Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Tag: Gdansk

Gdansk Group Trip – Day 4 (Under Beer Again)

My second visit to Under Beer of the week, I won’t add much to what I’ve written numerous times before about this excellent bar.

One of the reasons I’ve returned here yet again, this time traipsing the whole group along, is that they have Funky Fluid cans in the fridges that I usually haven’t had before. Viola is part of their ice cream sour series, this time with blueberries, plums, raspberries, marshmallow and vanilla, an intriguing combination. It was very decent, but it didn’t quite have the creaminess and smoothness that some others in the series have.

However, the Triple Gelato Berries and Cream absolutely surprised and delighted me. It was creamy, rich in taste, fruity by smell, packed with flavours of blackcurrants, raspberries and some sweetness from the marshmallow. A beautiful beer and Bev was so surprised and delighted when she tried it that she excitedly ordered one to herself. Bev was slightly less surprised and delighted when it transpired that I had purchased the last one. I think I’ve done sufficiently well at selling Funky Fluid beers though, with Richard and Bev at least being keen to try them.

I wasn’t eating as I was still content with the hot dog and beer at the football, but Richard went for a cheese salad thing.

Ross enjoyed his pizza, but Bev wasn’t happy as her bagel didn’t have a proper hole in it. I did offer to create a hole if that would help, but apparently not. As usual here, the service was friendly, personable and engaging, with the team members managing to sort out the payments despite our group being quite demanding. I didn’t say anything of course, I had already paid and so I waited outside only slightly impatiently.

We didn’t linger for too long in the bar as they were showing Eurovision, and I didn’t much fancy sitting staring at the screens of that nonsense for very long. Richard would have probably sat there and watched it all night, but I was far too social for that, I felt the need to get to another bar so that we could discuss important matters in the world. Or matters important to me anyway. Another positive visit to this bar though, all rather lovely.

May 19, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 4 (Train from Gdynia Redłowo into Gdansk)

I had wondered how easy it would be to get back into Gdansk after watching the football in Gdynia, but fortunately it’s a short walk to Gdynia Redłowo which is part of the SKM line. The station was quite busy, but most people were heading back into Gdynia, meaning that the platform into Gdansk wasn’t too busy. The signage here is clear and explains how long it takes to get to the stations further along the line.

The police marching onto the station for reasons I didn’t uncover and thought best not to get too closely involved with. There was a little bit of a queue for the ticket machine and I’m always slightly nervous when there are ten people behind me in the queue and I’m using the machine I’m not used to. Fortunately, all went well, and I don’t think I held anyone up. Ticket prices were cheap, something like £1 or so.

It’s a bit clunky as a train, but it does the job well enough. It reminds of the Pacer trains that Northern were using until relatively recently.

Into Gdansk around an hour after we left the football ground. This is Gdansk’s railway station and, interestingly, it is similar to the railway station at Colmar station in France, these were two locations in the German Empire at the time of their construction in the late nineteenth century. Unusually for Poland, the renovations and modernisation to this railway station seem quite overdue as they’ve been doing them for years and I’m not sure when the final completion date is planned for. It is the biggest investment that PKP, the national rail provider, have yet made so I’m assuming it’ll be all rather impressive when it’s finished.

May 19, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 4 (Public Transport Debacle)

The task that we all had for the fourth day was to make it to Oliwa, two of us from Gdynia and four from Gdansk. This sounded a relatively easy task, the public transport in the Tricity is excellent. However, it’s not idiot proof as we discovered.

Richard and I got muddled up and weren’t confident that we should be on the train that we were, so we got off at Sopot and boarded a different one. I decided to go to the front of the train to seek a conductor, but they didn’t seem bothered about the situation, but we didn’t want to risk it further. The mistake that we made was not realising that the SKM train service wasn’t listed on the boards or screens, so the trains were there but we waited for a regional train which were much more infrequent. No real problems for us, but it took us longer to make the journey than it needed to.

Finally in Oliwa. Fortunately, the others had patiently waited at a cafe for us and hadn’t started on the day’s activities.

