Category: Norfolk

  • 200 Years Ago : Dangers of Surry Street and St. Stephen’s

    200 Years Ago : Dangers of Surry Street and St. Stephen’s

    Reported in the Norfolk Chronicle 200 years ago today, there was the story of how a robbery had taken place near the Crown Inn on St. Stephen’s (long gone, it closed in the 1830s). Of more interest perhaps is how the newspaper felt obliged to warn the local denizens of just how dangerous this part of the city had become. They wrote warning of murder:

    “In noticing this circumstance, we feel it incumbent on us to animadvert [isn’t this a wonderful word? It means to speak out against] upon the danger to which passengers and property are exposed in St. Stephen’s and Surry Street, from those two principal thoroughfares being at this time of the year, in point of fact, neither watched not lighted. The extreme darkness of Saturday was not relieved by the glimmering of a single lamp, and as for the watchman, not only robbery, but murder, might have been committed with impunity, for any thing that the nocturnal guardian of the district in question, was at hand to do.”

    And for anyone who believes Norwich was safer in the past, the newspaper stories from 200 years ago suggest a city where crime was common and residents were in fear. Surry Street is actually what is now called All Saints Green, whereas Surrey Street connects All Saints Green to St. Stephen’s.

    This map is from the 1850s, but All Saints Green (Surry Street) is the larger area below the church, whereas St. Stephen’s is the road shooting off to the left.

  • Two Julians – Norwich Index

    Two Julians – Norwich Index

    It’s our intention to visit every pub in Norfolk and Suffolk, such as the commitment that Julian S and I have to this project. Our back catalogue is available at http://www.norfolksuffolk.org.uk/ for your delight and perusal. Or something like that anyway….


    Here’s a list of the Norwich pubs we’ve visited:

    Adam and Eve [January 2025]

    Alexandra Tavern [August 2023]

    Belle Vue [August 2023]

    Berstrete Gates [February 2025]

    Chambers Cocktail Company [March 2025]

    Champion [February 2025]

    Cinema City Bar [March 2025]

    Coach and Horses – Thorpe Road [March 2025]

    Coach and Horses – Union Street [February 2025]

    Coachmakers Arms [February 2025]

    Compleat Angler [March 2025]

    Fat Cat [August 2023]

    Fat Cat and Canary [March 2025]

    Freemason’s Arms [September 2023]

    Glass House [March 2025]

    Hop Rocket [February 2025]

    Jubilee [March 2025]

    King William IV [March 2025]

    King’s Arms [September 2023]

    Nelson – Closed [August 2023]

    Robin Hood [January 2025]

    Rose [January 2025]

    Rumsey Wells [March 2025]

    St. Andrew’s Brewhouse [March 2025]

    Strangers Tavern [March 2025]

    West End Retreat [August 2023]

    York [February 2025]

  • Norwich – Belle Vue (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Belle Vue (Two Julians)

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    Next on our list of pubs to visit was the Belle Vue and I’ve already written something about how the licence of this venue came about in my post about the Alexandra Tavern. It received its licence in 1878 and has gone through a number of owners, including S&P, Bullards, Watney Mann, the Norwich Brewery and now Enterprise Inns have it so it might well be doomed. Certainly the last few years have been troubled, it has faced a series of temporary closures and it’s on the back foot given that the nearby Good Beer Guide listed Alexandra Tavern is free of tie. This venue reopened in 2022 and the management posted on-line that “we are now open, new owners and new team. Food led, wood fired pizza oven, craft ales, wines and cocktails”.

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    There’s plenty going on here, I admire the effort being put in by the publicans. As a first impression, this gives a proper community feel to the whole arrangement.

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    There were four real ales, the Dizzy Blonde from Robinsons (now removed of females on its pump clips after a series of complaints), Black Wolf from Wolf Brewery, Golden Jackal from Wolf Brewery and Ghost Ship from Adnams. For what I’m assuming is a tied selection, this seemed quite reasonable and a perfectly acceptable range. They accept cards and cash, with the whole transaction being efficient and prompt.

