I saw this on the side of a construction site and I think that the sentiment and the wording is really quite lovely.
Category: UK
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Harwich – Alma Inn (Good Beer Guide)
This is the only Good Beer Guide pub in Harwich that was open during my visit to the town and although its frontage isn’t necessarily the most appealing I was aware from reviews that this would likely be a positive experience.
Customers need to walk down the little corridor and then into the bar area, ignoring the tempting doors to the side.
This range of real ale surprised me, five different options across numerous beer styles is hard to achieve and maintain quality. However, since they’re listed in the Good Beer Guide and the reviews are broadly positive, they’re clearly achieving that. The prices are high though, over £6 a pint for real ale is what I’d expect to see in London. However, this venue is primarily a restaurant and so I’m assuming those prices reflect that, although those just wanting a drink are also welcome and there are some stools at the bar for when they’re full of diners.
Not a very clear photo, but a sign showing how high the flood water rose in 1953.
The interior has plenty of character and feels homely. The service was informal and polite, although I wouldn’t say there was any attempt to much engage beyond the minimum needed. But, that’s fine, not every pub is going to be the Hop & Vine, a friendly welcome is sufficient for me.
I’ve had the Black Adder from Mauldons before and it’s a very good stout, a roasted flavour with a creamy texture, with the pint here tasting just as I expected. The crisps were also delicious and complemented the beer nicely.
Someone has added the word “beer” at the bottom, which isn’t a bad shout. The pub’s web-site has a section which has the title “Officially the finest pub in the East of England” underneath “CAMRA Real Ale Pub” but I can’t find any evidence of that on CAMRA’s area web-site. It did win the branch award seven years ago but I can’t find any regional awards, but perhaps they were from other organisations.
I’m slightly disappointed (and only very slightly, I have more pressing concerns) as well that the pub’s web-site mentions nothing of its history other than it dates from the 1850s. Instead, the Harwich Pub Trail has a full history of the pub which is interesting, particularly the reference to:
“As it stands the building dates from many different periods but it was probably built in 1464 as a house. By 1599 it was owned by Captain Twitt – a relative of Thomas Twitt (or Twytt) a merchant and brewer in the town. The Twitt family were well-connecting and well-known in the town and Captain Twitt’s daughter married Christopher Jones at St. Nicholas’s Church in 1593. Although Sara died aged 27 in 1603 her husband went on to own a rather famous ship named the Mayflower and used it to guide the Pilgrim Fathers to America in 1620.”
It was a Tolly Cobbold pub between 1957 and 1990, then Pubmaster before falling into the hands of the hopeless and hapless Punch Taverns who sold it in 2010. And there’s some more history and older photos here.
There’s elements of quirkiness that I like, such as the details of their six bedrooms where they note about the view from one that “it boasts a sea view and a view of a quite charming electrical substation“. I also hadn’t seen before the poster on the inside of the entrance to the toilet that said something along the lines of ‘let those coming in have priority, their need is greater than yours’. I like that informality, I think it gives a softer edge to the pub and makes it feel that bit more inviting.
As a random aside, it’s not my problem and nor indeed anything I’ll think about again after writing this, but I find the pub’s use of the CAMRA logo all over the place and on every page a little confusing, as well as the reference to their being a “CAMRA Real Ale Pub” without any links to the national web-site. It may be that CAMRA have authorised this use of the logo and wording, but it seems unusual terminology that I haven’t seen before.
The on-line reviews for the pub are very positive, so I’d say it’s a safe bet that the food is reliably good, whilst the clear fact they’re able to stock five real ales is showing just how much beer they’re selling. It’s one of the more expensive pubs I’ve been in for real ale, and actually the most expensive pub listed in the Good Beer Guide that I can recall and that includes tens of London pubs, but prices are rising and no venue is immune to them.
This is one of these pubs that’s worth coming to get a drink for just to feel part of the history of the building, but given the excellent choice of real ales and how well kept they are, that all comes together to feel like reasonable value for money. And I like the irreverent sense of humours that is evidence throughout the pub, all rather lovely.
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Harwich – Statue of Queen Victoria
This statue spoke to me, albeit not literally, because it is a snapshot in time of the hopes that existed in Harwich in the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century. The statue was placed here in 1904 and it was listed in 1994 which has likely made it easier to receive the repairs that it had urgently needed over recent decades. The statue was unveiled by the Earl of Warwick on 11 June 1904 and was funded by public subscription which raised the necessary £400. The Earl of Warwick said that he was personally delighted that “all classes have subscribed liberally towards it, showing their spirit of loyalty”.
If Queen Victoria could turn around a little bit, this is the rather beautiful view that she would see. I suspect that if there were requests for statues of Queen Elizabeth II then the population would likely give generously, but it seems that the great era for statues and memorials is perhaps over.
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Harwich – Harwich Masonic Hall
The star at the front represents the Masons as I understand and it feels like an austere frontage for a building that is still in use. It was constructed in the late nineteenth century, but the building was badly damaged in the Great Flood of 1953 which caused substantial damage to the coastline of East Anglia.
