Category: France

  • Limoges – Limoges Cathedral

    Limoges – Limoges Cathedral

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

    The city’s Cathedral is Saint-Etienne (or St. Stephens in English) which was constructed between the thirteenth and nineteenth centuries. The building is Gothic in design and the only other section of the Cathedral built outside this period is the Romanesque crypt, although this isn’t accessible to visitors.

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    The bell tower of the cathedral was separated from the main part of the building until the late nineteenth century.

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    There was an event taking place, so the external view was partly blocked by seating. The part of the building is from the late thirteenth century, the section in the middle is from the sixteenth century and the section on the right (excluding the bell tower which is late fourteenth century) is from the nineteenth century. It’s a complex building, but at least, and unlike Narbonne Cathedral, they completed it.

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    The glorious nave of the cathedral.

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    The choir section of the cathedral dates from the late thirteenth and early fourteenth century, although this is where the earlier eleventh century construction started.

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    The Chapel of Sainte-Germaine, which also has some original wall paintings from the thirteenth century.

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    The cathedral’s main organ and the impressive sculpted rood screen, which has been moved from its usual place in the building.

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    Statues missing from the rood screen.

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    Both the detailed stonework and the missing sculptures and general damage can be seen on the rood screen.

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    So colourful….

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    The east transept, which is a little narrower than the west.

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    The Chapel of Sainte Philomene.

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    The Chapel of Saint Martial.

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    More stained glass.

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    There’s evidence above this arch, visible by the change in the stonework, of how initially it was going to have a squarer design.

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    The tomb of Jean de Langeac, an important sixteenth century diplomat and church official. He was the individual who commissioned the rood screen and he also spent a little time in England in the court of King Henry VIII.

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    The tomb of Bernard Brun, a former bishop of Limoges.

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    After an interesting hour in the cathedral, which was nearly empty, I ventured back out into the hot, bright sun. It was a particularly non-touristy cathedral with no shop, no parts were chargeable and that made it feel just that bit more authentic. There was plenty of signage around the building, although it was all in French, with the exception of a useful and information leaflet in English.

  • Limoges – Walk from Airport

    Limoges – Walk from Airport

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

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    Limoges is the first airport that I can remember visiting that has managed to provide no bus, rail or tram link for its passengers. There is a bus link, but there are only three a day and they’re not at all timed to the movement of the aircraft. The taxi drivers at the airport must be very pleased indeed at the local bus company, as that’s the only option to get around for those who aren’t hiring cars.

    Well, other than for those people who walk. I’m getting the impression that there aren’t many who do that, as no-one from my flight seemed to feel the need to walk the six miles into the city centre. Anyway, what’s the point of being a member of the LDWA (long distance walkers) if I don’t walk from time to time?

    So, I walked.

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    Although there isn’t much pavement for the first two miles, there also isn’t really much traffic. The first part of the walk is alongside a busy road, but they’ve carefully added an area to walk on the grass, so it’s safe.

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    There were lots of cows in the fields.

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    The view on the walk was certainly rather pleasant, lots of countryside and some lakes.

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    And some streams, all very lovely. Just under half-way through the walk is a town where there are numerous small shops. There was also a church which I would have visited, but there was a funeral going on when I was there, so it didn’t feel entirely appropriate.

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    When reaching the city, one of the first sites that it’s necessary to cross is one of the city parks.

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    And after going through a park there’s a woodland walk, which given the hot temperature, was very welcome indeed. As can be seen from the photo, it was sunny.

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    A look back at the woodland area, which is surprisingly dense for such a relatively central area in a city.

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    This is the last photo before I arrived at the hotel, a view of the main railway line which goes into Limoges. The entire walk takes around two hours, although I took a little longer as I decided to sit down every now and then to cool down from the heat. It’s not the most sheltered of walks from the sun in places….

    For those not in a rush, it’s a very walkable route into Limoges, especially for those who don’t want to pay the €24 taxi fare.

  • Basel (Saint-Louis in France) – Aparthotel Adagio Access Saint-Louis Bâle (Accor Hotels)

    Basel (Saint-Louis in France) – Aparthotel Adagio Access Saint-Louis Bâle (Accor Hotels)

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    I haven’t stayed at an Adagio before, but this one was showing as the cheapest Accor option in the area. The Adagio Aparthotels brand is offered in three distinct tiers, Adagio as the standard option, Adagio Access for budget-friendly stays and Adagio Premium for a more upscale experience. No surprise I was visiting an Adagio Access, I know where I stand in the hotel hierarchy….

