Category: UK

  • Norwich – Cat and Fiddle (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Cat and Fiddle (Two Julians)

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    The scene at the Cat & Fiddle last week after a fire, caused by a cannabis farm getting a little over-heated on the top floor, caused significant damage to the former pub which had closed in 2011. It had been a pub since 1760 and, a little ironically perhaps, a few years after closing it found itself in the craft beer quarter along with the Malt & Mardle, the Artichoke, the Leopard, the Plasterers and the King’s Head. George Plunkett has a photo of the pub as it looked in 1997.

    In terms of the pub name, there was a letter in 1902 sent to the media regarding the pub’s name.

    “THE CAT AND FIDDLE.

    Sir,—In “The History of Signboards,” by Larwood and Hotter, the following account is given: ” . . . The only connection between the animal and the instrument being that the strings are made from the cat’s entrails, and that a small fiddle is called a kit and a small cat a kitten. Besides, they have been united from time immemorial in the nursery rhyme,

    Heigh diddle diddle,
    The cat and the fiddle.

    Amongst other explanations offered is the one that it may have originated with the sign of a certain Caton Fidèle, a staunch Protestant in the reign of Queen Mary, and only have been changed into the cat and fiddle by corruption; but, if so, it must have lost its original appellation very soon, for as early as 1589 we find, ‘Henry Carr, Signe of the Catte and Fidle, in the Old Chaunge.’ Formerly there was a ‘Cat and Fiddle’ at Norwich, the cat being represented playing upon a fiddle, and a number of mice dancing round her.”

    —Yours, etc., J. C. BURLEIGH.
    13, Plynlimmon-terrace, West-hill,
    Hastings, Nov. 30.”

    Well, there are some views on the history and it must be noted that the pub had a rather impressive sign, still visible in my photo at the top. There have historically been four pubs with the name Cat & Fiddle in Norwich (although nearly nothing is known about two of them), including one on Botolph Street which lasted until 1867, but the Cat & Fiddle Yard lasted until 1967. This map from the 1880s shows the confusion here that there must have been and indeed still us in trying to identify which pub is which when they’re referred to in the media.

    Towards the bottom centre-left is the Cat & Fiddle Yard, although the pub here had closed a few years before. The pub on Magdalen Street is visible towards the centre-top of the map, with the Phoenix Brewery visible located opposite. Anyway, back to the Cat & Fiddle on Magdalen Street which is what I should be focusing on here.

    The building doesn’t look it from the exterior, but it was likely built as a residential property in the early eighteenth century and was then used as a pub from around 1760. The rear range of the pub is older though, perhaps as early as 1600.  Until the early twentieth century the pub was often referred to as the Cat & Fiddle Inn, because accommodation was available on the two upper floors. In the early nineteenth century, the pub advertised itself as a postal house, meaning that they kept horses that could be rented out, which transpired to be the forerunner of Post Offices. The pub was also the location for the annual meeting of the Taverham Association for Prosecuting Felons in the early 1830s and that sounds like an interesting little arrangement.

    In 1859, there was an auction in the pub for the Phoenix Brewery which was located pretty much over the road, although the brewers didn’t own the pub itself. The brewery continued to trade for some time, before the building became the Phoenix Shoe Factory and was then knocked down when they decided to build Anglia Square.  In 1886, the pub was something of a hub for the Conservative Party at an election with numerous posters up, something the other Julian would no doubt be thrilled about. There were numerous allegations of treating voters and the whole matter came to the attention of the courts.

    The pub landlord between 1882 and 1900 was James Alfred Morris, with his son, Leonard James Morris, taking over and announcing in the local press that the pub was under new management. The advert adds:

    “The Cat & Fiddle Inn, livery and bait stables, with ample accommodation for horses and traps, wagonettes and brakes. Traps of every description available for hire, special attention given to all orders for cabs and weddings.”

