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  • Louisville – Hotel Breakfasts

    Louisville – Hotel Breakfasts

    [I originally posted this in August 2018 about a visit I had made in January 2018, I’m reposting it to fix the broken image link]

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    For most of my month in the United States in January 2018 I stayed in a variety of Choice Hotels and random motel chains. There were a few exceptions, but in the main, the above photo (from the Econo Lodge Downtown hotel in Louisville) shows the range of breakfast items that were available for most of the month.

    The Americans certainly like their sweet tastes for breakfasts, with sugary doughnuts, cinnamon rolls, sugary cereals (often Froot Loopz), sweet coffee and sweet orange juice. I think I could get in the habit of having doughnuts for breakfast…..

  • Louisville – The Blackburn Riots

    Louisville – The Blackburn Riots

    [I originally posted this in August 2018 about a visit I made in January 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

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    I hadn’t realised just how much slavery there was in Louisville, but around 25% of the city’s population before the American Civil War were enslaved African Americans. There was also an interesting quirk of history that the state of Kentucky didn’t ratify the thirteenth amendment, which ended slavery, until 1976. Most other states had ratified it in 1865, but it was rejected in Kentucky at the time, and only corrected later on.

    Louisville was also linked to the first race riots which took place in Detroit, in the State of Michigan, in 1833. Two slaves, a married couple called Thornton Blackburn and Rutha Blackburn, escaped from their Louisville owners in 1831. They were employed by different slave owners and one of those owners decided that they wanted to sell what they considered to be their possession. That an individual could be owned by another person was still accepted by many, but the case against slavery was growing.

    As an aside, I hadn’t really thought about the aspect of slaves being separated in this way. The slavery in Kentucky differed a little from that in the Deep South, with the latter often having large estates and farms with huge numbers of slaves. That meant that although male and female slaves might be forced to live apart on the site, they could remain married and didn’t have quite the same risk that one would be shipped away.

    So, on 3 July 1831, the couple decided to both flee Louisville and they headed to live in Detroit. The Blackburns then suffered some bad luck, as if their lives weren’t traumatic enough as it was. A man called Thomas J. Rogers from Louisville was visiting Detroit and he recognised Thornton Blackburn, although he didn’t recognise Rogers. In the days before the Internet (which I refuse to admit existed, as such a world seems almost beyond belief today….) and mass media, it must have been bad luck for someone to be noticed like this.

    Rogers decided that he would wait two years before thinking to mention to the authorities in Kentucky that he had seen the Blackburns. Whether he didn’t want the slaves to be caught or whether he just forgot is a little unclear, but when he reported the situation, the slave owners wanted them back. At that point the slave catchers were called in, who had the job of recovering slaves and returning them to their owners.

    So, the slave catchers did their job and the couple were arrested and thrown into a jail in Detroit. This situation caused much local anger and there were attempts to free them from jail by force and the Blackburns managed to escape to Canada. The city then faced the problem that those who wanted an end to slavery were furious that two people could be arrested in the way they were, and those who didn’t want an end to slavery were furious that the two had escaped. This caused a riot, and significant expense to the city as buildings were destroyed in what was Detroit’s first race riot. It of course wasn’t the last.

    There were efforts to get the Blackburns back from Canada, but the laws had changed there so that slavery was now illegal. This meant that slaves wouldn’t be returned to the United States, which was when the country started to become a safe harbour for slaves, and it became part of the Underground Railroad.

    The story continues though as Thornton Blackburn decided in the late 1830s to return to Kentucky to help his mother flee Louisville and join him in Canada. He was successful, and he managed to build a new life for himself in Toronto. He died in 1890 at the age of 78, leaving a substantial sum of money, and Rutha died five years later.

  • Louisville – The Home of KFC

    Louisville – The Home of KFC

    [I posted this in August 2018 about a visit I made in January 2018, I’m reposting it now to fix the broken image links]

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    Louisville is the home of KFC and so I felt that I had no choice but to visit one of their restaurants. This also represented the first time that I have had Kentucky Fried Chicken in the state of Kentucky, so I had high expectations.

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    Irritatingly, given that Louisville is the home of KFC, they have very few restaurants actually in the city centre. They actually don’t really have any, other than the outlet at the YUM stadium which is only open during events, although there a lot in the outlying areas of Louisville. The nearest outlet that they have is on West Broadway which is only a short walk from the city centre, so I decided that this would do.

