Blog

  • Ridgeway – Day 3 (Summary)

    Ridgeway – Day 3 (Summary)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image link]

    DISTANCE WALKED: 19.8 miles

    BRAVEST PERSON: Julian (for exceptional bravery with his foot). Special runner-up award has today gone to Julian (for exceptional bravery with his hayfever). Also worthy of mention are Julian (for exceptional bravery with his other foot), Bev (for bravery with her groin), Maggie (for bravery with her foot), Steve (for bravery with his hayfever) and Susanna (for bravery with her calves)

    QUOTE OF THE DAY: “They look like Andrew’s balls” – Susanna  “A feel and a fondle and it all goes tits-up” – Dave  “It won’t reach over there, I assure you” – Steve  “My daughter made one of those out of mashed potato. No, hold on, I mean papier mache” – Bev  “I’m not having mine peeled back like that” – Gordon (first award ever for someone not actually on the walk)  “I’m now a vegetarian” – Andrew (second award for someone not actually on the walk”


    Firstly, I’ll upload another three albums of photos from day 2 relatively soon (they’ll go further down the page, so you’ll need to scroll down below this post).

    But, back to day 3. There are some days when someone stands out for their bravery. And I achieved that today. I’ve finished the day with a blister on my left foot, which I’m trying to treat with blister plasters. Hopefully I’ll be successful, but we’ll see tomorrow.

    This morning five of us started at the Star Inn in Sparsholt, with a rather lovely breakfast. We mused and debated how long it would take to rejoin the path by walking there, and after much calculation we got a taxi. I’d stress that there’s no cheating here, we will walk every foot of the Ridgeway itself, but getting onto it can be done by whatever means we feel fit.

    We didn’t initially tell Steve M and Maggie that we’d done that, as we wanted to look brave. I wasn’t too bothered by that, as I look brave anyway, but I let the others have a turn. Steve M started asking me a series of questions, and since I’m a dreadful liar, he soon found out that we had got a taxi. He didn’t tell Maggie, she remained in awe of us all day.

    The walk in the morning was pleasant enough, I tried to set a pace to eat the miles up. However, the miles didn’t seem to be eating up, much to my annoyance. We reached a lunch stop and I ate my lunch, which didn’t take too long as I didn’t have one. Of significant interest to some of us, primarily Dave, Bev and myself, we watched some pigeons being set off on their first homing expedition. I videoed it, I’ll post it later. Steve M was quite blasé about it, he wasn’t going to demean himself by watching a load of pigeons.

    We carried on walking and I carried on getting grumpier. I then realised that I was way under-resourced in terms of salt, and after much subtle hinting via Bev, some crisps were found for me. Thank you Steve and Maggie. That little bit of salt powered me through to the end, and I reached speeds of nearly 1.5mph at times.

    We were all noticeably quieter today than on the first two days, as several of us felt that it was quite tough going. The ground is hard and a bit stony, and it’s difficult walking on that for long periods. Today was also hilly, but the scenery was beautiful. Was Bev quiet I hear you all cry. Well, yes, she was to a degree, which goes to show just how the group mood has shifted.

    However, Dave and Steve M boosted our spirits with their energy and good health. Well, they didn’t boost mine, they bloody irritated me. I’d feel better about my hobbling about if they hobbled about too. So tomorrow I will sabotage their walk efforts so that they struggle. Because I’m like that…. Bev said she’d help. Because she’s like that too…

    My feet were giving me some problems, but I’ve fixed the right foot, and I’ll work on the left foot as well to try and resolve that problem. Brave? Yes. To a ridiculous degree, and that was widely commented on.

    Anyway, we nearly ran to the end point of the walk. By nearly ran, I mean hobbled. Some of the group were staying at the Bull in Streatley. Frankly, the less said about that place the better, so I won’t go there, either in this blog or in person. Instead I was at the Miller of Mansfield, which offered a friendly welcome. Unfortunately it didn’t have the bath that I was looking forwards to that was confirmed on the Expedia booking, but such is life, everything else was fine.

    We then had a group meal at the Indian restaurant, having had to divert our plans from the Bull, and that was certainly large portions. We’d had rather a heavy night last night, so this one was much more refined and laid-back, and it was noted again by several people how brave I was being about my foot.