    Alfred Morris was though summoned to court for driving a horse and cab on St. Benedict’s in May 1904 without using a light, for which he was fined 2s 6d and warned never to do it again. The pub does appear in the media as something of a taxi company, including doing the transport for the Whippet and Terrier Coursing Club when it met out at the Blue Boar in Sprowston. In the 1930s, the pub was used as the headquarters of the Norwich Excelsior Cage Bird Society and earlier in the century, it was the home of the Piscatorial Society (I had to look that up, it’s a thing for fishermen). In 1932, George William Penny of Blackpool, using the pub as his home address, attempted to hold a fair on the street which would include a cake walk and music, but the magistrates were having none of it as the previous time bits of coconut ended up in someone’s garden and the local headteacher was most upset at the whole arrangement with kids running amok.

    There’s a problem today in many hotels where tradespeople leave their van outside whilst they stay overnight, only to find that their tools have been pinched when they get back to go to work. There seems to have been an equivalent in 1912, when it was reported in the Cromer & North Norfolk Post that the warehouse of R Clarke who was the Hickling Carrier based at the pub, found that he had been broken into. He lost linen drapery, handkerchiefs, stockings and a firkin of butter. I was quite intrigued by butter being stored in the firkin, but this is a separate term for a small container of butter rather than my thought that they were using firkins of beer to shove butter in. That did sound like a lot of butter.

    For most of its history, the Cat & Fiddle was owned by Steward & Co or later on Stewart & Patterson, before it was all purchased by Watney Mann. There were once numerous rooms internally, including a snug, but in 1983 these were all ripped out to create one large open space and a bar at the centre. I recall Julian telling me before that this arrangement was required by the magistrates, keen to ensure that the person behind the bar could see all of the premises from where they were standing. Convenient most certainly, but it must have significantly altered the character of the pub. It seems that at this time they changed the door from the corner of the building to something more central, along with some covering up of the fireplaces.

    In 1997, the pub received national attention when Roger James Foster died of injuries which he received whilst in the pub. The pub landlord was arrested and charged with his murder along with a customer, but as they were found not guilty due to insufficient evidence I won’t name them. In the years after that, Tager Inns took the building over and I’ve noted before what happened to this company. In short, they built themselves up as an operator and they were then purchased by London Inn Group, who got themselves into trouble soon afterwards and went bust in some spectacular fashion with the administrators struggling to even work out what pubs they owned. Sub-optimal really.

    Julian has likely visited many times as he’s spent a lot of his many years in pubs, but I visited it just once with my friend Ross, likely nearly around twenty years ago now. I recall that it had something of a reputation for being a vibrant venue and we were offered drugs, but that sort of thing is wasted on me, unless someone comes up with a load of Mullermilch and then I’m the buyer, although that isn’t really a drug and I’m not sure that a flavoured milk based drink from central Europe is usually pushed and touted around Norwich pubs. In June 2011, the pub shut its doors for the final time, by then the building was in need of substantial repair internally and the reputation really wasn’t the best.

    Anyway, I digress. This was a sad loss as a pub, not least because of how the area has since improved and had it stayed open there would have been an opportunity for more custom when the new residential properties open at whatever replaces Anglia Square. I imagine that if it was still trading, this might have become something of a craft beer bar, all rather on-trend. I assume that they will be rebuilding the structure soon enough, but I can’t imagine that it will have a pub on the ground floor again, although I think it’d be rather nice if they did.

  • Coltishall – St. John the Baptist Church (War Grave of Frederick H Hilling)

    Coltishall – St. John the Baptist Church (War Grave of Frederick H Hilling)

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    This is the war grave of Frederick H Hilling, located in the churchyard of St. John the Baptist Church in Coltishall.

    Frederick was born on 30 October 1920 and he’s listed on the 1939 Register as living at 11 Council Houses in Coltishall, living with his father Herbert (a fruiterer), his mother Florence (a housewife), his older brother Thomas (a wood machinist) and his younger brother Bertie (a carpenter). At the time, Frederick was listed as being single and working as a painter and decorator.

