Category: UK

  • Bungay Pub Day – Two Julians

    Bungay Pub Day – Two Julians

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    After what we considered the great success of our days out in Dereham and North Walsham, Julian and I decided that it was Bungay that we should investigate for our next study tour. This is an area I haven’t much explored, only having visited the Green Dragon, but Julian has many more experiences of the hospitality venues in the town.

    Excluding the golf club, there are five pubs in the town and we were able to visit all of them. They were the:

    Fleece Inn

    Castle Inn

    Green Dragon

    Three Tuns

    The Chequers Inn

    And I’m delighted to say that we enjoyed them all.

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    The excitement of lorrygate when the local denizens had their peaceful early afternoon rest impacted by a lorry struggling to get past another lorry. I say excitement, but it amused us for a few seconds. I accept that I in particular am easily pleased.

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    I took photos of numerous former pubs in the town, this is the Ship which was taken over by Lacon’s in 1923. I’ll get another post written at some stage about the pubs that have been lost in Bungay, there seem to be some intriguing tales from what I’ve been reading about some of them.

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    We had chance to look around the local church, but more about that in a separate post. This series of posts is far more about the beer without me getting distracted once again by church history.

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    Another grand building lost to the hospitality trade, this was the King’s Head Hotel.

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    And evidence of another one lost…..

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    There’s a story here, but I’m not quite sure what it is.

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    I was suitably humoured by this, it’s very true.

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    Unfortunately it wasn’t possible to enter the castle, but I took this photo over the fence so that’ll have to do.

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    It’s clearly important to explain the principles of the 24 hour clock to local potential bus passengers.

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    Our bus back turned up late, for reasons unknown, but just after First Bus had sent me a message on Twitter saying they were looking for it. We arrived safely back in Norwich in one piece and only a little after schedule. Fortunately we weren’t back too late as Julian and I needed to pop out to visit some Norwich pubs in the evening, as our study tours are never ending. I was especially fond of the Fleece Inn for its food and ambience, but all of the pubs had inviting atmospheres and staff who offered us a friendly welcome, it was certainly a rewarding day in that regard.

    The next visit will be to Aylsham and we’re both looking forwards to it as we don’t get out much.

  • Bungay Pub Day – The Chequers Inn

    Bungay Pub Day – The Chequers Inn

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    The fifth and final pub to visit on our day trip to Bungay was The Chequers Inn, located on Bridge Street, which has been trading in some form since the seventeenth century although the bulk of the current building is from the eighteenth century. We had visited earlier on in the day to find it closed, but that was because CAMRA’s Whatpub was a little more aspirational about the venue’s opening times than the pub itself. As an aside and sort of a fun fact that I’ve learned from CAMRA, apparently “some pubs displayed the sign to indicate that they would change money or acted as bankers in some way”.

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    The bar area feels modern and contemporary, with the welcome from the staff member being immediate and friendly. As can be seen from the blackboards, they have regular live music including from Lee Vasey. Julian said that he remembered the pub when it was something of a real ale destination pub, but CAMRA notes that it has been under new ownership since early 2022. Julian’s reminiscences seem accurate though, as the pub was listed in the 2001 Good Beer Guide when it had six real ales and an annual beer festival going on.

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    There were three real ales on, including two from the local Bull of the Woods brewery, the Rock Steady and the Satan’s Session. I couldn’t find the beer on Untappd, so I’ve gone with it likely being the Satanic Majesty which has the same ABV. It was well kept and at the appropriate temperature, a basic and inoffensive session bitter. I was pleased to see the beers from the local brewery, as I think I’m right in recollecting that it was only this pub that had any on.

    This was a fine way to end our pub excursion, some different ales to try and a comfortable atmosphere. Some recent reviews say that food is offered occasionally, but there was nothing evident when we visited so it might just be for special occasions. It has something of a traditional feel to it, definitely worth popping in for anyone visiting Bungay.

  • Bungay Pub Day – Three Tuns

    Bungay Pub Day – Three Tuns

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    The fourth pub of our day out was the Three Tuns, a substantial building which was formerly a hotel and coaching inn. CAMRA note that there has been a hospitality venue here since 1540, although a new building was required after the 1688 fire.

