Just as a random post, but this is the chocolate selection in a random convenience store in Yerevan. This was similar to many other shops and it reminds me of just how bland our stores such as Tesco Express area.
And I particularly note that as I was impressed at the range of the beer selection. Visible are the Dargett bottles, they’re a local craft brewery and more of them in a later post.
The previous evening we had tried to eat at this restaurant, but they were full although mentioned that they were quieter at lunchtimes. So, that’s what we did.
There were a few tables taken, but it was clear that it really was much quieter at lunchtimes. The restaurant is located in a basement, but that gave it a bit more atmosphere and it felt like a traditional Armenian location. Having noted that, it is part of a small chain, but it’s very well reviewed online and clearly popular.
I went for the minced beef tolma (or dolma as they’re also called) and they didn’t look that appealing if I’m being entirely honest. However, they tasted much better and were actually just a little addictive. Soft on the outside, they were juicy and rich in flavour, with the sauce adding a little extra taste. Don’t judge a book by its cover and all that. The beer is Ararat from the Gyumri Brewery which was malty, bready and really quite generic.
Yes, it’s chicken and chips, but it’s also one of the restaurant’s special dishes and this worked beautifully. The chicken was tender and moist, the chips were crisp on the exterior and there was some seasoning to the outside of the chicken. It might not be a complex dish, but it came together together nicely.
I hadn’t had a breakfast, so I had also ordered this vegetarian soup which had a gentle flavour, but nothing outstanding. However, after putting a fair amount of chicken in from my previous dish, I created a really rather lovely chicken soup. I accept that’s not necessarily evidence of huge creativity, but it worked for me.
I really liked this restaurant, although it felt a little over-staffed and so service was perhaps over-attentive, but that’s not a complaint. The environment was clean, the surroundings were comfortable and it felt a genuine experience even though I’m aware it’s not just an individually owned restaurant. I’d certainly come back here again.
This was part of the Louvre special exhibition at the museum and this is something of a significant piece of stone which dates to the fifth to seventh centuries. It was found in the Cemetery of Armant in Egypt and is part of the collections of the Louvre.
The symbolism is important as it’s an early piece of Christian art and it’s in really rather a decent condition. The fish represents the sea monster that gobbled up Jonah, whilst the cross is a reference to the Resurrection.
And, apparently, “the style of the carving, with its heavy outlines and textured patterns on the dolphin’s body, is characteristic of the expressive and often folk-like art of the Coptic Christian community during the Byzantine period.”
It’s a key. But, this was particularly interesting to me as it’s the key to the fortress in Erzurum and we had visited this castle when we were in Turkey the previous week. And that’s something that has been a real revelation to me on this trip, it’s opened up a whole new history to me of a region that I didn’t know much about.
The key dates to 1829 and so was likely pinched by the Russians when they invaded the city in that year, unless this is perhaps the new key that had to be made because the old one went missing. When the Russians took the castle, it was the first time in over 500 years that Christian soldiers had occupied it, although the Treaty of Adrianople a few months later gave the city back to the Ottoman Empire.
This is one of the most remarkable shoes in the world and it even has its own Wikipedia page. This shoe is 5,500 years old and even the lace has remained intact. It has the claim to fame that it is the oldest surviving leather footwear in the world and I must admit that it was quite exciting to see this.
The shoe was discovered in the 2008 archaeological dig at the Areni-1 cave, with the grass inside being from the period. They don’t know whether the grass was there to help cushion the shoe and make it more comfortable, or whether grass was placed in the shoe when it wasn’t work to preserve the shape.
Our first choice restaurant for the evening was fully booked, although we were able to dine there the next day, so we instead went to this on-trend looking outfit, Black Angus.
This is the dining area on the first floor and they had a few seats on the ground floor, where the open kitchen was located. The venue felt modern, welcoming and the team member helpfully gave me the wi-fi password so I didn’t have to panic.
Far too jovial….
Firstly, the beer is the Paulaner wheat beer, this is one of my favourite things that this German brewery offers, banana notes, fluffy and light. The chips were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the interior, but onto the Mexican burger. This had some heat to it with the jalapenos adding positively to the arrangement, but the burger surprised and delighted, meaty, rich in flavour, suitably seasoned, this was all really very good.
