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Tuesday – Tuesday : Katowice Week (100 Years of Katowice in Poland)

During my week in the city, I managed by chance to see some of the celebrations marking 100 years since Katowice became part of an independent Poland. No longer would it be Kattowitz under German control, it would be part of what is now known as the Second Polish Republic. The Government has also created a new public holiday for 20 June, marking the Silesian Uprisings and the country’s President, Andrzej Duda, came to Katowice a few weeks ago to sign that into law. My photo is hardly ideal since there’s just lots of backs, but I understand there were some important military figures amongst that group, as well as the country’s Culture Secretary.

This was the formal parade on 20 June at the Silesian Insurgents’ Monument and I think this was more focused on marking the new public holiday. The pride in the city was evident and there was a large turnout of locals of all ages.

This photo was from the day before, and the focus on this was Katowice being 100 years as part of the independent Poland, or at least, that’s what I understand the arrangements were. I noted a brief history of all this in my Bytom post, but it was on 20 June 1922 that the Weimar Republic formally ceded the lands to Poland, with Polish troops moving in two days.

Stanisław Szeptycki (1867-1950), the leader of the Polish troops in Silesia, on his horse taking Katowice for the Polish on 22 June 1922.

I don’t know who they are, but those suited men came in Government cars which swept in, which added to the excitement of the event. Indeed, I was so excited I went to get a beer to help the Polish celebrate.

There were numerous musical performances taking place over the weekend, including also a gathering of Scouts. This made it challenging for the tram network (I mean that there’s a big performance space over the tracks, not the gathering of scouts), which crosses over this square.

There was then a parade of what appears to be of numerous uniformed services which I caught the tail end of.

Beautiful, a proud nation state.

The temperatures in Katowice were what I consider extreme, so these useful water cooling systems were handy for pedestrians in the area. I made several detours over the weekend to walk through this.

A little tank in the main square.

Residents wouldn’t have had any difficulty in finding a police officer during the weekend.

Anyway, I enjoyed visiting the city at this time. I like to think that those in Katowice 100 years ago would be proud of what it has become, still one of the most important cities in what is now the Third Polish Republic. I think it’s got a very positive future in front of it, and I wonder what it will look like in 2122, hopefully there will be plenty of craft beer bars then.

July 2, 2022
Tuesday – Tuesday : Katowice Week (Ibis Budget Katowice)

This is the Accor complex in Katowice of Ibis Budget on the left and Novotel on the right. There’s also a Mercure hotel in the city centre, next to the railway station. This is my fourth stay in this Ibis Budget hotel and I think it’s one of the better managed that I’ve seen. I know that if Richard was here he’d be straight in the Novotel, but he’s very decadent and he likes expensive things.

Ibis Budget don’t need to provide a welcome gift or drink, so this gesture of a chocolate bar and coffee was much appreciated. The staff at this hotel were always friendly and helpful, with the housekeeping staff being thorough and personable as well. I’m not sure if there are kettles in every room or whether they put that in there for me, as it’s not usual to see them in Ibis Budget hotels.

I had been in the room for about three hours before I noticed this. A very nice touch 🙂

The breakfast buffet arrangement.

Half of the breakfast room, which always had plenty of space.

The room and breakfast was about £25 per night, which I thought was excellent value for money given that it was June when hotels are getting busier.

Anyway, this is a really rather lovely hotel at a budget price. Friendly staff, spotlessly clean, I didn’t have any problems during my week here. Although they could do with a faster lift, but I won’t hold that against them.

July 2, 2022
Tuesday – Tuesday : Katowice Week (Selection of Food and Drink)

Well, I couldn’t not post about some random food and drink options I discovered during my week in Katowice. I have been to the city numerous times before, mostly pre-blog, hence why I tried to go to places I hadn’t visited before.

This little oasis of peace and calm is Coffee To Go, inside the Katowice railway station complex. They had power points, rather lovely coffee and friendly staff. It’s actually almost a little too grand an interior for a railway station, but it did work in creating a comfortable atmosphere.

Biała Małpa (white monkey) which confused me a little briefly, the right-hand side is a Mexican restaurant, but this is the left-hand side and the brewery bit. I went in the afternoon when it was quiet, and it’s a clean and comfortable environment. It’s quite large with an upstairs and also a large outside area.

Some excellent beers here, this is the Risfactor Coffee & Maple, from the formidable PINTA brewery which I’ve mentioned a few times as they’ve got their own bar in Warsaw.

Incidentally, that is a cardboard cut-out at the end of the bar. This is the TIPA TDH Cryo Pop, which the bar gave me as they didn’t have enough to serve it in the larger measure that I had asked for. I thought this was very generous, as they could have charged me for a smaller beer.

Either my regular readers might be able to guess where this is from the decor….

The Cukierni Sowa outlet in Katowice. And I’ve realised that I’ve forgotten, yet again, to go to their London outlet, despite my being in Ealing a few weeks ago. I will remember one day.

I thought I’d go to a beer shop, Bierland, which was highly recommended, and it was just slightly difficult to find in a housing estate, but the welcome was immediate and friendly. They had a couple of fridges, alongside this substantial collection of beers across numerous styles.

The friendly guy at the bar decided he wasn’t sure if my carrier bag from Lidl would be strong enough, so he gave me this instead for free.

