Category: Norfolk

  • Aylsham Pub Day – The Feathers

    Aylsham Pub Day – The Feathers

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    The Feathers was the first in our visit to all of the pubs in Aylsham and it has been operating since the early 1840s. I’m going to guess that it’s likely 1841, when Albert became the first Prince of Wales since the 1760s, as the Feathers name is frequently associated with the Prince of Wales so that fits time wise. But that’s just my guess, it could be complete nonsense as many of my theories are.

    Looking at old newspapers, I note that in August 1876 it was noted in the Lowestoft Journal, that bastion of journalism, that Stephen Underwood was given a spirits licence for the Feather. At the same petty sessions, John Rounce appears in court to fund his “bastard child”, the local butcher was fined as his mare had run riot in the town, a brickmaker was drunk in Hevingham and a hawker got drunk at the Stonemason’s Arms in Aylsham and refused to leave. It sounds a fun week in Aylsham.

    As was common at the time, inquests into deaths took place in pubs and the Feathers was no exception. This happened in March 1899 when an inquest into the death of Benjamin Watson was held here and it found that he hanged himself near to the Feathers after a period of illness and unemployment. I mention this as it’s easy to forget just how much history there is with these pubs and how important they are to the local community, as well as being a reminder of how tough people had it at the end of the nineteenth century with limited help available to those in pain and out of work.

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    Back to the present, there were two real ales available, the Ghost Ship from Adnams and the 6X Original Ale from Wadworth. This seemed a reasonable couple of options, they’re not seen everywhere and it’s positive to have a choice.

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    Starting off with the 6X, it was well kept and at the appropriate temperature.

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    Julian, who treats these study tours with professionalism and thoroughness that continues to inspire me, recommended that I try the Ghost Ship from Adnams. This seemed a little lively and was probably from a fresh barrel, but it tasted clean and was in good condition.

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    They’ve got a little games room to the side and I did think they could fit a nice little bar billiards table in here.

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    Despite what I consider my relative youth, Julian and I thought we might sign up. The whole concept of “never happy unless complaining” is an admirable and laudable aim.

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    Some of the rather beautiful interior decoration, although this stopped being a Bullards pub in the 1970s, then becoming Intrepreneur, Phoenix and Criterian Inns in relative quick succession following the Beer Orders in the late 1980s. That was venture capital hit pubs in a big way, something which has ultimately been rather sub-optimal in very many ways.

    Anyway, back to the pub itself, and there were a couple of locals at the bar when we entered. The relationship between the customers and the staff member at the bar here was just as a pub should be, always respectful but with a healthy dose of opprobrium as well from behind the bar. This pub seems to me like one where someone new to the area would feel welcome, my standard measure of the quality of the engagement being offered. The environment was inviting and friendly, with the pub being clean and well looked after, it felt like a safe place to be.

    Pubs like this must be tough to operate at the moment with the costs of operating a venue spiralling in seemingly all areas. The pub seems to be shrinking its opening times down a little, which might be a result of customers cutting costs, but the main thing is that the pub is still there being an important part of the local community. We didn’t investigate the beer garden, but it’s apparently of a generous size, so there’s no doubt opportunity for plenty of summer drinking to be had. This felt like a proper pub to me, I liked it.

  • Norwich – City of Ale Launch Party

    Norwich – City of Ale Launch Party

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    This is the first time that I’ve been able to go to the City of Ale launch party and I was able to get a ticket to the trade session which was most exciting. It took place this year at the Waterfront and there was an excellent turnout from pubs, brewers and also from the general public in the later session.

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    The indoors bar with beer from thirty local breweries and to quote the organisers, “they are all based on our region, almost all using barley grown and malted locally, so helping carbon footprint to a minimum”. So, environmental, local and delicious. It would be wrong of me to name any particular brewery, but obviously I have to mention the marvellous Boudicca brewing.

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    The launch party is to promote the City of Ale trails, which I’ve roped various friends into completing this year. I’m going to have a good go at trying to do all of them, such is my continued desire to support the hospitality industry. Again, I don’t want to name all my favourite pubs, but I have to make a quick reference to the wonderful White Lion and its landlord Oscar.

