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  • 2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Colonial Courthouse at Williamsburg)

    2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Colonial Courthouse at Williamsburg)

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    The courthouse in Williamsburg was constructed, although the designer is unknown, between 1770 and 1771, originally holding two separate courts, the James City County Court for hearing cases in the wider region and the Hustings Court for matters which happened in Williamsburg itself. The building is located in the middle of old Williamsburg, a deliberate decision to note that it was at the centre of the community.

    Benjamin Waller read aloud the Declaration of Independence at this courthouse on 25 July 1776, just a few weeks after it was declared in Philadelphia, so I can imagine there was some gossip which continued on at the Charlton’s coffeehouse about that little arrangement. Following the Battle of Williamsburg in 1862, which was part of the American Civil War, the building was used as a hospital for Confederate troops, which is also when all the wood from the doors and windows mysteriously went missing.

    The building is mostly original, but the original furnishings were stripped out in the nineteenth century (some recent replicas have been installed instead) and a fire damaged the entire structure in 1911. What was left of the building was taken over as part of the Colonial Williamsburg project in 1928 and the columns added to the frontage in 1911 (it’s not clear whether the designer ever wanted them, although it looks like they might have done) were removed. For those who had argued for decades about the columns, they would have been most disappointed that they lasted for just 17 years.

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    And some of the punishment devices on display next to the courthouse.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Precarious Beer Project at Williamsburg)

    2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Precarious Beer Project at Williamsburg)

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    After a morning of walking around the historic buildings of Colonial Williamsburg, I thought I had better see what the craft beer options were like in the town. Given that this was such a touristy location I wasn’t entirely optimistic, but the Precarious Beer Project was centrally located in the town, was Untappd verified and was also well reviewed.

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    I must change that photo of me on Untappd. But, anyway, here’s the beer list, although I’ve also taken a photo of the printed menu which is further down this post. Credit to them for being listed on Untappd incidentally, it makes it much easier to look at the available beers in advance.

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    I went with three different beers to start off proceedings and they were all of a very decent standard, despite being across a number of beer styles. The Hip Hop’d Blues and the Oat Like a Butterfly Sting Like a Bee were my favourites, the latter was a oatmeal stout which was rich in taste and had an additional flavour of honey.

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    There’s a central bar area and then numerous food outlets around it including burgers and tacos, which you can purchase from and then eat at the bar itself or at the plentiful nearby bench seating. I went for tacos, but more of those in the next post.

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    Jumping ahead to the next day, as I returned to this bar before I got my train, I had another couple of beers and they were excellent again, the very agreeable Knuck if You Buckwheat brown ale and the Kung Fu Kittens NEIPA. As a brewery, I was impressed that they were producing such a wide range of different beer styles whilst also maintaining the quality. Some of the beers they were brewing seemed to be quite innovative, especially brown ale which isn’t widespread across this part of the United States.

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    There was a minor incident with this, as I needed to visit the facilities and I asked the barman to put my two drinks behind the bar. He willingly did that, but when I returned he couldn’t find them and he guessed his colleague had thrown them away. I mentioned I had nearly finished the brown ale, but he repoured both drinks back up to their original level so that was handy.

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    I mentioned that the reviews were very positive, although this one seemed very angry:

    “The establishment itself has a great feel for downtown Williamsburg however the beer selection is very narrow minded, if you like hazy IPA’s your in the place but nothing else is worth while.”

    I’m slightly puzzled how anyone took a look at their beer menu and thought that, unless the brewery had recently decided for one day to just stock IPAs…. But, above is the beer menu from the day that I visited. And another student was angry they had been carded (IDed)….

    “Bad service, targeted specific groups for carding. Would not go with friends again!”

    I liked the brewery’s response.

    “Martha, we are legally obligated to card any patron under the age of 35. If you were with a younger group, and/or appeared under the age of 35 than our team did their jobs. We are sorry if this legal obligation created a poor experience for you. Calling this “discrimination” however is completely and totally ridiculous. Might we suggest that you lobby for a change to the legal statute mandated by the Virginia ABC.

    In addition, it is our assumption you were a part of the group we asked to leave, as a result of having under aged patrons who refused to show ID, and we’re then discovered attempting to pass beer between each other. Your entire group was asked to leave, as this is company policy for any groups discovered to have under aged drinkers attempting to consume alcohol. Lastly, our assumption is the school of William and Mary, with whom your affiliated with would frown on students under the age of 21, consuming alcohol illegally.

    There are plenty of other local college hangouts that may turn an eye to this type of thing, but fortunately we are not one of them.”

