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  • Memmingen – Site of Former Synagogue

    Memmingen – Site of Former Synagogue

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    This is the site of the former synagogue in Memmingen, with the footprint partly marked out on the ground.

    This is what it looked like, the area marked out on the floor is the little section at the rear of the synagogue building (not the large building at the rear), jutting out to the right.

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    There’s a memorial here now with some information about the former synagogue. There was a Jewish population in the medieval period, but they were forced out and persecuted, with many being burned to death. The first Jew to receive citizenship in Memmingen was in 1862 and a small community developed which was around 100 people by the mid 1870s and then it reached 230 by the end of the nineteenth century. A synagogue was opened in 1909, although the Jewish population had already started to fall by them, it was 161 in 1933.

    The Jewish community was badly hit by the anti-Semitic laws introduced by the Nazis and that caused real economic pain for what was a population largely involved in textile production in the city. The Nazis destroyed the synagogue in 1938 and looted the properties of numerous Jewish residents, but more on that later in this post.

    The number of Jews had fallen to 100 by 1939, with the community being liquidated in 1942 and the residents sent to concentration camps in Germany and Poland. The post-war population of Jews was around 125 of nearly entirely those who returned from the concentrations camps, but this community nearly entirely all left with the Jewish population being a grand total of two in the late 1960s.

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    A plan of the synagogue. I mentioned that the synagogue was destroyed and that took place on Kristallnacht (the 8 to 9 October 1938) which was part of a wave of national hatred and violence towards Jews. The whole thing was made even worse by the involvement of local schoolchildren and their teachers in the destruction of the building and numerous residents had joyous photos taken in the ruins of the synagogue after its destruction. The demolition crew took a week to remove the demolition rubble after TNT was used to destroy what remained, with numerous of these workers wearing hats they had found inside the synagogue. 23 Jewish homes were also damaged in the night’s violence, there was almost no limit to the hate that was shown to the community.

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    Most of the site of the former synagogue is now built on, but at least a corner section is kept as a memorial to not just the building, but to the destruction of a community. At the time of the 1933 census the city’s Jewish population was just 1% of the 15,000 people who lived in Memmingen. The political leaders were able to ensure that so many people focused so much hate on this 1% that they were not just forced out, but were mostly murdered and treated in such a way that nearly none of them felt that their post-war home was in Germany.

  • Norwich – Norwich City Wall Damaged

    Norwich – Norwich City Wall Damaged

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    This is a little sub-optimal, someone has driven into Norwich City Wall near to where Carrow Bridge joins King Street. It’s not entirely clear to me how a car has managed to miss the road which is quite clearly marked out, but there we go.

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    I’ve seen a few online comments suggesting that the wall is somehow wrecked forever in this spot after centuries of standing there. Not that knocking it down is ideal, but I think the reality is that at this spot near the road they’ve taken these stones out and put them back so many times over the centuries that it’s unlikely to make much difference. It’s an interesting chance to see the way that the wall is constructed, which mostly seems to consist of flint, rubble and hope.

    I’ve noticed many Norwich various historic walls being taken down for professional repair which seems to involve taking most of the stones out and putting them back again in a different order. A little of the Ship of Theseus going on, or Trigger’s Broom which is perhaps a better example.

    The city council is apparently arranging repairs, so it’ll likely look as good as new again soon enough. Then hopefully it won’t be knocked down again.

  • Flirsch – Parish Fair (Video 2)

    Flirsch – Parish Fair (Video 2)

    And the second video filmed from my hotel balcony of the parish fair which was held in Richard’s honour. I was surprised that I didn’t see him being carried on the shoulders of the local residents, but he doesn’t like to be showy.

  • Flirsch – Parish Fair (Video 1)

    Flirsch – Parish Fair (Video 1)

    This was nice, the locals were so excited by Richard’s arrival in their town that they held a parish fair in his honour.

