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  • Aylsham Pub Day – Black Boys Inn

    Aylsham Pub Day – Black Boys Inn

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    This large former coaching inn is located at the town’s market place and was the last of the pubs that Julian and I were visiting in the day. It has been a hospitality venue since the middle of the seventeenth century and was historically a Bullards and then Watney Mann pub. I was pleased to note that the pub owners, Colchester Inns, have prepared a history of the venue for their web-site which is something that I always appreciate.

    The pub’s name has given them some publicity recently, with the owners saying they would reflect on the matter if the local community and their customers felt that they should. That seems a sensible position to me, although I’m staying out of anything too controversial in that regard. With regards to the history of the venue’s name, the pub states:

    “We believe the pub was named after King Charles II, who was nicknamed The Black Boy on account of his black hair and swarthy complexion”.

    The heritage here is undeniable, with parts of the building dating back to the late fifteenth century. It’s said that visitors to the pub have included Princess Victoria, Horatio Nelson and Daniel Defoe, which seems an interesting collection of figures to be proud of. It was a popular coaching inn during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, providing accommodation and sustenance for those travelling between Norwich and Cromer.

    One book that I recommend is “The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian Turnpike”. They note about the Black Boys:

    “The Black Boys owes its existence on this scale to the near neighbourhood of Blickling Hall, perhaps the most famous mansion in Norfolk and certainly the most beautiful and stately. Blickling is scarce a mile distant, and is so small a village that it must have been to Aylsham in general, and to the Black Boys in particular, the custom fell in those old days when the Hobarts of Blickling Hall entertained so royally.”

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    There were four different real ales available, the most we saw in the town, with the offering including Wherry from Woodfordes, Doom Bar from Sharps, Adnams Bitter and ThreeOneSix from Grain.

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    Those just wanting a drink are welcome in the venue, but it is primarily a restaurant in terms of its set-up and the aroma on entry suggested quite a strong seafood offering. The prices are towards the higher end of the scale, priced at a level that we felt was too expensive for us and that’s why we were pleased to see Stamp next door offering something a little more affordable. However, the on-line reviews are very positive, so the quality of the food offering seems high, likely meaning that they must be doing an awful lot right.

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    Julian and I were unsure about the flooring in such an historic venue, I’m wondering what’s underneath that artificial looking wood effect flooring, perhaps some original wooden floorboards? The interior was clean though with the atmosphere feeling relaxed and comfortable, everything seemed polished and organised.

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    A few heritage touches were still visible.

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    I went for the ThreeOneSix from Grain Brewery, a well kept golden ale which tasted as I expected.

    This felt like a very well run venue and the on-line reviews for food and accommodation are high. It seems to be aiming for a relatively wealthy demographic and it was busy when we visited, so they seem to be hitting that target effectively. The service was friendly and warm, with a team member coming to check at the table if we’d like to order food. There were no issues that we weren’t, but there didn’t seem to be an appropriate bar area to sit in.

    It wasn’t quite what I expected from the venue, which I thought would still have more of a pub atmosphere to it, but it was still welcoming and I liked the choice of four different real ales. The accommodation offering seems reasonably priced and I can imagine that those staying do get more of a sense of the pub’s history and heritage.

  • Aylsham Pub Day – Stamp Pizza & Bar

    Aylsham Pub Day – Stamp Pizza & Bar

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    This was an unexpected addition to our adventure around Aylsham, a venue spotted by Julian (you can see him looking at it with excitement in this photo) which was formerly the town’s Post Office. It’s not clear whether it’s named after the stamps that the Post Office once sold here or Ian Stamp, the chair of Norwich CAMRA, but I’m going with the latter as he’s becoming ever more important in the area.

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    This is the drinks menu and I’m genuinely moderately annoyed by this. Not in a negative way about the venue, but this is the best beer offering that I found in Aylsham, with a number of local craft options. I accept there’s no real ale and the other pubs provided that, but I’m from the craft beer wing of proceedings and I like to see these options. The venue presents them with clarity, clearly and although they’ve not cheap, the options are there.

