Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Dublin

2022 US Trip – Day 1 (Train from Dublin to Howth)

Nice pub name at Tara Street railway station.

The railway station opened in 1891 and it’s served by Dublin Area Rapid Transit, or DART, which is the service that I was getting to Howth. I was travelling on a Sunday and there seemed to be trains to Howth around every thirty minutes.

It’s not the most modern and sleek design for a train that I’ve seen, but it’s functional and that’ll do me. The majority of the fleet was built between 1983 and 1984, although they have a few more recent engines, although nothing later than 2004. It’s cheap though, but more later on the public transport card that I had.

This is a very good idea and I didn’t notice anyone on the train put their feet on the seats. It’s a very British problem though, it happens frequently on British trains and very rarely in Poland, where I’ve only seen it happen once. And when it did, the elderly Polish ladies nearby looked as angry as a Brit when someone has barged into a queue. I remember once on a service hearing the announcement say something along the lines of ‘if you see anyone with their feet on the seats, please call British Transport Police’ which seemed a bit excessive. I suspect it was said by an angry guard trying to scare some of the unruly passengers that he had.

It’s also not the most stylish inside the carriages either, but for a rapid transit system, I’ve seen worse. It was a relatively busy service until near Howth, which is the end of the line.

Wooo, safely into the delights of Howth, where I’ve been meaning to go for some years. Howth is a former village which has now become effectively a suburb of Dublin, but it retains that rural feel to it. However, more on that in the next post…..

September 20, 2022
2022 US Trip – Day 2 (Aer Lingus Flight from Dublin Terminal 2 to London Heathrow Terminal 2)

As is just about visible for anyone zooming into the image to look at the screen, I arrived at the gate at 05:29 for my 06:30 flight. I left the lounge at 05:28 thinking it might take twenty minutes to get to the gate. It didn’t. I refuse to ever be realistic in case the one time that I’m not, I’ll be delayed somehow en route and miss my flight.

Here’s the Aer Lingus flight having landed into Heathrow T2, as I couldn’t get a photo in Dublin. The aircraft was at capacity and I boarded towards the end (no status with Aer Lingus) which didn’t much matter as I had an aisle seat. Nothing is provided free of charge on Aer Lingus in terms of refreshments, but there is a trolley going around selling food and drink. I can’t add much detail to the flight since I was asleep for the entirety of it, but I’m sure it was lovely.

For reference (more mine than anyone else), this was an A320, registration EI-DVE, which Aer Lingus have operated since they acquired in new in 2007.

It felt appropriate to land at Heathrow T2 on the day of the Queen’s funeral, as this is the Queen’s Terminal. Despite dire warnings from Aer Lingus about delays on the day of the funeral, including trying to get me to change my flight, everything went to clockwork in terms of the flights. Although to be fair to Aer Lingus, they did have to cancel some of their flights later on during the day, so the situation probably felt quite fluid last week.

September 20, 2022
2022 US Trip – Day 1 (Leap Visitor Card)

I hadn’t known about these Leap Visitor cards on my previous visits to Dublin, but it worked out quite handy for my 24 hours in Dublin. Getting the bus to the city centre from the airport is a slight faff using local buses, as Liam and I discovered a few months ago, as it’s cash only and no change is offered. I think the system is being improved over the next couple of years.

I read that it was possible to buy these visitor cards at WH Smiths at the arrivals floor at the terminal. Pleased at how easy it was, I went to buy one, but was told their IT system was broken. However, they said they have placed a set of cards at another shop in the terminal, where I was able to get them from. After only 5 minutes of faffing about I found what I needed and was set to go. The card costs €8 for 24 hours, which is only a little more than a return bus ticket from the airport.

The card can be used on Airline, scheduled buses operated by Dublin Bus, the Luas (the city’s tram service) and DART (the city’s light rail service). It can also be used as commuter rail in the ‘short hop zone’ although I didn’t try that.

The bus from the airport and it’s easy to validate the card on the validators which they’ve put on, or at the entrance to, all forms of public transport. On buses it’s not on the driver’s little panel of stuff, there’s a validator on the pole when entering which saves some time.

The DART back from Howth to Dublin that I mentioned in my previous post.

And for completeness, I went on a tram so that I didn’t feel I was missing out. I’m easily pleased. I’d add that they’re quite shiny new trams and I will repeat once again, there should be more tram systems in the UK….. Particularly in Norwich to replace the bloody awful bus service, but I won’t go down that rabbit hole of discussion again.

And getting off at Connolly Station, named after the Irish republican leader James Connolly.

And the bus back to the airport which departs from O’Connell Street.

