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  • Isle of Wight Trip – Day 1 (West Cowes to Yarmouth)

    Our first day of walking around the Isle of Wight took us from West Cowes to Yarmouth and it’s our longest day of walking this week at 16 miles.

    The day was longest for Liam, who got up at something like 3am to drive to Southampton and then get the ferry across. He arrived on the island at just after 09:00 which is rather excellent going. As usual, and like me, he’s carrying too much weight in his bag.

    The others all met up at 09:30 and we were ready to go, nine of us on this lovely adventure. I was particularly impressed with Gordon who gave me a bar of chocolate. He’s just a gentleman and he won the most generous person of the day.

    So, we set off, and irritated with Bev’s faffing wanting a group photograph I walked off. I can’t be doing all that smiling at 09:30 in the morning, it’s ridiculous. One thing that is marvellous, it’s the weather, it was sunny and bright today. Although too hot. But at least there was no rain.

    There were nine of us on the walk today, most of us with heavy bags and Gordon with his purse attached to his back. Ross was carrying a large weight and Clive looked like he was in the army. But I think we looked brave between us. Actually, with me in the front, I think that we looked quite rugged and majestic.

    I decided, as the natural born leader on this trip, to rush everyone around to the first pub. So we walked around Yarmouth, with Katherine offering some really useful facts about the island from local knowledge that I didn’t know. Everyone was lovely company, it’s another nice group, although it’s a bit gossipy. On the speed of the walk, it was a good 3.2 mph I think, fast enough to get the distance knocked out, but without being too onerous.

    We went through a town called Gurnard shortly after Yarmouth, and that’s really where we lost the coastal views for a while. Susanna taught me a lovely phrase, “low level irritation with people” and I plan to use it frequently. Being quite intolerant, I’m often at low level irritation level. This happens from time to time on aircraft where people irritate me. Bev will understand.

    We went near a small town called Northwood, for those who have a ridiculously good knowledge of the Inbetweeners, it wasn’t as rough as that one. The walk then took us into Thorness Bay Holiday Park and there was a conveniently placed, well, convenience store there. Gordon bought himself some sweets, then Clive was so tempted he bought some sweets. Ross bought himself some sausage rolls and I had a little rest.

    We got to our first pub, the Sportman’s Rest in Porchfield, at just before midday and even though they weren’t due to be open, they were. I rushed into the bar to order and I have to say, the beer selection was again not to my taste. But the staff were friendly and the beer I went for was acceptable. It was a nice location and we sat outside in the sun whilst Bev complained about something, I think it was her sausage rolls.

    There was some confusion over the food order, but, in short, I got some free chips. What a most lovely bargain. The others had their lunches and we were ready to set off for our next pub. But not before Susanna and Bev had chatted to us about moths. Gordon called them mad. I didn’t disagree on this occasion.

    Mind you, Gordon talks about mad, but he tried to fashion himself some implements out of wood to eat his meal with. He didn’t think he use the knives and forks on the table. He’d have been very good as a hunter gatherer, he has a very creative mind.

    One nice thing about the pub is that Gordon and Bev had a little play fight. I love taking the elderly out for the day as it gets them out of their homes and they pretend they’re children again. Bev got sun cream on her nose and Bev made fun of Gordon’s head. Children, like I say….

    The next stop on our route was Newtown Old Town Hall, which is a confusing sentence to write. This is a National Trust property and I have something to say about the prices, they’re just too high for families. This property had about ten minutes worth of visit to it and the National Trust shouldn’t in my view be charging families a fair chunk over £10. They’re meant to be the custodians of our nation’s future, not the organisation which sets out to deter families.

    Fortunately we had a solution for me though, Liam is a member of the National Trust and so he went in with my camera to take photos. Saved me paying. It meant he got a history of the building that he probably wasn’t interested in whilst I waited outside missing out on that (I’m not paying £4.20 to get in, I’m not made of money). But I got the photos. Although one day I’ll get a life membership of the National Trust so I can visit this places. Perhaps in a few years.

    The New Inn at Shalfeet was our next pub stop, an award winning food pub that has just reopened. I’d say here that the pub was fine, the staff were polite and it was clean and food being served looked decent. However, I just didn’t like it. The beer choices were again not for me and I’m becoming frustrated at how a few pubs are making no effort to engage with craft beer or going beyond the generic real ale options. Also, the price for the soft drinks I ordered was way too high. Frankly, I didn’t like the pub, it wasn’t for me, but perhaps it isn’t catering for people like me. Oh, and they had a spelling mistake on the menu. I know I make spelling mistakes, but I was just in that mood to find one.

    Over the road was Shalfeet Church and Susanna, Katherine, Gordon, Susan and myself probably spent too much time in there. The heavily fortified tower was a joy to behold, a rare site to be attached to a church. On this, and numerous other matters, more will come when I write some further posts on these historic sites. Susanna, as ever, had some useful observations about the church, and it did feel packed with history. And about the pubs we visited, I have more to say about those. Actually, I always have a lot to say, but such is life….