That was a larger supply of beers that I had intended to get, but they were all rather delicious and decadent. Actually, I did well to manage to limit myself to these, there were more Funky Fluid beers that I could shake a stick at (not recommended with glass bottles actually) and numerous other Polish brewers.

Mr Fox Pub & Resto, where the service was once again impeccable and welcoming. I think the manager was surprised I wanted to sit inside in the air conditioned cold interior, rather where others were outside, but I had been overheated enough already in the Katowice sun.

It’s more common in Poland than the UK to be offered sauce with pizzas, but I think this should be made the law. It makes things much better, although the pizza was already delicious anyway.

The beer and pizza was £6, an indication of the value for money that is available across Poland. I might have mentioned before, I very much like Poland…..

There seems little point me mentioning again the friendly service in Poland as it’s nearly always brilliant, and this was no exception at Browariat Craft Beer Zone. There’s a music theme and they play from vinyl records to add to the character of the venue, although I was there for the range of beer which was exceptional and a little different as well, they’ve sourced some interesting beers from brewers across Europe.

The Coffee Stout from Pivovar Mazak, a Czech brewer.

Sometimes I order from bottles and am slightly disappointed when they pour the drink and chuck the bottle away. This is what I consider poor bar(wo)manship, the empty bottle should be presented with the glass, as it was here. The label was also presented to me facing forwards, an under-rated skill, I do note when the bar server presents the logo on the glass facing towards me. I’d better add that I don’t get annoyed if they don’t, it’s just a touch of professionalism that I do note. Unusually in craft beer terms (although the situation is getting better), this is a French beer and it’s from the interestingly named Piggy Brewing Company, with the beer being called Monstruous Fat Pig Stout Mexican Cake Edition, and very decadent it was too.

That selection will do for now, the prices in Katowice are lower than in other parts of Poland, so there are numerous restaurants, cafes and bars offering some excellent quality for very reasonable prices.

July 2, 2022
Tuesday – Tuesday : Katowice Week (Give Walls a Chance)

Another one of my random posts, I just thought that the wording here was a little different. It’s handy when Poles write graffiti in English, it gives me a chance to understand it.

There are some pockets of Katowice where buildings aren’t in great shape, and I include this here as the graffiti in the first photo is just visible on the extreme right of this photo. This building caused some excitement during the week when some bits fell off it (which I think everyone agrees isn’t ideal), with the fire brigade coming out to deal with the situation. I assume it was made safe, although the only evidence of their work is the taped off section.

Whilst I’m writing of graffiti and the like, there were no shortage of anti-Putin and anti-Russian messages across the city.

And some more street art, this is Wojciech Korfanty (1873-1939), briefly the Deputy Prime Minister of Poland during late 1923. He was heavily involved in the movement to get the area to become part of Poland and is a post-war national hero of the country.

July 2, 2022
Tuesday – Tuesday : Katowice Week (Former Katowice Railway Station)

This is Katowice’s lovely new glass fronted railway station, in the same building as the substantial shopping centre Galerią Katowicką, all very modern and integrated. It’s meant a much better frontage, ticket selling facilities and the like, although the platform section hasn’t much changed. A new station had opened in 1972, but it wasn’t a very impressive building and it was demolished to be replaced with the current one. Fortunately, the 1972 railway station hadn’t been constructed on the site of the earlier nineteenth century building, which meant that the old structures were preserved.

For anyone interested in the old railway station, there’s an article at https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stary_dworzec_kolejowy_w_Katowicach. But, this is what one wing looks like now, feeling rather abandoned, originally constructed in the 1850s although much modified since then.

The area in front of the former railway station is looking much better, with seating and this area has a fountain installed where previously there was just a temporary car park. The building jutting out in the middle is the former entrance to the railway station.

At least this stretch of the building has been kept and I’m sure it’ll be modernised and restored soon.

Inside the derelict building. I mostly took a photo of this just to see how the site develops over the next few years.

July 2, 2022
Tuesday : Leaving Katowice for Warsaw

After a relaxing and productive week in Katowice, it was a late morning intercity train back to Warsaw, costing around £10. As a summary of Katowice, I’d merrily recommend it as a destination and the budget airlines service it well from many cities around Europe. A former manufacturing area, it’s modernising and has plenty now for tourists to do and plenty of craft beer options. Not that craft beer options are the be all and end all of choosing destinations, but it should obviously be a factor….

I’m always a little nervous when two trains are departing at the same time, but mine was the 10:53 to Gdynia. Not the 10:53 to Krakow.

The platforms haven’t been much modernised in terms of facilities, as I made reference to in another post. But, everything was clean and organised and there were sufficient benches available.

Then the excitement starts, the train is showing as being delayed in Austria, as it was coming from Vienna. Obviously, the Polish bit of the journey was all fine, but it turned in around twenty minutes late. It was also evidently going to be a busy train given the number of people waiting for the service.

I can confirm it’s a relief to me when a train turns up when the app I was using it said that it would. I always leave lots of spare time in any travelling schedule, as I like to worry about things and always assume they’ll happen (my friend Liam would knock out all those frivolous gaps if he was arranging my travel, but he isn’t so I needn’t concern myself about that). Although I did think that this delay would be eating into my drinking time.