  • Flirsch – St. Bartholomew Church

    Flirsch – St. Bartholomew Church

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    As this was my view from the hotel balcony, I thought it would be sensible to actually visit this beautiful church.

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    This is certainly a rather photogenic church. The present building dates to 1820, but the parish is older and there was an earlier church on this site. Documentary evidence shows that there was a priest in Flirsch as early as 1385, so there’s a long religious tradition here.

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    The interior of church looking towards the altar.

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    And looking back along the nave.

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    The pulpit and it was slightly puzzling to see how exactly this worked in terms of the priest having to somehow climb up from one side. Until 1975 there was more stained glass here, but they’ve removed a fair amount of it to ensure that the interior looked brighter.

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    Things became a little clearer when we went to see what was on the other side of the wall. It’s a beautiful church and I’m puzzled that I didn’t take a few more photos, but I think I was distracted at how the pulpit worked….

  • Flirsch – St. Bartholomew Church (War Memorial – World War Two)

    Flirsch – St. Bartholomew Church (War Memorial – World War Two)

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    I’ve already written about the war memorial here relating to the First World War, but a second panel was needed following the deaths during the Second World War.

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    And here’s a list of all those from the local area who died during the Second World War.

    Peter Zangerl, Soldier
    Born 8 September 1916 – Died 13 May 1940 in France

    Franz Helmuth, Corporal
    Born 9 July 1920 – Died 10 April 1941 in Italy

    Max Walch, Senior Corporal
    Born 29 May 1918 – Died 13 September 1941 in Russia

    Josef Walch, Corporal
    Born 1 February 1914 – Died 16 November 1941 in Russia

    Johann Zangerl, Soldier
    Born 18 March 1921 – Died 10 December 1941 in Russia

    Anton Kathrein, Senior Corporal
    Born 16 June 1919 – Died 13 December 1941 in Russia

    Georg Zangerl, Corporal
    Born 2 September 1918 – Died 15 December 1941 in Russia

    Franz Zangerl, Corporal
    Born 20 June 1914 – Died 28 December 1941 in Russia

    Paul Mang, Soldier
    Born 10 September 1917 – Died 25 January 1942 in Russia

    Alfons Zangerl, Corporal
    Born 11 January 1913 – Died 10 February 1942 in Russia

    Karl Heim, Senior Corporal
    Born 8 March 1912 – Died 18 March 1942 in Russia

    Albert Walser, Corporal
    Born 30 March 1912 – Died 10 July 1942 in Russia

    Franz Ladner, Corporal
    Born 6 October 1908 – Died 17 December 1942 in Russia

    Josef Mang, Corporal
    Born 8 March 1915 – Died 2 January 1943 in Russia

    Lamprecht Hellrigl, Corporal
    Born 24 February 1914 – Died 21 February 1943 in Russia

    Karl Zangerl, Soldier
    Born 7 May 1924 – Died 28 August 1943 in Russia

    Adolf Ladner, Corporal
    Born 2 December 1914 – Died 21 February 1944 in Russia

    Wilhelm Ladner, Soldier
    Born 4 February 1919 – Died 26 July 1944 in France

    Kurt Kathrein, Senior Corporal
    Born 1 April 1922 – Died 8 August 1944 in Normandy

    Johann Ladner, Corporal
    Born 26 September 1911 – Died 20 September 1944 in the Netherlands

    Vincenz Kathrein, Corporal
    Born 5 January 1909 – Died 18 October 1944 in Russia

    Josef Walch, Corporal
    Born 22 September 1919 – Died 19 January 1945 in Hungary

    Wilhelm Kathrein, Corporal
    Born 24 January 1916 – Died 24 February 1945 in Hungary

    Hermann Ladner, Soldier
    Born 28 June 1925 – Died 4 March 1945 in Russia

    Missing since 1944 in Russia:
    Johann Zangerl, Soldier
    Vincenz Zangerl, Soldier
    Franz Ladner, Soldier

    It had inevitably been challenging for families of the dead during the First World War to come to terms with their loss, but this time, not only was there defeat but very many Austrians had welcomed the Anschluss with Germany in 1938.

