Category: UK

  • Ickworth House – Below Stairs

    Ickworth House – Below Stairs

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    One of the volunteer guides at Ickworth House told me that this favourite area of the property was the below stairs tunnels and rooms. These comments transpired to be very understandable having seen the whole building, there’s an element of rawness down here.

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    Located on the lower floor under the Rotunda, the opportunity to explore this hidden world is largely thanks to a significant initiative by the National Trust: the “Ickworth Lives” project. Launched in 2011, this project meticulously researched and restored the basement quarters to reflect their appearance and function during the 1930s.

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    The wine and craft beer storage area. I accept it was mostly the former.

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    Keeping track of who was staying in the rooms.

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    A lovely view of a brick wall, although at least there was some sun shining in. Anyway, I think it’s time for a table:

    Role Key Responsibilities Mentioned/Implied at Ickworth References
    Butler Supervise male staff, manage wine cellar, oversee dining service, potentially valet duties Yes (Mr. Dunning)
    Housekeeper Supervise female staff, manage linens & stores, oversee house cleaning Yes (Mrs. Seddons)
    Cook/Head Cook Plan menus, order food, manage kitchen staff, prepare meals Yes
    Valet Gentleman’s personal servant: dressing, clothes care, shaving, boot polishing Implied/General
    Lady’s Maid Lady’s personal servant: dressing, hair, cosmetics, clothes care Implied/General
    Footman Assist butler, serve meals, answer door, run errands, polish silver Yes (Laurence)
    Housemaid Clean rooms, make beds, clean fires, dust, general household duties Yes (Rose, Lily, Florence)
    Parlour Maid Serve meals (often breakfast/lunch), clean reception rooms, answer door Yes (Mary Brunning)
    Kitchen Maid Assist cook with food preparation, kitchen cleaning Yes (Ruth Mizen, Maggie)
    Scullery Maid Wash dishes/pots/pans, heavy cleaning in kitchen/scullery, prepare vegetables, light fires Yes (Arianna, Harriet Flack)
    Hall Boy General errands, heavy lifting (coal/wood), cleaning boots, assisting footmen/butler Yes (John Mayhew)

    That’s quite a selection of staff who were working in the warren of rooms downstairs. The job wasn’t the worst going, but it would require an early rise and shifts tended to be up to 16 hours a day, with minimal days off. Lady Theodora Hervey, the 4th Marchioness, had at least improved matters somewhat in her 1910 investment in the facilities which reduced the need to walk so far to serve food and it also introduced electric lighting and hot water boilers.

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    It seems that rather than the servants being housed in the attic of the building,some of their sleeping quarters were located in the maze of downstairs rooms.

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    I’ve seen far worse in terms of accommodation.

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    I can only imagine this was one of the rooms for a butler or valet, it’s quite decadent. It also has half a set of encyclopaedias.

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    Some of the industrial equipment in the cellars. Liam was more excited about all this engineering than I was. How someone can get excited by a piling rig is beyond me, but I don’t judge.

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    The finishing kitchen and this was installed after the dining room debacle meant the food was getting cold by the time it arrived.

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    I did note that the kitchen was bigger than my entire flat….

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    More engineering.

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    Liam understood this.

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    The pipes continue.

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    One of the toilets that the servants could use.

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    And, for the sake of completeness, the other one.

    There’s been an increase in interest in this whole sort of thing since Downton Abbey, although I’ve personally always been more engaged with You Rang, M’Lord?, although I must admit to having never watched Downton Abbey…. It’s definitely an intriguing area of the house and they’ve restored this really to quite a high standard of authenticity which has humanised the rooms.

  • Ickworth House – William Hogarth’s ‘The Hervey Conversation Piece’

    Ickworth House – William Hogarth’s ‘The Hervey Conversation Piece’

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    As I’m not observant, I hadn’t realised at the time that this painting at Ickworth House was by William Hogarth (1697-1764) who must rank as one of the most influential British artists. The work was commissioned by John, Lord Hervey, and also has the title of ‘The Holland House Group’ which seems to me to be a more grown-up sounding name than ‘the Hervey Conversation Piece’. This secondary title points towards the significant presence of Henry and Stephen Fox, whose family later held the title Baron Holland and resided at Holland House. I had to look it up, but the ‘conversation piece’ style of artwork was a thing in the eighteenth century, a way of the middle classes to show off their status.