    Sounds reasonable and I like a robust response from a venue. But, once again, I’ve digressed and so I’ll conclude that I very much liked this bar. As noted, I visited twice because I felt the beer options were so strong and the service was friendly and efficient on both occasions. Despite being in such a touristy location, I think they’ve delivered an authentic package of decent beer, clean and modern surroundings with friendly and engaged staff.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Electric Circus Taco Bar in Williamsburg)

    2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Electric Circus Taco Bar in Williamsburg)

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    This taco bar is one of the food outlets located at the Precarious Beer Project in Colonial Williamsburg. You order the tacos at their outlet and they give you a buzzer to collect the food when it’s ready, meaning that you can then sit anywhere in the venue. I choose to go back to sit at the bar with my beers, but I can’t imagine that coming as much of a surprise. This whole food and drink arrangement feels on-trend without being formulaic, which is a difficult balance to get sometimes, but the staff were welcoming and it all felt informal and relaxed.

    I went with the Circus Shrimp and the Spicy Chorizo tacos and they well presented and that lime created a handy zesty finish, with the ingredients being of a high quality. Lots of flavour from the shrimp and chorizo, although they were a little small and something larger would have been even more delicious. I adore jalapenos and am always pleased when they’re generously served to add some extra heat and texture to the food. Refreshing though, they went well with my IPA, despite being slightly awkward to eat without making a mess.

  • Streets of Norwich – Willow Lane

    Streets of Norwich – Willow Lane

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project…. [updated in October 2023]

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    Willow Lane connects St. Giles Street to Cow Hill, a looping road that is shaped by the St. Giles’s Church site. The lane takes its name from the willow trees which were once on the south side in the seventeenth century, with the Mayor of Norwich being responsible for checking them. Despite this being a relatively short road, there are nine listed buildings along it.

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    This is the St. Giles Street end of the road, the building on the right (which is 53 St. Giles Street) is the side of Ellis Second Hand Books and then the building behind is 1 Willow Lane, an early nineteenth-century residential property which was sold in 2019.

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    The next building along is a former Catholic church which was built in 1827 by JT Patience, which was then turned into a Catholic school. The building is now used by Rogers & Norton solicitors and George Plunkett has a photo of when the building was still used as a school.

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    Looking back towards St. Giles Street, the former church is on the left behind the fence.

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    What looks like a Georgian building on the left, the entrance to the former church site is now on the right of this photo.

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    The series of buildings on the left-hand side are early nineteenth-century residential buildings, which remain as houses. The white building on the right-hand side is number 9, also known as Willow Lane House, an eighteenth-century residential building that has been converted into offices.

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    The brick building on the right is 15 Willow Lane and is a seventeenth-century residential building that was extended in the nineteenth century. It was also the home of Francis Blomefield (1705-1752) who was a local historian who wrote the ‘History of Norfolk’. The building was used as a boarding house in 1939, so the register gives an interesting look at its occupants. There were:

    Mary and Stanley Page (boarding house owner and husband was a hairdresser)

    Barbara Dash (assistant in grocer’s shop)

    Alice Nicholls (billiards room attendant)

    Sarah Barber (private nurse)

    Jacob Black (steel bender)

    Mary Black (unpaid domestic duties, wife of Jacob)

    Elizabeth Ledleve (boot and shoe branding).

    There were also two other people on the register where the record remains closed, so it’s possible that they’re still alive.

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    Looking back the street from the Cow Hill end. The street feels very Georgian and unchanged, and there’s also the hidden property that was once the George Borrow museum, where the author lived between 1816 and 1824. However, this now has more in common with Cow Hill, so more on that in another post.

    Norfolk Pubs also suggests that there might have been a licensed premises called the Cellar House located along the street in the early nineteenth century.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – Agnes Lee)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – Agnes Lee)

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    I can’t offer anything on this other to note that Agnes Lee lived between 12 May 1887 and 22 November 1890, dying at three years of age and then being buried at Hollywood Cemetery. The average life expectancy, from birth, in the United States in 1860 was just 35, although by the time that Agnes was born it had increased to 41, but that’s still a lot of deaths in early life.

    So why is there a blog post about this? Well, primarily as I liked that little sheep (I assume that’s what it is) on the grave, it’s quite an emotive image and it made me wonder what the family must have thought when standing there in 1890. And, also, because time was so incredibly cheap at that point in time of Richmond’s heritage, not least meaning that information about Agnes seems to have been lost to history.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – Jefferson F Davis)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – Jefferson F Davis)

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    The history of the world would have been very different (and I doubt in a positive way) if this man, Jefferson F Davis, had been able to lead the Confederate States to a victory in the American Civil War. Davis was the only President of the Confederate States as it was a short-lived office, but for the years he was in power (1861-1865) he was a very important political figure around the world. By most accounts, he wasn’t the most competent of leaders and his time in office was very troubled to say the least. His support for slavery has also meant that his historical reputation has gone from one of respect at the time to one more of contempt, although as with everything, views differ.

