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  • Warsaw – Fryderyk Chopin Museum

    Warsaw – Fryderyk Chopin Museum

    I’ve never managed to visit this museum during my previous visits to Warsaw, but it’s a popular tourist destination and it opened in the grand Ostrogski Palace in 1953.

    My first impressions weren’t particularly positive as I went to the ticket desk and waited for just over five minutes with some others in a queue. Neither of the two staff acknowledged anyone waiting, and they then just casually threw over some cards. The problem with doing this in a careless manner was that the staff member didn’t give me one and then seemed most put out when I asked for a card, asking what I had done with it. It was an unusually sloppy welcome from a Polish museum.

    A staff member at the entrance to the main part of the museum gave a quick introduction, explaining that the card provided operated the multi-media displays throughout the museum. I chose to visit on a Wednesday as there’s free admission for all, so I arrived early before the crowds.

    Many of the displays were like this, so they needed the card to operate them. I have no idea why they’re using cards and not just getting visitors to press a button on the display, it seems like technology for the sake of it. I had thought that they were encoded with the preferred language of the visitor, but since the man at the ticket desk just handed them out without checking, that didn’t seem quite as likely.

    One of the large rooms full of displays, although I was more interested in the room itself which is mostly obscured. And, unfortunately, I had to be interested in the room as I was struggling to find much else of interest to engage with. One exciting element of curating a museum should be to make it accessible to those with no knowledge of the subject that is being explained. I had little prior knowledge of Chopin and his life and I left the museum with the same lack of knowledge.

    This museum to me was like giving a detailed biography in book form to someone who just wanted to find out more about an individual. It’s impractical for them to read something like 300 pages, so there needs to be some flow of information to get the basics out and then build on that for those who are interested. Books can use timelines, summaries or even just a list of contents, whereas I had no idea of what was going on in this museum.

    “The exhibits follow no obvious timeline and are hard to follow. If you want to listen to an audio of Chopin telling you what colour he wants his wallpaper this is for you. You will leave the museum having no clue how he died, why he went to Paris, what kind of person he was or why his music is so special. But don’t worry you will have seen several letters and illustrations to his family members none of which readable.”

    I do agree with this review, I had no idea what any of the letters were saying or what relevance they had. But there were sweeping amounts of information about trivialities of Chopin’s life and works.

    “This museum is absolutely nothing but a collection of miscellaneous facts and pictures presented to visitors without any context whatsoever and unless you devoted a good part of your life to a detailed study of Chopin’s life and biography. none of those pictures, names and dates will mean anything to you and will not be able to piece them together to find any connection to either the museum itself or, indeed, Chopin as a person and as a composer.”

    And I agree with another reviewer, the museum had letters by people who seemed to have no link to Chopin at all, or at least, that link wasn’t explained.

    “There is absolutely no order to this museum. Usually a museum which showcases a person is ordered chronological from birth to death. In many museums, the direction in which visitors should proceed are clearly marked. In this museum, we first observe an exhibit which explains something about Chopin’s birth, and after that it is like a maze with mass confusion and no sense of direction. Lots of musical scores, old photographs, letters, etc. but little information provided. For example, I am aware that Chopin was born in Poland, but spent most of his life in France. But I have no idea where or if this information was explained. Does the museum assume that we already know that?”

    There are hundreds of reviews like this, but I agree again, the museum is assuming that the visitor has a significant prior knowledge of Chopin. But, those with a deep knowledge of Chopin, or a wider understanding of classical museum, will no doubt find the museum a treasure trove of information.

    The museum building, the Ostrogski Palace, was the highlight of my visit, although the museum displays did obscure some of it. Work started on the building in the late seventeenth century, although sadly it was destroyed by the Germans during the Second World War. The building was reconstructed between 1949 and 1954, although some of the original cellars appear to have survived. I was mildly disappointed that the museum didn’t make more of the building and its heritage, although it might well have done on some random screen that I didn’t see.

    A room full of screens with headphones attached for those who wanted to listen to Chopin’s museum.

    Dried flowers from Chopin’s death bed.

    Chopin’s death mask.

    Chopin’s hair.

    I managed to lengthen this visit out to 45 minutes, although I’m sure anyone really engaged with Chopin’s music could make it last much longer. Personally, I thought that the technology in the museum was overdone and made it harder to access information, although the exhibits seemed to be all over the place in any event.

    “Lacks coherent and clear narrative from any (musical/biographical/historical) perspective. Almost all information is buried under convoluted and slow interactive gadgety screens for which you have to put on different headphones each time. A lot of handwritten letters on display tell you nothing about Chopin because they are not transcribed into something legible. The music section lacks deep analysis and background of what makes Chopin’s music special. Half an hour on Wikipedia will teach you more about Chopin than this museum.”

