Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Scotland

  • Abellio ScotRail – Glasgow Central to Paisley Canal (Paisley Canal Line)

    Abellio ScotRail – Glasgow Central to Paisley Canal (Paisley Canal Line)

    The Paisley Canal railway line is a little bit odd, as services were reduced in the 1960s and 1970s, before it was finally closed down in 1983. Soon after closure and the demolition of key structures along the route, there was a new plan to re-open it again, with the line coming back into service in July 1990, even though there’s another line which goes from Glasgow to Paisley. Although I think it’s marvellous for a rail line to be brought back into usage, I’m surprised that this one was saved.

    This map from the 1890s shows how strange this rail line is (clicking on the map makes it a little larger). The rail line at the top is beautifully straight (well, other than the curve, but my point is hopefully clear) whereas this canal line to the south of it is all over the show with its little curves and bends. That’s because they built the line on top of the former canal (hence the name), so it wasn’t really ideal in very many ways.

    This is the departure boards at Glasgow Central railway station and this is where one of the first differences with the new Paisley Canal line becomes evident.

    The railway line used to start at St. Enoch station, but that was knocked down in 1975. As can be seen above, they’ve now built a shopping on that site, so services have been to Glasgow Central railway station.

    The train was departing from platform 12, as observant readers might notice.

    I had to look this up (I’m not that much of a train geek), but this is a Class 380 train, built in Germany around ten years ago, operated by Abellio ScotRail.

    The train wasn’t overly busy and was suitably clean throughout.

    I was slightly surprised to see power points.

    Some of the stations had to be reconstructed, but in many places only one platform was put back.

    Previously operated by diesel locomotives, the line has now also been electrified, with the work being completed in 2012.

    There was a platform there once….

    And here’s the end of the line, Paisley Canal railway station. It didn’t always end here, it used to carry on to Kilmacolm and there are apparently vague plans put forwards to restoring it all the way.

    This plaque was unveiled by the local MP, who at the time was Douglas Alexander who was also the Secretary of State for International Development. To be precise, he had been given that Cabinet the day before he unveiled this plaque, which likely wasn’t ideal timing. It notes that the work on the Ardrossan Canal was completed in 1811, being converted into a rail line in 1883.

    A plaque noting the reopening of the line, although I’d like to see one next to it showing the politicians who had decided to close it just a few years before.

    This is where the line used to continue, they’ve plonked some steps up to the bridge and made a big hole in that to give access to the road.

    Looking back to the end of the line.

  • Glasgow – Holiday Inn Express City Centre Theatreland

    Glasgow – Holiday Inn Express City Centre Theatreland

    After three nights in the Holiday Inn Express Riverside hotel, I moved for one night to the Theatreland hotel from the same chain. This was a rewards night, so I didn’t have to pay for it which was rather handy. For those who prefer a more decadent stay, there’s a separate Holiday Inn located next door, but I prefer the Express version as it’s cheaper….

    The staff at reception were helpful and personable, although there was some confusion about breakfast times in the morning given that it was a Bank Holiday. I also wasn’t offered a drinks voucher, I was just automatically given the extra rewards points, which I must admit was probably what I’d have gone for if given the choice. First impressions were all very positive from the welcome at reception though.

    My first reaction to this room was to be pre-annoyed and to check the IHG web-site to see if there were other rooms in the hotel that were available, as I hate rooms with interconnecting doors. They’re a disaster, primarily as noise between the rooms is just excessive. However, the hotel was apparently full and so I thought that I’d be stuck with the room. The room’s main door was also left unlocked and on the latch, although no-one had rushed in to pinch the coffees or anything.

    As it transpired, there were no issues as despite my barricading the interconnecting doors in case next door tried to get in, I’m not sure that the neighbouring room was ever given to another guest. There was a section of the door where it was possible to see into the next room, which isn’t really ever an acceptable situation for a hotel and if that room had of been occupied, then I’d have been merrily rating the hotel as 1/5 for an unacceptably low rate of privacy. However, it wasn’t, so I didn’t. But I still take the view, and I know from reading reviews over the years that my opinion is not uncommon, that connecting rooms are a real problem for privacy and noise issues, and so they simply shouldn’t both be let out to different customers.

    The breakfast room, with the hot drinks, pastries and yoghurts visible above.