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    I was surprised and delighted to see some keg beers from Toby’s Beers who were operating the outside bar.

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    Julian and Emma, from Boudicca, were also at the event and one of the first things that Julian suggested was getting a pizza from Luca. I agreed that this seemed a marvellous idea, it’s about having a balanced diet.

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    Clive Lewis, the MP for Norwich South, was there to give a little speech at the start of the event.

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    And here’s Oli shouting at him.

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    I very much enjoyed my six different half pints from various local brewers. I went for the Wild Steamer from Wildcraft, Hana Solo from Mr Winter’s (very agreeable), Okapi from Grain Brewery, Cold Snap from Ampersand, Another Day Done from Duration Brewing and the Golden Panther from Panther Brewery.

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    And a delight to meet Roger Protz, the great beer writer who has kindly shared a Twitter post of mine in the past and is one of my most favourite Twitter followers 🙂

    This marvellous event only takes place due to volunteers and it’s responsible for thousands of extra visits to pubs in the city. The theme this year is the Strangers, the immigrants from Flanders who came to the region to avoid persecution, something also touched upon by Clive Lewis in his comments. Thanks to an idea from Roger Protz, there’s a new partnership with Belgian brewers and these collaboration beers will be available in a number of pubs during the festival, which takes place between 25 May and 25 June 2023.

  • Streets of Norwich – Hampshire Hog Yard

    Streets of Norwich – Hampshire Hog Yard

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project….

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    Located along St. Swithin’s Alley is the remnants of Hampshire Hog Yard, which was accessed from behind the Hampshire Hog pub, from which it took its name.

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    This is one of the six remaining thatched properties in Norwich and its current name, rather sensibly, is the Thatched Cottage. It was built as a residential property in the seventeenth century and became a pub in the early nineteenth century. The licensee in the 1880s was John ‘Licker’ Pratt who fought Jem Mace in a two-hour long bare knuckles fight and I can’t imagine that was pretty. Pratt won the contest though and I suspect he wasn’t concerned about dealing with any problems that might arise in his pub after that. It remained as a pub until 1912 when the authorities were trying to reduce the number of licensed premises. The street line used to go up to the frontage of the house, so there wasn’t historically a garden area as there is today and George Plunkett has a photo of this from 1938.

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    The Norwich Preservation Trust acquired the building in 1971 and renovated it over the next few years. George Plunkett offers some additional information about the pub, noting:

    “A yard at the rear bears the name of the Hampshire Hog, the sign of an adjacent tavern, being possibly the last house in England where the game of logats was played. The logats, resembling policemen’s truncheons, were to be tossed as near as possible to a wheel-shaped jack which had previously been thrown towards the opposite end of the ground; there was some similarity to the game of bowls. A set of logats is preserved in the Strangers Hall Museum.”

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    The sign, which isn’t immediately obvious to those walking by, to the former entrance to Hampshire Hog Yard. The yard was cleared just before the Second World War as part of the project to remove slum dwellings in the city, with no access now possible. In 1906, it was advertised that all the housing in the yard, and some besides, was for sale at public auction and, at that time, the properties here were unlikely to have been in a particularly good state of repair.

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    I’m not sure how old that sign is (someone has produced a guide to London street signs to help age them, but I’m not sure that any such facility exists in Norwich) but it must be at least eighty years old and is likely a fair chunk older than that.

    As for why the Hampshire Hog got its name, I’m unsure. A pub with the same name in London has its origins as a nickname for members of the Royal Hampshire Regiment, rather than anything to do with pigs. Perhaps there’s some similar link here.

  • Norwich – Food on Magdalen Street (Week 1 – The Street Cafe)

    Norwich – Food on Magdalen Street (Week 1 – The Street Cafe)

    And the establishment of yet another series of posts, this time a new project of James and I which is to visit every food venue along Magdalen Street. It just has to be open at lunchtime, not be too decadent and we’ll also stretch into Anglia Square as well before it’s knocked down (or falls down of its own accord). There are quite a variety of options, it’ll be an interesting few weeks working down them.