The train came in back to front, so I was standing at the wrong end of the platform. I muttered silently and traipsed to the other end of the platform and after getting to my carriage I was asked by a young Polish women to help her with getting her luggage on the train. The damn bag must have weighed about 30kgs, but I had to pretend that it was easy for me to manage lugging up the steps onto the train. The older Polish intercity trains aren’t very good for those with disabilities (although I think there are alternatives) and not are they easy to lift bloody heavy luggage up to. It was quite busy, and my reserved table seat had three of us, so this photo is after they left at the stop before me in Warsaw. The train made up the lost time, the guard was helpful and the power worked, all rather lovely.

A photo of the railway civil engineering project that is taking place just outside of Warsaw, I have to keep my content exciting for my friend Liam.

The whole of Warsaw to choose from, but of course, I had to go back to Hoppiness. This is the delectable Gelato : Orange Creamsicle from Funky Fluid, an ice cream sour packed with oranges from Portugal. I suspect this must have counted for three of my five a day, with the burger being as delicious as ever and there’s a tomato and lettuce in it, so that’s the other two of my five a day. I was careful not to impale any part of myself on the stick coming out of the burger.

I might have taken a photo of this before (I forget….) but it’s a pedestrian crossing which comes from all angles. Cars are very good at stopping for pedestrians at this junction, and indeed across Poland, but it’s an odd arrangement. The white hatching in the centre is part of the pedestrian crossing and it cuts across to all three pavements.

I always like looking at the Pomnik Chwała Saperom, or Glory to Sappers Memorial. It’s visible at the far end of this park, Park Sapera, which is currently being renovated and improved. Everything in Warsaw seems to have been either recently improved or redeveloped, part of why I very much like this city. Things seem to work and are constantly getting better in the city, which isn’t the case in other places that I’ve visited.

A monument in the park which I haven’t noticed before (I mean I haven’t noticed the monument, not the entire park), although there are literally thousands of memorials, tablets and plaques to the bravery of Poles in the Second World War, so I imagine I’ll still be noticing new ones for many years to come. This one is dedicated to the “Kryska” Home Army Grouping, although that included men from other European countries, who died during the Warsaw Uprising.

The Glory to Sappers Memorial I’ve written about before.

But this is the first time I’ve noticed there’s a list of names to the side of the memorial. Another list of the brave men who died in World War Two, so much of a generation wiped out by the hatred of a few national leaders who caused the conflict. These lists will be in Ukrainian cities in a few years, marking the bravery of those who lost their lives fighting for their nation and the right to be free.

And back again to the Ibis Budget in Warsaw for my final night in the city, probably for some months. I’ve written about this hotel before, so won’t bore my limited readership with further irrelevant prose…

I love the view over the Vistula and there’s the national stadium visible on the other side of the river. Very peaceful.

July 2, 2022
Books about Hertfordshire

BOOKS ABOUT HERTFORDSHIRE

The Origins of Hertfordshire by Tom Williamson is a large 270 page book which covers the history of the county from late prehistoric times to the thirteenth century. There’s lots of topographical history of the county, a subject not always well covered by books looking at this period of the county’s history. Primarily text based, as the period covered inevitably means that there is limited documentary evidence, there are though a number of maps. The book’s ISBN is 9781905313952.

The Buildings of England – Hertfordshire book is the Bible of building archaeology in England, initially edited by the astute Nikolaus Pevsner, with research support from Bridget Cherry. The book has been recently updated by James Bettley and is 720 pages full of tightly written text about the buildings of Hertfordshire, in tremendous detail. There are many perambulations around the county’s towns, covering the main buildings of note. Pevsner’s quite cutting remarks about some buildings have remained in the book and there are some initial chapters about the general history of the county. The book’s ISBN is 9780300223903.

The Watford to St. Albans Branch by SC Jenkins is part of the Locomotion Papers from the Oakwood Press. It’s a 90 page book which has an in-depth history of the line, with plenty of photos of stations, engines and also numerous older timetables and maps. There’s a great deal of clarity to the writing and plenty of history, despite this being a relatively short branch line. The book’s ISBN is 0853613990.

Branch Lines Around Hertford and Hatfield to Broxbourne, St. Albans and Buntingford by Vic Mitchell and Keith Smith was published by Middleton Press in 2009. There are around 100 pages in the book, with Middleton being one of the prolific publishers of titles about the railway network. This title covers the evolution of the electrified branch line to Hertford East, along with the country branch to Buntingford. There’s not a substantial amount of supporting text, but the photos are interesting to look at, especially given how much has changed over the decades. There are also two pages of timetables, from the 1860s to the 1950s. The book’s ISBN is 9781906008581.

The Origins of Hatfield Street Names compiled by Frank J Cox is a 16 page book which details how all of the streets in the town of Hatfield acquired their names. The book was published by Hatfield This Century, now the Hatfield Local History Society. The reasons for the name of Fiddle Bridge Lane are intriguing, it’s likely linked to the story of a merry fiddler from the medieval period.

Hertfordshire Churches and Other Places of Worship by Jeffery W Whitelaw is 140 pages long and is something of a basic introduction to the historic religious buildings in the county. The book starts with a history of the local parish, with a chapter on the Cathedral and Abbey Church of St. Alban, with the book having an introduction by the Bishop. There’s then a section of post-conquest churches and monasteries up to the Reformation, then a chapter which covers the post-Reformation period. The next two chapters cover what to look for inside a church, then what to look for outside a church, along with a glossary of terms and then a gazetteer of the county’s churches. The book’s ISBN is 0948353856.