The others hadn’t fared much better on their travels. Bev and Susanna bought senior tickets successfully and Ross said “same again” and managed to get a senior ticket for himself which isn’t really what he wanted. Two of them also had tickets to different locations to the other for reasons unknown. However, the most exciting was yet to come, Susanna didn’t realise that she needed to validate her train ticket on the platform and got sternly told off by a train guard. After apologising and appealing to the guard’s sense of fair play, given that they at least had tickets the guard decided to let them off. Thanks to Steve for this photo and it seems as if he was the only person who knew how to purchase the correct ticket. He’s very sensible is that Steve.

May 16, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 4 (Oliwa Cathedral)

My idea for the fourth day of the expedition was to show the group some more of the Tricity of Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia, as well as Oliwa which is a suburb of Gdansk. We started the day at Oliwa Cathedral (formally known as the Archcathedral Basilica of the Holy Trinity), but the next post will be about transportgate which we faced in getting there, which was challenging for just about all of us. I’ve visited this cathedral a couple of times before, but it’s always worth a repeat visit.

The history of Oliwa Cathedral dates back to the 12th century, originally founded as a simple wooden structure in 1186 by Sambor I of Gdansk, Duke of Pomerania. Over the centuries, the cathedral underwent numerous expansions and renovations, resulting in a combination of architectural styles ranging from Romanesque and Gothic to Baroque. The first brickwork was added in 1224, and subsequent reconstructions took place in 1234-1236. Despite facing destruction and damage over the years, the cathedral persevered and witnessed significant transformations.

In recognition of its historical and cultural significance, Oliwa Cathedral was bestowed with various titles and honours, including become the Polish cathedral of Gdansk in 1925. This was because Gdansk had become the independent Free City of Danzig, meaning that a new religious order was needed. In 1976, it was designated a minor basilica, and in 1992, it was elevated to the status of a metropolitan cathedral. The cathedral houses notable features, including a substantial Rococo organ renowned worldwide. This was designed by Johann Wilhelm Wulff, also known as Brother Michael, the organ’s construction spanned from 1763 to 1788 and received subsequent improvements by organ masters.

We tried to get inside and at first thought that there was a service taking place, so we went to wait outside. Something didn’t feel right as there wasn’t meant to be a service on, so Richard went to check on what was happening. He returned scared as he had seen a nun and had run away, so we instead asked Susanna as she is scared of nothing. It transpired that there was an organ recital, but it was coming to an end so we could go in. Richard commented how lovely he found the organ music, whereas Bev said several times that she absolutely hated it.

Steve, recreating Susanna’s infamous camera pose.

Bev, trying to look innocent in the cathedral’s nave.

The cathedral’s second organ, which is a choir organ dating back to 1680. Incidentally, I like those steps, they’ve got some character to them.

I’m always intrigued by wall paintings which have been restored and exposed once again, it’s hard to imagine what the now whitewashed walls would have once looked like.

More decoration above a religious and holy cupboard.

The choir and chancel.

The roof of the choir and chancel.

Looking back along the nave once again. Inside the cathedral, there are 23 different altars which are mostly in the Baroque and Rococo style.

The cathedral’s main organ. This has been repaired many times, not least when the Prussian army pinched some of the pipes during the First World War and melted them down. I’m sure that the cathedral authorities thought that this was entirely sub-optimal.

This is a beautiful building and I think everyone in our group thought that it was worth visiting, despite Bev’s negative commentary about their organ music which is renowned around the country. There’s no charge to enter the building, although donations are appreciated and there appears to be a charge for those who want to listen to the organ music.

May 16, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 3 (Tawerna Dominikanska)

My restaurant choice for the evening was located in front of the moored up galleon which we had earlier sailed across the seas on. Well, sailed across to Westerplatte, but the principle is the same.

Gold trees with lemons, it was some interesting decor. There was an immediate welcome though and we were given a table which allowed us to look out at the galleon throughout the meal. The interior felt spacious and it remained busy throughout our dine. I had sent Susanna in earlier on to book the table, as she is the most social member of the group, with reservations advisable on weekend evenings.

