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  • Dublin – Paddle and Peel

    Dublin – Paddle and Peel

    We had enjoyed the drinks offering at the Galway Bay Brewery operated Against the Grain on Friday evening, so our plan for Saturday’s meal was to book a table at the Paddle and Peel, which the company also runs. There was the danger that it might be necessary to actually phone the pub or speak to them, so I decided Liam would be best at doing that.

    We arrived to a fairly empty pub, although it was Saturday afternoon and I imagine things hadn’t quite started to warm up yet. The pub had an on-trend feel to it, all modern and comfortable.

    There was an additional seating area to the rear of the pub, which was previously the Beer House before the Galway Bay Brewery took it over. It seems from looking at older photos that it has been relatively extensively modernised, although the downstairs toilets appear to have been excluded from that work.

    Always good to see a chalkboard as it’s a sign of a regularly changing beer list, but the beers were also easy to find on the pub’s web-site and there were QR codes on the table to access it on-line. There’s a lack of guest beers there though, the selection felt more what I’d expect to find in a brewery’s tap room than in a pub such as this.

    I had tried the brewery’s darker options the night before, so this time went for three lighter beers, which are from left to right the Full Sail, the Althea and the Bay Ale, all from Galway Bay Brewery. The Althea was perhaps the best here with a depth of flavour from the variety of hops used, with the Bay Ale being perhaps slightly past its best.

    The Diavola pizza, with a huge heap of green stuff dumped on top. I initially wasn’t delighted as the cheese was a bit,well, cheesy, and I would have preferred mozzarella. However, after grumbling about it briefly to Liam, I decided that I liked it and promptly got through it quickly enough.

    Anyway, the prices were reasonable, the pub was clean and I liked the food and drink. There was perhaps nothing exceptional and I would have liked to see more guest beers from other breweries on the menu, but this was still a decent pub and worth visiting. The service was always friendly and this was another one of those pubs that I thought it would be easy to linger in for a few hours, but we had more to explore in the day. Next on the list was the Black Sheep, also operated by the same brewery and just a two-minute walk away.

  • Dublin – Crowne Plaza Dublin Airport

    Dublin – Crowne Plaza Dublin Airport

    Our plan for our final night in Dublin was to stay at the Holiday Inn Express near to the airport, which I booked a few days before. I then had a slight suspicion that the hotel was shut, something which transpired to be the case when I e-mailed the hotel to confirm. However, they had a plan and it was a plan that I thought was a first rate one (indeed, a cunning plan), namely that they’d just transfer our booking to the Crowne Plaza hotel next door. This is a far better hotel in the IHG hierarchy and they pledged to match the rate. The hotels are owned by the same operator, so it likely made sense to get as many bookings as possible and just put them in the better of the two locations.

    It took us about one hour and forty minutes to get to the hotel from the city centre, not including the meal at McDonald’s en route. We decided to walk the five or so miles as the bus situation was just all too complex.

    The check-in process was all efficient and well managed, with the staff member mentioning that we’d get free breakfast, something which I had suspected wouldn’t be offered as it isn’t usually in the room rate. However, without my needing to argue, the hotel had honoured the free inclusive breakfast that was offered by Holiday Inn Express, so all was well.

    The entrance to our floor from the lifts, all very decadent.

    Modern and comfortable, the bathroom also had a separate shower and bath, which isn’t a usual set-up. The room was also spotlessly clean and I could find nothing to complain about (not that I was particularly looking for things to be grumpy about). There were bottles of sparkling and still water available, and Liam cracked open the lemonade he had been traipsing about all weekend (I have no idea why he had been saving that as if it was a fine craft beer).

    I always like a hotel that has my name on the television screen. I accept that I need to get out more though….. The hotel was also deadly quiet which is really quite lovely before a flight, with no internal or external noise. There was also air conditioning which was effective at keeping the room cool, with the windows opening as well so that it didn’t feel too sterile.

