Category: Poland

  • Warsaw – Metro System (Visiting Every Station)

    Warsaw – Metro System (Visiting Every Station)

    20250401_105753

    I obviously need a new project since I only have about 18 ongoing ones….. It’s not a great secret that I have a moderate obsession with trains, metros and trams, although coaches and buses usually annoy me, so I can be picky rather than randomly loving all forms of public transport. The evolution of metro systems also intrigues me, I’ve been on a couple of systems in China which were expanding at an insane rate, and on systems which don’t seem to be getting bigger any time soon.

    The Warsaw Metro system (Metro Warszawskie) is the only rapid transit system in Poland and it’s of a manageable size as they only have two lines. After many failed starts to the project, the first section didn’t open until 1995 and a second line has since opened. The first line goes from north to south and is the M1 (the blue line) and the second line goes from east to west and is the M2 (the red line). They cross at just one place, Świętokrzyska, and there are plans to extend the lines and also to open new lines.

    So my intention here is to cause mass excitement for my two loyal blog readers with no end of posts about the history of the network, but I’m also going to visit every metro station and try and find something interesting to write about all of them. To check this will sufficiently interest me, I’ve already visited eight of the metro stations and I haven’t lost engagement yet, so I think it’s safe to start posting this. I’m starting with the M2 line, but to get us going, here is a list of all of the stations. I’ll eventually hopefully link to all of them. And, yes, I should probably get out more if I think metro systems are this exciting, but there we go…. I’m not saying this will be fascinating, but it’ll keep me sort of quiet for a little while.

    OK, given all of that, here is a list of the currently operational stations on the Warsaw Metro system, based on the network status since the last openings in September 2022, grouped by line:

    M1 Line (North-South) – 21 stations

    • A01 Kabaty
    • A02 Natolin
    • A03 Imielin
    • A04 Stokłosy
    • A05 Ursynów
    • A06 Służew
    • A07 Wilanowska
    • A08 Wierzbno
    • A09 Racławicka
    • A10 Pole Mokotowskie
    • A11 Politechnika
    • A13 Centrum
    • A14 Świętokrzyska
    • A15 Ratusz Arsenał
    • A17 Dworzec Gdański
    • A18 Plac Wilsona
    • A19 Marymont
    • A20 Słodowiec
    • A21 Stare Bielany
    • A22 Wawrzyszew
    • A23 Młociny  

    M2 Line (East-West) – 18 stations

  • Warsaw – Hopito Parkingowa

    Warsaw – Hopito Parkingowa

    20250401_152035

    This is one of two Hopito outlets in Warsaw and this is their newer venue, which I usually always visit when I come to the city. The service is always personable and efficient, it’s a comfortable and on-trend atmosphere as well. The venue’s craft beer list is available at https://hopito.ontap.pl/. There are usually twenty-one taps available with a well curated range of beers, including sours, porters and some rarer beer styles. The team members are knowledgeable, keen to engage and willing to offer samples. I’m not entirely sure why it’s named as Parkingowa, but that’s the name they use on Untappd and so that’s what we’re using here, although I’m sure there are better things to name it than after car parking. It’s located on ul. Żurawia and it’s won numerous awards over the last couple of years.

    20250401_152329

    I haven’t had a flight here before, but there were a number of tempting options (including from my favourite brewery, Funky Fluid) and so I couldn’t choose just one. The flight was branded with the Hopito logo, as were the individual glasses.

    The beers, from left to right, are:

    Gelato : Royal Orange from Funky Fluid and I wish that all orange juice tasted like this. It was a smooth beer with a suitable level of sourness, with flavours of mango and peach in addition to the orange.

    Crisis Identity from Browar Monsters, like a sweet, malty chocolate delight, with a rather decent lingering flavour.

    Born in the USA from Funky Fluid, clean, light and tropical. A credible beer, although I think that Funky Fluid’s strengths lie elsewhere.

    Mochi Green – Kiwi, Banana & Mochi from Magic Road. A rather lovely pastry sour, with the kiwi and banana being evident and it’s a nice and smooth beer.

    The Last Call from Harpagan, an oaty and roasty beer.

    This was an interesting selection of beers, it’s always a delight to see what they have here.

