Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: West Yorkshire

Halifax – Kobenhavn Bar

I didn’t realise at the time of visiting, but this is the sister bar of the Victorian Bar Cafe, which I’ve visited before and both of the venues are listed in the Good Beer Guide. The venue is positively reviewed on-line although one person was angry at the lack of Danish beer noting:

“Not a Scandinavian Beer on offer , not even a basic Calsberg or Tuborg”

There is certainly an argument that there should be a Scandinavian beer available, but a rather more limited debate about whether Carlsberg or Tuborg should be there. In my view, no, it shouldn’t.

There are two entrances to the bar, this is the former Blue Mountain cafe which they extended into in 2024, but they have a larger entrance on the Westgate Arcade which had opened a year before that.

The beer list is located near to the end of the bar.

The list on the wall isn’t the easiest to read, but fortunately, there’s a printed version as well. The downside of these, especially with 24 keg options and 6 cask options, is that they must need to be reprinted on a very regular basis. It’s a well curated list of options, but I note the review saying:

“Expensive, and serving bland, yellow beer, suitable for lager drinkers. Poor child.”

This is likely some sort of sneering about keg hazy pales and ironic that it is has one of the widest ranges of beers in the town. And:

“Not known drinks very student pub”

I think this means, not Stella.

The interior of the main part of the venue, which has very much of a cafe bar type atmosphere and they sell what looked like artisan coffees and the like. The service was notably engaging and welcoming, I rather liked the informal and laid-back nature of this whole arrangement. And the member of bar staff was positive about my faffing about on Untappd before ordering.

Beer one was the cask Shifty from Drop Project, a fluffy, gentle and soft pale ale which was nicely balanced.

Beer two was the keg Hecate from Tartarus Beers which was listed as being a chocolate and coconut stout, but I thought that it needed more coconut for my Bounty taste expectations. But, it was smooth with nice roasty and chocolate flavours. The Monster Munch helped with the flavour though and made up for the coconut deficit.

Overall, I felt that this was another excellent addition to the Good Beer Guide and I’m not sure that I would have visited otherwise as the door I walked by made it look like a cafe rather than a bar. I’m not sure that they’re doing food at the moment, or there weren’t any menus visible at least.

June 6, 2025
Halifax – Vocation & Co Taproom

I’m a big fan of Vocation brewery and I was pleased to see that their flagship new taproom has opened in Halifax since I last visited the town. I also noticed that one of the two JD Wetherspoon outlets has gone, but this more than made up for that as this venue is listed in the Good Beer Guide so that’s another one ticked off.

It’s a decent space and they have additional floors and space, along with a rooftop terrace. It’s all very on-trend and seems to be attracting a younger demographic. And me. They serve pizzas, which are a little punchy in terms of the price, but it all looks of a high quality.

I very much like the darker beers that Vocation brew, although there was nothing new available to me in that regard, so I went for some different beer styles. This is an excellent range of beers though and covers numerous beer styles. I didn’t have any cask options, as I tried them before, but they have keg and cask available to choose from. The beer list is also on Untappd which is handy, along with their wide range of cans which they have available.

This is the Spring Zing from the brewery, a balanced sour which wasn’t overly sour but had lots of rhubarb and was suitably agreeable.

And my second beer, both of which were just thirds, was the Afterglow from the brewery which was punchy and zesty. Coming in at 8% ABV it had a heap of stone fruit, lots of hops and a feeling of complexity around it.

I liked this venue, it was clean, comfortable and felt welcoming. The prices were towards the higher end of the scale, but there’s clearly been some considerable money invested here and I’ve a lot of time for what they’re trying to achieve. I’m not sure when I’ll next be back in Halifax, but I’ll likely quickly pop in here when I am as it feels like the equivalent of a friend who always has biscuits in the cupboard, somewhere worth dropping in whilst passing.

June 5, 2025
Keighley – The Livery Rooms

I wasn’t going to write about the Wetherspoons in Keighley, hence no photo of the front of the pub. But I’m in a good mood (although I’m not sure what relevance that is to anything…..) and it’ll help me remember that I’ve been here….

Firstly, the building itself, I’ll copy the history of the pub from JD Wetherspoon’s own web-site:

“At the end of the 19th century, ‘first-class, sprung carriages pulled by grays or bays’ were available for hire from the livery stables which stood next to and partly on the site of this Wetherspoon pub. North Street was laid out in 1786, but was not developed until the 1880s, when it was widened and the first of the large imposing buildings was constructed. In the 1890s, this site was partly occupied by a cabman’s shelter at the front and the town hall livery stables at the rear. The stables’ offices were converted into the Regent cinema in 1920, later to become a bingo hall.”