    Another review sums up what I thought of the museum, which is that Wikipedia is perhaps a better source of information for anyone interested in Chopin. So, in summary, I agree with yet another reviewer, who wrote:

    “Only for the most fervent Chopin fans… not recommended for the casual tourist. The museum could definitely be much improved.”

  • Warsaw – Footprint of Ghetto Wall

    Warsaw – Footprint of Ghetto Wall

    There’s little remaining of the city’s former ghetto wall (although more on that later) which was constructed during the Second World War during the period of German occupation. There were over 450,000 people forced to live in the area when the ghetto was established, with nearly 100,000 dying of starvation and hundreds of thousands more dying when the ghetto was liquidated and the residents despatched to concentration camps.

    A plan of the ghetto.

    It’s easy to follow the remnants of the wall, which stood from 1940 until 1943. A permanent reminder of the atrocities which took place here.

  • Heathrow T5 – British Airways B Gates Lounge

    I’ve written about this lounge before in more detail here, but there have been a few new food developments….

    I haven’t seen this before, and although I’m not sure garlic is an ideal ingredient before customers board an aircraft, I very much like black pepper chicken.

    It was absolutely delicious, the chicken was tender and there was a peppery taste to the sauce.

    I’ve seen this before, but only recently, which is the carrot cake. Very nice…. Moist and flavourful….

    But, my favourite addition to the lounge food are the pork pies with piccalilli. I don’t like pork pies with lots of jelly, so these meet my requirements in terms of their overall taste and their lack of jelly.

  • Warsaw – Train from Chopin Airport to City Centre

    Warsaw – Train from Chopin Airport to City Centre

    The final part of the journey for today was getting from Warsaw Chopin Airport to the city centre.

    Fortunately, the signage is clear throughout the airport, despite it being quite a walk to get to the trains. It irritates me, like many things do, when airports seem to keep these things a secret. Warsaw airport’s green line is easy even for idiots to follow, and I can personally attest to that….

    The situation is moderately complex insomuch as there are two ticket machines and two operators to get to the city centre. I just bought a standard ticket and went with KM (Koleje Mazowieckie) as their train was already at the station, but ZTM (Zarząd Transportu Miejskiego) are the main transport providers in the area. There’s pretty much dual acceptance of tickets, although there are some exceptions and I am no expert in what they are. Not much can go wrong with seeing which train is going first and buying a single ticket (or whatever suits) on their machine (KM are green, ZTM are red). The ticket machines have English, and numerous other languages, available.

    The platforms, with the signage being clear so that passengers don’t end up getting on the wrong train.

    There’s the train, rather lovely.

    I won’t mention his name here, but a friend was fined on Warsaw trains last year, on his first visit to the city, for not validating his ticket. Validation is the key   🙂

    Inside the train, with the journey to the central railway station in Warsaw taking just under thirty minutes. There are also other stations which the train calls at, with the service never getting that busy. There are regular announcements, in Polish and English, to ensure that customers don’t get confused at any stage. I didn’t have my ticket checked during the journey, but there was a guard visible at one end of the train if customers wanted assistance.

    And safely in Warsaw railway station. The ticket costs just under 4.50zl, meaning that the single ticket cost me around 90p. Which I think is a bargain to get from an airport to a city’s central railway station. Very lovely.

  • Flights – Heathrow T5 to Warsaw (British Airways)

    Flights – Heathrow T5 to Warsaw (British Airways)

    This was the clearest photo that I could get of today’s BA850 service from London Heathrow T5 to Warsaw Chopin Airport in Poland. The aircraft was G-EUPH, an Airbus A319, which British Airways have owned since April 2000 when it was new. These A319 aircraft are gradually being withdrawn from service, but they’ve served the airline well.

    As I was at B Gates lounge I asked the staff member if she could see where the flight was departing from before it was announced, to save me walking back if the departure was at B Gates. It was at Gate A23 in the main terminal and I was the first to arrive there, primarily since the gate number hadn’t otherwise been announced.

    And here’s the packed waiting area, although it soon got much busier. The staff were pro-active in trying to get customers with two bags to put one of them in the hold, as the flight was nearly full. Some people refused and so a different staff member, who was more forthright to say the least, went round and politely told customers that it wasn’t really an option. The amount of bags that customers are taking on board is becoming ridiculous, something will need to be done at some stage about them.