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    The draft keg options, entirely agreeable to me. Nicely done I thought with the venue being clean and well presented.

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    And they’ve made clear that they’re sourcing ingredients locally. Presentationally, this was all quite marvellous, I like to know when local suppliers are used as it’s better than knowing it came from the back of a Brake’s van.

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    The wood fired pizza oven in the open kitchen. I liked the transparency here, there’s something reassuring about being able to see into where the food is being prepared. We were seated in the downstairs bar area where we could look into the kitchen, but the venue has another large dining room available. It’s possible to book a table in advance, but we were visiting on a Wednesday afternoon and it was relatively quiet.

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    The cheese on this pizza doesn’t perhaps look quite right in terms of Italian authenticity, but I’m pleased to note that it tasted absolutely delicious. The pepperoni was of a decent quality and not little thin pieces, with the blackening from the wood fired oven adding some extra flavour and texture. This was a very good pizza, I was suitably surprised and delighted. Julian ordered the charcuterie place and was pleased with the quality.

    The beer is Transatlanticism from Duration Brewing of West Acre in Norfolk. It’s a punchy 6.4% IPA with a citrus edge and a refreshing flavour. I can confirm that it complements pizza just beautifully.

    The service was attentive, polite and engaging. They forgot to bring cutlery, but they found me black pepper to cover my pizza in, a seasoning I believe essential to be dumped on in large measure with many Italian foods. I very much liked this venue, it was on-trend, welcoming and avoided being overly formulaic. If I wanted to get beer in Aylsham, my first port of call would be here and not one of the pubs in the town, something which is perhaps not entirely ideal in terms of supporting more traditional pubs. The food was excellent, the atmosphere was inviting and I do hope they succeed.

  • Aylsham Pub Day – The Unicorn

    Aylsham Pub Day – The Unicorn

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    This cavernous building is the Unicorn pub and was the second venue that we visited on our little day trip out to Aylsham. Thanks to the excellent Norfolk Pubs web-site, I know that the venue first opened in the late seventeenth century and in the nineteenth century was operated by the Coltishall Brewery and then the Weybourne Brewery. I’m not sure about the origins of the pub name, but I do have an idea which relates to how in Norfolk the three horses pulling a coach were often referred to as a unicorn. Given that this is a former coaching inn, maybe that’s how it obtained its name.

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    I had to take a photo of the three beer options over the heads of customers seated at the bar to know what options there were. Each to their own, but it’s really not ideal when customers entering a pub have to almost guess what drinks there are available and struggle to know where to stand to order them. The three options were Ghost Ship from Adnams, Encore from Lacon’s and the old reliable of Landlord from Timothy Taylor’s, so I felt that the selection was decent.

    Anyway, back to more important matters, the service was friendly and helpful, so all was well there, with the prices charged being reasonable.

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    The interior was clean and cosy, with the carpet adding to the warmth of the pub.

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    There were lots of curios around the pale, it all added positively to the general atmosphere.

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    The half pint of Landlord from Timothy Taylor tasted as expected, was well kept and at the appropriate temperature. Served in the correctly branded glass as well, very professional of them. There was also some shrubbery on the tables to add a little something to the arrangement.

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    If I’m being honest, I left not really entirely understanding this pub other than they have live music on a regular basis. We were interested in ordering food, but there were no menus visible and the food menu on the pub’s web-site is a broken link so I’m assuming they no longer do food at all. A customer posted negative feedback a few months ago saying:

    “Lots of empty tables outside we thought we would stop and have lunch as the big a frame board outside stated home made lunches. My partner went in to get a menu only to be told we do not do food. Might explain all the empty tables. I would suggest removing the a frame advertisement as well to save wasting other peoples time.”

    I like clarity on what is available, so I can understand this review and it seems one the pub could have easily avoided. I’m never quite sure why pubs don’t just offer cheese rolls or something in the afternoon if no other food is available, or something other than crisps to keep customers suitably well fed. I’d better add that I’m quite happy with crisps, but even I recognise the need for a slightly wider dietary balance.