The frontage did have windows at the time of the Great Flood, so I suspect that they were removed during the repair of the building in the late 1950s. Despite a large number of buildings in the area being listed, this one hasn’t been which also means that I haven’t been able to discover much more about its history. I found it interesting though with its frontage and was pleased to see it’s still used for community events. They’ve got a web-site at https://harwichmasonichall.co.uk/.
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Harwich – Greater Anglia Train from Norwich to Harwich
Today’s little pub, history and walking expedition is to Harwich since I thought that I needed a day out. I noticed on-line that the London train before mine was cancelled so thought I’d rush down in anticipation of the actual service I was booked on being full. Fortunately, I got a table just in time so was able to merrily type away for an hour or so. The service inevitably got busier and I got chatting to a confused passenger (they weren’t confused by me, or at least I don’t think so) who wondered why the train was so busy. We then shared our thoughts about Greater Anglia, which is a healthy scepticism I would say mixed with a supportive attitude.
My train arrived into Manningtree on time, but since it was a tight connection I didn’t get time to have a look around the railway station.
Looking to the left, the train was empty. Something of a contrast to the standing room only of the train that I had just disembarked.
Looking to the right, the train was empty. Now, I know I complain, but I hate it when they shove five seats in across. They’re so narrow that it effectively takes out the middle seat of the three so I disagree that there’s any benefit in terms of passenger numbers. Indeed, they’ve just made it more uncomfortable for everyone as it’s hard to navigate down the aisle and there’s a reason why trains traditionally have four seats across.
A couple of other people got on and then got off again at the gateway to the globe railway station that is Harwich International.
I do love a bit of history and they’ve made an effort with the boards at Harwich Town. The sign notes that between December 1938 and May 1940 that 10,000 unaccompanied children came to Britain from Europe. Although many people were involved, it is impossible for me not to mention the work done by Sir Nicholas Winton, someone that I consider to be one of the greatest people of the twentieth century. The relevance is that the children arrived here at Harwich and many stayed locally.
Another board about the Kindertransport.
I’ve been watching a lot of Hi-de-Hi recently and I didn’t realise that the programme was filmed at Warners which wasn’t far from the railway station, but unfortunately it was all demolished in 1992. That was a suitable treat to feel so near to where all this comedy action took place.
It’s a pretty railway station and it’s at the end of the Mayflower Line, with the building being rebuilt between 1865 and 1866.
And an information board at the front of the station, it all felt more remote than I had expected with all this greenery. But I had arrived into Harwich on time and ready to explore the town for my first time in recent years.
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Hempton – Bell Pub (Good Beer Guide)
I was pleased to discover that the Bell pub in Hempton opened at 11:00 as that meant I could make a flying visit to tick it off my Good Beer Guide list. Hempton is a moderately strange settlement as it’s effectively in Fakenham, but it feels entirely separate from it and in terms of its history it hasn’t much changed over the last 200 years.
It was evident that this pub would be excellent simply by evidence that it has survived at all, with the other two pubs in Hempton having closed long ago. As mentioned, it’s listed in the Good Beer Guide, but it also came highly recommended from people that I know in CAMRA. A quick look on-line shows that they’ve made an effort to have a web presence and they’ve also got a history of the pub which is something I always appreciate.
The Bell is a perfect example of a village pub where the welcome is immediate and the locals seem pleased when people come in to their pub. It feels like they have a buy-in, it’s a sign of an exceptional pub where the locals are so proud of their venue. And rightly so, it’s got a community feel where they show sports, have a pool table, two separate seating areas and a cosy atmosphere. There’s something for everything, not least a selection of four real ales which is a good going for any pub.
The beer is the Snetterton Scary Tree, the name of which comes from a local landmark which has unfortunately now fallen down. Brewed by Elmtree this is a session bitter which was suitably hoppy, being well-kept and at the appropriate temperature. Any concern I had that I’d arrive early on a Monday morning and might get a poor quality beer were unfounded as there were already several customers and all the beers had been pulled through.
My visit was short, but I got the impression that this was an exceptional pub which serves its community well and there were numerous events advertised which they’ve involved with organising. There was a friendly welcome, engaging service, keenly priced beer and plenty of real ales. It absolutely deserves its place in the Good Beer Guide, it’s a pub for the many and not the few.
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King’s Lynn – Live & Let Live Pub
This was a pub that I didn’t get to on my previous trip to King’s Lynn but it comes highly recommended and is listed in the Good Beer Guide, meaning that Łukasz had high expectations. Well, I did anyway. The lack of active signage did though make me wonder whether they were shut as we approached. Although to be fair, I can’t imagine there’s much passing trade on Windsor Road in King’s Lynn that’s being tempted in by signage, their reputation is already strong enough to ensure they’re busy. Anyway, I digress. The pub has a substantial history, it has been here since the early nineteenth century.