    The breakfast room in the morning, all quite grand. For those used to luxury hotels, such as my friend Richard, this is nothing special, but it’s a considerable improvement to what I usually have…..

    The breakfast options, the hot food on the right and the cold options at the back and on the left. There were plenty of hot food options, with the bacon being suitably crispy which is ideal for me. There was a chef behind the counter as well if any guest wanted an omelette or something.

    The cold meats and cheeses, always my favourite section of a breakfast set-up.

    I’ve never seen honey like this at a breakfast buffet, which is more testament to my predilection for budget hotels I think….

    There is much more choice than in the Holiday Inn Express that we had booked, so I felt that this was a very handy little upgrade.

    The breakfast I went for, with the presence of one of my favourites, white pudding. The only slight issue here is that the tables were quite cluttered, but that was mainly because I kept getting more plates and drinks.

    The photo doesn’t really show, but the muffins are also somewhat better than I’m used to. I’m easily pleased.

    The reviews for the hotel are pretty good, although not as high as I would have expected. This is part of one of my favourite reviews:

    “So in the space of 24 hours two security guards and and a cleaner were in the room without notice. We spent the rest of our stay waiting for the alarm to go off again or Basil Fawlty to come in to check the walls.”

    Some reviews complain of grumpy and indifferent staff, but I thought that the service was friendly and engaging throughout.

    Fortunately, as we didn’t fancy a forty minute walk to the airport in the morning before our flight, there was a free hotel shuttle service operated by the hotel. I had worried, as I am wont to do, that it would be full, until seeing that the hotel owns a coach rather than a minibus. The service goes nearly every half hour, from as early as three in the morning.

    And here we are on board, ready for the ten-minute shuttle trip back to Dublin Airport, marking the end of a really rather lovely weekend break.

    As a hotel stay, this was a marvellous way to end the trip and I consider that we were very fortunate to be switched from Holiday Inn Express to Crowne Plaza. Absolutely no problems, and I’d happily stay here again if the opportunity arose.

  • Dublin – JW Sweetman Pub

    Dublin – JW Sweetman Pub

    This pub by the River Liffey takes its name from John William Sweetman, a brewer who started his beer production in the city in 1756. By the 1820s, his brewery was producing nearly as much as Guinness, although it’s fair to say that the latter have now taken something of a lead. There’s a micro-brewery in the pub today, so the tradition continues in at least some form.

    We arrived at the pub without a reservation, something which was slightly aspirational as it was a Friday night and it was busy throughout Dublin. We had a wait of a few minutes, but a friendly staff member came over to help us, although she wasn’t sure if there was any seating available. She returned promptly, but she seemed a little nervous at the table that she found us as this was on the first floor and underneath the television. This didn’t sound ideal at first, but it was a perfectly decent place to sit with plenty of space and it wasn’t that near to the television which was showing some random sport.

    We passed this on the way up….. This is very Dublin.

    Our seating area had an excellent view of the upstairs bar. Most of the customers in the pub seemed to be dining and the menu did look to be quite interesting, with numerous beer pairings with the food. If it wasn’t for my wanting to visit other pubs in the city, I’d have been quite content to spend the entire evening here, it was all quite convivial.

    I had hoped to try one of the brewery’s two stouts, the Dublin Porter and the Irish Dry Stout, but they were both unavailable.

    Instead I went for the brewery’s Irish red ale and the West Coast pale ale, which were both perfectly acceptable beers that I’d order again. Both reasonably priced and I realised how much Dublin bars and pubs like to use beer mats on tables, something that seems much rarer now in English pubs.

    The reviews of the pub are nearly all positive, although I like replies such as:

    “However, after speaking to our staff in detail, some other aspects about the situation came to light & we feel that it was handled correctly on the day.”

    As I’m sure that there’s an awesome story there about some ridiculous customer behaviour….