Jonathan went for a salad, but I didn’t say anything.
I also ordered myself some onion rings, which were crispy with a spicy coating, another positive addition.
Overall, I very much liked this venue as it was clean, the service was friendly, the team members were attentive and we were rarely left waiting for long. The prices were slightly towards the higher end of the scale, but I thought that it was worth it for the quality.
After some excitement of getting there, we were dropped off at our bus for the day, which would be taking us from the outskirts of Tbilisi to Yerevan.
We really had experienced a variety of climates during our trip, the snow bound mountains of Turkey, the sunny Black Sea coast, the moderate Tbilisi weather and then back to snow.
We reached the border and went through the Georgian border control. No more photos here for obvious reasons, but there was about a five minute wait to get out of Georgia. We then boarded our bus again which went about eighty metres before we got out again to enter Armenia.
And safely into Armenia! The staff members here were particularly friendly, this felt like a real welcome to the country.
The country to live….
Much of the countryside was quite barren, but we had some extensive views during the journey.
A brief stop at Ijevan.
Hilly….
We were told that there would be a fifteen minute wait at these services, but that transpired to be over forty minutes. We met an English speaker, who is studying medicine in Tbilisi, and she was held at the Georgian border for over three hours. She had been able to switch to our bus otherwise she was stuck, as her original bus wasn’t going to wait for that long. She had been planning a day trip to Yerevan, but I suspect that turned into an overnight one as otherwise she’d have to go back as soon as she got there.
And safely into Yerevan.
After a little sit down in McDonald’s being served by a robot (an actual robot, that’s not me being rude about a staff member) we went to find where our bus to Armenia would be leaving from. More precisely, it was a marshrutka that would take us all the way to Yerevan. It’s fair to say that Jonathan is experienced with these, he’s travelled a lot around the region and is more positive about them than I am. I like trains as they’re easier to find.
A driver came over to us and gave our names before he ushered us into his car. This wasn’t the sort of transportation that I was expecting and I particularly liked the cracked windscreen that added to the whole excitement.
With Jonathan in the front, and me safely tucked in behind next to a local, we set off. It wasn’t clear to me if this car was taking us to Yerevan, which felt a sub-optimal arrangement, or just shuttling us to the marshrutka.
I’m pleased to say, that after some exotic and vibrant driving, fifteen minutes later we met up with our marshrutka and I was ready for my first visit to Armenia.
Not that I needed much of an excuse to pop into a McDonald’s, but on this occasion, we needed somewhere to wait from where our coach was going to pick us up.
The interior was spacious, clean, modern and welcoming.
The ordering screen.
I don’t really rate McDonald’s breakfasts much (other than in Poland where they’re lovely), but in Tbilisi, they served the full menu all day as well, so here’s a delicious hamburger. I also ordered a coffee and chicken burger and they were equally, well, exactly the same as they are in the UK, so that’s all good.
NB, apologies if there’s a gap below, the embed isn’t working very well, but there should be a video that plays.
I’ve seen these robots before, but never in a fast food restaurant like this. I doubt they’d be used in the UK, they’d either be kicked over, the food stolen or the entire robot pinched. But, here, it worked marvellously and I swiftly took my tray off before recording this video in case it stormed off with my food and drink.
Our plan for the day was to get a metro service to the coach station where we were going to cross the border into Armenia and then spend a few days in Yerevan. I love metro networks and this is Rustaveli station which opened in 1966.
There was a 120 metre long wooden escalator down to the platform and these are 60 metres underground, one of the deepest metro stations in Europe.
Down we go.
This reminded me of the Russian metro network where they had a staff member sitting down at the bottom looking up at the escalators.
It’s quite a Russian style metro station, but it’s spacious and functional.
The platform.
Here comes the train, which was moderately busy.
Safely into Isani metro station, which was opened in 1971.
A very pleasant journey and it was positive to see another metro system, I’m always overly excited by this. It was a cheap journey and you buy a card to use the network, which can be paid for either by card or cash.
This is the original dome and exterior of the Isani metro station, some 1970s modernist architecture. We then just a ten minute walk to get to where our bus was going to go from.
