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  • Athens – ibis Styles Athens Routes (Visit 1)

    Athens – ibis Styles Athens Routes (Visit 1)

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    The outside of the Ibis Styles in Athens where I was staying for one night, although I stayed there again for my last night in Athens. The staff member at reception was exceptionally friendly, explaining about the hotel and offering a positive first impression. It’s relatively centrally located and not far to walk for the Acropolis and other city centre delights.

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    The room which was an upgrade to the one that I booked. Spacious, cool, clean and with a desk.

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    It also had the benefit of having a balcony which brought about a rather pleasant breeze and I’m also one of those people who likes road noise.

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    The welcome drink and I was offered a choice of three beers, although they’re effectively all lagers. I went for the Mamos from the Athenian Brewery,  a generic but not unpleasant clean and light beer. I also like the free snacks that are provided with drinks in most locations in Athens, this is one of the little policies that I wish was followed in the UK.

    The on-line reviews are very positive and not many customers seem annoyed with them. The area is agreeable and doesn’t feel like you need a stab jacket, with the design feeling modern and on-trend. Their restaurant isn’t open at the moment other than for breakfast, although the bar is trading as usual. I didn’t have breakfast, as unfortunately the days of free breakfasts at Ibis Styles have long gone and the cost of over £12 seemed a bit high. I enjoyed the stay so much I booked to return for my final night, although matters weren’t quite as decadent on that one. But more about that another time…..

  • Athens – Hadrian’s Arch

    Athens – Hadrian’s Arch

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    I like an old gateway and this arch dates to 131AD or 132AD, so it’s done well not to fall down in the intervening period or to be used to make lime. It’s made of Pentelic marble, which is the same stone that was used to build the Parthenon. It stands 18 metres tall and it apparently, so the signage says, is a blend of Greek and Roman architectural styles. There are inscriptions which mark something of a divide between the classical Greek City founded by Theseus and the newer Roman area influenced by Hadrian. It’s not known whether it’s meant to be a rigid boundary or a symbol of the integration of Greek and Roman cultures under Hadrian’s rule. It was likely funded by the Athenians to thank Emperor Hadrian for his benefactions to the city and he’s a very lucky man to have a wall in northern England and a gate in Athens after him.

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    The side of the arch, the origins of which are inevitably a little lost to history and it’s not known who the architect was of the whole arrangement. The Wall of Haseki was built in 1778 when Athens was run by Hadji Ali Haseki and this was a wall around the city which incorporated Hadrian’s Arch. The wall was reduced to ruins during the 1826 Ottoman Siege of Athens and was promptly demolished, although the historic arch was kept.

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    It’s located next to a busy road and that’s inevitably having something of an impact on it and its colour is a little murky in places. In November 1935 it was reported that:

    “Extraordinary tumultuous scenes broke out as King George of the Hellenes, to-day, again set foot in his capital, after his long exile. Wearing evening dress, and with a monocle in his right eye, the King, his face twitching with restrained emotion, had listened at Hadrian’s Arch, on the boundary of Athens, to an address of welcome by the Mayor of Athens. He then received the keys of the city and started to walk under the arch into the capital. Immediately there was a forward rush by the crowd, who seized the King and bore him shoulder high, cheering frantically and shouting “Long live the King.”

    The cavalry were forced to clear the King’s route with drawn sabres. One man received a wound on the head from which blood streamed, and others were also hurt. Rescued from the ebullient loyalty of the crowd, the King regained his car and continued the drive to the cathedral. Strict precautions against an attack on the returning monarch had been taken at all stages in the route of the Royal drive. Hadrian’s Arch was especially strongly guarded, in view of the long wait while the Mayor of Athens and the provincial Mayors welcomed the King.

    Here, a guard of troops was drawn up and many spectators were stopped and searched for arms. Even girls in national costume were not spared. In his message to the Greek people on the occasion of his return, King George expresses deep emotion and infinite gratitude. He says he is ready to devote all his strength, his experience, and his life to the material and moral betterment of the whole people without exception. He promises absolute equality and justice for all.”

    There had been an 11 year period with no Monarch, with King George II having served just 1 year and 160 days in his role, before he was reinstated in 1935. He held the role until 1 April 1947, although he was in exile between 1941 and 1946 due to the Second World War. But, it shows the importance of Hadrian’s Arch in the national pride of the country.