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    As an aside, I’d suggest that this was a sub-optimal night for Bungay.

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    I’m not sure what I expected, but I really rather liked the grand room when we entered the pub. The service was immediate and helpful, with two real ales available. I went for the Trawlerboys from Green Jack which wasn’t quite at its best, but not in such a state I needed to return it. I was pleased that the pub accepted cards, as indeed did all of the town’s pubs, which made matters easier since neither of us had any cash.

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    For those who like to watch television, there is a little arrangement of sofas in front of one.

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    Not an ideal photo due to the lighting, but this is the main bar area. This was one of those pubs where everyone seemed to know each other, or at least other than these two strangers from Norwich, but there was nothing unwelcoming at any time.

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    The pool room.

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    The other side of the building, which is apparently one of the most haunted in the town. For a long time there were medieval banquets held in the cellar, but the building was put up for sale for £375,000 in 2008 by Admiral Taverns who ended the leases of the banquet company and a fancy dress company. It was purchased in 2009 by Paul Trevitt, but he stepped back in 2020 and defined as pub as so dangerous that he needed a riot helmet. I mean, I have been in pubs like that in the past, but it’s not ideal is it?

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    The external signage, which has been here for twenty years, harks back to a different time in the venue’s history. If there are now no lunches, morning coffees or medieval banquets it seems just a little out of place.

    The on-line reviews for the pub are mixed, but with the pub owner saying that he felt the venue was dangerous, that certainly provides me with a different proposition in terms of writing positively about it. To be fair, he’s now apparently appointed a pub manager to bring the venue under control, but I can see the challenging edge that they have here. There’s no food offered but so much potential given the space that there is, although they have now launched karaoke on the weekends which seems brave to say the least.

    Unfortunately, I imagine the interior would need an expensive restoration now and as it’s a listed building, that would be quite the project. And anyway, the ghosts might not like it. Although if there is some modernisation, the owner had better not make the mistake of a previous owner who was fined £8,000 in 2008 for removing bits of masonry from the cellar. He said that he hadn’t realised that the building was listed. The court weren’t impressed.

    I enjoyed this pub though, it’s got a long heritage, there’s a strong community feel and the prices are towards the lower end of the scale. I’m surprised that the owner hasn’t made more use of the sizeable building that he has available, but maybe there’s a long-term plan or perhaps it’s just nicely ticking over. It’s quite a way from the coaching inn that it once was, but it’s still open which is more than can be said for plenty of other pubs in the town.

  • Bungay Pub Day – Green Dragon

    Bungay Pub Day – Green Dragon

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    This was the third pub that Julian and I visited on our day trip to Bungay and I think it’s the only one in the town that I’ve been in before. I can’t claim to have been a regular, but it’s near to where we’ve been canoeing before and I also came here whilst I was waiting for a bus to Southwold. If it had a major bus interchange hub like North Walsham I might not have needed to find a pub to wait at, but I won’t digress here.

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    Formally the Horse & Groom pub, these are the bar and smoke room entrances.

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    The beer options, the one hidden by the light is the Gold and I don’t think that they had any guest beers on when we visited. As the board suggests, they’ve been trading under this pub name since 1991 when the pub brewery was established by brothers Robert and William Pickard. Their brewing equipment is at the rear of the pub and they also do tours if contacted in advance. Given the number of former brewpubs that used to exist, this feels like a particularly veritable venue where beer is brewed on-site and it’s the only one now remaining in the town.

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    What I assume is one of the pub’s earlier signs.

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    I went for the Strong Mild.

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    I felt that a food and beer pairing was essential here. The beer was smooth and rich, a very agreeable mild and a beer style that I’d like to see more of. I liked these crisps incidentally, I’ve never had them before.

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    Julian in his alcove and note that he’s always ready to take a photograph with minimal notice.

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    The food menu, served between Thursdays and Saturdays, although they seem to also have food trucks on some Sundays. There look like some suitably interesting options on there, but we had already eaten in the Fleece and so didn’t partake on this occasion.