    It was painted between 1738 and 1740, with this being time for another table…

    Sitter Key Title/Role Depicted Action/Pose Relationship to Hervey/Group
    John Hervey, 2nd Baron Hervey (1696–1743) Vice-Chamberlain to Royal Household Standing centrally, wearing gold key, gesturing at plan Commissioner; Central figure; Political leader/Courtier
    Henry Fox, 1st Baron Holland (1705–1774) Surveyor-General of the King’s Works Standing, holding up architectural plan Political ally (Whig); Colleague (related interests in architecture/works)
    Stephen Fox, 1st Earl of Ilchester (1704–1776) Later Joint Secretary to the Treasury Seated at table with wine/fruit, dog at feet; stick upsets Desaguliers’ chair Brother of Henry Fox; Political ally (Whig); Social connection
    Charles Spencer, 3rd Duke of Marlborough (1706–1758) Gentleman of the King’s Bedchamber (from 1738) Seated left of Hervey, leaning in, gesturing Colleague in Royal Household; Political ally (Whig); Social connection
    Thomas Winnington (1696–1746) Whig Politician Standing beside Marlborough, foot on garden roller Political ally (Whig); Social connection
    Rev. John Theophilus Desaguliers (1683–1744) Natural Philosopher, Clergyman, Engineer, Freemason Peering through telescope, teetering on upset chair near river Intellectual figure; Represents scientific/Enlightenment interests within Hervey’s circle

    I love a political artwork (I don’t get out much) as they’re statements of intent and political alliances rather than anything else. Hervey had reached the giddy heights of Vice-Chamberlain to Royal Household which was a rather more powerful role than it is today. I note that because I would bet that the majority of people don’t know that Samantha Dixon currently holds the role, although I sometimes fear that the majority of people don’t know who the Home Secretary is.

    There is some background information here, which is that John Hervey and Stephen Fox were in a relationship, although initially John has pursued Henry Fox until he rejected the advances and he went for his older brother instead. For extra excitement, Winnington had an affair, likely more than one, and managed to get himself involved in a duel.

    The artwork has never left the property and was owned by the Hervey family until 1956 when it was accepted by HM Treasury in lieu of death duties and then given to the National Trust. There’s also a copy of the artwork at Redlynch Park in Wiltshire, which was the country seat of the Fox family.

  • Ickworth House – Painting of Constantine Phipps Greeting Augustus Hervey

    Ickworth House – Painting of Constantine Phipps Greeting Augustus Hervey

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    This painting at Ickworth House shows the meeting of the Hon. Mrs Constantine Phipps being led to greet her brother, Captain the Hon Augustus Hervey, later 3rd Earl of Bristol. The artwork was commissioned in 1750 by the matriarch Mary, Lady Hervey, but it was a rather more complex affair than she might have first intended. The six individuals posed, or whatever it is people do when sitting for a painting, in Paris in October 1750 and much of the whole thing was a show of her social status. Anyway, there’s more about Mary at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Hervey and more about Augustus at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Augustus_Hervey,_3rd_Earl_of_Bristol.

    The artist was Hubert-François Bourguignon (1699-1773), known as Gravelot, who was something of an active participant in London’s burgeoning art scene, frequenting Slaughter’s Coffee House and teaching at the St. Martin’s Lane Academy, an important precursor to the Royal Academy, alongside figures like William Hogarth and Francis Hayman. His pupils included the young Thomas Gainsborough, who reportedly even painted backgrounds for Gravelot in the mid-1740s. In the Ickworth painting, commissioned five years after his return to Paris, Gravelot appears to have been the primary architect and instigator of the whole arrangement. He is credited with painting the bodies of the figures and, significantly, the heads of Mary, Lady Hervey, and the Fitzgerald couple.

    But then we move onto Jean-Étienne Liotard (1702–1789), a portrait painter born in Geneva to French Huguenot parents. For the Ickworth commission, Liotard was specifically engaged to paint the heads of the Honourable Mrs Constantine Phipps and her husband. But then it seems that Lady Hervey became a bit impatient with the speed of everything and she commissioned Francis Hayman (1708-1776) to finish everything off, although his exact contribution is unclear so there are some figures that have likely been painted by three different people.