    “Sadly I’ve always wanted to visit Ireland and my first pub experience I encountered the rude bar staff who refused to make me a black velvet. Not only refused, but chastised me for putting cider with the sacred Guinness, forcing me to make my own drink…”

    Good, I wouldn’t have made one either. Customers can make their own ridiculous cocktails…..

    “I went up to order a drink and asked the barman if they had the new Amstel Radler yet … he responded by telling me that they would never be getting any gimmicky drinks like that in stock and went on to brag about how their beers were made.”

    Well, the barman has a point….

    “It was €8 here for a bottle of gluten-free Peroni. To give some context, they’re four for €10 in supermarkets”

    It’s almost like supermarkets are cheaper than pubs…

    I have no idea though what the pub did to annoy this customer:

    “As disappointing as gout”.

    In a couple of weeks, this pub will have a different feel on a weekend evening when the table service rules are lifted. They’ll be able to get more people in at the bar which will make it easier to get into venues, but I have to say that I’m pleased that we visited when we did. Friendly service, a clean environment and a relaxed atmosphere, all really rather lovely.

  • Dublin – The Spire of Dublin

    Dublin – The Spire of Dublin

    Located near to our hotel (as in where Liam and I were staying, I haven’t bought a hotel in the Republic of Ireland) on O’Connell Street is the Spire of Dublin, constructed here between 2002 and 2003. It’s certainly a noticeable structure in the city, replacing Nelson’s Pillar which was located here between 1809 and 1966, when it was blown up by the IRA. It would have been challenging to have had such a sign of British imperial rule in the heart of Dublin, but it is a little sad that the stone structure was destroyed in the way that it was. At least there is something here now, as the space was pretty much left empty after the Irish Army removed the remains in 1966.

    Up close… There is some sort of design going on in the lower part of the structure, but it’s not particularly creative and there’s no way of going up the spire internally, so it is a little pointless (although perhaps not literally….). It has attracted numerous nicknames, including the Spire in the Mire, as well as some rather less polite names.

    The observant might be able to see the spire in this photo….. I have no idea why the city has decided not to better illuminate this iconic structure, that does seem like an omission to me. Nonetheless, I do still like it, although I’m not sure how well it fits into the Dublin skyline and how relevant it is to nearby buildings, not least the General Post Office which has such an important history.

  • Dublin – Against the Grain

    Dublin – Against the Grain

    There isn’t really a vast amount of different options for craft beer drinkers in Dublin, although the situation is rapidly improving with bars such as Brewdog opening up. One chain that came up was the Galway Bay Brewery which was established in 2009 and has a number of locations around the Republic of Ireland which are proud to sell craft beer. It was a bit of a walk to go and visit it, but I thought that it would likely be worth it.

    We arrived on a Friday evening and it wasn’t clear if we’d be able to get in given the number of people out in Dublin, but a friendly member of staff at the door offered a warm welcome and found a table for us. They complied with all of the health requirements and scanned my NHS app to show I’d been double vaccinated.

    In short, this is an exceptionally well run pub which is beautifully on-trend as far as I’m concerned. The beer menu is on chalkboards above the bar and also available by using QR codes on the table. The staff members were efficient, knowledgeable and personable, making for a comfortable visit.

    I couldn’t decide which beer to have, so I had three, as that’s the most sensible option when I’m not sure what to do. From right to left, these are the Buried at Sea from Galway Bay Brewery (who also own the pub), the Of Foam and Fury from the same brewery and the Nitro Stout from Bru Brewery who have apparently gone out of business over the last few weeks. The Of Foam and Fury was of particular note, an 8.5% DIPA with a variety of hops which had a real body to it and plenty of flavour.

    The vibe inside the pub felt inviting, with a sense of atmosphere without the feel that there might soon be a riot. The pub is well reviewed and also serves food, which we would have likely been tempted by if we hadn’t just visited the Brazen Head. I noted one of the few negative reviews which said:

    “Apparently asking for a Corona for my wife is against his morals or something. I work in a micro brewery, people like him give craft a bad name #snowflake”

    It’s handy when people put snowflake at the end of their review, as I can then immediately identify where the problem lies without needing to know anything more. We were so pleased (by this I think I mean that I was so pleased, and Liam didn’t disagree to save time) by this visit that we sought out a couple more bars in the chain, more of which in later posts. Very pleased with this visit and there were plenty of staff around for customers who wanted to order more drinks.