    20250401_152646

    This is the n’duja pizza and it’s the first time I can recall having burrata on a pizza and it was quite marvellous. The heat from the n’duja was in contrast to the creaminess of the burrata, with the base having a richness of flavour and suitable leopard spotting. The pizza is the equivalent of less than £10 and for the quality, I thought that was a bargain, even though it’s one of their most expensive options. Decadent and delicious, I might come back and have this pizza option again at some point later in the year. It would be hard to eat this without a knife and fork, it’s something of a creamy and saucy delight.

    There’s quite an artistic feel to the interior and although it was quiet when I visited in the late afternoon, it gets busy in the evenings and on weekends. The toilets are a little challenging to get in given the arrangement of their beer barrels, but where there’s a will then there’s a way. The atmosphere is informal and relaxed, with customers needing to order their food and drink at the bar. The venue’s pizza oven is visible behind the bar to add to the authenticity of the whole arrangement.

    The venue is centrally located and under 100 metres from one of my favourite hotels, the Novotel, although that’s been a little pricier than other options recently so I have stayed there for a couple of years. I will definitely be coming here again, it’s in my opinion one of the best craft beer bars in Warsaw with an excellent selection of craft beer and some delightful pizza.

  • Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (St. Mary Magdalene’s Church by Adelbert Woelfl)

    Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (St. Mary Magdalene’s Church by Adelbert Woelfl)

    20250318_131544

    This painting is in the collections of the National Museum in Wrocław and was painted by Adelbert Woelfl (1823-1896) in 1867. Woelfl was the best known artist of landscapes in Breslau, the German name for the city, and he was himself German having been born in Münsterberg (now known as Ziębice and part of Poland since 1945). It depicts St. Mary Magdalene’s Church which had been where the first Lutheran services had been held in the city in the early sixteenth century and it remained a Protestant church until the end of the Second World War, when it was restored to the Catholic tradition. I rather like the painting, it’s realistic and there’s a sense of reality about the individuals going about their business.

    Here’s what the same view looks like now. The church was badly damaged during the Second World War and was substantially rebuilt, but they’ve been faithful (if you excuse the pun) to the original design, although the towers have been changed somewhat.

    This is what fascinates me though, we have a German painter painting a German church in what was Germany. Everything is still there today, but everything has changed.

  • Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (St. Martin from St. Martin’s Church)

    Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (St. Martin from St. Martin’s Church)

    20250318_133349

    This wooden polychrome sculpture is in the collections of the National Museum in Wrocław and depicts St. Martin of Tours (336AD – 397AD) who was known for cutting his cloak in two to give warmth to a beggar. Very benevolent, although I wonder why he didn’t give him the whole thing, but there we go. As with all these things, some of the cloak that Martin kept survived and became relics likely dotted around numerous locations. The most important one was originally at Marmoutier Abbey and there were priests put in charge of looking after the holy cloak relic and the head priest of this operation became known as the cappellanu. Eventually, all priests who went to serve the military became known as cappellani, which in English became the word chaplain and that was all named after this relic.

    Anyway, I digress. This sculpture was likely made in a workshop in Wrocław and it has been dated to around 1490. It was located at St. Martin’s Church, the only survived building from the former Piast’s castle in Wrocław. Before the Second World War, this was where the Polish people in the German city would have gone for services, but the building was damaged during the conflict. The sculpture is in relatively very good condition and a fair chunk of the paint has remained. And the moral of the story is that if you give half of your coat to a beggar, then you too could maybe have your own church named after you in the future and perhaps a word named after you as well.

  • Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (Pieta from St. Vincent’s Church)

    Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (Pieta from St. Vincent’s Church)

    20250318_133719

    This pietà is in the collections of the National Museum in Wrocław and it was made in the area, likely in around 1420. It’s a depiction of dead Jesus following the crucifixion, designed to have emotional intensity and evidently from the Gothic tradition. It’s a medieval polychrome wooden statue, although the colours have rather faded away over the centuries. I am fascinated by these depictions, not because they’re particularly cheerful, but because I can try and imagine the thousands of people in the medieval period who would have looked at them and maybe inspired by them.

    It was originally located in St. James’s Church which was founded in around 1240 as a Romanesque church, although it underwent significant Gothic reconstruction in the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1530, after the displaced Premonstratensians took the church over when the Franciscans were kicked out, it was rededicated to St. Vincent of Saragossa which was their patron saint of the monastery that they’d been thrown out of. The building was badly damaged during the Second World War, including the Hochberg Chapel where this statue had been located. The chapel has now been reconstructed and they’ve placed a copy of this statue in there, with the main Cathedral (as it now is) being the home of the Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church. I’m not sure whether this statue was recovered after the war from the damaged church, or whether it was moved earlier on to protect it, but it’s something of a survivor.