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    I hadn’t thought of Colonel Sanders as a celebrity chef, but it seems like a fair point.

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    I watched as nearly everyone in the queue in front of me ordered the chicken pot pie. So, not being one to ignore local knowledge, I thought that this was the best option. The pie pastry appears to replace the need for fries and instead there’s a biscuit provided with the meal. I think I’d rather have fries, but I have to make concessions during these expeditions into fine dining….

    Anyway, the pot pie was excellent, as there was lots of chicken, a pleasant creamy sauce and the pastry was slightly flaky (in a good way, as this phrase could also mean in a bad way…..). It came as part of a $5 offer which included a drink, so all reasonably priced.

    There were also a succession of tourists to the area who came in to take photos (of the restaurant, not me) and I imagine some of them were experiencing their first KFC in Kentucky. OK, to the locals this is probably not particularly exciting, but there is a certain charm in finally eating KFC in its home territory.

  • Louisville – General George Rogers Clark Statue

    Louisville – General George Rogers Clark Statue

    [I posted this in August 2018 about a trip I had made in January 2018, I’m reposting it to fix the broken image link]

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    The rain was becoming rather heavy at this point, but this statue pointing towards the Ohio River looked interesting. It’s of General George Rogers Clark, who was one of the most senior members of the US army in their battle for independence from Britain. This statue was designed by Felix de Weldon who was born in Australia, but became known as one America’s finest sculptors.

    Clark died in Louisville in 1818 at the age of 65, although he struggled with money due to not being reimbursed by the state of Virginia for some of his military costs. The state only corrected this after his death when they gave his family $30,000 and they continued to make payments until 1913.

  • Wrocław – Katyn Massacre Memorial

    Wrocław – Katyn Massacre Memorial

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    This is the memorial to the massacre at Katyn, or to give its full name “the Memorial to the Victims of Katyn, Kharkov and Mednoye Massacres and Camp Prisoners in Kozelsk, Starobelsk and Ostashkov.” It commemorates the 1940 massacre of thousands of Polish officers and intellectuals by the Soviet NKVD, one of those bleak moments of twentieth-century history where humanity was entirely and completely absent. It was a desperate attempt by the Soviets to destroy the Polish military leadership and an attempt to erase statehood. The Soviets had been humiliated by the Poles in the years after World War One with the Polish-Bolshevik War and I can understand their complete terror about needing to face another conflict.

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    The memorial, which is rather substantial, was erected in Juliusz Słowacki Park in 1999 and the official unveiling was on 22 September 2000. At the rear of this photo is the representation of the Angel of Death.

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    This represents the Mother of the Polish state cradling an executed prisoner who has a bullet hole in the back of his head and his arms tied together behind his back.

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    A small plaque notes that Tadeusz Tchórzewski was the sculptor. The monument is now under the care of the Lower Silesian Katyn Family Association which comprises of family members and descendants of those who were murdered. Wrocław was still Germany during the Second World War, when it was Breslau, so the impact in the city during these years were very different from other parts of Poland.

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    Powerful. There’s an information board nearby which reads:

    “In the spring of 1940, on Stalin’s orders, 22,000 Polish officers, policemen and other prisoners of war from the Kozelsk, Ostashkov and Starobelsk camps were murdered with a shot in the back of the head in Katyn, Mednoye, Kharkov and in unknown places in the former USSR. In tribute to the murdered, this monument was founded by the compatriots of Wrocław in 1999 on the initiative of the “Lower Silesian Katyn Family” association.”

    The Soviets covered up evidence of their executions after the end of the Second World War as they sought to bring Poland under their control. After 1990 and the collapse of the USSR the truth outed and evidence of the war crimes became much clearer after a series of exhumations. It’s evident that this powerful sculpture was needed in the 1990s to start spreading information about Katyn, something that had been kept from the Polish population by the Soviets. The Soviets never really convinced the Polish population that they were somehow their protectors in the post-war period, the collapse of the communist state in Poland was perhaps always inevitable and it’s maybe surprising that it lasted as long as it did.

