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  • Ridgeway – Final FAQ

    Ridgeway – Final FAQ

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix a broken image link]

    The final post of Ridgeway 2018 is this one, and I’d like to thank everyone for a marvellous time. It was a harder walk than most of us expected, even though we’ve walked further, and even though it wasn’t a rushed week.

    So, I feel that a final FAQ is now in order as this is the post that people will read first if they stumble across this blog over future years.

    For all the posts on the Ridgeway, go to https://www.julianwhite.uk/tag/ridgeway/ and keep scrolling down  🙂

    Q. Who took part in this walk?

    A. Seven members of Hike Norfolk, Susanna, Bev, Dave, Steve, Steve M, Maggie and last, but definitely not least, Julian (me).

    Q. How far was it?

    A. The official route is 87 miles, but we think we walked 108 miles including getting to hotels and some walking around the local area in the evening (at the beginning of the week this included a lovely walk around Marlborough, towards the end of the week, it was a stumble back to the hotel room).

    Q. Is it a walk worth doing?

    A. Yes. The route covers a swathe of English countryside and with few exceptions, such as motorways, it feels that it remote and rural. The path crosses a few towns, but never did it feel like an urban walk.

    Q. Will Hike Norfolk be completing the walk again?

    A. We try to do a new long distance path every year. It’s unlikely we’d do it again in the near future.

    Q. Who led the walk?

    A. I did.

    Q. How would you rate the leader?

    A. Beyond exceptional.

    Q. What the best bit of the walk?

    A. Seeing the standing stones. Actually, there weren’t any, but it amused the group.

    Q. And the worst bit?

    A. There were no bad bits, but when feet are tired, the climb out of towns is a struggle.

    Q. Which way should the walk be done?

    A. Either works out, but I liked the finish at Ivinghoe Beacon, it felt like a real climax to a week of walking. Finishing at the other end, in the west, is a little bit more of an anti-climax.

    Q. How many days should the walk be done over?

    A. I know people who have done it in four, five and six. Six is the most comfortable option and is the one I’d recommend.

    Q. What’s the signage like?

    A. Well, we discovered that it was possible to go wrong, and we did on a couple of occasions. But this was mostly our fault, the signage along the route is clear and in good shape. Some idiots have tried to remove the kilometres distance off the signage over recent years, but much of this damage has been repaired.

    Q. Is there water along the route?

    A. Particularly in the western half there are numerous water sources. It’s a bit less frequent in the eastern half of the walk, so anyone attempting a wild camping option might want to take extra supplies in that section.

    Q. Are there are enough hotels and restaurants along the route?

    A. Yes, and prices are generally reasonable, but early booking is best. I might, if I ever get time, try and produce a better guide to that.

    Q. What was your group like?

    A. Loud.

    Q. Can I join?

    A. Yes. We list our walks at http://www.meetup.com/Norfolk-Area-Ramblers/ and we have lots of trips away. They’re usually booked up early, but for anyone interested, join us and follow what happens   🙂

    Q. What’s the public transport like on the Ridgeway?

    A. Generally, it’s not great. It’s easy enough to get from Swindon to Avebury by bus, and then walk to the start point. The other end does have a limited bus service, but it’s probably easier to walk back to Tring station (about 2.5 miles) where the train services are frequent. Along the way it’s likely to be a taxi that gets walkers from the route to their accommodation, assuming they’re not staying on the route.

    Q. Can the path by cycled?

    A. Cycling looks so tiring… But it can, although the routes vary in places to the walking tracks.

    Q. Are there are Greggs on route?

    A. Unfortunately, very few. There are two in Swindon and one in Marlborough, but this isn’t a route designed for eating Greggs on. I hope that in future years the situation improves, to ensure that walkers can be properly fuelled by high quality Greggs food.

    Q. Are there snakes?

    A. Probably. But we didn’t see any. We saw lots of kites and other birds along the route, and I liked to think that they were eating all the snakes. I’m not sure that kites eat snakes, but it’s a nice thought.

    Q. Are there dangerous animals along the route?

    A. I feel threatened by numerous cows, sheep and horses, but they didn’t injure us. They also seem used to walkers.

    Q. What food should I take on the Ridgeway?

    A. Crisps. They can be purchased at most shops along the route.

    Q. Any final reason why someone should walk the Ridgeway?

    A. It’s one of the oldest routes in Europe and people have walked along this ridge paths for thousands of years. Much of it is on chalk ridges and these didn’t get flooded or wet, hence why they were used to walk on. It also gave traders, walkers and soldiers the protection of a little height to see any dangers which might be lurking around. So, the history of this walk is rarely far away, and it adds to the whole experience to imagine people walking these very same paths such a long time ago.