    He was a sergeant in the Royal Air Force, service number 1222870. He died on 30 December 1942 at the age of 22 years old when the plane that he was flying (a Consolidated PBY Catalina) crashed at Reaghan Hill in Omagh. Air Crew Remembered notes that those killed included:

    Pilot: Sgt. John Samuel Orr 978191 RAFVR Age 21.
    Pilot: Sgt. Frederick Herbert Hilling 1222870 RAF Age 22.
    Fl/Eng: Sgt. George Wilson Lowther AUS/6240 Age 25.
    Nav: F/O. Robert Mercer Adams J/11950 RCAF Age 20.
    Flight Mech/Air/Gnr: Sgt. John Edward Slade 1233795 RAFVR Age 20.
    W/Op/Air/Gnr: Sgt. William Nichol 1026077 RAFVR Age 21.
    W/Op/Air/Gnr: Sgt. Arthur Horton Perkins 1132720 RAFVR Age 28.
    W/Op/Air/Gnr: Sgt. Charles Bernard Ridge 1198310 RAFVR Age ?
    Air/Gnr: F/O. Matthew James Hall Newman 49003 RAF Age 25.
    Air/Gnr: Sgt. Daniel Ward Yates 1058083 RAFVR Age 21.
    Air/Gnr: LAC Leslie Greenhalgh 1137149 RAFVR Age 22.

    Frederick’s body must have been transported back to Coltishall where his family lived for him to be buried in the church’s churchyard. I did wonder why he wasn’t buried at RAF Coltishall’s church, but he was stationed at RAF Killadeas in Northern Ireland rather than locally. But, the element that intrigues me is that in 1939 this young man was working as a painter in Coltishall, but yet within three years is piloting aircraft.

  • Frettenham – Saint Swithin’s Church

    Frettenham – Saint Swithin’s Church

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    This was the first of the weekend’s churches that Richard and I visited, Saint Swithin’s Church in the North Norfolk village of Frettenham. This is another village that I’ve been near on tens of occasions, but I can’t say that I’ve ever heard of it. This either means that I have a poor memory or the history of Norfolk has so many more pages for me to turn.

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    The current structure dates primarily to the fourteenth century, with fifteenth and sixteenth additions and then some Victorian rebuildings. There was though a church here before this, likely early Norman although this is an Anglo-Saxon settlement and so there might have been something from then. In 1906, the Bishop of Norwich to dedicate the new pulpit, but there had been a fair amount of other work doing including the reroofing and releading of the south aisle and the plastering of the walls, all under the supervision of the architect HJ Green. There was another fund started shortly afterwards to pay for repairs that were needed on the tower.

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    The porch, although the church was unfortunately locked.

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    There was a scratch dial visible on the porch.

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    The tower, likely from around 1460, which looks like quite an expensive structure from when the village was perhaps a little more prosperous.

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    An old door from the chancel and I mentioned at the time to Richard that this part of the church looked like it had been hacked about by the Victorians. That was true, since it has transpired that they entirely rebuilt it in 1869, a project undertaken by the Rector in memory of his deceased wife. It was at this time that they discovered some Roman activity on the site, although this wasn’t religious in nature, it was in the form of evidence of a Roman road under the aisle.

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    Stained glass from the end of the chancel and it looks particularly impressive. It is also recent, having been created by Paul Greener who was a 24 year old working on a project in the 1980s. It was around this time that they discovered that the medieval tiling from around 1400 on the floor was still present.

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    The war memorial which was unveiled in 1921 to commemorate the lives of the ten villagers who had died, with three more names added after the Second World War. The Imperial War Museum lists them as:

    Bloom, P
    Buck, C
    Buck, T
    Cannell, Cecil George
    Cousins, A
    Foster, W
    Garrett, R
    Money, L
    Muskett, C
    Norgate, W
    Revett, A
    Stoliday, F
    Wymer, Sydney George

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    They’re gone for what they refer to a wildlife graveyard. This is ridiculous though as far as I’m concerned, there are people engaged and interested in the gravestones here who are entirely unable to see anything. There was a military gravestone that I wanted to look at, but that obviously wasn’t happening.

