I posted earlier about the fiddler crabs in Faro and, when I was looking for my aircraft video, I remembered that I had also filmed the crabs. This was presumably because, for a brief moment, I thought I was David Attenborough, albeit one with less gravitas, fewer camera crews and a much higher likelihood of getting distracted by airport infrastructure.
The video captures the little crabs scuttling about on the mudflats of the Ria Formosa, going about their business with much more purpose than I was managing in the heat. Did I mention that it was too hot?
My morning walk to the beach involved walking along the road next to Faro Airport, and I found it quite exciting to stand underneath the landing aircraft. I appreciate that some people require major cultural landmarks, dramatic landscapes or meaningful human encounters to feel enriched by travel, but I am apparently satisfied by a loud aircraft passing overhead at close range. Well, it excited and delighted me anyway, and that is enough. Not every travel highlight needs to trouble UNESCO.
I decided in the morning to walk to the beach in Faro and I saw a lot of little holes and I couldn’t initially work out what had made them. I briefly considered various possibilities, most of them wrong and involving baby anacondas, before deciding that I should perhaps stop inventing ecological theories and actually look more carefully.
When I looked more carefully, it was evident that there were thousands of these little crabs, known as fiddler crabs which were having a lovely time in the mudflats of the Ria Formosa. These are the sort of creatures that are easy to miss if one is walking too quickly, which I obviously wasn’t because it was far too hot for unnecessary athleticism.
The little crabs scuttling about on the mud and the males carrying one oversized claw like a tiny and deeply impractical handbag. They are generally identified as Afruca tangeri, formerly known as Uca tangeri, and they live in burrows on the intertidal mudflats. The enlarged claw is used by males for display, territorial behaviour and attracting females. Give the numbers of them, all seemingly doing useful things, it was all very charming to watch them early on a Tuesday morning in June…..
I was only staying overnight in Faro before flying to Warsaw and the hotel prices were more decadent than I’d like. The Ibis where I’ve stayed before was £80 and it’s quite a walk into the centre of Faro, so I was hoping for something nearer to the airport that I could just walk to.
I usually try and avoid apartments and the like because I fear that they take residences away from local people, but they are occasionally the only viable option. This was one of those occasions where my principles had a brief meeting with my budget and quietly stepped aside.
The walk to the accommodation took five minutes and that does reduce the whole stress of travel knowing that there’s not a complex transport arrangement at the other end.
The height of luxury. There was a bathroom next door and the whole arrangement was easy to check-in but that room was too hot.
The shared kitchen area.
The balcony which was more of a sun trap than anything else.
The night cost £30 which was much cheaper than a hotel would have been and it transpired to have been much more convenient. It didn’t have the luxury of a hotel room, and my friend Richard would have been appalled (as someone who struggles to go to an Ibis, let alone an Ibis Budget) but needs must….. It was cheap, close to the airport and perfectly adequate for one night, which is sometimes all accommodation needs to be. Not every stay has to be memorable other than it having a little place on this blog. Some stays merely need to not become a story for the wrong reasons and I’m pleased to say that this one managed that.
When in the airport lounge, I could see the Ryanair aircraft arriving into Norwich.
The flight to Faro was the last one of the day and so all felt orderly and well managed. It’s somehow a little better to be in the calmness of an operation about to close down rather than in the midst of chaos and overcrowding. And I don’t think that Norwich Airport is often overcrowded…
We waited outside ready to board the aircraft. I do wonder if they might have covered this area, but maybe now they’ve stopped collecting their £10 departure tax perhaps that investment will have to wait. A new roof is all very well, but one must not rush into these decadent infrastructure commitments I suppose.
Ready to board and it was aircraft 9H-VUJ, which I don’t think I’ve been on before.
I rather like these little steps at the front and these are the ones that fold-up into the aircraft. This is really clever, it saves airport fees, it’s quicker and it allows them to land in more places.
It’s a rather move convoluted affair to board using the rear steps, which definitely do not fold back into the aircraft.
