Category: France

  • Le Mans – Musée de Tessé (Un marché by Matheus van Helmont)

    Le Mans – Musée de Tessé (Un marché by Matheus van Helmont)

    I still have a blog posting backlog, but that’s nothing new. This painting is effectively a seventeenth-century supermarket, although one with rather more livestock wandering around and considerably less concern about refrigeration. Un marché by the Flemish painter Matheus van Helmont shows a market taking place in an imaginary square, complete with a fountain, Italian-looking buildings and enough food to make it clear that subtlety was not really the objective.

    As an aside, it’s not unusual not to know the precise birth date of an artist from this period, but there’s even uncertainty over when Van Helmont died. He was born in Antwerp in 1623, but sources variously give his death as around 1679 or simply sometime after 1679. I’m used to a little uncertainty in seventeenth-century biography, but that’s still impressively vague.

    Anyway, the produce is everywhere and these were the bad old times before Tesco Express came about. Anyone wanting a chicken apparently had to negotiate with another human being and then take responsibility for carrying it home themselves, which all feels rather sub-optimal. There are baskets of fruit and vegetables, game, poultry and various other things being bought, sold, carried and inspected. There are no aisles, no price labels and no loyalty card scheme, but the basic principle is recognisable enough, namely turn up, find what you want, haggle over it and try not to trip over a dog.

    The abundance is also slightly deceptive. Among all the food and activity, there are poorer figures in the foreground, including a beggar. That stops the scene being simply a cheerful celebration of plenty. Van Helmont is showing a busy commercial world, but not everybody within it is benefiting from that prosperity in the same way. The square itself is imaginary, with its fountain and Italian-influenced architecture, but the people, produce and differences in social status are drawn from the world Van Helmont knew. It is essentially a fictional branch of a seventeenth-century supermarket chain stocked with very real social inequality.

    I like paintings such as this because there’s no obvious point at which you’ve finished looking at them. Every little group seems to contain another argument, transaction, animal or basket of food that I hadn’t noticed before. I’m not sure I learned much about efficient seventeenth-century retail management, but I did establish that Tesco Express has significantly reduced the number of chickens wandering around near the checkout. I sometimes think I think too much about these paintings.

  • Wizz Air (Lyon to London Luton)

    Wizz Air (Lyon to London Luton)

    “To stay is to exist, but to travel is to live”. It is unlikely to surprise anyone that I agree with this sentiment, although I suspect whoever coined it had rather more romantic forms of travel in mind than standing in a corridor waiting to board a Wizz Air flight to Luton.

    I had eaten, courtesy of Priority Pass, at Alpage and I saw the gate was announced relatively early, I meandered off as it’s never clear how long passport control will take.

    The walk to the non-Schengen area of the airport.

    Which was shut.

    Budget air travel consists of a lot of standing around in corridors and this was no exception as after I had gone through the border control process, which took twenty seconds, I spent 45 minutes standing here. Travel can be very exotic.

    Off to board.

    The clouds had made the temperature quite reasonable, which was slightly annoying as I was now leaving France after days of being too hot. I may have mentioned the heat once or twice during these posts, although I feel I have shown considerable restraint.

    The aircraft was G-WUKZ which I’m not sure that I’ve been on before. The seating Gods gave me an aisle seat and the flight was entirely pleasant. As usual the crew were polite, the service was efficient, the aircraft was clean and everyone travelled towards the destination in roughly the manner aviation intended. This is generally my preferred level of excitement when several thousand feet in the air, so all was well.

    However, there was a failed landing and a go-around which was slightly sub-optimal from the point of view I was hoping not to have a delay on this flight. The cabin crew made what sounded like a reassuring scripted announcement before the First Officer followed with something rather more spontaneous. I’m not entirely convinced his additional contribution reduced the anxiety levels of every passenger, but at least nobody began distributing life jackets. And I like a bit of drama anyway.

    After another fifteen minutes of faffing about above southern England we landed safely. Around five passengers applauded, which immediately gave me something new to be irritated about. I appreciate that landing an aircraft is considerably more complicated than parking a bicycle, but I generally assume the pilots regard getting us onto the ground safely as part of the agreed service.

    And back at Luton Airport and I was ready to walk into the town centre, which I’m not sure that I’d call a treat, but at least the weather was moderate. Too hot, but moderate. Anyway, it was a very lovely trip to France, made slightly sad for me as I knew that it was the last trip abroad for a few weeks. Fortunately, I had returned to Luton, which is certainly one way of ensuring that the desire to travel again remains strong.

