Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Poznan

Saturday : Beer, Burger and Churches in Poznan

Breakfast with a view in the shopping centre opposite the hotel. McDonald’s in Poland sell Jalapeño burgers which cost about 80p and are a suitably cheap and delightful breakfast option at nine in the morning. No Egg McMuffins or whatever rubbish you get in UK McDonald’s. I’m not sure why Jay Rayner would think about all this, but I’m sure that he’d approve.

I was lucky to get a seat with all the customers deluging the food mall.

Looks like Caffe Bimba in the old tram carriage has closed down. I can’t complain that I’ll miss it, since I’ve never actually been in it, but it is something of a iconic scene.

This sign notes that the German physicist Max von Laue (1879-1960) studied in this school between 1887 and 1891, at a time when the city was part of Prussia. He refused to help Hitler develop the German nuclear programme and remained opposed to the Nazis and their work.

The building is still used as a secondary school today. Excuse the angle of the photo, there’s a barrier to stop people being hit by trams and, if I’m being honest, I couldn’t be bothered to traipse all the way around to the other side of the road. My enthusiasm for this blog isn’t always endless.

The interesting Zbigniew Zakrzewski Gardens which aren’t named after the local Poznan footballer, but after the local economist who also wrote numerous local history books. This should be a fountain with water spraying out, I’m not sure why it wasn’t working, but I bravely walked across anyway taking the risk that the water wouldn’t start gushing out. I always have half an eye on everything being some sort of social media prank, so I can imagine the water starting just as I’m ready to take a photo in the middle of it.

Although recently modernised, this area of land has been a park since 1840, one of the first in the city. The Prussians decided they’d name the park after Erich Ludendorff (1865-1937) who was a war leader, that’s the sort of thing they wanted to celebrate back then. As an aside, Ludendorff refused to accept the rank of Field Marshal from Hitler in the 1930s, he said that he wouldn’t be promoted to a high rank by a corporal. The park and the trees were badly damaged during the Second World War, but that seems to be the story of most things in the city.

The park was named after Zbigniew Zakrzewski in 2008 and this figure is designed to be a professor wondering where the rain was, I’m not sure if this was meant to be Zakrzewski as he was a professor. The sculptures have an environmental aim, to make a thing of the ecological threats to the earth.

The figures in the park were all designed by Norbert Sarnecki.

This niche appears to be a modern recreation of an older feature, which they’ve included in the photograph. I know it’s a modern recreation as I had a look at Google Streetview of a few years ago, and it’s not there.

The Sisters of Charity nunnery which was established in 1595 by a group of Grey Sisters and it’s still in use as a church.

Standing opposite the nunnery is St. Francis Church, with the first consecrated building on this site having been completed in 1473. During the Swedish Deluge of 1657 the papers and the books of the church were pinched, with some of them still located today in the Royal libraries of Stockholm.

The church interior, but, of course, the story goes the way it so often does, with this being badly damaged during the Second World War. The Nazis used the building as a workshop, destroying most of the things in it.

The repairs to the church were mostly completed by 1972, although they weren’t finally finished until 1983, nearly half a century after the damage had been done. There’s a little collection of photos in the back of the church which shows some of the work.

It’s a peaceful, and long, church, and I had to be discreet with my photos as there were people praying quietly who I didn’t want to annoy or disturb. It’s a slightly odd arrangement that visitors have to climb some stairs to get to the main part of the church, but the reason is a sensible one, it’s to stop the flooding which once caused so many problems in this part of Poznan.

This church bell is a bit broken, so they put it here in 1980 (I assume they weren’t sure where else to dump it), but it was in use within the church from 1730.

More helpful old imagery of the city centre, this is from just after the end of the Second World War.

The square and they’ve done a really good job here, as this was until relatively recently just a giant car park. People don’t need to drive cars around so much in city centres, they’ve reclaimed this for pedestrians and it’s a lovely open space. The area was formerly occupied by St. Mary Magdalene Church, which at over 100 metres in height was one of the tallest in Poland. The Swedish attacked it in 1657 and caused substantial damage, but the city decided they couldn’t afford to repair it, so they left it for a while. Then, in 1773, the remains were hit by lightning and the church fell down. It was decided by the authorities that they’d better do something, so they rebuilt it, but whilst rebuilding it, it fell down in 1777. I think I’d be annoyed at the civil engineers involved with that one. They were having a think about what to do with it, before in 1780 the bits that remained were destroyed by fire. After another little think, they pulled it down in 1802 and flatted the area to make a square.