    Which gives us (as everyone loves a handy table):

    Figure Name & Title (at time of painting / later) Dates Relationship to Commissioner (Mary, Lady Hervey) Depicted Attire Artist of Head
    Woman being led Hon. Lepell Phipps (née Hervey) / later Lady Mulgrave 1723–1780 Daughter Pink and white dress Liotard
    Man being greeted Captain the Hon. Augustus Hervey / later 3rd Earl of Bristol 1724–1779 Son Blue naval uniform, gold braid Gravelot
    Woman seated (right) Mary ‘Molly’ Lepel, Lady Hervey c. 1700–1768 Commissioner (Self) Pink dress, black shawl Gravelot
    Man leading woman Constantine Phipps / later 1st Baron Mulgrave 1722–1775 Son-in-law Blue attire Liotard
    Second woman standing Lady Mary Fitzgerald (née Hervey) 1726–1815 Daughter Green dress Gravelot
    Second man standing George Fitzgerald, MP (dates N/A) Son-in-law Murrey-brown coat, blue waistcoat Gravelot

    What a faff. This painting was one of the relatively few at Ickworth House that just stayed at the property, perhaps because no-one else would want it, rather than being one that the National Trust had to work out how to reacquire later on. The whole thing feels like the eighteenth century equivalent of a modern-day photo of a family on a first class flight somewhere cultural, showing happy families, a slight air of superiority and a hint of cultural aspirations. Well, something rather more than a hint. The painting is all very country house aristocracy, although to be fair, that’s exactly what it is and I’m rather pleased (as much as anyone can be in the circumstances) that the painting has continued to be kept at the house.

  • Ickworth House – Encyclopædia Britannica Eleventh Edition

    Ickworth House – Encyclopædia Britannica Eleventh Edition

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    I am that dull that I not only have a favourite encyclopaedia, I have a favourite edition….. So, I’m always surprised and delighted to see them in the wild so to speak. Although the National Trust has split this collection at Ickworth House between two rooms which I managed not to be too traumatised about, although I had a strong urge for Liam to put them all together in one place. I don’t have a physical copy of the book at the moment, but there is a free version on-line and here’s just one random section from the complete set of books that Project Gutenburg has transcribed. I can’t remember if I’ve mentioned, but I had some e-mail conversations with Michael Hart, the founder of Project Gutenberg, in what must have been around 1995. Unfortunately, my e-mail archive doesn’t go back that far to read what riveting things I asked him about….. Anyway, I appear to have digressed once again.

  • Bar Billiards World Championships in Sudbury – 2025 Edition

    Bar Billiards World Championships in Sudbury – 2025 Edition

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    Does bar billiards get any more decadent than this? A couple of weeks ago, it was the world championships in Sudbury. If I’m being honest, I’m not always the best prepared at this, and was for a while reliant on young Oscar, the landlord of the excellent White Lion, to use his reserve cue. But, I managed to acquire my own cue in a fit of organisation, albeit still requiring Oscar to bring that one along anyway. He’s a bit like Alex Higgins in many ways is Oscar, I’m more like Terry Griffiths in terms of playing style. Many thanks to John and Pete, both from the new Artichoke team, for working out how to get me to the event and that was hugely appreciated. I’m fully engaged in pre-match gossip and that got me in the right frame of mind to start the day off. Yes, that was a cleverly worked in pun there.

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    Very regal. There are nine tables at the world championships and this year there were 81 entrants in the competition, which is growing in popularity every year. There were players from a few Norwich teams who were taking part in the event to add some extra excitement to proceedings. Even Oscar reminding me at the start that my hairline is receding in a way which isn’t ideal at all didn’t diminish my day’s aspiration and target to just not come last of the 81 players taking part. I had set my expectations quite low in that regard as it’s best to be realistic.

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    The first round of the competition involved groups of three and I was selected to play against Nancy and Lee. The anticipation was palpable, the air thick with the scent of polished wood and the faint clinking of anticipation from the players who had started. Anyway, with the tension racked up, I promptly lost my first match to Nancy so that was bloody sub-optimal, but she deserved the victory. To my slight surprise, I managed to beat Lee which meant that I came second place in the group as Nancy also beat Lee. Also, note the racked up pun in that paragraph. This was also when I heard that Dave Brewer, one of the leading lights of bar billiards in Norfolk, had managed to lose both his first round matches. I thought that if talent of that quality wasn’t winning then the standard must be high.