  • Budapest Airport : Platinum Lounge (Schengen)

    Budapest Airport : Platinum Lounge (Schengen)

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    This lounge visit was before my flight on Wizz Air from Budapest in Hungary to Athens in Greece and it’s located near to gate A8. There was a friendly welcome when I entered, although the lounge looked very busy and I wasn’t sure if I’d get a seat when I first looked around.

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    The lounge got much quieter quite quickly as it emptied out when all of the 06:00 flights were announced.

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    I sat here initially before finding higher seating around the corner, although there was someone playing TikTok videos loudly from his phone for around half an hour that I pretended not to be annoyed about. I put my own headphones on so I couldn’t hear him. Without sounding old and grumpy, this situation about a quiet space being invaded by noise is becoming more common and I can’t say that I particularly like it. Although on a Chiltern Railways train the other day, a passenger told another passenger in the quiet coach to please shut up and I was quite impressed at his bravery. Anyway, I digress.

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    This is nearing the perfect breakfast that I can expect in a lounge, the cold meats were rich in flavour, there were cubes of roasted chicken, thousand island dressing, pasta and numerous other items. There were other displays with croissants, cereals and other similar items. I’d add that the croissants were flaky, buttery and delicious, perhaps hotel companies such as Travelodge could cast their eye over their offerings.

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    This was most welcome first thing in the morning. I didn’t look at the alcohol section as it was early morning, but there was a coffee machine and a selection of juices. It was a little odd that you have to go behind the bar area to help yourself to these things, but there is clear signage that this is how it works.

    The staff were helpful and the lounge was spotlessly clean. There were several power points available and different types of seating to suit all tastes, with no music playing other than that of a loud customer on his phone. There was only one male toilet and one female toilet which was a little inadequate at times, although a fair few lounges don’t have any provision at all and so I think we’ll all cope as my friend Julian says. The on-line reviews for this lounge are pretty terrible, which I don’t quite entirely understand but perhaps I must have visited at the right time. I was in soon after the lounge opened which would have helped with the cleanliness, but I thought that the staff were rather engaging although others don’t agree….. I was quite happy with my two hours here and I used my Priority Pass to get in for free.

  • Wizz Air (Budapest to Athens)

    Wizz Air (Budapest to Athens)

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    Getting from my hotel in Budapest required a 45 minute walk from my hotel at 04:00 in the morning and then a 40 minute journey on a bus to the airport. Due to my cutting the walk down to under 30 minutes, the immediate presence of the airport bus at its stop and the aforementioned vehicle making up time en route, I arrived at the airport around three hours before my flight which was much better going that I had expected. Indeed I was so early that my flight to Athens wasn’t on the screen…. Given the efficient nature of security I was able to have two hours in the lounge, but more of that in another post.

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    There’s the 08:20 flight visible as I was going to Athens for a five day trip. Budapest is the home of Wizz Air and it’s been a few years since I went to the Hungarian capital. But that will have to come in another riveting episode of this blog as Richard is expecting a swift write-up of Athens and I can’t be dawdling writing about Budapest.

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    I really liked Budapest Ferenc Liszt Airport, or as much as you can realistically like an airport. There was plenty of seating, plenty of power points, plenty of space and clear signage. It’s a shame that the designers of Berlin Brandenburg hadn’t had a little day trip out here, although I won’t start going on about that again. Well, other than that mention.

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    The boarding started forty minutes before the flight and the division between priority and non-priority is clear.

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    Yet again, the boarding process was efficient. I joined the boarding queue a little earlier than normal as I was in a window seat and I didn’t want to make people move after they’d just sat down. There was a Wizz Air staff member checking a lot of customer bags for size, although mine wasn’t checked. There was then a bus transfer to the aircraft and the process did annoy a few customers as they kept packing more passengers on. The bored and worn out looking driver shouted “I know there’s space, this seats 100”, although I think they’ve done the sizing in the same way that they do in lifts. The amount of times I’ve seen a small lift and it says that the maximum number of people is 6, but they must be rather thin shall we say. Anyway, I digress, the aircraft is HA-LZI, an A321 which was brought into use in late 2021 and I don’t think I’ve been on it before.

