Author: admin

  • Bratislava – Museum of History at Bratislava Castle (Veil of Veronica)

    Bratislava – Museum of History at Bratislava Castle (Veil of Veronica)

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    This rather striking bit of religious art is a depiction of the Veil of Veronica, an image that hovers somewhere between theology, relic culture and the sort of iconography that would have deeply unsettled 17th-century Protestants. And quite honestly, it’s a bit intense for me, it’s not something I’d want adorning the wall of my Norwich abode. The basic idea behind this depiction is rooted in a popular medieval legend, that as Christ carried the cross to Golgotha, a woman named Veronica stepped forward and compassionately wiped his face with her veil. In return, the image of his face was miraculously imprinted on the cloth.

    The piece here is especially gory, there’s no romanticising the crown of thorns, and the blood flows freely in a way that can only be considered sub-optimal. Above Christ’s head is the abbreviation “I.N.R.I.” — Iesus Nazarenus, Rex Iudaeorum — which translates as “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews.” This was the inscription placed above his head on the cross, and it’s become the go-to Latin tag for anyone wishing to subtly indicate their religious art credentials. The gallery doesn’t know who painted it, but states that it’s from the eighteenth century.

    I suppose that art like this wasn’t created just to sit on a wall and collect polite admiration, it was meant to surprise and delight, or indeed in this case, shock. It’s something of a spiritual call to arms, but that’s why I rather liked this. I’m not sure whether a painting of a man dripping blood is ever going to be something that delights, but it certainly stood out in the gallery and I thought it looked quite modern when I first saw it.

  • Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Golden Rose Inn sign from 1719)

    Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Golden Rose Inn sign from 1719)

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    It’s not often that you see a pub sign in a museum and assume, incorrectly, that it was designed last Thursday for a high-end florist with delusions of grandeur. Actually, seeing pub signs in museums outside of the UK isn’t something that I really see much of at all, especially when the sign is over 300 years old. But this one, the Golden Rose Inn sign, looks I think unnervingly modern (well, with a retro tinge of course) for something that dates from 1719. I might have even believed someone who told me it was a logo proposal for a craft beer bar in Shoreditch, although typing that has made me sad about the disappearance of Goose Island from the area. But I won’t digress.

    The pub sign is made from hammered iron, copper and bronze, and it once swung proudly over a pub on what’s now Jesenského Street in Bratislava, but which for a while was called Golden Rose street after the venue. The pub, of course, is long gone, but the sign has survived, improbably, through war, empire, revolution, regime change and, perhaps most dangerously, the temptation of being melted down during a metal shortage. That it’s still here at all feels a minor miracle, or at least the result of one very determined preservationist who didn’t want it ending up as part of a drainpipe.

    Pub signs themselves are a particularly enduring form of public communication, visual anchors in towns where literacy was never guaranteed but drinking always was. From Roman taverns with their bunches of grapes to medieval English inns hung with animals, crowns and celestial saints, these signs were never just decorative. They were wayfinders, storytellers and social cues, an invitation to step inside and forget the weather, taxes or whatever royal war was being waged that week.

    There’s something comforting in the idea that local residents in Bratislava would have walked under this sign and known exactly what it meant, namely warmth, rest, a drink, and probably the same gossip repeated for the fifth time that day (not that I associate pubs with gossip of course). And if nothing else, it proves that even in 1719, someone knew that branding mattered, as well as the need for a drink. I liked this sign because of what it represented, all really rather lovely.

  • Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Schützenscheiben – Queen Maria Ludovica from 1808)

    Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Schützenscheiben – Queen Maria Ludovica from 1808)

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    This elegant wooden disc is a Schützenscheibe, which as my two loyal blog readers will now know, is a form of painted target used in traditional shooting competitions, a sort of festive invitation to take aim at a bit of imperial portraiture. In this case, the honour falls to Maria Ludovika (1787-1816) of Austria-Este, Queen of Hungary and Holy Roman Empress, depicted here in all her finery and dated May 1808. Nothing says “we love our monarch” like painting her onto a large wooden circle and then taking potshots at her from 30 paces.

    Maria Ludovika, for those not up to date on their early 19th-century Habsburg power players (and I’ve have had to faff about on Google as it’s not my strong point either), was the third wife of Emperor Francis II (later Francis I of Austria — same man, different empire). She was known for her political influence, strong anti-Napoleonic stance and, evidently, her ability to be immortalised on birchwood under a decorative ribbon and a hopeful branch of olive. The inscription rather helpfully proclaims her “the pride of Hungary” and “our greatest joy” which is precisely the kind of thing you say about someone you’re about to fire at respectfully with a musket.

