Category: Poland

  • Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Birkenau – Wooden Barrack for Children)

    Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Birkenau – Wooden Barrack for Children)

    It’s hard to imagine the suffering that would have taken place in this small area, formerly a wooden barracks at Birkenau where children were kept. They were mostly Jewish twins, kept alive for a while so that Josef Mengele could conduct experiments on them.

    Mengele would work in his laboratories every morning, before rushing to the ramps where Jewish prisoners were being brought in by train in vast numbers nearly every day. Usually Hungarian Jews, he would monitor the selection process of who would live and die, looking particularly for anyone he considered might be useful for his medical research.

    The children would for a while receive sufficient food and drink, and for the twins, it was essential that both stayed alive. If one died, usually due to some experiment initiated by Mengele, then the other would be killed so that there could be a comparable autopsy.

    Today, there isn’t much left of this barracks. Like many others on the site, it was only ever a temporary wooden structure and it wasn’t well-built at the time meaning it has since been lost. All that remains now is the bricked area in the centre of the barracks, which was part of a rudimentary and mostly ineffective brick heating duct.

  • Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp

    Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp

    I visited Auschwitz-Birkenau just over four years ago, in 2016, which pre-dates this blog. I’ve never wanted to re-visit the camp, although it’s somewhere that perhaps in an ideal world that everyone would want to go and see, to understand what happened here.

    I’ll put more photos up over the next few days in separate posts, but there are three I took that day that are the most memorable to me.

    This is a replacement sign as the original one was stolen in 2009. It was recovered, albeit cut into three pieces, but the replacement was left up and the original is now in the camp’s museum. It’s at the entrance to Auschwitz (Auschwitz and Birkenau are two different camps, but are nearby and are grouped together) and it’s one of the first things that visitors see. I had deliberately arrived early on in the morning as I didn’t want to go around in a guided tour, I preferred to walk around on my own. So, there were relatively few people around at this time and the camp felt quiet and still.

    This is the railway line that led into Birkenau, the right-hand side is the ramp, where selections would have been made on who would live and who would be killed immediately. Thousands of people would arrive here, 80% would be killed immediately including nearly all the children. For some children, they never realised what was happening. They usually arrived on cattle trucks and parents would often provide reassurance to their children that things would be better here. I’m not sure that many parents thought that it would be, but that gave some hope to the hundreds of thousands of innocent children who were denied the chance to live their life.

    Something like 1.1 million people died at Auschwitz-Birkenau, although the true number will never be known. The number is too big to comprehend. Thomas Buergenthal, a child survivor from the camp said about the 6 million Jews killed in the Holocaust:

    “One of the problems with the six million number is that nobody can imagine that. You cannot personalize six million. You can personalize one person. I think it expresses a reality. It is true, because each one of those souls was killed, and each one had an individuality of his own, a history, a memory, a life, and that is lost in this whole discussion when we sort of cavalierly go over and speak about six million. It’s important to keep that in mind.”

    So, I picked one individual from the many photographs on the walls. Seweryn Głuszecki, with a colourisation of his photo at https://facesofauschwitz.com/gallery/seweryn-gluszecki/. So little is known about him, he was born on 19 June 1925 and arrived at the camp from Krakow on 17 April 1942. He died on 20 June 1942. Seweryn’s father Norbert and his brother Rudolf were also transported to Auschwitz. Norbert died on 13 May 1942 and Rudolf died on 24 June 1942.

    It’s only when thinking of one individual, whoever it might be, that the realisation of just how enormous a figure 1.1 million people is then starts to make sense.

  • The Pianist by Władysław Szpilman

    The Pianist by Władysław Szpilman

    I posted earlier this week about when I visited to see the property where Władysław Szpilman was found by a German who helped to save his life.

    I had only seen the film the Pianist, but was recommended to read the book which Szpilman wrote and which the film was based on. It also has some extracts from the diaries of Wilm Hosenfeld and I have to say (write) that the book was hard to put down and I got through it in a couple of hours. I’m pleased to note that the book is available for free here. There might be a queue to read it, as it works like a library and only a limited number of people can have the book downloaded at one time.

