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  • Norwich – White Lion

    Norwich – White Lion

    I used to visit the White Lion on Oak Street in Norwich regularly and indeed had my 40th birthday get together there as well. However, in recent years, the bright lights of the Artichoke, Plasterers, Leopard and King’s Head have shone brighter, and they’re also much nearer to where I live, so I haven’t visited much.

    And here’s one of my favourite photos, Andrew and Susan enjoying themselves, with an eight year old looking Nathan serving behind the bar. Hopefully he won’t read this before we go to the pub tonight…..

    Anyway, I went back at the weekend as it was the Legstretchers Christmas party. This is the very exciting long-distance walking group of Norfolk Ramblers that I brought back to life in 2016, but I retired a couple of months ago and Maria and Stephen have now taken it over. Maria had a marvellous idea to host the Christmas party at the White Lion, so I felt the need to go along.

    The food and drinks menu….

    Back in the day, the White Lion was a cider pub and probably the best in Norwich, an award it frequently won from CAMRA. I had the Black Prince Porter from Bexley Brewery and the Kaiser from Welbeck Abbey Brewery, which were both well-kept, but they weren’t the most exciting and there was a limited depth of flavour from either. The keg selection of beers at the White Lion is quite weak, but at least they’ve got a number of real ales available.

    The burger, which was sufficiently meaty and tasted of a decent quality, with the wedges being cooked perfectly. I didn’t quite work out what the slightly hard lumps on the burger were, but the coleslaw was very moreish. A number of our group was eating and everyone seemed happy with their food, with the portion of nachos looking very generous.

    After we had listened to Richard sneezing, this was my attempt to teach everyone the rules of bar billiards after the meal……

    On the service, well, that was excellent. The member of staff behind the bar was engaging, friendly and personable, so the welcome felt authentic and genuine. Indeed, all of the staff members were warm and hospitable, there’s a really good team working here and they were a great credit to the pub. This feels like a really well-run pub and I suspect that someone new to the area who wanted to meet new friends would have some success here, a key measure of a venue in my eyes.

    If I’m being honest, the beer selection isn’t quite decadent enough to tempt me away from my usual haunts. However, what they had was well-kept and the pub is offering one of the best welcomes that I’ve had this year, so that’s all really positive. I’m sure that I shall visit again, perhaps on a more regular basis to recent months. I’ve never had the Sunday lunch here, either because I’ve been walking or out of the country, but it’s well reviewed and I will get the chance to try it one day…..

  • Warsaw – Jabeerwocky Craft Beer Pub (Visit 3)

    Warsaw – Jabeerwocky Craft Beer Pub (Visit 3)

    Just a short post because, as the title suggests, I’ve written about this bar in Warsaw twice before (visit 1 | visit 2). But, I very much like the welcome here and I visited a few times during my latest sojourn to the city. It might not have the most beers available compared to some other craft beer bars in Warsaw, but it has some of the most innovative and interesting.

    This is the insanely good Noa Pecan Mud Cake Stout from Omnipollo, beautifully decadent and the aftertaste was exactly the same as eating a rich chocolate cake. It’s 11% and is reviewed at 4.22 on Untappd, which is towards the higher end of the scale. On a visit on my own the week after, I had Podbipięta from Browar Łańcut, another superb beer which is 12% and has been finished in Bourbon barrels. That beer was just as decadent and also scored 4.22 on Untappd. And beer of that quality during my recent visits has to be noted….

    And the chorizo pizza was as good as ever, keenly priced (just over £5) and a beautiful complement to the beer.

    As a craft beer bar, this is definitely one of the best in Warsaw, with the service being friendly and the environment clean and comfortable. All really rather lovely.

  • Warsaw – Museum of Warsaw (Ravensbrück Concentration Camp Uniform)

    Warsaw – Museum of Warsaw (Ravensbrück Concentration Camp Uniform)

    Just a few more posts left about my visit to the Museum of Warsaw a couple of weeks ago.

    Concentration camp uniforms are always challenging exhibits for any museum, a tangible reminder of the horrors that took place during the Second World War.

    This uniform is marked with a ‘P’, meaning that the prisoner was Polish and this is from Ravensbrück concentration camp. It was owned by Maria Bortnowska (1894-1972) who was an activist for the Polish Red Cross and also a fighter in the Polish Home Army. Unfortunately, she is an another victim of the Soviet takeover of Poland after the end of the Second World War, as she started to investigate the Katyn Massacre where hundreds of Poles were killed by the Soviets. She was imprisoned, although the authorities had to release her when evidence came in from other survivors at Ravensbrück about her good conduct. Maria’s family donated the uniform to the museum in 1973 and I think it’s one of the most exhibits in their collection.