    Q. Should I buy a guide book?

    A. In terms of the route, it’s not really necessary to have a guidebook to help find the way, as it’s well signed throughout. Combined with a .gpx file, it should be nearly impossible to go wrong, although we did make a few little errors over the course of the week.

    Before I went on the trip, I used the official National Trails book, well, looked at in the library, and there are some useful things to see along the route. This is the main advantage of the book, it’s a little out of date for matters such as accommodation (which is really done best on-line now).

  • Ridgeway – Technical Information and Awards

    Ridgeway – Technical Information and Awards

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but I’ve reposted it to fix the broken image link]

    Firstly, the awards from the week:

    BEST ORGANISER OF TAXIS : Steve

    STRONGEST WALKER : Joint award between Dave and Steve M

    BRAVEST WALKER : Julian

    LOUDEST WALKER : Bev

    BEST FLOWER ARRANGER : Bev

    MOST LEWD COMMENTS : Joint award between Susanna and Bev

    AWARD FOR GETTING TRAIN TICKETS CHANGED : Susanna

    BIGGEST DRINKER : Joint award between Bev and Dave

    MOST INAPPROPRIATE WALKER : Bev

    BEST HISTORY KNOWLEDGE : Susanna

    MOST COMPLAINING ABOUT INJURIES : Joint award between Julian and Maggie

    KINDEST WALKER : Maggie

    WALKER MOST INTERESTED IN THE WELFARE OF OTHERS : Maggie

    WALKERS LEAST INTERESTED IN THE WELFARE OF OTHERS : Joint award between Bev and Julian

    BIGGEST BUYER OF DRINKS : Dave

    THE AWARD FOR LAUGHING AT THE MISFORTUNE OF OTHERS : Joint award between Bev and Julian

     

    DISTANCES COVERED

    This is tricky. The walk itself is 87 miles, but we had to walk off the route to get to some accommodation. I’m excluding the distance walked before the walk started, ie, the evening in Swindon. So starting the walk from Avebury, I make that 108 miles. For Maggie and Steve M there was a shorter distance, but they are in dispute about this, so they can provide their own figure   🙂

    But, whatever the distance, the achievement of everyone was undeniable, we walked the entire Ridgeway!   🙂

  • Ridgeway – Day 6 (Summary)

    Ridgeway – Day 6 (Summary)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image link]

    DISTANCE WALKED: 13.1 miles

    BRAVEST PERSON: Maggie, for bravery in battling on despite a damaged foot.

    QUOTE OF THE DAY: “What a beautiful bush” – Susanna  “We’ve done it, this bloody walk is over” – Julian   “Someone has got me up the duff” – Susanna  “I think Maggie has been the biggest whinger of the week” – Bev  “I object to that, I always win the whinger of the week” – Julian  “Well done everyone, we’ve done it” – Julian


    The first bit of news is that we’ve done it. We’ve completed it, all seven of us! So well done to us all, especially Maggie who struggled with her foot on the final day, and she has won the bravest person of the day in an exceptional display which even out-matched Julian. Although it obviously wasn’t impressive enough to win the whole week.

    We started off the day at the Innkeeper’s Lodge and we decided that we really couldn’t be bothered to walk to the start of Ridgeway, so we got a taxi. Well, two taxis turned up to cater for our large party, and we had a lovely into Wendover. The distance today wasn’t that large, but that can sometimes be deceptive. We had a decent breakfast though, and Bev was moderately pleased with the quality of the ingredients. We didn’t go for the cooked breakfast though, so no complaints about the egg today.

    The one slight quirk of completing a long distance path is that it’s essential to complete every foot of the distance. That means if we stop one side of the road in an evening, we can’t start on the other side of the road the morning after. So, bar one person (who I won’t name as I don’t want the official record to show they didn’t really finish) we all crossed the road, ceremoniously touched the wall and ensured that we were on the way to completing a technically complete Ridgeway walk.

    We meandered along what was mostly a woodland walk and made good progress throughout the morning. It was a delight to arrive at Tring station, which is around two thirds of the way to the end, just after mid-day. The last section of the walk is hilly, and some of the group had been rather dreading it.

    We had a short stop at Tring station and purchased our train tickets for the journey into London later on in the day. I had a numerous cereal bars and some delicious water, which I was rather wishing was something a little stronger.

    The last section did though go relatively quickly and the incline was smooth. Bev was complaining, but we’ve developed strategies to ignore that. Bev and I had a good gossip about everyone else on the walk and we carefully compared each other notes.

