Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: London

  • London (Marylebone) – The Volunteer

    London (Marylebone) – The Volunteer

    Since I was in the Marylebone area I was going to pop into a pub listed in the Good Beer Guide, but unfortunately most of the ones around here haven’t re-opened yet. So, the Volunteer looked quite historic and interesting, located opposite Regent’s Park and also on Baker Street, of note to Sherlock Holmes fans.

    There was a very prompt and polite welcome from a team member, so it felt a friendly location. I was asked if I wanted to sit inside or out and I opted for inside as it’s still hot in London and there’s still been no rain to cool things down a bit. The pub’s web-site notes that “come along to The Volunteer, get cosy and escape from the cold in our pub”, but it was the reverse that I was trying to achieve. I had just been near frozen in the Metropolitan Bar, the local Wetherspoons, and I very much liked that, but this pub was a bit too warm for my liking. But, the weather is ridiculously hot, there’s a limit to what they can do.

    The beer choice wasn’t very exciting at all, the real ale choice was limited to Doom Bar. That meant I was only going to have half a pint, although the beer was well kept and tasted as it was meant to. They did apologise for this limited beer choice, I was unfortunate that they were between barrels. Whatpub mentioned they usually have three guests as well as Doom Bar, so the choice isn’t usually this limited. Customers seemed happy with the food and drink being offered and although I didn’t eat here, the menu looked like a mix of traditional British dishes and some more contemporary options.

    I was pleased to have visited though, there’s plenty of history to this pub and they explain some of it on their web-site. it takes its name from when it was a recruiting office in the nineteenth century (other stories for the pub’s name exist) and there are a few war-themed sections in the pub. The owners say that it’s haunted, but I’m pleased to note that I didn’t sense anything when I was there. The story goes that there was once a large property on this site, but it was destroyed by fire, and it’s the ghost of the owner of that building, Rupert Neville.

    The pricing was reasonable and the pub seemed well managed, feeling safe from a health point of view. I wasn’t asked to leave my name for track and trace, but they did have a QR code system to register on-line. The tables had already been socially distanced and I liked that staff were prompt to welcome customers at the front door. The main reason I like this pub is that it isn’t branded around Sherlock Holmes, even though they are just a few doors away from the museum. The pub could have felt quite tacky if they’d taken it down that route and hidden its own identity, so I thought it was all well thought through.

  • London – Soho (Brewdog)

    London – Soho (Brewdog)

    Part of my slow and steady attempt to work my way through the lists of Brewdog outlets, the Soho location is on two floors and is relatively spacious. The staff seemed to spend quite a bit of time worrying how they were going to fit their reservations inside the pub if it rained, not that they needed to worry, it didn’t rain and it’s still too hot in London. But, I digress and I can’t keep going on about how hot it is in the capital. Although it is very hot.

    I was seated alone at a table for eight, which seemed a grand use of space for me, but they weren’t getting particularly busy until later on.

    The interior of the pub, with the traditional Brewdog beer fridge.

    The menu board for those wanting to order at the bar. But, there were also drinks lists at the table and customers could order via the app as well. The coronavirus standards seemed to be high and the staff were asking customers to leave their details under track and trace, which a good number of pubs aren’t bothering with.

    I went for Wings Wednesday as this was half-price due to the Government’s Eat Out to Help Out scheme. The first portion is served as a large-size and then they top up the wings on request. I was marginally irritated that I tried to hide the blue cheese sauce, as that isn’t replaced, but a staff member swept it up when clearing the first plate away and no replacement brought. I did think about querying this, but I didn’t want to cause a scene over some blue cheese sauce. Even I’d struggle to complain about something that minor. Although I thought about it.

    The additional portion sizes were more moderate, even for Brewdog, and the service was reactive and never pro-active. I didn’t want another drink, but they didn’t ask about that, nor did they ever ask if I wanted more wings. I suspect they were suffering from having too many staff on, which can sometimes lead to poorer service.

    This was the Dr Todd from the Wild Beer Company, which comes in at the best part of £14 for a pint. I’m not made of money and so I limited myself to a third, which was probably the perfect size drink as the taste is strong and this is better sipped than downed. It’s a sour, which was pleasingly not too, well, sour, but it did have powerful flavours of ginger and lemon, along with a more subtle hint of honey. The drink has been aged in whisky barrels, which was also evident from the taste and I remain convinced this is the best way to experience whisky. So, have a drink from a whisky barrel that isn’t whisky. Win-win.