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    We started here, the Street Cafe and Coffee Bar which takes up two shop units towards the far end of Magdalen Street away from the city centre.

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    There’s a little external dining area for those who want to sit and watch the traffic on Magdalen Street. I can’t imagine why, but I imagine it’s handy for the smokers. Anyway, after entry we were greeted and seated promptly, with the service always being friendly, personable and pro-active.

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    The drinks menu.

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    The breakfast menu.

    The pricing for food isn’t cheap by any means. As a comparison, a mocha and full English breakfast in Harrods is £25.45 and it’s £19.05 here. It’s the highest pricing of any cafe that I can find in Norwich, but I have to note that it’s also one of the best reviewed so customers are clearly content. I couldn’t find any indication on the menu of where food items were sourced from, although I understand from reviews that items are locally sourced where possible.

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    There was a comfortable and inviting feel to the cafe so it seemed relaxed. It was also much bigger than I expected with another seating area in what was previously the next-door shop.

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    The cafe was nearly empty when we visited on a Wednesday lunchtime. Perhaps they get busy earlier on, but they shut at 14:00 so there’s no afternoon trade.

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    I don’t want to dwell on this for long, but the pricing of the soft drinks was a little high, although the alcoholic drinks were more moderate and I went for a Harrow Sparrow cyder from Aspall. This was fine, served at the appropriate temperature and in a clean glass. There’s also a waffle menu which has some sweet options including Snickers, Mars, Maltesers, Oreos, Biscoff, Cadbury and Kinder chocolate. These were reasonably priced at £7.95 and were served with sauces, creams and ice cream. The savoury waffles are a fair amount more expensive and although tempting, they came in pricier than at the Waffle House restaurant in Norwich.

    I am maybe focusing a little too much here on price, and I’m conscious of the exceptional price increases that the hospitality industry is facing. However, it put much of the menu out of my lunch budget, hence why I went for a cheaper option. The pricing is still relevant to a large degree, the second best rated cafe I could find is the Kitchen in Sheringham, which is significantly cheaper. They’re also more expensive here than the Pigs restaurant, reported to be the best the breakfast in Norfolk, not that I’ve been there to comment on that. Apologies for the mentioning of price, as I’m sure the cafe wants to pay their staff fairly and do things properly, but it did feel something that stood out somewhat compared to other venues.

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    Given the price points, I settled for a more basic bacon roll. The quantity of bacon was generous and I was pleased that I didn’t have to remove too much fat, one of my personal idiosyncrasies which is no comment on the cafe. It was perfectly adequate, although I’d say unexceptional in terms of the depth of flavour. James wasn’t over enamoured with the quality of the sausage in his bap, although the rolls were fresh and the bacon was cooked well and at the appropriate temperature.

    A slight limitation for me is that I’ve worked through so many bacon sandwiches at cafes and restaurants that I’m used to more ingredients being used such as the addition of a spicy sauce, the use of a chutney or something else that added to the depth of the flavour. The roll also wasn’t doing much for the taste or texture or the whole arrangement, but then again it’s a cafe and not some decadent upmarket restaurant. It’s also evident that this is how they’ve served it for a long time and it’s what people want, so I don’t wish to sound critical. But, it’s fair to say that I wasn’t taken away by the taste or flavours, it was just a bacon roll.

    However, there’s clearly nothing wrong here as they’ve been trading since 1996 and as mentioned earlier, the reviews are very high and they’re one of the best rated cafes in the area. There’s no doubt a slight premium that very many customers are willing to pay for the quality of the service, the cleanliness of the venue and the reliability of the food. I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, but I could be tempted to try their sweet waffles if I’m need of something of a chocolate boost and I’ll post back here if I go and try one of those. And perhaps one day I might even throw financial caution to the wind and try one of their cooked breakfasts to see just how good it is.

  • Norwich City of Ale – 2023 Trails

    Norwich City of Ale – 2023 Trails

    I’ll be back to the Gdansk trip shortly, but as a quick diversion….