  • Gdansk – Galleon Tour to Westerplatte

    Gdansk – Galleon Tour to Westerplatte

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

    It was my final day in Poland and Łukasz’s suggestion to go on a pirate galleon to Westerplatte didn’t seem like a bad idea. It required very little energy and involved sailing the high seas. Well, the Baltic Sea.

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    The company operating the trip has two boats that they use, which are quite different in design, but both look the part. We got to go on both of them, the Czarna Perła (the Black Pearl) and the Galeon Lew (the Lion Galleon).

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    They had live music with a man playing sea shanties, he was surprisingly good.

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    We had a little visit to Westerplatte, with the monument in the background. We only had an hour there which would have been insufficient to actually see the entire historic site. It was certainly much busier than when I had gone before in November 1996.

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    Our galleon arrives into Westerplatte, ready to sweep us back into Gdansk. We enjoyed watching some of the visitors trying to barge their way up the gangway to ensure that they got first entry to the boat…..

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    Gdansk harbour area.

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    Watching the other galleon go sailing past us as we headed back into Gdansk.

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    The final trip was over as we arrived back into Gdansk.

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    I’d never noticed this sign before, but it’s on the entry to the central harbour area.

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    Łukasz, surveying the high seas and wondering what life would have been like as a Polish naval commander.

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    Me, wondering what free gift Greggs will be sending me this month on the app.

  • Gdansk

    Gdansk

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

    After a lovely few days in Gdansk, I’m now off to the airport to catch my first Wizzair flight which will take me to Cologne in Germany.

    Willa Fahrenheita

    Galleon Tour to Westerplatte

    Caffe Perro Negro

    Browar PG4

    Forum Shopping Centre

    Westerplatte

    Kotka Cafe

    Salad Story

    Labeerynt

    Gryf Hotel

    Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa

    Solidarity Museum

    I’ve arrived   🙂

  • Gdansk – Willa Fahrenheita

    Gdansk – Willa Fahrenheita

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

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    For my final three days in Gdansk I stayed at the two-star Willa Fahrenheita. It’s about a twenty-minute walk to the city centre, but there’s a tram setup nearby meaning both Sopot and central Gdansk are easily accessible.

    The hotel reception isn’t always open, but there’s a number that can be called. They have a system of not using keycards or keys, but instead relying on numerical entry pads for the main door and the room, something which I prefer (I don’t have to wait at reception at hand them back….).

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    Nice welcome snack and drink, always a lovely little touch. The man at check-in was also particularly friendly, making a real effort to give a positive first impression, which he certainly managed to do. I was also checking-in slightly earlier than the usual hours, so his efforts were much appreciated.

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    The room had a pleasant balcony, although the view wasn’t spectacular, I had hoped to see The Hanging Gardens of Babylon or herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically across the plain.

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    The room was clean and comfortable, I quite liked the little sofa which overlooked the balcony area. I did find that the housekeeping hours were rather erratic, but given the price, I thought that it was overall a very acceptable stay. It was also quiet, it’s tucked away down a back street set back from the road, so it’s unlikely that anyone would be disturbed by external noise.

  • Gdansk – Caffe Perro Negro

    Gdansk – Caffe Perro Negro

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

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    I’m not really a cafe person normally, but since it started to pour with rain, I thought it would be a pleasant environment to sit for a while. There were no brave patrons sitting outside when I went in, primarily because it was bucketing down with rain, but it started to get a little busier by the time I had left. I also like the building, it’s rather quaint.

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    The cafe, which was mostly full when I was there, had a quirky interior, and felt rather at ease with itself. There was just one staff member serving, and she didn’t really get chance to stop during my visit. She seemed rushed, but was always helpful and pleasant.

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    I liked the spider effect which the lighting had. I also liked the atmosphere, as it was quiet and peaceful, without some awful rowdy and raucous music playing. The interior of the restaurant also felt quite artistic in its design, some considerable thought had been put in to how the cafe felt and looked for customers.

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    I was less taken with the light covering.

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    It was raining outside, so the rule is that I must have a hot chocolate. The rule is actually quite flexible, sometimes I must have beer. I wasn’t asked if I wanted cream on top, but I was very pleased that the drink appeared with lots of it.

    The price was reasonable as the cafe was quite central, 9zl for the drink, which is around £1.80. They did food as well, primarily cakes, but also rolls and some light meals. I didn’t see any chicken bakes on offer though, so I decided to save myself for a pub visit…..