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    I went for the Black Wolf from Wolf Brewery which wasn’t at its best. Served slightly too warm for my preference, which is likely just through sitting in the line, it wasn’t crisp or refreshing. I wasn’t entirely confident that this beer had been pulled through recently, but either which way, it wasn’t quite the quality I hoped for, but it remained drinkable.

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    I can’t say that I find the interior particularly cosy, there are a range of decors which are in places quite dark and it doesn’t feel light and inviting. It was clean throughout though, the publicans have made an effort to ensure that surfaces were dry and not sticky, with no empty glasses left on tables.

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    A view from the other end of the pub, this feels like it needs something of a makeover. There was some promotional material around the venue which was out of date which was hardly important in the scale of things, but felt a little sub-optimal. However, it would be wrong not to mention that the service was timely, friendly and conversational. We were greeted on entry and thanked on departure, so there was no absence of welcome. I felt comfortable during the visit and it felt like a pub that someone new to the area would find welcoming if they wanted to meet new people.

    I noted the owner’s comments last year about bringing in craft ales (although I’m not sure what that phrase means here, I assume craft beer), but I didn’t see any during our visit and I can’t see any evidence of that judging from entries on Untappd over the last year. I’m struggling to add much more here as the pub’s web-site has disappeared and they stopped updated social media, so other than the board outside the pub it’s not entirely evident what they’re got going on. There is food served, but the hours are minimal for what they claimed last year is a food led pub, so I’m not easily able to write about the venue’s USP. I suspect from the signage that the karaoke, quiz night and free pool evenings are key drivers for the venue, so a visit on one of those evenings might be recommended for those who want to see the pub at its best.

    However, I accept that a lack of web-site and the like might be fine as I will add my normal caveat that it is entirely possible that the venue is performing very well and they don’t need any more trade, which is a perfectly acceptable position. It remains very positive that the pub is still open serving the local community and it deserves plenty of praise for remaining open during these challenging times.

  • Norwich – Alexandra Tavern (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Alexandra Tavern (Two Julians)

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    Next in line on our little tour was the Alexandra Tavern which has been a pub since the 1860s, taking its name from Alexandra of Denmark, the wife of King Edward VII. It’s a well reviewed pub on-line and it’s also listed in the Good Beer Guide.

    As a pub history side note, the Norfolk Chronicle reported on the Brewster Sessions held in August 1877 in which the Alexandra was mentioned, but I think it’s an interesting snapshot of licensing at the time.

    “Mr Carlos Cooper, barrister, applied on behalf of Messrs. Steward and Patteson for the transfer of the licence of the Cock and Pye public house, St. Simon and Jude, to other premises situated in St. Philip, Heigham. Mr. Cooper said that of course it was unnecessary for him to state that he was not applying for a new licence, but was now asking for the removal of one. The late Mr. Winter’s representatives had about 16 acres of land, very well adapted for building purposes; this was now in course of being sold and built upon, and there had been about 40 or 50 houses built there up to the present, and when the whole of the land was built upon there would be about 300 or 400 dwellings, thus forming, as it were, an entirely new locality. This locality would require a public house, which would be of great convenience to the inhabitants, as there they could fetch their dinner or supper beer without going to an inconvenient distance. There was no public house at all within an easy distance of the new locality, and it would be absolutely necessary to have one.

    One of the conditions of the sale of the property was that only two public houses should be erected on the estate, and at present there were none. Mr. Cooper said he was not asking the justices to increase the public houses; in this city the present number were disproportionate to its inhabitants, and he believed Norwich was an exception to an other place, for if they compared the number in this city with other towns they would find a much greater proportion in Norwich. He was now only asking the Bench to transfer a licence from one house to another in the course of erection. The learned gentleman then put in the plans of the house, which he said was well situated for the inhabitants of the future,

    Mr, Mayd, barrister, opposed the application. With respect to the situation, there was a public house called the Alexandra Tavern within 110 yards of the site of the public house proposed to be erected. There was also another public house called the Stafford Arms, which would be 200 yards from the proposed house. The people would have as well the right angle house on the Dereham Road and St. Giles’s Road. The proposed house stood by itself in the fields, there was no dwelling near it, and the inhabitants were perfectly satisfied with the accommodation they received at the Stafford Arms and the Alexandra Tavern, and he submitted their duty was to deal with the present time, and whatever sort of locality there might be in the future it was not absolutely necessary to have another public house. The Mayor said the decision of the Bench would be given later on.”