  • Warsaw – Ibis Warszawa Ostrobramska

    Warsaw – Ibis Warszawa Ostrobramska

    I stayed at this hotel twice over the last month, once for one night and once for four nights. I also had to delay writing this review until I spoke to Accor customer services, as the hotel’s manager entirely confused me. Although the hotel has given the blog a new tag-line.

    My first visit was mildly confused as the room they gave me wasn’t ready, although fortunately a cleaner stopped me en route and helpfully referred me back to reception. She was very polite, but I was in no hurry so I walked back to reception and thought that I’d enjoy the welcome drink. Little did I know incidentally about the later welcome drink debacle.

    The only beer available was Zywiec and this was under-poured. But, since it’s Zywiec, I wasn’t too bothered. The staff member was very apologetic about the room mix-up and I was offered the food menu, which I decided against, but I thought that the staff had been so polite that I’d dine here on my return visit.

    The bottled water and a chocolate. I wasn’t sure whether this was in every room or it was a welcome gift, but either way, it was all very nice.

    The room, which I’m entirely content with. On the Ibis room matter I posted excessively about, I’ve been moderately relieved to hear from Accor that their plans are being tempered, so we’ll have to see what happens with the future of Ibis rooms and their modernisation programme.

    The breakfast room, which is also where meals are served in the afternoon and evening.

    The breakfast selection, cold meats, cheeses and there are some hot items available as well.

    Right, but now onto the second visit, which started fine and all was well.

    About once a year, I get bad service at a pub, restaurant or hotel. It’s incredibly rare for me to experience, something like 1 every 150 visits or so. And, I try and be sympathetic as I don’t know why I’ve received poor service, it could be that the staff member has received some bad news, they’re tired from working hard or something which is entirely relatable. I’ve never previously poor service in Poland, on all my tens of trips, this was the first.

    I’ve also spent the last 31 days non-stop in Accor hotels, so I thought it’d be interesting to try the food at an Ibis hotel, and as mentioned above, I had intended to eat here as the staff member had been friendly on the previous occasion. I was also conscious that the Accor member of staff I had spoken to at their Head Office had said they’d monitor my experiences, which is almost certainly something said to shut me up, but I like to please. Ibis run with the same menu across Poland, but I haven’t had anything from it for a couple of years and it’s nice to see how things develop.

    On a different note, I was pleased to receive this drinks voucher which is new marketing as part of Accor’s switch to the ALL loyalty programme. This differed from the previous voucher I had received at this hotel and, experienced as I might be with Accor vouchers, I hadn’t seen this one.

    Just as an aside on this, there are plenty of drinks vouchers out there and hotels vary in what they offer. They don’t have to be really generous and offer nearly any drink, but some do and they’d use the voucher on the right. Some are more limited, they put on the voucher to check the drinks at the bar, it’s a more limited list. They’re equally common and both are used in Poland. I don’t much care which is used, it’s a little gesture, I don’t assume that I’m going to get the most delicious craft beer.

    Anyway, back to being pleased with Accor’s drinks voucher for this hotel. I thought I’d opt for a Zywiec Porter and a burger from the main menu, perhaps buying another drink later on. This plan was all going swimmingly, until I got to the bar.

    The barman ignores me and my hello in Polish, but I put that down to the translation issue that I can’t speak the local language very well and clearly they can. Sometimes I get that a staff member can’t speak English and it’s no doubt frustrating for them. Anyway, he clearly doesn’t want to serve any customers, offering someone else before me a less than polite service, and by this stage he seemed entirely irate at me and ignored me for a little while before serving me. Unfortunately, the barman decided that I must be stupid and he made that very clear. His behaviour didn’t credit his hotel, but we’ll put that down to factors that I have no knowledge of. But, staff sneering at customers isn’t a good look.