    The intricacies of the tournament structure then came into play, with the highest-scoring second-place finishers granted passage to the coveted main event. I had someone explain it to me twice before I understood it, but it’s a well thought through system which lets everyone have several games during the day. I then went on to referee several other games including one where Lee H from one of the Norwich teams was playing (who reminds me of Judd Trump, but he won’t read this, so I can write anything there) and I managed to get distracted for the first time when refereeing but the players managed to forgive me. They showed commendable sportsmanship which was handy, although my little lapse was relatively minor. Lee H also hasn’t forgotten a little error I made in a game last year in the team tournament, but he added that Pete (the formidable Danish talent and I can only compare him to Kurt Maflin who I know is Norwegian, but I don’t know any Danish snooker players) from his team had done the same in the singles, so that made me feel slightly less incompetent. It was then time for a rest before the next stage. For the snooker lovers, they’ll hopefully acknowledge that quality pun even though it isn’t relevant to bar billiards…

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    The next stage was another group of three people and I somehow managed to come second in that group, but with a high enough score to make the next round. A quick shout out to the ebullient Pete B from Norwich as well, he’s creating some videos which are phenomenally well made and really show bar billiards in a positive light. I was fascinated by the processes he has to get the score onto the videos, it would all be beyond me, but it’s skilfully done. I might one day appear in one of his videos!

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    That score of 1,620 was a bit of a shock to me as well as I normally bank any break of more than 20. Thanks to Fraser who came to referee the game and also to Julian who came all the way from Norwich to supervise me in case of any bar billiarding drama. Incidentally as some gossip, Julian (who I compare to Joe Davis since for reasons unknown I seem to be doing some snooker analogies here) has played three games of bar billiards now in his lifetime, two of them in recent weeks and the other about 60 years ago or something. I wouldn’t be surprised to see him in the frame for next year’s competition, although I won’t tell him that leaning dramatically over the table to miss an easy shot doesn’t quite count as cardio.

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    Yes, I recorded the score. I’m like that…. Sometimes luck is just on your side though.

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    As an athlete of some measure (and walking 27 miles on Saturday is testament to how I can switch from one sporting activity to another), my completely unexpected continuation in the event meant that I had to rush to Aldi to buy some snacks. And another beer. Actually, on that point, they had three different real ales available, all from Mauldons and they were reasonably priced and well-kept.

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    Unfortunately, although I was close, I didn’t chalk up a victory against Pete M in a relatively low scoring game, but he deserved not only that victory but indeed he went on to win the plate. Note another pun there. I’m not normally one for puns, but I’m on a roll here. Actually, that pun reminds me that I was one of the players who didn’t bring any chalk, but I had remembered the cue so that’ll do.

    This is a really marvellous event, it’s a fun day out and although there’s of course an element of competition, it’s informal and designed to be about having a good time. I was pleased to get as far as I did, so I’m looking forward to having quite a punchy world ranking later in the year. That’ll be going on this blog I can tell you. It’s the team championships later in the year at the same location and I hope to take part in that, although I’ll have to find some people willing to go along with me….. Thanks to all of the organisers for doing what they did, I very much enjoyed it and am very grateful for those who supported me, got me there and cheered me on during the day. And managing to just not come last was the icing on the bar billiarding cake. Did someone mention cake?

  • Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market (2025 Edition) – Week 5 and Falafel and Friends

    Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market (2025 Edition) – Week 5 and Falafel and Friends

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    This week’s visit in the project that James and I have to dine at every food stall at Norwich Market (2025 edition) was to Falafel and Friends.

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    The menu is extensive and is displayed across two boards. The stall is one of the larger ones at the market as it takes up four units and it’s clearly signed so customers know where to order. The stall takes cards and cash, with everything being clean and tidy. There was a friendly and immediate welcome from the team member, with the ordering process being efficient and well managed. I was given a little slip with my order number, although the team member brought it over around six minutes later without needing to be reminded what I had ordered.