    I also rather like that when this statue was originally placed here, the church was in Poland state (the Piast dynasty), although it then came under the control of the Kingdom of Bohemia, then the Habsburg Monarchy, then the Prussian Empire, then the German Empire, then the Weimar Republic, then Nazi Germany and only in 1945 did it return to Poland again.

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (B01 : Panoramist)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (B01 : Panoramist)

    20250318_100841

    This gnome of Wrocław is located on the windowsill of the Panorama Racławicka at ul. Purkyniego 11, with more of this important museum coming in a future post…. (oh, the anticipation of it all!) This gallery has the monumental panoramic painting depicting the Battle of Racławice, hence the brave gnome on a horse.

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Unknown 1)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Unknown 1)

    20250319_140429

    One thing that I’m surprised by is how hard it is to identify a lot of the gnomes in Wrocław as the official directory only has a small number in. Even AI can’t sort this out, ChatGPT and Google Gemini give different answers and they’re often not right. So, this gnome is going in my unknown list, anyone who knows what it is officially called can e-mail me at jw@julianwhite.uk   🙂

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Farmaceut – the Pharmacist Dwarf)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Farmaceut – the Pharmacist Dwarf)

    20250319_141823

    In the Gnomes of Wrocław collection, this is Farmaceut, the Pharmacist Dwarf, with his own pill blister pack. It’s linked to the Boehringer Ingelheim, a German pharmaceutical company with strong connections to Poland.

  • Wrocław – AleBrowar

    Wrocław – AleBrowar

    20250320_141624

    I’ve had quite a few beers from AleBrowar over the years and I’ve also been to their taproom in Gdynia. They do flights of any five beers for 40zl and that felt a suitable way of trying a number of them. The brewery was established in Lębork in 2012 and they were one of the earliest craft brewers in Poland, most focusing on hoppy beers although they brew a variety of different styles.

    20250320_142545

    The interior in the early afternoon when the bar wasn’t exactly as its busiest. The service was friendly and I liked that the server gave me a printed receipt of the five beers that I ordered to ensure no confusion on what was what on the flight.

    20250320_141913

    The beers on the flight and from left to right:

    (i) Rowing Jack from AleBrowar, an IPA with a bitter ending, with a bit of pine and general tree, quite a punchy beer.

    (ii) Tower of Cats from AleBrowar, a porter which had a dark chocolate taste, a bit of coffee and was smooth with some roastiness to it.

    (iii) Coco Monkey from AleBrowar, a hazy IPA which I thought had more stone fruit than coconut, quite sweet and hoppy.

    (iv) Baile de Rosas from AleBrowar, a red IPA which was more like grapefruit juice than anything else, although it was still pleasant.

    (v) El Fruto from AleBrowar, an 8% DIPA which had no shortage of mango flavouring, so all that juiciness must be healthy.

    This was rather a lovely little bar which is well-reviewed on-line, I imagine it can get quite busy during the evening and the prices were reasonable. I didn’t eat anything as I was heading back to the airport, but they do offer pizzas and they look suitably tempting from the reviews.

  • Gdynia – AleBrowar

    Gdynia – AleBrowar

    [I originally posted this in January 2020, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

    This bar is owned by the AleBrowar brewery who are based near Lebork, which isn’t far from the Tricity. The bar is located in the centre of Gdynia, just a short walk from the railway station. The brewery has also been going for some time, it started brewing all the way back in 2012, so relatively early for the Polish craft beer scene.

    There’s a nice feel to the bar, which is modern and contemporary in design and the beers are clearly presented behind the counter. The bar wasn’t particularly busy when I entered, although it got a little busier as the evening progressed. The prices were reasonable and there’s also an upstairs area for when it’s a bit more packed, although that wasn’t open when I visited.

    However, the choice recommended to me wasn’t a draft option, it was the Smoky Joe bottled beer which is produced by the brewery. I can’t recall having a whisky stout and although I’m not really into whisky, I don’t dislike the flavours which it has. So, this was a perfect compromise, a stout with the notes of whisky, but still at heart a stout. There was a pleasant, and not too harsh, aftertaste of whisky, but the initial taste of the beer was quite moderate and it isn’t overly rich. As a beer though, this is excellent, as it’s creative, interesting and has some depth to it.