This is Keighley in 1900 and the Livery Rooms is located where it says ‘hall’ and there’s pretty much nothing else left today other than the free library. The public baths have gone, the Mechanics’ Institute has gone and the streets at the top left of the map have all been swept away.

Anyway, back to the modern day. I went for a half pint of Broomstick Bitter from Moorhouse’s Brewery, which was well kept, at the appropriate temperature (my friend Nathan always likes me to point that out) and had a perfectly pleasant taste. Service was friendly, although I was inwardly moderately annoyed as there were two of us at the bar when the barman came along and I mentioned the other customer was first, so he correctly served him. After that, he then went to serve someone who had just arrived at the bar, but I was pleased that this new potential interloper at the bar told the barman he wasn’t next, so I was served in turn.

The pub was unclean and the staff were ignoring the issue, which I mention solely because I routinely note how clean pubs and bars are, so it seems reasonable to mention the reverse. The carpet was flooded with litter and tables weren’t routinely cleared, although the pub was arguably over-staffed. This ties in with the reviews on-line, which are a fair bit below the average I’d expect for a JD Wetherspoon pub, so there are probably some problems here. Anyway, I should have better things to write about than the relative performance of different JD Wetherspoon outlets. Although I probably don’t since I’m writing this. But, I digress.

Although on the subject of reviews, I noted this:

“Manger, I am appalled with your service, my daughter and her friends came for tea as they haven’t seen each other since March because of lockdown and you seem to think it’s okay to say they can’t sit in and eat a meal because they are underage.”

I’ve heard this before when a group of kids come in and try and get served, even if it’s soft drinks, as if it’s somehow not a pub but a McDonald’s. Slightly odder when the parent goes on-line and gives a low rate because the “manger” is following licensing rules….

I liked this review:

“We decided to go in at 11.45 as they were closing soon. Just before midnight ovbiously last orders was shouted. I said i’m not getting another as I had about a 1/4 of a pint left. I think we’d had 3 pints whilst there. Straight after within minutes the shift manager Natalie started shouting can you drink up please as she walked past with another staff member Jake. Both looked very stressed out. I merely said ‘Don’t we get 20 minutes drinking up time?’ Which was replied with a very curt no. The next think the friend I hadn’t seen for years started shouting ‘Let’s start a revolution.’ Jake angrily said to the shift manageress ‘Barr them!!!’ I couldn’t believe this, that kid when he first started there a couple of years ago was a star and I told him you’ve ace with the customers. But that night he was a very angry young man. I told my friend to shut up and led him out quickly giving him a bollocking cos they will bar you and that’s my fav pub”

I’m with the pub as soon as I saw “started shouting”….. But I’m like that, I can’t be dealing with raucous behaviour in pubs.

What I can’t complain about is being charged £1 for half a pint of decent real ale, so that was very lovely. Friendly staff, but all a bit rickety at the edges and given the times in which we live, the pub should have been at least a bit cleaner.. The pub opened in 2004, but the chain spent £830,000 under two years ago to modernise the venue and that really wasn’t evident and it’s a shame the pub was in a state given that investment. As an aside, it would be remiss of me (even though it wasn’t the pub’s fault) not to mention for the sake of the historic record the horrendous event that received national attention in 2009……

November 15, 2021
Haworth – Mill Hey Brew House

I was tempted into this venue by the name, as anything called a Brew House sounds suitable exciting and worth a visit.

I was a little disappointed at this point as there were no decent keg options although there were a couple of cask options, the Saltaire Blonde and the Chinook Blonde from Goose Eye Brewery.

It was spotlessly clean, although I don’t think that it had been burdened by many customers earlier on during the day.

The Chinook Blonde which is made in nearby Keighley and didn’t meet my expectations. The beer wasn’t good and I think was on the turn, but it remained just about drinkable for me not to send back. It was becoming evident why there were nearly no customers and an examination of their Untappd check-ins showed that there was rarely anything of particular note here in terms of the beer.

I’m not really sure what customer base this venue is hoping for, but it perhaps needs to rebrand a little and it’s hard to understand their motives as their web-site has been closed. I liked the friendliness of the service, but with no food being served and no beer of note, there’s little that I could say stood out for me here. I understand that beers were brewed here by Mill Hey brewery, but it looks like they’re no longer trading, or at least there’s nothing suggesting that they are. All really a bit bland.

