Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Poland

Katowice Trip – Rozbark Narrow Gauge Railway

There were a few clues dotted around the place which suggested that there used to be a narrow gauge railway around Rozbark, there’s little that gets past my detective mind. Given the industrial nature of Silesia, they were early to this and had horse-drawn tracks set up in the eighteenth century. Before the standardisation of tracks, the network of narrow gauge railways became quite extensive in the region and they became very profitable in the late nineteenth century.

The start of the walk (or the bit of the walk that I did), and unfortunately, there was a lot of rubbish dotted around the area. The development of the railways in this region became more complex after the First World War, as the new Polish state built lots of new bits for their country, whilst the Germans didn’t do much with their bit. The Polish system had to ensure they stayed within their boundaries, although a small section went through Germany, although with no stops.

The former track route, running parallel or next to the road.

Walking towards Bytom. The Soviets caused massive damage here during their occupation and withdrawal in the Second World War, their soldiers ransacked property, burnt down buildings out of malice and it’s evident from the local histories that the Poles haven’t forgotten this.

Very peaceful. Unfortunately, the period in the late 1990s saw massive theft along these lines with track, track bed and other items being plundered and ransacked. The damage done so recently has plagued the economic reconstruction of the area, but the recent investment in the area has improved matters a little.

Makes for a pleasant walk.

The views of Bytom from the railway bridge, looking both ways.

The route of the railway goes on. I only walked for around a mile of the route, but I suspect a longer network of trails will appear in the future, perhaps all better signed with more interpretation boards. Some of the network remains and is the oldest section of narrow gauge railway in the world that is still in operation.

October 14, 2024
Katowice Trip – Ibis Budget Katowice

I’ve visited this hotel many times before, and have written about it many times before, and it’s always one of my favourite accommodation options in Poland. The staff are friendly, the rooms are clean, it’s peaceful, the breakfast is reliably decent, the prices are low and it’s just relaxing. This time, the hotel kindly upgraded me to the largest room they have, something I know because I had a little look on the fire escape plan, which for the low price is entirely functional for my needs.

I accept it’s not the most beautiful or luxurious room going, indeed some visitors have said they thought they were in prison, but I don’t have very decadent standards. My friend Richard is only happy if the hotel provides blueberries hand-picked by Finnish monks which are left in a bowl made from wood sourced in the Falkland Islands, placed next to a collection of towels made in the shape of swans. I’m generally happy with a door and a bed. Incidentally, this will be a handy way of seeing if Richard is reading this blog, as that might be my third loyal blog reader!

I won’t witter on here about the generalities of the hotel, as I did that on my last stay here in 2022.

Kettles don’t come as standard in Ibis Budget rooms, so I appreciated this kind gesture. They also provided sachets of honey with the tea which is something that I’m not sure I recall many other Accor hotels doing.

The obligatory breakfast photos from across my three night stay. It’s not exactly a gastronomical treat, but it is reliably filling and contains a range of pickled items. Sometimes the simplest of things, especially if they’re keenly priced, are the best. Coffee, orange juice, cold meats, something pickled, rolls and maybe even some fruit to shock and awe my body.

You can choose to not have your room cleaned and you get 100 Accor points each day for this. I went for this, and the allocation of the 200 points to my account was done same day, it’s sometimes something that I have to contact the hotel about after the trip. But Polish efficiency rarely fails them. There’s a Novotel which is literally next to the Ibis Budget and I’ve never made it there, partly because this hotel just feels the better value.

October 14, 2024
Katowice Trip – Rozbark Promenada

Rozbark (or Rossberg when it was German) grew quickly in the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century when the mining industry suddenly expanded quickly, with the population of the town growing from 4,000 in 1880 to 24,000 by 1927. It was a wealthy border town, but it came to be part of Poland after the Second World War and soon after became part of Bytom. I couldn’t quite get to the bottom of what was happening with this street, it says in some places that the economy collapsed after the Second World war, leading to properties being abandoned, whereas other sources suggest many buildings were taken out of action due to subsidence from the mining. These are some grand properties, or at least they were, with a fair chunk of the buildings down the street needing substantial repair. However, some properties are in the process of being repaired and restored in what is now effectively a suburb of Bytom. The area felt like somewhere hit by economic decline, the demise of the coal mining industry was a huge challenge to Bytom and Rozbark.