  • Warsaw – Mały Powstaniec (Little Insurrectionist Statue)

    Warsaw – Mały Powstaniec (Little Insurrectionist Statue)

    This statue has become something of an icon of Warsaw in recent years and is located just outside of the external defensive  wall of the Old Town. The imagery was designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz in 1944, before later being used in this statue.

    The monument commemorates those child soldiers who found themselves in the Warsaw Uprising in 1944. The helmet is deliberately over-large, to show the innocence of youth.

    The military equipment is German and was used by those in the Polish Home Army after they had seized it from the occupiers as part of the Warsaw Uprising.

    The old town wall is visible in the background and the statue is located on the former eighth tower of the perimeter.

    The bronze statue was funded by the Polish Scouting and Guiding Association, hence the plaque on the side. Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz, the original artist, allowed the imagery to be used for free, with the Scouts collecting 1 million zloty (around £200,000) from fundraising to pay for it.

    The plaque which notes that the statue was unveiled on 1 October 1984 and the guest of honour was Jerzy Świderski (1929-2017) who fought in the Home Army at the age of just 14. Jerzy lost his brother Bohdan Świderski during the Warsaw Uprising, but he survived it and became a Professor of Medical Science. It was unusual for the Soviet authorities at the time to allow this sort of imagery and depiction of the Warsaw Uprising, they’d spent some decades trying to belittle the bravery of the Polish Home Army.

  • Warsaw – Nine Men’s Morris Board

    Warsaw – Nine Men’s Morris Board

    This exhibit is on display in the cellars of the really quite marvellous Museum of Warsaw. I confess to not having heard of this game before, but it has been played since as early as the Roman period, and appears to have been relatively common. This particular board is made from clay and was discovered during excavations of the Royal Castle in 1971 and it’s thought to date from the seventeenth century.

    For anyone who wants to know the history of the game, there’s more information at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nine_men%27s_morris. What fascinated me about this game is that they’ve discovered it etched into the cloister seats at Norwich Cathedral, I assume by some youngsters who wanted to amuse themselves during some less than interesting hours sitting and singing. As an aside, it seems that if two experts play the game then it always ends up in a draw, which isn’t an ideal situation.

  • Warsaw – Municipal Tourist House

    Warsaw – Municipal Tourist House

    On another of my flights of fancy for this blog, this building seemed to stand out a little to me in Warsaw and it felt like it had a bit of heritage to it. Unfortunately, the destruction of the city during the Second World War makes buildings like this seem relatively rare.

    Fortunately, there was an intepretation board available to give some extra information about its history.

    Here’s a photo of the building being constructed in the mid-1930s, so it is a pre-war construction. What is perhaps the most interested element of its history, or is to me anyway, is that it was used by the Polish Home Army when they were trying to take control of Warsaw from the Germans.

    It was used as a bastion and was under the command of Captain Witold Pilecki (above in his Auschwitz photo) who I can only describe as a completely heroic person. This is a man who volunteered to get captured in 1940 to be able to infiltrate Auschwitz and he was one of the figures who was able to tell the world what was going on there. He then promptly escaped before coming back to Warsaw to fight in the Warsaw Uprising, a man of immense bravery. Unfortunately, the Soviet controlled communists didn’t take to this Polish hero and he was executed in 1948 following a show trial, despite Pilecki having had the chance to escape Poland and save his life. Since the collapse of communism, Pilecki’s reputation has been restored and he is a national hero.

    The street that the property is located on is Plac Starynkiewicza, named after this man, Sokrates Starynkiewicz, a Russian general who also served as the 19th President of Warsaw. By all accounts, he seemed to have been pretty competent, delivering the city’s first horse-drawn trams, the first telephone lines and Warsaw’s first sewer and water supply. When he retired from office, he decided that he’d like to stay in Warsaw and he remained there until he died in 1902.

  • Warsaw – Stacja Muzeum

    Warsaw – Stacja Muzeum

    This was one of the few remaining museums in Warsaw that I hadn’t been to, so when Richard was in the city for a few days, we had a little meander along on the free admission day which is on Mondays. It’s a fascinating building in itself, which was constructed after the Second World War and was the city’s main railway station until Warsaw Centralna opened in the 1970s.

    And that’s what it looked like during its period of operation.

    It’s quite sad really as the Poles had built themselves a lovely new railway station, as shown in the above photo, which was nearly finished by the outbreak of the Second World War, but the Germans destroyed it. That meant that the Poles had to use these temporary facilities for way longer than they perhaps needed to.

