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  • Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Schützenscheiben – Ferdinand V from 1830)

    Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Schützenscheiben – Ferdinand V from 1830)

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    This rather bold bit of decorative violence is a Schützenscheibe, a painted shooting target, and this blog might be featuring a fair few of these. This one features Ferdinand V (1793-1875), King of Hungary, looking thoroughly regal while charging into battle atop a very well-behaved horse. The date is 1830, when he was crowned in Bratislava (or Pressburg, depending on how much imperial nostalgia you’re feeling), and this object captures the solemn majesty of that moment, shortly before someone presumably tried to shoot it in the face. I was quite engaging with these targets, although that will likely become obvious to my two loyal blog readers when they see how many more there are.

    The Schützenscheibe tradition was a peculiar mix of patriotic enthusiasm and marksmanship, whereby people celebrated important figures or events by painting them onto wooden discs and then proceeding to fire projectiles at them. It’s not quite a state portrait, more of a royal rendering with optional bullet holes, but as ever, I rather liked it. Ferdinand V is doing his best “imperial grandeur” pose here and he’s wearing the Hungarian Crown of St. Stephen, because nothing says “shoot me here” like a giant jewel-encrusted hat. The whole thing is painted with surprising finesse, especially considering its fate involved standing at the end of a rifle range.

    There aren’t many holes in this one, so perhaps it was either just not used or the shooters were a bit inept. Ferdinand V, not content with being the King of Hungary, also became the Emperor of Austria in 1835. He abdicated from the Austrian throne in 1848, but he remained the King of Hungary as there was no way of abdicating from that. As a leader he was well-meaning and hopeless (I simplify things there quite a lot) but he’s an interesting character.

  • Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Eighteenth Century Map of the City)

    Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Eighteenth Century Map of the City)

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    This is a rather decadent old map of Bratislava, or Pressburg, or Pozsony, depending on how many empires you’ve been through and how particular you are about historical cartography. It shows the city sometime in the middle of the 18th century, back when people still called Austria-Hungary a good idea and maps were beautifully hand-drawn works of art rather than something you angrily pinch-zoom on while lost in a car park. It is a thing of beauty and the level of detail in the whole arrangement is high.

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    What we’ve got here is a proper Grundriss, a ground plan, the sort of thing a Habsburg official would have unfurled dramatically in a candlelit war room while saying things like “we must reinforce the bastion” and “who authorised this delightful fountain?” This large fortified lump on the left is Bratislava Castle, looking satisfyingly blocky and formidable, perched up on its hill like it’s judging the rest of the city for not being quite as symmetrical. But, the history of Bratislava has been for a long time the fortified heart and then the neighbouring castle arrangement.

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    I’m not suggesting that it’s a map to navigate by today, but the main street layout of the central fortified area hasn’t really changed that much. It’s a beautiful snapshot in time of a medieval walled city, albeit with many later redevelopments, not long before all the city walls were pulled down on the orders of Empress Maria Theresa in 1775. Although it was likely a sensible idea in terms of giving more space to the city and the threat of the Ottomans had somewhat diminished, it’s always just a little sad I think for a city to have lost its walls.

  • Bratislava – Bratislava Transport Museum (1968 Velorex)

    Bratislava – Bratislava Transport Museum (1968 Velorex)

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    This gloriously odd little machine is a Velorex from 1968, the Czechoslovakian solution to the question no one had asked “What if a car was made out of curtains?” Built from the late 1940s into the 1970s, it’s the vehicular equivalent of a determined shed because who needs crumple zones when you can just unzip your way out? This particular model is a Velorex Oskar 16/350, although the differences between versions were usually marginal and often depended on which bit of canvas hadn’t fallen off yet. The top speed was technically 85 kph with its motorcycle engine, but I suspect only achievable with a tailwind, a steep downhill slope and a complete disregard for mortality.

    What I rather liked, though, is how much design effort went into something that has the aerodynamics of a bread bin. The folded roof looks like it was borrowed from a military tent, and the door opens with all the structural confidence of a marquee flap. But I imagine that it works. It’s functional, minimal, and rather decadent in its refusal to pretend it’s anything other than a very determined mobility aid. But yet, a lot of people wanted these and demand outstripped supply for years.