    As some sort of claim to fame, she was the hostess of the Congress of Vienna in 1815, following Napoleon’s final defeat. Her health, however, had been deteriorating from 1809 due to tuberculosis. She died in Verona, Kingdom of Lombardy-Venetia on 7 April 1816 at the age of just 28. She is buried in the Imperial Crypt in Vienna and Maria Ludovika and Emperor Francis I had no children, but as he was married four times, he had successors ready and waiting.

    I rather liked the theatrical composition of it all and there are names of the good citizens responsible for commissioning at the bottom. This particular disc has survived remarkably well, with only a few signs of wear, suggesting either excellent preservation or slightly hesitant shooters. Another interesting little snapshot of what I would call the Germanic traditions of the early nineteenth century.

  • Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Schützenscheiben – Ferdinand V from 1830)

    Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Schützenscheiben – Ferdinand V from 1830)

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    This rather bold bit of decorative violence is a Schützenscheibe, a painted shooting target, and this blog might be featuring a fair few of these. This one features Ferdinand V (1793-1875), King of Hungary, looking thoroughly regal while charging into battle atop a very well-behaved horse. The date is 1830, when he was crowned in Bratislava (or Pressburg, depending on how much imperial nostalgia you’re feeling), and this object captures the solemn majesty of that moment, shortly before someone presumably tried to shoot it in the face. I was quite engaging with these targets, although that will likely become obvious to my two loyal blog readers when they see how many more there are.

    The Schützenscheibe tradition was a peculiar mix of patriotic enthusiasm and marksmanship, whereby people celebrated important figures or events by painting them onto wooden discs and then proceeding to fire projectiles at them. It’s not quite a state portrait, more of a royal rendering with optional bullet holes, but as ever, I rather liked it. Ferdinand V is doing his best “imperial grandeur” pose here and he’s wearing the Hungarian Crown of St. Stephen, because nothing says “shoot me here” like a giant jewel-encrusted hat. The whole thing is painted with surprising finesse, especially considering its fate involved standing at the end of a rifle range.

    There aren’t many holes in this one, so perhaps it was either just not used or the shooters were a bit inept. Ferdinand V, not content with being the King of Hungary, also became the Emperor of Austria in 1835. He abdicated from the Austrian throne in 1848, but he remained the King of Hungary as there was no way of abdicating from that. As a leader he was well-meaning and hopeless (I simplify things there quite a lot) but he’s an interesting character.

  • Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Eighteenth Century Map of the City)

    Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Eighteenth Century Map of the City)

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    This is a rather decadent old map of Bratislava, or Pressburg, or Pozsony, depending on how many empires you’ve been through and how particular you are about historical cartography. It shows the city sometime in the middle of the 18th century, back when people still called Austria-Hungary a good idea and maps were beautifully hand-drawn works of art rather than something you angrily pinch-zoom on while lost in a car park. It is a thing of beauty and the level of detail in the whole arrangement is high.

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    What we’ve got here is a proper Grundriss, a ground plan, the sort of thing a Habsburg official would have unfurled dramatically in a candlelit war room while saying things like “we must reinforce the bastion” and “who authorised this delightful fountain?” This large fortified lump on the left is Bratislava Castle, looking satisfyingly blocky and formidable, perched up on its hill like it’s judging the rest of the city for not being quite as symmetrical. But, the history of Bratislava has been for a long time the fortified heart and then the neighbouring castle arrangement.

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    I’m not suggesting that it’s a map to navigate by today, but the main street layout of the central fortified area hasn’t really changed that much. It’s a beautiful snapshot in time of a medieval walled city, albeit with many later redevelopments, not long before all the city walls were pulled down on the orders of Empress Maria Theresa in 1775. Although it was likely a sensible idea in terms of giving more space to the city and the threat of the Ottomans had somewhat diminished, it’s always just a little sad I think for a city to have lost its walls.

  • Bratislava – Bratislava Transport Museum (1968 Velorex)

    Bratislava – Bratislava Transport Museum (1968 Velorex)

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    This gloriously odd little machine is a Velorex from 1968, the Czechoslovakian solution to the question no one had asked “What if a car was made out of curtains?” Built from the late 1940s into the 1970s, it’s the vehicular equivalent of a determined shed because who needs crumple zones when you can just unzip your way out? This particular model is a Velorex Oskar 16/350, although the differences between versions were usually marginal and often depended on which bit of canvas hadn’t fallen off yet. The top speed was technically 85 kph with its motorcycle engine, but I suspect only achievable with a tailwind, a steep downhill slope and a complete disregard for mortality.

