This, for me, is the best part of the renovation of Norwich Castle and it’s the introduction of the Gallery of Medieval Life in conjunction with the British Museum. There feels like a massive step-up in terms of the curatorship here, the signage and explanation panels are just so much better than in the rest of the museum. There are lots of delights here in terms of the exhibits, more of those in other posts.
There are numerous structural things that are also in this exhibition space, which include the castle’s original well.
As my feet show, you can step on the glass which covers the well. It’s no longer possible to throw money into the well [I’ve realised this isn’t true], that’s a change with the new renovation and it doesn’t impact me as I’m too tight to throw money down a hole. The money used to be donated to Friends of the Norwich Museums and they got several hundred pounds every year, so I’m not sure if they get money from other collection boxes instead.
Very pretty.
The well is 36 metres deep and it’s quite an impressive sight looking down. It was once 65 metres deep in the medieval period as it ran through more of the castle structure, allowing access to clean water.
This is a carving in the stone near to the new entrance of Norwich Castle Museum’s redesigned keep. The museum notes that it dates to the thirteenth century and has been retouched many times, so although they don’t know who it was, they suspect it was a revered local religious figure. I assume that there’s a possibility that it’s the Virgin Mary, but it’s quite possible that no-one will ever know. It’s nicely preserved though and very visible to visitors to the museum.
One huge improvement here at Norwich Castle with the extensive works is that the battlements have been opened up permanently, rather than only accessible for certain tours. The lift was already broken, which is entirely sub-optimal for those with accessibility needs, with no indication on when this will be resolved. One thing I find a little odd is that they’ve put glass between the battlements so it’s quite hard to look through clearly unless you’re tall, there’s a fair few negative reviews about that already.
I very much enjoyed looking over Norwich, there’s Rose Lane towards the bottom of the photo on the right, with Norwich railway station in the centre-right.
Norwich railway station.
Rose Lane and this was a useful time to test my phone’s zoom. At maximum zoom, I could read the Hollywood Cinema sign clearly on the soon to be demolished Anglia Square, so it’s fair to note that there were excellent views.
Mousehold Heath towards the rear.
The soon to be demolished Anglia Square at the left on the rear, and the white building is where I was able to zoom in on the cinema sign.
Norwich City Hall.
Looking from Castle Meadow at the front through to Norwich Market.
Norwich Market.
I’ll return to the museum a few more times in the year I imagine, hopefully to get more photos across Norwich when it’s a bit brighter. But, I am impressed at the work they’ve done to open up the battlements, that feels a real positive and I hope they can make it fully accessible again soon.
As I’ve managed to get an Art Fund pass at a discounted price, there will now be a year’s worth of posts about places that I can get in for free. One of them is Norwich Castle, recently re-opened following a substantial refurbishment and renovation. More on this later, but the changes weren’t as bad as I expected and there are some definite positives about the investment that has been made here.
Having noted that, this room seems to me though as something of an incoherent mess in terms of the history, it’s unclear to me what they’re trying to show here. They’ve put a throne into the chapel and the relatively undamaged original sanctuary is in the corner. I’m struggling to believe that the chapel would have once had a large throne looking at the window and no other furniture or religious paraphernalia other than a lectern. I know that we wouldn’t have had rows of pews in here, but the layout seems odd to me.
I’m also unsure why they’re suggesting that the Caen stone was painted white so it would have had the appearance of Victorian toilets. Unless this is their interpretation of what new Caen stone would have looked like, but that seems aspirational in terms of the brightness. In other locations it was just left as it was, it’s an off-white or cream coloured stone anyway and so why would they paint an interior wall with what I assume the castle is suggesting is limewash? They might have wanted to use bright colours in the way that Norwich Cathedral was decorated, but I’m not convinced they chose white. But, I’m sure they’ve done this for a reason, but it’s a shame they haven’t explained anyway (either in the room or online) their logic here.