    So, we’ve done three days out of six, and I’ve remembered how difficult this walking thing is. I’m certainly not doing the LDWA 100, and I’m going off doing a 50 to be honest. I’m wondering whether I should get into short distance walking. Maggie and Steve M have decided to walk much less than the rest of us, and I’m quite envious of their decision now.

    So, what will happen on day four? I hope there are more quotes of the day than on day three, and there’s less pain. But, hurry back here to read the details of another traumatic day with Hike Norfolk.

  • Ridgeway – Day 2 (Star Inn)

    Ridgeway – Day 2 (Star Inn)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

    We were staying in the Star Inn in Sparsholt and so we decided to also dine there. It’s a well reviewed pub and the prices were slightly towards the higher end of the scale, but I felt that the quality met that price point. Our refined evening did rather go on longer than I had anticipated, what with all the shots, but it was a memorable evening….

    20180612_233320

    Bev laughing away to herself.

    20180612_192928

    The pre-meal crisps and beer.

    20180612_201734

    Free bread and butter.

    20180612_195656

    The menu.

    20180612_202655

    My starter of terrine, which had a real depth of taste and flavour. It was also beautifully presented.

    20180612_205907

    My main course of hot dog, which was rich and meaty, with the meal again being well presented.

    20180612_223126

    The group.

    20180612_184704

    The beer selection.

    20180612_214641

    Toasting the group’s efforts. Perhaps a little early as we had only been walking for two days at this point….

  • Ickworth House – Below Stairs

    Ickworth House – Below Stairs

    20250413_133559

    One of the volunteer guides at Ickworth House told me that this favourite area of the property was the below stairs tunnels and rooms. These comments transpired to be very understandable having seen the whole building, there’s an element of rawness down here.

    20250413_133658

    Located on the lower floor under the Rotunda, the opportunity to explore this hidden world is largely thanks to a significant initiative by the National Trust: the “Ickworth Lives” project. Launched in 2011, this project meticulously researched and restored the basement quarters to reflect their appearance and function during the 1930s.

    20250413_133609

    The wine and craft beer storage area. I accept it was mostly the former.

    20250413_133633

    Keeping track of who was staying in the rooms.

    20250413_134059

    A lovely view of a brick wall, although at least there was some sun shining in. Anyway, I think it’s time for a table:

    Role Key Responsibilities Mentioned/Implied at Ickworth References
    Butler Supervise male staff, manage wine cellar, oversee dining service, potentially valet duties Yes (Mr. Dunning)
    Housekeeper Supervise female staff, manage linens & stores, oversee house cleaning Yes (Mrs. Seddons)
    Cook/Head Cook Plan menus, order food, manage kitchen staff, prepare meals Yes
    Valet Gentleman’s personal servant: dressing, clothes care, shaving, boot polishing Implied/General
    Lady’s Maid Lady’s personal servant: dressing, hair, cosmetics, clothes care Implied/General
    Footman Assist butler, serve meals, answer door, run errands, polish silver Yes (Laurence)
    Housemaid Clean rooms, make beds, clean fires, dust, general household duties Yes (Rose, Lily, Florence)
    Parlour Maid Serve meals (often breakfast/lunch), clean reception rooms, answer door Yes (Mary Brunning)
    Kitchen Maid Assist cook with food preparation, kitchen cleaning Yes (Ruth Mizen, Maggie)
    Scullery Maid Wash dishes/pots/pans, heavy cleaning in kitchen/scullery, prepare vegetables, light fires Yes (Arianna, Harriet Flack)
    Hall Boy General errands, heavy lifting (coal/wood), cleaning boots, assisting footmen/butler Yes (John Mayhew)

    That’s quite a selection of staff who were working in the warren of rooms downstairs. The job wasn’t the worst going, but it would require an early rise and shifts tended to be up to 16 hours a day, with minimal days off. Lady Theodora Hervey, the 4th Marchioness, had at least improved matters somewhat in her 1910 investment in the facilities which reduced the need to walk so far to serve food and it also introduced electric lighting and hot water boilers.