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    One tomb is visible in the foliage. But they likely had money, so their gravestone is allowed to be seen.

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    I’m not sure this is going to do much good for the gravestones and this is in an area which has plenty of space for wildlife, so I’m not entirely sure I understand the logic here. This is a relatively remote building, but there was little to engage us here, they’d locked the church, given no history about it and made the churchyard impenetrable. It risks looking like a church for the few (if any), not the many and it’s no great surprise that the Church of England has reported that they have been unable to get enough people together to hold services since Covid, but to be fair to them, this is a church that is a little distant geographically from the village that it once served. It’s also an active benefice, this must be one of their more challenging churches. There seems to be a fair amount of interest inside, so hopefully I’ll get to visit the interior in the future.

  • Wizz Air (London Luton to Warsaw Chopin)

    Wizz Air (London Luton to Warsaw Chopin)

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    And a flight to Warsaw for my last week of dental work and I’ve been very brave by all accounts. For completeness, I thought I’d include the photos of the lounge visits from my Priority Pass card before the flight, as I’m like that….. I received a notification that the aircraft was running around thirty minutes late, which allowed a little extra time for these visits. This is Big Smoke and the chicken tenders and Electric Eye beer which was hazy, hoppy and a bit tropical.

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    The Calamari and pineapple juice at Nolito, primarily as they’d run out of orange juice.

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    And the My Lounge, which was full when I first went but I joined the on-line queue and headed to Nolito instead. Thirty minutes later I received a message saying that I could check-in. The cutlery here was filthy as usual, but everything else felt clean and organised. The staff were friendly and the beer, Birra Moretti, was generic and dull.

    Anyway, I digress.

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    This is the first Wizz Air flight that I can remember where the boarding process was unclear. The priority (not me) and non-priority (me) queues weren’t very clear and a staff member came down after some time to try and resolve the confusion. The gates are poorly marked here rather than it being a Wizz Air issue, but fortunately I arrived early enough to work the whole arrangement out, but I noticed some stressed customers after me.

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    There we go, confirmation that I was in the right queue…..

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    It felt a longer wait than usual to board the aircraft, but nothing unreasonable, and all of the staff seemed helpful if not one that seemed a little frazzled by customers. The aircraft was HA-LVE, which I don’t think that I’ve been on before, an Airbus A321 which has been in the Wizz Air fleet since July 2019.

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    The seating Gods had given me an aisle seat towards the rear of the aircraft, which I felt was very agreeable. Two other customers had been barging past other customers and I just let them past me, they seemed to have an issue with personal space and numerous other customers just let them go by. It transpired that they were sitting next to me on the aircraft, so it was efficient that they had gone ahead of me given that I had the aisle seat. The flight was without issue once again, with the pilot making regular announcements. I think I was asleep for most of the flight, I get easily tired now that I’m 30.

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    And safely into a rainy Warsaw around an hour after the original expected arrival time. As the flight had cost me under £9 with Multi Pass, I was happy with the whole arrangement. The border control was efficient and more personable than I’ve experienced recently, some others ahead me in the queue were being asked the purpose of their visit, but I just got “welcome back to Poland” so perhaps they’ve got fed up with asking.

  • Derby Museum and Art Gallery – Hanson Log Boat

    Derby Museum and Art Gallery – Hanson Log Boat

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    This is what has become known as the Hanson Log Boat, a Bronze Age long boat which was found at the Hanson gravel pit in Shardlow, near to Derby. It was discovered during an archaeological watching brief and they had the problem of transporting it so that it could be preserved. Given the huge weight due mostly to it being waterlogged, they came up with the idea of sawing it into smaller bits, which doesn’t feel entirely optimal but I’m not an archaeologist. They found another log boat at the site a few years later but didn’t want to move another one, so they left it for future generations to resolve the logistical arrangements.