The seating Gods gave me an aisle seat and I was slightly annoyed to find someone sitting in it. He willingly moved, his logic was that he thought the flight would be quiet and so he would sit in the aisle seat rather than the window seat. I did rather think he could have just sat in his actual seat and moved later on, but I kept those thoughts to myself.
As for the flight, the aircraft was a little grimy, but there is a limit to what the cabin crew can do in the 25 minute handover. The crew were friendly and helpful, but they appear to knock into the chairs with their trolleys more than Wizz Air crew. It seems that the Ryanair aircraft are slightly narrowed, as they use Boeing and Wizz Air using Airbus, so I suspect it’s just that. Or perhaps I was just in the trolley danger zone, which would be very on-brand for my travel arrangements.
And safely in Faro. It was too hot.
All of the European Entry System (EES) machines were on and the set-up here is that passengers go through the process using the kiosks and then a member of border force checks the passport but doesn’t stamp it. The whole process took around fifteen minutes which felt reasonable.
The queue for EU citizens was longer but they only had to go through the EES machines and didn’t need to see a member of border control.
There was one of the worst altercations I’ve seen at border control when two people at the neighbouring counter were told that they needed to step aside and wait for someone else to look at their passports. I don’t know why, but the two refused to move. The member of border control shouted at them to move back, then the border control officer who was serving me ran out of his counter and warned that they would be immediately deported. This rather raised the temperature of the room, which was already too hot in Portugal (as I may have mentioned) and therefore did not need further assistance.
The younger of the two women cried and said that she was confused and didn’t know what was happening. I did feel some sympathy, as border control is not the ideal environment in which to become confused or muddled up, especially when the staff are now discussing deportation with the energy of people who very much mean it. But I also quite liked this little bit of excitement, in the limited and selfish sense that it was happening near me rather than to me. My own border control officer then came back and was lovely, which was reassuring. It is always pleasant when someone returns from threatening deportation elsewhere and then smiles at you.
And here is the list of arrivals, because I remain committed to documenting the full glamour of international travel. Aircraft, queues, signage, crisps and border control tension: the modern European journey has everything.
The whole flight was entirely agreeable and it was £20 which is more expensive than my Wizz Air arrangements, but I didn’t have to pay to go to Luton. In terms of efficiency, this worked out well as the Luton rail line was closed after the crash, so this saved a bus replacement service and allowed me to enter the European Union cheaply. A smooth Ryanair flight from Norwich, a local beer beforehand and only a modest amount of border control theatre at the other end. That is about as much excitement as I require from budget aviation. So, all rather lovely.
I haven’t been to Norwich Airport lounge before, or I’ve forgotten if I have. It is a relatively small affair, but it was clean and organised. I do not need a champagne bar, rainfall shower and someone silently folding towels in the corner. I mostly need somewhere to sit, plug something in and eat cheese with the quiet dignity of a person who has walked to the airport, so my expectations were based around that rather than anything too decadent.
The staff here are particularly helpful and engaging, but I think that they know a fair number of the visitors so I imagine that they are commuting to Amsterdam or similar. My first impressions were positive given the friendly welcome and it didn’t look too busy. The lounge remains open for all the flights and there’s the usual rule that there’s a maximum three hour stay.
The food is mainly cheese, mugshots, croissants, cakes and the like.
As well as crisps and fruit.
The view over the airport apron.
There’s a limit of two alcoholic drinks per customer, although I only wanted one and that was an agreeable chilled Woodforde’s Wherry. It’s nice when lounges make some effort to provide local beers and they also had Heineken for those who aren’t fussy about what beer they drink.
On the limited number of alcoholic drinks, I’ve some sympathy for the lounge as some airports are struggling with the number of customers who are treating it as an all you can drink affair. That isn’t quite what lounges were really designed for and it’s forcing the cost of them up, so controversial as it might be, I’d be happy if every lounge limited customers to two alcoholic drinks.