This 12 metre sculpture was designed by Piotr W Wełak and marks where the church once stood. Some of the remains of the foundations are visible to members of the public under the glass in a couple of places, but I can’t really take useful photographs as it just reflects back.

Formerly the Jesuit College, this is the Municipal Office for the city, the building dates from 1571, although is of course much changed since then. Very observant readers will note that I took photos of the other side of this building yesterday. I accept, of my two readers, it’s unlikely anyone noticed. But, undeterred, I persist.

The authorities in the city have some beautiful buildings from which to work from.

I’d had enough walking, so I went to Whiskey in the Jar, which is a small Polish chain that I’ve written about before (Gdansk and Warsaw).

The same menu as the other venues and the same delicious food. The beer is just Lech, but that suffices for a lunchtime refreshment. Man cannot live on craft beer alone. Well, they probably can actually, if served with burgers. Service was friendly and personable, although I struggled to pay at the end of it. This was another time when I ordered with what I consider my beautiful Polish, which the server understood, and then replied in English. Incidentally, that bloody knife was impaled in the board, I’m surprised I don’t do myself an injury with some of the food that I order.

This is the Holy Cross Lutheran and Methodist Church which was constructed between 1885 and 1886, although they decided against the new national Union Church which the Prussians wanted them to. Damaged during the Second World War, it was reconstructed by the Evangelical Methodists, although it doesn’t look decadently looked after today.

The Little Prince Mural which was painted in 2019 and has the lovely back story that it’s from the Open Door Organisation who support children with disabilities.

The work on digging up Poznan continues.

Colourful houses in front of the building zone in the city’s main square.

The city hall has been in this spot since the late thirteenth century, with the current building being mostly from the period between 1550 and 1560. It’s from this building that Heinrich Himmler gave an infamous speech in 1943 that was the first time a senior Nazi had admitted the mass extermination of the Jewish population. He did that as he must have assumed that the audience listening to him were fully aware of what was going on. Continuing on the theme of destruction I mentioned earlier on in this post, the building was badly damaged during the final stages of the Second World War, but was restored soon after and a more thorough repair took place in the 1990s.

A link to Sussex on the bar at Piwna Stopa, a bar which I’ve been to before, but has a suitably interesting ambience to make me want to return.

The beer board, all looking nicely balanced and lots of interesting options, although I was marginally disappointed that they’d run out of the Tankbusters Pastry Killer. The service was friendly and engaging, it’s a very decent craft beer bar this, with the team member merrily recommending beers of the style I wanted.

The interior of the pub is quirky and interesting, with lots of books about the place.

I went for two beers, both from the ever wonderful Funky Fluid brewery, these are Zingy and DDH Cloudy. It reminds me that more British pubs should have Polish beer, as Funky Fluid continue to surprise and delight me.

The beer board at Ministerstwo Browaru, usual friendly and welcoming service.

It’s a cellar bar, the interior is suitably slightly dark and atmospheric.

This isn’t under-poured, it’s not meant to go to the top of the glass and it was certainly very lively when being poured, with the team member taking some time to get this far. It’s the Kia Ora from Browar Gwarek, a fruity DIPA with a tropical taste.

I then went to Aldi to buy salami and crisps, what a time to be alive…. Poznan seems to be one of those cities which is becoming effortlessly on-trend, with a busy feel on a Saturday night, but it doesn’t have the backdrop of fighting, violence, shouting and intimidation that some UK cities have.

July 10, 2022
Thursday : Pizza, Beer and Goodbye to the Prime Minister

I didn’t get breakfast at the Ibis hotel that I was staying at, so I moved my office operations to the city centre Cukiernia Sowa. Look at all that healthy produce!

I went for hot chocolate with cream and a blueberry tart. I’m not going to get involved with politics on this blog other than to say that it tasted all the better for hearing the news during my breakfast that Boris Johnson had resigned.

No, not Jeremy Corbyn, this is the fictional character of Stary Marych, notable for his Poznan dialect which has evolved from this city bouncing between Germany and Poland. It was the Prussian city of Posen until it was restored to Poland in the years following the end of the First World War.

The basilica on the left and the City Hall on the right.

The rather lovely Fryderyka Chopina Park. What is now the City Hall was a Jesuit College between 1572 and 1773 and this park was once the botanical garden for the monks. The communist authorities put a kindergarten here following the Second World War and used the park as the playground, but it has recently been restored again so that the public can access it. Plenty of trees and shady spots, they’ve done a nice job of it.