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    And safely landing in Athens. I had been randomly assigned a window seat and there was also no-one next to me, so it felt as if there was plenty of room and the aircraft was likely only 70% full. The crew were friendly and polite throughout, with the entire flight feeling calm. I bought the ticket as part of the Wizz Air All You Can Fly subscription service, so it came in at just under £9. The flight arrived 11 minutes early and as this was a Schengen to Schengen flight I didn’t have much of a wait at the airport. That meant I was safely in Athens, with Richard arriving the following day on his executive aircraft. Once again, I was suitably impressed by Wizz Air, their pricing and general efficiency.

  • Norwich – The York (Two Julians)

    Norwich – The York (Two Julians)

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    Taken during one of our perambulations, apologies that these photos were taken during the dying days of my last phone, so the quality of the imagery isn’t exactly top notch. The York is a traditional Victorian corner pub which opened in 1878 and it has been owned by breweries including Bullards, Watney Mann, Courage in the past. I didn’t go and check on this occasion, although I have done before, but there’s a large beer garden out the back which used to be a bowling green and the pub’s web-site notes that there’s now “a Pétanque pitch in the pub garden – a nod to The York bowling club who were based at The York in the early 1920s”. Incidentally, the pub has traditionally been called the York Tavern, although it’s usually shortened to just the York now.

    In 1907, the funeral of the landlord Alfred Dashwood took place, he appears regularly in newspapers and seems to have been an interesting character. He had started his career as a plumber and gas-fitter before becoming landlord here and he had built up the bowling club to be “one of the principal clubs in Norwich” which is some considerable achievement for the period (I assume, I think it’s like being the home of the best bar billiards team). He was also active in the Eaton Ward Conservative Association the Norfolk Chronicle mentioned after his funeral, but maybe that’s what happens when you become a pub landlord. I’ll check with Julian. He had been advertising for a servant (Alfred that is, not Julian) and preferred “a country girl” and he had hoped that she would be about 18. I’m not sure that publicans are best advised to advertise for that sort of thing now.

    The Westminster Gazette noted the fate of a later landlord, Albert Plane who had taken over in 1908, previously known only to the local press as someone caught refusing to admit the police to his premises. There was something of a tragedy, as the newspaper reported in May 1922:

    “Albert Plane, licensee of the York Tavern, rose to his family cups of tea, and later was found lying dead at the foot of the stairs. He had suffered from influenza and latterly was affected by the heat”.

    I’m not sure I’ll walk by the bottom of the stairs again without thinking of this.

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    Just looking back at some photos from 2021, this might be a clearer photo of outside.

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    And some old photos of outside, I can’t remember why Nathan and I were sitting outside. It was either because it was full inside or I wanted to see this large beer garden.

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    Back to modern times and the official visit from the Two Julians (we never announce in advance that we’re coming, we don’t want any red carpet quickly thrown outside for us). There were three real ales on, the Sussex Best from Harvey’s, the All Day Long from All Day Brewing Company and the Let’s Cask from All Day Brewing Company. I went for the latter option first, which was smooth with slight Twix flavours and was well kept. As can be seen, there’s often usually a fourth ale as well, but the Encore from Lacons had just run out.

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    Tom is very good at posing for photos and I will declare that I’ve gone to see the rather formidable bar talent that is Mr Saunders a few times now at the York.

    His Untappd page is a thing of beauty with his 10,294 check-ins…. Above is a photo of the day after he got his 10,000th check-in when I popped in to congratulate him. Anyway, enough about him and back to the main event of Julian and myself. The pub was spotlessly clean, with the surfaces clean, dry and not sticky, so it was a comfortable place to sit for a while.

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    I was planning to go home, but due to some confusion between Julian and I, he seemed to think we were staying out until 03:00 rather than the 19:00 that I had anticipated. However, I went along with his plan as I can be easily led. With that, the food menu appeared.

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    The York does an evening meal deal thing for £12 which includes a pint of real ale, a rather agreeable deal. The deal, of which I got the last one, was the venison sausages with braised cabbage, mash potatoes and a red onion gravy. Julian had some decadent steak option, but he’s getting quite middle class if I’m being honest ever since he’s become a senior pub executive. Anyway, the sausages were meaty and delicious, the mash was smooth and the gravy was plentiful. My crisis at the time was my phone kept losing charge, but Tom resolved that problem (just as Charlie had to resolve that problem in North Walsham – there’s a theme here that won’t continue now I have my new phone) so all was well. My second beer was the All Day Long which was malty, bitter and went well with those sausages. I must admit I thought that I had ordering halves, but Julian expressed concerned that this wasn’t sufficient to go with a meal. He’s very good at that sort of logical thinking.

