Whilst meandering to the hotel last night, I made the effort to walk around the Church of St Peter and St Paul in Harlington for the first time. The church was mostly built in the twelfth century and is mentioned in the Domesday Book, so there was probably a Saxon religious building here as well. The chancel was rebuilt in the fourteenth century, the tower added in the fifteenth, and the porch in the sixteenth, with a Victorian restoration and a new north aisle added in 1880.
I find this an intriguing building as it was once a country church in a rural setting and now it’s a few hundred metres from Heathrow Airport and around fifty metres from the M4. However, this is what the area looked like around 180 years ago when everything was much more peaceful in this area. I think it’s fair to say that anyone from 180 years ago the main drama would have been someone with strong opinions on turnips compared to today’s A380 or similar flying overhead.
I set off for Heathrow yesterday as there was a cheap offer advertised by Accor and, naturally, I hadn’t formed any other plan. This is what travel looked like before people insisted on having itineraries, aims and a vague sense of personal responsibility. Anyway, here’s the train to Stansted Airport which departed on time and without issue. There was no driver until one minute before departure and I was slightly hoping for a delay repay, but it wasn’t to be. I’d add at this stage that there isn’t any fascinating content in this post (not that there usually is), but I like a complete write-up for my own memory. And, imagine, a future historian might query why civilisation failed and they might discover the answer from this blog.
Safely in Cambridge.
There was a six minute connection time to get the Great Northern train to King’s Cross and it took me four minutes to cross Cambridge railway station so anyone with accessibility issues would have likely missed it.
Setting off and the train remained relatively quiet, which made it easier for all the people with seats to keep them there. These trains, similar to Thameslink, don’t have power points but I do like the ironing board seats, although I seem to be about the only person who does.
I always like arriving into King’s Cross, it’s a beautiful station.
And safely into Hayes and Harlington railway station using the Elizabeth Line. There’s a decent fair from Norwich to here, it came in at £12 which felt rather reasonable.
I thought I’d pop to the Botwell Inn, the JD Wetherspoon operated pub located near to the railway station. This real ale went back, it was vinegary on the taste, but the manager was quick at checking it and replacing it. Actually, the manager was very good in general, this always feels like a well-run pub and real ale based issues are inevitably going to occur.
The replacement beer was the Wolf of the Woods from Twickenham Fine Ales with a biscuity, toffee and nutty taste to it. It also cost only £2.39 a pint which is the usual bargain price from the chain.
I decided that it might be useful to actually plan my week at this stage, since it was already Sunday evening and I had no idea where I was going. I do know that I needed to be back in Bristol for Friday morning, so I needed a plan to get there cheaply. I decided on a route via Skopje, booked the flights, trains and National Express, ready now for the craft beer festival. I mentioned a few days ago that this is one of the countries that I haven’t visited, so it felt a wise choice.
Given that I was lingering here, I paid £6.39 for the steak pudding with chips and that included the Guinness 0%. It’s not exactly going to surprise and delight those who like fine dining, but it’s hard to complain too much at that price.
It was an hour walk to the hotel and this time I decided to have a look at the church in Harlington for the first time, but more of that in a separate post as I don’t want some ecclesiastical masonry interfering with this post.
Back at the Heathrow Ibis hotel which I’ve stayed at numerous times before. The reason I stayed here is that with the Accor offer it came to £13 for the night, which I thought was reasonable.
I also get my free welcome drink and here are some of the options.
Not Magners, but the Eazy from Camden Town Brewery which is growing on me, it’s got flavours of orange, it’s hazy and it’s quite intriguing. That is a pint glass, it’s just that the chair the other side of the table is unusually large.
A room. This blog really doesn’t fail to delight with riveting content…. But, I arrived here with a plan for the week and that felt like an achievement in itself.
This is another one of my good ideas. Well, hopefully….. 12 teams and an exciting event on 22 August 2026 at the Artichoke. There will be four mini leagues of three teams each (and Luke from the Artichoke Hearts has checked this as I need adults to check things like this) and the winner of each league goes through to the semi-finals.