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    As this tablet suggests, Davis had previously been the Secretary of War between 1853 and 1857. Davis had close links to Richmond, it’s where he lived and was inaugurated as President and hence that was why he was buried here at Hollywood Cemetery, although other US cities put in claims as well. He had died and was buried in New Orleans, but his remains were quickly exhumed and transport to Richmond.

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    I’d like to think that his statue is safe in this graveyard, but images of Davis have been attacked throughout the United States over recent years. Davis was arrested after the end of the Civil War and many people tried to unite the nation that had nearly split in two, with Davis not being adverse to helping with that. Certainly a controversial figure even today, it was certainly interesting to see where he was buried.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – President John Tyler)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – President John Tyler)

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    As I mentioned earlier, there are two Presidents buried at Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, John Tyler and James Monroe.

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    The grave of John Tyler (1790-1862), who was President between 1841 and 1845, and there is something quite thrilling about seeing where a former leader of the United States is buried. Perhaps I just need to get out more, but there’s some considerable heritage here.

    Tyler was the tenth President of the United States, slightly unexpected as his predecessor William Henry Harrison had only lasted for one month before dying and that’s still the shortest period in office for a US President. There’s an historians’ view of former Presidents at https://www.c-span.org/presidentsurvey2021/?category=6 which puts Tyler towards the bottom of the list, although not as far down as Trump so that’s one thing.

    Tyler had fifteen children, a record for any US President which is unlikely now to be surpassed, and in terms of his political legitimacy, some of his political opponents referred to him as “His Accidency”. This was a tricky route to navigate as Presidents hadn’t previously died in office and some thought that Tyler should just temporarily manage the responsibilities of the President and not take over the entire role which is what he ended up doing. This whole situation wasn’t formally resolved until the 25th Amendment to the Constitution in 1967, but credit to Tyler for managing to stay in the post for the full four years.

    The burial of Tyler took place in 1862 and Jefferson Davis started to get involved with that whole arrangement, ignoring Tyler’s wishes for a simple funeral. Tyler was buried under a Confederate flag, the only former US President not to have been covered with the flag of the United States.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – President James Monroe)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – President James Monroe)

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    There are two former Presidents buried at Hollywood Cemetery, James Monroe and John Tyler.

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    The grave of James Monroe (1758-1831) who was the fifth President of the United States, serving between 1817 and 1825, and one of the Founding Fathers. Often noted for the Monroe Doctrine, which defined the foreign policy of US politics for over a century, as well as being one of the people responsible for the Louisiana Purchase earlier on in his career. That purchase is still staggering, Monroe and others were meant to go and buy New Orleans from the French for no more than $10 million, but he managed to buy half of what is now the United States for $15 million.

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    Quite an ornate exterior, Monroe was initially buried in New York at the Marble Cemetery and wasn’t re-interred here in Richmond for 27 years. I’m not entirely sure what he would have thought about that little arrangement.

    And here he is in a painting by Samuel Morse from 1819. Two potential quiz questions here, Monroe died on Independence Day, 4 July, the third of the first five US Presidents to do so, but none have since. Also, with the exception of George Washington, he’s the only US President to have a capital city named after him, in this case, Monrovia in Liberia.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – Confederate Army Memorial Pyramid)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – Confederate Army Memorial Pyramid)

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    This large pyramid is located at Hollywood Cemetery and was erected here in 1869 to commemorate the 18,000 Confederate men who lost their lives in the Civil War and were buried here. The cemetery itself prefers the interpretation not that the Civil War was “a lost cause” but that it united the nation and set the foundation for the future.

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    The pyramid stands 27 metres high and was designed by Charles H Dimmock (1831-1873).

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    The 1869 stone marking that the pyramid was erected by the Hollywood Memorial Association.

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    Some of the thousands of Confederate graves which have been well cared for.

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    Located next to the pyramid, this feels slightly out of place in the cemetery……

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – Iron Dog)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond – Iron Dog)

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    OK, my final post about the Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond…. This is one of the best known graves because of the cast iron Newfoundland dog. The dog is guarding the grave of a little girl (there’s not agreement on her first name, although her surname was Rees) and it’s traditional to place toys here to commemorate her life. As to why the dog is present, many historians seem to agree that it was placed here in the early 1860s during the Civil War to prevent it being melted down for the war effort, although it could just have been placed here by the little girl’s family. Whichever story is true, this is now an iconic location for the city of Richmond.