    A relatively large number of my friends don’t like going to restaurants or bars on their own, they find it difficult. I’ve long stopped since caring about these matters for me, but I do always ponder how it would affected friends that would have built up confidence to order at a bar. Conscious that customer service staff are on the receiving end of all manner of abuse, I’ll assume that this barman was having a bad day, but it was some of the worst customer service that I’ve seen and exceptionally rare for Poland.

    But, I’m not going to deal with anyone who sneers at customers so I opted for a Pepsi to take to my room, and abandoned my plan to order food. However, I did e-mail the hotel from upstairs (how very British of me, although I did this as I didn’t want any service recovery, I thought that I was being helpful) and query their bloody voucher as without that, I’d have probably never encountered the poor service and I’d have instead happily ordered food. To cut a very long story short, they are defining “any drink other than champagne or spirits” as “any small beer, wine or soft drink”. So, it’s not any drink other than champagne or spirits, indeed, it’s a tiny choice from what they offer paying customers. And, really, the hotel management is blaming Orbis (the company who run Accor hotels in Poland) for giving them the voucher to give out. The management seemed to think it was fine to just hand the voucher out, not mention any limitations, let customers sit down in the restaurant and then mention at this stage the voucher isn’t being honoured. Why on earth try and turn the positivity of a free welcome drink into a negative, I’m unsure.

    This situation confused me, and I decided that I must be an idiot and that the hotel manager was perhaps entirely correct. However, I spoke to Accor customer service, and they replied that the hotel should stop using that voucher and I should tell the hotel manager. At this point, I realised I had done enough to reassure myself that the hotel was at fault, so I just left it. I didn’t tell them that it was the hotel manager that decided the voucher was correct.

    But, moving on to my thoughts about the hotel generally. The staff at breakfast and the cleaning staff were all friendly and polite, the hotel was spotlessly clean and there were no noise problems either internally or externally. There’s not much point in trying to re-evaluate my entire experience because the member of bar staff sneered at me, but nonetheless, I can’t help thinking that the manager’s decision to give customers a voucher which told them they could get any drink, and then decide that this meant “any drink from a list” was really to blame here. But, such things are up to them, and I was otherwise happy with the hotel. It’s located a little way from the centre of Warsaw, but there are frequent trams which stop just a few minutes away, so it’s not an inconvenient location given that. The prices can also be a little cheaper than the city centre Ibis hotels because of its location.

  • Warsaw – Chopin Airport Bolero Lounge

    Warsaw – Chopin Airport Bolero Lounge

    The lounge that British Airways use at Warsaw Chopin Airport is the Bolero Lounge, located in the non-Schengen section of the airport after the automated passport control. There was a friendly welcome from the staff member behind the desk when I entered and I didn’t have to wait to be given entry into the lounge as there was no queue.

    The main food section of the lounge.

    Some higher tables and chairs.

    Fridges with soft drinks.

    There was some hot food, which didn’t look too exciting. The Greek salad was though lovely, with olives on the shelf above it as well.

    I had quite a chunk of the lounge’s blue cheese, but there were other types of cheese to choose from and also some cold cuts. There were also cereals, yoghurts and some wraps.

    Chocolate.

    Fudge.

    How very lovely. The lounge didn’t let me down with regards to the chocolate selection and there was a lady from the United States who was almost beside herself with excitement over the options available to her. I was quite pleased by that as she left a larger pile of empty chocolate wrappers than I did.

    Since my flight was delayed by an hour, I thought I’d have one beer. I hadn’t heard of this one, it’s a Pilsner style beer brewed by Browary Lubelskie, a brewery founded in an abandoned monastery in 1844. They also make the big-selling Perła beer, which I have heard of before. The beer was fine, nothing exceptional, but it met my expectations and I hadn’t exactly expected the lounge to stock a range of craft beers to meet my ridiculously pretentious needs.