    It’s a bit of an expedition for me to get to the York, but it’s brilliantly managed, welcoming and the beer is impeccably kept. I hadn’t realised about the evening meal, but I thought that it was excellent value. The service is obviously wonderful and the food/drink balance here is managed well with the pub feeling as if it’s got a friendly vibe. Definitely recommended, and go and wave at Tom as well.

  • Paignton – Talk of the Town (JD Wetherspoon)

    Paignton – Talk of the Town (JD Wetherspoon)

    I didn’t get a photo of the exterior, so I’m using one from Google Streetview instead. I hadn’t initially intended on coming here, but Ross went off on some expedition and so that gave me a chance to catch up with some things such as this riveting blog. JD Wetherspoon took this pub over in 2011 and, slightly unusually for them, they kept the name. I’ll use their version of the venue’s history:

    “The original Talk of the Town was opened in 1996 by the Elisseos family. The family’s connection with this site goes back to 1945, when Alexander Elisseos bought the Argosy Café and renamed it the Actina Café. The Actina Café occupied 46–48 Torbay Road. In 1959 Mr Elisseos bought the neighbouring Bayside Guest House at 50–52 Torbay Road and converted it into the Hamby cafeteria. Alexander’s son Perry, his daughter Mrs Sandy Purland and his wife Dorothy Elisseos combined both venues in 1995–6 to create The Talk of the Town.”

    I’ve been here three times now and this is a photo from a few weeks ago, one of the occasional times that it’s been quiet enough to take a photo without getting people in it. The team members all seemed friendly and on my most recent visit I could only find a table with heaps of empty glasses, but they were quickly and pro-actively removed and everything cleaned up.

    This is the Scrum-Half Nectar from Summerskills Brewery, just £1.09 for half a pint. It was light and malty, smooth with a slight taste of toffee. There’s normally around six real ales available here, alongside numerous craft beers and the myriad of other food and drink they sell.

    It has about average reviews on-line for a JD Wetherspoon outlet as I couldn’t help myself from checking on Google.

    “Lovely place, very busy and great vibe! Prices excellent. But whoever is cooking the curry, uses way too many spices. I ordered a vindaloo, my partner ordered the tikka masala. Both were almost inedible. Way too many chillies and hot curry spices. I’m one for very hot food, and ordered vindaloo many times, but this was over the top. No flavour, just a mouth on fire. Would definitely go back for the atmosphere and service, and other food which is usually good, but won’t order the curry again between us.”

    I’m not convinced that the chef out the back has much say in how many chillies are in the dish and I’m struggling to see how the tikka masala would have been so spicy that it was inedible….

    “Food and service excellent but all was spoiled because of a table of 2 females and 1 male and young child who never stopped crying. The adults in the end took in turns taking young child out of building walking it up and down for 5mins at a time and while this was going on the adults were still able to order on their app beer and wine. There was no consideration for other people many who were diners having to put up with constant child crying like what happened today. I have been in other wetherspoons where only 2drinks were allowed per person where children were present. Why on earth was this allowed to go on for amount of time that it did??? We come out to have drink something to eat relax and enjoy and NOT to be feeling we sat in a kinder garden and just for the record I do have children but wouldn’t expect others to put up with what’s gone on today. Plus should you really be supplying people with alcohol that are responsible for very young babies”

    Or just move table if kids are annoying… I can almost sense the Daily Mail headline of ‘ordered out of pub by staff after baby cried’ which would ensue if that was their general policy….

    “Their ramen noodles bowl is actually spaghetti noodles which is not stated on the menu which caused my girlfriend to throw up “

    Nice…

    “I’m so disappointed that on an incredibly hot day we chose to sit at the front of this establishment with our dog to enjoy some food. I understand dogs are not welcome inside or their pub gardens but to be turned away from open seating on the public footpath in front is very shameful.”

    It’s hard to see how JD Wetherspoon could be any clearer that they don’t want dogs inside or in their external seating areas, but yet some customers still think they’re exempt and then leave a 1-star review….

