Category: Poland

  • Torun – UNESCO City

    Torun – UNESCO City

    The medieval town of Torun is undoubtedly beautiful and its heritage was recognised by UNESCO in 1997 when it was added to the official register World Heritage sites. There are 16 such listed sites in Poland and this is the sixth that I’ve visited.

    Pinching UNESCO’s text:

    “Toruń in northern Poland is a remarkably well preserved example of a medieval European trading and administrative centre, located on the Vistula River. Toruń was founded in the period when Christianity was being spread through Eastern Europe by the military monks of the Teutonic Order, and when rapid growth in trade between the countries of the Baltic Sea and Eastern Europe was being spurred by the Hanseatic League. Toruń became a leading member of the Hanseatic League in the territories ruled by the Teutonic Order.

    The Medieval Town of Toruń is comprised of three elements: the ruins of the Teutonic Castle, the Old Town, and the New Town. The combination of the castle with the two towns, surrounded by a circuit of defensive walls, represents a rare form of medieval settlement agglomeration. The majority of the castle – which was built in a horseshoe-shaped plan in the mid-13th century as a base for the conquest and evangelization of Prussia – was destroyed during an uprising in 1454, when the local townspeople revolted against the Teutonic Order. The ruins and the archaeological remains have been excavated and safeguarded. The Old Town was granted an urban charter in 1233, which swiftly led to its expansion as a major commercial trading centre. The adjacent New Town developed from 1264, mainly as a centre for crafts and handiwork. Both urban areas bear witness to the interchange and creative adaptation of artistic experience that took place among the Hanseatic towns.

    An exceptionally complete picture of the medieval way of life is illustrated in the original street patterns and early buildings of Toruń. Both the Old Town and the New Town have Gothic parish churches and numerous fine medieval brick townhouses, many of which have retained their original Gothic façades, partition walls, stucco-decorated ceilings, vaulted cellars, and painted decoration. Many townhouses in Toruń were used for both residential and commercial purposes. A fine example is the house in which Nicolaus Copernicus was reputedly born in 1473; it has been preserved as a museum devoted to the famous astronomer’s life and achievements. The townhouses often included storage facilities and remarkable brick granaries, some of which were up to five storeys high. Because so many houses have survived from this period, the medieval plots are for the most part still preserved, delineated by their original brick boundary walls.

    Criterion (ii): The small historic medieval trading and administrative city of Toruń preserves to a remarkable extent its original street pattern and outstanding early buildings. It set a standard for the evolution of towns in this region during Eastern Europe’s urbanisation process in the 13th and 14th centuries. The combination of two towns with a castle is a rare form of medieval settlement agglomeration that has survived almost intact, and numerous buildings of considerable intrinsic value have been faithfully preserved within the town. In its heyday, Toruń boasted a wide range of architectural masterpieces, which exerted a powerful influence on the whole of the Teutonic state and the neighbouring countries.

    Criterion (iv): Toruń provides an exceptionally complete picture of the medieval way of life. Its spatial layout provides valuable source material for research into the history of urban development in medieval Europe, and many of its buildings represent the highest achievements in medieval ecclesiastical, military, and civil brick-built architecture.”

  • Torun – Rubaru

    Torun – Rubaru

    The actual name of this restaurant is RuBaRu, although I’m unsure of the significance of the capitalisation and the owners have another outlet in Bydgoszcz. There might not be a large number of Indian restaurants in Poland, but those that there are don’t tend to be too bad at all. The welcome was immediate and seemed authentic, with the staff member being attentive and helpful throughout the meal.

    The interior is colourful and bright, with some of the building’s brickwork exposed towards the front of the restaurant. It was all comfortable, clean and welcoming, with an unhurried atmosphere. It wasn’t very busy when I went in, and by not very busy, I mean that I was the only customer. It got a little busier later on and there were also numerous takeaway orders, so it’s clearly not an unpopular location.

    The chicken saag, mixed vegetables, raita, naan bred, rice and salad, which was all part of a thali lunch-time meal deal. The food was well presented and exceeded my expectations, with the portion size being fine for a lunch and everything was at the appropriate temperature. The naan bread was rich and full of flavour, the rice was perfectly cooked and the raita was fine, although lacked texture. The freshly chopped salad might have been sitting for a short while as the lettuce was browning just slightly, but it still seemed relatively fresh. The mixed vegetables were almost the star of this little show, as they were soft and flavoursome. Let’s be fair, anything that can make vegetables taste good should be applauded. The chicken saag also had a richness of taste and the chicken was tender, although it didn’t seem to have a vast amount of the flavour from the sauce. But, nonetheless, this was all a very good meal.