    The walk down to the toilets and also to the downstairs bar area.

    The Government’s subsidy made this very reasonably priced and everything seemed well managed and under control. The service was always polite, but it could have been far more pro-active. I have to say though, the Brewdog choice of drinks was outstanding, perhaps not the cheapest, but there were numerous innovative options. The atmosphere was laid-back and friendly as well, it was a comfortable environment.

  • London – Tavistock Place (Vladimir Ilyich Lenin Plaque)

    London – Tavistock Place (Vladimir Ilyich Lenin Plaque)

    This is 36 Tavistock Place in London and what might look like any other town-house, but it has a special little claim to fame. It’s where Lenin stayed in May 1908 on one of his visits to the city, conveniently located near to the British Museum’s Reading Room which he frequently visited during his stay. Under 10 years later he was the Chairman of the Council of People’s Commissars of the Russian SFSR, with the Tsars deposed.

    The plaque was put up by the Marchmont Association in November 2012 and they reported that not everyone was happy as they got a complaint from a local resident saying:

    “Appalling! He was responsible for a movement that caused far more deaths than Hitler, from which the Russians are only just recovering. I intend to email the Chair dissociating myself from the Marchmont Association.”

  • London – Amen Corner

    London – Amen Corner

    The beautifully named Amen Corner is located near to St. Paul’s Cathedral, in the bottom-right of the above map from the end of the nineteenth century.

    Although the buildings along Amen Corner are modern (and rather unimpressive), the street-line is original and is unchanged. The street takes its name from when monks used to walk along Paternoster Row chanting the Lord’s Prayer and they would reach the “Amen” section just as they walked down this street, before entering St. Paul’s Cathedral. That’s the story on Wikipedia and the one that’s repeated the most often on-line.

    However, a different reason was given in the nineteenth century, which was that this was where monks would find a corner to repeat their prayers privately, in the hope that they would be fortunate for a whole year. There’s probably more to this story than the perceived origin quoted today, but, I have no idea…..

     

  • London – Central London (Cordwainer Statue)

    London – Central London (Cordwainer Statue)

    This statue is located on Watling Street in the ward known as Cordwainer, named after the shoemakers who worked in this area. There’s a difference between a cordwainer and a cobbler, as the former makes shoes and the latter fixes shoes. The word is from the French ‘cordewaner’, meaning shoemaker, which is derived from the Spanish town of Córdoba in Andalusia whether the leather used in shoemaking was often from.

    The statue was commissioned in 2002 by the Ward of Cordwainer Club to mark their centenary. Initially, the statue was placed in the churchyard of St Mary le Bow, but was moved to its current location a couple of years later. The statue is located near to the site of the Livery Hall of the Cordwainers’ Company, where there were six successive halls from 1440 until 1941. When the hall was destroyed in the London Blitz, a decision was made by the company that they wouldn’t construct another. The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers still exists, but they’re primarily a charitable organisation, with some members being descendants of shoe-makers and some working in the industry today. One of their charitable efforts in recent years was a bike ride from Córdoba, where their name began, to London.

  • London – Christ Church Greyfriars

    London – Christ Church Greyfriars

    I haven’t paid much attention to these ruins before, but they have a considerable heritage as they are from a monastic church built in the thirteenth century on what is now Newgate Street. The monastery was dissolved during the Reformation and was turned into a parish church which was given by King Henry VIII to the Mayor of London for the use of the city’s population. This church building was though lost, along with most others in the heart of the city, during the Great Fire of London in 1666. The replacement building was designed by Sir Christopher Wren, but this in turn was unfortunately destroyed in 1940 during the London Blitz.

    The few sections of the remaining church still standing were demolished following the end of the Second World War, with the site turned into public gardens. There are some important people who have been buried at this site over the centuries, including Isabella of France (also the Queen of England), Marguerite of France (another Queen of England) and Joan of England (who was the Queen of Scotland). I’m equally confused as to who was Queen of where, but it’s evidence of the importance of the church.

    Some of the surviving arches and it’s positive that it was decided to keep this as a public park, rather than shoving up another office block on the site.

    The former door into the nave.

    The gardens are impressive and before this health scare meant fewer people came into London, I imagine that this was a busy place for those wanting to eat their lunch.