    I’m not entirely sure what market they’re aiming for (and I accept I don’t need to, it just makes it harder to write these posts) given just how large a venue they’ve got here, but I think live music is a big driver for them so perhaps that’s their main focus. As another aside, I am slightly disappointed they have such an historic venue, but make no mention of its history on their web-site as I’m sure there must be plenty of stories for them to tell. But, back to basics and all that, the welcome was friendly, the pub was clean and there were a few real ales available so we weren’t disappointed at all with those elements.

  • Aylsham Pub Day – The Feathers

    Aylsham Pub Day – The Feathers

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    The Feathers was the first in our visit to all of the pubs in Aylsham and it has been operating since the early 1840s. I’m going to guess that it’s likely 1841, when Albert became the first Prince of Wales since the 1760s, as the Feathers name is frequently associated with the Prince of Wales so that fits time wise. But that’s just my guess, it could be complete nonsense as many of my theories are.

    Looking at old newspapers, I note that in August 1876 it was noted in the Lowestoft Journal, that bastion of journalism, that Stephen Underwood was given a spirits licence for the Feather. At the same petty sessions, John Rounce appears in court to fund his “bastard child”, the local butcher was fined as his mare had run riot in the town, a brickmaker was drunk in Hevingham and a hawker got drunk at the Stonemason’s Arms in Aylsham and refused to leave. It sounds a fun week in Aylsham.

    As was common at the time, inquests into deaths took place in pubs and the Feathers was no exception. This happened in March 1899 when an inquest into the death of Benjamin Watson was held here and it found that he hanged himself near to the Feathers after a period of illness and unemployment. I mention this as it’s easy to forget just how much history there is with these pubs and how important they are to the local community, as well as being a reminder of how tough people had it at the end of the nineteenth century with limited help available to those in pain and out of work.

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    Back to the present, there were two real ales available, the Ghost Ship from Adnams and the 6X Original Ale from Wadworth. This seemed a reasonable couple of options, they’re not seen everywhere and it’s positive to have a choice.

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    Starting off with the 6X, it was well kept and at the appropriate temperature.

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    Julian, who treats these study tours with professionalism and thoroughness that continues to inspire me, recommended that I try the Ghost Ship from Adnams. This seemed a little lively and was probably from a fresh barrel, but it tasted clean and was in good condition.

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    They’ve got a little games room to the side and I did think they could fit a nice little bar billiards table in here.

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    Despite what I consider my relative youth, Julian and I thought we might sign up. The whole concept of “never happy unless complaining” is an admirable and laudable aim.

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    Some of the rather beautiful interior decoration, although this stopped being a Bullards pub in the 1970s, then becoming Intrepreneur, Phoenix and Criterian Inns in relative quick succession following the Beer Orders in the late 1980s. That was venture capital hit pubs in a big way, something which has ultimately been rather sub-optimal in very many ways.

    Anyway, back to the pub itself, and there were a couple of locals at the bar when we entered. The relationship between the customers and the staff member at the bar here was just as a pub should be, always respectful but with a healthy dose of opprobrium as well from behind the bar. This pub seems to me like one where someone new to the area would feel welcome, my standard measure of the quality of the engagement being offered. The environment was inviting and friendly, with the pub being clean and well looked after, it felt like a safe place to be.

    Pubs like this must be tough to operate at the moment with the costs of operating a venue spiralling in seemingly all areas. The pub seems to be shrinking its opening times down a little, which might be a result of customers cutting costs, but the main thing is that the pub is still there being an important part of the local community. We didn’t investigate the beer garden, but it’s apparently of a generous size, so there’s no doubt opportunity for plenty of summer drinking to be had. This felt like a proper pub to me, I liked it.

  • Cambridge – Hopbine

    Cambridge – Hopbine

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    This is the former Hopbine pub on Fair Street in Cambridge, now a squat, but it’s one which is claiming to have transformed the building into being in a better state than when they found it. It’s operating as a community kitchen which means it’s of benefit to the local area, although it seems a shame that it is no longer operating as a pub. There was some dispute between the freeholder and the tenant who wanted a longer lease, with the current set-up clearly being sub-optimal for likely both parties. It’s not clear whether or not it will ever re-open as a pub again.