    How exciting, it’s nearly time for the Norwich City of Ale trails, which I haven’t really had an opportunity to do in previous years. I’ve collared some people to assisting me with them this year, with further information at https://www.cityofale.org.uk/. The theme this year is Norwich Strangers, migrants from the Flanders area who were welcomed into Norwich, primarily in the late sixteenth century. The event takes place between 25 May and 25 June 2023.

    The trails are:

    Dutch Trail

    Brickmakers
    Brewery Tap
    Stanley
    Artichoke
    Marlborough Arms
    Cottage
    Leopard

    Flemish Trail

    Crown Point
    Redwell  
    Rose
    Murderers
    Lamb Inn
    Garnet
    Wildman

    Canary Trail

    Sir Tobys
    Playhouse Bar
    St Andrews Brewhouse
    Steam Packet
    Last Pub Standing
    Coach and Horses (Thorpe Road)
    Fat Cat & Canary

    Strangers Trail

    Crown Costessey
    Fat Cat
    The Ten Bells
    The Plough
    Strangers Tavern
    Belgian Monk

    Drapers Trail

    Whalebone
    Roseberry
    Angel Gardens
    Duke of Wellington
    White Lion
    Rumsey Wells
    The Vine

    Worsted Trail

    Plasterers
    Malt and Mardle
    Kings Head
    Merchants House
    Ribs of Beef
    Wig and Pen

    Walloon Trail

    Louis Marchesi
    Maids Head
    Golden Star
    Red Lion
    Lollard’s Pit
    Jubilee

    Weavers Trail

    Walnut Tree Shades
    Coach & Horses (Bethel Street)
    Georgian Townhouse
    Earlham
    Black Horse
    Garden House

    Dyers Trail

    Freemasons Arms
    Kings Arms
    Trafford Arms
    Unthank Arms
    The Warwick
    Beehive
    Cellar House

  • Dereham Pub Day Two – Two Julians

    Dereham Pub Day Two – Two Julians

    Julian and I returned to Dereham this week to visit the second batch of pubs (here’s the post about the first visit) to complete the 12 venues that we wanted to go to in the town. We’ve greatly enjoyed the expedition and have eaten at three of the pubs to ensure that we can try and experience as much of their offerings as we can, with the breadth of offering across Dereham being much more substantial that I had anticipated.

    Railway Tavern

    Greenstone

    Royal Standard

    Bull

    Gemini

    The Coachmakers Pub And Kitchen

    We’re looking at visiting Bungay next, although there seem to be plenty of provincial market towns in Norfolk and Suffolk which all sound equally tempting. The £2 bus fare each way for me is also a handy bonus, cost effective public transport is always a result.

    And here’s a reminder of the other six pubs we visited on the first trip.

    Cherry Tree

    George Hotel

    Red Lion

    Romany Rye

    King’s Head

    The Cock

  • Dereham Pub Day 2 – The Coachmakers Pub And Kitchen

    Dereham Pub Day 2 – The Coachmakers Pub And Kitchen

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    The Coachmakers was the sixth pub that Julian and I visited on our second day trip to Dereham. First opened in the early 1840s, this pub became part of the Chef & Brewer estate before being briefly owned and nearly ruined by Enterprise Inns, becoming free trade in 2011.

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    The front bar with the Encore and Falcon ales from Lacon. The service was polite and engaging, although my beer look a little long to arrive as the server explained it has been quite a lively little number in the cellar.

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    To diversify the pub also offers its own little wine shop.

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    We didn’t have any dining plans for the evening, but the pizzas looked tempting. Quite a premium for anyone who wants the meat feast, but this tempted me to get something to eat here.

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    The rest of the menu which is relatively small, but that seems a good sign as if it’s manageable it is often of a reliable quality.

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    The exposed brick gave the pub something of an historic atmosphere.

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    I opted for the Falcon Ale, an average session bitter which was well kept and at the appropriate temperature.