There’s more about the card at https://about.leapcard.ie/leap-visitor-card, with the one day card costing €8 as I mentioned, but there are also 3 day cards for €16 and 7 day cards for €32. It’s a shame that London’s public transport isn’t as cheap as that. It’s a handy card to have though to get around the city and it was easy to use and didn’t give me any problems at the public transport gate-lines.

September 20, 2022
2022 US Trip – Day 1 (McDonald’s – Just Shut the Doors)

I popped to McDonald’s on O’Connell Street in Dublin before getting the bus back to the airport, primarily not for the delicious and decadent food (ahem) but because I wanted my phone fully charged. I’d add now that was a good idea, as it was quite hard to charge phones at Dublin airport, but more on that later.

Anyway, I mention this riveting tale here as it’s the first time I’ve been in a McDonald’s and it’s clear that they couldn’t cope with the sheer number of orders. They had over 30 customers in the store and at least 10 pick-up orders still to make, and the screens couldn’t cope with the number of orders so they were getting complaints that orders had gone missing. Who knew how many in Dublin wanted McDonald’s on a Sunday evening?

The manager, who seemed to be incredibly focused, had clearly been here before, and she shouted “just shut the doors” to the security guard who looked quite pleased at this idea. It reminded me of what it must have been like to shut the queue for those wanting to see HM Queen Elizabeth II resting in state at Westminster Hall, there’s always someone cut off who will be disappointed. I could see some very disappointed faces outside, but an air of calmness rode over the store at that point.

€2, a bargain. I was pleased at the store’s decision as I had lovely peace and quiet for about thirty minutes at an upstairs table with power points by it. Just what I wanted, it’s always a relief to have fully charged devices. This is definitely going to be a theme of this trip. As for Dublin, I think they need more McDonald’s, which I’m not sure can be said about Norwich, which seems to have about 60 already and is getting yet another one. Mind you, Dublin could do with more Greggs as well, but I’m digressing here.

September 20, 2022
2022 US Trip – Day 2 (Night at Dublin Airport)

As one of my cost cutting measures for this trip, I didn’t bother getting a hotel in Dublin for the Sunday night as I had such an early flight on the Monday morning. Hotels were over £100 per night, so I wasn’t going to do that when I’d have to get up at about 03:00 anyway. Unsurprisingly, the airport wasn’t very busy when I arrived at midnight, I think others thought that they’d pay for a hotel. Such decadence.

There’s a restaurant upstairs at Terminal 2 landside which doesn’t seem to mind people using their tables overnight, as long as they clear off by the time they open. That’s where the entirety of the Dublin early morning flight brigade went anyway, other for the two people fast asleep in the middle of the floor downstairs. This was handy from a point of getting stuff done, although to be fair I was just a little tired. But, I had two flights to sleep on, so I was content that this was a good idea, even though it clearly bloody wasn’t. Incidentally, Terminal 1 security is open 24 hours which is convenient for those not flying from Terminal 2…..

Security opened at 03:30 which was earlier than I had expected, so I thought I might as well as go through for a change of scenery. I was trying to take as long as possible, but this plan was spoiled by a helpful member of staff who pointed me towards the front of a newly opened queue, which meant I was through security in about two minutes. The photo above is of the group of people who stood there waiting for the duty free shop to open as security had managed to get there first in terms of their efficiency. Usually, the duty free shops are open when security is (so they can sell, sell, sell to quote Del Boy), but instead the airport staff were calling passengers through another door to stop them backing up and getting in the way of the security process. But I then discovered news that the airport lounge opened earlier that I expected, so all was well, I only had a few minutes to wait before I could hopefully get a coffee.

September 20, 2022
2022 US Trip – Day 2 (Aer Lingus Lounge – Terminal 2 Dublin Airport)

I had thought that the Aer Lingus lounge opened at 05:30, but it actually now opens at 04:15 which I thought was something of a result for my needs. The entry system here is a bit complex as Aer Lingus isn’t part of Oneworld, despite being owned by IAG who own British Airways, but they do allow entry to silver and gold BA card holders going to Heathrow and Gatwick when flying Aer Lingus. Although I had read this on Flyertalk, it’s noted on the door as is visible on this sign.

I arrived two minutes before the lounge opened and patiently waited outside, with the lounge opening dead on time. The member of staff seemed quite hostile though, which was unusual and I can’t recall that at an airport lounge before. Her welcome was “yes?” which seemed odd, I thought the little queue that had formed, and which I was heading as the earliest to arrive, were all likely to want to come into the lounge. Perhaps they get some sight-seers though and she was just checking.