I had a quick espresso although there were some issues with cleaning the coffee machine which I decided that I didn’t want to know more about. There are moments in life when curiosity is a virtue, and other moments when one should accept the coffee, drink it and not ask too many questions.
Dr Pepper, Cathedral city cheese and Mini Cheddars, this is what travel is all about.
This lounge was included in my annual Priority pass card, but walk-up availability can be purchased for £27.50. That’s possibly pushing it a little bit, but the surroundings are comfortable, the staff members were friendly and I was able to have as many crisps, cake and cheese snacks as I wanted. I think that’s a result.
As a little reward for walking to the airport from the centre of Norwich, I thought that I’d pop into McDonald’s that’s only a couple of minutes from the airport itself. I’m not sure that elite athletes generally use McDonald’s as part of their recovery and reward strategy, but there we go.
I don’t usually have such decadent Chicken Selects, but they were part of the McDonald’s Monday app offer. And a coffee as I realised I hadn’t had my usual 8 in JD Wetherspoons and didn’t want my body to become alarmed by the sudden absence of routine. It was all very nice incidentally for what that’s worth.
The team member in the restaurant, or whatever you want to call it in the modern corporate food environment, was very enthusiastic. He was checking customers knew how to order, he was doing check backs, cleaning the windows where people were sitting and I liked how he welcomed a German visitor by using what he told her was his GCSE German.
Personally, I thought the engagement was a bit much, and I preferred the grumpy-looking team member who was less conversational. This is not a criticism exactly, more a reflection of my own social expectations. Sometimes I want warm hospitality, and sometimes I just want to be handed coffee by someone who looks as though they too have accepted the basic futility of the modern world. But I would never knock enthusiasm, especially in hospitality, where cheerful effort deserves more credit than it usually gets.
This is bloody ridiculous and just greedy of Norwich Airport. The airport is operated by Regional and City Airports who also operate Exeter Airport and Bournemouth Airport and I’ve written about the latter where they’ve tried to ban walkers in a desperate attempt to get more revenue.
This is Norwich Airport, and it’s fair to say there are no real congestion problems here. We are not dealing with Heathrow at half-term or Gatwick during a systems collapse. This is an airport where the main traffic management challenge often appears to be identifying whether anything is happening. The drop-off charge therefore feels less like a necessary operational measure and more like an unnecessary little money grab with barriers and CCTV cameras.
This is Norwich Airport and it’s fair to say that there are no real congestion problems here, this is all an unnecessary money grab. Anyway, it’s McDonald’s that had to deal with the airports policies, their car park had four taxis in it and several people being picked up and dropped off as the fining regime can’t reach them there. Anyway, my usual slight complaining aside, it meant that I had reached Norwich Airport ready for my early evening flight.
I’ve decided I’ll have to leave some stories of the last trip untold for the moment and it’s back to this week. This is slightly unfortunate for the chronological order, but I have long since accepted that this blog now operates less like a diary and more like a lightly confused archive with opinions.
I thought that I might as well walk to Norwich Airport as it isn’t that far. Here’s the delights of the riverside walk near Cow Tower.
And Cow Tower itself, which seems to have been locked again after a recent period of being left open. It was built between 1398 and 1399 and is one of the earliest purpose-built artillery blockhouses in England, designed to defend a strategic point in Norwich’s medieval defences by the River Wensum. That is a rather more dramatic original purpose than its current role of standing photogenically beside walkers, dog owners and people like me trying to get to an airport without paying for a bus or taxi. The name comes from Cowholme, the meadow that was once located here
This is St James Mill, built by the Norwich Yarn Company in the late 1830s as part of an attempt to revive Norwich’s textile industry. The company itself did not last long, because Victorian industrial optimism was not always matched by the accounts department, but the building survived and later became associated with Jarrold’s printing works. And, yes, it was too hot.
There’s a bit of a gap in this narrative here as I already posted the photos that I had taken of Anglia Square as I walked by.