  • Dublin – Dublin Zoo

    Dublin – Dublin Zoo

    And another post of mostly photos….. I have been to Dublin Zoo before, but it was years ago and I’ve forgotten most of it. We pre-purchased tickets on-line so that Liam and I could explore the site and were a little disappointed to find out on arrival that all of the indoor areas were closed. That meant no snakes….

    There’s a one-way system in place around the zoo so it isn’t possible to double back at all to see any animals that might initially be hiding. Liam and I were getting pre-annoyed at this (well, I was, Liam seems to be nearly impossible to annoy) as I was thinking we might have paid an admission fee to see a pheasant, a zebra and a cow. I accept that zebras are lovely, but I wanted some variety to the proceedings.

    Fortunately, we weren’t disappointed and it took us three hours to meander around the zoo’s sort of clearly laid out one-way system. There was very little we felt that we didn’t see, just snakes and the hippos, but that’s not bad in the circumstances. The highlights were the gorilla sitting just a short distance away, the wolf that I think liked me (I wanted to keep him) and the chimps that were playing on their island. There were also lots of light decorations around the park which must have cost a fortune, but added to the spectacle somewhat and would look spectacular at night.

    So, a very enjoyable way to spend a few hours and we were pleased that we went. The zoo does lots for conservation and they’re proud of their work, which is described on numerous boards around the site. The one-way system was just slightly confusing in places, but not so much as to become annoying. The zoo seemed to have balanced quite well having sufficient visitors to make money whilst not overloading the park making it difficult to see anything.

  • Dublin – Mulligan’s

    Dublin – Mulligan’s

    I visited this pub a few years ago, but I thought that Liam would want to visit one of the most traditional pubs in Dublin this weekend. We tried to get into this pub on the Saturday evening, but they were full, so we visited on Sunday afternoon and we managed to be the first customers in for the day.

    Not quite as atmospheric as the previous evening when the pub was full, but the barman was welcoming and conversational, so it all felt inviting. The barman scanned our NHS Covid passes successfully and mentioned that this was changing soon as the rules in Ireland are being relaxed next week. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, there’s something quite convenient for customers in being welcomed at the entrance though…..

    Lots of heritage here and once frequented by James Joyce, the pub has been at this Poolbeg Street location since 1854, although it has been expanded a couple of times. There’s no television or other modern distractions, although the pub does now take credit and debit cards, so there’s some progress. As for modernisation, there’s no point moving towards the craft beer market and on-trend interiors, this is a pub which is based on Guinness, conversation and crisps. OK, perhaps not the crisps, but they do sell them and I think that’s pretty much the only food offering here.

    We went for a pint of Guinness each, which was reasonably priced, was at the appropriate temperature and tasted just as it should. The reviews on-line are all generally very positive, mostly mentioning the engaging service, the quality of the Guinness and the heritage of the surroundings. There have only ever been four 1-star ratings on TripAdvisor for this pub and two of them relate to a different venue with the same name, showing just how bloody useless that web-site is…. Anyway all really rather lovely and I can see why John F Kennedy is said to have enjoyed his visit here and I like the thought of him walking towards the bar.

  • Dublin – The Brazen Head

    Dublin – The Brazen Head

    I’ve never been to this Dublin pub before in my past visits to the city, which the owners claim is the oldest in the country. The claims that it has been a pub since 1198 are quite fanciful, but these have at least definitely been licensed premises since the mid-seventeenth century. There’s more information about the pub and its history on Wikipedia, which is probably as good an introductory resource as any other on this matter.