    This is the only pub in Bungay which is listed in the Good Beer Guide and it has also won numerous CAMRA awards. Well-reviewed on-line, it’s a traditional pub which doesn’t feel unnecessarily staid. The service was polite and helpful, there was a relaxed and inviting feel with plenty of customers in the large outdoor drinking area. All rather lovely.

  • Bungay Pub Day – Castle Inn (formerly known as the White Lion)

    Bungay Pub Day – Castle Inn (formerly known as the White Lion)

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    This was the second Bungay venue of the day for us and just writing for me, it seems a little bit of a shame that relatively recently the White Lion was renamed to be the Castle Inn, as it has been a hospitality venue with the White Lion name since the sixteenth century. Although under blue paint, that old name and the Lacon’s Brewery is still prominent to this day and it looked to me at first sight a little muddled especially when there is Three Cooks branding on the signage as well. I imagine that the listed building status is likely the biggest limitation here rather than anything else.

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    The real ales are on the reverse of the central bar, with the only two other customers in the venue sitting right in front of them hence this zoomed in photo. They had Deuchars and Gone Fishing from Green Jack Brewing, with the prices being reasonable. The service was attentive and friendly, with the atmosphere feeling inviting.

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    I went for the Gone Fishing from Green Jack Brewery and it tasted as expected and was at the appropriate temperature. It was a peaceful atmosphere in which to enjoy a drink, so we lingered here for a little while. We were thanked when leaving and I liked the pleasant environment that they’ve created here.

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    Those just wanting a drink are absolutely welcome, but the interior has been set up primarily as a restaurant. There are also four rooms available for those who want to stay overnight and I particularly like how much history about their venue is on their web-site. I noted that they mention the 1750s advertising of rooms mentioned the “latest designs in wallpaper”.

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    The desserts menu and the other part of the restaurant. I suppose I yearn for the feel of how this must have been in the past, a vibrant pub with bustling trade, but I can’t unfortunately find any old interior photos. Historically this appears to have been a substantial venue with numerous bedrooms, extensive stabling, a bowling green and a large yard.

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    The venue doesn’t have a menu I can find on-line, but there is one posted up at the front of the pub. They’re running with two menus, one primarily Asian meals and one primarily traditional British food. This seems to be provided by the Three Cooks who have moved from their previous restaurant located a little further down the road. I’m sure that the menus are delicious and everything is beautifully prepared, but with no prior knowledge I’m always a little nervous when there are two completely different menus as I’d rather they just put forward their best food. I’m also, if I’m being honest, not entirely confident about the “kitchen hours may vary” and the use of the word “approximately” as it sounds as though they’re often quiet and so stop serving food early. I’ve always been one for clarity, I just like knowing when a venue opens and closes, along with when the food will be available.

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    Lovely as the welcome was, I didn’t fully get to grips with this venue, it was a warm and sunny day in late May with a spring menu being advertised alongside a winter themed A-Board. The on-line reviews are broadly positive but still a little mixed for the food, but the accommodation element is well reviewed and it seems well cared for. Looking at the photos on the venue’s web-site, one of the four rooms has the beds in the arches of the old bread proving oven which seems a marvellous piece of history. I can imagine there’s plenty of character in the rooms and it’d be a quaint and very British place to say.

    Regardless of my slight confusion over branding, the service was friendly, there were a couple of real ales and the venue was warm and comfortable. They’ve ensured that drinkers are welcome, even though it’s not their main emphasis, and it’ll be interesting to see how the restaurant element develops. As an aside, the venue is also closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, so we were fortunate that this wasn’t one of our Wednesday sojourns.

  • Bungay Pub Day – Fleece Inn

    Bungay Pub Day – Fleece Inn

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    First in our visit to every pub in Bungay was the Fleece Inn which has been a hospitality venue since the fifteenth century. CAMRA note that it has been known as the Fleece since 1711, having previously been known as the Cross Keys and that seems an acceptable amount of times to change a pub name. Until recently it was part of the Adnams estate, but it now appears to be free trade.

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    There’s been a sensitive modernisation recently which has given the interior a clean look without impacting negatively on the heritage of the building. Julian has several stories about this venue from years gone by, but they wouldn’t be at all suitable for this blog.