    The lounge got busy during the three hours that I was in there, although it was relatively quiet when I had arrived. I found a power point to charge my devices, although there weren’t as many of these as there perhaps could have been. The staff were going around the lounge on a regular basis clearing away empty plates and glasses, so it all felt clean and organised. The toilets are also located at the rear of the lounge, so there’s no need for customers to leave and come back in.

    I gained entry into the lounge as part of my BA status, although they also accept Priority Pass and similar card schemes. There’s also the opportunity for customers to buy entry, which is currently 130zl, or £26, which seems a ridiculously high price to me which goes beyond the price of some UK lounges. I suspect that people might be best to spend their £26 in the range of airport restaurants, but each to their own….

    There aren’t any announcements made in the lounge, but there were plenty of screens and it transpired that it was just a five-minute walk to the gate for my BA flight. The lounge was generally peaceful other than for some idiot doing rounds of the lounge whilst talking loudly into his phone, I suspect so that people could hear how important he was. I didn’t credit him with more general awareness, so I doubted that he realised that people were making their own visible and audible opinions on him behind his back.

    Anyway, a peaceful and clean lounge, and I’d happily come back here for a few hours if I fly back from Warsaw Chopin Airport in the future. All very lovely.

  • Warsaw – Train from City Centre to Chopin Airport

    Warsaw – Train from City Centre to Chopin Airport

    Above is the S2 train having arrived into Warsaw Chopin Airport, so that’s the end of my one month stay in Poland. Well, assuming that my BA flight to London Heathrow arrives in as expected.

    My tram hadn’t arrived into Warsaw city centre until just after the S2 train left from Warszawa Powiśle railway station to the airport. However, I hadn’t visited that railway station before, so I thought I’d meander around for thirty minutes until the next train. By chance, and surprisingly as Polish trains are normally so punctual, I managed to catch the train before which was running a few minutes late. I only just caught that as I had been faffing about reading history information boards, but it was a most convenient way of saving half an hour.

    The train wasn’t particularly busy and arrived just a few minutes later than it should have done into the airport. I already had my day ticket for Warsaw public transport (which costs under £3), but it’s easy to buy tickets at machines throughout Warsaw city centre. I haven’t had my tickets checked at any time in Warsaw though, but there are quite steep fines for anyone who doesn’t have one and that acts as the deterrent.

    So, all very lovely, although I’m not entirely thrilled to be leaving Poland.

  • Kielce – Jan Karski Bench

    Kielce – Jan Karski Bench

    Jan Karski was one of those people who just have a story of ridiculous levels of bravery during a war, escaping capture, enduring torture and managing to transport themselves around the country looking to serve it. Karski’s reputation has primarily been sealed by the work he did in alerting the world to Nazi atrocities, as well as assisting the underground movement in Poland. He reported on the Warsaw Uprising, since he had become part of it, to the western powers and the Polish government in exile.

    Karski survived the war and decided he’d like to live in the United States, which he did, working as a lecturer specialising in Eastern European politics and affairs. One of his students was Bill Clinton and in 1982 Karski was given the honour of being added to the Righteous Among Nations list. He died in 2000 at the age of 86, having certainly lived a full life.

    Some information about his life.

    Well, I guess he liked chess.

    There are similar statues on benches in Karski’s honour in Warsaw and in Łódź, as well as in the United States, in New York and Washington DC.

  • Warsaw – Bierhalle

    Warsaw – Bierhalle

    I’ve been to several Bierhalle outlets across Poland, indeed I think around half of their entire chain, which aim to serve German food and drink in an accessible manner. This outlet is connected to the Westfield shopping centre and they operate another three outlets across Warsaw.

    I was welcomed promptly by the staff member near to the entrance and shown to an appropriate table. There’s an upstairs area for when it’s busier and I like the little gangway to get there.

    Nathan would have been pleased with the snooker at least…… The environment does feel like a German beer hall, so the operators have nailed that.

    The choice of beers.

    This is the dunkel, at the appropriate temperature and tasting adequate, but devoid of any depth of flavour. Very generic and not particularly exciting, although it was cheap.