    It’s an intriguing concept to wonder what would have happened if Winston Churchill had got his way to create a new republic including Austria, Bavaria and perhaps Hungary, a nation designed to be strong enough to stand up to Germany and Russia. Stalin didn’t like this idea, precisely for the reasons that Churchill wanted it, but I can see the appeal of uniting Bavaria and Austria. But probably not now, the moment has rather passed….

  • Flirsch – St. Bartholomew Church (War Memorial – World War One)

    Flirsch – St. Bartholomew Church (War Memorial – World War One)

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    I’m used to seeing war memorials in the UK commemorating the lives of those who died during the First World War, but it feels different looking at the Austrian equivalent. The difference is ultimately because Austria lost the war, so families of the dead had no consolation that at least their loved ones hadn’t died in vain.

    The translation of the text reads:

    “They gave everything
    they could give,
    their soul to God, their homeland
    their blood and life.
    Past are toil, hardship,
    death and battle…
    It is accomplished!”

    I’m not actually sure how cheery that messaging is, it would have been hard to explain to families in Austria what exactly had been accomplished given that the Austro-Hungarian Empire had collapsed in 1918.

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    WORLD WAR 1914–1918

    Anton Ehart, Territorial Rifleman
    Born 8 December 1891 – Died 4 September 1914 in Galicia

    Rudolf Geiger, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 8 December 1894 – Died 7 September 1914 in Galicia

    Franz Grobner, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 8 January 1895 – Died 6 September 1914 in Galicia

    Rudolf Schwenk, Senior Rifleman
    Born 8 January 1895 – Died 6 September 1914 in Galicia

    Alfons Lins, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 18 February 1897 – Died 7 June 1915 in Budapest

    Engelbert Schaltner, Imperial Engineer
    Born 3 December 1887 – Died 14 July 1915 in Galicia

    Adolf Wald, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 2 April 1891 – Died 16 July 1915 in Russia

    Josef Trawa, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 13 December 1890 – Died 28 July 1915 in Italy

    Josef Alois Tragl, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 13 June 1892 – Died 14 May 1916 in Italy

    Albert Martl, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 26 March 1895 – Died 10 June 1916 in Russia

    Siegfried Tschofen, Territorial Rifleman
    Born 6 February 1896 – Died 21 May 1917 in Italy

    Franz Ladner, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 23 December 1894 – Died 7 October 1917 in Italy

    Martin Thalhammer, Territorial Rifleman
    Born 4 September 1883 – Died 15 October 1918 in Montkuk (likely Montcuq or another wartime location)

    Josef Schmid, Territorial Rifleman
    Born 7 March 1890 – Died 26 October 1918 in South Tyrol

    Josef Zangerl, Imperial Rifleman
    Born 15 February 1892 – Died 13 October 1918 in Innsbruck

    Hermann Walch, Imperial Rifleman
    Missing since 1918 in Galicia

    Johann Zangerl, Territorial Rifleman
    Missing since 1918 in Galicia

    I’m sure that it exists, but I can’t find any Austrian list of war dead to find out more about any of these individuals. Around 1.2 to 1.5 million members of the Austrian military lost their lives in the conflict, compared to around 880,000 members of the armed forces from the UK and colonies.

    The country of Austria found itself no longer part of an empire, with Vienna now being an oversized capital with considerably less power than it had. The population had to decide whether to throw their hats in with Germany or try and go for it independently, all whilst dealing with a badly damaged economy and infrastructure.

  • Flirsch – Hotel Basur

    Flirsch – Hotel Basur

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    Richard and I were booking hotels just a day or so in advance a few weeks ago, so going to this location in Austria was a little random. Flirsch is a small, picturesque village in Tyrol which is nestled in the Stanzer Valley between Landeck and St. Anton am Arlberg. It has a lot of alpine charm and traditional wooden houses, a very peaceful little place (well, other than the church bells, but I’ll come onto those in another post).