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    There were three real ales available, Amarillo from Tindall Brewery, Nightingale from Green Jack and Greene King IPA. This seemed to be a reasonable choice from three different breweries and I hadn’t had the Amarillo before. Service was immediate and friendly, with some gentle upselling going on to offer us food. As this seemed a positively good idea given we needed sustenance after our bus journey, we decided to look at the menus.

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    The nibbles and starters from the seasonal all-day menu.

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    The mains and also the lunch menu. Given how prices have been increasing recently, these seemed entirely reasonable, especially as they’ve made a substantial effort to buy from local suppliers and they’ve listed those on their web-site. The venue was moderately busy, sufficiently full to suggest to us that the food was likely to not disappoint.

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    The Amarillo from Tindall Brewery was well kept and refreshing.

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    The Nightingale beer from Green Jack was equally well kept and complemented the Ploughman’s rather nicely. Homemade bread, blue cheese, Cheddar cheese, celery, grapes, chutney, small pickled onions, salad and ham. For the price point charged, this was most certainly most agreeable. The cheeses had a depth of flavour, the ham was salted and tasty, the bread was warm and soft, this felt like an appropriate meal for such an historic venue. Julian went for the home glazed ham, bubble & squeak and a poached egg and seemed equally as content with his meal.

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    We didn’t partake, but there was also a dessert menu.

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    We sat in the snug area which is to the front of the pub and a fair way below street level so we were looking up at people walking by. This structural history has meant disabled access is possible only through the rear of the building, with an old door visible at the rear of the photo in the snug area.

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    There’s another seating area to the front of the building. The on-line reviews are broadly positive, although their spell of responding to reviews in a quite direct manner has seemingly passed, which is a shame from a reader’s point of view. There were no negatives that I noticed, this was a welcoming and warm venue with helpful staff and a comfortable environment. Pricing was reasonable, the menu was intriguing and extensive with the quality of the food being high. It set quite a high bar for the four remaining pubs in the town that we were then going on to visit.

  • Streets of Norwich – Hampshire Hog Yard

    Streets of Norwich – Hampshire Hog Yard

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project….

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    Located along St. Swithin’s Alley is the remnants of Hampshire Hog Yard, which was accessed from behind the Hampshire Hog pub, from which it took its name.

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    This is one of the six remaining thatched properties in Norwich and its current name, rather sensibly, is the Thatched Cottage. It was built as a residential property in the seventeenth century and became a pub in the early nineteenth century. The licensee in the 1880s was John ‘Licker’ Pratt who fought Jem Mace in a two-hour long bare knuckles fight and I can’t imagine that was pretty. Pratt won the contest though and I suspect he wasn’t concerned about dealing with any problems that might arise in his pub after that. It remained as a pub until 1912 when the authorities were trying to reduce the number of licensed premises. The street line used to go up to the frontage of the house, so there wasn’t historically a garden area as there is today and George Plunkett has a photo of this from 1938.

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    The Norwich Preservation Trust acquired the building in 1971 and renovated it over the next few years. George Plunkett offers some additional information about the pub, noting:

    “A yard at the rear bears the name of the Hampshire Hog, the sign of an adjacent tavern, being possibly the last house in England where the game of logats was played. The logats, resembling policemen’s truncheons, were to be tossed as near as possible to a wheel-shaped jack which had previously been thrown towards the opposite end of the ground; there was some similarity to the game of bowls. A set of logats is preserved in the Strangers Hall Museum.”

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    The sign, which isn’t immediately obvious to those walking by, to the former entrance to Hampshire Hog Yard. The yard was cleared just before the Second World War as part of the project to remove slum dwellings in the city, with no access now possible. In 1906, it was advertised that all the housing in the yard, and some besides, was for sale at public auction and, at that time, the properties here were unlikely to have been in a particularly good state of repair.

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    I’m not sure how old that sign is (someone has produced a guide to London street signs to help age them, but I’m not sure that any such facility exists in Norwich) but it must be at least eighty years old and is likely a fair chunk older than that.

    As for why the Hampshire Hog got its name, I’m unsure. A pub with the same name in London has its origins as a nickname for members of the Royal Hampshire Regiment, rather than anything to do with pigs. Perhaps there’s some similar link here.