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    As the signage suggests, it’s around 3,400 years old. It’s made out of one large oak tree which would have originally been over ten metres in height.

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    This is the boat’s final cargo, a heap of rock. More precisely, it was Bromsgrove sandstone which was likely being used to strengthen a causeway across the River Trent. Having this cargo still intact does add somewhat to the general intrigue about this boat.

  • Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market (2025 Edition) – Week 16 and Italian Street Food

    Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market (2025 Edition) – Week 16 and Italian Street Food

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    This week’s episode of eating at every food stall at Norwich Market was Italian Street Food, which I rather enjoyed when we last did this in 2023. We battled to the market, fending off everyone who wanted to talk to James which is reaching a ridiculous level now, excited by the thought of something substantial. I think that it’s one of the more filling of the options that are available from the market stalls, although it’s the one that could perhaps do with its own seating area.

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    The menu and there have been relatively small price increases over the last two years, each pizza is now around 50p more expensive. I noted a couple of years ago that it was a busy stall and that was the case again, with numerous delivery orders being sent out as well. I was tempted by the calzones (or whatever the plural of calzone is), maybe next time.

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    The food ordering area and I did get slightly confused where we were supposed to order, but the team member had noticed that and helpfully called over. This is also where the burgers are put together, something else that I really should try in the future. I accept that James and I haven’t been great this year at varying our orders from when we did it before.

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    The pizza oven and the food collection area. There was a wait of around ten minutes for the pizza, but that felt reasonable given it was relatively busy when we were there. The aroma from the pizza felt rather Italian and it was certainly hot enough given that it had just come from the oven.

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    My pepperoni pizza and note that we have moved to the Garnet pub to eat these as I didn’t want any seagull based incidents with an entire pizza. I mentioned to James that I thought that the cheese was just very slightly rubbery and a change from when we last visited, but it’s transpired I noted that last time, so it must just be the cheese mix that they’re happiest with. The pepperoni was decent, although I’ve had ones which are more punchy in flavour, but I liked the leopard spotting on the pizza edges. James mentioned that he thought that there should have been black pepper provided, but it’s transpired he said that last time. We are nothing if not predictable….

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    James went for a margarita pizza as he is on a diet, here’s his artistic looking photo. He liked it, although he didn’t think that the dough was as good as the pizzas that he makes at home. I must admit, he is quite decent at making pizzas, they’re certainly as good as those from Dr Oetker.

    Overall, I was sufficiently surprised and delighted at this, because the prices felt reasonable for the quality and the service was friendly. I’m not going to say that it’s the best pizza that I’ve ever had, but for a lunchtime treat at less than £10, I think it’s entirely agreeable and it’s a hearty option.

  • Derby Museum and Art Gallery – Memorial Plaque of Lieutenant Charles William North Garstin

    Derby Museum and Art Gallery – Memorial Plaque of Lieutenant Charles William North Garstin

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    This is the brass memorial plaque commemorating the life of Charles William North Garstin, 9th Lancers who died on 24 August 1914. The plaque was funded by his father, who had to deal with losing his little boy, and only son, who was aged just 20. There’s more about Charles at https://livesofthefirstworldwar.iwm.org.uk/lifestory/1313008, so I won’t repeat that, but instead I looked up his father, Sir William Garstin.

    Sir William Edmund Garstin, born on 29 January 1849, was a prominent British civil engineer whose work primarily related to public infrastructure in Egypt. He was educated at Cheltenham College and King’s College in London where he specialised in engineering. He started his career in 1872 with the Public Works Department of India, focusing on irrigation projects. In 1885, his expertise led him to Egypt, where he first served as Inspector-General of Irrigation before being promoted to Under Secretary of State for Public Works in 1892. In this role, he was instrumental in overhauling Egypt’s irrigation systems, playing a key part in the design and construction of the Aswan Low Dam which was built between 1898 and 1902. His work also extended to the barrages at Asyut and Esna. Furthermore, Garstin authored significant reports on the hydrography of the Upper Nile and initiated Egypt’s geological survey in 1896.

