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  • Berlin Trip : House of Wannsee (Part 3)

    Berlin Trip : House of Wannsee (Part 3)

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    The museum opened in January 1992 on the 50th anniversary of the meeting, although the media noted that the political situation was still complex.

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    The whole process of opening a museum had been long and complex, with the plan to use this property being controversial. Joseph Wulf, a survivor of Auschwitz and a prominent historian, was one of the proponents of the house being used and when the inept Klaus Schütz made politically explosive comments on the matter, it led to Wulf having to have protection for his own safety. Wulf committed suicide in 1974, saddened by how so many people involved in the Second World War were still free and held unaccountable for their actions, living almost normal lives.

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    After the Second World War, the building was used as a school and Wulf would have hopefully been delighted that his wish for the building to be used as a museum came to pass.

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    The exterior of the building.

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    If Heydrich hadn’t had his meeting here, or even if the single document that was found with the details of that meeting, then this would likely be a rather lovely country house with views over the lake today, the details of what happened in 1942 would have been unknown.

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    The exterior is calm and pristine.

    The attendees of the fateful meeting were:

    SS and Police Officials:

    • Reinhard Heydrich: Chief of the Reich Main Security Office (RSHA), chaired the meeting.
    • Heinrich Müller: Chief of the Gestapo (Secret State Police).
    • Adolf Eichmann: Head of the Jewish Affairs office, responsible for the logistics of deportation.
    • Eberhard Schöngarth: Commander of the Security Police in the General Government (occupied Poland).
    • Rudolf Lange: Commander of Einsatzkommando 2, responsible for mass killings in Latvia.
    • Otto Hofmann: Chief of the SS Race and Settlement Main Office.

    Government Representatives:

    • Roland Freisler: State Secretary in the Ministry of Justice.
    • Wilhelm Kritzinger: Ministerial Director in the Reich Chancellery.
    • Alfred Meyer: State Secretary in the Ministry for the Occupied Eastern Territories.
    • Georg Leibbrandt: Ministerial Director in the Ministry for the Occupied Eastern Territories.
    • Martin Luther: Undersecretary in the Foreign Office.
    • Wilhelm Stuckart: State Secretary in the Ministry of the Interior.
    • Erich Neumann: State Secretary in the Office of the Four Year Plan.
    • Josef Bühler: State Secretary in the Office of the Government of the General Government.

    Other:

    • Gerhard Klopfer: Permanent Secretary in the Nazi Party Chancellery.

    They were mostly younger men, there were only two men over fifty and no women. Heydrich died during the war, as did Lange, with Müller disappearing in Berlin in 1945 and so likely suicide or killed in action. Schöngarth was executed in 1946 for killing an allied airman, whilst Hofmann was sentenced to 25 years in prison and served 10 years. Stuckart was sentenced to three years in prison and died in 1953, whilst Klopfer was arrested but died due to lack of evidence. Neumann was held in custody and died in 1951, whilst Alfred Meyer committed suicide in 1945. Luther was arrested by the Gestapo for plotting against Hitler and died in custody in 1945, whilst Eichmann escaped to Argentina but was executed in Israel in 1962. Kritzinger was arrested but released and died in 1947, whilst Leibbrandt was sentenced to three years in prison and lived until 1982. Bühler was executed in Poland in 1948 for crimes against humanity and Friesler was killed in an allied air raid in 1945. In the main, the collapse of the German regime brought nearly all of these figures down and led to early deaths or looking over their shoulders after the war.

    I can’t offer much commentary on the entire Holocaust, but at the time of this meeting it looked like Germany might well win the war and that these men were seeing themselves as doing a job that needed doing whilst ensuring they and their families were well looked after. Most of these men were already senior officials that had navigated the politics of the Nazi Party so they were likely to be able to continue doing that. As for the millions they killed, I can only assume they just pictured them as enemies of the state, deserving of death as much as soldiers from other countries who were fighting Germany. By the time of this conference, it was all too late, none of those attending could really individually stop all that was happening, they were just facilitators in a sprawling officialdom. The death camps must have felt a long way from Wannsee, just numbers of pieces of paper, all just too easy to say yes to all the decisions that Heydrich made to kill millions. Hannah Arendt published a book on Eichmann titled “A Report on the Banality of Evil”, referring to how he declared himself as a functionary of the state and how he saw the German people starting to agree more with this campaign of terror and murder, but that simply made his morally responsibility further lessened.