    “I ordered egg benedict fir breakfast . The eggs were hard so the waitress said she’d get it redone. The 2nd plate arrived and the eggs were hard ! She insisted I try again and when the 3rd plate arrived . Guess what ? The eggs were hard! I was refunded and ordered a traditional English breakfast instead and the egg was runny .. yay!”

    I’m not sure I would have had that many attempts, but I sympathise for the customer, Eggs Benedict should have a runny egg…

    This seems to be a very busy venue, even though I’ve visited at off-peak times, so it must be packed during the summer months. The price point is towards the higher end of the scale, but they don’t seem to have problems filling the tables. There are quite a few power points dotted around which was handy for charging devices, although the corridor to the toilets upstairs was a bit tight. Anyway, all rather lovely and a reliable venue to visit.

  • Torquay – Abbey Park at Night

    Torquay – Abbey Park at Night

    I thought that this looked rather lovely, it’s one of the ornamental ponds in Abbey Park, next to where the Grosvenor Hotel (as was) is located. The council showed some foresight when they bought this land, formerly part of the Torre Abbey estate, in 1924 and they paid the equivalent of over £1 million for it. Without their buying this, it’s likely that it would have been built on rather than being a little oasis of calm.

  • Paignton – Henry’s Bar

    Paignton – Henry’s Bar

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    Ross wanted to relive his youth or something similar, so we bravely walked to Paignton (and back again) from Torquay and I hadn’t given much thought to the lunch options. I had a look at Google Reviews and Henry’s Bar was very well reviewed and I was craving fish and chips, so I opted for that. I was surprised and delighted to discover that it’s the only pub in Paignton which is listed in the Good Beer Guide, so that’s another one ticked off.

    It’s not a new venue, the Torbay Express wrote an article about the new venue in November 1984:

    The cheerful bright red of Henry’s Bar heralds a new type of place to eat and drink in Torbay.

    This upmarket combination of wine bar plus traditional beer-selling free house is the idea of Mr Ray Shermon.

    “It is a really nice place for people to meet friends,” says Mr Shermon of his bar in Paignton’s Torbay Road.

    Henry’s Bar, with its wide variety of food and drink, is certainly family-fun. Mr Shermon’s wife, Gerry, daughter Maxine, 18, and James, 14, are all involved in the business.

    Even the name – Henry’s Bar, has family connotations. Henry was the name of Mrs Shermon’s late father.

    Mr Shermon is not new to the food and drink trade. He bought Henry’s Bar, then La Taverna, having sold The Patio Restaurant across the road.

    He and his wife have run La Taverna since July, but, after a total refurbishment taking three weeks, the old restaurant is unrecognisable.

    The colour, inside and out, is a welcoming red, with red cushioned seating round the walls and padded stools of various heights.

    There is a curving bar, a traditional style of carpet and attractive touches such as old-style lighting, a fan and mirrors, not to mention modern central heating.

    This, combined with unusual arches, makes for a smart but comfortable atmosphere in a bar which would be ideal as a starting place for a late night outing.

    Mr Shermon, who opens in normal pub hours, is aiming for an all-year and not just seasonal trade, and Henry’s Bar should attract people not only in the evening, but also at lunchtimes.

    “It is a place not only for youngsters, but for everybody,” says Mr Shermon.

    Henry’s Bar serves a good range of drinks, beers, a variety of wines and spirits. Mr Shermon also has a number of coolers to offer, including peach, cherry and apricot flavours.

    Food is served until half-an-hour from closing time, and there is certainly something for everyone on the menu.

    There are basket meals including chicken, pot meals ranging from curry to beef stew, and Sunday lunchtimes would be a good time to visit Henry’s Bar.”

    There was another article in 1987 which mentioned that Tetley’s Bitter was 60p a pint and Castlemaine 4X was 70p a pint, although they were special prices as there had been a refurbishment. Steak & kidney pie was available for £1.95, pizzas were from £1.75 and a jacket potato was 75p.

    Later that year there the venue was put up for sale at an asking price of £395,000 which seems high to me, I’m not sure that they’d get much more than that now, nearly 40 years later.