It comes to something when the wall painting is in far better condition than the building that it’s on. There were a lot of similar images in the area relating to the local football club, Polonia Bytom.

October 11, 2024
Katowice Trip – All About the Random

I’ve written about the random before, where I think better and more interesting experiences can be had by letting fate decide the destination. And I decided to go on a random tram journey and saw that I was going to end up in Bytom, which I visited a couple of years ago. However, Bytom fascinated me, and so I can’t say that I was disappointed by this.

The tram I boarded, it wasn’t entirely packed. A few people got on throughout the 40 minute journey, but no-one was ever in fear of having to stand.

I bought a day ticket using the new app and that cost me around £2.50. There’s also this new way of scanning a QR code to pay.

Bytom intrigues me as it was German until 1945 and it’s one of the few places that I’ve been to in Poland which seems to be suffering economically. Mateusz Morawiecki, the previous Prime Minister of Poland before the formidable Donald Tusk swept to victory, made an economic speech in Bytom last year and there’s hope that’s it will have some sort of economic recovery. The European Union has poured money into the area and it seems to be having some impact with the public realm looking smarter. There’s a lot of empty buildings still around though, so there seems to be a long way to go.

It was Rozbark, a suburb of Bytom, that I was primarily interested in this time around, or Rossberg when it was part of Germany. This was a prosperous town, but it was in a complicated position as some nearby areas were part of Poland some were part of Germany. After 1945, Poland took over all this land and Rozbark lost its status of being a border town. More on this in my next post as I had a walk down the entire street, it was a little strange seeing the former grand properties along the main street into Rozbark mostly being in a poor state of repair.

October 7, 2024
Katowice Trip – Pasibus

I’ve never eaten in a Pasibus outlet before, they’re a Polish burger chain which are in around 18 cities and they started in Wrocław in 2013. They haven’t started an international expansion yet, but it’s apparently on the cards.

You can either order at the bar or by using self-service kiosks. I used a kiosk so I could see the whole range of options. And kiosks means that I can concentrate on the intricacies of the ordering process without the fear if withering looks from a cashier whilst sensing a queue snaking behind me wondering why I’m faffing. And there’s a lot to be said about no forced pleasantries with a stranger who wishes they were anywhere else, although I do of course understanding the importance of hospitality at the right place and at the right time. Like in a pub…. Sometimes though I don’t need engagement, just a symphony of technology and convenience before collecting my food.

When your number is called, you go and collect the food and drinks. This is all a bit more dignified than in some McDonald’s, where it sometimes feels like being part of a throng of fellow diners standing around like vultures circling around a carcass. Some form of buzzer system or service to table might have made this a little more decadent though.

The interior is modern, clean and feels on-trend.

The food is well presented (although I accept the chicken burger looks dried out in the photo) and the main burger is a chicken one with berries on top, with some shrubbery sticking out. The chicken was tender, the exterior was crispy and it seemed an entirely decent arrangement. The chips were served as a relatively small portion, but were crispy on the exterior and fluffy on the interior. I also got a small cheeseburger, which is visible lurking at the back, and this rather melted in the mouth and was juicy.

The whole lot was just under £11, which was not a vast difference to what McDonald’s would have been, with offers being available as well. I thought everything was in order, I’d visit again if passing, although didn’t think that it was exciting enough to look up different outlets in the chain.

October 6, 2024
Katowice Trip – Ryanair (Stansted Airport to Katowice)

I have yet to grow bored of walking down airport corridors such as this, they’re something of a endless stretch of anticipation and mild anxiety. I think it’s the excitement of people watching.

