is a powerful sculpture located at Kelly Ingram Park (named after the first US sailor killed during the First World War) and was designed by Ronald McDowell. What is represents though is quite complex and has been featured in many news stories over recent decades.

Not readable here, but written on the sculpture is:

“This sculpture is dedicated to the foot soldiers of the Birmingham Civil Rights movement. With gallantry, courage, and great bravery they faced the violence of attack dogs, high powered water hoses and bombings. They were the fodder in the advance against injustice”.

The back story of this sculpture can be read here as this sculpture is based on photos taken at the time which I think are still in copyright so I’d better not put them here. Bull Connor, the city’s Public Safety Commissioner, ordered the police to use dogs during civil rights protests in Birmingham and the photos taken started to change perceptions in the rest of the United States about what was happening in states such as Alabama.

The story is more complex than this as explained here, where by chance the 15 year old person immortalised in the sculpture, Walter Gadsden, wasn’t really part of the civil rights movement and was just a bystander. But that doesn’t make much difference to the telling of the story as a whole, Connor’s treatment of protesters was appalling and he would merrily authorise the use of water hoses, dogs or threat of arrest to stop the civil rights movement.

Much was made of the photos though at the time, they were covered in newspapers and politicians comments on them. The policeman Dick Middleton and his dog Leo became part of the story, although accounts of this particular officer (and there were many from journalists) is that he was a polite and respectful member of the service, not something that could be said about some of his colleagues who were very much supportive of Connor’s tactics and political thoughts on maintaining segregation. Middleton died in 2015, he had remained in the area and after 30 years in the police service he had become involved in owning the Klingler’s European Bakery in the city.