    The Velorex was originally aimed at people with disabilities and what’s rather lovely is that this one has survived at all. Many were driven into the ground or abandoned when actual metal-bodied cars became affordable. But someone clearly saw enough charm in this canvas cocoon to wheel it into a museum rather than roll it quietly into a ditch. And rightly so. It’s an honest little thing, unpretentious, slightly ridiculous and all the better for it. It’s not a major exhibit here as it’s sat quietly off to the side, with the kind of modesty that suggests it knows it is playing second fiddle to the museum’s fine collection of Skodas.

  • Trier – St. Anthony’s Church

    Trier – St. Anthony’s Church

    [I originally posted this in June 2018 but have reposted it to fix some broken image links. There is now more information about this church online….]

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    This church was a little bit of a mystery, as it was marked as either not existing on Google or as closed on some other sites. TripAdvisor reviews also suggested that the church was closed outside of mass times, and so visiting it seemed rather unlikely.

    There was a sign outside saying that visits were possible at mass, but since access seemed possible I did what Jonathan would do and wandered on in. Since I didn’t see anyone during my visit, I wasn’t quite sure what their intentions were, but the doors were lodged open, so I’m sure it was meant to be open.

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    I couldn’t find out much about this church’s construction, but from the side it looked like there have been numerous extensions over the years. Indeed, I can’t really post much of interest at all about this church given the lack of information that I’ve found….

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    The beautiful nave. I’m still puzzled as to how little information there is about this church on-line, but there were two photos inside the church which show how ornate the interior was before the Second World War, and how plain it was afterwards. So, I can only assume that it suffered serious bomb damage during the conflict.

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    The rather ornate pulpit.

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    Sculptures around the walls of the nave.

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    The organ at the rear of the church.

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    These were inside the main door of the church, with most of the individuals (although not all) having died during the war. One day I’ll work out more about this church….

  • Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Stained Glass from St. Martin’s Church)

    Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Stained Glass from St. Martin’s Church)

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    The museum seems rather proud to have these four pieces of stained glass which were located in St. Martin’s Cathedral in the city. The stained glass dates from 1667 and it was donated by Johann Glitzer, a master hatter and they were originally located in the second window of the northern wall of the shrine in the Cathedral. However, in the first half of the eighteenth century they were removed as George Rafael Donner was leading a reconstruction of the Chapel of St. John the Almoner in a Baroque style. That meant out went Glitzer’s gift.

    This Baroque chapel was in itself fortunate to survive as tastes changed and the whole cathedral was made to look Gothic in the nineteenth century, but they kept the chapel’s decorative features. It’s not a major exhibit in the museum, but the quality of the stained glass is high and I do like that a decision was made to keep it rather than just chuck it in some skip (or whatever the early eighteenth century equivalent was).

  • Bratislava – Bratislava Transport Museum (Skoda Octavia)

    Bratislava – Bratislava Transport Museum (Skoda Octavia)

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    This charming red contraption is a Škoda Octavia which has Bluetooth and crumple zones, and it’s not to be confused with the modern Škoda Octavia, which has Bluetooth and crumple zones, this version has neither, but it does have style, presence and just enough horsepower to make it to the end of your street if the wind is kind. Manufactured from 1959 until 1971, this was Škoda’s eighth post-war model, hence the name ‘Octavia’ which they presumably thought sounded rather decadent. And in fairness, for something made in a command economy, it’s rather swish.

    Power came from a 1.1 or 1.2 litre engine that produced around 40 horsepower, although that’s ‘horsepower’ in the same loose way that instant coffee is ‘coffee.’ It would get up to about 110 km/h if you were being brave, had a clear road, and said your goodbyes before setting off. The rear-wheel drive setup meant that in the right conditions, by which I primarily mean snow, you could probably get a bit of sideways action, or at least an elegant pirouette into a ditch.

    This particular example is in glorious postbox red, nestled confidently between a few other Czechoslovakian classics in the museum. I rather liked it. It has that Cold War chic that’s now swung firmly into the territory of retro-cool. The kind of car you’d drive ironically until you realised you’d accidentally grown fond of it. It doesn’t whisper luxury, it mutters durability and it doesn’t demand attention, it earns it. And unlike most modern cars, it could probably survive a mild nuclear event with only cosmetic damage…..