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    After the faff of getting here, I was pleased to see the welcome gift of crisps and water, a nice little gesture. The check-in had been a little convoluted as the person in front decided to ask far more questions than I felt necessary about the hotel, but as patience is one of my middle names, I just stood and tried not to look too passive aggressive whilst standing there waiting. The team member at reception was helpful and engaging, with everything feeling well managed here. Unusually, I was given an actual key to get into the room rather than a card, it felt like something of a throw-back…

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    The bedroom area of the room, with everything being clean and organised.

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    The kitchen area, with the desk and bathroom at the rear of the photo. I didn’t need to use the kitchen area at all, as I decided to eat my crisps from the packet rather than from a plate, but I noticed from signage that they would be charging if the washing up wasn’t done.

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    The view from the window over semi-rural France. It’s located in the French village of Saint-Louis and is literally a one minute walk from the Swiss border and it’s easy to meander into Basel from the hotel.

    As I rather like doing this, since I don’t get out much, I thought I’d have a little look at the reviews to see if there was anything exciting.

    “I was going to take a shower and didn’t have hot water, tried to call the reception and they wouldn’t answer the telephone. Had to go there in a towel.”

    No, there is no logical requirement here to walk to reception in a towel.

    “Catastrophic. Having to leave the hotel at 7:00 a.m., I asked if it would be possible to have a simple breakfast made for me, namely a small coffee and a glass of orange juice. I was told that breakfast opened at 7:30 a.m., period.”

    I’m not sure that being a refused a breakfast before they were open is “catastrophic” especially when each room has a little kitchen, but each to their own….

    “Well situated, but disastrous bedding. Definitively NOT recommended for side sleepers as the beds are as hard as a rock.”

    Disastrous?

    “We reserved 2 rooms at this Aparthotel when flying from Denmark to Basel. Unfortunately, our flight was cancelled at the last minute after we already traveled to Copenhagen Airport and got our boarding passes. We had no options at that point but to cancel our trip to Switzerland, France, and Germany, because we had to return to the USA soon. On top of this great disappointment, the hotel would not cancel the room and refund our money. We called as soon as the flight was cancelled, which was late, but they were unwilling to make any adjustment. I understand that was their policy, but in a situation like this, I would expect better customer service, rather than hiding behind their policy.”

    I liked that the hotel reminded them that they had booked non-refundable rooms and that their policy was common in the industry, adding “the cancellation of your flight was not our doing” and they’re not wrong there….

    As they’re designed as apartments for slightly longer visits, I doubt that many guests usually stay for just one day at these hotels, but I suspect they are sometimes quite cheap as they have gaps between bookings that they can’t easily fill. Anyway, it’s not really a brand within the Accor chain that I’d prioritise in terms of staying as I don’t need kitchens and the like, but if it looks like an affordable option I suspect that I’ll be there again…..

  • Carcassonne Day Three : Return Home on Ryanair

    Carcassonne Day Three : Return Home on Ryanair

    I confess I’ve managed to take rather too long to post the final segment in this riveting blog series, my two loyal readers must have given up. Anyway, here it is…..

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    Not travelling nearly full-time has meant I’ve got a little behind with technology, so I was reliant on McDonald’s for my device charging requirements. I accept the Heineken is sub-optimal, but one day McDonald’s will stock the finest craft beer instead. Every major battle is won one step at a time. Not that I’m equating craft beer to a war, I’d better add that now.

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    After hours of walking, it was just a few minutes to get from the McDonald’s back to Carcassonne Airport. We cut it fine and only arrived three hours before the flight.

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    It’s not exactly Singapore Changi Airport with the number of flights leaving the airport.

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    Lovely weather, although it hadn’t been too bad on our traipse back to the airport as we didn’t want to pay for a bus. Thrifty.

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    As usual, as I worried about missing the flight home, I made Liam rush to the seating area in case all the seats were taken. It transpired that my rushing about was perhaps unnecessary, but Liam didn’t say anything.

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    At least we were early. The boarding process with Ryanair is nearly always efficient and stress free, with this journey being no exception. I’m sure that there’s a lot other airlines can learn from the simplicity of the queueing arrangement which minimises faffing around.