    20250413_134104

    It seems that rather than the servants being housed in the attic of the building,some of their sleeping quarters were located in the maze of downstairs rooms.

    20250413_134155

    I’ve seen far worse in terms of accommodation.

    20250413_134129

    I can only imagine this was one of the rooms for a butler or valet, it’s quite decadent. It also has half a set of encyclopaedias.

    20250413_134230

    Some of the industrial equipment in the cellars. Liam was more excited about all this engineering than I was. How someone can get excited by a piling rig is beyond me, but I don’t judge.

    20250413_134400

    The finishing kitchen and this was installed after the dining room debacle meant the food was getting cold by the time it arrived.

    20250413_134414

    I did note that the kitchen was bigger than my entire flat….

    20250413_134639

    More engineering.

    20250413_134647

    Liam understood this.

    20250413_134707

    The pipes continue.

    20250413_134722

    One of the toilets that the servants could use.

    20250413_134754

    And, for the sake of completeness, the other one.

    There’s been an increase in interest in this whole sort of thing since Downton Abbey, although I’ve personally always been more engaged with You Rang, M’Lord?, although I must admit to having never watched Downton Abbey…. It’s definitely an intriguing area of the house and they’ve restored this really to quite a high standard of authenticity which has humanised the rooms.

  • Ickworth House – William Hogarth’s ‘The Hervey Conversation Piece’

    Ickworth House – William Hogarth’s ‘The Hervey Conversation Piece’

    20250413_131837

    As I’m not observant, I hadn’t realised at the time that this painting at Ickworth House was by William Hogarth (1697-1764) who must rank as one of the most influential British artists. The work was commissioned by John, Lord Hervey, and also has the title of ‘The Holland House Group’ which seems to me to be a more grown-up sounding name than ‘the Hervey Conversation Piece’. This secondary title points towards the significant presence of Henry and Stephen Fox, whose family later held the title Baron Holland and resided at Holland House. I had to look it up, but the ‘conversation piece’ style of artwork was a thing in the eighteenth century, a way of the middle classes to show off their status.

    It was painted between 1738 and 1740, with this being time for another table…

    Sitter Key Title/Role Depicted Action/Pose Relationship to Hervey/Group
    John Hervey, 2nd Baron Hervey (1696–1743) Vice-Chamberlain to Royal Household Standing centrally, wearing gold key, gesturing at plan Commissioner; Central figure; Political leader/Courtier
    Henry Fox, 1st Baron Holland (1705–1774) Surveyor-General of the King’s Works Standing, holding up architectural plan Political ally (Whig); Colleague (related interests in architecture/works)
    Stephen Fox, 1st Earl of Ilchester (1704–1776) Later Joint Secretary to the Treasury Seated at table with wine/fruit, dog at feet; stick upsets Desaguliers’ chair Brother of Henry Fox; Political ally (Whig); Social connection
    Charles Spencer, 3rd Duke of Marlborough (1706–1758) Gentleman of the King’s Bedchamber (from 1738) Seated left of Hervey, leaning in, gesturing Colleague in Royal Household; Political ally (Whig); Social connection
    Thomas Winnington (1696–1746) Whig Politician Standing beside Marlborough, foot on garden roller Political ally (Whig); Social connection
    Rev. John Theophilus Desaguliers (1683–1744) Natural Philosopher, Clergyman, Engineer, Freemason Peering through telescope, teetering on upset chair near river Intellectual figure; Represents scientific/Enlightenment interests within Hervey’s circle

    I love a political artwork (I don’t get out much) as they’re statements of intent and political alliances rather than anything else. Hervey had reached the giddy heights of Vice-Chamberlain to Royal Household which was a rather more powerful role than it is today. I note that because I would bet that the majority of people don’t know that Samantha Dixon currently holds the role, although I sometimes fear that the majority of people don’t know who the Home Secretary is.

    There is some background information here, which is that John Hervey and Stephen Fox were in a relationship, although initially John has pursued Henry Fox until he rejected the advances and he went for his older brother instead. For extra excitement, Winnington had an affair, likely more than one, and managed to get himself involved in a duel.