Given that the park is named after Chopin, I think the statue that was unveiled to him in 1923 is a little small and doesn’t even stand out in the photo. It survived the Second World War because they hid it in 1939, but apparently this one is a copy as the original was damaged in 1997, although I’m not sure how.

I like it when cities provide interesting photo comparisons such as this.

The area in front of the City Hall offices. As an aside, I like the amount of seating everywhere in Poznan.

This looked like something intriguing for me to walk.

And it led to the ballet school, which was once part of the Jesuit buildings. It was used as a school until the middle of the nineteenth century when it became residential buildings, before its new lease of life as the School of Decorative Arts in 1921. It was badly damaged during the Second World War, but was reconstructed between 1954 and 1957.

A little memorial to Olga Sławska (1915-1991) who was the founder and creator of the school, but also a dancer of national importance. Her professional career had ended when the war had broken out, when she also lost her husband, although he had been a wealthy man and so she was able to use that money to create the school. She died in Poznan on 29 April 1991, which was International Dance Day.

The outside of the building. I’m also impressed how the city has put so many information plaques about their buildings around Poznan, shows a certain kind of civic pride I think.

The Roman Catholic Poznań Fara, or more formally known as the Basilica of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Mary Magdalene and St. Stanislaus, which has held basilica status since 2010.

The building was constructed between 1651 and 1701, using craftsmen from Poland and Italy, which perhaps explains some of the design features internally. Much of the interior was damaged during the Second World War when the Germans used the building as a warehouse, but it structurally survived the conflict relatively undamaged.

The richly decorated interior and those red columns, of which there are sixteen, are entirely decorative and aren’t supporting the structure.

I particularly like the design of those spiral columns in the aisles. I’m sure there’s an architectural name for them, but I don’t know what it is.

A chapel dedicated to Pope John Paul II.

They’re currently digging up the city’s main market square, another major development project to further improve the look of Poznan. This city has always had an air of confidence about it and it’s also one of the wealthiest cities in Poland and has the lowest level of unemployment, which is not far off zero.

The development work has somewhat changed the atmosphere of the square, it’s not quite as peaceful and relaxing to sit outside the restaurants and cafes now. But some of the cafes were still trying their best to carry on as normal.

The monuments around the square are being carefully protected and I like looking into the holes, to try and see the history of how the square developed over time. I couldn’t really see any interesting layers, it just looked like sand everywhere.

The colourful buildings will soon enough look out to a beautiful square.

A sign about the project, which as they note isn’t going to be completed until the third quarter of 2023, so this is a substantial period of change for the city.

I also don’t think that the project has been going for that long, given how much they still seem to be digging up.

They’ve marked on pavements where the city wall used to stand between 1253 and 1793. There are some parts of the walls and towers still visible, although they’re nearly all reconstructions. During the nineteenth century, Poznan also got an outer line of defences further out, when it became known as a fortress city.

Buildings being renovated everywhere.

The Children’s Hospital which was established in 1876, although I think this frontage belongs to the Holy Family Chapel.

The parish church of St. Martin, which signage at the site helpfully notes is the oldest on the left bank of the Warta river, so that’s most of Poznan. The oldest in the city is Poznan Cathedral, on the island of Ostrów Tumsk, which is also the oldest Polish cathedral.

The other end of the church, which was first built in the thirteenth century, before Poznan was even formally founded. The present building is from the early sixteenth century, but it had to be repaired in the 1950s as it suffered from substantial damage during the Second World War.

As this sign notes, the first monument in Poland commemorating Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) was placed here in 1859, but the Germans removed it during the Second World War. That’s not really surprising, he’s known as one of the great Polish poets and authors, he didn’t quite fit into the Nazi mould and the sort of culture they wanted following their invasion in 1939.

Piotr Wawrzyniak (1849-1910), a Roman Catholic Priest and economist who was important because of his role in promoting the Polish national movement, although I’m not sure that the Prussians appreciated that effort at the time.

They’re digging up large chunks of the city, I suspect it’s going to make it much better when they’ve finished. The money that is pouring into improvements across Poland is impressive and using it for civic projects seems entirely sensible. Although I suppose they could also fund the creation of a Craft Beer Quarter if they had any money left over.

A quick look inside the Galeria MM shopping centre, which isn’t one of the most exciting and takes its name as the two streets that it is located on both begin with the letter M. As good a reason as any I suppose.

Some artwork relating to the Poznan Goats, one of the icons of the city.

It’s not too hot in Poland at the moment, much to my great relief, but this is one of my favourite installations as it helps in keeping people cool if nothing else.