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    I took a seat in the small dining area which overlooks the servery and the waiting customers, although it was quiet for the half an hour we were there with just a couple of customers. James had to hide from the staff at Lucy’s Chips, once again, as they will wonder why he’s defected away from them. When seated James excitedly told me his latest joke, which was as funny as usual, but was at least not offensive to anyone in the surrounding area.

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    I went for the Kimchi Dog, which is what I had tried to order when we visited in 2023 but they weren’t available at the time. This was decent, the roll was lightly toasted and the falafel sausage was firm on the exterior and yielded when cut to a softer interior with the falafel having a depth of flavour. I liked the homemade kimchi element under the sausage, although I thought that it could have been a little more powerful in flavour. The Cajun potatoes were crispy and tasted rather pleasant with some lingering heat, whilst the sauce added some extra piquancy to the whole arrangement. The elements worked well together, with the blend of spices and ingredients being thoughtful.

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    James had pancakes and I asked him what he thought, which was something like (and he’ll forgive me if I’ve got his words slightly wrong):

    “The culinary endeavour presented by these Kimchi Pancakes offered a fascinating exploration of flavour and texture. Anchored by a foundation of meticulously homemade kimchi, whose inherent piquant undertones provided a nuanced savour, the pancakes were skillfully crafted with gluten-free flour, resulting in a commendably tender consistency. Visually appealing with a scattering of verdant spring onions and an artful drizzle of vibrant sriracha, the initial gustatory apprehension revealed a complex interplay of umami and spice. While the anticipated savoury notes were indeed present, an unexpected yet intriguing sweetness emerged, creating a paradoxical harmony that, though not entirely conventional, proved to be a noteworthy characteristic.

    Despite this subtle saccharine inclination, the Kimchi Pancakes were ultimately a satisfying and substantial offering. The inherent density and the fibrous nature of the kimchi contributed to a pronounced sense of satiety, rendering them a decidedly filling option. The thoughtful integration of high-quality ingredients, from the homemade kimchi to the gluten-free base, alongside the considered garnishes, elevated this dish beyond mere simplicity. Though the sweetness introduced a minor divergence from typical expectations, the overall experience was one of sophisticated flavour and considerable substance, marking it as a commendable and intellectually stimulating culinary encounter. Oh, and it was a bit sickly.”

    So, that’s all rather lovely. I really enjoyed my Kimchi Dog which was filling and had a range of tastes and flavours. The challenge is that two years this was £7.50 and it’s now £9 for understandable inflationary reasons, but it’s now at a very punchy price point. I can understand their cost base and I’d still come back here again, as the quality of the food is definitely one of the best in the market. I mentioned in 2023 that this isn’t one of the stalls that James and I would have thought to go to before (we are a bit chips based), but it has surprised and delighted once again.

  • Ickworth House – Library

    Ickworth House – Library

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    The library at Ickworth House, the largest of the property’s grand rooms and it is located adjoining the dining room. The name feels slightly misleading, as there are books all over the house and this room doesn’t have that many of them. It’s located at the heart of the Rotunda and is a large and expansive space that was also used as a ballroom. The fireplace was brought from Italy and installed by John Field, all part of the Grand Tour influence.

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    A lot of the books were rebound by Theodora, Lady Bristol, which has rather hidden their true beauty. I don’t like this uniformity, it’s a shame that the original bindings were lost. That’s what happens when books are seen as aesthetic things rather than beautiful in their own damaged right.

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    These great pillars are giant scagliola columns which cost £332 back when the room was laid out in the 1820s. It’s fair to say, that was a lot of money, somewhere around £35,000 in today’s money. At the same time, the bookshelves were installed, designed by the royal furniture makers Banting, France & Co who also supplied some of the other furniture in the room.

    Anyway, onto one of my judgemental comments…. This room was significant in 2015 when the National Trust, under the leadership of Helen Ghosh, made a decision that they wanted people to linger in the room longer and to do that they would take the furniture out and put in bean bags. The mind process is just ridiculous, it’s easy to get people to linger in a room but it’s just as illogical to turn it into a waiting room as it is to fill it with clutter and force visitors to spend longer there as they can’t get around. At the time, the former head curator at the National Trust called the whole thing “misguided” and he seems right to me. After much hilarity from some observers, the National Trust scrapped the new vision after realising it was a bloody stupid one.