November 15, 2021
National Express : London Victoria Coach Station to Bradford

I’m posting out of order again (as in not in date order, I’m not being any more controversial than usual) as this was my National Express journey from London to get to the LDWA groups’ weekend being held in Haworth.

This is the National Express coach that departed from Gate 14 at the always cramped Victoria coach station in London. I was the first to board, not least as I was keen to get to my emergency exit row seat to get about an extra 2.5 centimetres of space. There was a friendly welcome from the drivers, who were switching around at Milton Keynes or somewhere similar given the distance.

Here we are after having boarded, with the coach being clean and comfortable. National Express seem to be one of the companies who are doing their best to keep their transport clean given the current health crisis.

And then we sat there for a while….. The driver made an announcement at the departure time that the coach was going to wait on a delayed coach given that there were connecting passengers. He had been told by the control room that the passengers were at the coach station and would be boarding soon, but after numerous delays the driver came on about 15 minutes after departure time and said “control said that we can go without the other passengers”.

That put us 15 minutes behind, but London was busy and the coach crawled out of the capital slowly and clearly getting behind schedule. I’m surprised that National Express make these schedules so optimistic, as there was nothing that the driver could have done and I’d have thought it’s better to err on the side of caution and expect delays rather than to expect the coach driver to storm the vehicle up the M1. The coach was meant to take just over five hours to get from London to Bradford, but it transpired to be nearer to seven hours by the time that it got there.

The coach was quiet until Milton Keynes, when it became pretty packed. It was still comfortable enough though and the air vents and power worked as expected, so the temperature was appropriate. The driver did make regular announcements about the delay, so he did what he could and kept everyone informed.

I was getting picked up at Bradford Interchange to get a lift to YHA Haworth, but it transpired that it was better for me to get off at Leeds and my lift picked me up from there instead. That was handy as it gave me chance to walk to a Head of Steam that I haven’t visited before, but meant I didn’t get to go on the coach all the way to Bradford, and incidentally nor did nearly anyone else and this seemed primarily a service used by customers going to Leeds.

I would have preferred to get the train from London to Keighley, which is the nearest railway station to Haworth, but that would have cost at least £70 which was just too decadent. This coach journey cost £10 and that seems pretty decent value to me.

November 15, 2021
Northern Rail and LNER : Keighley to London King’s Cross

After what I thought was a successful LDWA groups’ weekend I meandered down the hill into Keighley to get the train back to London. Here’s the delightful railway station, with the main entrance to the centre of the building (which is entirely logical), but the gateway to the right leads to the Keighley and Worth Valley Railway, a heritage line which goes from Keighley to Oxenhope via towns such as Haworth. There has been some talk of trying to bring the line back into commuter use, since it is entirely complete and linked into the current network, but no real progress had been made on that.

I went to the ticket office to collect my ticket from the machine, but there was a queue and so I asked the man at the empty ticket desk if I could collect it there. He helpfully answered:

“Well, we can do that, but we prefer not to”.

Really bloody helpful. Anyway, he did print out the ticket and seemed otherwise friendly, but the failing here is the operator Northern not putting in enough ticket machines (I only saw one).

This station was built in 1883 and replaced a previous station constructed in 1847 which was a short distance away over the road.

My ticket was to leave Keighley at 17:33 and get into Leeds at 18:05, before going from Leeds at 18:15 and arriving into King’s Cross at 20:28. I’m quite risk averse when travelling so arrived into Keighley railway station early and saw an earlier train arrive which was going into Leeds. I decided I’d go and ask the train guard if I could get on the earlier one to prevent a misconnect (although the real reason is that I wanted to ensure I got a seat on the London train). He answered:

“Yes and no”.

I love precision. He said that if I had got on and not asked, the answer was no and I’d be charged a penalty fare. However, he thanked me for asking him and said that I could board and I had his permission to use that service. That caused a slight commotion later on when revenue protection got on, but the guard was true to his word and confirmed my ticket was valid.

Anyway, they’re clearly very hot on fare avoidance on Northern, they seem to regularly check tickets and I’d advise definitely checking with a guard before doing anything slightly different…..

This meant that I got into Leeds a good hour before my train to London departed and I was pleased to discover the train actually departed from Leeds, so this would be the first stop.

Around 30 minutes before the departure time, the Intercity train slides into the platform.

I then stood outside the train door for ten minutes waiting to be let in. I spend a lot of my time standing outside the doors of public transport.

Full marks though to LNER for actually having logical carriage letters. Sometimes they’re something similar to A, Z, H, 5, 9, G, P and my ticket says carriage C. This time though I was in carriage E and that was easy to find, not least as I had plenty of time waiting for the doors to be opened.