    But many of these attendees were respected by their juniors or, at least, their views were respected. If any of them had started to question Heydrich, then that would have had a trickle-down effect of more people in the German war machine starting to question the Holocaust. There is evidence of this in Denmark, where most Jews were saved because not only did the Danish population questions the Nazis, so did the junior members of the military and then even more senior ones. The orders came down to kill and arrest Jews, but the levers of power didn’t work, the orders were frequently ignored. And that could have happened with Wannsee, there seems to have still been a chance to have lessened the Holocaust even if the general direction was unstoppable, there was opportunity for any of those present to try to redefine what was happening. Anyway, I digress with my random thoughts, but I’m glad I went to Wannsee and to see where such a fateful decision was made, it’s a calm environment and the displays were thoughtfully and carefully laid out.

  • Berlin Trip : House of Wannsee (Part 2)

    Berlin Trip : House of Wannsee (Part 2)

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    One of the true German heroes, Richard Stern (1899-1967) who was a German businessman who is notable for his public resistance against the Nazi boycott of Jewish businesses in the 1930s. He issued the leaflet on the right-hand side of the above photo which referred to:

    – 65 million Germans being asked to treat Jews as second-class citizens
    – 12,000 fallen German front-line soldiers were Jewish
    – Calling for solidarity to the Jewish community

    He himself was a First World War veteran himself and in the image on the left, he was wearing his Iron Cross whilst a young Nazi stands by the entrance to his shop. The photo was taken on 1 April 1933 outside his bedding store in Cologne. Stern’s strength of character is immense, he stayed in Germany for as long as he could before he needed to emigrate to the United States in 1939, just before the outbreak of the Second World War. He then, as a German, joined the US army and in 1944 was awarded the Silver Star, the third highest military decoration that can be granted. It also transpired that in 1942, there had been a drive to collect metal for the war effort and Stern put in his Iron Cross.

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    The highly complex system used by the German Civil Service to work out if someone was a Jew.

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    This is a photo of Julius Wolff, a young Jewish man, and Christine Neemann, his non-Jewish fiancé who were both paraded around Norden in Germany on 22 July 1935 because of their relationship. Wolff was forced to wear a sign that says “I am a race defiler” (“Ich bin ein Rasseschänder”).

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    Back to the museum, this is the room where the meeting took place with a side-room visible on the right.

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    The side-room.

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    The documents from the meeting were meant to be destroyed and they all were with one exception.

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    The number of Jews in various parts of German territory. I understand that these were the numbers they wanted to reduce by their Final Solution plans. The exception I mentioned was that one set of documents was found almost by chance in 1947 by Robert Kempner, a U.S. prosecutor at the Nuremberg Trials. Without that find, I’m not sure that this property would now be a museum as these were the documents that revealed information about the Final Solution.

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    This photo is from 19 April 1945 when the Nazi documents stored by the Foreign Office were seized by US troops.

  • Berlin Trip : House of Wannsee (Part 1)

    Berlin Trip : House of Wannsee (Part 1)

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    I’ve wanted to visit this building for some time, but didn’t get a chance on my previous trips to Berlin. It took longer than I would have liked to get there due to parts of the rail network being closed, but I finally got to the nearby rail station and then walked the 40 minutes to this historically important site.

    As an introduction, the House of Wannsee was the site of the Wannsee Conference on 20 January 1942. During this meeting, high-ranking Nazi officials discussed and coordinated the implementation of the ‘Final Solution to the Jewish Question’ which was their plan for the genocide of the Jewish people (and others, but the main focus was Jews). The conference was significant because it formalised the plans for the systematic, industrialised murder of Jews across Nazi-occupied Europe. It brought together various Government agencies and organisations involved in the persecution and murder of Jews, ensuring their cooperation and establishing a framework for the genocide.

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    The Wannsee name comes from the lake that the house sits on the edge of, a tranquil and beautiful setting. The villa was built in 1914 by a wealthy pharmaceutical manufacturer named Ernst Marlier and it was designed as a decadent private residence, reflecting the affluence of the time. The financial situation changed for Marlier and he then sold the property to Friedrich Minoux, an industrialist with right-wing leanings.

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    I stood here for a while imagining Reinhard Heydrich arriving in his chauffeur driven car.

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    A plan of the property, the room where the conference was held is number 3.

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    All the documents at the museum are copies of originals. This one is a letter from Heydrich to Martin Luther, an Under-Secretary in the Foreign Office, sent on 29 November 1941. It delayed the planned meeting that had originally been scheduled for December, and changed the location to Wannsee.

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    In 1941, the Nazis had taken the building over, using it as a guest house for the Security police and Security Service of the SS. This is a bulletin from the organisation informing recipients about the opening of the guest house and informing leading members of the SS and the police that they can stay overnight when coming to Berlin on business matters. The document also talks about the modern amenities, the beautiful location, the good food and the comradely interaction.

