Richard does some very sensible things sometimes, like going to a charity auction, having too much to drink and then bidding on a five course tasting menu with champagne at a two star Michelin restaurant. So that’s why I was here. I haven’t yet won the lottery.
The restaurant is located on the first floor of the Hotel Café Royal, one of Oscar Wilde’s favourite restaurants.
Overlooking the hotel reception where rooms start from £700 per night. I had booked the £38 Travelodge at ExCel though, I know my place. Richard compromised and was at the Novotel ExCel at nearly £100 a night, but he has aspirations of grandeur.
It’s all quite decadent. I think that would go without saying though.
We were seated at a table overlooking Regent Street, it was like sitting in a calm and suitably chilled observatory looking out onto a hectic street.
The champagne, which was Bollinger and which tasted like every other champagne to me, but I don’t claim expertise here. I didn’t expect otherwise, but I wasn’t surprised and delighted at the beer list, so I stuck to the free sparkling water, but Richard splashed out £120 on the wine pairing and spent the evening beaming like he had purchased a stake in a vineyard. I would have gone for a craft beer pairing, but although this is becoming more common, it’s still not treated in the way that wine is.
The menu for the evening which was swept away soon after, but not before I took this photo of it.
I think that they expected diners to have one roll each, but Richard had three, so I did the same. And then asked for another one later on, so that was four delicious rolls. The chorizo one, which is the fluffy puff pastry roll on the left, was really quite glorious and bakery certainly isn’t just a side show here.
The amuse bouche.
This is the aged Kaluga caviar. I’m not sure I understand the mystique of caviar, this was clearly a rather decent one with a creamy and buttery flavour, but I don’t understand why it has the luxury tag attached to it other than its rarity. But, hippo is quite rare, and they wouldn’t serve that. Anyway hippo matters aside, the sweetcorn retained some bite and the prawns added some texture to the arrangement.
This is the John Dory with brown crab and lovage, which proved to be my favourite dish of the evening. I like John Dory, it’s light but flavoursome, delicate and easy to bully, but it was the crab on the side that I thought was the decadent and rich tasting element to this dish. The presentation was rather fine as well, with a range of tastes and textures running through it.
A little mango based palate cleanser. Richard was struggling to keep up with his wines, as he had one per course. I was busy keeping up with my rolls.
This is the quail with courgette, anchovy and Parmesan, also being Richard’s favourite dish of the evening. I don’t get to eat quail very often, it’s not something Greggs pop in their selection of bakes very often, but it was gamey in flavour and also tender. The anchovy packed a salt punch through the dish, with the ingredients all complementing each other to give a real depth of flavour, with the Parmesan giving it that suitable umami feel.
The presentation here is quite special, with the meringue at the base being punchy and the sorbet being smooth and sweet.
A final trio closed proceedings, my favourite being a little praline number with a whisper of gold and a pleasing roasted-nut finish.
The atmosphere in the restaurant was inviting and comfortable, with a quite modern selection of music playing which I hadn’t anticipated. But, the aim appears to be to have a welcoming and informal dining experience, rather than a stuffy and unnecessarily upmarket one. There’s not much point in having a beautiful restaurant if no-one is comfortable in it though, so I felt that the design elements were all appropriate and in keeping with their aspirations. There was always a touch of theatre in the presentation of the food and plating elements at the table, but that never became intrusive. The restaurant was quieter earlier on, but got steadily busier so it was nearly full by the time that we left.
Overall, this was a rather lovely decadent experience, with the service being impeccable throughout. We were never rushed, but the pace of the dine was constant and appropriate, although it of course felt that it was over too soon. The quality of the food was as expected high and Richard was beyond excited about his wines, with the servers busily clearing crumbs off the table from my excessive consumption of rolls. I thought a lot of the dishes were quite understated and I reference that in a positive way, there was a competence rather than a desire to surprise by being quirky. The only problem Richard has now is that he’s decided this is the way he needs to live, so I expect to see him at all manner of Michelin restaurants over the coming few months….