  • Trier – Porta Nigra

    Trier – Porta Nigra

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

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    [Since writing this I came back to take a look inside the structure]

    Porta Nigra (meaning Black Gate) looks a little like a burnt out Second World War building, but is actually a Roman gate, and one of the largest in northern Europe. It was originally constructed in around the second century AD, although it fell into disuse when the Romans left.

    The name of the gate comes from the blackness of the stone, although this wasn’t original, it’s through centuries of pollution and weathering to the structure. What the Romans originally called the gate is unfortunately lost to history, and for a long period there was no certainty of when it had originally been constructed. This puzzle was only solved when recent dendro-chronological dating found that it was constructed in around 170AD.

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    Although slightly hard to imagine now, the structure was turned into a church after it had fallen into a state of disrepair. A tower was added to the building and numerous extensions were added on, with the photo above showing where the nave once was. Napoleon suppressed the church in the first few years of the nineteenth century and it was at this stage that it was returned to its Roman appearance.

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    The original entrance to the gateway and visitors can go inside, and also go onto the upper levels if they enter the attached museum. Like everything else in Trier, I had to miss this as I didn’t have enough time. The structure looked fascinating though, with its so many different usages over the centuries.

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    A view of the gate from further down the main street, it certainly dominates the local street scene.

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Sentences from the Court (including George Archer)

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Sentences from the Court (including George Archer)

    And in my series of random posts from newspapers of 200 years ago this week. This is the court report of the Norwich Mercury and the punishments issued.

    “George Thurlow, convicted of stealing a quantity of lead from Rev. W. Manning, of Diss—2 years’ hard labour in the Castle. George Archer, convicted of receiving the same—14 years’ transportation. Wm. Bayes, convicted of fowl-stealing—2 years’ hard labour in the Castle. Robt. Dawes, an old offender—7 years’ transportation. Thomas Norgate, convicted of pig-stealing—18 calendar months’ hard labour in the Castle; and Robt. Pawley, convicted of receiving two of the same pigs—14 years’ transportation. Jonathan Forder, convicted of a violent assault on a child at Langley, pleaded guilty—to be imprisoned 6 calendar months. Chas. Dunham, convicted of stealing a quantity of butter from his master—2 years’ hard labour in the Castle.”

    Note that the violent assault on a child received only six months in prison, whereas someone who received stolen lead was transported for fourteen years, although he stole it from a reverend which probably made matters worse in terms of his sentence.

    With regards to George Archer who received this stolen lead, he was sent to New South Wales on the Sesostris, which had been launched in Hull in 1818. The ship set off on 23 November 1825 and arrived in Australia on 21 March 1826, but George had died en route on 11 December 1825.

  • Trier – Galeria Kaufhof

    Trier – Galeria Kaufhof

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but I’ve reposted it to fix some broken image links]

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    OK, I don’t like shops or shopping (although I like shopping malls), but Trier was packed at lunch-time and I fancied a quiet snack. And I’ve discovered that department stores nearly always have cafes on their top floors, so off I headed….

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    The view from my table. Not quite as exciting as I had anticipated, but still rather lovely.

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    When in Bavaria it’s essential to have Black Forest Gateau! Actually, Trier is in the Rhineland, but it’s sort of near Bavaria. Anyway, I like Black Forest Gateau, and this was rather lovely.

    There’s a slight back story to this. The cake is self-service, and I was keen to have a nice photo for this blog. So I didn’t want the slice of cake to fall over and look like a mis-shapen dollop. This was particularly difficult for me and I was watched by a staff member who seemed to think I was trying to massacre their cake. Anyway, all was well.

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    The table decoration. It’s always important to set the scene.

  • Trier – Kaufland

    Trier – Kaufland

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

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    Not entirely of relevance to anything, but I was very impressed at the German supermarket Kaufland. I’ve visited their branches in Poland before, and their prices are very cheap.

    Anyway, I quickly checked some core products to compare the prices with the UK. They didn’t sell Greggs chicken bakes, but to be fair, only Greggs and Iceland sell those, so I couldn’t mark them down for that. They did though sell a vast array of different Haribos and an excellent selection of Milka bars.

    So, the cost I’m sure everyone is desperate to know…. Is anyone actually bothered? Probably not, but anyway. The Haribos were all €0.95, which is around 85p and the Milka bars were €0.65, which is just over 50p. What a bargain…. Lucky I had a bag to put my purchases in….