    The prices were very reasonable, even by Polish standards, with the meal costing around £3 and the Żywiec costing around £1.50. The service was welcoming and, although the reviews have been quite mixed, I’d merrily recommend this restaurant to others. The rest of the menu looked well balanced and it contains some standard Indian dishes, as well as some more unique options, with a feeling of some authenticity to the whole operation.

  • Flixbus – Gdynia to Torun

    Flixbus – Gdynia to Torun

    Fifteen minutes before the scheduled departure time, the Flixbus pulls into the coach station located at the front of Gdynia’s railway station. The Flixbus app provides useful information on not just where the coach station is located, but also which bus stop to wait at. And, also, at the bus stop there’s confirmation that the Flixbus departs from platform 6.

    I think it’s fair to say that I’m not the biggest fan of Flixbus, they have been buying up what seems like most coach operators around Europe and the service offered has been, frankly, inadequate. After tens of journeys, not once have they managed to provide all of the following components:

    (i) A friendly driver

    (ii) Working wi-fi

    (iii) Adequate temperature

    (iv) Working power

    (v) Details of where the coach stop is (accurate information that is)

    Usually at least two or three of these aren’t achieved.

    But, glory be to God, after years of travel and much disappointment, this was my first perfect Flixbus journey. The driver was friendly, the coach was clean, the app was accurate, the power and wi-fi worked, as well as the temperature being appropriate. The coach arrived on time, the whole service was impeccable and excellent value at just £5 for the journey. The driving was safe and either things are getting better on Flixbus, or I’m just becoming lucky, but this was a bargain journey with a company that made everything easy.

  • Gdynia – Mercure Centrum

    Gdynia – Mercure Centrum

    This subtle little hotel does somewhat dominate the area it’s in, with some cavernous public spaces. Another hotel in the Accor chain, indeed I’m not moving away from them on this trip, it’s a little higher up their hierarchy then my usual Ibis hotels.

    The room, which was spacious and spotlessly clean. The hotel kindly upgraded me to a privilege room, located on the ninth floor of the building.

    The decor was modern and contemporary, with this apparently being one of the room designs chosen by staff.

    I’ve had worse views from a hotel room….

    Ooooh, I love Nespresso machines. Not enough to actually pay for one myself, but I like it when other people or hotels have them. And, as another bonus, the staff were assiduous in their restocking of the room for the second night.

    My welcome gift, a rather lovely local beer. A nice gesture, one I commend.

    The downstairs bar area, spacious and clean.

    My welcome drink of Żywiec, although they did offer an IPA from the barrel. In retrospect, I should probably have had the latter to show that hotels should do more beer such as this. One day there will be a dark beer to choose from, or something a little more unique. Anyway, the service at the bar was friendly and helpful.

    The long corridors of the hotel. As for breakfast, I got lost walking around the ground floor looking for it. I gave up with looking for it and went to ask the staff member at reception. She seemed used to telling people where they’d hidden the breakfast room, and I don’t think anyone else noticed me walking around looking lost.

    There were some hot options at breakfast that I wasn’t too engaged with, but the cold options were excellent and there was plenty of choice across numerous tables. I’d also like to apologise to the hotel, as they probably wondered where the meat on that front plate kept disappearing to. I might have become a little addicted to it as it almost melted in the mouth, one of the best cold cuts I’ve had. They kept bringing more out promptly though and didn’t seem to want to find the culprit.

    A proper breakfast should be like this. Incidentally, I had another little emergency at the hotel breakfast at the fruit juice machine. Customers are meant to press the button once to get the drink, and I’m dead good at this now, having had the same machine at the last four hotels. Here though, on my second refill, the machine went a little berserk and didn’t stop pouring, disgorging gallons of apple juice everywhere. Admittedly the machine’s drip tray caught it all (I once flooded an airport lounge floor in India with about half a bag in box of Pepsi, so I appreciated the lack of flooding here), but probably around 20 or 30 litres went through, it was quite a sizeable loss, so I alerted a staff member. She was one of the few non-English speaking members of staff the hotel had and I didn’t know the Polish for “I’ve flooded your apple juice machine”, so by the time she came over to have a look the machine had stopped and she was none the wiser as to what I wanted. I think she just assumed the British aren’t quite with it, so I left it at that.

    This is the height of sophistication as far as I’m concerned. I couldn’t find the butter, just pots of margarine and I don’t much like the taste of that. I then stumble (not literally) on this machine which is like a little piece of magic. You press the button and a perfectly formed circular disc of butter falls out of the bottom onto a plate. Quite magical and very delicious. No doubt all my posh friends are used to such technology, but I don’t get out much.

