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  • Malta – Malta Day Four

    Malta – Malta Day Four

    Our final night in Gozo over, we meandered through the town of Nadur to get to the bus stop, passing the friendly stray cat at the accommodation. Although that wasn’t before I finished off the pizza left from the night before as a healthy little breakfast…..

    Walking through Nadur, this whole plan was coming together. Get the bus down to Mgarr and then get the ferry back to the main island. This went marvellously until it was clear that our bus was a few minutes late and then a local came to tell us that due to a road diversion, the bus would no longer stop where we were waiting. We were sceptical of this, as the bus company had a sign on the lamppost saying that services wouldn’t operate before 9am and 11am of the previous day, so it seemed unlikely they hadn’t mentioned that the bus wouldn’t run at all the next day. But, nonetheless, our bus wasn’t there and so perhaps the man was right.

    Fortunately, the walk to the harbour was only twenty minutes and we would have walked it usually but the road looked like it might be busy. The road actually looked like the above, it was closed off (hence the bus diversion), making walking it easier than anticipated. The only little problem was that there was a missing chunk of road, meaning we had to walk down a muddy hill and the mud on that bloody field was like some form of liquid earth glue. I was very brave though and managed to get to the bottom of the hill without getting too irritated.

    Liam looking over Mgarr harbour, perhaps recreating the look of the Knights of St. John as they surveyed the landscape.

    We bought a ticket at the ferry terminal, I muttered that the cafe didn’t have any green cakes (I had a lovely green cake there last year and I’d note that the green is deliberate, it wasn’t mouldy) and then back to the main island.

    The on-board snacks, the rather lovely bacon flavoured Tastees crisps and a Fanta. Living the travel dream.

    A little Asian meal for a lunch-time snack.

    Saint Julian’s Tower, and what a lovely name that is, which is a watchtower which was completed in 1658.

    The coastal area near to St. Julian’s, which is all built up, but the beach area is still attractive.

    We checked into our accommodation at Sliema and then headed into Valletta, one of my favourite cities and also the smallest capital in the European Union. Above is the Prime Minister’s parking space, located just opposite the Parliament building.

    I was going to show Liam where the saluting battery took place in the morning, only to discover that by chance it also takes place in the afternoon and we only had to wait for two minutes to see it. Fortuitous timing indeed and the noise of the cannons being set off was as loud as I remember it.

    The defences of Valletta.

    Part of the old defences of the city.

    Looking out onto the harbour.

    Looking out over Fort St. Angelo, which I visited last year. After all this walking, I felt that it would be sensible to visit a few of the city’s craft beer bars. Unfortunately, there aren’t a vast number of bars which sell craft beer in any measure, but I picked the three that I thought would be the best.

    The Beer Cave, an interesting set-up in the cellar of an historic building, with a reasonable selection of beers. Unfortunately, the music was at a ridiculous volume and since we were the only customers in there, it wasn’t somewhere that we could possibly stay at. I’m nervous about any bar that plays music so loudly in the afternoon, it suggests to me a desperation that they’re trying to create an atmosphere as the venue can’t generate its own. In this case, that fear was justified, it was an unfortunately soulless place, although I’m sure it’s more exciting in the evening.

    Liam outside Wild Honey, which was our second choice of the night. I looked upon a beer that seemed interesting in the fridge, but it was €13, so I decided against that little plan.

    Instead, the friendly barman at the bar suggested the Chocolate Cherry Yeti from the Great Divide Brewing Company, which was a perfect recommendation for me. More on this bar later on in a separate post though.

    The beer at 67 Kapitali, a restaurant which specialises in platters and craft beer that I visited last year, which was our third bar of the night. The beer, in an intriguing bottle, is the AMA Mora from Birra Amarcord.

    The food at 67 Kapitali, this sandwich was first rate. Liam got a platter which had more food than he could finish (I managed his crisps), all for a very reasonable price. Again, more on this in a separate post……

    And we’re staying at Europa Hotel in Sliema for one night, which has wonderful views over the sea. Well, our cheap room doesn’t, but the hotel does.

  • Malta – Lacto Milk Stout from Simonds Farsons

    Malta – Lacto Milk Stout from Simonds Farsons

    This milk stout, which is one of my favourite drinks, was just €1 in Greens Supermarket in Victoria, which meant two things, namely it’s worth trying at that price, but also, it’s probably awful.

    So, I got one bottle, which seemed sufficient in number. And, to be fair, it didn’t taste awful, but it wasn’t exactly packed with flavour either. Quite a weak taste, a vague taste of chocolate and apparently it’s often used in cooking. That perhaps is the best use for it…..

  • Malta – Malta Day Three

    Malta – Malta Day Three

    Day three on Malta started at the accommodation where we were the only guests, so all rather peaceful.

    Part of the breakfast laid out just for us, with the lovely accommodation owner having one of the widest selection of teas that I think I’ve ever seen. I felt a little guilty that the owner had to put all of this out just for us, but she made a fine effort and I’m pleased that she did.

