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  • 2022 US Trip – Day 6 (Amtrak Train from Penn Station to Richmond, Virginia)

    2022 US Trip – Day 6 (Amtrak Train from Penn Station to Richmond, Virginia)

    I’ve already mentioned how much I liked the new Amtrak station at Penn in New York and I left that post as the announcement to board was made.

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    This is the queue for the train, which wraps around in front of the 13/14 gate sign before then going around it and then down the escalator. It was just as long behind me and it’s the most organised queue that I’ve seen at a railway station. Staff were ensuring people were waiting in the correct line and double checking that they were boarding the appropriate train. In the UK there would be a mad dash for the train, but perhaps the United States just know how to queue better.

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    This photo is taken from the opposite direction to the previous one and shows how long the queue still is.

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    Blurry unfortunately, but there’s the train.

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    The train was only busy for the first section of its journey between New York and cities such as Baltimore and Washington DC. On nearly all Amtrak trains I haven’t got anyone sitting next to me, but for the first half of this one I was sitting next to a lovely lady. She kept giving me grapes which was kind of her.

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    The space available on these trains puts the UK ones to shame. I can use my laptop because of the drop-down table that comes down and have plenty of legroom.

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    I didn’t order anything as I had acquired packs of Cheetos for my journey in advance, but here’s the menu for the buffet car.

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    That’s what it looked like later on during the journey, very peaceful and quite industrial.

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    One of the most delightful elements of Amtrak travel is seeing so much of the United States. Much of this doesn’t look as impressive in photos as in real life, or the exciting views passed before I had time to take a photo of them, but my 6.5 hour journey went by so quickly. I’m not sure that I’ve ever said that about travelling on UK trains, but this is a very stress-free way of getting about the United States. I had purchased these tickets some way in advance when the exchange rate was better, this trip cost around £25 which I thought was quite reasonable. Amtrak trains go relatively slowly and so it would have been quicker to get the bus, which I think was around five hours, but this is just a more decadent way to travel.

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    Disembarking at the Amtrak railway station in Richmond, my first time in Virginia. One of the joys about rail travel, as opposed to bus travel, is that you can actually see the countryside rather than just seeing endless roads, and I got off feeling more refreshed than when I got on. Amtrak should use that as a marketing slogan.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond)

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    Hollywood Cemetery was just a few minutes walk from my accommodation and it also opened at 08:00 so I felt that I’d make an early start and head over. There are a couple of things evident from this map of the site, firstly there are two US Presidents buried here, and secondly, there is a lot of Confederate history and there’s some vandalism clearly visible.

    The burial site of the Presidents intrigued me the most and there are seven former holders of the office buried in Virginia, more than in any other State. There are only three places where there are two Presidents in the same location, which include Quincy (which I’ve visited), Arlington (which I’ve visited but didn’t see the graves) and here. More about those burials, and others in a separate post though, to avoid this one becoming too long.

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    It’s all peaceful and calm, I can think of much worse places to be buried.

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    As I mentioned, there a lot of Confederate history at this cemetery and that’s of course challenging in a number of different ways. I’ll come to him in a later post, but there’s the burial of the only Confederate President, Jefferson Davis, and thousands of troops who died fighting for their cause.

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    Not looking entirely dissimilar from the CWGC graves, these are the gravestones of those who died fighting for the Confederate cause.

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    And they go and on for some distance. But I’ll return to this in the next few posts.

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    I thought that this was one of the most beautiful sculptures at the cemetery.

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    It would be wrong to describe this as jovial, but I assume that the deceased had something of a sense of humour with the “another step into Trinity’s great dance to which all are invited”.

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    There are vaults as well as graves, many built into the undulating ground.

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    A view back towards the city of Richmond.

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    The views are spectacular, there’s a footpath and railway line in the foreground, with the James River behind it (named after King James I).

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    The cemetery was designed by John Notman in 1847 and it opened for its first burial in 1849, with the location having been thought ideal as a final resting place. I can’t say that I disagree with that, there are 135 acres of land here in its grand elevated riverside location.

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    Dream Girl.

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    The cemetery is still open for burials today and there’s plenty of space left, along with the neighbouring Mount Calvary cemetery which is for Catholics.

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    The White family burials.

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    And after ninety minutes of walking about, I thought that I best go and explore the rest of the city.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 5 (Skyscrapers By Central Park)

    2022 US Trip – Day 5 (Skyscrapers By Central Park)

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    I decided to have a little walk around Central Park, unfortunately cut rather short by a deluge of rain, but it’s the rapidly (well, relatively) changing views of the skyscrapers around the edges of the park that I found the most captivating. If I’ve got my skyscrapers correct, of the tallest two, that’s Steinway Tower to the left and Central Park Tower on the right.

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    I think that Steinway Tower, or 111 West 57th Street as it’s officially called, looked very odd in the skyline because of just slender and thin it is. The development has 60 luxury apartments, of which only 46 are located within the main part of the tower. How much space do people really need in a city of such homelessness? The apartments cost from between $7.5 million to over $60 million, although the views are really something impressive judging by the photos at the official web-site at https://111w57.com/.