  • Norwich – Food on Magdalen Street (Week 1 – The Street Cafe)

    Norwich – Food on Magdalen Street (Week 1 – The Street Cafe)

    And the establishment of yet another series of posts, this time a new project of James and I which is to visit every food venue along Magdalen Street. It just has to be open at lunchtime, not be too decadent and we’ll also stretch into Anglia Square as well before it’s knocked down (or falls down of its own accord). There are quite a variety of options, it’ll be an interesting few weeks working down them.

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    We started here, the Street Cafe and Coffee Bar which takes up two shop units towards the far end of Magdalen Street away from the city centre.

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    There’s a little external dining area for those who want to sit and watch the traffic on Magdalen Street. I can’t imagine why, but I imagine it’s handy for the smokers. Anyway, after entry we were greeted and seated promptly, with the service always being friendly, personable and pro-active.

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    The drinks menu.

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    The breakfast menu.

    The pricing for food isn’t cheap by any means. As a comparison, a mocha and full English breakfast in Harrods is £25.45 and it’s £19.05 here. It’s the highest pricing of any cafe that I can find in Norwich, but I have to note that it’s also one of the best reviewed so customers are clearly content. I couldn’t find any indication on the menu of where food items were sourced from, although I understand from reviews that items are locally sourced where possible.

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    There was a comfortable and inviting feel to the cafe so it seemed relaxed. It was also much bigger than I expected with another seating area in what was previously the next-door shop.

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    The cafe was nearly empty when we visited on a Wednesday lunchtime. Perhaps they get busy earlier on, but they shut at 14:00 so there’s no afternoon trade.

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    I don’t want to dwell on this for long, but the pricing of the soft drinks was a little high, although the alcoholic drinks were more moderate and I went for a Harrow Sparrow cyder from Aspall. This was fine, served at the appropriate temperature and in a clean glass. There’s also a waffle menu which has some sweet options including Snickers, Mars, Maltesers, Oreos, Biscoff, Cadbury and Kinder chocolate. These were reasonably priced at £7.95 and were served with sauces, creams and ice cream. The savoury waffles are a fair amount more expensive and although tempting, they came in pricier than at the Waffle House restaurant in Norwich.

    I am maybe focusing a little too much here on price, and I’m conscious of the exceptional price increases that the hospitality industry is facing. However, it put much of the menu out of my lunch budget, hence why I went for a cheaper option. The pricing is still relevant to a large degree, the second best rated cafe I could find is the Kitchen in Sheringham, which is significantly cheaper. They’re also more expensive here than the Pigs restaurant, reported to be the best the breakfast in Norfolk, not that I’ve been there to comment on that. Apologies for the mentioning of price, as I’m sure the cafe wants to pay their staff fairly and do things properly, but it did feel something that stood out somewhat compared to other venues.

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    Given the price points, I settled for a more basic bacon roll. The quantity of bacon was generous and I was pleased that I didn’t have to remove too much fat, one of my personal idiosyncrasies which is no comment on the cafe. It was perfectly adequate, although I’d say unexceptional in terms of the depth of flavour. James wasn’t over enamoured with the quality of the sausage in his bap, although the rolls were fresh and the bacon was cooked well and at the appropriate temperature.

    A slight limitation for me is that I’ve worked through so many bacon sandwiches at cafes and restaurants that I’m used to more ingredients being used such as the addition of a spicy sauce, the use of a chutney or something else that added to the depth of the flavour. The roll also wasn’t doing much for the taste or texture or the whole arrangement, but then again it’s a cafe and not some decadent upmarket restaurant. It’s also evident that this is how they’ve served it for a long time and it’s what people want, so I don’t wish to sound critical. But, it’s fair to say that I wasn’t taken away by the taste or flavours, it was just a bacon roll.

    However, there’s clearly nothing wrong here as they’ve been trading since 1996 and as mentioned earlier, the reviews are very high and they’re one of the best rated cafes in the area. There’s no doubt a slight premium that very many customers are willing to pay for the quality of the service, the cleanliness of the venue and the reliability of the food. I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, but I could be tempted to try their sweet waffles if I’m need of something of a chocolate boost and I’ll post back here if I go and try one of those. And perhaps one day I might even throw financial caution to the wind and try one of their cooked breakfasts to see just how good it is.