    What I rather liked, though, is how much design effort went into something that has the aerodynamics of a bread bin. The folded roof looks like it was borrowed from a military tent, and the door opens with all the structural confidence of a marquee flap. But I imagine that it works. It’s functional, minimal, and rather decadent in its refusal to pretend it’s anything other than a very determined mobility aid. But yet, a lot of people wanted these and demand outstripped supply for years.

    The Velorex was originally aimed at people with disabilities and what’s rather lovely is that this one has survived at all. Many were driven into the ground or abandoned when actual metal-bodied cars became affordable. But someone clearly saw enough charm in this canvas cocoon to wheel it into a museum rather than roll it quietly into a ditch. And rightly so. It’s an honest little thing, unpretentious, slightly ridiculous and all the better for it. It’s not a major exhibit here as it’s sat quietly off to the side, with the kind of modesty that suggests it knows it is playing second fiddle to the museum’s fine collection of Skodas.

  • Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Stained Glass from St. Martin’s Church)

    Bratislava – Old Town Hall (Stained Glass from St. Martin’s Church)

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    The museum seems rather proud to have these four pieces of stained glass which were located in St. Martin’s Cathedral in the city. The stained glass dates from 1667 and it was donated by Johann Glitzer, a master hatter and they were originally located in the second window of the northern wall of the shrine in the Cathedral. However, in the first half of the eighteenth century they were removed as George Rafael Donner was leading a reconstruction of the Chapel of St. John the Almoner in a Baroque style. That meant out went Glitzer’s gift.

    This Baroque chapel was in itself fortunate to survive as tastes changed and the whole cathedral was made to look Gothic in the nineteenth century, but they kept the chapel’s decorative features. It’s not a major exhibit in the museum, but the quality of the stained glass is high and I do like that a decision was made to keep it rather than just chuck it in some skip (or whatever the early eighteenth century equivalent was).

  • Bratislava – Bratislava Transport Museum (Skoda Octavia)

    Bratislava – Bratislava Transport Museum (Skoda Octavia)

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    This charming red contraption is a Škoda Octavia which has Bluetooth and crumple zones, and it’s not to be confused with the modern Škoda Octavia, which has Bluetooth and crumple zones, this version has neither, but it does have style, presence and just enough horsepower to make it to the end of your street if the wind is kind. Manufactured from 1959 until 1971, this was Škoda’s eighth post-war model, hence the name ‘Octavia’ which they presumably thought sounded rather decadent. And in fairness, for something made in a command economy, it’s rather swish.

    Power came from a 1.1 or 1.2 litre engine that produced around 40 horsepower, although that’s ‘horsepower’ in the same loose way that instant coffee is ‘coffee.’ It would get up to about 110 km/h if you were being brave, had a clear road, and said your goodbyes before setting off. The rear-wheel drive setup meant that in the right conditions, by which I primarily mean snow, you could probably get a bit of sideways action, or at least an elegant pirouette into a ditch.

    This particular example is in glorious postbox red, nestled confidently between a few other Czechoslovakian classics in the museum. I rather liked it. It has that Cold War chic that’s now swung firmly into the territory of retro-cool. The kind of car you’d drive ironically until you realised you’d accidentally grown fond of it. It doesn’t whisper luxury, it mutters durability and it doesn’t demand attention, it earns it. And unlike most modern cars, it could probably survive a mild nuclear event with only cosmetic damage…..

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Sentences from the Court (including George Archer)

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Sentences from the Court (including George Archer)

    And in my series of random posts from newspapers of 200 years ago this week. This is the court report of the Norwich Mercury and the punishments issued.

    “George Thurlow, convicted of stealing a quantity of lead from Rev. W. Manning, of Diss—2 years’ hard labour in the Castle. George Archer, convicted of receiving the same—14 years’ transportation. Wm. Bayes, convicted of fowl-stealing—2 years’ hard labour in the Castle. Robt. Dawes, an old offender—7 years’ transportation. Thomas Norgate, convicted of pig-stealing—18 calendar months’ hard labour in the Castle; and Robt. Pawley, convicted of receiving two of the same pigs—14 years’ transportation. Jonathan Forder, convicted of a violent assault on a child at Langley, pleaded guilty—to be imprisoned 6 calendar months. Chas. Dunham, convicted of stealing a quantity of butter from his master—2 years’ hard labour in the Castle.”

    Note that the violent assault on a child received only six months in prison, whereas someone who received stolen lead was transported for fourteen years, although he stole it from a reverend which probably made matters worse in terms of his sentence.