    As a quick pub quiz competition, I’ll let individuals guess which pub it was that being proposed (answer at the end of this post) because as a spoiler, the licence transfer was granted.

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    There were four real ales to choose from which were the Scoundrel from Moon Gazer, Little Sharpie from Humpty Dumpty, Ale X Best Bitter from Mr Winters and Lighthouse from Adnams. The venue had been free of tie since 1996 and that is evident from this selection of beers which have a local edge to them and which don’t involve Greene King in any shape or form.

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    Stealing Julian’s line, it wasn’t far off each table having their own hanging basket.

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    I went for the Ale X which was well-kept, at the appropriate temperature and is the pub’s house brew. I ensured that it wasn’t polluted by all the foliage and Julian S was approving of his Scoundrel beer from Moon Gazer.

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    Some of the local wildlife.

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    There’s one central bar which serves all parts of the pub, with cheese rolls available at the end of the counter. One side is the lounge bar and the other the public bar, not divided in the way that they once would have been, but they still feel distinct in terms of their character. Julian S and I feel more comfortable in what would have been the poor bit, we’re not really lounge people.

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    The interior of the pub which feels cosy and comfortable. I found this visit really rather positive, there was a decent choice of beers, the service was friendly and the surroundings were clean. It had several customers on a Wednesday afternoon and the atmosphere felt inviting.

    And, in answer to my earlier question, the pub licence being proposed was for the Belle Vue, which ties in nicely here as that was the next pub that we were visiting.

  • Norwich – Gonzo’s Tea Room

    Norwich – Gonzo’s Tea Room

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    Firstly, I’d better stress that this isn’t a report from the Two Julians (so it won’t be appearing on www.norfolksuffolk.org.uk), not least as Julian S was sensible enough not to stay out on this expedition of mine. Indeed, given that his propensity to stay out is much more decadent than mine, I should have taken that as a hint. But, nonetheless, I’ve wanted to visit Gonzo’s for some time and I haven’t found anyone tolerant enough to take me. Well, not until now anyway. Excuse the lack of quality of the first photo, but it was for Untappd.

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    Firstly, I don’t usually edit photos, but it doesn’t feel appropriate to leave these people in so I’ve blurred their faces. But it gives an indication of the excitement of the dance floor in the early hours of the morning. It’s also a relatively small venue at this point of the night, so I was pleased that it wasn’t too busy.

    For privacy reasons, I won’t say in public which pub landlord decided they would take me to Gonzo’s, although there’s a hint here. I’m not one for dancing (to be more precise, it doesn’t happen ever and never will), or indeed for noise at all if I’m being honest, but this was a tolerable arrangement as I could have a little sit down and it was getting late. There was an effort with craft beers here, I stuck to the Bloody ‘Ell from Beavertown as I’ve always found that a reliable little number.

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    The night coming to an end…. Back to the venue itself, there is a terrace upstairs but that had closed by the time we got there. There was no admission charge and the service was friendly and efficient. The beers weren’t unreasonably priced and it felt safe and well managed, with sufficient serving and security staff. The toilets aren’t the largest, but that all adds to the adventure of the arrangement.

    The venue does serve food during the day and will of course be very different, so when Julian S and I do get around to visiting this might be a very different sort of report. But, for now, my two loyal readers can get an idea of what the venue is like in the early hours of the morning. I’m not sure these late nights are good for me now I’ve reached 25, but a one off experience is never a bad idea.