  • Norwich City of Ale – 2023 Trails

    Norwich City of Ale – 2023 Trails

    I’ll be back to the Gdansk trip shortly, but as a quick diversion….

    How exciting, it’s nearly time for the Norwich City of Ale trails, which I haven’t really had an opportunity to do in previous years. I’ve collared some people to assisting me with them this year, with further information at https://www.cityofale.org.uk/. The theme this year is Norwich Strangers, migrants from the Flanders area who were welcomed into Norwich, primarily in the late sixteenth century. The event takes place between 25 May and 25 June 2023.

    The trails are:

    Dutch Trail

    Brickmakers
    Brewery Tap
    Stanley
    Artichoke
    Marlborough Arms
    Cottage
    Leopard

    Flemish Trail

    Crown Point
    Redwell  
    Rose
    Murderers
    Lamb Inn
    Garnet
    Wildman

    Canary Trail

    Sir Tobys
    Playhouse Bar
    St Andrews Brewhouse
    Steam Packet
    Last Pub Standing
    Coach and Horses (Thorpe Road)
    Fat Cat & Canary

    Strangers Trail

    Crown Costessey
    Fat Cat
    The Ten Bells
    The Plough
    Strangers Tavern
    Belgian Monk

    Drapers Trail

    Whalebone
    Roseberry
    Angel Gardens
    Duke of Wellington
    White Lion
    Rumsey Wells
    The Vine

    Worsted Trail

    Plasterers
    Malt and Mardle
    Kings Head
    Merchants House
    Ribs of Beef
    Wig and Pen

    Walloon Trail

    Louis Marchesi
    Maids Head
    Golden Star
    Red Lion
    Lollard’s Pit
    Jubilee

    Weavers Trail

    Walnut Tree Shades
    Coach & Horses (Bethel Street)
    Georgian Townhouse
    Earlham
    Black Horse
    Garden House

    Dyers Trail

    Freemasons Arms
    Kings Arms
    Trafford Arms
    Unthank Arms
    The Warwick
    Beehive
    Cellar House

  • Gdansk Group Trip – Day 1 (The Ryanair Flight to Gdansk)

    Gdansk Group Trip – Day 1 (The Ryanair Flight to Gdansk)

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    All this telling me to relax is very stressful. I just want to know when and where the aircraft is going from, I like being in a state of heightened tension before a flight and certainly not relaxing. Things have moved about since I was last at Stansted a few years ago and my favourite seating area has gone, but I found a quiet seating area a level below the main terminal which was rather peaceful and delightful. Or as much as these things can be anyway.

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    Safely at gate 49 and I have to comment positively that Ryanair are incredibly efficient when things go right. The signage is clear, it’s obvious where to stand, the process is managed well and they do this better than British Airways which often is either organised chaos or not organised at all.

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    The big long queue to board, but the wait was for only five minutes or so.

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    At least with no airbridge I can take a photo of the aircraft. The aircraft is SP-RNA which was brought into use in 2008 and has a few weeks ago been transferred to Buzz, which are a division of Ryanair. What I find fascinating is that this aircraft will be used for seven flights today, from Stansted to Gdansk to Prague to Gdansk to Oslo to Gdansk to Dublin and back to Gdansk. They get their money’s worth out of these Boeing 737s.

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    The flight was nearly full and I cannot fault Ryanair for the service today. The cabin crew were pro-active and polite, the pilots made clear announcements, the aircraft was clean and everything was organised and on time. This flight cost £25 and I have to note that I’ve been surprised and delighted by Ryanair. I was asleep for most of the flight, but I received exactly what I paid for which was simply a glorified bus journey and they don’t pretend that it’s anything more than that. I’ve never actually had any problems with Ryanair after over a decade travelling with them, but when things go wrong they do have a poor reputation of fixing the issues.

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    Safely at Gdansk Airport where three shuttle buses swept passengers away to the main terminal.

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    Where we had to wait of course because we’re not in Schengen and the border guard, who was very amenable, spent some time adding up the number of days that I’ve been in the European Union. But it’s good to be back in Poland and the weather is warm and frankly too hot. But I don’t complain.