    After his retirement in 1907, Garstin continued to contribute by serving as a British Government director of the Suez Canal Company. He died on 8 January 1925, and was cremated in London. In recognition of his work, the extinct giant snake, Gigantophis garstini, was named in his honour, which I assume he would have been pleased with unless he really didn’t like snakes. I read numerous obituaries of William, but none of them mention the death of his son in the First World War, although some made reference to his Red Cross efforts. It rather means that I’m left to ponder the quiet, profound sorrow that must have underscored his later years after such a successful career.

  • Derby Museum and Art Gallery – Ukrainian Military Display

    Derby Museum and Art Gallery – Ukrainian Military Display

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    The museum has a display in their military section about the invasion of Ukraine by Russia in 2022 and there’s a note on the display which mentions that “the items on display have been collected by a humanitarian voluntary aid group from England which supports Ukraine.”

    In the photo are:

    (i) A model tank made by Ukrainian service personnel from spent small arms

    (ii) Decorated spent artillery shells

    (iii) A traffic sign from Sudzha, a town in Russia, which Ukrainian forces seized in 15 August 2004, although the Russians took it back on 12 March 2025.

    (iv) Badges worn by Ukrainian armed forces.

    A rather interesting arrangement which is up-to-date and relevant, a reminder of the illegal occupation of the great country of Ukraine that I’m looking forward to being able to return to.

  • Derby Museum and Art Gallery – Fragment of Hog Back Tombstone

    Derby Museum and Art Gallery – Fragment of Hog Back Tombstone

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    This is the fragment of a Viking Hog Back tombstone which dates to around the tenth century. The information panel reads:

    “When complete this was in the shape of a house, with a bear-like beast gripping each end. This type of tomb was the fashion of Norwegian settlers in Yorkshire and Cumbria, but is unusual in the Midlands.”

    They’re quite intriguing things as although they were created by Vikings, they don’t appear in Scandinavia, so they’re Anglo-Scandinavian in origin. It’s made from the local Derbyshire gritstone and it seems quite tough.

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    It was found at St. Alkmund’s Church in Derby in 1844 when they were building a new church. There had though been a religious building on the site since the ninth century, but some bloody idiot decided to pull the church down in the 1960s. Now, this meant that numerous other historic artefacts were discovered which is fascinating from a different viewpoint, but the demolition seems a little odd to me. I’ve followed the arguments that took place in the press in the 1960s and it appears that the sheer incompetence comes down to Geoffrey Allen, the Bishop of Derby. I say this because the congregation, parochial council members and local residents seemed bloody furious and the church had to respond saying that, yes, the Church of England had agreed the demolition at meetings that Allen was present at. They struggled to provide any defence of what Allen had been doing and I’m struggling to understand why they were so willing to lose a location that had been home to a church for over 1,000 years, even conceding that the steeple was falling down. Anyway, I digress here.

  • Derby Museum and Art Gallery – It’s Just a Brick

    Derby Museum and Art Gallery – It’s Just a Brick

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    I accept that this is just a brick and I really need to get out more, but this is not just a brick, it’s a Roman brick. Ignore the stuff placed on the brick, more on that later, but the Romans were the pioneers of mass production of bricks and they did it in some style. As for what the Romans did for the people of Derby, well, they built them a lovely fort in AD50 although they then decided to move their operations north and so they demolished it. However, by that point they had already built another fort at Little Chester and they didn’t demolish that one. Having noted all that, this brick is apparently from Tripontium which is about 40 miles away, but it’s a little bit of Romano-British culture. I find it intriguing to see bits of Roman brick when they appear in other buildings as the stuff seems to have lasted longer than great chunks of what they built in the 1970s. I won’t mention Anglia Square in Norwich….