    And the hot options, with the menu choices being exactly the same as the Holiday Inn Express that I had visited the day before.

    My first little selection and I picked out the most cooked bacon I could find, although they hadn’t frazzled it (which is how I like it, all crisped up) like the previous Holiday Inn Express. Anyway, all was well and the staff in the breakfast area were helpful and polite. I got there just before 07:00 on a bank holiday and it was already quite busy, although there were still plenty of seats.

    Overall, I was near to hating this hotel in the expectation of noise issues from guests being put into the neighbouring room with the interconnecting door. Since they didn’t, whether by design or good fortune, I have nothing bad to say about the stay, the hotel seemed perfectly well managed. The rooms seem to have been modernised relatively recently, although there was no air conditioning which slightly surprised me. However, there was a fan and the window opened, so this sufficed for me.

  • Glasgow – Pot Still

    Glasgow – Pot Still

    I’ll mention now that the photos in this post really aren’t ideal, the lighting conditions made for some slightly blurry images, but they’ll have to do. This is a Good Beer Guide listed pub which specialises in malt whisky and real ale, with a reputation from some people I spoke to for being the best pub in Glasgow.

    That back bar is far more exciting and interesting than this photo suggests, but the service here was on point throughout. Actually, I’d go further and say that it bordered on exceptional, with a real connection between the staff members and customers. The pub was full when I arrived so I asked if it was OK to sit at the bar, something which isn’t allowed at some places at the moment, which they were happy with.

    One customer came over to the barman and asked for the best whisky of the several hundred that they had. The barman gave what I consider to be the correct answer, and one which I heard given at the English Whisky Company in Norfolk, which is that the best one is the one that an individual likes the best. Everyone will give different answers. The customer asked the barman what was his favourite and he replied that he wasn’t going to give an answer, as he wanted to help the customer get the best whisky for them, not the best for the barman. The customer persisted, asking which whisky had won the most awards, with the barman replying that nearly every whisky now has won some sort of award. The barman did keep trying to ask what kind of whisky the customer wanted, but I’m not sure that they knew themselves. He ended up with a Glenfiddich.

    I’m with the barman on this. If someone asked me what the best beer was I’d be conscious that my answer is unlikely to be the ideal choice for anyone else. Although the answer here is the 8th Anniversary Pecan Cookie Stout from Westbrook Brewing Co, for which I’m already planning a trip to South Carolina, but that’s not entirely relevant here.

    The pub has become something of a destination for locals and visitors to Glasgow, as is evident from the fact that they do t-shirts and postcards.

    There’s a strong focus on whisky, but the bar doesn’t neglect beer with number real ales, craft beers and all manner of other quirky drinks. I opted for half a pint of the Born Blonde from Born in the Borders brewery and Goldihops from Kelburn Brewing Company, both well-kept.

    The pub has numerous pies, which looked rather lovely and if they had the chicken & leek one I’d have been sold on that, but they were offering haggis and similar options. I’m sure they’re rather delicious, but I decided it was a bit decadent for me in terms of the taste, although the prices were reasonable. Beer prices were also reasonable, there’s no attempt to take advantage of customers here. I messaged my friend Richard about this pub and I’m fairly sure that he would definitely have liked this place (I make no comment about Bells) and I can imagine that he would have had a decadent pie, a decadent whisky and then another decadent whisky.

    There are nearly no negative reviews for me to pull out, but I liked the owner’s robust response to someone who complained that the pub was busy.

    “We’re disappointed you didn’t enjoy your visit with us. However if, as your other reviews suggest, you enjoy quiet, relaxed and tranquil places, then perhaps a Glasgow city centre pub, any of them, on pay weekend isn’t an ideal fit. We’ve thought about issuing slippers to patrons at the front door to keep the noise down but it didn’t get much support from the regulars. Likewise plastic cups instead of our normal glassware to dampen the clinking.”

    Nicely done I think. But, the response to “5 stars if you are a whisky drinker but 1 star if drinking decent vodka and coke. Surly staff” is perhaps one of the best and most robust replies that I’ve seen and I love the “hello again” at the start from the landlord.

    “Hello again. After seeing your Yelp review I thought you might, as you did on the night, try and moan to anyone who’d listen. And so I find you here. I can’t help that you can’t believe me. Nothing I could have then, or could now, would convince you otherwise.