I don’t much like formulaic interiors that some pub companies seem to go for when they periodically rebrand and refresh their failing pubs, this sort of traditional, cosy and homely feel is much better. The service was warm and polite, with the pub being reasonably busy for a Friday afternoon (I waited for customers to move from the above table to take the photo). It has two bars and it’s one of those places where the character of the pub is evident when walking in. They also accept cards which was handy as we had limited cash on us. For those visiting between Mondays and Thursdays there’s 50p off pints between 14:00 and 16:00, a sensible way to get a bit more extra trade in during those hours.
This arrangement surprised and delighted me. Let’s start with the crisps, I’m not sure that I’ve ever had these before and they were suitably beefy (they’re made with real Devon fore rib beef apparently) as the packaging had indicated. That meant they complemented the Elgood’s Brewery Black Dog nicely, both strong flavours and this is a pub that tries to always have a mild on which is a very sensible policy decision. The pub is also known for its cider selection and has won numerous CAMRA awards for that.
The phrase “proper pub” is I accept a hackneyed term, but it feels appropriate here since the pub has character, it has a decent beer range and also excellent crisps. And what more could anyone want? Definitely worth the 10 to 15 minute walk from the town centre.
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King’s Lynn – The Wenns Chop & Ale House (2nd Visit)
I visited Wenns a couple of weeks ago for a flying visit, but since Łukasz and I were in King’s Lynn for the day exploring beer options, we decided to go for food there as well given how well reviewed it was.
The kitchen wasn’t quite ready when I ordered, but I liked how the staff member took the order and explained they’d get it ready as quickly as they could. I was in no rush, which meant that Łukasz and I managed to get through about 15 games of Jenga. I forgot how exciting that is to play after a few drinks. We did actually try other games as well, but I couldn’t understand the rules and so we thought we’d just stick to Jenga, that’s pitched more at my level.
My beer is the Battle Standard from Shadow Bridge which was a decent bitter from a smoky edge, it’s positive to see different breweries in pubs and this was particularly interesting as my friend Tony from the Hop & Vine had mentioned about this outfit which takes it name from being in the shadow of the Humber Bridge.
The garlic and chilli chicken strips, cleanly presented and fortunately just with a hint of garlic rather than a smothering of the stuff.
Excuse Łukasz’s arm in the photo, but the fish and chips was one of the best that I’ve had in a fair while. The batter had a depth of taste and was drained so it wasn’t greasy, the fish flaked away and the portion was generous. The chips were suitably fluffy and I think that the mushy peas and tartare sauce were homemade, or at least that’s what they tasted like.
I’m quite enamoured by this place, it’s really more of a continental type bar with a strong beer offering which has led to an entry in the Good Beer Guide, alongside a realistically priced and tasty food menu all with friendly service.
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Great Yarmouth – Theatre Tavern
This pub isn’t listed in the Good Beer Guide, not least because it doesn’t sell real ale, but I’ve never visited it before and so Julian and I decided to have a little look inside. It takes its name from the now demolished Theatre Royal first built in 1778 which was located on the other side of the road, which was later demolished to become the Regal Theatre and ended up as a Cannon cinema before it was demolished in the 1980s. The replacement buildings are ugly affairs, it’s a shame that the town lost the attractive theatre building. The pub has had its current name since 1824, meaning it’s not far off its 200th birthday, but there appears to have been a licensed premises here before then called Cups.
There was a tragedy in 1845 when the Great Yarmouth suspension bridge collapsed and the owner of the Theatre Tavern, Mr Harmston, organised a performance at the Theatre Royal to raise money for the families of those who had been killed. Over the decades, many of the performers appearing at the theatre came into the pub, it’s got some considerable heritage.
Wrongly branded glasses as Julian went for a Corona (and the bar did offer lime) and myself a John Smith’s, both tasted fine and were reasonably priced. It was evident that this was a proper community pub, it was busy and there was a vibrant but informal atmosphere so I’m confident that visitors to the town would feel welcome.
The bar area and Julian noted that they were talking about the Sheepdog Peanut Butter whiskey, as he’s sceptical of such flavourings. Fortunately Nathan and I had tried this decadent a shot a few weeks before over the road (well, over a couple of roads) in the Troll Cart pub. I recommend it.
There’s a pool table at the back, which I thought was interesting given the limited space available in the venue. The male toilets are out in the courtyard, seemingly a big improvement when they were installed in 1932 but now increasingly rare.
The old lounge bar sign showing the entrance to what is now the pool room. The bar is open to the front of the pub and has a hatch to the rear, not much has changed in terms of the interior structure over the decades and I think that’s rather wonderful. This is a proper pub with character, not burdened with craft beer or real ale, but nonetheless it seems to be catering very well to its audience and I liked it.
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Great Yarmouth – South Star / Quayside Tavern (closed)
It’s always sad to see a pub closed, this is the former South Star, later known as the Quayside Tavern and the Quay Pride. It shut a couple of years ago and that closure seems permanent as it appears to be a private residence now. It took its name from the South Star Battery which was a defensive structure built in 1782. Norfolk Heritage Explorer notes that the back garden wall has some reused materials from the former Blackfriars Friary which was dissolved in the 1530s. These are attractive Lacons buildings which are located in numerous places around Great Yarmouth, a distinctive design from the 1920s.