It’s also quite attractive, so a public installation that’s appealing to the eye and helps them cool down.

It’s possible to walk through the middle of the arrangement, which I did on a few occasions as I’m easily pleased by these things.

I didn’t entirely understand this set-up, but it seems to be mostly little sheds selling a variety of food and drink. Like food trucks, but more permanent.

A statue and water fountain.

It was clearly too cold for most people to sit outside, but this is my perfect weather, sitting outside in the wind. I hadn’t had this beer before and perfectly acceptable it was too. The staff member at the stall I selected didn’t speak English, so I was fortunate my Polish language skills include knowing nearly every style of beer that I like. I can’t do anything useful like converse with people, but I can order beer. But that’s enough I think, no point overloading myself with complexity.

All the other customers enjoying the cold.

Pizzatopia and this was bloody lovely. It’s a concept based around craft beer and pizza, so that’s a winner straight away. The system is like Subway, you choose your pizza base, the sauce, the cheese, the toppings and so on, and it’s cooked in just a few minutes. The team members were very engaging and helpfully spoke English, although they’ve put the options in English and Polish which also assists matters.

One of the best pizzas I’ve had, with a very decent IPA to go with it. Very much recommended, this is one of my favourite pizza places and it reminds me of Blaze Pizza in Pasadena, Los Angeles, which had a similar set-up but which didn’t have the craft beer (although it might have done, I can’t remember). Definitely recommended, they’re a small chain at the moment, but I suspect they’ll get bigger quickly with this sort of offering.

And I went for a walk by the River Warta, enjoying that it wasn’t too hot. With the knowledge that Britain will be getting a new Prime Minister, it was a memorable day.

July 8, 2022
Friday : Cheesecake, 1956 Poznan Protests, Express Oriental and a Walk Around the Park

After checking out of my Ibis hotel after a peaceful stay, I went on another little stroll around Poznan, with this being Corpus Christi Church. I learned something new here about host desecration, which is the process of when Jews in the medieval period were accused of deliberately destroying the sacred host. This state of affairs annoyed the Catholic as it involves the body of Christ and all that.

I can’t remember if I saw this image a few weeks ago at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya in Barcelona, but it’s an example of the desecration. As with many of these things, a lot of the allegations made against the Jews were untrue, designed to cause division in the community or as an excuse to expel the Jewish residents. This is relevant in Poznan as apparently this happened here and where the authorities found the desecrated host, King Władysław Jagiełło decided to build Corpus Christi Church to mark the event.

The church is in active religious use, although isn’t routinely open to the public, but the building isn’t in great condition as can be seen in the first photo. The frontage of the church, as visible in the above photo, is though better.

A statue commemorating the life of Hipolit Cegielski (1813-1868), a local man who was an industrialist and social activist. Krzysztof Jakubik designed the statue and it was installed here in 2009 to mark his contribution to the city, including the foundation of the first Polish newspaper in Poznan, called Gazeta Polska.

As I again didn’t have breakfast at the hotel, I this time went to Da Vinci caffe bar for a little snack.

Rather decadent surroundings, with a friendly welcome from the staff member at the counter.

Cheesecake and latte, a suitably delicious breakfast. That slice of cheesecake is bigger than the photo looks, I probably didn’t need to eat it all.

The city’s Imperial Castle, a slightly odd building was isn’t really a castle at all, it’s more a palace constructed by the Germans in 1910 for Wilhelm II, the last German Emperor and the King of Prussia. It was used as Government offices after the war, but was also designed to be used as a personal flat of Adolf Hitler and substantial amounts of reworking took place in the early years of the Second World War to deliver that. By 1943, they’d given up with that plan, their efforts were being redeployed to stop the Soviet advance on the eastern front.

A maths thing for Nathan and Richard, this commemorates Henryk Zygalski (1908-1978), a mathematician who was born in Poznan and was involved in cracking Enigma. He remained in the UK after the end of the Second World War, teaching maths in a small provincial school. I wonder whether his students were aware of his contribution towards the war effort….

I’m not sure what the two aircraft were doing. Well, obviously they were flying, but beyond that.

As I mentioned yesterday, there’s no shortage of construction work going on across the city. It’s rather lovely to see all this work and investment taking place to improve the infrastructure.

The 1956 memorial is a reminder of the horrors of Soviet control of Poland, when in June 1956 the authorities ruthlessly suppressed a trade union strike. 10,000 soldiers were brought in by the communist authorities, and they massacred 49 civilians during street fighting, including the murder of 13 year old Romek Strzałkowski, with a street in Poznan now being named after him. 28 June is an annual day of remembrance to mark the bravery of those involved with the uprising, which is now seen as an important milestone in the defeat of communism.