    And here’s an interesting interview with a member of the vegan squat.

  • Cambridge – Devonshire Arms

    Cambridge – Devonshire Arms

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    Emma, Bev and I were in Cambridge for the beer festival, but we arrived earlier on in the day to visit a few pubs en route to where the main event was being held on Jesus Green. I’d never visited this pub before, one of three pubs which is run by the Milton Brewery, who once operated the rather wonderful White Lion in Norwich. It isn’t usually open on weekday afternoons, but they had specially extended opening hours for the week of the beer festival.

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    There were no guest beers, but there was a comprehensive selection of Milton beers.

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    I went for the Minerva, a clean tasting and well kept golden ale. I resisted going for the Marcus Aurelius which is a 7.5% imperial stout, but that seemed a little too much for the morning.

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    The pub interior, empty as they hadn’t been long open.

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    Traditional wooden seating. The service was friendly and knowledgeable, with this being apparent when Bev asked a series of questions about what beers the pub had available.

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    The back room, or indeed the front room depending on which way the pub is entered from.

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    Some of the pub’s previously available beers, in normal circumstances they do have some guest ales.

    I enjoyed this pub and it was also a positive start to the day’s activities which were leading up to the Cambridge Beer Festival. The Internet tells me that this was a Reggae pub before Milton took it over, with its name being changed from the Midland Tavern to its current Devonshire Arms. And as a little bonus, this pub is listed in the Good Beer Guide, so that’s another one that I can tick off.

  • Norwich – City of Ale Launch Party

    Norwich – City of Ale Launch Party

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    This is the first time that I’ve been able to go to the City of Ale launch party and I was able to get a ticket to the trade session which was most exciting. It took place this year at the Waterfront and there was an excellent turnout from pubs, brewers and also from the general public in the later session.

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    The indoors bar with beer from thirty local breweries and to quote the organisers, “they are all based on our region, almost all using barley grown and malted locally, so helping carbon footprint to a minimum”. So, environmental, local and delicious. It would be wrong of me to name any particular brewery, but obviously I have to mention the marvellous Boudicca brewing.

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    The launch party is to promote the City of Ale trails, which I’ve roped various friends into completing this year. I’m going to have a good go at trying to do all of them, such is my continued desire to support the hospitality industry. Again, I don’t want to name all my favourite pubs, but I have to make a quick reference to the wonderful White Lion and its landlord Oscar.

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    I was surprised and delighted to see some keg beers from Toby’s Beers who were operating the outside bar.

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    Julian and Emma, from Boudicca, were also at the event and one of the first things that Julian suggested was getting a pizza from Luca. I agreed that this seemed a marvellous idea, it’s about having a balanced diet.

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    Clive Lewis, the MP for Norwich South, was there to give a little speech at the start of the event.

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    And here’s Oli shouting at him.

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    I very much enjoyed my six different half pints from various local brewers. I went for the Wild Steamer from Wildcraft, Hana Solo from Mr Winter’s (very agreeable), Okapi from Grain Brewery, Cold Snap from Ampersand, Another Day Done from Duration Brewing and the Golden Panther from Panther Brewery.

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    And a delight to meet Roger Protz, the great beer writer who has kindly shared a Twitter post of mine in the past and is one of my most favourite Twitter followers 🙂

    This marvellous event only takes place due to volunteers and it’s responsible for thousands of extra visits to pubs in the city. The theme this year is the Strangers, the immigrants from Flanders who came to the region to avoid persecution, something also touched upon by Clive Lewis in his comments. Thanks to an idea from Roger Protz, there’s a new partnership with Belgian brewers and these collaboration beers will be available in a number of pubs during the festival, which takes place between 25 May and 25 June 2023.