  • Lyon – Lyon St Exupéry Airport (Alpage)

    Lyon – Lyon St Exupéry Airport (Alpage)

    There isn’t a lounge that I could use with Priority Pass at Lyon airport, but they did have a restaurant credit at Alpage where I could spend €23.

    Sometimes the allocated budget is a little tight, but it wasn’t unreasonable here and the menu showed that I had a few different options.

    It was a little busier when I entered, but it was never packed and there was a relaxed atmosphere. The seating was comfortable and the fans above reduced the temperature slightly, as it was too hot.

    The bar area and I was served nearly immediately. I mentioned Priority Pass and the team member asked which bank my card was provided by and he was relieved when I said I had it directly with Priority Pass. He mentioned the number of Amex customers who tried to use it and it’s not valid for them. I spent about 5 cents less than the allocation on my food and drink so that was all rather convenient.

    The chicken Caesar salad was perfectly reasonable and was a large portion and was at the appropriate chilled temperature. The beer was the La Blonde from Brasserie du Mont Blanc which was light and refreshing.

    Just to prove the Amex point, a family of four came in and a customer tried to use his card, but was refused by the same team member who had served me. The same team member explained that it was not valid, leaving the English speaking customer looking distinctly unimpressed and rather confused. Several negative online reviews appear to have resulted from the same issue, although the terms of the offer do seem reasonably clear for anyone feeling adventurous enough to read them.

    I like these restaurant credits as it gives a bit of variety to proceedings and it’s just as easy to get work done. There weren’t any power points available in the restaurant, but there are plenty in the airport terminal so this didn’t prove to be an obstacle. Anyway, I’d quite happily pop here again if I was back at the airport and it was a pleasant enough place to spend an hour or so.

  • Lyon – City Centre to Airport

    Lyon – City Centre to Airport

    After a suitably decadent breakfast, I needed to get to Lyon airport which is a location that I’ve never been to before. There is the Rhônexpress but it’s a ridiculously priced service at €16, so I went for a transportation solution that involved a metro journey and a bus that was about €4. The price of the Rhônexpres is sub-optimal, there’s no need for the airport and city to decide on a price point at that level.

    It was a pleasant walk crossing the Rhône.

    My journey started from Cordeliers on Line A of the metro system and the station and the line opened on 2 May 1978. They made life considerably easier for themselves by building the station beneath a public square. The engineers simply dug the whole thing up before putting it back together again afterwards, a classic cut-and-cover approach that would have looked very familiar to those constructing the early London Underground.

    I liked the dividers between the tracks, it made the whole arrangement looked clean and modern.

    The metro swept into the platform and wasn’t overly busy at this point.

    The train was busy and too hot, but I was able to get a photo at the end of the line of the seating arrangement. It was at least and punctual though, so I had no complaints there.

    My train arrived into Vaulx-en-Velin – La Soie, which was an extension to Line A and this bit opened in 2007 and note the trees at the metro station, all rather lovely.

    Looking down from above the station.

    It was something of a transport hub as this signage shows.

    And what happens when a city tries to treat airport routes as a cash cow? It forces people onto other services which simply cannot cope.

    I got the seat behind the driver but the bus soon filled and it was unable to pick passengers up at some stops. This is a sub-optimal arrangement for an airport bus which departs every thirty minutes as some passengers tend to leave slightly less time than I do to get to the airport. Missing a bus is one thing, but missing a flight because the bus couldn’t physically take any more passengers is rather another.

    A sculpture near the airport.

    And safely at Lyon–Saint Exupéry Airport, whose striking station building was designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava (1951-). It’s an impressive piece of modern architecture and a suitably dramatic gateway to the city. I’d love to tell you that arriving there finally brought some relief from the heat, but France remained entirely committed to proving otherwise.

  • Lyon – Bloomy Brunch & Coffee

    Lyon – Bloomy Brunch & Coffee

    As I only had a couple of hours in Lyon before I needed to get to the airport, I thought that I’d have a walk by the river and opt for a rather more decadent breakfast than I’d usually have. I had become a little bored of tropical Fanta and thought I’d go for something that appeared to be a little more healthy.

    It was a little busier than this photo indicates and the surroundings were clean, comfortable and all very on-trend. I was also pleased to discover a power socket, as my phone battery had plummeted to 94% since leaving the hotel and I like to remain prepared for any technological emergency, no matter how imaginary. There was a friendly welcome from the two team members and although they didn’t have an English menu, the server said that she could translate it for me. As I like to be prepared, I had already studied the menu in advance.

    I went for the waffles with chicken, accompanied by a freshly squeezed orange juice and an espresso. I think it’s fair to say that the meal was served with some focus on the presentation, but the chicken was also tender, the waffles were light rather than stodgy and the salad was fresh. I usually find waffles quite dull and plain, but this certainly livened the arrangement up.