Hertfordshire Buses by John Law is a 96 page book published by Amberley which has tens of photos of older coaches from the 1930s to today. Between the 1930s and the 1960s the buses were operated by London Transport, before being handed to the National Bus Company in 1969. Bus deregulation in the 1980s led by Margaret Thatcher saw it split into numerous smaller companies. There’s plenty of supporting text under each photo and it’s a well-written title. The book’s ISBN is 9781445669717.

Hatfield and Its People – Part 5 : Roads and Railways was published in 1960 and was written by members of the Hatfield Branch of the Workers’ Educational Association. It’s a comprehensive 32 page book about primarily the evolution of the road system and the railways.

Hatfield and Its People – Part 8 : Schools was published in 1962 and was written by members of the Hatfield Branch of the Workers’ Educational Association. It’s a short 32 page book which is nearly entirely about the Countess Anne foundation. The initial text of the book apologises about the omission about most other schools in the area, although they are very briefly listed. Unfortunately, the title of the book is perhaps a little misleading given how it is so focused on one institution, but it does cover this subject with some clarity.

Hatfield and Its People – Part 11A : Families and Trades was published in 1964 and was written by members of the Hatfield Branch of the Workers’ Educational Association. It’s a 46 page book is inevitably a little niche given the broad subject being covered, which is the story of Hatfield’s trade and business families.

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A Walk Around Old Hatfield by Gladys Brown is a short pamphlet which acts as an introduction to the town’s history. The author notes that there’s little new to long-term residents of Hatfield, but it is a useful history for those wanting to walk around and discover the important heritage elements. Brown was a former teacher and also a founder member of Hatfield This Century (later known as Hatfield Local History Society).

Portrait of Hertfordshire by Brian J Bailey is 210 pages long and was originally published in 1978 by Robert Hale. It’s a conversational book in tone which makes it very readable, with the introduction noting that it has more village greens than any other county, and it was noted in the epilogue how important agriculture remained to the people of Hertfordshire. The author noted that he hoped that didn’t change, otherwise “the next chapter in the county’s story may well be the way to oblivion”.

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Glebe Cottages Hatfield by Joy Emerton is a short pamphlet published by Frank J Cox for Hatfield Local History Society. It tells the story of the first 100 years of Glebe Cottages, from 1892 until 1992, including the names of the block residents and several photos.

A Caring County? Social Welfare in Hertfordshire from 1600 edited by Steven King and Gillian Gear. This 350 page book was published the University of Hertfordshire Press and as an academic rigour to it, but it’s still a readable book and an intriguing question asked throughout is how has Hertfordshire dealt with the social needs of its residents over the centuries? The authors conclude that in many ways that the county has proved to be caring and nimble in its dealings with those needing assistance. The book’s ISBN is 9781909291126.

Archaeology in Hertfordshire Recent Research – A Festschrift for Tony Rook edited by Kris Lockyear is a large 350 page book which covers the recent research that has taken place regarding the archaeological history of the county. The author Kris Lockyear is a senior lecturer at the Institute of Archaeology at UCL and the director of the Welwyn Archaeological Society. The reference to Tony Rook is because he was the founder of the Welwyn Archaeological Society and is very much a niche book, but essential reading though for those wanting a broad understanding of the different investigations which have taken place. The book’s ISBN is 9781909291423.

Hertfordshire Soldiers of the Great War by Paul Johnson and Dan Hill is 280 pages long and is written by two military historians. Always well researched and with immense detail, there’s a chapter covering each year of the war, along with an extra section on the 1920s and another on the Home Front. There are numerous illustrations throughout, with this being a comprehensive introduction to what soldiers from the county faced during the First World War. The book’s ISBN is 1473893933.

A Pilgrimage in Hertfordshire by HM Alderman was originally published in 1931 as a perambulation around the county, covering many of the landmarks in Hertfordshire. There are plenty of pen drawings of various historic locations and the book was republished in the 1990s to make it more accessible. The republished book’s ISBN is 1871199336.

Biplanes to Rockets – 48 Years in Aviation by Ben French is a book about the recollections of a De Havilland Ground Engineer. French worked for the company between January 1935 and October 1983 and the book was originally written for his family, but then was published so that a wider audience can understand more about not just his own career, but also the heritage and history of the company. The book’s ISBN is 9781526205384.

July 1, 2022
Towns in Hertfordshire

Some of the larger settlements in Hertfordshire and a brief history of each.

Borehamwood

Borehamwood is a town in Hertfordshire, England. It has a history that dates back to the medieval period, and its name is thought to derive from the “boreham wood” that was once located there.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Borehamwood was a small rural village. However, with the growth of London, the town underwent significant development in the 20th century, particularly during the interwar period, and became a suburban town. The film and television industries also established themselves in the town, with Elstree Studios located in Borehamwood.

Today, Borehamwood is a vibrant and bustling town with a diverse community, good transport links, and a variety of shops, restaurants, and other amenities. Despite its suburban character, it still retains some green spaces, including a number of parks and nature reserves, which provide a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the town.