    The menu process wasn’t explained to me, but it was apparent that they had a lunch buffet arrangement going on, which nearly everyone was ordering from. I did go and have a little look at the food, but it looked more frightening than appetising, so I sat back down. I’m not entirely sure what food it was, but I’m sure it was very lovely (well, I’m not, but each to their own). The prices though are way too cheap, there’s something wrong if they’re ditching out food at these low prices.

    However, the staff were all very friendly, the environment was clean and the prices were all towards the lower end of the scale. As for this restaurant chain generally, I used to find it more appealing than I do now, I think time has passed since I went to Bierhalle locations a few years ago and it now all feels just a bit jaded in terms of its implementation.

  • Kielce – Stumbling Stones

    Kielce – Stumbling Stones

    I’ve written about stumbling stones before, or Stolperstein, which are located throughout Germany, as well as in Poland, France, the Netherlands, the Czech Republic and other countries. They’re usually cubes made of concrete with a brass inscription, which has the name of the Jew or Jews who were killed in the property which they’re located outside of.

    Here they have a different concept from in many other countries, as although they represent a similar meaning of where Jews were killed, these poor souls were killed after the Second World War. These memorial stones are located on a stretch of pavement outside ul. Planty 7, which is where 42 Jews were killed in a pogrom on 4 July 1946.

    In short, not many Jews returned to Kielce after the end of the Second World War, about 200 people out of a pre-war Jewish population of 20,000. Those who came back tried to rebuild their community, but an allegation was made that the Jews had taken a child and hidden him in the basement. The child in question had actually sodded off berry picking and the Jewish community had done nothing wrong. They tried to reason and although the Polish police initially refused to believe the story being told to them by the drunken father of the child, things escalated and the Jews were attacked. 42 Jews died and a similar number were injured, with this having devastating effects on the Jewish community across Poland, many of whom now felt entirely unsafe. It also tarnished the reputation of Kielce for decades, a mindless attack on the already decimated attack on the Jewish community upset many in the country.

    Anyway, here is the memorial which has been built for them, so that the names of at least some of the Jews who died won’t be forgotten.

  • Kielce – History Museum of Kielce

    Kielce – History Museum of Kielce

    I had another of my little problems when visiting this museum. I had decided to visit the museum on a day when they were having a lecture about some local history matter. So, there were tens of people flooding into the museum building to listen to it and someone tried to offer me a seat and a drink. This clearly wasn’t ideal, I was hoping to see the museum, not the lecture as I wouldn’t have understand most of it as it was being given in Polish.

    So, stumbling with my best Polish, I found a staff member who initially thought I wanted to use the cloakroom to hang up my coat. Although, I obviously wasn’t wearing a coat, so the very helpful staff member pointed upwards in a questioning manner. I said yes, hoping that the museum was upstairs and that I hadn’t had some discussion on the after life with her. All was well though, she found an English speaking staff member who seemed genuinely pleased that someone wanted to see the museum.

    The next problem was that the museum area was locked, so we have to find a member of the security staff to unlock a series of doors. However, always willing and helpful, the museum transpired to be bigger and much more substantial than I had expected.

    A map of Kielce from 1828.

    In the nineteenth century, Kielce was effectively part of Russia and they implemented dual languages for their house numbering signs.

    A motorbike made by Huta Ludwików, a company which is still trading, in 1938 and which was the first to be made in the city.

    The entrance to the Jewish ghetto during the Second World War.

    A cassock and coat which was worn by Czesław Kaczmarek, the Bishop of Kielce from 1938 until 1963. Between 1951 and 1955 he was imprisoned by the communists because it was known that he had friends in the United States.

    Overall, this was a lovely museum, with helpful staff and absolutely no other visitors when I was there, other than for the lecture which was marvellously attended. Much of the display was available in English and it took the visitor through the city’s history in chronological order. There did seem to be some gaps in the narrative, but there is perhaps a limited amount of space and much of interest was in the rooms that they did have.