    With regards to George Archer who received this stolen lead, he was sent to New South Wales on the Sesostris, which had been launched in Hull in 1818. The ship set off on 23 November 1825 and arrived in Australia on 21 March 1826, but George had died en route on 11 December 1825.

  • Bratislava – Ibis Bratislava Centrum

    Bratislava – Ibis Bratislava Centrum

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    I had one night at the Ibis Bratislava Centrum, staying loyal once again to Accor Hotels. It’s centrally located in the city, around a five minute walk away from the city centre with its restaurants, museums and craft beer bars. It’s also quite convenient, as might be obvious from the photo, to the tram line. The slightly odd thing in terms of first impressions is that they drape the mat outside the front door so that it’s over the top step, I’m moderately surprised no-one has fallen down the stairs, especially as some of the tiles are chipped and damaged.

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    The room is the standard Ibis design, but I’m content with that. The staff member at reception was friendly and helpful, but there was quite a queue to check-in when I arrived. Fortunately, I’m rarely in a rush unless there’s a bakery or craft beer bar involved. As a minor point, they could though do with more power points, they are all over by the desk and they could probably do with them by the bed. I think that’s usually resolved though when the room renovations take place.

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    My welcome gifts and I particularly liked that chunky fridge magnet. Well, and the chocolate and the peanuts, there’s always a need for food based gifts. Call it an edible bribe.

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    And my welcome drink from the downstairs bar, the Urpiner Classic 10. It was the only beer that was available as a welcome drink and to be honest, I’m surprised that the fridge magnet didn’t stick to it as it tasted so metallic. It’s a very basic beer which was pretty devoid of any flavour, maybe some malt although I wondered whether that was just some slightly tasty dust. But, it was free, so I drank it.

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    The breakfast room was relatively quiet, which always makes for a calm start to the day. The staff member at the little desk had a friendly welcome as I arrived, but she said my room number wasn’t on her list for breakfast. She phoned downstairs to the reception desk and seemed pleased with their response as I was allowed in without any further query.

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    There were a variety of different seating types. This room is only used as the breakfast room as the bar is downstairs and the hotel doesn’t offer hot meals.

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    The breakfast buffet selection.

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    Delicious. There was a limited hot food selection, but I ignored that as usual, going for the cold food selection. That baguette was really decent, I had quite a lot of that bread along with half the hotel’s tomatoes, gherkins and pickled onions. I know how to live….

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    The view from my window over the city. It’s probably not the best view from a hotel room in Bratislava, but I liked looking at the trams going by. I also managed to make my room very cold, which pleased me greatly that the air conditioning was working, as the temperature outside was ridiculous.

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    I’m not sure that I entirely like “only use the stairs in an emergency” as that clutters up the lifts needlessly and also isn’t exactly the inspirational healthy message to give customers….

    The on-line reviews for the hotel are a little mixed, so I thought I’d meander through the negative ones to see if there was anything exciting.

    “Horrible noisy hotel, the room is dirty. The guests comprise of out of control kids and drunk Brit’s on stage parties.”

    Assuming that’s stag parties, that is a problem and I think is a challenge for the hotel. There was a British stag group when I was there with the stag dressed as someone from Guantanamo Bay, but the staff coped with them admirably.

    “I had an absolutely awful experience on the phone with the receptionist. After being sworn at multiple times and being told “I see people like you every day with your bullshit” i couldn’t face going to the hotel itself and booked through an Airbnb instead.”

    I find it odd how people manage to make a receptionist react like this, although I’m highly sceptical about this narrative anyway.

    “Location is crap.”

    It’s in Bratislava. May I ask what you were expecting to see out of a Bratislava hotel bedroom window? Sydney Opera House, perhaps? The Hanging Gardens of Babylon? Herds of wildebeasts swinging majestically…

    There are a lot of complaints about the air conditioning, so I might have been very fortunate to have a room where it worked so well. I have twice this year gone to reception at hotels to reject a room for being too hot, so I have a lot of sympathy for customers stuck in a room which is too hot. At least the windows open in this hotel, unlike some IHG hotels which seem to so often have sealed windows.

    “No mini bar no room service.”

    Aspirational.

    Anyway, I liked this hotel as it was clean and comfortable. I suspect the staff member was fed up with putting my bag in the luggage store as they did it the day of my stay and the day afterwards, with it being a slight faff to get the key, walk to the luggage room and all that, but she pretended not to be annoyed. The breakfast was decent and I liked the welcome gifts, so another win there. It was more expensive than I’d usually pay at around £60 for the room and breakfast, but I wanted to be in the city centre for at least one night. Hopefully I’ll stay here again, all rather recent.