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    It’s all happening now. The seat Gods were favourable, once again, to Liam and I. We didn’t pay for seating but were given aisle and window seats again.

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    The aircraft was G-RUKN, a Boeing 737, which they’ve been operating since 2010 meaning it’s one of the older planes in their fleet. The flight was nearly full, but boarding was fast and none of the passengers annoyed me, so that was another result.

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    I never really tire of flying over London, although the photos are a little grainy as the aircraft’s windows weren’t exactly sparkling and I’m also not exactly David Bailey (who I just checked and he’s still alive, he’s doing well).

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    And safely back into London Stansted. This last post has been something of an anti-climax given I have nothing exceptionally interesting to note, but sometimes it’s best to not have too much adventure.

    Many thanks to customer Simon who kindly picked us up from the airport and took us back to the pub, all very much appreciated. And a very lovely weekend, even though it has, as usual, taken me months to finish writing about. We agreed that we must do this again  🙂

  • Carcassonne Day Three : Nazi Atrocities

    Carcassonne Day Three : Nazi Atrocities

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    We noticed this plaque on our canal walk and it relates to the massacre of 21 people during the German withdrawal from Carcassonne on 20 August 1944. It seems a cruel way for an innocent person to die, so near to the liberation of the area and it also seems that it has taken some determined locals to get this plaque to be located here. There’s more about the whole incident at http://musiqueetpatrimoinedecarcassonne.blogspirit.com/archive/2013/08/19/le-20-aout-1944-quai-riquet.html.

  • Carcassonne Day Three : Marvellous Parking

    Carcassonne Day Three : Marvellous Parking

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    If you’re disabled, have kids or just don’t want to walk into the road, this feels sub-optimal parking.

  • Carcassonne Day Three : Canal Walk

    Carcassonne Day Three : Canal Walk

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    We felt that we had, in part at least, completed Carcassonne and so we thought we’d better do some walking to see a little more of the city. We opted to walk down the Canal du Midi which seems to have the suitable amount of low-level adventure to it. When it was constructed in the seventeenth century it was known as the Canal Royal en Languedoc, or Royal Canal, but the French Revolution saw an end to that arrangement and it took its current name. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it’s an impressive piece of construction.

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    The start of the walk didn’t look entirely decadent.

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    But the canal itself was beautiful and after Liam momentarily tried to walk us along the Amazon side of the canal, we switched to the rather more sedate paved side. We weren’t intending to clamber through too much shrubbery, not now I’m over 30 years old.

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    It soon became a peaceful walk, although as Liam pointed out, we were walking away from the airport and that was already an hour’s walk from the city centre. But, being brave, we continued with the mission. It’s not exactly a straight line mission as I like watching on YouTube, but I don’t claim this blog offers cutting edge adventure entertainment. Well, maybe one day.

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    The head navigator.

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    An engineering board. As Liam is a civil engineer I took particular interest in this to show my engagement.

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    Our head navigator successfully led us miles out of the area. I was very brave and didn’t panic once.

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    It started to rain, which I considered to be sub-optimal.

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    Some sort of pleasure boat drifting down the river.

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    And then we started the walk back.

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    The head photographer in action. It was a most pleasant way to spend a couple of hours and was at least some exercise, as I need more of that at the moment.

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    And to show the scale of the project, the canal a little further down.

  • Carcassonne Day Three : Breakfast at Au Péché Mignon

    Carcassonne Day Three : Breakfast at Au Péché Mignon

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    This is a bit sub-optimal, I’m off on another trip this weekend and I haven’t quite gotten around to finishing writing up the last riveting trip for my two loyal blog readers. Best I start to tackle that issue…. I thought a healthy breakfast would be in order, so Liam set off navigating us to Au Péché Mignon. There was the usual sub-optimal “we’ll be there in three minutes” when we were evidently 28 minutes away, but I didn’t say anything as I’m good like that.

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    It was the nearest that we could find to Greggs and my first impressions were positive.

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    It was Liam’s turn to order and he had to navigate that I wanted a selection of random items. The service was friendly and there were some locals characters in the bakery, it felt a little bit like a Wetherspoons. It made us wonder where Wetherspoons customers would go if there was no Wetherspoons. One of the more important questions of our age some might say.