I’m always content with a Żywiec Porter.

This was delightful, Zurek which is Polish sour rye soup. Realistically this was more food than I needed as a starter, but I enjoy eating the bread whilst progressing down the soup as you can’t usually eat the bowl in restaurants. The soup itself was rich in flavour, the sausages were tender and there was the traditional egg as well, a real combination of tastes and textures. A sustaining meal in itself, Richard also ordered this and I think it’s fair to say that we were both surprised and delighted by it. This was the star of the culinary show for me, I’m back in Norwich now, but I really wouldn’t mind another soup and beer of the quality I received here.

The main course was cod and chips, which perhaps wasn’t entirely original of me, but three of our group ordered it. Ross bought an entire cow at his end of the table as he wanted steak whilst Richard went through some sous vide offering. The fish was fried, although being quite British I would have preferred it to have been battered as well, but I liked the contrasting flavour of the sauerkraut and the chips were salty and firm on the exterior.

Richard decided to put on a little sneezing show for the restaurant, which was lapped up enthusiastically by a nearby table, but our table didn’t of course say anything as we’re ultra polite. I think everyone was suitably impressed with the food, which was reasonably priced and served in large portions. The service was attentive and polite, with the main server being willing to present everyone with their own bill which I thought was very customer service driven as I’m sure that’s a nightmare to faff about with.

The restaurant is located in a touristy area of Gdansk, but I’d say that they’ve avoided becoming a tourist trap and have decided to focus on seafood. The on-line reviews are positive and the prices are reasonable, so I think it’s a safe bet and the views over our galleon (as I’m referring to it) were quite a bonus. Richard and I left at around 22:00 as we had to go to our hotel in Gydnia, whilst the others had a rather shorter walk to get back to their accommodation. I’m told that everyone went back, although I suspect that Bev and Susanna went off to buy a bottle of wine or similar for their room. But I’m not one for gossip.

May 16, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 3 (Craft Beer at Lawendowa 8)

This is a craft beer bar in Gdansk that I haven’t visited before and I’m not sure how I haven’t noticed it. It’s Untappd verified and located at ul. Lawendowa 8, nearly opposite to Pułapka. The interior is quirky, some artwork that Bev liked more than most of us, some cinema seating and a range of different chairs to sit on.

There’s Richard and a red bear. It’s not evident to me which is which from this photo, I’ll let readers decide for themselves.

I started with the Imperial Herr Axolotl with Prickly Pear and Lime from Ale Browar. There was some sourness to this and I liked the fruit flavours.

I asked about some of the tempting options in the fridges, and after discovering I hadn’t tried this one from Funky Fluid’s Gelato series, I eagerly went for it. With a name like Bublanina, I knew that I wouldn’t be disappointed, it was packed with cherry and fruit flavours with a suitable amount of sourness. Quite a complex beer in terms of the number of flavours, it didn’t taste as if it was 5.5%. Once again, I was surprised and delighted by Funky Fluid, perhaps the most innovative brewery that I know.

I took a group photo, but the lighting here is terrible, but it’ll just have to do.

I liked this venue, the service was friendly, there was a well curated beer list, the interior was quirky and they had a red bear. It’s not the largest of venues and they don’t do food, but it has an informal and inviting atmosphere to it. All considered, if I may say so (which I think I can), it was another excellent choice of mine for a pre-meal drink.

May 15, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 3 (The Galleon Returns)

The galleon sweeping in to take us back to Gdansk after our little exploration of Westerplatte.

Captain Pugwash and his deck hand.

No-one in the group agreed to try and climb up the rigging, despite my offering 20p.

I didn’t know that the National Geographic had a boat, but yet here it is.

More rigging. The galleon was being serenaded by a group of drunk men from Northern Ireland and, rather more quietly, the live singer on board. I regretted both if I’m being honest but I’ve never been one for the raucous. Bev very much enjoyed both and was screeching some sort of shanty related noise to those nearby, but I didn’t say anything as the main objective is to ensure that everyone enjoys themselves. Although perhaps in an ideal world she could have enjoyed herself a little less if I may share my private thoughts on the singing.