It’ll raise money for charity and there will be some extra excitement during the day as if all these bar billiards games aren’t enough! Every entrant will get two games and if they’re really good, they’ll get more 🙂
12 TEAMS
TEAM 1 : Julian & Luke
TEAM 2 : Vaughan & PJ
TEAM 3 : Terri & Kirsty
TEAM 4 : John Ames & Jack Ames
TEAM 5 : Pete Brown & Someone
TEAM 6 : Dave Brewer & Phil Myhill
TEAM 7 : Roy Dunford & Guy Wheeler
TEAM 8 : Oscar Gerdes & Someone
TEAM 9 : Chip & David
TEAM 10 : Oli & Dennis
TEAM 11 : Sharpy & Someone
TEAM 12 : Another Sharpy & Someone
…….
Please email jw@julianwhite.uk to reserve a space and payment will be needed by 15 July 2026.
For anyone bored, here are some more of my ‘riveting’ bar billiards posts…..
In 1995, workers at the Chatham Historic Dockyard lifted the floorboards of the Wheelwright’s Shop for what should have been routine maintenance. Instead, they found themselves standing above what would turn out to be one of the most significant naval archaeological discoveries since the Mary Rose. Beneath seven layers of flooring lay some 245 giant timbers that had lain undiscovered for over a century and they had been placed there deliberately in an attempt to preserve them for posterity. Effectively, someone decided that the best way to deal with a 90-gun warship was to bury a large part of it under a shed.
After working out what boat someone had hidden, the vessel was eventually identified as HMS Namur, a second-rate ship of the line launched at Chatham in 1756. She was captained for a while by Charles Austen, the brother of Jane Austen, and crewed by Olaudah Equiano, an important figure in the abolishment of the slave trade. The Namur served with the Royal Navy for 47 years and participated in nine fleet actions, including the Battle of Lagos in 1759, which saw the destruction of the French Mediterranean fleet and left invasion plans in tatters. She also saw the capture of Havana in 1762, the Battle of Cape St Vincent in 1797 and the Battle of Cape Ortegal in 1805. This was all a symbol of British naval superiority, it’s not an entire surprise that someone wanted to save it.
The mystery of why the timbers ended up beneath the floorboards of the Wheelwright’s Shop remains unsolved, though there are suspicions. It is possible that the preservation and hiding of as much fabric as possible from the Namur was officially sanctioned by the Captain Superintendent of Chatham Dockyard, James Alexander Gordon, who had served on the ship during the Battle of Cape St Vincent in 1797. Recycling was commonplace at the dockyards and broken up bits of wood were often scattered around the site, but they weren’t usually carefully arranged in one place and hidden. Some people suggested that the wood was used as supports for the building above, but most of them aren’t actually supporting anything and everything is rather carefully laid out.
The Namur was broken up in 1833 and it is 10% of the frame that has been found underneath the floor. Most of the Namur was recycled or destroyed at the time, but it is rather lovely that all of this has survived. It has presented the museum a problem in what to do with all of this heap of wood, so they’ve made the sensible decision to just leave it there. This was all one of my favourite things at the museum, a heap of wood someone has hidden for reasons unknown and I like odd storage decisions.
200 years ago this week in the Norwich Mercury, it was advertised that James Page and his brewery had financial troubles and so a number of pubs were put up for sale. One of them was the Red Lion in Hindolveston and the newspaper article for this venue read:
“LOT 3. A Public House, in Hindolveston, called the Red Lion, with Stable and other Out-buildings, Yard Garden, and Land belonging, containing three acres more or less, now in the occupation of Sarah Clifton widow.”
The building was purchased by the Fakenham Brewery and then later on that became part of Bullards and they operated this pub until 1963 when it was permanently closed down. I’m not sure when Bullards took over, but in 1871 there was an auction of 13 pubs and this was one of them, so it might have been then. One of the problems that so many country pubs have today is that their land has been reduced down, which stops them either renting land out, using it as a campsite or maybe constructing buildings which might help them finance their operations. I imagine that the three acres that this pub had in 1826 was sold off longer before the pub closed.
And this is it today, what is now a private rental property known as Carwood House. The frontage hasn’t much changed from when it was a pub, with an old photo visible at https://www.norfolkpubs.co.uk/norfolkh/hindolveston/hindorl.htm. This feels like a traditional country pub, it would be quite intriguing to see what it was like 200 years ago when it was sold…..
Carrying on from my previous post, I had settled into the gate area that was past border control and I had gone through the EES (European entry/exit system) and had my passport stamped. My flight was late and then there was an announcement that the flight was now on time and it would be departing from Gate 3. This was fine, until I realised that this gate was in the Schengen area of the airport and I no longer was. This presented me with a problem. I was now on the wrong side of border control, which is not generally where I want to be when an aircraft is quietly preparing to leave without me.