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    As an aside, look at the rainy skies….

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    Given that, I went to hide in a covered area and got there just in time.

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    Along with two police horses and their riders who also wanted to avoid the rain. New York has one of the largest number of mounted police in the United States, there are over fifty.

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    And a post-rain view of the skyscrapers.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 5 (No Raccoons in Riverside Park)

    2022 US Trip – Day 5 (No Raccoons in Riverside Park)

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    Riverside Park is a four mile long park which is located by the Hudson River and I don’t have much to note about my meanderings around some of it. It was odd being able to hear an underground railway line underneath the park, which is the Freedom Tunnel in which 100 homeless people used to live before it was thought a good idea to remove them. One of the entry points is visible in the above photo and there’s more information about this rather fascinating tunnel at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freedom_Tunnel.

    The biggest disappointment was to discover the below.

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    There were raccoons in the park and I didn’t see any ?

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 5 (Grimm Artisanal Ales)

    2022 US Trip – Day 5 (Grimm Artisanal Ales)

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    The first brewery of the evening was Grimm Artisanal Ales, although I had to faff about in a local park for fifteen minutes as I turned up at 16:45 and hadn’t realised that the taproom element didn’t open until 17:00. The brewery was founded by Joe and Lauren Grimm and this is their main taproom, located in Brooklyn. They were founded in 2013, but it took them five years to get a brewery set-up of their own, relying on using other breweries for the first few years.

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    It’s another organised and even quite alluring brewery set-up, with the brewing equipment off to the left. There’s plenty of seating as well, including an outside area for those who like to sit by traffic fumes and insects. Sitting at the bar was popular during my visit, but there were some lower chairs available as well. The staff members were friendly and pro-active in explaining the options, it felt a welcoming venue to visit. I visited on an early evening on Thursday and it was getting relatively busy, but I can imagine that it must soon hit its capacity on a Friday and Saturday evening.

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    The menu is on Untappd, but there’s a printed version as well which is always handy. It’s a well balanced menu in terms of the different beer styles and there are also plenty of ciders on there as well.

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    I tried five different beers, this is the most colourful, the Lilt fruited sour. My favourite was the bottle pour Memory Palace, a 12% imperial stout. That beer had some coconut and chocolate flavours and was very smooth for its ABV, a rather lovely way to end the visit. A very passable bar and one that I’d visit again.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 4 (Working on the Track in New York)

    2022 US Trip – Day 4 (Working on the Track in New York)

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    I really appreciate the complete lack of subtlety with some of the overground sections of the New York Subway. This particular clump of metal leading to West Farms Square in the Bronx dates to the first few years of the twentieth century. There’s more information about the elevated rails of the New York Subway at https://www.nycsubway.org/wiki/Chapter_13._Design_of_Steel_Elevated_Railways which shows their scale and complexity.

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    I mention all this as the track was a little bit broken when I came back to the station after visiting Bronx Zoo, hoping to get back to Manhattan. The only solution was to go one stop in the wrong direction and then change tracks back again whilst the engineers resolved the problem. There was no subtle way that they were fixing the track, the engineers were high in the air either whacking the rails with huge mallets or watching the others whacking the rails with huge mallets. This is what I consider true civil engineering to be and I think that’s what my friend Liam does all day (other than drinking tea). I thought that it was most impressive.

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    They didn’t shut the line down either, the repair crew just moved out of the way if there was a train going past on the neighbouring track. There was something rather industrial and exciting about listening them hitting steel (or whatever it’s made out of) about the place.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 4 (Evil Twin Brewing New York – Dumbo)

    2022 US Trip – Day 4 (Evil Twin Brewing New York – Dumbo)

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    Next on the brewery list for me to visit was Evil Twin Brewing in Brooklyn, which has Danish origins that I didn’t know about (although I can imagine my friend Nathan knew that and will tut that I didn’t because I’m sure he’s told me before that the other twin founded Mikkeller and they don’t get on). Fortunately they also served in smaller sizes that are shown on this board, which meant that I was able to try six different beers. It also makes number 20, the Danish-style lager, feel more in keeping with the brewery’s heritage than I had realised at the time.

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    The first three beers that I went for and look at those beautiful colours. The one in the front is ‘I Love You With All My Tart’,a fruit sour with rich tastes of blueberries and strawberries. There are apparently graham crackers in there as well, but that passed me right by. The one on the right is ‘Continental Breakfast Sour – Peaches ‘N Cream’ which was one of the best fruit sours that I’ve had, so smooth and hiding its 7% ABV, it was effectively a peach fruit smoothie with some syrupy tastes as well to add to the whole arrangement. The other beer is ‘Fruit For Thought – Plum, Red Currant, Apricot and Dark Sweet Cherry’ although I was mostly getting plum. Perhaps a little too sweet, but still delicious, just not quite as decadent as I had hoped.

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    There’s a separate coffee shop bar set-up in the corner which opens in the morning, with the central bar then taking over from lunchtime. The service in the bar was pro-active and friendly, with the staff immensely knowledgeable about the beers. It was all laid-back and there were plenty of power points around which I only noticed as I was leaving. I was a little transfixed with the beers to have noticed them earlier on, that’s the excuse that I’m going with.