    Now, I can’t say too much about this subject, as Gordon has a very expensive legal team watching every word on this blog. But Gordon’s groin is giving him some grief. If he turns round then he yelps. There’s a consensus that he’s exaggerating it, but since he gave me some chocolate earlier, I refuse to believe that. He’s so brave.

    Then it was the walk into Yarmouth and I gave permission to Bev to have a little swim. I am the guardian of the permissions on this, as I don’t want Bev jumping in the water willy nilly. She faffed about in it and then commented on how wet she was. So very brave for going in the sea though, it didn’t look very warm.

    About thirty minutes later Bev tells everyone that she has left her glasses on the beach. I tried to do a deal where she bought Liam some drinks and he’d run back for him. Well, walk, he can’t run very far. I’d have gone back with him if he shared those drinks, but Bev decided she’d just buy some more glasses. Very much the Gordon approach if I’m being honest.

    As we carried on, Ross decided to have a little laugh at Gordon’s purse and Gordon decided to suggest that Bev ate too much. She was livid. Actually, she wasn’t at all, she just plotted revenge. I worry about Bev the most when she’s being quiet and plotting revenge.

    Ross was fed up with his feet at this point and I think we should have been carrying more water. I had enough, although only just, but as a group we should have had more. The heat did catch us by surprise, it was a sunny and warm day often with few clouds in the sky.

    We then got to the hotel in Yarmouth, and, that’s all I’m going to write about the evening. Highly unusually, I’m redacting what happened. I say redacted, but I haven’t written it to censor, but it’s one of my favourite words. More on the evening of our first night will come later on, but for the moment, we’re looking forwards to a shorter day tomorrow, at just eight miles.

  • Isle of Wight Trip – Day 1 (Yarmouth – Sunset)

    The sun sets over Yarmouth (the Isle of Wight one, not the one in Norfolk).

  • Isle of Wight Trip – Day 0 (Cowes – Holy Trinity Church)

    Sadly, Holy Trinity Church in Cowes was locked when I tried to visit, so I wasn’t able to see inside. However, it was built in 1832 and was designed by Benjamin Bramble using primarily Isle of Wight yellow brick and was based on the same designs which were used for St. Thomas’s Church in Ryde. The church was funded by Sarah Goodwin and intriguingly she did this to provide employment for her son-in-law the Reverend Maximillian Geneste. How rather noble…

    The church was formally consecrated on 21 June 1832 by the Rt. Reverend, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese. There was a collection held after the service which was donated to the Funds of the County Female Penitentiary. I liked how the church was advertising for a new curate in 1867 and they wanted “an active, earnest fair preacher, of no extreme views”.

    A view of the tower which has extensive views out to sea, so it’s no surprise that there is a strong connection with the maritime community. In the garden of the church there is a memorial to those killed in the Fastnet Race in 1979, when fifteen yachtsmen died along with another four people who were watching the event from a yacht.

    It was mildly disappointing that I couldn’t get to see inside, but maybe another time.

  • Isle of Wight Trip – Day 0 (Cowes – Cowes Ale House)

    The Cowes Ale House, the sister pub of the Newport Ale House, which has a marvellous concept of a welcoming environment, bar snacks, no jukebox and a community feel. A few years ago this was a clothes shop and the conversion is a positive move, this trend of bringing shops back into use as small pubs is one I’d like to see even more of. The staff member at the bar was helpful and warm, so the environment was welcoming.

    The Good Beer Guide said to expect the occasional mild and porter. So I did. And they didn’t have any. The nearest to a dark beer they had was the Robinsons Trooper, which is linked to Bruce Dickinson from Iron Maiden. The beer was well kept and at the appropriate temperature, which was good as it was in a cooling jacket and these are sometimes more effective than others.

    The beer tasted a bit bland to me, no real strong flavours or depths of taste and I couldn’t get the subtle hint of lemon.

    Some of the pump clips from past beers, and there are some interesting past selections, not least the Ernie’s Milk Stout. The prices of the beer were reasonable, mainly coming in at just under £4 per pint.

    The pub wasn’t particularly busy when we went in on a Saturday afternoon, but there was a welcoming and comfortable feel to the pub. I do really like the whole concept of this pub and the environment feels just right for a relaxed drink. Unfortunately for me and this visit the beer selection didn’t have anything to interest me.

  • Isle of Wight Trip – Day 0 (The Train)

    Our journey from Norwich to Southampton started at 05:37 and Gordon was there and he came bearing sweets, so very generous of him. I didn’t really doubt him though at any time on this. A longer than usual train took us to Cambridge, departing from Platform 6, and it wasn’t particularly busy.

    The amount of shrubbery neatly placed along the track at Cambridge railway station did give me the impression that the planting was deliberate. It’s certainly unusual to have so much foliage between tracks.

    The train arrived safely into London King’s Cross from Cambridge and it wasn’t as busy as I had been anticipating. It was the fast service from Cambridge which didn’t stop between there and the capital, with the train being relatively busy but not packed.