    The pub is very well reviewed on-line and so Liam and I decided to go there after our little visit to the Guinness Storehouse, as even if the oldest pub claim is questionable, there’s still plenty of heritage here.

    There are lots of banknotes attached to the pillars and ceiling, mostly American, and I can see why this atmosphere appeals to those from the United States (not least because it appeals to me).

    Slightly dark, cluttered and packed with atmosphere, even on a Friday afternoon. Nice, there was no shortage of traditional Irish pub feel here, suitable for locals and visitors. It was also a sizeable pub, so although it was busy internally and externally, it’s worth turning up to try and get a table. The pub doesn’t take bookings for group sizes of under four, so we did as they suggested and just turned up. We were taken to a seat in front of the bar by a friendly man at the main door (who was a staff member, I realise that might sound like a random person just pointed us towards a table), it was suitable for our needs and I liked that I could easily see the options at the bar. We didn’t have to wait outside at all, although there was a queue by the time that we were leaving.

    We had looked at the menu on-line in advance (which was very efficient of us), so we were ready with our orders. The staff in the pub were friendly and engaging throughout, it was a welcome and comfortable environment.

    The pub had some beers by Rye River Brewing and although the beer list we were given didn’t mention a stout from this brewery, I asked about it as I could see it on the bar. The staff member checked for me and they did indeed have this Eventide Irish Stout, which was new on in the pub and seems also to be something recent for the brewery itself as I was only the ninth person to add it on Untappd. It was a decent beer, a little creamier than Guinness, although that was available as well for the customers who wanted it.

    I went for the fish and chips, with that smear of peas looking slightly odd perhaps. However, looks are deceptive, they were some of the best tasting peas that I’ve had, with the chips being rather delicious, firm on the exterior and fluffy inside. The fish had a rich tasting batter and the fish itself was appropriately cooked and the tartare sauce was I think homemade. I should probably dwell on those peas though, my food knowledge isn’t good enough to know what they’ve done to make them so moreish…..

    Liam’s sausage and mash, which he said was also really rather lovely. The cuisine here is certainly above average and there were no shortage of other customers ordering food, with everything brought out promptly.

    I’m not normally a dessert person, but we felt that we deserved a little treat and so we had a Baileys cheesecake each, served with compote and ice cream. The pub only serves two different desserts and they were both tempting options, with the other being a chocolate fudge cake.

    I looked through the reviews, which are some of the best for any pub in the city, and I liked the:

    “Complained and mentioned that we were not tourists and stressed that the chef must be informed”.

    I’m not sure that the chef was informed…. I mention this as I thought it was evident during our visit that tourists and locals were treated the same way. Although another review was posted which said “The staff is rude….they hate Americans” which seems unlikely to be true….

    “After a long day on excursions, we came across this pub. The place was packed!!!!! We tried to go in and wait for a table (which you do by yourself, with no help from a host or anything…)”

    This 1/5 review was posted by an American in early March 2020, just before the crisis started to unfold. It’s interesting as there is compulsory table service in Dublin at the moment, which makes things much easier at busy pubs such as this for the reason that this reviewer alluded to. I rather hope that some form of helping customers to find a table is maintained to some degree in the future across the hospitality industry. Another review said:

    “We were shocked that after singing together some Irish and Scottish folk songs, one of our party when going to bar again was told none of our party were getting served again. It seems sing-songs are not liked or permitted in this bar”.

    Good, I like the pub even more now. Otherwise, reviews are pretty standard, but there are a few claiming that the staff were hateful that I somewhat suspect was the Irish humour that has been misinterpreted by the individual….

    The prices weren’t the cheapest, but this was an excellent visit and met our expectations. I liked the environment, the service and the food and drink, with the historical atmosphere adding positively to the whole arrangement. I’d definitely go back again, although I imagine that this pub can often get very busy, and we were suitably pleased with our choice.