I mentioned I had a BA flight to Heathrow, flying with Aer Lingus and had my Oneworld card. She then replied that this didn’t allow entry into the lounge as Aer Lingus weren’t part of Oneworld. My digital card has Oneworld on it, not BA, so I mentioned again that I was flying to Heathrow with Aer Lingus and had my BA card in case that made things better. She told me again that Aer Lingus weren’t part of Oneworld, before I apologised (as I’m British and assumed it was my fault) and then said as politely as I could said that I just wanted to gain access in accordance with what was on the door. She then let me in, but then started on the next person saying that his lounge card wasn’t valid. Whatever happened, he too arrived in the lounge about fifteen seconds later. I imagine it would be quite entertaining watching this, I might move a chair into the reception area if I visit again.

I have a slight suspicion that the lounge management have told the staff to try and minimise the number of entrants, as by the time I left an hour later it was very busy. It’s probably not a great strategy though. But, that matter to one side, I was in.

It was spacious, comfortable and there were plenty of different seating types. I like high seating so I can use my laptop and that was available by the food, so that was my seating arrangements decided. Also, it was the second time in two days that I was first into an airport lounge, I think I must be a bit desperate for airport entertainment at the moment.

The lounge was also clean and tidy, although perhaps that was inevitable given that I was the first person in, but everything was well maintained as well.

The food area, where there were yoghurts, biscuits, cereals, fruit and the like. It was all self-service and although relatively basic, it was handy to get coffee and biscuits to start the day with. I say “start”, although I’m not sure that I had finished the day before at that point.

Very pleasant and there were views onto the runway as well for those who wanted to spot aircraft.

That was a perfectly nice way to start the day and I was delighted that Aer Lingus had opened their lounge early as it meant time seemed to progress much quicker before my 06:30 flight to Heathrow. It’s not a hugely impressive lounge in terms of the food offering, but it was more than sufficient for me and I understand things get a bit more substantial later on during the day in that regard. It felt a modern and well designed lounge, better than I had expected.

As a repeat of the rules, BA silver and gold card holders can use the lounge if flying with Aer Lingus to Heathrow or Gatwick. The rules are though complex, but I did think the staff members could perhaps be slightly less confrontational, as someone who wasn’t sure of the rules would have likely just left without going in. But, I left happy, so all was well with the world.

September 20, 2022
Dublin – National Museum of Ireland (Bog Bodies)

Firstly, I did wonder whether it was appropriate to take and upload photos of dead bodies, but I noticed that the museum themselves did extensively, with no shortage of other imagery available on-line.

There are four different bog bodies on display at the National Museum of Ireland, perhaps not really being displayed with a great amount of dignity. Three of those bodies are below, preserved because the conditions in the bog effectively mummified them. There are around 100 bodies of this type which have been found around the world, some of whom are Soviet soldiers from the Second World War.

This is Gallagh Man who was discovered in 1821 when peat cutting and his body dates to around 200 and 400 BC.

This is Clonycavan Man who was only discovered in 2003, when a peat harvesting machine was being used. This poor man hasn’t had an ideal time of it, as it’s thought that he was murdered, perhaps as part of a sacrifice. Although historians often use the reason of sacrifice, when it was maybe just as likely there was some sort of dispute. Anyway, the body dates to between 200 and 400 BC.

This is the Baronstown West Man who was discovered in 1953 when workmen were peat cutting. He lived in the early Iron Age between around 200 to 400 AD and he was aged between around 25 and 30.

There’s plenty of information in the museum’s exhibition about the individuals, as well as reconstructions of what they looked like which does bring them to life somewhat from the rather exposed state that they are currently lying in. The preservation is though quite incredible, allowing archaeologists to get a deep understanding of the bodies, not least because the internal organs have mostly survived to some degree. It’s clear from reviews that the bog bodies are what most visitors consider to be the most intriguing part of the museum.

There’s more information about the bog bodies at https://www.museum.ie/en-IE/Collections-Research/Irish-Antiquities-Division-Collections/Collections-List-(1)/Iron-Age/Bog-Bodies-Research-Project.

November 2, 2021
Dublin – Porterhouse Temple Bar

I went to Porterhouse Central in Dublin a few years ago, so when Liam and I were in Dublin a couple of weeks ago we (well, I mainly) decided to try the Porterhouse Temple Bar located near to the River Liffey.

It was a Saturday evening and quite busy, with this photo being taken during a lull in proceedings. We were taken to a table which was suitable for our drinking needs, with the ordering process being efficient. It was perhaps a little soulless though in terms of the service, the downside of a busy bar. Although it’s Temple Bar on a Saturday evening, it would be unfair to expect exceptional personal treatment, but everyone was friendly.