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    I’ve never been to a hotel like this, a full on wooden Austrian guesthouse and it was something of a delight. There was a friendly welcome at reception and a cosy atmosphere to the whole arrangement. The online reviews we’d looked at in advance were quite mixed, but it transpired to be a positive experience for us.

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    Richard had booked a deluxe room with a balcony and I had booked a cupboard, as I like a thrifty option. However, I got to the room and immediately thought that they’d given us the wrong room keys. Much as I liked my room, even I thought that I’d do the decent thing and message Richard telling him he might want to come to the room he had booked.

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    I was confused as I had booked a room which didn’t have a balcony, yet here I was standing on a balcony with this view. I was surprised and very delighted when Richard replied by message that his room was correct, which meant that I’d been upgraded.

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    Given Richard had done all the driving that day (and indeed every day) I thought it was only fair that we had a meal on his balcony.

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    Healthy eh?

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    The view from my balcony in the evening. This really was so much better than I had anticipated, the room had only cost £60 including breakfast.

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    A little reading area near reception.

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    I thought it was a little confusing where to go for breakfast so I waited for Richard as he’s more responsible than I am and he went to go and ask. It’s handy having an adult around.

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    The meats selection.

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    The highlight of the breakfast for me was the tomatoes, they were absolutely lovely. I had a lot of them alongside the fresh rolls. This was a perfectly agreeable breakfast and a solid start for the day for Richard and I as we prepared to visit four countries in one day. The juices are from a machine, something Richard wasn’t keen on, but the coffees had a bit of a depth of taste.

    As a hotel, this surprised and delighted, although I thought I’d be on my best behaviour all day as Richard questioned privately why they’d given me similar to him when he had paid more. But he was very understanding as he’s better natured than I am with these matters. But the views from my room really were idyllic, I’d very much like to come back here.

  • Friedrichshafen – Der Denker by Esther Seidel

    Friedrichshafen – Der Denker by Esther Seidel

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    Light really was fading as we walked past this statue in Friedrichshafen, but I liked it and that’s enough reason for it to appear on this riveting blog.

    Located next to St. Nikolaus Church, this is a bronze figure of a man standing in thoughtful pose, dressed in a suit and turtleneck, his eyes closed, arm bent, appearing as though he’s paused time itself. Sculpted by Esther Seidel in 1997, the sculpture is known as Der Denker, or ‘the thinker’.

    The sculptor notes on her website that:

    “In my work today, I rediscover the slowness I loved so much about sculpture, but without its heaviness.”

    That’s rather noble.

  • Friedrichshafen – Buchhornbrunnen

    Friedrichshafen – Buchhornbrunnen

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    If I’m being honest, this whole sculpture looks like the sculptor had enjoyed several beers before starting work, but it’s certainly interesting and noticeable. Designed by the wonderfully eccentric sculptor Peter Lenk (1947-), it stands proudly on Adenauerplatz, located in front of the town hall. Lenk has numerous other sculptures around Lake Constance, I’m sure I’ll return to the area to visit some more of them.

    As for this one, I was greeted by a large bronze head with enormous horns and behind it rises a stylised Zeppelin, soaring above the chaos like a metallic halo. It’s all deeply symbolic no doubt, but I suspect that Lenk was happy for people to be a little confused as to what they’re looking at.

    The fountain’s name, Buchhornbrunnen, refers to Friedrichshafen’s medieval name, Buchhorn, meaning “horn of beech trees” and so the horns are a nod to the town’s past, while the Zeppelin represents its more glamorous twentieth century history.

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    Unfortunately, the light was dimming and so my photos aren’t entirely clear, but they’ll have to do. I like a bit of random modernity in my life, so was quite drawn to this arrangement.