    You think I’ve swapped the “decent” Smirnoff ordered for another vodka on a busy Saturday night. I barely have time for a break on a Saturday night, let alone waste time giving you anything other than what you ordered.You think I was surly. If your business was being trashtalked by someone to anyone in earshot but you, you might be a touch peeved as well. Again, because you would rather run your mouth off to anyone at the bar you could arrest the attention of, rather than deal with the perceived problem with me directly, you were getting no more to drink in the pub in any eventuality.

    You are annoyed that you were not immediately furnished with a new drink for free. If we haven’t made a mistake, we’re not giving out free drinks. We’re not apologising for imagined wrongs. I’ve made an arse of things many times, apologised to numerous people. I probably will again in the future. That’s just the way things go sometimes.”

    As a pub, this was a delight and I’m grateful that the Good Beer Guide listed it. All very lovely and some really knowledgeable and on the ball staff. Definitely a proper pub.

  • Glasgow – Holiday Inn Express City Centre Riverside

    Glasgow – Holiday Inn Express City Centre Riverside

    I had a three-night stay at this Holiday Inn Express hotel in Glasgow, booked some time ago as part of a deal offered by IHG. As the name of the hotel suggests, it’s by the River Clyde.

    The standard comfortable layout of a Holiday Inn Express room, which was clean other than under the sofa which I suspect has been ignored for some months. The rooms aren’t cleaned during stays, but I was pre-warned about that, and on request I was given a heap of decaffeinated coffees and milks to keep me going through the three days.

    The view from the hotel room window, the River Clyde is on the right hand side.

    I was on the top floor (the fifth) and the corridor has been constructed so that it juts out to offer views of the river, with this arrangement probably not ideal for those who don’t like heights. I was very brave obviously and went to have a look.

    And the view from the end of the corridor….. A nice touch, as otherwise this marvellous view wouldn’t be visible to guests.

    There were a few different beers to choose from with the free welcome drink, although the staff member seemed surprised that I didn’t want a pint. Given that the choice was Stella, it wasn’t a difficult decision to have a bottle of something rather more drinkable instead. I went for the Goose Island IPA, which was entirely fine for a free drink.

    The staff member at check-in had been helpful, suggesting that as the hotel was full with 300 people that it’d be a good idea to get down to breakfast early to beat the rush. I did exactly that, so these photos make it look quiet, but that is a slightly false impression. Breakfast was very busy every morning just a few minutes after I had come down, so the advice to get down at opening was useful. The breakfast area really is too small for the size of the hotel, although my early arrival tactics meant I didn’t struggle to get a table.

    The hot drinks area.

    There was also a yoghurts and cereals section (on the right) and a choice of four different hot foods (on the left), which were scrambled egg, sausages, bacon and baked beans. I never really eat scrambled egg, but the other three options worked for me. The bacon was dry, slightly hard and shrivelled up, which is fortunately just as I like it. I heard a few customers grumble about it over the three mornings, but I don’t like bacon which only looks like someone has waved it in front of an oven, crispy is good for me. The choices for vegetarians and vegans were weak, there were some pastries, but they were generic.

    The seating area, which was full within a few minutes of this photo being taken.

    It’s important not to be greedy…..

    This was another well run hotel and I’m becoming greatly impressed with IHG properties. There were no noise issues either internally or externally, with everything working as it should do. Friendly staff, clean room and a modern hotel, even though it has been here now for over a decade. All really rather lovely.

  • Glasgow – Brewdog Glasgow Kelvingrove

    Glasgow – Brewdog Glasgow Kelvingrove

    I tried to visit this Brewdog a few days ago as it’s opposite Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, but it was a bit shut. Given that I’m trying to visit every Brewdog in the country, I decided to pop back here on the Glasgow Subway.

    The lack of welcome was a bit odd, but I suspect they didn’t see me, despite my British thing of standing there looking awkward for a short while. I think they were trying to greet every customer, so I must have been missed. I went to the seating area near to the bar and there’s a strange set-up here that they don’t use the standard Brewdog app. The location is also relatively small, although it’s one of their earlier ones and I think that this bar has been here for nine years.

    That’s the limit of the inside, although there are some seats around the outside as well that I ignored as I like being away from wasps, traffic and passer-bys.