So, I decided to go back to the border guard staff and mention the situation. They were helpful and told me that this was something of a mess, but they allocated me a police officer who walked me to my gate and around the newly opened border control area for the new gate.
This was the scene until around shortly before boarding, as many other passengers hadn’t realised that they were now at the wrong gate. And, soon after this, there was something of a deluge of stressed looking passengers and numerous police officers who I assume had pro-actively rounded everyone up they had realised were in the wrong place. I think that everyone boarded the flight, but the queue for border control was thirty deep when boarding commenced.
With that, it was time for me to board at least. It’s aircraft 9H-WNV, which is yet another Wizz Air aircraft that I hadn’t been on.
Passengers were trickling on rather than the usual rush. The seating Gods had given me a window seat for the 80 minute flight and this was unusually for Wizz Air an aircraft that hadn’t really been cleaned from the last passengers. I think that this was more to do with Wizz Air trying to cut the delay so that we departed on time even thought the aircraft was late in, so more about efficiency than anything else.
And there’s the aircraft I just disembarked from and I knew that this was my last flight for around a month, something I felt friends gave me insufficient sympathy for. Anyway, this was another £8.99 flight from Wizz Air with Multipass and it was smooth, efficient and the cabin crew were friendly as usual. The boarding process was a little sub-optimal, but I take into account the fare that I’ve paid and I can cope without jazz bands, champagne, silk cushions and whatever else decadent passengers might want. I also had some good news that my train from London King’s Cross to Ely was cancelled which meant I arrived into Norwich 75 minutes late and so got the entire £22 rail fare back.
This was in the Norwich Mercury in June 1826 and that £10 is quite a fine, that’s something like £700 in today’s money and it appears that he didn’t pay it. The prison at that point was the House of Correction which closed in 1837 and is now the site of the Norwich Catholic Cathedral. The House of Correction was at the same site as the City Gaol but it was a different institution, albeit run by similar management and these were originally intended for the punishment and reform of people convicted of lesser offences such as vagrancy, disorder, petty theft, drunkenness, breach of local regulations and similar misdemeanours.
There were too many William Pastons in Norwich at this time to be able to find out more about him, but I’m guessing that he took rum in for a friend or family members. And the result of that little arrangement was that he ended up imprisoned with them.
This is a heat map of where I’ve been from the photos that I’ve taken. There are some gaps here as I used a camera for some trips rather than a phone and my trips to Russia seem to have entirely disappeared. Anyway, it means that the only European countries (I’m going to include the Vatican City and similar here, regardless of what they actually are) that I have left to visit are:
Vatican City
Belarus
Moldova
Iceland
Kosovo
Monaco
Andorra
San Marino
North Macedonia
Bosnia & Herzegovina
I mention this as I’ve persuaded Jonathan, who I went travelling to Turkey/Georgia and Armenia with in January and February, to take me to Montenegro and Bosnia & Herzegovina in September. He can deal with rural public transport and I’ll deal with food options, it’s a fair allocation of resources. Some people divide travel responsibilities by navigation, accommodation and logistics. We are operating at a more advanced level, namely buses for him and lunch for me to worry about.
Belarus I can’t really go to at the moment and it’ll be a faff to tick off the micro-states/countries of Vatican City, Andorra, Monaco and San Marino but I’ll work it out. There are some Wizz Air possibilities to Iceland, Moldova and North Macedonia hopefully not far away, perhaps I can even visit those this year.
And then maybe I might start going outside Europe, but at least I have an exciting rail trip around Serbia, Montenegro and Bosnia to look forward to in September. What could possibly go wrong?
This is Jonathan Peel and 200 years ago this week he wrote to the Norwich Mercury to inform them that he intended to stand for Parliament in the constituency of Norwich.
“TO THE GENTLEMEN, CLERGY, FREEMEN, & FREEHOLDERS OF THE City and County of Norwich.
GENTLEMEN,
A most flattering and unexpected honour has been this day conferred upon me. I have received a requisition, to which names of the first respectability are attached, calling upon me to present myself at the approaching General Election as a Candidate for the high honour of representing the City of Norwich.
In the absence of all local connection, I certainly should not have presumed, without such a requisition, to aspire to that distinction; but understanding that one of your present Members has publicly notified his intention to retire from Parliament, and being assured that the public principles which I avow are in unison with those maintained by a very large portion of the body which I have now the honour to address, I will not hesitate in gratifying to my feelings, and made to me in a manner which acquits me, I trust, of the charge of presumptously offering myself to your notice.