  • Gdansk – Old Gdansk Map

    Gdansk – Old Gdansk Map

    © The Trustees of the British Museum

    As a little addendum to the Gdansk trip series of posts, this is what I consider to be an interesting early map of Gdansk, or Dantizick as it was known then. Clicking on the image should make it larger, it’s a little challenging to compare this with the current layout of the city, but some of the key buildings are visible. The British Library aren’t quite sure of the date, but it’s sometime in the middle of the eighteenth century.

  • Gdansk Group Trip – Day 6 (Alarmgate and the End of the Trip)

    Gdansk Group Trip – Day 6 (Alarmgate and the End of the Trip)

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    This was the final day for us unfortunately, with five of us flying back from Gdansk Airport and Richard going separately from a VIP terminal somewhere else in Poland. The plan was easy, a taxi was booked for 06:45 and that would give us enough time to get to the airport before we needed to board. It was evident that Susanna and Bev especially would want to be early, given missedflightgate at the start of their trip, and so everything looked like it would go perfectly to plan.

    I think this sums up the situation nicely. The time difference means that the Polish times are an hour later. It’s not for me to gossip of course, but Steve, Ross and I had a long chat about the situation and it was evident that Susanna and Bev had stayed up late with a bottle of wine and then slept through their alarm. Ross and Steve were of course livid at their incompetence, but I remained calm as is clearly evident from my messages. The group were fortunate indeed to have my calm and steady approach to dealing with the trouble makers.

    Susanna and Bev stumbled out of the hotel, actually literally, only 14 minutes late which was an impressive getting ready time and shows what they’ve capable of and I will remember that for future time keeping plans. They didn’t get their cup of morning coffee, but managed to collect body, soul, mind and luggage together in some form.

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    As the adult of the group, I was put in charge of sitting in the front of the taxi. Bev annoyed the taxi driver by getting muddled up with the seatbelt and he turned to me, smiled and said “women” which was probably a little sexist, but I could see why he was annoyed given that he had been standing about with us waiting for them so his patience was already frayed.

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    Luckily the tram didn’t move from its stand….

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    Bev was inside the car arguing with the taxi driver, whilst Susanna desperately tried to wake up. I’ve deliberately not used photos of them looking too worse for wear, as that would be unfair and inappropriate. And I would never sink to those lows.

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    Bev with her two coffees, that was her way of waking up.

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    After a morning snack and drink, the two miscreants were feeling remorseful but were back on top form.

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    Boarding the Ryanair flight, which was uneventful and through which I slept most of the time. I was nervous about using Ryanair, despite not having any issues with them over my decade of using them, but their service was always fine and I have no complaints. For £50 return, I thought I received excellent value for money.

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    The border looked chaotic, but we were through in fifteen minutes.

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    Ross had rushed to get an earlier train and that’s where this blog series comes to an end. We were all back in one piece, there had been no arguments and the company was marvellous. There are lots more trips to come and I think it’s fair to say that we all had an enjoyable time, with Gdansk, Gdynia and Sopot not letting me down. Plenty of craft beer, decadent food, some football, history, culture and good company. All I have to do now is hope that none of the group take legal action against me for the content of the blog and I’ll call that a result.

  • Gdansk Group Trip – Day 5 (Hotel Artus)

    Gdansk Group Trip – Day 5 (Hotel Artus)

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    I stayed at the Hotel Artus last year and enjoyed the view from the window that I had then, with this year’s one night visit having an equally impressive outlook onto the Cathedral. Five of the group were staying there for our final night, with Steve being just around the corner, and it’s a central location which proved handy. The welcome at the hotel was friendly and the prices very reasonable given how conveniently located the building is.

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    Every time I see this I think of the Corby trouser press and Alan Partridge, but I digress…. It was a shame that I didn’t get to see the hotel for long as I got back late after accompanying Richard to a bar as he led me astray, whilst also having to get up early the next morning. The hotel supplies earplugs because of the external noise, but I very much like that sort of distraction and the sound of the bells ringing. For anyone staying, I’d recommend trying to get a view of the cathedral, it just adds to the experience for me.