In the years that followed, the authorities tried to suppress information about the atrocity that the Soviet and Polish authorities had committed, but following the advent of Solidarity in the 1980s, the truth started to out once again. This enormous memorial was installed here and unveiled on 28 June 1981, which wasn’t an ideal situation for the authorities at the time who most certainly didn’t want it. But, despite their efforts, it went up and 200,000 people were present at the unveiling, including Anna Strzałkowska, the mother of the little boy who had been killed.

That reads ‘Poland Reborn to the Sacred Heart’, with reference to when the country regained its independence in 1918.

I mentioned yesterday about how in 1940 the Germans destroyed the first statue in Poland of Adam Mickiewicz. The Poles didn’t like that, so in 1960 they built this much larger statue of him instead, designed by Bazyli Wojtowicz. Adam, if I might call him that, is today wearing the colours of Ukraine, which seems very fitting in this square, which is now named after him.

In 1956, the Soviet tanks rolled into Poznan, like they do today in Ukraine. People cannot be subjugated. Anyway, away from politics…

Designed by Edward Furstenau, this building was constructed between 1905 and 1910 to be used by the Prussian Royal Academy, but it’s today used by the Adam Mickiewicz University for lecture and conference halls.

The railway tracks, and I was intrigued to see why they had closed off the underpass.

I’m not entirely sure why I was so intrigued by this. Sometimes I fear this blog veers into the irrelevant. Actually, nearly every post veers off on that course, but there we go.

Dworzec Letni, or Summer Railway station, which was built by the Prussians as a private railway station for Emperor Wilhelm II. Known then as Kaiserbahnhof, the Polish railways in 2011 connected the building back up as part of the station and it goes down to the platform still. They’re put some information boards up on the building to note the work that took place.

After all that history, I needed food, so I went for Express Oriental.

It’s self-service and customers pay at the end depending on how heavy their plate is, a concept that seems more common in mainland Europe than in the UK.

It looked suitably delicious and judging by the number of customers, it was also quite popular which seemed a good sign. Incidentally, most of the other customers were using chopsticks, but I’m not highly trained in using those, so I stayed with the knife and fork that I’m better trained on.

That fried chicken with almonds looked particularly moreish. However, I had to show self-control, which is a little rare for me, as I didn’t want to break the scales with the weight of my plate.

Mango lassi, I had to have that!

I accept my presentation here isn’t great, but it’s not easy to place food delicately on the plate in this sort of set-up. The food and drink cost just over £5, which I thought was entirely reasonable. I also liked the size of the plates, they were like Alan Partridge’s big plate.

This slightly complex piece of street art is certainly very different in terms of its creation and it’s by Sten & Lex of a random person they knew. It’s a combination of paper which is partly cut out and then painted, creating this unique effect. There’s more of their work on their web-site at https://stenlex.com/category/en-plein-air/.

Our Lady of the Queen church, constructed between 1904 and 1907 as a Protestant church, but it became Catholic following the end of the Second World War.

It’s a pleasant little church and there’s a market behind it, mostly selling fruit and vegetables, so I didn’t linger there.

Poland has become very enthused with these parcel delivery boxes, which I know are common across the world, but they seem more used here. I took a photo of this as there’s actually another one about fifteen metres down the pavement, but it’s got green plants on the side to camouflage it, but it’s an indication of how much they’re used.

I had a little walk to John Paul II park (Park Jana Pawła II w Poznaniu) and was pleased with the state of the weather and it rained a little soon after this. I’m glad the days of hot weather are gone, and as loyal readers (or the loyal reader) will note, the blog posts get longer when it’s not too hot.

I had a meander around, it’s a decent park which was only created in 1970, mostly on top of the debris they’d dumped there from Poznan’s war damage.

There’s a lake and numerous walking areas, all rather pleasant.

The park was named after the Pope in 1983 following his visit to Poznan on 20 June of the same year. A slightly staggering one million people came out to see him, which is an impressive number by any standard, although there was a political element to proceedings then, as well as religious. On the same day he beatified Urszula Ledóchowska and this memorial was put up to mark his visit.

A memorial to Cyryl Ratajski (1875-1942), the Mayor of Poznan who famously refused to give the keys to the city hall to the Germans when they invaded the city. This rather glorious memorial was installed here in 2002 in front of the city’s central financial building.