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    The coffee and food was suitably delicious, the apple turnover went well with the coffee.

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    I got the last lemon meringue tart, perhaps made with slightly artificial ingredients, but I’m not picky. It was all keenly priced and there were a multitude of deals available for those who had the energy and enthusiasm to work them out. We then left to go marching out into the rain of Carcassonne, knowing that we had quite a walk back to the airport.

  • Carcassonne Day Two : Carcassonne at Night

    Carcassonne Day Two : Carcassonne at Night

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    After the meal when I feeling rather more plump than I considered entirely optimal, I had started to take some photos of the town at night, but they didn’t feel sufficiently exciting so we thought that we’d return to the hotel.

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    A photo of the city before we left. Half-way back, we noticed that they’d turned the lights on to illuminate the whole castle, so we thought we’d traipse back to have a look.

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    We walked down to the bridge, but I thought it’d be a better idea to get some photos somewhat nearer.

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    Liam seemed excited by this as he wanted to climb a hill , but I’m less excited by such concerns.

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    We found a path that took us nearer to the castle.

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    I tried to be artistic, whilst recognising the limitations of my photographic skills.

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    My two loyal readers must be riveted at these photos, which are quite similar and taken near to each other.

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    I took a photo of my shadow. I should probably get out more.

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    We thought that we’d walk around the castle.

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    We stopped when I realised that the path got a bit too steep and I might fall off it.

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    I was pleased that we noticed the lights had been turned on, it truly added to the ambience of the whole arrangement.

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    Safely back at the hotel and Liam worked the vending machine for me so that I could blame him if my Orangina didn’t dispense.

  • Carcassonne Day Two : Restaurant Au Four Saint Louis

    Carcassonne Day Two : Restaurant Au Four Saint Louis

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    I’m quite review driven when selecting restaurants and this location was highly reviewed and looked like it had some character to it. We had meandered in a little earlier to reserve a table and although the downstairs area is small, there is a larger dining room upstairs and that’s where we were seated.

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    I like a bit of rustic and the stone building did have a considerable charm to it without feeling formulaic.

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    The room that we were seated in. We’d obviously decided what we wanted quickly and didn’t need to faff about and fortunately the staff recognised that so we weren’t left waiting for very long. The restaurant has a permanent pizza menu and they always have cassoulet, but everything else changes daily and is specials driven.

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    The starter of the goat’s cheese whilst Liam went for a French onion soup. I had no idea whether the cheese would be served hot or cold, but it was the former and I could take that gamble as it’s an agreeable cheese to me either way. I have this odd thing that I don’t like melted cheddar, particularly the smell. This is why pizzas should never be made with a cheddar and mozzarella mix, but I digress somewhere here. The cheese was mild and creamy, whilst the salad was, well, salady. Unsure of protocol, we risked getting more water and bread, not knowing whether it would be charged for later on, but it wasn’t. One slight oddity is that we had to reuse the cutlery for the starters and main courses, which didn’t seem entirely usual, especially when they were plonked back on the table.

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    Cassoulet, with Liam’s traditional local dish of pizza in the background. The Cassoulet consisted of white beans, pork sausage and duck, and it much thicker than I had anticipated, making it filling and especially so when I kept getting more bread delivered to the table so it all transpired to be more substantial that I had expected. The meat was tender and the duck fell off the bone, with the duck skin being perfectly crisp. This is very much a French comfort meal, in the way that Maltesers are one of my comfort meals, and it’s one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. I would add here, for reasons of precision, that I’m now comparing Maltesers to a restaurant cooked Cassoulet. Well, I don’t think I am.

    I was also impressed at the craft beer selection, they had numerous different options from FADA and they were suitably interesting, the Blonde was clean tasting with slight fruit notes, whilst the Sunny IPA was hoppy and light. I’m not sure how many French restaurants are moving towards making an effort to embrace craft beer, but I hope that the number steadily increases to move away from the expectation that customers will want to order wine.

    The service was attentive and friendly, with the prices being moderate and I was pleased that there were no additional charges added at the end. The staff spoke English, which was very useful for Liam and I, and it felt like a traditional French meal in the heart of the historic walled city of Carcassone. I think that reservations are going to be useful here, perhaps even essential, as it seemed a popular destination for locals and visitors to the city. All really rather lovely.