The lighting didn’t make for great photos, but it was a convivial atmosphere with plenty going on in terms of the internal decoration.

I was going to get a photo of the drinks menu, but they took it away, so I made do taking a photo of the one in the toilets (there were no other customers in there). Not quite as decadent, not quite as clear, but it shows the various beer styles.

There were three dark beers, so I had half a pint of each to save me burdening myself by having to choose. I think I got them in the right order for putting on Untappd, although it was slightly fiddly as they all looked the same. They were all brewed by the brewery who operates the pub, the Porterhouse Brew Co and I thought they were all pretty much of an equal quality, which was decent but not exceptional in terms of the richness of taste. The three beers were the Irish Stout, the Plain Porter and the XXXX (that’s the name, I haven’t forgotten what the beer was called). As a random aside, it reminded me that Dublin is a great place to get dark beer given the whole presence of Guinness ensuring that stouts and porters are never far from the mind of the customer.

Some of the decoration outside the toilets.

And enjoying the drinks. I note that I always look slightly grumpy…..

Although this is a touristy and busy location, it’s still a really good pub with a friendly ambience, an interesting atmosphere and a comfortable environment. Although I went for a dark beer fest, there are numerous other beer types available brewed by Porterhouse. The service was timely, the prices were reasonable and I’m fairly confident from my experience in their other venue that the food would also be of a very acceptable quality. It might be a little touristy, but that shouldn’t deter tourists from going at least for a quick (or not quite so quick) drink……

November 1, 2021
Dublin – National Gallery of Ireland (The Virgin and Child Triptych by Tommaso del Mazza)

Following our visit to Dublin’s National Gallery of Ireland a couple of weeks ago, I felt the need to post separately about a few of the artworks.

Not wishing to sound even more dull than usual, but I do find medieval artworks such as this really quite intriguing. Primarily as they were produced for a religious purposes, which means that they would have been extremely important to someone at some stage several hundred years ago. This triptych was painted on panel by Tommaso del Mazza, an artist working in Florence at the beginning of the Italian Renaissance. The gallery put this work at circa 1400, but the Getty Museum note that he wasn’t active after 1392, so this is probably from around 1390.

I’m not an art expert, so I’ll pinch the text from the gallery themselves:

“In Christian art, saints are usually easily identifiable by their attributes. In this case Saint Lucy, standing on the right, is recognisable because she holds an oil lamp, while Saint Bernard kneels beside her wearing the robes of the Cistercian order. The identities of the two saints in the left panel remain a mystery. The small figures are portraits of donors, individuals who commissioned the altarpiece as a votive offering to God. They are depicted comparatively small, while the Virgin and Christ Child, the most important figures, are large. Tommaso del Mazza painted in a stylised late-Gothic manner using brilliant colours.”

There’s more information about the artwork on the gallery’s web-site, but other than it was presented to them by the mining magnate Sir Alfred Chester Beatty in 1951, there’s no further provenance. Which is why I’ve posted this really, it’s one of those artworks that has such a potentially fascinating history, as this was likely in a church or used for private prayer by a wealthy individual. They’ve done well working out who painted it, which was a relatively recent discovery, but its provenance seems to be lost. I very much enjoyed my visit to Florence last year and I perhaps walked by the very location where this was painted. I suspect I’ve decided to wax a bit too lyrical here so will stop now….

So, there are no great revelations or thoughts here, but it’s a painting that I liked and decided I’d better briefly write about before I forget it.

October 31, 2021
Dublin – National Gallery of Ireland

I’ve been to the National Gallery of Dublin a couple of times before, but have forgotten about that as well (there’s a theme here). As entrance is free, I pre-booked tickets for Liam and I to spend an hour here before going to another museum nearby, the Archaeology Museum. It’s quite a substantial gallery, larger than I remember, although that’s not entirely surprising as I don’t remember it.

The galleries weren’t exactly packed with visitors, although it was busier than these photos suggest.

I thought that this was quite eye-catching.

Anyway, I took photos of several of the artworks, always with the intention of writing some sparkling commentary about them. I’m not sure that’ll be happening, but I did note that there were paintings by artists including Titian, Canaletto, Rembrandt, Sisley, Monet, Caravaggio, Rubens, Gainsborough and Hogarth. My own highlight was “Parody of Raphael’s School of Athens” by Joshua Reynolds, but more on that in another post.

Anyway, all recommended, not just because it’s free, but also because the staff were particularly friendly, the galleries are substantial and everything is clearly labelled. An hour isn’t really long enough for a comprehensive visit, but allowed for a reasonable walk around the collections.

October 31, 2021