    We had a little more time in Gharb, with their church having a more impressive interior than I had anticipated. I would have investigated this church a little more, but there was a lady contemplating and I didn’t want to disturb her praying.

    We got the bus into Victoria and had another look around the Citadel, including a visit to the Ditch (the defensive moat at the base) for the first time.

    Perhaps more excitingly, the air raid shelter underneath the Citadel was open which was something I had wanted to visit last year, but it was still being restored then. It’s free of charge and it’s an extensively sized site, with tens of rooms where the brave residents of Gozo would have gone for safety in the air raids during the Second World War. The signage notes that the authorities deliberately didn’t make it too pleasant in the shelters as they had problems with people going down there when there weren’t any air raids on.

    Liam in a room at the air raid shelters. We hadn’t heard from our accommodation for the evening by this stage and it was becoming evident that we weren’t going to get an e-mail from them so someone had to phone them. I can’t possibly be doing phone calls, so Liam was appointed as Head of Logistics for the day. Fortunately, that phone call resolved the accommodation issue for the day.

    Lunch was at Victoria and consisted of a rather lovely chicken pie and some green bits, all a pleasant reminder of my visit to the islands last year (the pie, not the green bits). Unfortunately, I didn’t realise that the cafe stocked some of the local craft beers, so I just went with a Fanta.

    A bridge at the park in Victoria.

    The park also had no shortage of cats.

    We decided to stay on the island of Gozo for one more night, so got the 303 bus to Nadur. The weekly bus tickets cost €21 and it’s fair to say that we’ve had good use of these over the last few days. All of the buses have been pretty much on time and not too busy, although I can imagine that this situation changes during the summer months.

    The view over the harbour area from Nadur.

    A little park between the beach and Nadur.

    After checking-in, we walked down to San Blas Beach, which was once known for its red sand, although this unfortunately got blown away a couple of years ago. It was a steep path down to the sea as well, but fortunately all paved. We thought that it looked a slightly terrifying stretch of road for a car driver, but we did see a couple of cars go all the way down to the beach area.

    Liam and another one of his selfies. The bloody younger generation. We then retraced our steps slightly and walked to Sopu Tower, a former defensive structure which has extensive views over the local coast. The wind was relatively strong, but the temperature is still moderate so the walking conditions are still pleasant.

    The evening meal was in Nadur and it’s a moderate shame my photo didn’t show this shared starter with much clarity. There was some marvellous peppered goats cheese, capers, sun dried tomatoes, bruschetta and so on, which proved so filling that I didn’t really want anything else.

    Unfortunately, I had already ordered this pizza, and didn’t get very far with it.

    More fortunately, the restaurant was able to give us boxes so that we could take the remainder of our pizzas back as an evening snack. The value that we got at this restaurant, the Fat Rabbit, was excellent and not only were the prices cheap, but the portion sizes were generous.

    We’ve booked the next night of accommodation, back on the main island, so in the morning we’ll be leaving the delightful island of Gozo on a morning ferry.

  • Malta – Gozo – Salt at the Azure Window

    Malta – Gozo – Salt at the Azure Window

    There have been salt pans created across Malta since the Roman times, a handy way to collect salt as the sun dries out the sea water. There are also no shortage of these on Gozo, some natural and some man-made. I was moderately surprised just how quickly the sun dries the water and how much salt is left during the process. There is still a commercial salt production site on Gozo where sea salt is farmed just as it has been for centuries.

    Liam sampled the salt and apparently it tastes very salty. Which is always good to know.

  • Malta – Gozo – St. Lawrence

    Malta – Gozo – St. Lawrence

    On our way back to our accommodation in Gharb, we walked through the rather lovely little village of St. Lawrence. Until 1893 this settlement was part of Gharb, but the residents then decided that they wanted their own separate community. All of the villagers had worked together to build the village church which has relics of St. Lawrence built into the foundations. The consecration took place on 21 November 1886, led by the then Bishop of Gozo Peter Pace, who then served as the Titular Archbishop of Rhodes and Bishop of Malta from 1889 until his death in 1914.

    One of the quaint little streets in what feels like quite a remote village away from it all. Well, bar all the visitors to the nearby Azure Window Ruins anyway.

    And a village information sign.

  • Malta – Gozo – Inland Sea

    Malta – Gozo – Inland Sea

    The Inland Sea is a small lake which is connected to the Mediterranean Sea through a hole in the rock, which boats can pass through for fishing and tourism purposes. Although the water is shallow towards the edge, it gets deeper quite quickly towards the base of the cliffs. The assortment of huts doesn’t make the whole arrangement look as salubrious as it perhaps could, but the scale of the rock still makes the area an intriguing one. For those who want tours of the former site of the Azure Window, this is where most of the boats leave from. Hopefully at some stage an effort is made to beautify the area and remove some of the worst little additions that have been made.

  • Malta – Gozo – Victoria – Stanley’s Chippy (New Owners)

    I don’t often go to the same place twice when away as there are so many different locations to explore. However, the food at this fish and chip shop was excellent last year (2019 review of Stanley’s…..) so I thought that Liam might like to try it.