And here we go, I boarded first at my end of the carriage and got my reserved seat at a table. A nice guy mentioned that he had a seat next to me on the table for four, but he’d sit opposite so that we had more space and we could both use the power points (which are annoyingly two for every table of four). We were both going from Leeds to King’s Cross and no-one else sat at the table during the journey, so it was comfortable. Incidentally, I’d have problems getting a suitable seat if I hadn’t of caught that earlier train, so I was pleased I had boarded an earlier service.

The seating reservations had gone wrong though and was effectively just suspended, which seems to happen on nearly every service that I’m on. Other customers, especially those boarding later on, were getting quite distressed at the whole situation with groups broken up and no on-board train staff were seemingly available to help. If LNER can’t cope with seat reservations they’d just be better off scrapping them, but I think even their managers would agree that this sort of thing is low down their list of priorities.

There were a couple in the four seats opposite us who pretended that the other two seats at their table were taken, which I thought was pretty unimpressive and another case in point of how the current set-up just adds stress to customers rather than making it a smooth experience.

The ‘let’s eat at your seat’ service which I was surprised to see was working. That is until it broke at Peterborough and an announcement was made that the service was now being withdrawn for the rest of the journey.

We arrived into London King’s Cross on time, but there were no ticket checks on the train and the gates were left open.

A slightly blurry photo, but I didn’t want to spend too long outside King’s Cross at night with my phone trying to take photos…. I was entirely happy with the journey for my purposes, with the trains on time and as I boarded early I got my seat reservation at a table and with access to power. Other customers had a less exciting experience split up from their friends and family despite having seat reservations and this whole set-up has to be improved by the rail network if they want to increase usage. Perhaps it needs to be as radical as if the rail company can’t provide the seat booked by the customer then it has to refund the entire ticket in a similar manner to delay repay.

November 15, 2021
Haworth – The Fleece Inn

Whilst taking part in the LDWA groups’ weekend, I got chance to visit the only Good Beer Guide listed pub in Haworth, the Fleece Inn. I discovered, with some slight annoyance, that it involved walking up a hill…..

The service was warm and the staff had the problem that the pub was full and they couldn’t seat any more diners, so they had disappoint walk-up guests. I wasn’t eating (since the LDWA weekend had no shortage of food) and I was fortunate enough to get the only table remaining which was quite handy. I was confused by the arrows on the floor and I watched other customers get equally muddled up, so I’m not entirely sure they’ve thought it through. I did see one customer follow the arrows, the other fifty or so didn’t.

This is a Timothy Taylor pub and the beer options were all from their brewery. There are usually four choices, but the one that I would have gone for had just run out, so I went for the Knowle Spring which was entirely average and quite bland, although well-kept. The one that I had wanted was the Havercake, named in honour of Captain Tom who was brought up in nearby Keighley.

The food looked of a very good quality and it was reasonably priced, so I can see why it was so busy on a Saturday lunchtime. The pub also has rooms available for overnight guests, so it serves breakfast for its B&B guests as well as walk-in customers. Certainly nothing wrong with the service, I felt very welcome throughout and I liked the immediate greeting from the team member behind the bar. As for the beer, the quality was limited by being from the Timothy Taylor brewery, which is just down the road, which isn’t really as exciting as I’d ideally like. Certainly a nice environment and I suspect it’s a really reliable place to go for food which seems well-run.

November 14, 2021
Leeds – Head of Steam (Mill Hill)

For reasons that I’ll post about when writing about (look at that for anticipation and cliffhangers…..) my National Express coach trip from London to Bradford, I managed to get 45 minutes in Leeds as part of the experience. This was handy as I was able to visit a Head of Steam in the city that I couldn’t visit earlier in the year as it was shut. That means that I’ve now visited all three of the Head of Steam outlets in Leeds, the others being Park Row and Headingley. This one opened in 2014, Park Row in 2019 and Headingley in 2016, so it’s the oldest in the city.

An interesting little design set-up which can be viewed by anyone going upstairs to the toilets.

I went for two half pints, the Barista Stout from Theakston (on the left) and the Abduction from Vocation Brewery. Both very decent beers, I very much liked the initial hit of raspberry and the aftertaste of plum with the Abduction, that was really quite classy. Definitely the best way to eat fruit. I was pleased with the range of beer styles being offered across cask and keg, with a pleasing selection of darker beers.

The reviews are pretty positive, but the pub was rightly annoyed at the 1/5 review on Google:

“Not been inside just outside”.