The cranes of Gdansk.

Inside the galleon just before we disembarked, or deshipped, whatever the term is.

It was a suitably relaxing trip back and I nearly fell asleep, but luckily Bev’s singing and chatter kept me awake. I’ve got some video of the expedition, I’ll try and compile it together over the next week or so when I’ve worked out to edit videos. I’d recommend the whole galleon tour, it’s reasonably priced and the return fare isn’t much more than a single fare. The live music added some character to proceedings and there is a bar for those who want to enjoy a drink.

May 15, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 3 (Westerplatte)

We enjoyed our galleon trip to Westerplatte and we had a couple of hours here to explore the area. I’ve visited a couple of times before and this peninsular of land is important because it is where a Polish military garrison was established in the 1930s and also where the first fighting of the Second World War took place.

Rather unusually for Poland, a number of the information signs have been vandalised. There is a previous post about Westerplatte on this blog, but unfortunately the links to the images have become broken, so that’s something else that I need to fix.

A map of how the area once looked.

There are some remnants of defensive buildings with the coastline being off to the right of this photo. Some of the party wanted to go and look at the sea, but my firm leadership meant that the group had to wait until the walk back.

The remains of Polish Guardhouse No. 5 which the Germans attacked on 2 September 1939. Seven Polish soldiers, including Corporal Adolf Petzelt, were killed, with the surviving soldiers restoring the break in the defensive line by 7 September 1939. I’ll return in a later post to the bravery of these soldiers.

The cemetery for Polish army soldiers which was unveiled in July 1946. The resistance from the Polish soldiers at Westerplatte surprised the Germans, with the German commander Friedrich-Georg Eberhardt allowing the Polish commander Henryk Sucharski to keep his sword when he was finally captured. Those were the days of at least some honour amongst soldiers, the Nazi regime wanted to treat the Poles as sub-human and any such basic courtesies were soon lost.

Into one of the bomb damaged buildings. It’s not the most inviting of signs to be fair.

Unfortunately, since my last visit, people can’t go downstairs into this basement. The building was designed to collapse if bombed, but not to damage the cellar area which needed to be protected as it was a shelter. Despite the huge damage caused, the design worked and the cellar area was protected.

An amazing structure, I think the others in the group would have been interested in being able to access the whole building. I imagine that it was just all too dangerous though.

This memorial, the Westerplatte Monument, to the Polish soldiers who defended the coast was constructed between 1964 and 1966, using earth from the Gdansk docks renovation to build the mound. There was a plan to incorporate a museum into the structure, but this wasn’t ultimately added. The communist authorities at the time had no interest in promoting anything that might be anti Soviet, but this got through as they wanted to show how strong the local people were against the Germans.

The view from the top of the mound.

After some complaining from the others that they wanted to see the sea, we walked back to the galleon this way. The sand is fine and soft, but Bev refused to go into the water saying that it was too cold. It meant that I had diverted back this way and no-one wanted to make sandcastles or anything. Although the recent history of this area is military, it once had a leisure element with it being something of a spa area.

Whilst waiting for the galleon to take us back to Gdansk, we indulged in some ice creams and drinks. Bev had a coffee and spent five minutes complaining about it, whilst Richard had a tea and complained about that because it wasn’t served with boiling water. They’re a tough bunch to work with, but the rest of us were happy with our acquisitions. With that, we were ready to wait for our return galleon journey and Bev had promised again that she wouldn’t sing loud sea shanties.

May 15, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 3 (Galleon Tour to Westerplatte)

A few years ago I went on this galleon tour with my friend Łukasz on his stag weekend in Gdansk and I recall him enthusiastically working through the bar on board. As I thought a trip to Westerplatte would be interesting for the group, I thought it would be rather pleasant to go back on it. I was slightly alarmed to read in the promotional material that there would be sea shanties, but Bev promised not to sing so I decided to risk it.

Here’s Captain Pugwash and the rest of the crew.