    We got to the cafe and something seemed wrong, the menu board at the side didn’t mention the fish and chips that the shop is noted for, but it was listed on the main menu board. It was clear that there were new owners and everything felt very different. The person who I think was the new owner came up to us and immediately said that they no longer serve fish and chips, but instead are a bistro with a range of freshly cooked meals which change on a regular basis.

    I wish the owner well, but we decided to leave and risked looking like stereotypical Brits abroad….. It transpired that the cafe had only been open under its new owner for around two hours when we walked out, so I hope he wasn’t too offended. He does need to rebrand though, the Stanley’s name needs to go and the menu boards need to be replaced if he’s switching the menu to something different. Although he might well make more money from reverting to the previous menu……

    So, onwards instead to the Black Cat cafe.

  • Malta – Gozo – Victoria – Black Cat Cafe

    Malta – Gozo – Victoria – Black Cat Cafe

    The lunch stop for today was at the Black Cat Cafe, a well reviewed location in Victoria in Gozo. A number of reviews said that it was difficult to get a table as it’s so small, but fortunately we were able to secure one of the last tables. It is a small cafe though, but this all adds to the atmosphere.

    I particularly liked the coffee sign, which reads “drink coffee, do stupid things faster with more energy”.

    A quirky menu, but there were some interesting options and alongside the specials board this gave a sufficient choice without the menu being too large in scope.

    I was located near to the cake counter, so I couldn’t resist ordering the carrot cake as a starter. Liam was more sensible, he ordered the apple pie cake as a dessert, but I don’t have his patience.

    The latte came first, pleasant flavour and all was good there.

    The carrot cake, beautifully moist, flecks of carrot throughout and a sweet cream cheese, or similar as it might have been buttercream, topping. This was one of the best carrot cakes that I’ve had, very moreish.

    Slightly marred by a hair across the top, but otherwise, this was a well presented plate of food with two hot samosas, sweet potato fries, a sweet chilli sauce dip and a side salad. It was a larger sized portion than I had expected for the price and the samosas had a rich flavour and the sweet potato fries were surprisingly tasty. The salad added some texture, but it was the tomatoes which took the salad crown here with their sweetness and flavour.

    Liam’s scrambled egg with smoked salmon, which was apparently very lovely although Liam would have preferred more egg. But it’s all about the taste, and it wasn’t lacking here.

    The service was personal and attentive, although the member of staff did have to return to Liam twice as first she forgot his drinks order and then she forgot his food order. But, it’s always best to check, although I’d have thought it was easier to write it down in the first place. Anyway, the environment was relaxed and informal, so it was a comfortable lunch and was also reasonably priced. The other customers also seemed to be enjoying their experience and I’d definitely recommend a visit here.

    This is perhaps one of the most ridiculous reviews I’ve seen though:

    “Extremely courteous service, the chocolate mousse cake tasted like a piece of heaven, four stars only because there was little space (I would like to give 4.95”.

    This reviewer punished the cafe with a score of just 4/5 because it doesn’t have many seats, then left a comment saying they’d like to leave a review score of 4.95. Perhaps, rather than damaging their business, the customer could have just left a score of 5……

  • Malta – Northern Region – St. Paul’s Bay – Xemxija Café Lounge

    Malta – Northern Region – St. Paul’s Bay – Xemxija Café Lounge

    Despite staying for three weeks last year around the corner from this cafe, I never made it inside. So, since we were looking for breakfast, it was a chance to finally see inside.

    The cake selection in the cafe, a little more expensive than other similar locations that we’ve been to, but it was all well presented.

    The breakfast options weren’t entirely clear as the menus on the tables really only mentioned waffles. It was all clean and tidy inside, but there wasn’t anything tempting for breakfast unfortunately. There were though some motivational messages on the wall for anyone who fancied some morning inspiration. There’s also a seating area outside and this has views over St. Paul’s Bay, albeit with a road between the cafe and the water.

    The coffee was reasonably priced, rich in taste and most importantly of all, it came with a little biscuit. What more could anyone want for breakfast? The service was friendly and helpful, so I imagine that this is a good option for lunch or an evening meal. We were the only customers in the cafe during the time that we were there, but the environment was clean and comfortable.

    The reviews for this cafe are nearly all positive, although I did note someone didn’t like the place a couple of years ago, but added:

    “As I said, at the time I did not complain as I did not want to ruin the eve for my friend, however that is what sites like Tripadvisor are for.”

    It isn’t really, sites like TripAdvisor are becoming pointless as restaurants don’t get a chance to deal with problems at the time, or at least in private after the event if they’re alerted to an issue. Anyway, a relaxing start to the day and I’d visit here again if in the area.

  • Malta – Gozo – Azure Window Ruins

    Malta – Gozo – Azure Window Ruins

    Just photos…. This is the piece of coastline along from the ruins of the Azure Window, which was once a famous arch but it collapsed a few years ago.