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    Richard came to join us at this point and I was tempted by the Blue Cheese burger which had been served to another customer (not their specific meal, I didn’t go and try and get some of it). I ordered that, as indeed did Julian and Richard, and it was entirely acceptable, a meaty burger and chips for a fluffy interior.

    This pub is a little out of the town centre but I’d suggest that it’s worth the effort to walk here as the surroundings are inviting and comfortable, the service was efficient and the food was most satisfactory. I was moderately saddened to leave here as it meant that our visit to the 12 pubs of Dereham was over, but I had been surprised and delighted with the variety of venues that the town had.

  • Dereham Pub Day 2 – Gemini

    Dereham Pub Day 2 – Gemini

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    Next up in the day’s pub visiting for Julian and I was the Gemini, operated by Greene King. First opened in 1965, I wouldn’t say that it’s the most beautiful building from the outside, but it looked neat and tidy from the exterior.

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    There was a bit of a wait for service (I took the photo when it was quieter) as a number of people came in at the same time, but the barman’s awareness was excellent and he ensured that everyone knew they had been seen at the bar. He was then engaging and conversational, so the first impressions here were very positive.

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    There were two real ales available, Greene King IPA and Greene King Old Speckled Hen. Again, this isn’t a beer that I’d write home about, but it was well-kept, served at the right temperature and in a clean glass, so the pub was doing everything right. They also pro-actively mentioned that they gave 10% off to CAMRA members, not something that is usually offered. I was also interested to hear about how if they could sell 180 pints a week then they could justify a guest beer, otherwise they were a bit more limited. They’re not at that level yet, but at least they’re taking good care of the beers that they have.

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    It’s a cavernous sized pub with a large function room area, a pub constructed to serve the estate around it. I’d say that they’re fulfilling that aim very competently, which was evident with how busy it was. They serve a relatively large food menu and a number of customers were eating as part of the pub’s “meet and eat” branding. They show sports, they have a pool table, a separate eating area and they seem to be catering for quite a wide audience.

    The reviews are a bit mixed, but this exchange seemed reminiscent of the JD Wetherspoon Paltry Chips Facebook group….

    “Used to be great but last time we went in we queried why my daughter only got 4 chips with the children’s meal and was told that it was the new portions? Never been back since. Rather go to wetherspoons now. Lost our custom after that.”

    This is seem a little sub-optimal to me, the pub’s response:

    “Hi Paul, I’m really sorry to hear this, our portion sizes don’t specify 4 chips but are weighted so I do apologise if you felt the portion was short.”

    Although this isn’t the only chip based complaint….

    “Very few chips..when i mentioned this the waiter just tutted and walked off”

    But, my favourite review involves the chef kicking the fridge and breaking his toe:

    “One of the bar staff who were also bringing the meals to the table, said “I am going to kill him (the chef,) because of the amount of meals which had to be returned to the kitchen and cooked again. The same bar staff came back to the table to say “The chef got himself in a tantrum and kicked the fridge and has broken his toe.” ABSOLUTELY DISGUSTING BEHAVIOUR.”

    Anyway, I won’t digress too much…. The whole experience was more positive than I anticipated, showing what can be achieved with keen and enthusiastic staff, even if they are slightly manacled by the whole Greene King arrangement with the limitations that this brings.

  • Dereham Pub Day 2 – The Bull

    Dereham Pub Day 2 – The Bull

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    The fourth pub of the day that Julian and I visited in Dereham was The Bull, part of the Greene King estate. It’s been a hospitality venue since the early 1790s and operated by Greene King since the early 1980s having previously been part of Watney Mann and then Chef & Brewer.

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    It initially looked like no real ale was available, but the server mentioned that they did have Old Speckled Hen from Greene King on. They’ve also listed on blackboards some events that they’ve got on as well.

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    I can’t say that it’s one of my favourite beers by any means, but it was well-kept here, at the appropriate temperature and served in a clean glass.

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    This is the main room and there’s another section of the bar off to the left.

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    I’m never entirely sure why the need for the “seniors deal”, can’t they just put smaller portion and make it available to all in the same way that JD Wetherspoon do? Anyway, I digress….