The museum might have been better trying to use graphics to show what the room might have looked like, I just find it unlikely the Normans made their chapel in Norwich different to everywhere else. AI can be very over-rated, but I ran the images of this room through Gemini and ChatGPT, both of them concluded that this was a medieval function room where visitors would have been welcomed by the gentry. This is what it looks like to me, I’m very much struggling to understand this as a chapel layout.
Anyway, that aside.
This is the sanctuary, so the original Norman architects were using this as the chapel’s altar although it’s at an odd angle. But, when you’re the King, you have the option to do things as you want.
I can’t find out whether this is entirely new stained glass for the new project, but it’s rather beautiful.
What the project has delivered is some beautiful lighting so that graffiti is easily visible, here’s what I assume is Mary.
There’s certainly a variety of graffiti here, the museum thinks these date from a period of over several hundred years.
Another day, another trip by train to the airport. I went from Norwich via Cambridge due to work being completed on the Norwich to Ipswich line, with a change at King’s Cross railway station. Surprisingly, the first section of the journey wasn’t that busy, despite it being on a two carriage train that can be really quite packed.
I picked up my free Greggs sausage roll and then boarded the Thameslink train to Luton Airport Parkway.
At Big Smoke, the chicken tenders and freshly squeezed orange juice were a beautifully paired meal. Who needs anything more decadent than this? This is always a handy restaurant as it’s included with Priority Pass and they have plenty of power outlets to charge devices.
Mine was the 19:35 flight to Warsaw, all looking on time. It’s not a bad timed flight, it gets into Warsaw at around 22:30 their time, which is fine as long as I get out of there by the time the last train leaves at 23:45.
A pint of Menabrea and some olives at Nolito.
Some bloody awful non alcoholic Heineken alongside some odd chicken thing at My Lounge. Nice teas though, alongside the usual dirty cutlery. I’ve noticed they’ve had a few negative reviews about the cutlery, it feels odd that they haven’t made any effort to fix this.
Boarding was announced early and then they were swiftly dealing with passengers at the gate. As usual, it was clear where non-priority passengers such as myself needed to go, I like clarity.
Boarding and the seating Gods had given me a middle seat which is never ideal, but wasn’t too problematic on this flight. The aircraft was 9H-WDX, an aircraft that I have been on before when doing this journey the other way around.
The flight was very busy with nearly no free seats. I will write the same as ever about the flight, which is that the crew were friendly, the service was efficient and the pilots made clear and appropriate announcements.
There wasn’t much of a wait at border control at Warsaw airport, so I made good time and was able to get a train to the city centre. It was then just a ten minute walk to the Novotel hotel where I was spending the night, which is one of my favourite accommodation options in Europe.
I had only decided a couple of days before what I’d be doing this week and I ended up on a route that was perhaps not entirely well thought through, but there was adventure and so that’s sufficient to keep me functioning.
This is a rather nice 1950s bus shelter that has sat next to Sheringham Railway station from when it was actually part of the national network and not a heritage railway. It’s not staggeringly beautiful and its glass has fallen out, but the council decided that it was too near the pavement. I tend to find bus stops near the pavement are helpful, but I don’t suppose I fully understand these modern methods that the council like.
In a botched consultation operated by Norfolk County Council they consulted with the locals about how they were going to do mostly what they wanted anyway. The locals were allowed some minor ideas, but this was not a consultation that was designed to consult, it could be argued that it was solely done to tick some boxes.
Was there an easy solution? Of course, put in a new accessible bus shelter, complete the works and maintain the former bus shelter for some other purpose or use.
Paul, a brave and courageous campaigner.
The council could have responded to local opposition by coming to look at what was happening to try and resolve the issue. Well, they could have done, but they didn’t. They did this.
Here is local money being spent for the people.
Sheer incompetence from the council saw metal barriers put up around the site and putting pedestrians at risk. It was only locals warning the council of the sheer danger that led to the council providing fencing.