They’ve got two of these galleons which go to numerous destinations, but mostly Westerplatte and Sopot.

I took my place at the front of the ship. I don’t know the nautical terms.

Look at the eager anticipation of the crew members. Ross was wondering when he would next look at this phone, Bev was planning her next sea shanty, Richard was getting ready to provide IT support to the captain and Susanna had fallen asleep. I thought that the galleon operators were very lucky to have us on board with such a range of talent ready to help them.

The 50 metre high Amber Sky ferris wheel which was installed here in 2018.

The bascule foot bridge opens for us.

A Hurtigruten cruise liner. Susanna mentioned these to Richard a few years ago and he rushed to book one before she could. Or something like that, I get muddled up with the exact facts.

The football stadium that Ross and I had walked to earlier on during the week.

There will be the delight, at some stage, of a longer video that I took on this outbound expedition, but that’s realistically going to have to wait until my return to Norwich. For the moment, the above is a snippet of what I had to deal with, with Bev breaking her promise that she wouldn’t sing shanty songs. Fortunately, they stopped playing them when the galleon set sail, but on the return they were playing for the entire voyage, but more on that later. There was also a loud group who I think Bev wanted to be with as they were singing shanties, but I had deliberately walked to the other end of the ship. I think of my friend Julian during situations like this and think what would he do. He’d deliberately walk to the other end of the ship, he’s an inspiration.

The weather was good for us, actually too hot but I enjoyed the breeze when we got out to open water. The trip to Westerplatte takes just over twenty minutes and I enjoyed standing at the front pretending that I was an admiral, as I’m easily pleased like that. It’s also a tour through the history of Gdansk, starting in the historic Hanseatic centre before going through the still operating industrial area and dockyards. Dotted along the riverside are modern constructions, part of the rapid growth which Gdansk is going through.

I’m also pleased to report that none of the group fell overboard or anything similar, so we were then ready to explore Westerplatte.

May 14, 2023
Gdansk Group Trip – Day 3 (Słony Spichlerz)

Unfortunately, and rather inevitably, I’ve got behind with trying to write about this weekend given just how busy it has been. I’ve managed to ensure that no-one has had a chance to sit down and think, as we have had too many bars to visit to allow that to happen. Anyway, there is some drama to come, which all adds to the excitement for my two loyal readers. Given that Richard was about to appear I thought we’d go to a slightly decadent food court which I’ve visited before, Słony Spichlerz.

Pizza for lunch always seems a good idea, this is from the Czerwony Piec pizza outlet at the food court and the beer is the Bałtycki Dziad Stout, a very acceptable stout from Alebrowar. Served searingly hot, the pizza was just what I was hoping for in terms of tastes and flavours, with Bev questioning whether I’d made up the phrase of leopard spotting. I hadn’t, but if it isn’t chicken nuggets then her knowledge is a little limited. Ross ordered a vegetarian pizza, for reasons unknown, then quickly and willingly swapped that for some of Bev’s pizza when the opportunity arose. On the bright side, Bev had nothing to complain about, well, other than the font wasn’t to her liking on the menu as she couldn’t easily see the wi-fi code. But, I didn’t say anything.

I think it’s really useful to offer people a venue where they can choose from six or so different food options. Then everyone in the group all has pizza anyway, but as long as there’s happiness all around then that’s fine by me.

After he only got slightly lost, we were finally joined for lunch by Richard, who had enjoyed his specialist evening in Warsaw the night before. He had already eaten several plates of food on his first class rail service, and had experienced a debacle with the luggage storage at Gdansk which he dealt with admirably. He needed change, didn’t have any, couldn’t find an ATM that didn’t require a large withdrawal and then had to find a shop and get the change he needed for the locker. I’d say that he was very brave. That story really deserves its own post, but it’s best to want people leaving more.

Back to the more important matter, this food court is sizeable and has plenty of tempting food options along with an upstairs bar. There’s a fair amount of seating and the prices are towards the higher end of the scale, but they’re still reasonable.

May 14, 2023