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    I liked the brickwork at the bottom right of the photo, but it doesn’t look as impressive here. I’m easily pleased to be fair.

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    Bargains galore on Friday afternoons. The pub has some slightly odd opening times, they close at 19:00 on Mondays, 18.00 on Sundays and 21:00 on Tuesdays to Thursdays, which seem relatively early to me.

    This was a perfectly nice pub, it was clean, well presented and there was a pleasant welcome and farewell so it felt informal and comfortable. The beer choices weren’t extensive, but the real ale that they had tasted fine and it was reasonably priced. I can imagine that it’s a challenging situation being quite near to a JD Wetherspoon outlet, but it’s still trading and is apparently busy in the evenings, so that’s all quite marvellous. And I have to mention again that this venue isn’t really that far from celebrating being open for a quarter of a millennium.

  • Dereham Pub Day 2 – Royal Standard

    Dereham Pub Day 2 – Royal Standard

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    The third pub in our second Dereham visit was the Royal Standard and firstly, I was impressed at how Julian spotted that under the paint above the right-hand window is the old frontage noting this was the Royal Standard. This was a pub between 1860 and 1982, at which point they changed the name of the Light Horse pub over the road to continue the traditional of the Royal Standard.

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    This is the pub that’s the Royal Standard now, opened as the Light Horse pub in the early nineteenth century.

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    This are the current opening hours, I’m impressed by their late opening every day of the week as these are some considerably long hours for a back street pub.

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    And I don’t know quite what to write here. The pub had no stout, no smooth flow, no craft keg, no craft bottles, no cask real ale, no real ale in bottles and I actually couldn’t see anything that I could realistically drink other than for a couple of generic lagers. So I ordered a Coke, something I didn’t think that I would ever have to write on one of these little reports of a day’s adventure. I also can’t judge what they usually serve from the pub’s Untappd records as no customer has checked a beer in for nearly a year.

    The service was polite and efficient, with the general atmosphere feeling inviting, with the helpful server telling us there was a beer garden if we’d be interested in sitting outside. I like a bit of engagement and the quite tight bar area itself was quite busy, so we thought that we’d go on a little explore. There were no issues with the welcome at the pub, it didn’t feel cliquey or specialist in some form. The prices were towards the higher end of the scale for the town, but weren’t unreasonable.

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    The carpeted beer garden.

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    It’s a decent sized garden and a wonderfully historic building. CAMRA note that they have sold Bateman’s beer, but I don’t know if they’re a tied house, but I’d assume not.

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    Julian had ordered a draft cider but they only had bottles, so for the sake of Untappd and the photos I was generously gifted some of the drink.

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    The outdoor bar and a BBQ which I assume is used in the summer months. The external area did look good in photos a couple of years ago, but might need a bit of a tidy-up now.

    I took the glasses back to the bar at the end of the visit so that I could report positively on any friendly farewell, but the barman ignored me and so I can’t really comment on that. The purpose of our visiting pubs is not to be particularly critical, but to pull out the not insubstantial number of venues that are really worth going to and might otherwise be forgotten. Sometimes the chain pubs have money to spend on advertising, the CAMRA award winning pubs get deserved publicity, but there are some pub owners and managers working hard to stay open and excite and delight customers who get forgotten. Energy bills are soaring, staff wages are rising, prices are going up limiting what customers can afford, these are challenging times.

    The Royal Standard is clearly keeping their customers happy as there were six or so in on a Thursday afternoon and they seem to be doing food at some point in the week, although I couldn’t find a menu on-line or in the pub. They’ve abandoned their social media pages so I can’t list any of the events that might be taking place here, with no obvious internal advertising either. They were doing carveries a couple of years ago which seemed successful, but despite my trying I can’t find any evidence that they’re still doing so.

    That’s about all that I can note here. At a best guess I can only suspect that the pub is not, if it’s being honest, looking for new customers and is free trade that is making its money serving their loyal regulars and opening long hours to try and accommodate that trade as best as it can. If that’s working for them, then it’s a marvellous situation that they’re carrying on a two century tradition of trade here and being of a real boost to the local community.