    To reach the end was a complete delight, and it was great to see what everyone finished together. It’s been a long week of walking and more challenging than some of us thought, but that makes it all the more of a challenge.

    I asked a kind lady to take some photos of us all, which she did, and that will be our permanent reminder of our bravery. After a few minutes at the top of the hill we decided to get a taxi to take us to the pub. This was after having to rush to the car park to meet up with the two taxis that were collecting us, and they certainly made the journey memorable with their style of driving….

    We went to the Valiant Trooper in Aldbury, which everyone thought was suitably named because of my bravery during the week. The others forced me to have a stout and a fish & chips meal, and being a helpful person, I agreed. It was delicious and a very positive end to the whole event.

    At this stage Dave, Susanna and Steve joined me in the journey back to Norwich via Tring railway station, London Euston and London Liverpool Street. Without giving too many details and getting someone into trouble, we were allowed to get an earlier train for free. I will though say that Susanna is a wonderful woman for arranging this! Indeed, she soared past Bev in wonderfulness during the afternoon.

    On the train Steve battled through to get us coffees and cake and I started to eat my four sandwiches which I had got cheap from Boots for 50p each. A thrifty approach to food is essential in this day and age. We’re all now on the train on the journey home whilst I catch up on the parts of the blog that I didn’t get time to do in the week.

    So, overall, thanks to Maggie, Steve, Steve M, Dave, Susanna and Bev. Everyone added something different to the week and I’m pretty sure that we’ll always remember Ridgeway 2018   🙂

  • Ridgeway – Day 6 (Summary)

    Ridgeway – Day 6 (Summary)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

    The photos from day six of our walking adventure, the final day!

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  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Great Hospital Expanded

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Great Hospital Expanded

    In my latest occasional series of newspaper articles from 200 years ago this week, this was published in the Norwich Mercury in May 1825.

    “A special assembly of the Corporation was held on Wednesday last, to consider of making an increase to the Great Hospital. In the Commons, the following proposition was made by Mr. Goodwin, and seconded by Mr. Bennett—“That a new ward should be erected capable of containing twelve beds.”

    Mr. Skipper moved, as an amendment, “That an addition be immediately made to the Great Hospital, by the erection of forty cottages.” This was seconded by Mr. Edw. Taylor. On a division the numbers were,

    For Mr. Skipper’s amendment 27
    Against it 9

    —Majority 18″

    I took my exams in the Great Hospital, so I feel some sort of connection with the place. The institution dates back to 1249, when Bishop Walter de Suffield set it up to care for “twenty poor folk” – a mix of aged, infirm and needy townspeople. Over the centuries it grew into a complex of almshouses, a chapel, a schoolroom and a small infirmary. The beginning of the nineteenth century was a challenging time for Norwich in terms of the number of people struggling, the clothing industry was becoming less financially lucrative and the population of the city grew from 37,256 in 1811 to just under 50,000 a decade later.

    But back to the expansion of the hospital, as during a special assembly of the Corporation, held on a Wednesday in early May, the matter of increasing the hospital’s capacity was brought forward. Mr. Goodwin proposed the erection of a new ward capable of housing twelve beds, a proposition that was seconded by Mr. Bennett. However, an amendment was swiftly introduced by Mr. Skipper, suggesting a more substantial addition in the form of forty cottages. With regard to “the Commons”, the city of Norwich possessed a civic structure where freemen, individuals who had either inherited the status, completed an apprenticeship, or purchased the right, could participate in civic matters within a common assembly. By 1790, the electorate in Norwich included both freeholders and freemen who held the right to vote for key municipal officers, including the mayor, sheriff and members of the common council. They had some more money to spend from the rental income that they were generating and this was an early form of the social care that slowly evolved.

    Matters seem to have changed a little in the planning, as there were twenty cottages erected in 1826. They’re still there today, known as the White Cottages, although they’re mostly used as offices today.

     

  • Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market (2025 Edition) – Week 13 and Bun Box

    Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market (2025 Edition) – Week 13 and Bun Box

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    This week’s attempt to eat at every food stall at Norwich Market was Bun Box, which we visited in 2023 when we last embarked on this little project. Last time we visited, I wasn’t entirely sure about the value for money when I ordered a chicken katsu bun and I thought that the pricing was towards the higher end of the scale for the market.

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    The menu board. Incidentally, I didn’t take as many photos of the stand generally as I didn’t want the police to think that I was trying to capture them in my little arrangement. Neither James or I remembered that they did these more substantial meals which are listed on the lower menu, but having checked on the menu board from last time, not a great deal has actually changed. The price increases here over the last two years are relatively small, mostly either 50p or £1 on the price of a meal.