    The tower, which was completed in 1704, survived the London Blitz and was restored in 1960.

    There are many more photos of how the church used to look at https://thecitizensmemorial.wordpress.com/2012/05/19/11/.

  • London – Chinatown

    London – Chinatown

    Some photos from Chinatown in London on Monday evening. Although London had felt quiet all day, there was a bit more vibrancy with people taking part in the Eat Out to Help Out scheme and most restaurants looked pretty full. Within a short distance of Chinatown and Soho though it remained a different matter, numerous restaurants and takeaways not even opening at all this month.

  • London – Quiet on the Underground

    London – Quiet on the Underground

    OK, so Chancery Lane isn’t ever the busiest of London underground stations, but nonetheless, it was eerily quiet this afternoon.

    The packed platform.

    Endless amounts of warnings about social distancing.

    Mind the Gap…. Still quiet at Oxford Street.

    It was a little busier on the Oxford Street platform to get onto the Bakerloo line, but it’s still all rather quiet.

    As for TFL, they’re not doing particularly well at keeping people safe. The first two hand-sanitiser dispensers I tried were empty. So, on a quest to discover how bothered TFL really are, I tried another six more during my journey into Oxford Street. Two worked, another four were empty. I won’t veer into politics, but this really isn’t a particularly good look for TFL and pretty much every other transport operator seems to manage.

    Anyway, I quite enjoyed the quiet network and there was a very high percentage of people wearing masks and lots of social distancing. I did note one man cough and this alarmed a woman who fled the scene but, otherwise, all uneventful.

  • Greater Anglia : Norwich to London Liverpool Street

    Greater Anglia : Norwich to London Liverpool Street

    My last train journey was from Chesterfield to York in March 2020 and I didn’t expect it would take until August 2020 for me to make another. Norwich railway station looks different to when I last used it, with the ticket gates now left open and unmanned. There’s now directional signage around the concourse and a couple of the food outlets, West Cornwall Pasty and Starbucks, haven’t re-opened, nor has Marks & Spencer. It felt moderately busy, but nowhere near what I would have usually expected for a Monday morning.

    Waiting at platform 2, the new style train which serves the Norwich to London line.

    There was plenty of space for customers on board, just a handful of passengers in each carriage. The power points and on-board screens worked on the train, although it wasn’t doing a very good job of air conditioning and not for the first time this week I muttered to myself that it was too hot.

    Safely at London Liverpool Street railway station, the train arrived dead on time.

    The barriers were operating as usual at the station, with revenue protection officers and police questioning a couple of people as I walked by. So, although there’s no ticket barrier at Norwich and tickets aren’t checked on board, there are still mechanisms to ensure people have paid their fares. The concourse was relatively quiet and someone asked me how they could get out of the railway station, something I didn’t think was particularly challenging, but there we go. Once outside, it became evident to me just how quiet London currently is….

  • London – British Museum (Postwick Grove, Norwich)

    London – British Museum (Postwick Grove, Norwich)

    I usually visit the British Museum three or four times a year, something which is a little difficult to do with the current virus situation, primarily because it’s shut. However, they’ve placed hundreds of thousands of images on their web-site, so this will have to do me for the moment. The images can be used non-commercially, as long as the British Museum is credited. So, this is their credit.

    I like this print which is in the collections of the British Museum as it’s painted at Postwick Grove. I’d never heard of this place until we walked through it on Saturday, but it’s a once quiet area of the city where painters would come and be inspired by the peace and countryside. These painters would have also walked the similar route to the one we did on our 22-mile walk (more on that soon), although they didn’t have to cross the Norwich Southern Bypass.

    The print was produced by John Sell Cotman and there’s no precise production date, just sometime between the dates of 1813 and 1838. Handily the museum knows that it’s from before 1838 as Cotman included it in a book which he produced in that year, the ‘Liber Studiorum – A Series of Sketches and Studies’ published by HG Bohn. The print isn’t on display in the museum and was acquired by them in 1902 from James Reeve, a long-time custodian of the Norwich Castle Museum.

    This is what the artists would have seen at Postwick Grove, with the railway line to Reedham and Great Yarmouth to the top of the image, but it’s missing the huge dual carriageway which now ploughs vertically through the area. The addition of the Norwich Park and Ride parking area hasn’t done much for the peace and quiet either, but there is still an element of tranquility left.