This is the former King Edward VII pub on the Aylsham Road, now used as a mosque. I never visited this pub and I think it was something of a music venue towards the end, but it’s always sad to see a licensed premises closed. It first opened in 1903 and was a Morgans, then Bullards and then a Watney Mann pub which finally closed in 2014.
I had a little stop to cool down here.
A now closed Lloyds Bank.
The former Falcon pub which Lacons opened in 1926, later owned by Whitbread and Enterprise Inns. It was destroyed by the Co-op in 2014 when they turned it into a supermarket, but then after doing that damage, they ditched it in 2018. It looks now as if it’s being turned into a residential property.
This is a small remaining stretch of the old Norwich to Cromer road, rerouted when an airport was put down on its route.
The former Firs pub which was opened in 1933 by Bullards and was owned by a series of breweries including Watney Mann, Brent Walker, Chef & Brewer, Pubmaster and then Enterprise Inns. This was probably ultimately a viable pub, but it was snapped up by Tesco in 2011 and so that was the end of that. Fortunately, planning changes have made it harder for supermarket, and indeed McDonald’s, to do this.
And an hour after leaving, walking into the retail park next to Norwich Airport.
This is the grave of Michael John Hayman, who died on 14 September 1963 at the age of 19. I did try and find out more about him, but haven’t been very successful. I made a mistake here as I looked up how many war graves were at the church and CWGC noted that there was just one, which I assumed was this. I had forgotten that they don’t list graves that are from after 1947, so I only took this photo.
The incident wasn’t directly related to the military, but as he was a senior aircraftman in the RAF, he was given a war grave. I don’t know why this church was chosen, but it was very close to RAF Filton which has now closed, but the site is used by Aerospace Bristol.
I accept that these blog posts are entirely out of order. I particularly mention in the chronology sense with that statement I’d better hasten to add. I’m going to post what I can today and then move on to my current trip and I am unanimous in that… This is the sort of firm editorial control my two loyal blog readers have come to expect, assuming they are still trying to work out why I was apparently in three places at once.
Anyway, this is Newport railway station which I think is quite an ugly building, but each to their own as I’m sure that some thought that it was a bold modern transport experiment.
The station opened as Newport High Street in June 1850 and is on the mainline between Bristol and Cardiff.
This was my first train, the GWR service from Newport to Bristol Parkway.
I was pre-annoyed as it required me to have a seat reservation and, as I’ve mentioned before, I don’t like them. Invariably someone will be sitting in the seat or there’s some other inconvenience, so I’d rather sit where I want. Anyway, I boarded the train, which was going to London, and just sat where it said there was no reservation. It transpired that the train’s reservation system was down so it didn’t matter anyway and this no doubt annoyed the people who did want to have a reserved seat, which is one of the pleasingly democratic qualities of British rail travel, namely that eventually everyone gets disappointed.
Crossing the River Usk at Newport.
Safely at Bristol Parkway. I went off to look at an old church at this point, I’ll come back to that another time. Although this is how the blog chronology collapses, one church and one railway platform at a time.
Back at Bristol Parkway, this station opened in 1972, although it was heavily modernised in 2001.
Many people come to look at this plaque noting the unveiling of the new platform by Chris Grayling, then the Transport Secretary and now in the Lords, in April 2018.
I found a Tesco when church hunting so that was lunch sorted. Note all that fruit. I mention this because it gives the whole arrangement a faintly healthy glow, even if the broader dietary context of my travels may not withstand close academic scrutiny.
The GWR train to Bath Spa turned up six minutes later and I wondered whether Delay Repay would kick in, but they got the train back on track so to speak.
This train wasn’t overly busy and GWR hadn’t burdened themselves by cleaning it.
Playing music loudly from his phone and feet wiped on the seats numerous times. The train guard didn’t say anything, although I hardly blame the staff as they don’t want the risk of being attacked. I limited myself to silent disapproval, at which I am becoming increasingly professional.