Bushey

Bushey is a town located in the county of Hertfordshire, England. The town has a history that dates back to the medieval period, with records of its existence going back to the 11th century. During the medieval period, Bushey was a small agricultural village, with its primary industry being farming.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, Bushey underwent significant growth and development, becoming a suburban town with a thriving community and several industries. The town was particularly known for its hat-making industry, which was one of the largest in the country at the time.

Today, Bushey is a vibrant and dynamic town with a diverse community, good transport links, and a variety of shops, restaurants, and other amenities. Despite its suburban character, it still retains some green spaces, including parks and nature reserves, which provide a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the town.

Cheshunt

Cheshunt is a town in the Broxbourne borough of Hertfordshire, England, located on the River Lea. Its history dates back to the Roman period, when it was known as Cestrehunt, and was a major settlement along the Roman road that linked London to Colchester. During the Norman conquest, Cheshunt was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and was granted to the Bishop of London.

In the Middle Ages, Cheshunt was a market town and became an important centre for agriculture and brickmaking in the 19th century. The town was connected to London by the railway in 1840, leading to further growth and development. During World War II, Cheshunt suffered significant damage from German bombing, but was rebuilt after the war.

In the mid-20th century, Cheshunt saw significant growth with the arrival of major companies, such as Tesco and Sony, setting up their headquarters in the town. This led to an influx of residents and a expansion of the town’s residential and commercial areas. Today, Cheshunt is a suburban town with a mix of residential, commercial, and industrial areas and is known for its parks, lakes, and sports facilities.

Harpenden

Harpenden is a town in the St Albans district of Hertfordshire, England. It has a long history, with evidence of human habitation dating back to the Neolithic period. In the Middle Ages, Harpenden was a small agricultural village and remained so until the late 19th century, when it began to grow as a commuter town for London. The arrival of the railway in 1868 and the development of the town’s infrastructure led to a significant increase in population.

In the early 20th century, Harpenden continued to grow as a popular residential area and became a hub for the surrounding rural communities. The town saw a significant expansion in the interwar period, with the development of many new homes and the construction of several new schools and community facilities.

Today, Harpenden is a thriving town with a population of over 30,000. It is known for its historic architecture, parks and open spaces, and its high-quality shopping and dining options. The town is also home to several sporting clubs, a golf club, and a theatre, and is a popular destination for tourists and visitors.

Hatfield

Hatfield is a town in Hertfordshire, England, with a history dating back to the Roman period. The town was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and was the site of a royal palace in the Middle Ages, which was used by several monarchs, including King Henry VIII. In the 16th century, the palace was demolished and replaced by Hatfield House, which remains an important landmark in the town today.

During the Industrial Revolution, Hatfield grew as a centre for industry and transportation, with the arrival of the railway in the 19th century. The town was also home to several major aircraft and defence companies, including De Havilland and British Aerospace, which played a major role in the development of the aviation industry.

In the 20th century, Hatfield saw significant growth and development, with the construction of many new homes and the expansion of the town’s commercial and industrial areas. Today, Hatfield is a thriving suburban town with a mix of residential, commercial, and industrial areas, and is known for its parks, lakes, and sports facilities. The town is also home to the University of Hertfordshire, which was established in the mid-20th century and has grown to become one of the largest universities in the UK.

Hemel Hempstead

Hemel Hempstead is a town in Hertfordshire, England. It has a long history, with evidence of human habitation dating back to the Roman period. The town was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and was a small agricultural village for much of its history.

During the Industrial Revolution, Hemel Hempstead began to grow as a centre for industry and transportation, with the arrival of the railway in the 19th century. The town was also home to several major paper mills and printing works, which helped to drive its economic growth.

In the mid-20th century, Hemel Hempstead underwent significant expansion as a result of the government’s New Towns program, which aimed to alleviate overcrowding in London and other major cities. The town was designated as a New Town in 1947 and saw rapid growth, with the construction of many new homes, schools, and community facilities.

Today, Hemel Hempstead is a thriving suburban town with a population of over 90,000. It is known for its parks, lakes, and sports facilities, and is a popular destination for tourists and visitors. The town is also home to several large employers, including Marlowes Shopping Centre, which is one of the largest shopping centres in the UK.

Hertford

Hertford is the county town of Hertfordshire, England and has a long history, with evidence of human habitation dating back to the Roman period. The town was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and was a market town and an important centre for agriculture in the Middle Ages.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, Hertford was a centre for the wool trade and became known for its production of cloth and hats. The town was also a centre for the brewing industry, with several breweries established in the 17th and 18th centuries.

In the 19th century, Hertford saw significant growth as a result of the arrival of the railway and the expansion of the town’s infrastructure. This led to the development of new homes, schools, and community facilities, as well as a growth in industry and commerce.

Today, Hertford is a thriving town with a population of over 26,000. It is known for its historic architecture, parks and open spaces, and its high-quality shopping and dining options. The town is also a popular destination for tourists and visitors, and is home to several sporting clubs, a theatre, and several museums and galleries.

Hoddesdon

Hoddesdon is a town in the Broxbourne borough of Hertfordshire, England. It has a long history, with evidence of human habitation dating back to the Roman period. In the Middle Ages, Hoddesdon was a small agricultural village and remained so until the late 19th century, when it began to grow as a result of the expansion of the railway network.