The town council, as the owners of the bus shelter, had a vote and told the county council to withdraw their bailiffs. This annoyed the council, so they’ve decided to dump the chaos they’ve caused on the local community and scrap the rest of the project. The cost of this work was scheduled to be £580,000, although much of this was ring-fenced from Government funding for bus improvement schemes.
Brave locals fighting for their community have ensured that the bus shelter has been saved. Keir Starmer, the Prime Minister, has become involved and suggested that perhaps the county council should resolve the mess that now exists. We’ll see what happens now.
After a comfortable enough lounge visit, I meandered to the gate to take me back to London Luton. I do this on a regular basis, but I have to credit Wizz Air with one of the most efficient boarding processes that I’ve seen, it’s always clear where to stand which is something that other airlines seem unable to deliver.
Just a little pause though as we were waiting for the bus to take us to our aircraft. This is the British Airways A319 aircraft G-EUPJ which is decorated in the old BEA (British European Airways) livery. It’s perhaps one of the most beautiful looking liveries I’ve seen, a marvellous idea of BA to use this piece of history.
I was on board the rather more modern Wizz Air branded aircraft, registration 9H-WDM. We arrived there on a bus to add a little extra tension to the whole arrangement.
The seating Gods had given me an aisle seat near the centre of the aircraft and I had pledged not to swap seats after the debacle of getting to Venice and missing out on a goodie bag…..
Views of Venice over the water are visible from the airport.
Anyway, I board and I’m immediately asked by a passenger if I’d swap my seat to let an elderly couple sit together. After checking there were no goodie bags in the seat back, I agreed, although I would prefer that people book a seat if they really want to sit next to each other to avoid all this faffing about.
Incidentally, this reminds me of a Wizz Air flight recently, and I’ve forgotten which one, where a couple asked a lady in the window seat if she’d move so the husband could sit with his wife and child. The husband said that he was in seat 15B which was “near the window”. That’s one of the more arrogant statements that I’ve heard, putting emotional pressure to get a lady to move from her window seat to a middle seat. For avoidance of any doubt, I would have absolutely refused.
Safely back at Luton Airport. The flight was peaceful, I didn’t miss out on any goodie bags and the service was efficient as ever.
And the ever exciting 20 minute walk to Luton Airport Parkway, a railway station which amuses me as perhaps the most unhappy with the new station manager that I’m aware of, the staff appear to be in permanent uproar there for reasons unknown. Anyway, the flight was £8.99 and another bargain from my perspective.
After a peaceful night at the Ibis Styles Bucharest Airport, I decided to walk to the airport which is about a fifteen minute walk. Not all of the pavement was like this shall we say, but it was an easy walk and for those without baggage it’s not worth using a shuttle. Although I might not be the best touchpoint on this as I think that anything involving under one hour of walking isn’t worth getting transport for.
The Gendarme Heroes Monument at the entrance to the airport.
I had some minor issues finding my way into the airport terminal, which is evidently not designed for people walking there, but here’s the main entrance. It transpired that this was the arrivals terminal, but there is a connection via an internal corridor to the departures terminal.
As I had departed too early for the hotel’s free breakfast, they had instead given me a drink, yoghurt, croissant and I saved the banana and yoghurt drink for the airport. There’s no lounge here, so this just had to suffice.
I’m sure that the airport will look lovely when the work is finished, but it feels a bit like a building site at the moment.
The departures terminal.
There’s my flight, the 07:10 to London Luton.
There wasn’t much of a check of my passport at the airport, but the security there were all friendly and I was able to find a quiet spot to wait for my flight. There isn’t a great deal of space here, but the gate staff did their best to ensure that passengers weren’t left waiting.
This photo is from the arrival at Luton Airport, as there was an air bridge so I couldn’t get an external photo. The seating Gods had put me in 34F, which is a window seat, so that worked nicely for me. The aircraft is 9H-WNP and for about the tenth flight in a row, I have to report that I haven’t been on this one before either.