    This is the entrance to the museum and was also the rear entrance to the railway station when it was in use.

    We were given our free ticket passes by a friendly staff member at the entrance and the main waiting hall is the first sight for visitors to the museum.

    There are plenty of small trains on display, with the information being available in English and Polish.

    This is the same room when the building was being used as a railway station.

    A reconstruction of the railway station’s cafe arrangement.

    An old signalling installation.

    Some of the equipment which would have been in the signal box.

    A recreation of a ticket office.

    And a collection of clocks. There are two main rooms in the museum and it takes around thirty minutes to go around these. But then there are the outdoor displays, which are relatively substantial. It seems that the future of the museum has been confused for a few years and there has been talk of them moving out of these building somewhere else. I very much like the heritage of this building though, it seems to be a location that should be used as a museum. However, it’s also clear that there isn’t enough external space for all of the trains and carriages that they have, which they claim is the largest collection of rolling stock in Europe.

    This is a postal train that before the Second World War was used by a private railway company in Lower Silesia, which was then part of Germany. That part of the country was given to Poland after the end of the conflict and this train was seized as part of that process, becoming part of the Polish State Railways. The train remained in use until 1976 when it was then used in a number of films, before eventually becoming part of the collections of this museum.

    The old post-box on the train.

    It wasn’t possible to go in most of the trains, but this was one of the exceptions.

    There are some sizeable engines in the collections of the museum.

    This is a steam locomotive that was constructed by the Germans and brought into usage in 1940, with a maximum speed of 150kmph, which was later reduced slightly. The Polish railways took nine of these over after the end of the Second World War, with this one remaining in use on the network until 19 February 1967.

    I’m more interested in the railway network and carriages than the actual steam engines, but this is a beautiful looking train. It was built by the Polish in 1926 for passenger use, with some assistance from the Austrians. During the Second World War it was first taken by the Soviets for their usage, then it was taken by the Germans for their usage, before being returned to the Polish State Railways on 20 July 1948. It remained in use by them until 17 April 1970, the last surviving of its kind. Given that it was used by three different nations during its history, I do wonder what cargo it hauled during its time in operation.

    This was one of my favourite outdoor exhibits, a slightly rickety diesel carriage which was manufactured in Budapest in Hungary in 1954. It remained in use until June 1986, at which point it was given to this museum. It hasn’t yet been restored and I personally rather hope that it isn’t, as there’s something more authentic about seeing it in this state. Although it’s a shame that it can’t be covered somehow to prevent any worsening of the condition, particularly the peeling paint.

    It was possible to peer inside the carriage, and it’s fair to say that the interior isn’t the most decadent.

    It did though have a toilet.

    It was possible to look into this train.

    And here’s a photo of Richard having a little look in, after having bravely climbed up.

    This was quite a substantial museum in size and I thought it was an enjoyable place to visit, although it’s clear that they need some more financial assistance to take it to the next level. I hope that they remain on the same site, it was actually quite exciting (I accept that I need to get out more with comments like that….) to be in what was effectively the country’s most important station in the 1950s and 1960s, despite being of a relatively small size. Although we visited on free admission day, the entrance is otherwise cheap to get in (14zl, which is under £3), so is very much worth a visit.

  • Warsaw – Museum of Warsaw (Jan Połubiński Portrait)

    Warsaw – Museum of Warsaw (Jan Połubiński Portrait)

    Another random post of a painting that I thought was a little different.

    This is one of the paintings in the collection of the Museum of Warsaw, and it is of the general Jan Połubiński. I wonder exactly what sort of impression that the artist, F. Kiełpiński, was trying to give when he painted this in 1835. I’m not really sure that it paints him (literally in this case) in a particularly positive light. His face doesn’t exactly look full of love and it half gives the impression that he’s in bed, rather than in an important military uniform.

    What I do like is that the gallery have provided a photo of the rear of the painting on their web-site, which often tells an interesting story of its own.

    This painting was completed in the same year by the same artist and the sitter’s name has the same surname, so I’ll guess that this is perhaps the wife of the general. I think she’s come off better of the two here and she doesn’t look like she’s in bed.

    Anyway, I digress.

  • Warsaw – Chopin Airport Bolero Lounge

    Warsaw – Chopin Airport Bolero Lounge

    The last time I visited this lounge was in February 2020, when the travel situation was, I think everyone would agree, somewhat different. It’s one of several lounges at the airport, but it’s the most convenient for British Airways flights which have to depart from outside of the Schengen Zone gates. I remember last time that the signage to this lounge is pretty poor, which meant I only got lost once this time trying to find the damn thing as I sort of remembered where it was.