  • Norwich – West End Retreat (Two Julians)

    Norwich – West End Retreat (Two Julians)

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    Next in our mini tour of Norwich pubs was the West End Retreat, first opened in the 1840s although the gardens are a little less extensive than they once were as the bowling green was sold off for housing at the turn of this century. An advert in the Norwich Mercury on 25 May 1859 notes:

    “To Builders, Speculators and Others. To be sold, by private contract, the well known premises called the West End Retreat. This freehold estate comprises house, containing bar and bar parlour, and other rooms, pleasure grounds, ninepin ground, stables and coachhouse; also baronial hall capable of holding 3,000 persons, conveniently fitted up with galleries, bars, etc; and also another large room with bars, and other conveniences therein, and contains, with the site of the buildings, about 2.25 acres. The above is admirably adapted not only for a public house and pleasure gardens, but also for building purposes.”

    The extent of the bowling green is visible from this map from the 1870s.

    On 4 August 1860, the Norfolk News mentioned the case of a 16 year old who had smashed the windows of the home belonging to his parents and they said they didn’t know what to do with him. He kept going out and getting drunk, with the Chief Constable of the police commenting that “the Orchard Gardens, the West End Retreat and such like places were perfect sinks of iniquity”. Those pubs are the favourites of Julian S, I can imagine he’d be there until late in the evening… The Mayor told the Chief Constable to arrange visits so that the magistrates could take action, but the pub continued trading despite its reputation.

    I won’t spent too long on the history of this pub, but there were no shortage of press reports of fights, disturbances and issues at the pub throughout the 1860s to 1890s. It would be fair to say that the pub seemed to be attracting all manner of issues, it wasn’t a pub at ease with itself, although I make no comment on what happened in the twentieth century but matters seemed to calm down judging by newspaper reports. The structure was though damaged during air raids during the Second World War and so there was some rebuilding necessary. I will though quote from CAMRA in what appears to from around 2010.

    “Built in the early twentieth century it retains the floor-plan of two bars and an off-sales. The little altered interior from c.1960 is rare and due to the fact that the pub was run by Jan & Jack Wakefield for 37 years until they retired in 2005. On the right the public bar with a ‘1’ on the door has a 1960s flat roof extension which almost doubles its size and retains an old counter which has a new top over a Formica one, 1960s bar back with an old till drawer and old Bullards Ales window. Opposite the front door is the separate off-sales with a ‘3’ on the door and a red Formica top counter – intact off-sales like this are very rare. The former lounge on the left with a ‘2’ on the door is now a games room which retains its 1960s counter with a red Formica top, classic 1960s bar back but the fireplace has been lost. To the right is a now disused bowling green which is due to be sold as building plots.”

    It’s evident that someone has recently removed all of this, as CAMRA now note:

    “A pub interior of limited or no national historic interest.”

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    The remainder of the pub’s gardens, with the building on the right being placed on what was the bowling green.

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    This was my only interior photo as it was quite busy and I didn’t feel entirely comfortable going around taking too many photos of the arrangements. The service was polite and immediate, although there were no real ales available. The customers mostly seemed to be regulars and I can’t say the welcome was unfriendly but I suspect our presence was noted. Incidentally, the document above relates to the Bricklayers Arms on Bull Close which closed in 1995.

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    There weren’t many seats available, so we went out into the garden area for our drinks, something which is most unlike us.

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    It’s not Stella, as I would never be seen drinking that, it’s instead Camden Hells and it tasted as expected and was reasonably priced.

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    We had some company in the garden.

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    It appears that new owners have taken over the pub relatively recently, so it’s not clear whether the fish and chips will be making a return. Indeed, I can’t find out much from social media or the venue’s web-site exactly what is going on.

    All told, this is another pub survivor and we should be most grateful for that. It was busy on a weekday afternoon which is the sign of a proper community pub, with the welcome being warm and friendly. They accept card and cash, with the surroundings feeling inviting and clean. The lack of real ales is sub-optimal, but that might have just been a temporary matter as one pump clip was just turned around so perhaps there’s one available at the weekends. There’s plenty of external space and I hope that they get the fish and chips going again, a most agreeable situation for those visiting the pub.

  • Norwich – Nelson Pub [closed] (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Nelson Pub [closed] (Two Julians)

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    This is quite sad to see, the Nelson seems to be long-term closed and there doesn’t appear to be any activity going on at the moment that suggests that it might open again. The pub first opened in the 1850s and it’s fortunate that it’s still here as the owners attempted to demolish it in 1989 to build eight homes.