In the early 20th century, Hoddesdon continued to grow as a popular residential area for workers in London, and saw the development of several new homes and community facilities. During World War II, the town was badly affected by bombing, with many homes and businesses damaged or destroyed.

After the war, Hoddesdon underwent significant redevelopment, with the construction of many new homes and the expansion of the town’s commercial and industrial areas. Today, Hoddesdon is a thriving town with a population of over 20,000. It is known for its parks, lakes, and sports facilities, and is a popular destination for tourists and visitors. The town is also home to several large employers, including pharmaceutical and medical technology companies.

Letchworth

Letchworth is a town in Hertfordshire, England. It is one of the first garden cities in the world and was founded in 1903 as a response to the growing problems of overcrowding and poor living conditions in urban areas. The garden city movement aimed to create a new type of urban settlement, one that was based on the principles of town planning and incorporated large areas of green space and parks.

Letchworth was designed as a planned town, with a grid-like street layout and a mix of residential, commercial, and industrial areas. The town was also designed to be self-sufficient, with its own water and sewage systems, electricity generation facilities, and parks and open spaces. In the years following its founding, Letchworth grew rapidly, attracting residents from London and other urban areas. The town was also an important centre for industry, with several major companies setting up operations there.

Today, Letchworth is a thriving town with a population of over 35,000. It is known for its parks and open spaces, and its distinctive architecture, which combines elements of Arts and Crafts style with Art Deco.

Rickmansworth

Rickmansworth is a town in the Three Rivers district of Hertfordshire, England. It has a long history, with evidence of human habitation dating back to the Roman period. In the Middle Ages, Rickmansworth was a small agricultural village and remained so until the late 19th century, when it began to grow as a result of the expansion of the railway network.

In the early 20th century, Rickmansworth continued to grow as a popular residential area for workers in London, and saw the development of several new homes and community facilities. During World War II, the town was badly affected by bombing, with many homes and businesses damaged or destroyed.

After the war, Rickmansworth underwent significant redevelopment, with the construction of many new homes and the expansion of the town’s commercial and industrial areas. Today, Rickmansworth is a thriving town with a population of over 15,000. It is known for its parks, lakes, and sports facilities, and is a popular destination for tourists and visitors. The town is also home to several large employers, including pharmaceutical and medical technology companies.

St Albans

St Albans is a city in Hertfordshire, England with a rich and diverse history. The city was originally called Verulamium and was a major Roman settlement and a centre of commerce and industry in the Roman province of Britannia. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Verulamium declined, but the town remained an important centre for agriculture and trade in the Middle Ages.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, St Albans became a centre for the cloth trade and was known for its production of fine cloth. The city was also an important centre for religion and was the site of several significant events in English church history, including the trial of St Alban, England’s first Christian martyr, and the birth of the English Reformation.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, St Albans grew rapidly as a result of the expansion of the railway network and the growth of London, and became a popular residential area for workers in the capital. Today, St Albans is a thriving city with a population of over 140,000. It is known for its rich history and cultural heritage, its parks and open spaces, and its high-quality shopping and dining options. The city is also home to several museums, theatres, and other cultural attractions, and is a popular destination for tourists and visitors.

Stevenage

Stevenage is a town in Hertfordshire, England. It is one of the country’s first new towns and was established in the mid-20th century as part of the UK government’s response to the growing problems of overcrowding and poor living conditions in urban areas.

The concept of the new town was to create a planned community with a mix of residential, commercial, and industrial areas, and to provide high-quality housing and public facilities for residents. Stevenage was designed as a self-contained town, with its own schools, shops, and public transport, and with plenty of green spaces and parks. In the years following its establishment, Stevenage grew rapidly, attracting residents from London and other urban areas. The town was also an important centre for industry, with several major companies setting up operations there.

Today, Stevenage is a thriving town with a population of over 85,000. It is known for its parks and open spaces, and its distinctive architecture, which combines elements of modernist and brutalist design.

Tring

Tring is a small market town in Hertfordshire, England, with a long and fascinating history. Archaeological evidence suggests that the area has been inhabited for thousands of years, and there are several historic sites in and around the town, including an Iron Age hill fort and a Roman settlement.

In the Middle Ages, Tring was a small agricultural village and was known for its wool trade. During the Tudor period, the town grew and prospered, and several fine buildings were constructed, including Tring Manor, which still stands today.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, Tring continued to grow and expand, and became a popular residential area for workers in London. The town was also a centre for industry, with several major companies setting up operations there.

Today, Tring is a thriving market town with a population of over 11,000. It is known for its historic buildings, its parks and open spaces, and its high-quality shopping and dining options.

Watford

Watford is a large town in Hertfordshire, England with a rich and diverse history. Archaeological evidence suggests that the area has been inhabited for thousands of years, and there are several historic sites in and around the town, including an Iron Age hill fort and a Roman settlement.

In the Middle Ages, Watford was a small agricultural village and remained so until the 19th century, when it began to grow as a result of the expansion of the railway network. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Watford became a popular residential area for workers in London, and saw the development of several new homes and community facilities.

During the 20th century, Watford continued to grow and expand, and became a major centre for industry and commerce. The town was home to several large companies, including printing and publishing firms, and was an important centre for the manufacture of paper, textiles, and other products.