    The artwork has never left the property and was owned by the Hervey family until 1956 when it was accepted by HM Treasury in lieu of death duties and then given to the National Trust. There’s also a copy of the artwork at Redlynch Park in Wiltshire, which was the country seat of the Fox family.

  • Ickworth House – Painting of Constantine Phipps Greeting Augustus Hervey

    Ickworth House – Painting of Constantine Phipps Greeting Augustus Hervey

    20250413_131925

    This painting at Ickworth House shows the meeting of the Hon. Mrs Constantine Phipps being led to greet her brother, Captain the Hon Augustus Hervey, later 3rd Earl of Bristol. The artwork was commissioned in 1750 by the matriarch Mary, Lady Hervey, but it was a rather more complex affair than she might have first intended. The six individuals posed, or whatever it is people do when sitting for a painting, in Paris in October 1750 and much of the whole thing was a show of her social status. Anyway, there’s more about Mary at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Hervey and more about Augustus at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Augustus_Hervey,_3rd_Earl_of_Bristol.

    The artist was Hubert-François Bourguignon (1699-1773), known as Gravelot, who was something of an active participant in London’s burgeoning art scene, frequenting Slaughter’s Coffee House and teaching at the St. Martin’s Lane Academy, an important precursor to the Royal Academy, alongside figures like William Hogarth and Francis Hayman. His pupils included the young Thomas Gainsborough, who reportedly even painted backgrounds for Gravelot in the mid-1740s. In the Ickworth painting, commissioned five years after his return to Paris, Gravelot appears to have been the primary architect and instigator of the whole arrangement. He is credited with painting the bodies of the figures and, significantly, the heads of Mary, Lady Hervey, and the Fitzgerald couple.

    But then we move onto Jean-Étienne Liotard (1702–1789), a portrait painter born in Geneva to French Huguenot parents. For the Ickworth commission, Liotard was specifically engaged to paint the heads of the Honourable Mrs Constantine Phipps and her husband. But then it seems that Lady Hervey became a bit impatient with the speed of everything and she commissioned Francis Hayman (1708-1776) to finish everything off, although his exact contribution is unclear so there are some figures that have likely been painted by three different people.

    Which gives us (as everyone loves a handy table):

    Figure Name & Title (at time of painting / later) Dates Relationship to Commissioner (Mary, Lady Hervey) Depicted Attire Artist of Head
    Woman being led Hon. Lepell Phipps (née Hervey) / later Lady Mulgrave 1723–1780 Daughter Pink and white dress Liotard
    Man being greeted Captain the Hon. Augustus Hervey / later 3rd Earl of Bristol 1724–1779 Son Blue naval uniform, gold braid Gravelot
    Woman seated (right) Mary ‘Molly’ Lepel, Lady Hervey c. 1700–1768 Commissioner (Self) Pink dress, black shawl Gravelot
    Man leading woman Constantine Phipps / later 1st Baron Mulgrave 1722–1775 Son-in-law Blue attire Liotard
    Second woman standing Lady Mary Fitzgerald (née Hervey) 1726–1815 Daughter Green dress Gravelot
    Second man standing George Fitzgerald, MP (dates N/A) Son-in-law Murrey-brown coat, blue waistcoat Gravelot

    What a faff. This painting was one of the relatively few at Ickworth House that just stayed at the property, perhaps because no-one else would want it, rather than being one that the National Trust had to work out how to reacquire later on. The whole thing feels like the eighteenth century equivalent of a modern-day photo of a family on a first class flight somewhere cultural, showing happy families, a slight air of superiority and a hint of cultural aspirations. Well, something rather more than a hint. The painting is all very country house aristocracy, although to be fair, that’s exactly what it is and I’m rather pleased (as much as anyone can be in the circumstances) that the painting has continued to be kept at the house.

  • Ridgeway – Day 2 (Blowing Stone)

    Ridgeway – Day 2 (Blowing Stone)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

    20180612_163426

    Bev mentioned that we should perhaps go and look at the Blowing Stone, and as that was a viable option given the location of our hotel, we felt that we should. I was actually rather impressed by it, but Susanna was very vocal in her disappointment in the size of the stone.