    I was pleased that the meal was served quickly as I didn’t have long to sit in the cafe as I had to walk to the nearest subway to ensure that I got to the airport in time. By “in time”, I mean within four hours of the flight departing. I very much enjoyed this leisurely breakfast and I can see why the venue is so well reviewed online. An effort has been made to keep the food not only Instagrammable, but actually tasting decent as well.

    Anyway, this felt like a relaxed French cafe breakfast and so a suitable final meal for the trip. Well, other than the airport food, but that’s a story for another post.

  • Lyon – Ibis Lyon Part Dieu Les Halles

    Lyon – Ibis Lyon Part Dieu Les Halles

    Following a slightly wet walk after my long rail journey, I arrived just before 23:00 at this Accor hotel in Lyon. As an aside, this part of the city expanded rapidly in the nineteenth century due to the advent of the railway, so there were numerous accommodation options around here. More importantly, there was a particularly friendly welcome from the receptionist, it’s always positive to arrive somewhere slightly damp and for them to pretend to look pleased to see me.

    Arriving at this time meant that the bar was still open and I was able to get my welcome drink which was the always reliable Grimbergen Blonde beer.

    I arrived shortly after England had been knocked out of the World Cup. That might have explained the receptionist’s friendliness, perhaps he assumed I was in need of emotional support. Fortunately, I’d already reached the acceptance stage of grief by then.

    The room was the old style Ibis design, but I was quite content with that. The hotel was one of the cheapest Accor options in the city, which is primarily why I had chosen it. It was also near the railway station and I had correctly judged that there was a reasonable chance that the train might be late and I didn’t want a nighttime trek across a new city.

    The view from my room the following morning. It was, somewhat astonishingly, still too hot. France had remained committed to this policy throughout my visit other than when I was on a train when the temperature collapsed and it poured with rain.

    The online reviews for the hotel are rather mixed, with complaints about the air conditioning, room size and the general lack of luxury. Personally, I’m perfectly happy to trade room size for a lower price, so that never really concerned me. Heat in hotel rooms is something I complain about with impressive regularity, but on this occasion the air conditioning worked perfectly well and cooled the room to a temperature that didn’t provoke a lengthy blog post about it.

    I wasn’t in the hotel for long enough to offer a comprehensive review, but it quietly did everything I needed it to do. The room was clean, there were no noise disturbances either inside or outside the hotel, and every member of staff I encountered was friendly and helpful. For an inexpensive overnight stay near to the centre I thought that it was all rather lovely.

  • SNCF Train from Le Mans to Lyon (Long delays and dangerous dogs)

    SNCF Train from Le Mans to Lyon (Long delays and dangerous dogs)

    As my riveting blog is getting behind once again, I feel the need to speed through a few posts. This is Le Mans railway station and I needed to get to Lyon for my flight the following day, and as this was France I confidently assumed the railway would provide a calm and civilised end to the trip.

    The railway station is from the late nineteenth century, but this extension has been added to the front to give more space.

    It was too hot, which I might have mentioned, so I had my tropical Fanta to get me by.

    I didn’t understand this at first, I just noticed that on the left it said that my train was delayed by an hour and it had doubled the number of trains going to Lyon. I went to find a staff member and he helpfully explained that the train was delayed by an hour and that it would be departing from Platform 2 but that I could safely leave the station and return a bit later. The stress levels of that were beyond me, so I took my increasingly warm Fanta to another platform to have a sit down.

    And then for a few minutes, my train entirely disappeared from the boards. I considered this to be sub-optimal.

    Although I had been told that the train was departing from Platform 2, this was the first time that it appeared on the board. I decided that I’d better go to the platform to see what was happening.

    And the train to Lyon was at Platform 2, so I was most confused.

    It was evident that something strange was happening as there were plenty of passengers who were on the train, but others were milling about. I decided that I needed to find an adult and I located the train guard. The guard explained, in perfect English and with admirable calmness, that only half my train had arrived. The other half was still somewhere in France and would be along in about ninety minutes, which was longer than the boards said, but he said it would definitely be arriving. He mentioned my seat was in the half that hadn’t arrived, so I went to sit in the heat with my Fanta to wait.

    To my great annoyance, after days of it being too hot and needing to rain, it then started to pour down with rain. So several of us decided to find a dry spot on some steps.

    A little over ninety minutes late, the other half of the train came sweeping into view.

    It’s fair to say that I was pleased to see this train. It meant that I would be getting to my hotel without any further issues.

    There’s my carriage and the double decker train looked really rather classy.