I was asleep for most of the flight, but everything I saw was well managed, professional and efficient. I really don’t understand how people have issues with Wizz Air on such a regular basis, as I find their cabin crew and pilots to be as good as on any other airline.
And that was the end of this trip, which started on my first birthday weekend with Liam, Ross, Richard and I going to Cardiff. After travelling to Italy, Slovenia, Albania, Greece and Romania (albeit the last three quite quickly) I had a train back to Norwich and some happy memories of a very lovely trip, with thanks to Steve, Bev and Susanna joining me in Italy and Slovenia.
For those confused where we are in my riveting blog, I’m now going back a couple of weeks as I had to get from Cardiff to Ljubljana using whatever means possible, but I could only get flights costing £9 with Wizz Air Multi Pass. My first expedition was to get to Rome, then to work the rest out afterwards. There’s my flight, the 21:40.
A quick visit to Big Smoke and due to increasing prices of what is covered by Priority Pass, I’ve cut down to pineapple juice and chicken tenders. All very healthy.
Calamari and pineapple juice at Nolito and I’m never entirely surprised and delighted by their calamari so I’m going to shake things up and change this order up next time. I should probably get out more….
Oh great, it’s nearly Christmas.
The Rome flight was delayed by around 40 minutes, meaning that it was the last one out of Luton Airport in the evening. This means that everyone sitting here was going to Rome, unless they were perhaps muddled up.
It’s all happening now!
Here we are, the last flight out of Luton Airport.
Boarding and this is aircraft registration HA-LGV, seemingly another one (from my extensive records that aren’t anywhere near complete) that I haven’t been on before.
There were quite a lot of sleepy passengers on this flight, which was around 80% full. As ever with Wizz Air, the flight was well managed, the aircraft was clean, the crew were friendly and absolutely nothing went wrong. There’s a lot to be said for uneventful flights. The seating Gods gave me an aisle seat for this flight, so that was handy.
We all disembarked from the front of the aircraft as they wanted to use a jet bridge for this late arriving flight, but then there was no-one to unlock the door. So I stood here for a few minutes.
At this point it was decided that we’d be getting a bus to the terminal and this is always a slight faff. But, I was in no rush.
Safely in Rome and I got to use the semi-automated digital border control system for the first time, as Poland doesn’t seem to be using it fully yet. There was quite a queue for this, but it was all painless.
A helpful service…. I sat here for a while as the baggage reclaim, which I never have a need to use, had some power points and I wanted to be fully charged for my next little adventure. By fully charged I mean my devices, I was not fully charged as this was a sleepless overnight onwards expedition.
The pub stop en route from Cardiff to Luton was the JD Wetherspoon operated The Bear in the fine town of Maidenhead. This was all rather appropriate because this is where Liam grew up, although he didn’t take up drinking until he became friends with me, I suspect I drove him to it. But, anyway, this pub is also listed in the Good Beer Guide so that’s another box ticked.
It’s quite a spacious arrangement and using the chain’s history notes about the pub name, which is one of the few that they haven’t named themselves.
“The name of this historic inn was perpetuated when it became a Wetherspoon pub in 2010. The Bear has been on this site since 1845. Previously, it was at the corner of Park Street and High Street. The Bear is recorded in 1489, when the landlord charged ‘an unlawful price for provisions’. In the early 19th century, it was one of the town’s main coaching inns, but was converted into a private house in 1845.”
The real ale selection and there’s a couple of interesting options there, as well as the Greene King IPA for those who want something to clean their shoes with or something.
My now obligatory carpet photo.
I was slightly surprised that this pub is on the cheapest price band for the chain, I thought being on the Elizabeth Line into London they might have gone for some premium pricing. There are our drinks on the screen and these were made promptly, but not served before the food arrived. As we were sitting by the counter I asked if we could possibly just take the drinks as the food arrived, with the team members helpfully facilitating that.