    The beer menu wasn’t as large as most other Brewdogs, primarily no doubt as the venue is relatively small. I decided to just go for a third of the No Going Back from Newtown Park Brewing Co, a brewery from Bristol. Perfectly pleasant, lingering flavours of mango and peach, so that was my fruit intake sorted for the day. There wasn’t much else for me to try that I hadn’t had elsewhere, so I thought I’d limit myself to just one little drink.

    Then a barman comes over and asked if I ordered a third of the No Going Back. I said that I had, but I’d already got it. He then told me that I might as well have a second one for free, which was a policy decision that I entirely agreed with, but would never have suggested. As an aside, the amount of times I’ve seen in JD Wetherspoon when food goes to the wrong table and a customer says something like “I didn’t order it, but I’ll have it!” with the staff member doing a fake laugh or smile (they must have heard that line so many times) is a reminder for me not to say something like that.

    Anyway, the staff seemed friendly, although quite busy, so I liked the relaxed feel here. It’s clearly not a typical Brewdog bar, but still all very agreeable. For those visiting Glasgow’s city centre, there’s a larger Brewdog there which I visited earlier on during the week.

  • Glasgow – Ibis Budget

    Glasgow – Ibis Budget

    I had one night earlier in the week at the Ibis Budget in Glasgow, where I stayed with my friend Liam a few years ago en route to his stag week event (which was very well organised, but that’s a different matter). It might be one of the most basic brands within the Accor set-up, but they’ve got some excellent ones such as Ibis Budget Whitechapel.

    The welcome at the front desk was exceptional, with the staff member being full of enthusiasm. The greeting didn’t feel scripted or automated, so my first impressions were very positive. The room is the standard old-style Ibis Budget set-up, one which is entirely functional but not overly glamorous. There are rooms with a bunk bed, but since I was on my own I didn’t feel that I really needed bunk beds. They’ve put a bit of glamour into the toilets by putting fake brickwork paper on the wall (that seems the only change from a few years ago), but everything was clean and tidy.

    The reviews of the hotel aren’t great, but this mainly relates to the room rather than the staff or the cleanliness. That shower in the middle of the room is not ideal for some guests, although the modernisation at Whitechapel resolved that problem, so perhaps it’ll be addressed in the future. Looking at the Google scores, this hotel receives 2.9/5 for the rooms, 4.5/5 for the location and 4.8/5 for the service, so they’ve clearly got a competent and friendly team there. The hotel doesn’t have tea and coffee facilities in the room, but they provide it free of charge at reception.

    My view wasn’t the most inspiring (I mean the front bit, the view of the rest of Glasgow was better) and I’m not sure what’s going on with that fake facade on the left hand side. However, I had no problems with my stay, with no noise issues either internally or externally. There was another staff member at reception when I checked-out, but she was also friendly and helpful. It’s about a ten-minute walk to the city centre, so I’d happily recommend this hotel to others (but until resolved, I have to keep mentioning my on-going problem with Accor Hotels).

  • Glasgow – The Raven

    Glasgow – The Raven

    I’m slightly surprised that this pub is in the Good Beer Guide because there’s a strong emphasis on craft beer, but I’m glad that it has been listed. It was busy on a Friday evening, but I liked the engagement from the staff member at the door. When we were at the bar, he came over and pointed us towards where a table had just become available.

    There was an excellent choice of beers available, covering most styles, with a couple of real ales as well.

    I went for half of the Juice Springsteen from Alphabet Brewing and Mango Unchained from ShinDigger. Although the barman pointed out carefully which was which, I got muddled up and had to work it back out again when at the table. Fortunately, the Mango Unchained was packed with mango flavour which helped the identification.

    The music was a little loud, but not entirely overpowering, but everything felt safe and well managed. There’s food served throughout the day and the menu looked interesting. They’ve also got some electronic darts set-up which isn’t something that I’ve seen in a pub before, a bit of creativity there…. I can imagine that this would be a good place for groups, although it’s a bit far to come up for Norfolk en masse for. Definitely deserves to be in the Good Beer Guide as far as I’m concerned.

  • Glasgow – Laurieston Bar

    Glasgow – Laurieston Bar

    As my friend Jonathan was in Glasgow after faffing about doing something, he agreed to come with me on my evening’s Good Beer Guide pub visiting. This is an interesting pub just south of the River Clyde, which is also on the CAMRA’s historic interior list (the pub, not the river), primarily it seems as they haven’t really updated the interior since the 1960s. But, why change a winning concept?