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    Located on the junction of Nelson Street and Armes Street, this is in a residential area and not far from the Fat Cat, so it certainly has some potential.

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    Unfortunately for the venue, it’s owned by Stonegate and that often means a tied pub and a hefty rent package so it would be a brave person who takes this on. Also, since it’s September and the open day was on 15 March, that doesn’t suggest they’ve found such a brave person yet. Likely Stonegate will spend £300,000 doing up the inside of the pub in some generic manner and then jack the rent up to something unachieveable. At the moment, and in support of Stonegate, they’re currently advertising the rent of this at £17,500 per year which is much lower than I’d expect from them although there are caveats to that.

    Stonegate themselves describe this pub as:

    “The Nelson is situated in a residential suburb to the Northwest of the city just outside the inner ring road and is considered a very traditional wet led venue. The décor is traditional, with a modern touch which creates a warm and relaxed atmosphere and welcomes the surrounding local community with traditional pub games and live sports. The pub has two distinct trading areas, which are divided by a double-sided central bar servery. The bars have a traditional style, fitting with the theme of the pub; one area having a pool table with space for up to 30 covers and the other approximately 50 covers. The Nelson also boasts an outdoor covered beer garden with a patio and spacious lawn, a great selling point during the summer season which has the potential to be very popular. Another great facility of this pub is its outbuildings which may be very useful for storage for the future publican. The light and spacious private accommodation consists of three-bedrooms, a lounge and a kitchen, ideal for a family. Stonegate Pub Partners are seeking an experienced publican who is willing to immerse themselves within the local community and maximise revenue.”

    I’m not convinced that this will re-open, but the community would no doubt benefit by having another pub open in this area.

  • Norwich – Fat Cat (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Fat Cat (Two Julians)

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    Julian and I decided to postpone a more rural visit to the further reaches of Norfolk in favour of a Norwich based tour, as I needed to be back for bar billiards. Julian S refers to this as something like bare knuckle stick action, but he doesn’t understand sport in the way that I do, although at times I wonder if he might just be right. When talking to people outside Norwich, the Fat Cat is one of the pubs that most people identify with the city as it has a long tradition of being a destination real ale pub since it opened in 1991. It has won many CAMRA awards, not least the National Pub of the Year twice, and is also listed in the Good Beer Guide. The pub, located on West End Street, had first opened in the late 1860s and was known as the New Inn until 1991, when it took its current Fat Cat name under the ownership of Colin Keatley. He had previously run the White Lion on Oak Street, which is today one of the best pubs in the country despite the landlord’s ability to lead me astray, but we won’t go too far down that line on this blog post.

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    Some of the extensive range of real ales, of which they had around twenty which shows just how much they’re selling here. There were also ciders and craft beer options, but the real ale selection was well balanced and all major beer types were covered. Breweries included Titanic, Thornbridge, Green Jack, Oakham to name just a few, along with the beers brewed in-house by the Fat Cat Brewing Company. Julian and I are very punctilious in every possible way, so we knew we had just time for one beer here despite the number of tempting and almost seductive options.

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    The beers are keenly priced, with one lower priced option which is a marvellous idea for a pub. It’s not cheap visiting pubs today given the cost of living increases, so affordable options are much appreciated and venues might find that they’re a necessity if matters continue as they are.

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    And more of the beer selection.

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    I went for the Marmalade Cat from the Fat Cat Brewing Company, which was well kept, fresh and suitably full bodied. Julian S also commented positively about his Citra from Oakham Ales.

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    There’s plenty of character to the pub and there’s no shortage of beer memorabilia about the place. That door leads to another seating area which is often used for meetings and the like.

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    Decorations attached to the ceiling. I would never dare do this in a pub that I had, I’d be nervous one would fall on someone’s head. I admire their confidence, or at least, I am realistic about my own DIY abilities. But, I digress.

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    There’s one long central bar and the venue has been extended on numerous occasions over the years. Although we visited on a quiet afternoon, I understand that it’s often very busy and it’s not always easy to find a seat. There was a mixture of regulars and also I got the impression a couple of visitors new to the pub who had heard about its reputation.