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    This is a campaign poster from the German National People’s Party (DNVP) which was anti-socialist, anti-semitic and racist. What lovely people….. They were quite an important party that don’t get mentioned perhaps as much as they should in terms of history, as they were the largest right-wing party before the Nazis rose to power. They fell in behind the Nazis and initially they took senior roles within Hitler’s administration, but they soon found themselves shut out. Some of them opposed Hitler with some force, but that was generally more because they preferred their own particular brand of hatred to his.

  • Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 6)

    Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 6)

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    This was the final part of the tour, which are the two floors of rooms which are known as the ‘film bunker’ where film and photographs were stored during the Nazi regime.

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    It’s not known quite what happened here other than there was a substantial fire which destroyed everything left in them. Looking at the damage done, this was a fire of some considerable size to damage the reinforced walls and ceilings like this. Some accounts say that the Germans did this to destroy evidence and others say that the Russians did it by mistake when trying to open the locked rooms, although I don’t know either way, but the former seems most likely to me. Either way, the Russians decided that they wouldn’t do anything with these rooms after the Second World War and that’s why they’re the same now as in 1945. The joys of a building that’s so large that they could just leave bits of it untouched.

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    The graffiti is mostly recent, from urban explorers.

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    It feels sub-optimal, although in about fifty years this more modern graffiti will become part of the historical story.

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    There are two identical floors with a number of rooms which look like prison cells.

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    The rooms are located downstairs in one of the lowest levels of the entire airport complex.

    That was the end of the tour and I mentioned earlier that it was one of the best that I’ve ever been on. The Dutch guide was humorous and knowledgeable, with plenty of different things to see and I was delighted that politics, history and travel were all intertwined here. The guide mentioned that parts of the building was rented out, but there are some structural issues that need expensive fixes and it will be a long time until more of the complex is rented out and used. He also mentioned that the electricity bill here is substantial and I admired the guide’s attention to detail in ensuring that the lights were always turned off after we left a room. I hope that they leave the sections alone that I visited on the tour, it’s a wonderful time capsule of some many parts of twentieth century Berlin. As for the tour, definitely recommended and it only cost around £14.

  • Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 5)

    Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 5)

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    Templehof Airport was used by the US military between 1945 and 1994 and it’s fair to say that they’ve left quite a legacy in the little things that they added, not least a baseball court.

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    I wonder what the Nazi building designers would have thought about this little arrangement.

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    There are plenty of empty spaces, they use areas such as this part of the tour now.

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    Now mostly removed, but this is where the bowling lanes were located. There were numerous other games played in these rooms, along with a gym, showers, squash courts and all manner of other bits and pieces.

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    A building plan, but I’m not sure from which year.

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    We were shown some of the former offices used by the army. This one had a copper roof, although it’s not visible in my photo as the ceiling tiles are in the way. It’s a sprawling complex, it was hard during the tour to really understand how it all fit together as the building was just so large. The US military left the airport in August 1994 after having been in the city for 49 years and as with much of the rest of the building, it’s pretty much the same 30 years on.

  • Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 4)

    Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 4)

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    I ended my last post with this photo, which is the former entrance area of the airport for passengers. The building wasn’t designed like this by the Nazis, it was meant to be a more impressive and imposing entrance for passengers with higher ceilings and an attempt to make it fill people with awe as they entered.

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    The entrance area was once much higher and this is the Nazi design which was once visible to passengers entering the airport. The floor was that added during the process of ‘denazification’ after the Second World War.

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    It’s badly damaged, but it’s still there.

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    The hole punched in the wall to allow modern day access.

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    Even to my untrained architect’s eye, I can see there’s some damage here.

    I hadn’t realised that the Nazi designed building was constructed with what is known as monumentalism architecture, something more common in the early twentieth century. This was the plan for the exterior of the building, although the interior was designed with a more modernist design style plan.

  • Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 3)

    Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 3)

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    The next part of the tour around Tempelhof took us to what I considered to be the heart of the building, the old check-in area. It’s preserved pretty much as it was when it closed to passengers on 30 October 2008.

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    Absolutely no imagination is needed to picture this as as working airport as it still looks ready for action.

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    The signage to the restaurant which was located on the first floor.

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    Inside the restaurant.

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    The airport’s bar.

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    The arrivals board.

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    The baggage belt.

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    Empty retail units.

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    Check-in desks.

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    The display showing how much bags weighed.

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    I’m not sure I understand this as Air Bourbon did’t last long, it had one plane and it didn’t routinely fly from Berlin.

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    The empty terminal. I very much enjoyed this part of the tour as it’s rare for an airport to be mothballed like this, stuff is usually just ripped out and buildings demolished.

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    The guide mentioned that the floor was designed with a stone floor, but for cleaning purposes a lino type flooring was put in after the building was ‘denazified’, although more on that in a later post. The stone floor has remained in the entrance area.

  • Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 2)

    Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 2)

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    The next part of the tour (previous part here) went to the more hidden areas of the airport past this pump thing. I have no idea what it is. I asked AI and I was pleased to see that it didn’t much differ, noting that it was a “grey metal device: This could be a pump, ventilation system, or some other kind of machinery.” That’ll do.

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    The airport was built at a time when the Germans secretly knew that buildings needed to have safe areas in case of attack, with this room being one fitted out with calming imagery for children. The Dutch guide did explain the wording, which went across the room, and he said that it was typical German humour which no-one else found funny. AI tells me that this reads:

    “Hey! – he thinks – that’s great!
    and loosens the lid a bit.”

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    Never used during the war, but this was an emergency exit. The floor levels are confusing, I felt low down in the building at this point as we had entered a bunker area, but because the airport was built on numerous levels, it was still higher than the runway.

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    Some old corridors.

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    It wasn’t quite clear what rooms like this were built for, but this area of the airport was attacked and damaged by the RAF during the Second World War.

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    The guide mentioned that the red marks on the stone were fires caused by bombings. It’s some grand architecture, but more on that in a later post.

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    Soviet graffiti from when their soldiers took over the building. Back to AI (yes, I ask it a lot of questions), which says it means “sore throat”, although I’m not entirely sure what relevance that has here. The Soviets wanted to capture Tempelhof Airport to stop senior Nazis trying to flee the country, seizing it on 26 April 1945 after some fierce fighting. They didn’t have it long, it was put under the United States Army sector on 2 July 1945.

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    Then we headed back towards what was the public area of the terminal.

  • Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 1)

    Berlin Trip : Berlin Tempelhof Airport Tour (Part 1)

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    This transpired to be one of the most interesting tours that I’ve been on, a two-hour guided tour around the former Templehof Airport. It’s a complex site and the tour consisted of seeing the old airport terminal, the airside area, some of the remaining Nazi architectural elements, the US military base and the location of the Nazi secret storage. Hence why it might take me a while to plough through all the photos that I took, so there might be a few posts for my two loyal blog readers.

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    But we’ll start at the entrance as that seems sensible. The site is used for numerous purposes now, although the airport terminal building itself is still as it was left when it closed in 2008. I arrived a little early for the tour, although friends won’t be surprised at that, but there’s a little museum to look at whilst waiting.

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    This photo shows the scale of the site.

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    A photo of the terminal on 1 September 1975 and the tour took in this hall.

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    The Dutch guide was excellent and full of enthusiasm. Whilst walking to the next stage on the tour, he mentioned that Hitler had a private entrance to the airport and that’s in the centre of this photo.

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    One of the airside corridors. It doesn’t take much imagination to picture how this would have looked full of travellers.

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    Out on the tarmac and my friend Liam would like this, he used to specialise in concrete pours of runways (or whatever the technical term is).

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    The structure is ridiculously large and was at the time of its construction one of the world’s top twenty largest buildings. It’s one of the few airports that was designed to support massive growth in airline travel, although the Nazis had many grand plans. It was built to be symmetrical, but that didn’t quite come to pass. It was designed by the architect Ernst Sagebiel (1892-1970) and construction took place between 1936 and 1941, but some elements weren’t finished and some of the plans were changed. Norman Foster, who led the design for the reopened Reichstag, referred to it as “the mother of all airports”.

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    The airport wasn’t built with long runways, as they weren’t much needed at the time, and this limitation is one of the reasons that its growth was limited later on.

    It wasn’t the only airport used during the Berlin Airlift after the Second World War, but it was perhaps the most important.

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    The old passport control signage.

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    The baggage system is all still there as part of the attempts to preserve the past. It wasn’t entirely clear to me what the long-term plan is for all of this, but I hope that they keep it.

  • Berlin Trip : Foodfactory Berlin Cube – Sia Thai

    Berlin Trip : Foodfactory Berlin Cube – Sia Thai

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    I like an on-trend food court, with this one being located opposite Berlin Hauptbahnhof.

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    There are around six different food outlets here covering a range of cuisines, but the Thai option seemed the most exciting. The service was efficient and polite, with the prices being reasonable. There’s a buzzer set-up where you go up and collect the food when it’s ready and it only took them around eight minutes to have it cooked.

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    There were lots of seats available and it all felt modern and comfortable. The temperature and lighting were appropriate, with some light background music playing which wasn’t annoyingly loud.

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    I went for the Thai green curry which was served as a larger portion than might be evident from the photo. The chicken is tender, the rice was suitably sticky, the vegetables retained some bite and the sauce had a depth of flavour. The Tiger beer was the only option they had, but at least it was appropriate to the cuisine. I thought it was all rather pleasant and reasonably priced.