    I was talking to the guard on this part of the train and she checked my ticket and was explaining where to go when a dog jumped up at us. The dog looked bloody vicious, but it was muzzled. The guard looked genuinely furious that a passenger decided it was appropriate to bring such a dog on the train and at this point the dog was out of control, barking and frightening other passengers.

    My seat was a window seat and there was a laptop sitting on the aisle seat and I did wonder whether the dog owner would be seated there. I would have obviously gone to the guard to ask to be moved, but it transpired a passenger sitting nearby had just randomly left it there.

    It soon became evident that the train staff had absolutely no intention of that dog being allowed back onto their train. Transport police, guards and others came to protect the public and there were some cheers when it was evident that the passenger wasn’t being allowed back on. I’m pleased to say that this was last bit of drama of the trip.

    There’s a lot wrong with SNCF and the prices for rail travel really didn’t seem to be cheaper than the UK. But, the train was clean, there were power outlets, there was plenty of space for my laptop and it was a comfortable environment.

    The train was only at around 65% occupancy and I didn’t have anyone next to me during the journey. The service was fast, efficient and peaceful. One thing I’d never really appreciated before is just how empty much of France is. There were long stretches where the only signs of civilisation were the occasional road, farmhouse or distant village. It’s a reminder of just how densely populated much of England really is.

    Safely into Lyon with my now empty bottle of Fanta.

    And there was torrential rain.

    I was entitled to 25% Delay Repay, which is rather less generous than the UK system. The claim form took me about forty-five minutes to complete, which struck me as an impressively inefficient way of compensating passengers for having already lost time. Still, if it eventually appears in my bank account, I’ll forgive them. Eventually. But, I was pleased to get to Lyon in time as the alternative would have been an overnight Flix Bus and that would have displeased me.

  • Le Mans – Cathedral of Saint-Julien (The North Door)

    Le Mans – Cathedral of Saint-Julien (The North Door)

    Just a quick post about the north door at Le Mans Cathedral. It’s hard not to be quite impressed about the architecture and perspective here. I’m not a student of medieval architecture, but those are clean lines with no unnecessary faffing about being added to the whole arrangement. There’s some evidence of former wall paintings still visible which would have made it look a little more artistic, but bearing in mind that this is one of the more minor entrances to the cathedral, it was worth pausing to look at. And, also, it gave me a chance to cool down as it was too hot.

    Although on the subject of perspective, the whole cathedral is beautiful and seems perfectly proportioned.

  • Le Mans – Cathedral of Saint-Julien (The Ascension Window)

    Le Mans – Cathedral of Saint-Julien (The Ascension Window)

    The Ascension Window in Le Mans Cathedral is rather lovely, but the guidebook told me that it was not simply another attractive piece of medieval stained glass. Dating from the beginning of the twelfth century, it is regarded as one of the oldest stained-glass windows still occupying its original place within a religious building, making it one of the most important surviving examples of early stained glass in France and indeed Europe. Only the two central sections of the original composition survive, showing the Virgin Mary and the Apostles watching Christ ascend into Heaven, although the figure of Christ itself has been lost. The window has therefore survived for roughly nine centuries while retaining enough of its original imagery to remain intelligible, which given the number of wars, arguments, drunken residents and the like is all really quite impressive.

    Later abstract panels were added by Max Ingrand in 1956, allowing the medieval fragments to remain displayed as part of a complete window. The window is therefore not entirely medieval, but it is very much a survivor, preserving enough of its original imagery, colour and setting to give an impression of what the medieval worshippers would have seen. Given that I thought it was quite impressive, and I’ve visited Greggs so I know decadence, it must have been seen as really quite the thing at the time.

  • Le Mans – Cathedral of Saint-Julien (The Pierre Saint-Julien)

    Le Mans – Cathedral of Saint-Julien (The Pierre Saint-Julien)

    Standing quietly beside Le Mans Cathedral is a monument that makes even the oldest parts of the church seem like relatively recent additions. The Pierre Saint-Julien is a prehistoric standing stone, or menhir, erected during the Neolithic period around five thousand years ago. It originally stood elsewhere in Le Mans before being moved to its present position in 1778 after its original site was destroyed.

    In the photo, it’s that lump of rock in the bottom left and I didn’t take a better photo at the time as I thought that it was a weathered statue of limited interest. Some impressive archaeological skills on display there…. Over the centuries the stone has acquired a variety of names and legends, including the Pierre au Lait, the Stone of Blood and Gargantua’s Stone, reflecting the layers of folklore that have accumulated around it.

    I think it’s rather lovely that at some stage, someone thought they needed to put this historic stone somewhere, so they popped it in the corner of one of France’s great cathedrals.