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    The list of sides. The service was friendly and personable, with the queueing system clearly signed as it might not otherwise be entirely obvious. The stall was busy when we were there and the team member was warning customers that they might face a ten or fifteen minute wait. The stall has clearly built up something of a loyal following judging by the numbers of customers who were coming here, with the menu being quite broad.

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    We had an eight minute wait for the food, but that seemed reasonable given how busy it was. They prefer cash, but they do accept cards as well. They give customers a numbered ticket and also try and batch together food orders so groups get their food at the same time.

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    I ordered the spicy chicken don which cost £9. This was pieces of panko chicken with sticky rice, teriyaki sauce, lettuce, spring onion, sriracha sauce, sesame seeds and Japanese mayo. This surprised and delighted me much more than when I had the bun a couple of years ago. The chicken was very slightly dry, but the coating added flavour and the sauce added some extra taste. The sesame seeds and spring onions added texture and the rice was suitably sticky. The large pieces of lettuce covered in sauce were a bit of a faff to eat and could have been smaller, but I felt that the whole meal was filling and represented decent value for money.

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    James sashayed excitedly towards the counter and went for a spicy chicken bun which was £5.50 and he seemed pleased after ordering. When the two meals arrived, with his looking like a little side to mine, he then promptly spent the next half an hour complaining about how small his selection was. He received one piece of chicken, mayo and lettuce, which didn’t seem to me to be quite as good value. I wonder if they’d be better charging a little bit more and giving customers two of the buns, as James didn’t find his selection as filling as mine. Indeed, he complained about numerous things about the bun, but he was centred on that he finished eating it in about twenty seconds. I think he spent longer taking a photograph of it rather than eating it, but I didn’t say anything. I’m apparently meant to explain that he was disappointed about the amount he received compared to how many chips he got last week, but I feel that I’ve done that now.

    Basing this on just my experience, I thought that this was all quite agreeable, with the service being friendly and the food having a suitable depth of taste and flavour. However, for value for money, I’d personally go for one of the larger meals.

  • Foxley – Church of St. Thomas the Apostle (Mabel Annie Purdy – 1883-1913)

    Foxley – Church of St. Thomas the Apostle (Mabel Annie Purdy – 1883-1913)

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    This grave at the Church of St. Thomas the Apostle caught my eye as it commemorated the life of Mabel Annie Purdy who died according to the gravestone at the young age of just 28. I was initially confused as the church’s birth register notes that a Mabel Annie Purdy was born on 25 November 1882 and baptised on 15 February 1883. However, I then noticed a birth of Mabel Annie Purdy on 7 August 1883 and baptism on 26 October 1884, so I assume the first little girl died and they wanted to give their next child the same name. Both girls were the daughters of Henry Purdy, a publican, and Rosina Purdy (nee Connell). The pub that they ran was the Chequers in the village, which closed in 1968, but apparently the pub sign remains in place so the building on Stocks Hill remains. Henry was a farmer and he was the licensee of the pub between 1863 and very early in 1913, when he died, which is quite a tenure.

    Mabel was mentioned in the Eastern Evening News on 14 April 1902 when her beautiful singing in a concert in Bawdeswell to raise money for the Foxley church bells was mentioned. These church bells have had a substantial amount of fund raising over the years…. The Downham Market Gazette also mentioned on 29 December 1900 that Mabel was excellent at needlework and the Eastern Daily Press on 24 October 1901 mentioned that Mabel and her sister Ada were bridesmaids at the wedding of Albert Green and Edith Purdy. At least those newspaper mentions add a little colour to the detail of her life, I always find it a little sad when it seems nearly nothing is known.

    Mabel died on 23 April 1913, not long after her father died. Unfortunately, I can’t find any mention in the local newspapers as to why she died, so that remains a mystery for the moment at least…

  • Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market (2025 Edition) – Week 12 and Lucy’s Fish and Chips

    Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market (2025 Edition) – Week 12 and Lucy’s Fish and Chips

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    This week’s episode of James and I working our way around every food stall at Norwich Market. And, this week, it was a visit to Lucy’s Fish and Chips, where James and I have been going for over a decade and which received the incredible accolade as our second (well, my second as I’m writing it) stall in 2023. James only walked by three people he knew today, although I suspect there were more as he disguises the interactions to pretend he’s anti-social. The stall also has a sister outlet on the market which we’ve already visited this year.