Really bloody helpful that is….

Service was friendly and this venue felt more like a relaxed pub than a bar, the other Head of Steam in the city centre is much more of a vibrant bar environment. I like this pub, it felt like it had a community feel and customers were served in turn and efficiently. The prices were reasonable and the pub seemed clean and organised. I was glad that the National Express faffing about led to me getting the chance to visit this pub, but perhaps it was just fate. And as a bonus that I didn’t realise when I was there, the pub is in the latest edition of the Good Beer Guide.

November 14, 2021
Saltaire – Salts Mill

I had a little visit to Salts Mill in Saltaire a few weeks ago, a building which was originally constructed by Sir Titus Salt in 1853. Salt wanted to create a modern village for his workers and what he built is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The mill building today is a combination of art gallery, antiques emporium, bookshops and other random stuff. The building remained in use as a mill until 1986, but the sheer amount of floor space and the falling price of imports meant that it became unviable as a business.

I have to be honest and comment that I thought this was a deathly boring place, but I’m perhaps not the target audience as I wasn’t intending to spend a lot of money on artwork. The building was fascinating and this could make for a museum that was world class, but there’s nearly nothing here about the actual structure itself. Anything of interest in terms of what was once in the mill is down the road in Bradford’s rather excellent Industrial Museum.

I’m sure that this sort of thing has a big audience, but I found nothing to engage me at all. I accept that’s not the mill’s fault…

Signage around the mill was poor and confusing, not helped by certain sections being shut such as the 1853 Gallery which was probably potentially the best bit of the building. The cafe arrangement was all over the place with more confused signage and people muttering about being lost or not knowing where to queue. I would go as far, as I’m in a critical mood, to say that the signage was inept, which is evident from the sheer number of reviews where different visitors are finding different things. One person said that there was a marvellous 45 minute video introduction covering the site’s history, and I’d note that would have very much been useful to me and others, as the theme of there being nothing about the building’s heritage is a common one. I have a slight suspicion that there is actually more at this site than a fair few number of visitors, including myself, have managed to locate.

Another floor, this time selling books.

It’s fair to say that I didn’t manage to find anything to me of interest at the site (and I’m struggling to recall a time that I’ve thought that about any site such as this), rather disappointing as I was hoping for some interesting art exhibition or information about the building. I think I managed to spend about 15 minutes at the site, and that involved lingering around a bit to try and lengthen the experience. But, it was all free of charge and the reviews of the site suggest that many people do get a lot out of the site. There are a fair few reviews of people who like me didn’t share the love of the place, but I’m glad that the building has survived as it’s an important part of the region’s heritage.

I’ll leave this in agreeing with a review posted a couple of weeks ago which gave 1/5 and said:

“Absolutely nothing to give a nod to the sites history and a seriously missed opportunity. Having studied Salt and his impact on society we took a drive to Salts Mill. There was a Hockney exhibition and a glorified Waterstones.”

And the Hockney exhibition was shut when I was there…..

October 7, 2021
Shipley / Saltaire – Cap & Collar

The sun hasn’t helped me here in delivering a quality photo of the frontage, but there’s always Google Street View for anyone who requires better imagery…. Anyway, this is a Good Beer Guide listed micropub which was established in 2014 and I wasn’t going to miss out on visiting this when I was in Saltaire.

I understand that there’s a beer garden to the back, but otherwise this is a relatively small pub. The main bar area is visible and the welcome from the staff member was immediate and seemed genuine.

The beer options, inevitably limited given that this is a micropub, but a few cask and keg options, although nothing dark. There were though some bottles and cans which I didn’t investigate at the time (but have now looked on-line and there’s plenty of choice across most beer styles), so there were some additional choices there. They also have their own branded clothing on display, which felt a bit aspirational, but there we go…..

I went for the Spectrum Eclipse from Vocation Brewery, along with Seabrook crisps which I think I’ve become addicted to. As an aside, I used to wonder why Morrisons stocked so many Seabrook crisps, but I’ve now discovered that both of them are headquartered in Bradford. Very hoppy and fruity, it was a refreshing beer although the lingering flavours were a bit weak.

There was a nice and friendly neighbourhood and community vibe to the micropub, deservedly in the Good Beer Guide I thought as the beer offerings were something different from the generic. Apparently (well, I’ve from CAMRA) that there a frequent tap takeovers and there are sometimes folk music performances. For those who don’t sufficient Seabrook crisps enough, the pub also has some street food vendors that attending on a rotating basis, giving a bit of choice to customers. All very lovely…..

October 7, 2021