Ware

Ware is a market town in Hertfordshire, England with a history that dates back to the Roman period. The town grew around a Roman settlement, which was established in the 1st century AD and became an important centre for trade and commerce.

In the Middle Ages, Ware became a prosperous market town and was known for its wool trade. During the Tudor period, the town grew and prospered, and several fine buildings were constructed, including several historic inns and taverns.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, Ware continued to grow and expand, and became a popular residential area for workers in London. The town was also a centre for industry, with several major companies setting up operations there.

July 1, 2022
Tuesday – Tuesday : Katowice Week (Bytom)

Without giving a long lecture about the history of Poland, the area around Katowice is part of Upper Silesia. Before the First World War, the land was mostly part of Prussia, but that conflict changed everything for this region. The new independent Poland was created in 1918, the Second Polish Republic, and the land borders needed to be defined. This was a tricky situation in Upper Silesia, some people considered themselves as German and some considered themselves as Polish, and, of course, the dividing line was not clear.

The League of Nations were trying to resolve the situation when they lost control and the local Poles rose up in anger on three occasions. In the end, there was only one option, which was to have a vote of the people who lived there, asking do you want to be in Poland or Germany? And the results didn’t provide the clarity that the allied authorities might have hoped for. The town of Katowice voted strongly to be German, but the residents around it wanted to be Polish, with a similar situation in Bytom. Bytom’s division was as clear as mud, 73,567 voted to be German, whilst 73,122 wanted to be Polish.

Katowice became Polish because of the wider region, and they built a huge new Parliament building there which was for a long time the largest building in Poland. Bytom though was given to Germany, because they were able to give some of the territory around it to Poland and the city itself had wanted to become German. Looking back, I don’t know if a further eruption of these borders was inevitable, but of course Hitler’s vision for Europe blew the arrangements apart. In 1939, his armies walked into Poland and he claimed Silesia was once permanently reunited as part of Germany.

Following the end of the Second World War, the then border town of Bytom was given to Poland and it’s no longer anywhere near the German border. I mention all this as the city has had a different twentieth century compared to Katowice, given it was under German control for over two decades.

The legacy is still visible, this shopfront still has the pre-war signage from when the city was in Germany. I found this exposed sign fascinating, it does bring the past to life.

Bytom was not treated well under the communist occupied period following the Second World War, it became a dirty, polluted and heavily industralised area, although the seven coal mines provided a lot of work. Its transformation has been dramatic over the last couple of decades, but there’s plenty to do, as is visible with buildings such as this which are next to the main market square.

There were literally tens of large buildings in the central area which are derelict, with no obvious signs that they’re going to be redeveloped any time soon.

Although I’ve jumped a little ahead with this story, the region has excellent transport links, this is the tram I photographed in Katowice which took me straight to Bytom. A day pass to use the entire network of trams in the region, which is one of the largest networks in Europe, costs under £2.

It wasn’t the busiest tram service that I’ve ever been on. And my first impressions of Bytom weren’t great, the tram swept through derelict areas and then when I got off the tram there was a drunk man urinating in the little park area. It’s wrong to judge any location by an initial impression like that, but on this occasion, there didn’t feel the air of confidence that is evident in nearby Katowice.

Excuse my mistranslation, but this means something like “women know what they are doing”.

The Chopin monument in front of the opera house and I don’t know when this was put here, but I’m confident it was after the Second World War given his importance to the Polish nation.

Another derelict building, this one feels very Prussian in design.

All photos of the main market square, which is huge and has had some work to improve its look, although some buildings looking out onto it are derelict. Some structures are grand Prussian designs, others are more utilitarian post-war structures which were almost just thrown up.

The sleeping lion, which is one of the city’s iconic monuments. It dates from 1873 when it was erected on a plinth to mark those from the local area who lost their lives in the Franco-Prussian War. The plinth was destroyed during the Second World War and somehow the lion was moved to Warsaw Zoo where he sat outside guarding the entrance. In 2008, he was returned to Bytom and there are some photos of the lion on the plinth at https://instytutkorfantego.pl/blog/lew-spiacy-historia-jednego-odlewu/.

The catholic Church of St. Mary’s.

Bytom had a feeling that it was on the up, although there’s quite a lot of up still to go. There isn’t the vibrancy in terms of the number of restaurants, cafes and bars, but there’s an evident cultural base to the city with the opera house and other similar institutions.

One sign of wealth coming into a city is the opening of a large shopping centre and Bytom has one of those with an interesting sculpture.

I went to have a look at the sculpture.

They’ve dug one of the main routes up and are just working around the pedestrians.

I had to pop into the city’s outlet of Cukiernia Sowa.

Delicious. That hot chocolate is thick, decadent and bloody lovely.

It had an excellent view of Holy Trinity Church as well throughout the window.

In English, “I’m smiling at you”.

This is Plac Grunwaldzki and that’s the synagogue on the right hand side. It was built in 1869 on the site of a previous synagogue but was destroyed during Kristallnacht on 9 November 1938. This happened just two days after Joseph Goebbels had visited the city calling for hate to be shown to the Jews, with the local Jewish community being forced to watch the destruction of their synagogue. At the time, I imagine the community must have wished they were the other side of the border in Poland, although of course a year later the Germans had marched into Katowice and destroyed the synagogue there as well.