As I shall solicit your suffrages on the ground of public principles alone, you will justly expect from me an explicit declaration of those principles.
I know not, Gentlemen, in what terms I can better describe my general opinions upon political subjects than by the simple assurance, that I am a true friend to the Constitution in Church and State.
I was taught, from my earliest infancy, to venerate those ancient institutions which constitute the Government of the Country in which we live—I was educated in those sentiments, and experience and reflection have only served to confirm the impressions which were first received from example and authority. My voice shall be given, if I shall ever have a right to raise that voice in Parliament, for the maintenance in matters of Government, of that order of things which I find established.
I am opposed to Reform in Parliament. And in what is usually called Catholic Emancipation I feel it my duty to offer a firm and decided opposition, unmingled however with any feeling of rancour or hostility towards those of our fellow subjects more immediately interested in that question.
I have probably said enough to explain to you the general tenor of my political principles. If you should think me worthy of the distinction which I seek, I promise an unwavering attention to every thing connected with the local and peculiar concerns of the City of Norwich, with the promotion of its Manufacturing Interests, and the advancement of its general welfare.
I have the honour to be,
Gentlemen,
Your obedient humble Servant, JONATHAN PEEL. Marble Hill, Twickenham, 4th May, 1826.”
Jonathan was the younger brother of the Prime Minister, Robert Peel, which probably helped matters somewhat in terms of being found a constituency in which to stand. He had no links to Norwich though and he was against reform and Catholic emancipation so he was hardly the most radical of candidates. This didn’t stop the electors of Norwich voting him in, although the constituency had two MPs at the time and the other elected was William Smith who was a Radical and who wanted abolition and Parliamentary reform. I note his polite words, and still today it is more dignified to say “I have been asked to serve” than “I rather fancy becoming an MP”.
Jonathan, if I might call him that, lost the Norwich constituency in 1830, although he then moved to be the MP for Huntingdon between 1831 and 1868, later serving as the Secretary of State for War on two occasions. It all goes to show that actually being local was less important to electors back before the Great Reform Act, although it’s fair to say that there was a lot more corruption and backhanders going on back then compared to today (well, in theory anyway).
My journey back home from Dortmund started at Dortmund Stadthaus metro station and all was going well at this point. Until I tried to buy a ticket and the card machine elements of the ticket machines were all down and not working. This I considered sub-optimal as I don’t carry cash partly as this is the 21st century and partly because I have a reckless optimism that ticket machines will work. However, in Lübeck I found 5 euros on the floor by the river and I suspected that, in a similar way to how computer adventure games work, that it would come in useful. And that was very much the case here, I used cash to buy my ticket and that saved me a thirty minute meander to the city’s central railway station.
There’s the ticket validation machine and so I was good to go.
I needed Aplerbeck and there was only a short wait for the U47 to turn up.
A wait of five minutes to be precise.
And here it comes, all as expected.
I’ve posted about this journey before, but the metro stops at Aplerbeck and then passengers get a bus to the airport.
And in what I think is the premium seat for a passenger to look out of the window. Well, in the absence of being the bus driver of course. There aren’t many limits to my ambitions, but becoming a bus driver is one of them.
There’s no lounge at the airport, but there is a McDonald’s just a five minute walk away and I had a free coffee on my app, so I didn’t want to miss the opportunity. They also have power points and, as usual, I wanted to be fully charged given that’s one of my travel priorities.
I had a relaxing ninety minutes at McDonald’s, bringing this blog up-to-date with about 65 ‘riveting’ posts about Lübeck. I use the word riveting advisedly, as some readers may not have known they needed detailed commentary on churches, airports, museums, railway stations and toilet pricing.
Safely at the airport, which is really too small for the number of passengers that it gets.
An interesting place to put a hopscotch game for kids in the middle of the queueing aisle. Nothing says efficient passenger flow quite like inviting small children to begin a structured jumping activity where everyone is already trying to stand.
This is the downstairs area at Dortmund Airport which is short of seating space, poorly signed and only designed for non-Schengen flights in some sort of bid to test passenger resilience. However, I found a seat and prepared myself for the two hour wait for the flight, which at this point was delayed by half an hour. Anyway, my planned comfortable arrangement changed and I needed to find a police officer, but more in part two (who says I can’t build tension on this blog?).