    A lot of the blame appears to have been dumped by the National Trust onto Sue Borges, and there’s a photo of the bean bag project at Art History News. Borges claimed none of the 9,500 visitors who had gone through that weekend had criticised the arrangement, but the room guides apparently had a different take according to that article and it’s odd that out of such a large audience no-one had a differing view. Normally the Daily Telegraph have an entirely different view on the National Trust to me, as I’ve apparently gone a bit woke, but I’m pleased that wiser heads prevailed. Right, that’s that complaint out of the way and I very much like that they’re taken the historic items they bought back out of storage and restored them to the room.

  • Ickworth House – Dining Room

    Ickworth House – Dining Room

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    This is the decadent dining room at Ickworth House, one of the major state rooms in the property which was used for grand dining and located next to the library.

    The room is located on the ground floor of the imposing Rotunda and occupies a central position in the property. The whole Rotunda arrangement was initially conceived by its progenitor, Frederick Hervey, the Earl Bishop, as a magnificent gallery, a ‘kunsthaus’ designed primarily to showcase the vast collection of art and antiquities he amassed during his extensive European travels. However, much of this collection was confiscated by Napoleonic troops which was a bit sub-optimal for the whole arrangement. His son, Frederick William, the 5th Earl and later 1st Marquess, inherited the unfinished project and he decided to mostly live in the East Wing, turning this room into one used only for formal entertaining to surprise and delight visitors.

    Until 1910, the food was brought up from the East Wing kitchens which were located around 300 feet away, so meals turned up on trolleys rather colder than ideal, so a new kitchen was built underneath this room when the property was reworked and a dumb waiter installed to link them. The family were still living in the East Wing, so these kitchens remained the day to day ones, meaning the new one was designed to just be a Finishing Kitchen used occasionally when these big formal entertaining dinners were needed.

  • Ickworth House – West Corridor and William Pitt the Younger

    Ickworth House – West Corridor and William Pitt the Younger

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    This sculpture of William Pitt the Younger is located in the West Corridor at Ickworth House, standing next to the sculpture of the 2nd Earl of Liverpool. And, for anyone who remembers (or cares) from that blog post, this sculpture is on a red porphyry scagliola column with a white marble base. Very technical of me…. I don’t much need to write about William Pitt the Younger as he’s hardly an anonymous person.

    Joseph Nollekens (1737-1823) was one of the best known British sculptors during the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. He was born in London to Flemish immigrant parents (his father was a painter) and he trained under the sculptor Peter Scheemakers the Younger and later spent several years in Rome, where he studied classical sculpture and worked for the renowned antiquarian Gavin Hamilton.

    Incidentally, the West Corridor was only completed in 1879 and the Pompeian Room lies at the end of the corridor. The Edwardians painted out all the Victorian artwork on the walls, but much was put back again in 1995.

  • Ickworth House – West Corridor and the Earl of Liverpool

    Ickworth House – West Corridor and the Earl of Liverpool

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    This sculpture of the 2nd Earl of Liverpool is located in the West Corridor of Ickworth House and it was created by the sculptor B.F. Hardenburg in 1816 who had a studio was located near that of the Rome-trained sculptor Sir Richard Westmacott. I’m not an expert in rock, but apparently:

    “The bust is mounted on a white marble socle (a low pedestal) which then sits on a more substantial porphyry scagliola column. Scagliola is a technique for producing imitation marble, and porphyry is a type of hard, purplish-red rock often associated with royalty and antiquity, suggesting the Earl’s high status”

    I’m not sure I’ll remember some of the more complex words in that sentence, something akin to how I struggle to remember the Polish words I try to learn, but there we go.

    Robert Banks Jenkinson, 2nd Earl of Liverpool (1770-1828), has the connection to the property that he was the brother-in-law of the 1st Marquess as he married Louisa Jenkinson, Countess of Liverpool (nee Hervey). And he was also quite good at politics as he became Prime Minister between 1812 and 1827 which is a lengthy spell surpassed only by Sir Robert Walpole and William Pitt the Younger meaning no-one following him has lasted longer in the role. Incidentally, he was the first Prime Minister to wear trousers rather than breeches, so there’s a fun fact. OK, I accept ‘fun fact’ is a bit relative here…. Incidentally, there’s some irony to me that he is known for this fashion statement, but in the sculpture at Ickworth they’ve dressed him up as a Roman wearing a toga.