    20180612_163117

    It’s a sarsen stone which can make impressive sounds if blown in the right manner through one of the stone’s many holes. There was an information board by it and without that it would just be a stone in someone’s garden, but the historical significance was interesting.

    20180612_163052

    20180612_163101

  • Ridgeway – Day 2 (Uffington Castle)

    Ridgeway – Day 2 (Uffington Castle)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but I’ve reposted it to fix the broken image links]

    Towards the end of the day’s walk we reached the site of Uffington Castle, which is an old iron age fort. Also there is the Uffington White Horse, the largest chalk figure in the UK which is over 3,000 years old and Dragon Hill.

    It took us a while to drudge up the hill to look at the white horse, and it was closed off to the extent that we couldn’t walk on it. This is a temporary measure, as Bev has done numerous things to the white horse in the past. Regardless of that, it all looked rather impressive in the valley and it was an impressive site.

    Bev found an old English penny which she kindly gave to me, to join my little collection of old English pennies. Susanna also showed us hundreds of standing stones in the landscape. They weren’t though standing stones, Steve soon put her right. Bev mocked her for the rest of the day for this inaccurate piece of history.

    Below are the photos of this little expedition, where we also met a friendly American from Rhode Island. And had a rather nice little rest on the side of the hill in the rather lovely breeze.

    20180612_152255

    20180612_154251

    20180612_145650

    20180612_150426

    20180612_151010

    20180612_145648

    20180612_151344

    20180612_151217

  • Ridgeway – Day 2 (Wayland’s Smithy)

    Ridgeway – Day 2 (Wayland’s Smithy)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

    Wayland’s Smithy is a long barrow from the Neolithic period and dates to around 3,500 BC. It has huge historic significance and there have been numerous bodies discovered here. More recently visitors have been placing coins and other items into the stones, although the site owners are disapproving of this and remove them.

    I might try and take Dylan and Leon here, they can go hunting for coins and items that have been placed in the stones, ready to pay for their Maccadonalds  🙂

    That should be the end of the story about this interesting site, which is located just off the Ridgeway. It’s not the spelling mistake on the official sign, which was irritating, but something far worse. It was a revelation from Bev about what she has done at this site. I was shocked, appalled and stunned. It’s not for me to tell people, as indeed I was told I wasn’t meant to tell the rest of the group, but I can confirm that Andrew would be shell-shocked.

    Anyway, below are some photos of the barrow, with the site having a rather mystical and peaceful feel to it.

    20180612_142535

    20180612_142357

    20180612_141935

    20180612_142631

    20180612_142347

    20180612_142620

    20180612_142240 (1)

    20180612_142300

    20180612_142617

    20180612_142144

  • Norwich – Flixbus

    Norwich – Flixbus

    In news that comes as no great surprise, Flixbus have now arrived in Norwich. The above photo is from the US as I don’t have one from Norwich yet, but they’ll be going to destinations such as London and also, the pearl of the west country, Swindon, so start packing your tiaras for that decadent treat. I’ve travelled with them many times and it’s all a bit erratic as they franchise out their operations so the quality of service is highly variable. I try to stick to trains as coaches are just more stressful and less comfortable, but their prices are generally very low so I’m sure I’ll end up on one at some stage but I’m it’s always something of a local dip of travelling going with them.

  • Ickworth House – Encyclopædia Britannica Eleventh Edition

    Ickworth House – Encyclopædia Britannica Eleventh Edition

    20250413_134138

    I am that dull that I not only have a favourite encyclopaedia, I have a favourite edition….. So, I’m always surprised and delighted to see them in the wild so to speak. Although the National Trust has split this collection at Ickworth House between two rooms which I managed not to be too traumatised about, although I had a strong urge for Liam to put them all together in one place. I don’t have a physical copy of the book at the moment, but there is a free version on-line and here’s just one random section from the complete set of books that Project Gutenburg has transcribed. I can’t remember if I’ve mentioned, but I had some e-mail conversations with Michael Hart, the founder of Project Gutenberg, in what must have been around 1995. Unfortunately, my e-mail archive doesn’t go back that far to read what riveting things I asked him about….. Anyway, I appear to have digressed once again.