    The boarding process was otherwise orderly and well managed, with groups called forwards carefully and customers were despatched back to the seating area if they tried to jump the queue. I like organisation.

    I had an exit row aisle seat and there was no-one next to me, so it was a comfortable flight in terms of the space available.

    We were delayed on take-off, partly as the inbound flight had been a few minutes late, but primarily as the crew had problems trying to fit all the bags on. Some customers, mostly those who were trying to bring on a bag the size of a small hippo couldn’t find anywhere to store them. At one stage there were eight customers standing in the aisle of the aircraft with bags not fitting in anywhere, but the crew did their usual jenga tactics of moving and restacking bags, with another going into storage elsewhere.

    The flight eventually arrived into Warsaw twenty minutes late, so no real problem, with the crew members being conscientious with their announcements and updates. There was a buy on board service which went up and down the cabin, but I saw only a few customers buy anything from it. The fare was £55 return plus 2,500 Avios, although I get 1,350 Avios back with this flight.

  • Heathrow – Ibis Heathrow

    Heathrow – Ibis Heathrow

    I’ve stayed at this Ibis hotel near the airport a few times and written about it before. It’s a short free bus journey away if using TFL buses and there’s car parking available for those who insist on driving everywhere.

    This is one of the Accor hotels which persists in this habit of welcoming customers from the customer side of the reception desk. I don’t much like the practice, they’re often leaving screens open with names of other guests, and I’m pleased more Accor hotels are ditching this policy.

    The check-in process was relatively quick, but they missed my free drink voucher, although it was provided quickly enough when I very politely hinted about it.

    I’ve only once been given a welcome amenity by this hotel, and Accor themselves have told me to mark this hotel down for failing to do so every time. That seems a little harsh, but consistency is probably in the hotel’s own interests. The room was clean and well presented though, with a most lovely view of the car park. Everything was well stocked and worked properly, with the wi-fi being fine, albeit with a couple of drop-outs. They still have the anti-theft devices on their towels that I mentioned last time.

    The room this time didn’t have an information card about breakfast times, contact details and the like, but it now has a menu instead.

    The hotel is asking guests to pay £1 per bag they want stored during the day, which is donated to charity. I’ve never stored bags here, but I’m not convinced that charging for a service that guests would expect for free is an ideal solution here. I thought Accor hotels were meant to organise separate events to raise money for the Teenage Cancer Trust rather than this, but it is a marvellous charity to raise money for.

    This was provided after I queried where it was….

    The bar area, with two members of staff, one of whom was competent and welcoming, the other was, well, not. Bar work really isn’t an ideal role for those with misanthropic tendencies.

    The London Pride was off, just for a short while, so I went for the Goose Session IPA as I haven’t had it before. Slightly generic, but it’s an interesting additional option for the hotel to offer as nearly every customer I noticed order beer went for the Stella option….

    And served in a branded glass and at the appropriate temperature.

    The breakfast buffet arrangements, with the food placed on two large tables in the centre of the restaurant area. There were plenty of seating available and the manager was making continual efforts to keep everything clean and tidy. There didn’t seem many customers going for the breakfast option, but it starts early and runs late to cater for those with strange flight times, so perhaps it’s rarely overly busy.

    The croissants were particularly nice, although the muffins were the usual bland Ibis affair which the company must provide. The sausages were delicious and flavoursome, with the bacon either served slightly firm (my favourite) or with raw fat on it (my least favourite) which required some dexterity to get the piece I wanted. The ham lacked some colour and seemed quite grey, as if it had been out for a little while, but everything seemed organised and well presented.

    I had a look at TripAdvisor to amuse myself and the hotel was left this ridiculous review.

    “When I arrived at just gone 11am, which I have done on MANY occasions, I was expecting maybe a short wait to get into my room as 11 is a little early, what I wasn’t expecting was to be told the hotel was fully booked the night before & I would have to wait until TWO pm to check in UNLESS I paid an extra £20.00 & then low & behold a room would miraculously appear clean & ready for me.”

    I’m often one of those people who checks in early, but 11:00 is very early for a check-in…. £20 for early check-in seems reasonable to me, although it’s free for most under the loyalty scheme anyway.

    “You either have NO rooms available full stop because the hotel is booked OR you put your prices up on your website & on booking.com to reflect how much you are ACTUALLY going to charge people to get into their room at a reasonable time.”

    14:00 seems reasonable to me…. They definitely had a room, ready and waiting for those who wanted to pay…. This is the problems that hotels face, they try and help customers by giving them something they’re not entitled to, such as an early check-in, only for the customer to throw it back at them later on with a 1 star review when they don’t get the same favour.