What is haunting is standing in front of the sign with the photo on, seeing that everything is still there other than the synagogue.

A block of apartment buildings has been built on part of the site now, but this plaque was recently put here to reminder people of the history. They did some archaeological work on the site recently, to pin down the exact dimensions of the synagogue and see what evidence could be found of the older structure.

And getting the tram back out, which wasn’t difficult given the excellent public transport system that I’ve already mentioned. Bytom really was an interesting place, it would have been a vibrant Prussian city at the beginning of the twentieth century, with new buildings being constructed and many in the area were becoming wealthy. I can imagine the optimism at that point, which all fell apart during the First World War, then the uncertainty in the years after that conflict. The Germans tried to make their border town wealthy during the inter-war period, but that prosperity collapsed during the Second World War.

The remaining German population was mostly moved out after the Second World War, a mass movement of people which is often overlooked in history, with the Polish population displaced from the eastern side of the country often being moved here. It meant a new city, but the post-war period wasn’t kind to Bytom with the lack of investment. The population started to move away in the 1980s and 1990s, with a return to prosperity only returning relatively recently and there’s still a long way to go. Bearing in mind that the city had a population of 240,000 in 1989 and it’s now 170,000, the size of the challenge is evident.

I’m not sure of the city’s future, it needs more people to move there to see a need to renovate and restore the derelict buildings. It’s not going to be a big tourist attraction, as even the nearby Katowice is often overlooked by visitors to Poland, so it’ll have to find its own economic niche. I get the impression that if I come back to Bytom in 25 years, it’ll be unrecogisable and will feel like a much more modern and vibrant city.

June 30, 2022
Monday : Siedlce to Mokotów Holiday Inn Express via Warsaw Bars

Continuing this story of a soggy Siedlce railway station…. The railway station was constructed in 1866 and, to be honest, it probably needs a bit of modernisation in the way that similar locations are being transformed across Poland. The original buildings were burnt down before the Second World, replaced with rather functional post-war structures and then modernised a bit for when the Pope visited. Handy arrangement that, get a new railway station by the Pope visiting, perhaps he could pop to a few places in the UK that I think need one.

Same sort of train as I got to get to Siedlce, operated by Koleje Mazowieckie. On time again, very reliable.

And not at all busy. Spotlessly clean again.

Back into Warsaw Śródmieście railway station, which always feels Russian to me.

I mentioned in a previous post that there’s only one track here and the railway carriages can be accessed from either side, it’s a bit more obvious in this photo.

I hadn’t been to Hoppiness in Warsaw on this trip, so I treated myself to a decadent and suitably rich beer, the Fruit Machine from Browar Monsters, including passion fruit, white guava, pineapple and vanilla. Very healthy and nutritious.

I couldn’t resist a little trip to Cukiernia Sowa either, one of my favourite Polish chains that I frequently mentioned. I can’t claim great entertainment of new places to write about here, since this is another repeat visit, but quality deserves checking on again and again.

The Siedlce rain reached Warsaw and so I panicked and rushed into a pub for safety. I sat with this beer in PINTA for over an hour, not because it was annoying me somehow, but because it was so rich that it deserved to be savoured slowly. Oh, and it was still raining outside, so I wasn’t going anywhere. And what a beautiful beer, another from PINTA themselves, as this is their taproom, and I had several in this range of imperial stouts at the Warsaw Beer Festival a few months back. This beer was no less delightful, being smooth, rich, velvety, coconuty and a perfect drink for when it’s wet outside. Or indeed when it’s dry outside. That reminds me, I must go back to the Warsaw Beer Festival next year.

There’s the outside of PINTA when it’s not pouring down with rain.

Another tram journey as I was heading towards a hotel I had never stayed in before, the Mokotów Holiday Inn Express.

I may have mentioned before, indeed on several occasions, that I’d like to see more tram services in the UK. They’re much better than buses, they’re easier to board and usually quicker.

I popped to Lidl for two things and they have self-service checkouts, which I’m not sure whether or not is a thing in the UK ones. Anyway, I was third in the queue, and the woman in front of me said to go ahead of her as she had about fifteen things, then so did the woman in front and then the woman in front of her, so I didn’t have to wait very long. I kept trying to say no, as I wasn’t in a rush and hate queue jumping, but I admire the Polish style about these things. It’s a warm feeling about humanity in general. Anyway, there’s a nice bridge to cross the road with.

And the view from above the road, with the tram lines sweeping through. A thoroughly modern city, but I’ve mentioned that about Warsaw before.

My abode for the night, the Holiday Inn Express.

This is one of the best rooms I’ve had in a Holiday Inn Express, not least because the air conditioning worked and the windows opened. It was rather lovely listening to trams clanking on by, I like that sort of street noise, but I could have shut the windows if I didn’t want to hear it. The room was clean, the staff member at reception was friendly, I very much liked the whole arrangement. Unlike the UK, where the night-time street sounds are added to by about 15 groups of drunk groups shouting and smashing things, Poland doesn’t have anywhere near the same problem.

Looking back the other way, I quite like that desk arrangement, it’s a well thought out room, I’d happily stay here again. It was good to be back in Warsaw for one night, but I don’t think anyone who reads this blog would have expected me to write anything different. There was a new week ahead and I was on the move to Katowice.

June 28, 2022