    The staff looked confused when I came in, which is never a situation that I find ideal. I think they were just more surprised that I was in the lounge that early, which was a little over three hours before the flight. The lounge actually allows for visits which are four hours before the flight, but for those with baggage they can’t check-in until two hours before, whilst most people don’t arrive so early to the airport. But, I do and that meant I was the only person in the lounge for the best part of an hour. The staff didn’t seem annoyed though and were always perfectly polite, so that was handy.

    It’s an oddly laid out lounge in terms of a lack of seating with higher tables, with these lower chairs not being as a popular. Although, by the time I left, all of the seating was in use.

    I assume that lounges in airports are exempt from the new maximum numbers rule that Poland has introduced, as all the tables were taken by the time of the flight and it did feel quite full.

    I think this was the only area that they discouraged seating at, although it would still be possible as the chairs were in place.

    I was delighted to see that the chocolates were still there. Last time I came to a lounge at this airport, the staff were handing out all of the food and drink as opposed to there being any self-service. It was hard to ask for as many chocolates and packs of honey roasted peanuts as I wanted with that set-up, but there were no issues here.

    The hot drinks area, with a wide selection of different teas.

    Coffee with chocolate and some form of cake, the type of which I’ve forgotten, but it was better than it looks.

    From 11.00, there is food served on trays and there’s a choice of five different meals, although it’s probably OK to get a second one. This one was the salami and cheese ciabatta, along with a salad of ham and pineapple which sounded dreadful. However, Green Eggs and Ham and all that, as the salad was really pleasant, the ham added texture as it was in little lumps (perhaps cubes sounds most tasty) and the pineapple added sweetness.

    There were a few beers to choose from, this one was entirely adequate, although it’s not going to win any international craft beer awards I think it’s fair to say.

    Other than how the busy the lounge was, which didn’t feel entirely appropriate given the current health situation, this was a really relaxed and comfortable visit. Staff were efficient and the lounge was clean, with plenty of food and drink. I do wonder whether they need to create more space for this lounge if visitor numbers are going to remain high, just to make everyone feel more comfortable.

  • Heathrow Airport – ExpressTest PCR Testing at T5

    Heathrow Airport – ExpressTest PCR Testing at T5

    I can’t say that I was particularly looking forwards to this, the PCR test that I had pre-booked with ExpressTest to be completed at Heathrow T5 following my arrival back from Poland. There’s been a lot of confusion about Day 2 tests and I note that British Airways have put out advertising today to remind customers that these tests can be taken any time after landing, they don’t need to wait until Day 2. But, I wanted to get this whole thing out of the way as it was already stressing me. The information in the e-mail was clear and I was easily able to find the testing centre which is at the far end of the Heathrow T5 arrivals hall (at the other end to the Underground).

    I had pre-booked a time that allowed for lots of delays with the flight and border control, which didn’t ultimately happen. However, the cheerful staff member at the front of the queue checking documents said that it didn’t matter, it was just to try and manage the number of people and I could just join the queue. That was helpful, as I didn’t fancy sitting near to the testing area worrying and sulking for an hour. I had already annoyed several friends by telling them how brave I was being, even though that’s usually a slight hint that I’m not entirely happy.

    Anyway, after being entertained by a man who said that he had booked a test at Heathrow T4 and the terminal was shut and wanted his test here instead (they obliged, although he was very rude) I was welcomed by a staff member after a few minutes in the queue. I was walked to a little area with a seat and I carefully surveyed the area to see where I might need to faint safely (I didn’t want to hit my head on any metal or sharp corners) if it all became too much. Anyway, the medical professional (I don’t know how trained they are, but I told myself they were a very experienced and senior consultant even though they were clearly aged about 22) was very tolerant of my comments of how frightening this was.

    After I had mentioned my bravery six times, the patient and tolerant lady explained that actually some people did faint and a lot were very scared. That helped no end, so I prepared myself for the surgery (apparently this isn’t actually technically classed as surgery, but I’d prepared for that sort of thing in my mind). I was so brave that the whole thing was over in thirty seconds and I didn’t gag or sneeze, so I was slightly disappointed as I felt that it was now easy for friends to say I had over-worried about the arrangement. The medical professional agreed that I deserved some sweets, which was handy as I had procured some chocolates earlier in the day.

    I thought that the whole process was professionally managed and the staff there were all helpful. I can’t say that I was thrilled to spend £60 on this, as that’s three months of unlimited Pret coffee, but there we are. It’s a little bit cheaper for BA customers who quote the BA code which is on the web-site. Just have to hope the test doesn’t come back positive now.