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    Some old pub signs and unfortunately the King’s Head at Worstead and the Shropham Three Horseshoes are no longer with us other than as memories.

    I haven’t been to this pub for nearly ten years and by chance, I was to visit it again the following evening for a CAMRA planning meeting for the Norwich Beer Festival. I was pleased to return, the choice of real ales was as good as anywhere in Norfolk and the service was immediate and friendly. I’m also pleased that I don’t need to write anything negative about this visit, as it would have been just a little sacrilegious to be critical of this fine establishment. Although, for the record, Julian and I are not easily kowtowed, so I would have mentioned any issues that arose, but I’m pleased to say there was nothing negative.

  • 200 Years Ago : Mental Health in the Early Nineteenth Century

    200 Years Ago : Mental Health in the Early Nineteenth Century

    In my series of posts from 200 years ago this week, there were two stories in the same issue of the Norfolk Chronicle and Norwich Gazette which I noticed. These type of stories are very common, so there’s nothing unusual with this, but it’s a reminder of how bad mental health was in the early nineteenth century and how this isn’t just something that is a modern situation as some people I’ve heard have suggested. There’s nothing new about struggling with life, as these two stories suggest.

    Firstly, from Great Yarmouth:

    “An unfortunate female threw herself into the river, near the bridge on the north side, about one o’clock on Wednesday morning; first deliberately taking off her cap, and placing it on the ground, she floated under the bridge, and had it not been for her clothes keeping her buoyant, she must inevitably have met with a watery grave. An alarm was immediately given by the watchman near the bridge, when she was got out with great difficulty, her clothes fortunately caught the rudder of a boat lying under the bridge, or she must have been drawn under by the rapidity of the current and would not have risen again. Jealousy is assigned as the cause of this imprudent act.”

    Mental health issues and insecurity were perhaps the real cause of the act, but this is from 1823 and it feels wrong to judge.

    Secondly, from Oulton, near Lowestoft:

    “An inquest took place before JE Sparrow, coroner, on the body of Susan Sewell, who on Friday 8 August put an end to her existence by hanging herself in a shed contiguous to her dwelling. It was stated in evidence that the deceased was upwards of 75 years of age and had the misfortune to lose her husband by an accident about three months ago, which calamity appeared to preyed so much upon her mind as to lead to self-destruction.”

    And that’s it, a tragic story of what was perhaps a lonely lady who felt she had no other options and I assume nowhere else to go. It all feels like a tragedy to me, but what has changed recently is attitudes to depression and mental health. It has clearly always been there since time immemorial, but at least now it is better understood and there are ways of tackling it.

  • 200 Years Ago : Youths and their Weapons in King’s Lynn

    200 Years Ago : Youths and their Weapons in King’s Lynn

    Continuing on my series of posts from newspapers of exactly 200 years ago, this short article is from the Norfolk Chronicle and Norwich Gazette. The newspaper was published on 30 August 1823, although it related to an incident of the week before in King’s Lynn.

    “Friday last a youth named Tooke was shooting near this town, when the piece burst, and so lacerated his hand that immediate amputation was necessary. The frequent practice of young persons carrying fire arms to shoot small birds, etc, in the vicinity of this town, cannot be too highly reprobated, as several accidents have occurred, and at times it is really dangerous to walk on the public road.”

    It’s perhaps interesting that at the point when this article was published, there were no gun control laws at all in the country. Anyone could carry anything they wanted for whatever purpose. The first legislation which limited this right was with the Vagrancy Act of 1824 where former soldiers from the Napoleonic Wars were often found homeless and in possession of weaponry. The Government weren’t too bothered with the homeless bit, but they felt it sub-optimal to have too many people with guns.

    The back story to this also is that the right to bear arms in the United States at that point came from the position in England. In the new United States the population wanted weapons to defend themselves from not just each other, but also from the Government. Their position on such matters has hardly changed in 200 years, leading to no shortage of guns there. I’m pleased in the UK that today we don’t have the situation of youths in King’s Lynn damaging themselves and each other with weaponry, it would make trips there feel like they had just a little too much jeopardy.