This might have been the third day in a row that I had this…. Well, actually, it was the third day in a row, but I like their steak pie and especially so when it’s just over £7 including a drink. The included drink is the Eye of the Tiger from Wilde Child, a very agreeable beer which had a taste of marshmallows and chocolate, certainly verging on decadent.
As it’s a JD Wetherspoon pub, I feel the need to look at the online reviews and this venue is rated around average for the chain.
“On the 8th Nov 2025 I attended the rememberance day in maidenhead as I am a veteran with 24 years service. My partner was away so I brought the dog with me. There where lots of veterans outside the weatherspoons so i decided to buy a pint there. I had my medals and could be clearly identified as a veteran. On buying a pint I was then approached by a staff member and told that I would not be served as my dog wasn’t a service dog. I wasn’t even allowed to stand outside with a drink which i offered to do. The staff where very polite. Mr Weatherspoon, if it wasn’t for veterans then your pub wouldn’t exist or you would now be serving German beer. Shameful, stupid rules Mr Weatherspoon. You should be ashamed.”
Just about every JD Wetherspoon pub is littered with reviews about why they should be exempted from their dog ban, including how well behaved it is, how quiet it is, how it wouldn’t cause any trouble. They’ve made it simple by just banning all non-assistance dogs, I’m not entirely sure why Tim Martin should be ashamed.
“I recently visited this pub and unfortunately had a poor experience. After ordering and paying for a drink, I was informed that dogs were not allowed on the premises due to pub regulations. While I understand and respect their policy, this information was not clearly displayed, leading to an unnecessary purchase and inconvenience. Furthermore, the pub’s cleanliness left much to be desired. I recommend they make their dog policy much more visible at the entrance to prevent similar situations for other customers.”
In fairness, there isn’t a sign out the front about this, or there wasn’t when we visited anyway.
“Ordered a Stella for £4.37, poured half and then left me for 5 minutes to change the barrel and then brought the warm half a pint back and proceeded to continue to fill. I asked for a fresh pint and he wasn’t pleased that a customer could do that!!! Cheap pub but don’t expect a great experience”
I suspect quite a few pubs would be surprised that a customer would ask for a keg beer to be changed in such circumstances. I’ve removed the unnecessary comment about the team member…..
“Ordered food and had it delivered @8.30 only to be told by the doorman that we needed to leave by 9pm because we had children. The manger was unsympathetic and said half an hour was ample to eat food! When asked if he had children he said no!! To which I replied how do you expect children to eat within half an hour especially those with additional needs! No compensation received”
It does sound ample 🙂
“Absolutely disgusting service from the male server and manager on shift this evening. I ordered food through the app – I asked if the server could provide me with allergen information regarding the side salad sauce (I have coeliac disease and this is not on the allergen menu) the server refused to help me in any way, saying that it’s “company policy” to not give out any allergen information. I then approached the bar where I heard him bad mouthing me to the manager who said “well I’m not going to give her any information either”. In the end I asked to see the sauce bottle and the manager acted as if this was a huge inconvenience rather than a simple task. Ridiculous.”
It’s not on the allergen information charts as it’s not an allergen, team members aren’t going to be easily able to give advice on this and that seems to me a very sensible and responsible company policy.
“Unfortunately its hard to give a good opinion on this pub as it’s damaged in reputation for losing its lively atmosphere and hosting a good night out.”
I suspect the chain quite liked losing its lively atmosphere to be fair.
“Slow service but the beer used to be good at this Wetherspoons pub. Tables never too clean, and always a bit sticky. Now that it lost its good beer guide place 2018 no point to bother. Go to Coppa Club, it is only up the road.”
At least it’s back in now 🙂
Anyway, I digress once again. I rather liked it here, it was busy, the team members were friendly, the service was efficient, the prices are firmly towards the lower end of the scale and the beer range was entirely acceptable. All quite lovely.