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    The interior which I felt had plenty of character and atmosphere. It was relatively quiet when we visited, but I can imagine that this gets very busy during the warmer summer months. There seemed to be some party of dog owners when we visited, but the pub does welcome dogs but has some sensible rules about they shouldn’t bark, they shouldn’t be on seats and they shouldn’t disturb other customers, which is all very reasonable. Not that this stops some customers complaining when they’re told not to let their dog on the seating, which is a selfish thing to do in any regard in my view, but the venue responded professionally:

    “I can only apologise for the way that this situation was handled. We do love the dogs visiting us, but you must appreciate, that not everyone does. That, coupled with the fact that we have just been re-upholstered, has made us request that all dogs “paws stay on the floors”. This signage is scattered throughout the pub, but obviously not on the front doors, as you have highlighted . I have arranged for a new sign to be placed here too.”

    This is part of the reason why companies such as JD Wetherspoon just ban dogs entirely….

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    The beer selection, I’m not much of a fan of Doom Bar from Sharp’s Brewery, but it is a sort of local beer given that it’s from Cornwall. I went for the Sea Dog from Teignmouth Brewery, it was malty and smooth, rather agreeable. There’s normally a wider range than just two real ales, but it felt sufficient for a quiet weekday afternoon in February. The service was efficient, polite and prompt, so I felt that we were made welcome.

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    The fish and chips which was served with mushy peas, all nicely presented and at the appropriate temperature. The chips were firm on the exterior and fluffy on the interior, with the tartare sauce portion being generous (this is important to me, I have a slight obsession with tartare sauce and I can’t be doing with silly little pots). The batter was crispy and had a depth of flavour and the fish itself was of a reasonable quality, so all good.

    I was very pleased with the whole arrangement given that the beer choice was reasonable, the food was rather lovely, the service was friendly and the environment was comfortable. And that was 100% of all Good Beer Guide pubs in Paignton visited in one go.

  • The Pubs of Torquay

    The Pubs of Torquay

    Well, this is the total of the pubs that we visited in Torquay itself, the eleven isn’t the total number of pubs but it does include the Good Beer Guide ones and the more notable ones. There are a couple of pubs quite close to each other, the Printers Elbow II and the Fox and Firkin, which have both unfortunately closed. On that topic, there are concerns that the Good Beer Guide listed and likely the oldest pub in the town, the Hole in the Wall, might well close soon as well.

    The Clocktower offered some really affordable drinks in a comfortable atmosphere, whilst the JD Wetherspoon had the most real ales and the lowest prices in the town. The Rabbit Hole is an attempt to do something different in a troubled part of the town, the owners have recently taken over a venue that had been shut down due to licensing concerns. But, my favourite of them all, TQ Beerworks Taphouse, which had the best craft beer selection and offered a friendly and engaging welcome. All very lovely.

    PUBS

    Apple & Parrot

    Hole in the Wall

    Devon Arms

    Yates

    TQ Beerworks Taphouse

    Viva

    Clocktower

    The Rabbit Hole

    The Green Ginger

    The Manor Inn

    Cider Press

    RESTAURANTS WITH ALCOHOL

    The Oriental Touch

    Biryani House

    Harvester

     

    CURRENTLY CLOSED

    The Fox and Firkin

    Printers Elbow II

  • Torquay – The Fox and Firkin

    Torquay – The Fox and Firkin

    This pub at the top end of Union Street closed in 2023 and has now been sold, quite cheaply by the looks of it, with the chance of it remaining a pub being slim. CAMRA note that it was known for its cheap beer and community feel, including its darts team. There’s an article about the pub closing and also an internal photo of the bar area at https://www.devonlive.com/whats-on/whats-on-news/seaside-pub-flat-up-grabs-7179424. The price that it looks like they got wasn’t a vast amount higher than the £110,000 that the pub sold for towards the end of 1998.

    As an aside, in 1998, The Torbay Express reported:

    “The Torbay Combination League has thrown out and fined First Division side Fox & Firkin £300. And they have sent Devon FA a list of 28 players registered with the Torquay pub team, which could lead to bans from playing all forms of football until the money is paid. “Hopefully it won’t come to that, but we’ve had enough of the Fox & Firkin,” said league secretary Bill Matthews. The overall fine includes £200 for being kicked out, and £100 for not paying previous fines imposed for failing to raise sides, send in match cards and telephoning results of home games.”

    My favourite bit they added was that they turned up to one match with eight player but four of those had gone home before the end of the game. It’s always a shame to lose a pub, especially as it’s very close to the Printer’s Elbow II which is also currently closed.