    In order to cross London, we got a chance to go on my favourite underground line (everyone has a favourite underground line don’t they?), the Waterloo and City.

    Getting off the Waterloo and City Line, nearly always a leisurely and comfortable service outside of commuting hours.

    The former Eurostar terminal at Waterloo station. After getting a Boots meal deal (living the dream….) I was able to get us a four-person table seat on the South-West Trains service to Southampton. The train was clean and functional, although there was a lack of an at seat trolley service, which Gordon was slightly devastated about.

    We arrived in Southampton dead on time at 10:22, which is impressive given that we had three trains and two underground trains to navigate. The entire ticket price was just over £20, which I thought was excellent value. I was also pleased that there were working power points on all of the three trains, meaning I was always fully charged and ready to go. How lovely.

  • Isle of Wight Trip – Coast Path

    The walk this week is the Isle of Wight coastal path, a total of around 70 miles, so one of the shortest long distance walks that we’ve done.

    9/6/19: Cowes-Yarmouth 16 miles
    10/6/19: Yarmouth-Totland 8 miles
    11/6/19: Totland-Chale 13 miles
    12/6/19: Chale-Sandown 12 miles
    13/6/19: Sandown-Ryde 12 miles
    14/6/19: Ryde-Cowes 10 miles

  • Isle of Wight Trip – And So it Begins

    And it’s just gone 4am in the morning, which means that it’s the beginning of the Hike Norfolk trip walking around the Isle of Wight. The adventure today is getting the train from Norwich to Cambridge, then from Cambridge to London, then crossing London, then getting the train from London to Southampton and then getting the ferry from Southampton to West Cowes. So, a lovely easy day.

    Why a 4am start? Well, there was the choice between getting the £22 rail ticket to get us to Southampton (leaving at 05:30) or spending twice as much and getting a slightly later one. Much as a slightly later one would have been rather more comfortable, economy wins out….

  • North Walsham – Supermarket

    I’m sure my memory must be fading…. There’s a photo (which is likely copyright, so I’ll just link to it) at:

    https://www.northwalshamarchive.co.uk/1/archive/770px/the-precinct-1970s.jpg

    Which shows that there were two supermarkets in the old Ship Yard, an International and a Fine Fare. Although I thought the Fine Fare was where the International supermarket was in the photo, which I thought then moved to what is now Roy’s and which then in turn became Gateway which in turn became Somerfields, who then built a store out of the town centre which is now Sainsbury’s.

    However, the confusion I’ve caused myself might be resolved as I’ve found out that International was bought out by Fine Fare in 1984, and rebranded as Gateway in 1988. So perhaps the Fine Fare that I don’t remember being there simply moved into the International store at that time……

    Anyway, I can’t imagine my memories of North Walsham supermarkets are of much interest to anyone, but part of the reason I posted is because the web-site I linked to above has some marvellous photos of the town.

  • North Walsham – Reeves Lane (The Dog)

    Still on the theme of pubs in North Walsham in 1839, the Dog pub (also known for a time as the Dog Inn) was in operation from the late eighteenth century until the late nineteenth century. For part of its time it was run by the Coltishall Brewery which at one point in the mid nineteenth century operated nearly sixty pubs in the county.

    By 1892, the Dog was operated by Morgans Brewery, who were trying to let the pub out. At the time Morgans operated 600 pubs and they remained trading until 1961 when they were taken out by Bullards and Steward & Patteson. There is no further mention I can find of the pub operating after 1892, so perhaps Morgans couldn’t find a new tenant and it ceased trading.

    After the pub fell out of use the building became used as Craske’s fish and chip shop. If a building can’t be used as a pub, then this seems a perfectly acceptable alternative to me.

    What was known as Dog Yard, I assume because of the pub, became Reeve’s Court when the council approved the demolition of some old and run down buildings with an anonymous and unexciting new one. I’m sure that they were more suitable and comfortable in which to live, but visually it’s not great. I can’t quite see from the map exactly where the Dog pub was, but it seems to be under the housing development that is known as Reeve’s Court.

  • North Walsham – Market Street / Bear Street (The Bear Pub)

    Again carrying on my theme of pubs now disappeared in North Walsham, the Bear was once located on Bear Street, now better known as Market Street.

    It’s possible that the name of the pub comes from a time of bear baiting, although I’m unsure how prevalent that would have been in the market town of North Walsham. The pub was trading from the late eighteenth century and it finally closed in 1967 when Bullards, the owner, decided that it was uneconomic.

    For anyone in the town on Thursday 10 October 1850, they could have gone to watch the auction performed by William Pope auctioneers. It was the property of William Youard who was the landlord leaving the pub and for sale was “all the household furniture, china, glass and sociable” belonging to him. There was an indication of the scale of the property, as it was noted that there was “a commercial room, a dining room, an assembly room, sleeping rooms, a porter room, a bar, store room, kitchen, wash-house and yard”.

    In 1872 the pub was available to be let and it was noted by the agent that “as the contemplated railroad from Norwich to Cromer will pass very near this house, it cannot fail to derive great benefit from it”.