  • Dublin – 16 and 41 Buses from Dublin Airport to the City Centre

    Dublin – 16 and 41 Buses from Dublin Airport to the City Centre

    Firstly, for those who are quite decadent there are the premium services offered by Dublin Express and Aircoach which take passengers from the airport to the city centre, and to other locations, quickly and efficiently. However, for the rest of us, there are local bus services which are more affordably priced. These can be reached by leaving the front of Terminal 1 and then walking through the car park, ignoring the signs for the more expensive coaches.

    The only problem is that the service only takes coins and not notes or cards. In years gone by I’ve managed to buy a ticket via a machine at the bus stop in Dublin, but that’s now turned off. Fortunately, I had enough Euro coins for Liam and I to ensure that we could get on, but we didn’t have enough for the journey back. It seems that the Dublin transport authorities know that their payment options are some of the worst in modern European cities and the whole process is going to be modernised over the next couple of years. The current set-up really isn’t ideal…..

    The bus driver was friendly and we positioned ourselves at the back of the coach into the city centre, which took around 45 minutes. It’s not the quickest option, but it is the cheapest at €3.30 each for a single journey, with the coach being clean. It didn’t get that busy and so remained comfortable.

    And that’s the bus leaving O’Connell Street after it got us into the centre quickly….. Buying tickets really does need improving, at the moment for tourists there’s only the option of cash (coins only, no notes with no change being provided) or a Leap Card, which it is expected will be phased out over the next decade.

    As an aside, we didn’t want to buy a Leap Card for the journey back, as that’s quite expensive for a single use, nor was it going to be easy to get my €10 note changed into coins to use on the bus. So we walked the 4.5 miles to the airport hotel the night before our flight…..

  • Heathrow T5 (BA Galleries South Lounge in October 2021)

    Heathrow T5 (BA Galleries South Lounge in October 2021)

    I’m now back from my weekend trip to Dublin with Liam, leaving me with quite a backlog of posts to get through. How my excited audience must be positively radiant with joy and anticipation…… Above is Heathrow Terminal T5, the home of British Airways, where we departed from last Thursday.

    The view of the terminal building, which was all a little more exciting this time as Liam spent five years here as part of the construction team who worked on this complex. That the terminal is still there is testament to his competence.

    Before the flight, we went to the south lounges at the terminal, which were moderately busy. The ordering process has changed since my last visit to the lounge in August 2021, with food still being ordered by the app, but self-service has returned for all drinks. We noticed a few customers struggling to order via the app, sometimes because they didn’t have a smartphone and sometimes it seems because they were just getting muddled up.

    I was delighted to see that British Airways are now offering more than Heineken, which is far as I’m concerned a bland and generic beer with no logical connection to the airline. This is the Jet Stream beer, a perfectly decent option which follows on from the partnership with the brewery which last year delivered Speedbird.

    Liam played soup roulette as he didn’t know what it was when he ordered it, but it turned out to be lentil which was apparently all perfectly good. I’m pleased to note that Liam also liked the Brewdog beer, which might be evident from the cans in the photo. I did have a look for the flavoured vodkas that I enjoyed last time, but they seem to have disappeared. We had a little Baileys each instead for some decadence….

    I ordered a starter of sandwiches, which are the standard British Airways options of tuna, Coronation chicken and egg,

    The main course of chicken tagine with bulgur wheat, the kind of dish that I think British Airways do very well. It is difficult to provide food options that cater to both short haul and long haul passengers which also don’t cost the airline too much.

    I ordered carrot cake and I’m not sure that this is carrot cake, but it was rather lovely anyway. I did note that the crisps have disappeared from the lounge over the last year, I hope that they make a return. I accept that there’s more to life than crisps, but nonetheless..

    This was another very acceptable visit, with the staff being friendly and polite. The environment was clean and although the food sometimes took a little while to arrive the service was always helpful. Normality seems to be returning quite quickly now to the airport in general and I suspect that the food service will become self-service soon enough.

    It was then just a short walk to the bus gates for our flight to Dublin…..