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    The menu and the prices, with an apology printed on the counter that price increases have been necessary due to increasing costs. The price increases are in keeping with other stalls, with the haddock going from £5 to £6.50 in two years and the cod from £6.50 to £8. The stall accepts cash and card, although there’s now a sign stating that they prefer cash. The queueing system felt suitably logical and the stall was constantly busy when I was there, with a wide selection of different items being ordered.

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    The specials are visible in the background and a reminder that they use vegetable oil here. There’s also a vegan and vegetarian menu available to broaden their appeal to non-fish eaters.

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    I decided against the battered cauliflower, though to be fair, anything’s an improvement on plain cauliflower. The service was friendly, engaging and personable, although it helped that they knew James as they probably remembered some odd social interaction he had with them years ago or some joke or pun he made. There’s an informal and inviting feel to this stand, so I felt welcome. I went for the small cod, chips and curry sauce for £6.50, which I thought was reasonably priced. It took twelve minutes to be prepared which seemed a long time as James got him immediately, but sometimes food is worth the wait and they were busy.

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    The seating area where we were able to get a seat, although James had a bit of a wait to get us one. Not that it mattered to me as I was standing on the other side of the stall excitedly waiting for my number to be called out. The problem with us deciding these stalls on the day is that I don’t know in advance to bring my own ketchup, as I’m too tight to pay whatever the cost is here. The seating area was clean and ordered, with customers sitting here fairly reliably having ordered from the stall and not being interlopers from nearby stalls which don’t have their own executive seating area.

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    The cod was larger than I expected and they had forgotten the scraps (which I insist on calling them, although they call them crispies at the stall), but willingly added them in a bag on request. The bottom of the cod was perhaps a little soggy, but the fish flaked away and had a depth of flavour. The batter had some crispiness to it and a pleasant taste, whilst the chips were firm on the exterior and suitably fluffy on the interior. The curry sauce was also served as a generous portion and added to the whole delicious arrangement.

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    James went for his usual and he was moderately annoyed to discover they’d forgotten that his usual was two small battered sausages and not just one. He forgave them though, one of the few stalls where he would. I do remember the butcher’s sausages that they used to have here and I do miss those, although James was content with the quality of his battered option today.

    I left the stall feeling that I had enough food as it was sufficiently filling and the value for money was excellent. The cod was of a decent quality, the service was friendly, the surroundings were clean and it was good to be back. This is, once again, one of the best stalls that we’ve visited this year on the market. All really rather lovely.

  • Foxley – Church of St. Thomas the Apostle

    Foxley – Church of St. Thomas the Apostle

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    Next on the tour of Norfolk churches that Richard and I were embarking on was the Church of St. Thomas the Apostle in Foxley. Unfortunately, the church was locked, so I’ll have to limit myself to just the exterior of the building. There has been a church here since Saxon times, although it was rebuilt in stone in the Norman period and most of the nave is from the early fourteenth century and the chancel a little earlier.

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    I’m assuming these trees mark an extension to the churchyard.

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    The tower with its not very subtle built-in staircase. The bells in the tower were restored and rededicated in January 2014 by the then Bishop of Norwich, the Rt. Reverend Graham Jones. The bell ringers here have had some challenges over the years, as the Downham Market Gazette reported in November 1879 that £5 was needed to restore the bells as they had been out of use for some time. There was then another fund raiser in 1901 as the bells needs work again, and indeed, nearly every newspaper article mentioning the church over the last 300 years has been about these bells.

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    The porch was added in the middle of the fifteenth century.

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    The porch arrangement, now missing its niche statue which was likely removed during the Reformation, was funded by the local Grey family.

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    The wall painting is from the nineteenth century when the Victorians tidied the building up.

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    The porch door which is around 700 years old and it does look like it has some heritage to it. I make my usual comment that it still feels special to be able to see a door that has been used by generations by the local congregation and it’s so old that it was originally a door to the pre-reformation Catholic church.

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    The end of the chancel and this part of the building dates from the late thirteenth century.

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    The chancel which looks like it was rendered at one point, but that has at some stage mostly fallen off. The render does make quite a lot of sense in terms of protecting the building, and it’s likely the church was rendered for quite a chunk of its history, but it’s nice to see the raw stone underneath.

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    The side of the chancel, which appears to have been increased at some point given that odd brickwork at the top.

    There are apparently some interesting elements inside, including the fourteenth century font, the old pulpit and the repaired rood screen, but they’ll have to wait until we visit again when the church is open.

  • Greggs – 2015 Receipt

    Greggs – 2015 Receipt

    I wish chicken bakes were that now…. Although, finding these old receipts is reminding me that things weren’t quite as cheap as I seem to remember them being ten years ago.