Excuse all the photos, but this is an outstanding conversion of a former brewery into a shopping centre. Stary Browar has two main wings and over 200 shops and restaurants. There are numerous art installations throughout the site, but there will likely be more about this shopping centre over the next few days on this riveting blog.

The reason for that likely burst of more posts about the shopping centre is that I’ve moved hotels to the Ibis which is located opposite.

It’s an odd set-up, the Novotel and Ibis share the same building, the same reception and seemingly much else. Nice room though, with desk, which is lovely. The windows don’t open, but the room is freezing cold which I like, so no complaints on that front. The staff members were friendly and helpful, it feels like a well managed hotel. I haven’t got anything to complain about yet anyway.

What a lovely gesture and the peanuts were delicious. Very much appreciated.

And the view from the hotel window. All really rather lovely.

July 8, 2022
Wednesday : London Luton to Poznan with Wizz Air

After my quite scintillating story of getting from Norwich to London Luton Airport (that in itself is a bit aspirational, Luton is hardly in London but I won’t go off on that tangent) it starts again in the airport terminal. I had enjoyed a pre-departure nap at home, so was planning to be hugely productive overnight in getting things done, which I’m pleased to say did work out. I know Dave Morgan will be once again surprised and delighted at hearing about these exploits of my very slightly odd travel.

Two points. Firstly, I can’t relax before a flight, I have to keep checking the board. Secondly, note the only flight on the entire board that was showing as delayed.

So, what is there to do at London Luton overnight? Nearly nothing if I’m being honest. There is limited seating in the airport, although fortunately, I did find a space, not least as I got there so early. It’s a terminal which can’t really cope with the number of passengers it gets, and there were in the hundreds of people waiting at the terminal overnight for their morning flights, far more than when I was at Heathrow T3 a couple of weeks ago. I was pleased to note that the Pret landside opened early, so I moved there to enjoy a single can of Coke and three hours of charging my devices with their electricity. I’m not entirely sure they made much from my largesse. It wasn’t that busy though, I didn’t stop someone else from sitting down as it was never full.

Going through security was easy, other than my superglue was spotted in my liquids bag and they went off to test it. I’m not sure if there’s some odd drugs related use for it as that’s the machine they used, to swab it for drugs. The lady at security asked why I had superglue and I replied that it’s because I break a lot of things and want to fix them quickly. She seemed happy at that slightly odd answer. It’s actually because I was worried about my shoe breaking last year, which I’ve since replaced, but I’ve decided the superglue might be useful for all manner of reasons, so I’ve kept it.

After lots of faffing about, and nearly entirely catching up on this bloody blog, gate 30 was announced for the Wizz Air flight to Poznan. I have no sort of priority on this flight and certainly didn’t pay for that benefit, so I meandered slowly around the back of the queueing system, whereas the people in the above photo are rushing to go through the priority line. I got to the front of my queue for unimportant people and a staff member waved me forwards. I mention I’m not priority and she shrugged and said she didn’t mind either way, which ironically meant I ended up ahead of most of the people who had been rushing. This had the exciting benefit and advantage of my being able to stand further ahead on the stairs down to the aircraft.

Here’s the aircraft, which had been slightly delayed on its inbound journey, hence why we were operating around forty minutes late at this point. It’s an A320 aircraft, registration G-WUKD, which Wizz Air have operated since new in 2018.

The boarding process. I had let people get ahead because I kept faffing about taking photos of the aircraft. I think people thought I didn’t get out much, but I just wanted to ensure this blog had some photos that weren’t blurry. Selfless I tell you, absolutely selfless of me.

I could hardly deal with the excitement of being in a middle seat for two hours. But, I paid £8 for this flight, so there’s no way that I have anything to complain about. The aircraft wasn’t particularly comfortable, but it’s a short haul journey that isn’t much longer than some bus journeys, so it was perfectly sufficient. It was also just about full, although the lady in the row behind me was on the phone to someone in the terminal who had somehow missed the flight. She didn’t seem that concerned about the fact that her friend wasn’t going to get on the flight, I had hoped for a little more drama if I’m being honest.

I was quite embarrassed (although I’m not sure why, there’s a limited amount I can ever do about these things) at the British passenger who had a go at a Polish member of cabin crew, as he said he wanted to sit on the back row. The back row is often sealed on Wizz Air flights, sometimes for trim reasons of aircraft safety and sometimes because the crew sit there. Anyway, the helpful member of cabin crew politely told the man three times he couldn’t sit there. He replied “I’m sitting here, that’s the end of it”. It wasn’t the end of it, the crew member suddenly got bored of being polite and replied “Sir, you will need to leave the aircraft” and she clearly meant it. He argued, she stood there and asked him to make his decision. He grumpily moved back to his assigned middle seat further down the aircraft, but only after giving her some more abuse. It’s sad to see to be fair, but I’m pleased the crew member stood her ground, but I get the impression that she’s used to it, which is perhaps an even greater shame. The pilots sounded professional as well, we ended up arriving around thirty minutes later than expected, and they kept everyone updated.