    Part of the breakfast room, which was never that busy, so it remained a relaxed and comfortable environment.

    As for the hotel generally, it was as near perfect as I could have wanted. The staff were friendly, the room was clean, there were no noise disturbances and I very much liked the view over the sea. The prices were also very reasonable, under £30 per night including breakfast. During the summer months, this is a much more popular hotel as the tourists flood in, so I imagine the prices are higher then. But, for the time I was there, admirable value for money.

  • Gdynia – Traffic Lights

    Gdynia – Traffic Lights

    I think it’s fair to say that the content I’m writing isn’t necessarily the most enthralling today, but I’m quite pleased at this development in traffic lights at pedestrian crossings….

    There are many crossings across Poland where I’m never quite sure when I’ve successfully pressed the button to cross. Not having an engineering mind, I’ve also noted many other British people struggle with their operation, as they don’t make sense to me. However, revolution is here with these, there are lights which flash to show where to press and then they make clear with all manner of shapes (well, a circle) when it’s time to cross the road.

    However, I’ve noticed over the last couple of days that whilst children seem to love pressing them, some of the more slightly mature generation look entirely bemused at them.

    A button for pedestrians using the new crossing, photo: Kamil Złoch

    I think the local authorities are quite pleased with them too….

  • Gdynia – Beach

    Gdynia – Beach

    Gdynia has a beach, although I expect that it’s a lot nicer and more pleasant during the summer months….

  • Gdynia – Pope John Paul II

    Gdynia – Pope John Paul II

    Pope John Paul II, who was the first non-Italian Pope since 1523, was an important figure not just to the Catholic Church, but also in the political reform movement. He came to Gdynia in June 1987 and he made a speech which mentioned the word ‘solidarity’ on several occasions. This was a deliberate reference to the Solidarity movement which had sprung up in Gdansk, and in other Polish cities, wanting reform and modernisation of the country.

    Wojciech Jaruzelski, the Polish head of state at the time, wasn’t best pleased at this speech, as he had been saying quite clearly that Solidarity was finished and had no future. Jaruzelski, who was later fortunate to avoid trial for serious crimes against humanity because of his age, wasn’t entirely correct, as Lech Wałęsa from the Solidarity movement became the democratically elected President of Poland in 1990. Jaruzelski later renounced communism, although his reputation by that time was shattered beyond repair and I do wonder what he thought of Poland by the time he died in 2014.

    Tens of thousands of people turned up to hear Pope John Paul II when he visited and this statue recalls some of the words that he said at the time. The city of Gdynia has also renamed one of its main streets, al. Jana Pawła II, after the Pope.

  • Gdynia – Shrubbery

    Gdynia – Shrubbery

    From a previous visit I made to Gdynia, some interesting shrubbery (I used that word solely for the Monty Python reference) in the city’s park.

  • Gdynia – C Corner Cafe

    Gdynia – C Corner Cafe

    This cafe looked of a reasonable size and seemed well reviewed, so I accidentally meandered in. I seem to do a lot of accidental meandering into cafes and pubs, but such is life. There was coffee cup decoration on the walls and I liked the clarity of the service, which was to pay at the counter and then wait for the food and drinks to be brought over. This is my favourite style of service, with the staff member being helpful and polite. The customer base was also quite mixed, which is usually a positive sign, with students on laptops and middle-aged women chatting.

    Some appetising and delicious looking cakes, although I hadn’t intended to eat anything on this visit.

    The latte was well presented and had a richness of taste.

    The temptation was too strong. The mango cake, which was served as a large portion and was moist and flavoursome. There were pieces of mango within the cake, with the chocolate accoutrements sticking out the top adding some extra texture. The cake was quite sweet, but was fresh and piquant. It wasn’t the cheapest of cafes, but the quality of the products justified the cost, with the atmosphere being suitably relaxed and informal.

  • Gdynia – Film Festival Sculpture

    Gdynia – Film Festival Sculpture

    The Gdynia Film Festival (or the Festiwal Polskich Filmów Fabularnych w Gdyni) is a substantial event for the area, having been annually since 1974, other than for a couple of years when Poland was under martial law. From 1974 until 1986, the event was held in Gdansk, but since then it has been held in Gdynia.

    The names of the winners of various categories are added to this sculpture after the results are announced, so it’s one of the few pieces of public artwork which is constantly updated. It’s a nicely crafted sculpture, something a little different for the park that it’s located in, which is the Council of Europe Park.