More time spent on the tarmac.

I always remember now to take a photo of the aircraft registration, just so I know if I’ve flown on it before. Me and my list ticking….. It’s EI-DHG and I don’t think that I’ve been on it before. It’s a Boeing 737 which has been in the Ryanair fleet since 2005 and the age does show compared to Wizz Air aircraft, which just feel more functional in terms of the internal fit-out. As a minor example, Ryanair tray tables are wonky, it’s an endless challenge to try and keep my phone sitting on them.

Safely in Katowice with my professional imagery making it look like the aircraft is defective. I took this from the shuttle bus which takes passengers about 75 metres to the airport terminal. I forgot to mention on my first version of this post that the aircraft had a failed landing, it was all quite exciting to hear the engines roar to get it back up again. It wasn’t ideal that the announcements weren’t audible in the part of the cabin that I was in, as I was hoping for some updates from the pilots, but I thought it added a little something to the experience. I mentioned this to a few friends who apparently wouldn’t consider this to be uplifting to their experience (note the very clever pun there) though.

48 minutes it took me to get through border control now I can’t use the EU lines….. This I consider to be sub-optimal.

October 2, 2024
Gdansk Trip – Wizz Air (Gdansk to Luton Airport)

Ready to go through the Schengen gates, I was pleased that the random seating Gods had given me an aisle seat. King Sigismund II Augustus, the former Grand Duke of Lithuania, would have no doubt been pleased for me.

Passengers piling up at Gate 31, the wait here often feels like a tragicomedy of sorts, a drama of human existence.

Ready to board and listening to the usual symphony of sighs and slightly impatient shuffles from other passengers. And once again, I gazed slightly bored at the floor and wondered how the tarmac that my friend Liam helped put down at Heathrow twenty years ago is getting on. Indeed, I bet I’ve thought more about this than he has.

Another airline nearby. I had to look up which airline this was, it’s Smartwings who are a Czech airline with 37 aircraft.

And off we go. The aircraft is 9H-WNE, an Airbus A321 which was only delivered to Wizz Air in March 2024 so it’s still nice and shiny. Once again, the flight itself was without any particular note, everything was efficient, I was comfortable in my aisle seat and the cabin crew were polite although seemed a bit stressed on the flight. It was likely their third or fourth flight of the day, so I imagine that I’d be a bit stressed as well if I was doing the same job. The flight was particularly notable for me as I needed to arrive on time, but more on that in the next riveting post.

October 1, 2024
Gdansk Trip – Gdansk Lech Walesa Airport Executive Lounge

Located as far away as possible from the non-Schengen gates is the Gdansk airport lounge. My new Priority Pass card is getting a suitable workout already.

I found a table in the corner where there was that mythical beast of the modern age, a power socket so that I could remain fully charged. Electrical salvation complete, I could focus on the food and drink offering. It’s not an enormous lounge, but there was plenty of space and it all looked clean and comfortable.

A random combination of stuff that probably sums me up. Beer, a vague attempt at a healthy drink, coffee, chocolate and something with some chicken in it. The beer is the Złoto Brovarni, a hoppy beer which is locally made. There’s not a substantial range of food, more little snacks such as this, but the quality seemed high. The food area in an airport lounge can sometimes become a battleground where civilised behaviour goes to die, but it was all ordered here, although it was in a slightly compact space.

Excuse my own reflection in this photo (I tried to strike a nonchalant pose), but the beer selection here was one of the best that I’ve seen in terms of having a few to choose from and from local breweries. Some of the premium lounges in the USA have more craft cans, but there were around eight different beers here. I was surprised and delighted. Someone mentioned that I overuse that phrase, but saying that I was rapturous and bewildered or something seems a little strong here.

I thought that just one more beer would suffice me though. It’s not my favourite beer style, but it’s a clean and crisp pilsner.