The airport terminal in Poznan is visible in the background, but we needed a bus to take us to the non-Schengen gates at the airport. I just held back, I was in no rush, but once again, fortune favoured me and I joined a queue which for reasons unknown moved so quickly that I was at the border control desk way ahead of those in the other parallel lines who had started queueing up before me. Then I got delayed because the border control lady, who was perfectly amicable and friendly, decided she would count my time in the EU. It seems this can only be done manually, there’s currently no way of them doing this using technology, so she carefully worked through all my passport stamps and it took her a fair while. I didn’t want to undermine this process, she was doing her job carefully, but I knew I was within the limits as I carefully use a Schengen calculator to ensure I’m not spending too much time in the EU. She thanked me for my patience and I was on my way, pleased to be back in Poland.

They were then stopping every traveller and asking if they had food. I clearly didn’t, I rarely keep food in my bag long as I’m too excited to eat it rather than carry it about (my food I mean, not the bag), but another man had his egg taken off him. I have no idea why he had an egg, I assume it was hard-boiled though unless he had been very careful during the flight.

With all that excitement out of the way, I got a ticket for the bus. It’s possible to walk from Poznan airport to the city centre, but it’s a ninety minute walk and, frankly, I couldn’t be bothered, especially since the bus ticket is under £1. Dave Morgan would be horrified, I hope he doesn’t read this. I think he walks all distances of under 40 miles.

The bus went to the central railway station in Poznan, which is a city I’ve visited before I think on three occasions. I do perhaps need to start going to some new places, but I like the reassurance of these reliably excellent Polish cities.

Back in the Ibis Poznan Stare Miasto, which I had forgotten I’d stayed at a couple of years ago. All reliable as ever, friendly staff, a functional room, working air conditioning (although, fortunately, it’s not too hot in Poland, unlike in Krakow a couple of weeks ago) and a window that opens. Just lovely.

My welcome drink of a Żywiec Porter. It’s definitely good to be back.

There’s a Biedronka supermarket next to the hotel and I was sufficiently tired not to have to want to go finding food anywhere else, so this was a handy option. So this little selection, which looks like a kid who likes alcohol has bought it (there’s a reason for that), just had to do. I’ve posted this so I can comment on the price, this came to just over £5. Note the British cheddar cheese at the back, which would have likely cost about £3 on its own in the UK. I probably didn’t need all this, but I hadn’t eaten all day and I felt I deserved a little treat.

July 7, 2022
Poznan – Old Zoo

This zoo opened in 1874 and it remained the city’s main zoo until 1974, when the New Zoo partly replaced it as it no longer offered enough space for the animals. This location is much nearer to the city centre and I rather liked it, primarily focused on reptiles but still with plenty to see. It was relatively quiet when I visited, with plenty of space for the animals and reptiles that remained, with entry today being free to enter the park area and it was just over £1 to see the reptile house. I don’t like snakes in general, but I like looking at them through glass.

Anyway, this post is primarily photos from my visit in 2016…..

December 5, 2020
Poznan – Lech Brewery Tour

These photos are from my visit to the Lech Brewery in Poznan back in 2016, although I’m disappointed to see that they have now been permanently discontinued.

I managed to arrive a few minutes late due to circumstances beyond my control (I got a bit lost) and was rather nervous that I had kept around 50 people waiting when I saw the assembled crowd. It transpired that this group was for the Polish tour, whereas the tour English had just me and two Irishmen on it. They seemed to drink a lot of Guinness.

There was a walk across the brewery site to start with and the tour guide was enthusiastic and keen. He didn’t actually work for the brewery and was instead trained by them to offer the tours, but he was very engaged with the whole thing, so it was a good choice. However, he admitted that the brewery had told him that real ale wasn’t really going to take off in mainland Europe and it was becoming less popular in the UK. I suspect that was more wishful thinking from the brewery management, and I’m not sure that Lech has made much progress in the direction of real ale or craft beer at all.

My knowledge of the brewing process is limited, primarily as I seem to fail to be able to grasp anything scientific. I think I just like looking round factories and then having a drink, but I remember it was sufficiently interesting.