    The bar design is old fashioned, but everything was clean, albeit dated. There are lots of modern and contemporary bars and pubs in the city though, it’s nice sometimes to go to somewhere a little different. There are no credit or debit cards accepted though and just cash, which is the first pub I’ve encountered in some months with such a policy.

    There’s a lounge bar and saloon bar, both with their own bars, another little slice of history.

    An old hot pies bit of apparatus on the counter, which is apparently still used today.

    My half pint of Hurricane Jack from Fyne Ales, which was well-kept but lacking in any real depth of flavour. The Quavers were delicious though and I was impressed at their selection of crisps.

    The pub might be traditional in its look, but the staff were friendly and the environment was comfortable enough. It was a busy bar of mainly locals it seemed, but the pub owners pride themselves on being welcoming to all. The toilets need modernising, it’s probably pushing it too much to try and keep those in a traditional state of repair. There’s a slight irony here that a traditional pub for locals is potentially going to end up becoming on-trend by mistake by offering an authentic experience.

    As for whether this should be in the Good Beer Guide, that’s more challenging, as the real ale choice was limited to one and the pub likes to source from Fyne Ales. For the experience, the welcome and the environment, I’m glad it is listed in the book though, as otherwise I might not have meandered over the river to get here (albeit on the subway).

  • Glasgow – Hunterian Museum (A Honeymooner’s Heart)

    Glasgow – Hunterian Museum (A Honeymooner’s Heart)

    There were a few exhibits that I thought deserved their own blog post following my visit to the Hunterian Museum in Glasgow.

    This didn’t look a particularly exceptional exhibit to me, just an anatomical specimen.

    It was this display label that managed to bring the exhibit to life a little (not literally)…… There’s not much that I can add to this description.

  • Glasgow – Hunterian Museum

    Glasgow – Hunterian Museum

    The Hunterian Museum is located within the grounds of the University of Glasgow, named after William Hunter who bequeathed the initial collections and also money to put towards its construction.

    At the moment it’s recommended to pre-book tickets, which I had done, ready for the 10:00 opening time (although I turned up a couple of minutes late as I got slightly muddled up with finding the museum). There was a friendly welcome and a one-way system was in place that actually made sense, although it was mostly ignored by visitors.

    This is the display relating to the Antonine Wall, which was a turf bank to the north of Hadrian’s Wall which was abandoned only eight years after it was constructed. That doesn’t sound ideal after all of the effort made in constructing it, but the natives were quite fierce at the time. There are numerous original Roman distance markers and stone inscriptions amongst the collections, some of which had been buried by the Romans as they departed the area.

    The main hall, with a whole Smörgåsbord of different exhibits, with the museum having a deliberately wide scope of subjects covered. The medical section was the one I found most interesting, but I liked the variety of items on display.

    This is an important exhibit to the university, the Blackstone Chair. Between 1451 until the middle of the nineteenth century, every student was examined orally whilst seated on the Black Stone. It’s a big lump of dolerite that they turned into a chair in 1776 to make things look a little more decadent. At the top of the whole apparatus of examination is a time-glass surrounded in bay leaves and it lasts for twenty minutes, which is the length of the examination ordeal. It is still usually occasionally, primarily in honorary graduations and for the Cowan Medal examination in classics.

    This is a thylacine, or a Tasmanian Tiger, a marsupial which became extinct in the 1930s. It had originally lived in Australia, but in modern times had only survived in Tasmania. The museum holds some inner organs of the animal as well, all that now remains of this rather remarkable creature. There are occasional sightings of the animal claimed, but nothing has ever been verified and it’s unlikely that they’ve survived. There are though some videos of the animal in zoos, with the attempted conservation efforts coming just too late.

    A photograph of the museum being constructed.

    And the rather cluttered way that Victorians insisted on filling their museums, this is an early photo of the main hall.

    Time will tell if I ever get round to it, but there were numerous exhibits that I thought justified their own post, so there might be more to come….. Anyway, this was a lovely little museum and it’s well worth a meander to go and see. There’s also an art gallery at the Hunterian, which I’m visiting as well, but the zoological museum here is currently closed, so I won’t be visiting that…..