The lounge would usually cost around £30 to get in as a walk-up, which might be a little steep given the limited food options. The reviews for the lounge are also a little average, perhaps some expectations were too high although some people weren’t happy at the customer service. It was a shame that the view was mostly of the car park, as lounges are often pointed at the runways, but I can’t say that I overly worried about this.

All that done, I left refreshed, my devices were refreshed and I was ready to leave the delights of Poland. Although, on the bright side, I knew that I was coming back a few days later.

October 1, 2024
Gdansk Trip – Back to the Airport

As someone who likes to pre-worry about things, I rarely cut anything fine. But I was sitting in Under Beer and thinking about my flight at 21:00 before realising that actually it was departing at 19:10. This did cause a mild panic as I would only arrive three hours before my flight and that was if I left immediately. I am a smug victor against tardiness on many occasions, but I like the cushion of time just in case things go wrong. So, I rushed off to the bus stop, bought a ticket and waited.

Marvellous, it was only a four minute wait for the bus. The travel Gods were on my side.

The bus was sub-optimal if I’m being entirely honest. The vehicle was hot because there was no air conditioning, so I thought it was like some sort of mobile sauna and I’m sure I could see a heat haze when looking to the back. Passengers fanned themselves with newspapers, leaflets and any other bits of card that they could find. The bus was also stuck in traffic and I was glad that I had a seat, as many others didn’t. The bus arrived at the airport twenty minutes late, which wasn’t anyone’s fault, but if a bus is to be delayed I always hope that it’s one with air conditioning.

I arrived just 2 hours 58 minutes before my flight. Does travel get any more close-cut than that? The thrill of being early to an airport was denied to me today, but perhaps there are only so many times that I can be an intrepid explorer of the sterile delight that is airside. I’ll miss Gdansk, I’ll be back soon I hope.

October 1, 2024
Gdansk Trip – Under Beer

There’s something about my travel style which can be a little “I’m such a creature of habit, I even have a routine for spontaneity”, but Under Beer is one of my favourite bars in Poland and I managed to go twice during my trip. This photo is from my first visit of the week, shortly after I arrived in the city. The beer is the Triple Gelato : Crunchy Berries from Funky Fluid. Smooth, juicy and as the brewer notes, liquid granola breakfast. Thank goodness for Poland was all I could think when trying this…..

I thought I’d be continental and sit outside to enjoy the sun. Well, I say enjoy the sun, I say by the bar in the shade, but it’s all relative. Anyway, I was nearly immediately confronted by an enormous wasp which I fended off, really quite bravely to be honest. They’ve put some signage up calling themselves an Irish bar and maybe that tempts people in, but their craft beer offering is the strongest element here for me. The glass is a Guinness one which I turned around for the photo. I don’t want to drone on (excuse the brilliant pun) but wasps really are striped, buzzing little sods which are the embodiment of pure, unadultered annoyance and a reminder of why I don’t like sitting outside. And they’re not that hard to fend off, it’s just the lingering sense of paranoia I have that they’ve eyeing me up for a repeat visit that I dislike.

And, my second visit was just before getting the bus back to the airport. This delicious green beer, supplied with a free little snack, is once again from my favourite brewery, Funky Fluid. It wasn’t overly sour but had lots of pear taste, it was suitably sweet and there was a little of kiwi in the taste, but even more in the colour. Is it attention seeking to be so colourful? Probably, this Gelato range is innovative and quirky, and perhaps the green rather suited the Irish Guinness glass that I tried to hide again for the photo.

The chicken burger was glorious, tender chicken and a coating which was full of flavour. This place has never left me down with its food.

I had to try another one from the range, this had a flavour of lychees with a subtle amount of pineapple and some slight sourness. I’d say it’s more green than blue, but the taste was the main thing and didn’t let me down regardless of how appetising the colour might have been.

Once again, this venue surprised and delighted me. Definitely recommended.

October 1, 2024