A model of the site.

At the end of the tour there was a drink provided at the brewery’s own bar.

This is a very poor photo, especially as I must have forgotten to take one when the glass was full (and that’s how it started off). I was also given a Lech bottle opener which I still have and is one of my favourite bottle openers (insomuch that I have favourites….)

Anyway, the tour was cheap to go on, the guide was engaging (and spoke English fluently), everything look sparklingly clean everywhere and the beer was as good as Lech gets. Since I visited the company has been taken over by Asahi Breweries and it’s disappointing they’ve chosen to stop tours entirely. I can’t confess to being a huge fan of Lech beer (and their reviews on Untappd are painful to look at) but I was impressed at the professionalism that was visible at the brewery itself.

December 5, 2020
Poznan – Restauracja Ratuszova

This not being able to travel thing means I’ve decided to resort to looking at old photos, these ones are of my visit to Restauracja Ratuszova in September 2016. Located in the heart of Poznan, this was, and still is, a well reviewed traditional Polish restaurant. Obviously I was in an exotic mood at the time, as I opted for an outdoors table.

Zywiec is OK, I prefer Zywiec Porter, but needs must…. All was as expected on this front.

I think I was still going through my cider phase at this point, this is a strawberry cider from Kamron (a cider producer from Kielce) as clearly my half litre of Zywiec wasn’t enough.

I have been asked why I keep ordering non-Polish food when in Poland. That’s because for my first ten or so trips to Poland, I did keep eating local food, and in this case, the national dish that is pierogi (or dumplings). They are very lovely, but, with the best will in the world, quite a lot of Polish food can be stodgy, and hence why I often veer off towards other cuisines. But, I do revert to these traditional Polish dishes from time to time and am rarely disappointed.

In the case of this restaurant, the dumplings were filled with wild boar and they were rich in flavour, served with spinach, Chanterelle sauce and cranberries. There were helpful English speaking staff, it was a comfortable location and so all rather lovely. The meal came to £10 which included the two drinks, so given the central location, this seemed entirely reasonable.

December 4, 2020
Poznan – New Zoo

This was my visit to Poznan’s New Zoo (the Old Zoo is still open and in the city centre) in 2016 and I remember it primarily as I only saw two other visitors there). I went on a weekday morning in September and the zoo is huge in terms of the amount of walking required, although there’s a little train service for busier times of the year. There were quite big gaps between the enclosures, but this is deliberate to give the animals as much space as possible.

The one benefit about there being so few other visitors (other than no kids shouting about) is that the animals seem more interested in coming to have a look. Perhaps they’re hoping that they might be fed, but it was a handy advantage to get so much solitude. The admission fee is low, just a couple of pounds. Everything at the zoo seemed well cared for, not just the animals, but also the enclosures and public areas.

Anyway, here are some of the photos….

December 4, 2020
Poznan – Fighting Goats

The Poznan fighting goats are one of the big sights that visitors to the city should see, when they come out of the town hall at 12 to have a little fight. I’ll upload a video of that at some point (as well as an explanation of the legend), but for the moment, this photo is a sculpture of the goats, with some Christmas themed clothing added for them.

January 6, 2019
Poznan – Taj Mahal

Indian restaurants in Poland can be of a variable quality, sometimes not being very authentic with their cuisine. Externally this restaurant didn’t look particularly exciting, but it was very well reviewed, so I felt that it deserved a visit.

Menus with photos are often not a good sign of tasty food to come.

Classic Pepsi styling, nice.

The restaurant was much smaller than I had expected, with only around six tables in it, but it was also set up for takeaways. I still wasn’t particularly hopeful about the food at this stage.

And then the food arrives, and it’s excellent. The butter chicken, with goodness knows how many calories, had tender pieces of meat which actually seemed to have picked up the flavour of the sauce. Some Indian restaurants seem to dump in the meat at the last moment, and it doesn’t work well at all, but that didn’t happen here.

So, the curry itself was delicious, and the lemon rice also had a suitable amount of lemon flavour without being overpowering. The bread was moreish, and had a delicious and lingering taste. It was all a generously size portion and I struggled to finish everything, although I did manage to (as usual really). The cost was around £6, which I thought was very reasonable given the quality of the meal.

The service was under-stated, but polite, and the only complaint that I could really make is that the restaurant wasn’t big enough and it didn’t have any toilets. Perhaps they’ll be able to find slightly larger premises in the future, or perhaps they’re quite happy here in their location near to the town’s main market square.

January 6, 2019