    Overall, I can’t much complain (although I seem to end up doing so on here….) as the room, including breakfast, came to just over £30. For the convenience of Heathrow, this was ideal, plus I’ll get some points back on the new Accor Limitless loyalty scheme.

  • Heathrow – Free Travel Zone

    Heathrow – Free Travel Zone

    I’ve been aware of the free travel zone at Heathrow for some time and it’s a useful way of getting to the airport from Bath Road without having to pay for the Hoppa Bus. I stay relatively frequently at the Ibis Heathrow which is marginally outside of the zone, but it’s only a three-minute walk to the next bus stop that’s within it.

    For some reason (probably because I don’t think as much as I should….) I’ve always got the buses to the central bus terminal and then got the underground or Hex to T5 (both free for changing between terminals) from there. But, I realised today that there’s the 423 bus which goes straight to the delights of T5, so there was no need for me to go to the central bus terminal.

    It wasn’t the busiest bus that I’ve ever seen, although it picked up a few more passengers en route to T5.

    Image result for hal free travel zone

    And here’s the free travel zone in its entirety…. For anyone staying on the Bath Road, unless they’re at a strange place along it, getting the TFL bus is a handy saving on the otherwise quite expensive charges of the Hoppa bus.

  • Stoke Newington – Rectory Road Railway Station

    Stoke Newington – Rectory Road Railway Station

    This railway station doesn’t look particularly exciting, perhaps primarily as it’s a modern building. The station was originally constructed by Great Eastern Railway in 1872 as part of a new branch line which went down to London Liverpool Street. It took its name from, well, the street called Rectory Road, which is now known as the A10.

    In 1878, the owners of Manor Tavern, which was on the corner of Church Road and Rectory Road, advertised their property by writing “no neighbourhood in London is developing more rapidly than this. Since the opening of the station, building has been pushed on most extensively, and it is quite certain that within but a short time this house will be doing an immense trade. With these prospects it has also the solid present advantage of a large and lucrative business, everything being sold at the fullest prices”. The rent was £100 per year, which is only around £8,000 per year today, so quite a bargain in modern terms. The pub is still standing, but it’s now flats as it closed as a public house in the early part of this century.

    The footbridge over the top of the line, which has the road behind it, isn’t likely to win many awards for architecture. All of this was built in 1975, replacing the previous more basic structure with a more solid brick construction.

    Looking down the track, away from London.

    This line was operated by Greater Anglia, but it’s now run by TFL.

  • London – Fourex Machine

    London – Fourex Machine

    I’ve never seen one of these machines, but it appears that the company operates around 75 of them, primarily in London, but also at some transport hubs. They’re a way for customers to place in foreign coins and notes and get back out UK pounds, or another currency. They even accept pre-Euro currency, so an opportunity to get rid of some old French francs.

    The rates aren’t though the best. 1,000 Polish zloty are currently worth just over £200 (which is good, as they were lower a few weeks ago and I’m off there next), but this machine would pay £175 (or just £120 if coins were paid in). Looking at companies who provide buy-back, they give back from £195 at best (currency on-line group to £181 at worst (RBS). However, for convenience, the rates aren’t too bad in the scale of things and the banks don’t generally accept coins at all.

    It’s a marvellous idea though and I might look at my little currency reserves, which are very small, as there doesn’t seem to be a minimum transaction size. A very good idea and the transparency of having the rates on their web-site is also useful.

  • Greater Anglia : Norwich to London Liverpool Street

    Greater Anglia : Norwich to London Liverpool Street

    Something new that I’ve learned today, this is DVT 82121, with the DVT meaning Driving Van Trailer, a push-pull service which means that the driver can operate the train from the other end of it. Very useful.

    It wasn’t very busy.

    All was going very well until we reached London, when the train suddenly stopped and the driver made an announcement that he didn’t know why. He repeated that announcement a couple of times, which filled me with confidence, before announcing a few minutes later that there was a signals failure near Stratford. This became evident when we saw a freight train stuck in the middle platform of a station, whilst our train used an unusual platform when it eventually got into Stratford. But at least it meant that I will be able to make a delay repay claim, albeit for the lowest possible sum as the delay was relatively minor.

    The other end of the train after we arrived into London Liverpool Street. The staff were friendly on the journey, with the guard being thorough with ticket checking (which I like since rules should be followed…..) and the announcements were appropriate and informative. The ticket cost the bargain sum of just £10, so again, good value for money. And, as a bonus, the power sockets and wi-fi worked perfectly throughout, with plenty of table seats available for those who wanted them.