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    And then the next three and I liked that they had written the beer numbers on the tray so that I didn’t get muddled up. It’s the one at the rear left that I want to particularly mention, the ‘Cookies ‘N Cream ‘N Smores and ‘N Chocolate‘ which was also my 2,000th check-in on Untappd (woooo!! and here’s my Untappd link). And, let’s be honest, stouts don’t come much better than this. 10% ABV but not feeling like it, all of the ingredients in the beer’s name were evident by taste and this was very much packed with complementing flavours. For anyone scared of flavour in their beer, then avoid this. I had to sip at this as it was so rich, but it had as much depth of flavour as any food dessert that I’ve had. This one really was pure decadence, although perhaps a bit sweet for a lot of tastes, but I do like my imperial stouts.

    As for the venue, I’d entirely recommend it, there’s a choice of sitting at the bar which I did, or sitting at the tables, although I can imagine that this must get full relatively quickly as it’s not that large. I’ll leave this post by linking to some brilliant advertising that Evil Twin did a couple of years ago.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 4 (Tobacco Warehouse and Views Over East River)

    2022 US Trip – Day 4 (Tobacco Warehouse and Views Over East River)

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    Located opposite Evil Twin Brewery, this is the former Tobacco Warehouse which is now used by the St. Ann’s Warehouse theatre group. To me, it’s one of those fake buildings where there’s now just the frontage and nothing else, although that’s not a recent design decision that’s the fault of the theatre, the interior went long ago. At least the building is in usage again today, it was constructed before the Civil War and was used as a tobacco inspection centre.

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    Next to it is Manhattan Bridge which crosses the East River (which isn’t technically a river, it’s a tidal estuary, and it’s also known as the Sound River) into Manhattan. Work on the bridge started in 1901 and it was completed in 1909, which seems fairly reasonable going for a structure of this complexity. I’m sure my friend Liam would have struggled to get this constructed any quicker today. There was though a structural mistake made with later additions to the bridge which meant that there was a dip in the road and rail lines, which wasn’t entirely ideal. They fixed this in 1980, although only at great cost. The bridge was going to known as Bridge Number 3, which is entirely practical, but the New York Times hated that, and newspapers are powerful so it was renamed.

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    The Manhattan Bridge is here on the right, with the Brooklyn Bridge, the first bridge to cross the river (or tidal estuary), on the left hand side of the photo, built between 1870 and 1883. It was a difficult sell for the developers and they had to bribe city officials to get the required permissions to construct it. It was once known as the ‘Great East River Bridge’ which I think has quite a ring to it, but it took its current name in 1915.

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    A nice little beach area, there’s a pleasant riverside park here.

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    The Freedom Tower and much else in downtown Manhattan is visible in the background.

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    Underneath the Manhattan Bridge, it seemed a popular place for locals to have a little picnic or even an afternoon nap.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 4 (William Jay Gaynor Memorial in New York)

    2022 US Trip – Day 4 (William Jay Gaynor Memorial in New York)

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    This bronze bust is located in Cadman Plaza in Brooklyn and commemorates the life of William Jay Gaynor, the Mayor of New York between 1910 and 1913. Gaynor was seen as a good man who was a reformist visionary, particularly in the area of criminal justice.

    The memorial, made from pink Milford granite, was designed by Adolph Alexander Weinman who was also responsible for some of the sculptures at Pennsylvania Station,a location which might have perhaps been seen as one of the architectural wonders of the modern world. Some of Weinman’s works were saved, but it was the photo of one his works, Day, in landfill that was an important trigger to salvage even more. As a random aside, it was the disastrous incompetence of Stuart T. Saunders, who ran Penn Central which demolished the station, and he died in Richmond which is where I’m writing this blog post. Saunders also sought to destroy Grand Central railway station, but good men and women were able to thwart his aims. Anyway, I’ve digressed again.

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    The rear of the memorial. Anyway, the reason I started on this post was not to complain again about the demolition of a beautiful railway station, but it was to comment that there’s a famous photo taken just after a politician was nearly assassinated. And that photo is of Gaynor, although he somehow survived and had bits of bullet in his neck until his death a few years after the assassination attempt in August 1910.

    And there’s the photo, with Gaynor rather obviously the one in the middle.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 5 (A Rainy Start)

    2022 US Trip – Day 5 (A Rainy Start)

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    No real text to this post, but I just liked this photo of a rainy morning in New York. I had been warned by someone just how rainy it was when walking down the steps of the hotel (well, pod place) but hadn’t quite expected it to be as bad as it was. That’s the disadvantage of being confined to a small pod away from any windows. Fortunately, I’m fully prepared for most weathers on this trip and my waterproof coat and bag cover came out, as I can’t have my McCain’s bag getting wet (primarily as the damn thing takes ages to dry). The location is Bryant Park which was first laid out in 1847 and is named after William Cullen Bryant, a long-serving editor of the New York Evening Post.