Category: UK

  • Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – Pump House

    Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – Pump House

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    As our final pub of the weekend, we decided to visit the Pump House on the Albert Dock. I’ve visited before and clearly shut it out of my mind because I wasn’t delighted to see that it was operated by Greene King.

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    There were four real ales available, with at least the Hinkypunk from Big Bog Brewery being an interesting option. The service was prompt and friendly, with the pricing being a little above the average for the area.

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    This was served at almost super-chilled temperatures and it suffered from that because any taste the beer might have had was entirely lost. Real ale isn’t supposed to be served at temperatures more suitable for keg beers and I have to admit to be disappointed that the pub was doing this, it’s a high turnover venue which is well financed and so basic cellar issues shouldn’t really be happening.

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    This was one of those pubs where it was a struggle to find a table which wasn’t wet, uncleared or had food debris on. I found a clean table for us to spend an hour gossiping about various people we know in my usual style, and the ambience was inviting enough but I can’t say the venue felt comfortable.

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    Ignoring the grammatical errors, I liked the effort made to explain the history of the building. There are some venues which ignore the marvellous heritage of their building, but this is a really useful effort to given information about the former use of the structure.

    The reviews for the venue are broadly negative, but not horrendously so, but it’s a shame they’re so low given the wonderful location of the pub and its heritage. The reviews of the staff are generally very positive, with the primary issue being cleanliness and the quality of the food. If I might be entirely honest, and since it’s my blog I can do what I want as long as my two loyal readers persist, but I can’t help think that matters would be improved if this was run by an operator other than Greene King.

    Anyway, moving back on to the Liverpool weekend. It’s now a few weeks after the weekend and I need to wrap this up as otherwise I’ll still be writing about it on the next weekend away (woooo, Hereford in a couple of weeks!). After another little walk into the centre of Liverpool, it was time for Bev and Susan to go back to their slightly odd hotel whilst I went to get a free burger (long story). It was all a marvellous weekend with great company, organised to perfection I thought with no shortage of chat about the meaning of life and all that.

  • Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 24 and Italian Street Food

    Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 24 and Italian Street Food

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    I’m getting towards the end of my attempt to eat at every food stall at Norwich Market and this week it was the Italian Street Food outlet. They sell quite a range of different food given the size of the stall, including pizzas, burgers and calzones (or calzoni, I’m never sure). I wasn’t sure how hungry I’d be as it was Nathan’s big 30th birthday party the night before, but as soon as I arrived at the stall I was confident that I could manage a pizza.

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    The stall was busy when we arrived and although the team members were occupied with preparing food, the service was prompt and efficient. James and I both went for the pepperoni pizza which I thought was reasonably priced at £9. We were pro-actively told that there was a delay on food service of around fifteen minutes because it was busy, but that didn’t seem excessive and I was grateful to be told in advance. The stall accepts cards and cash, with the ordering process all feeling well managed. It also was evidently a popular stall judging by the number of customers, they’ve built up something of a reputation over the last couple of years.

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    They kept us informed about the order’s progress and we then meandered over to Castle Gardens as there’s no seating at the stall. This was a very good pizza, leopard spotting as I like and it looked authentic. The tomato sauce was rich and the pepperoni was suitably tasty. There were no real negatives, although as a matter of personal taste the cheese wasn’t quite as I’d like as it seemed just slightly rubbery, but it was still of a good quality and the pizza was enjoyable. The base of the pizza was thin, as I like it, and it tasted authentically Italian.

    James added to the whole excitement by getting pizza stuck in his throat, just a week after he managed to nearly choke on bubble tea. I appreciate the risks to his personal safety to ensure that this market visit process can be concluded. I’d add that James was also satisfied with the pizza and speaking positively about the whole arrangement. He did mention black pepper would have been a useful addition and I agreed with him, remembering that I had a little sachet in my bag and that met my needs. It didn’t meet his as I only had one sachet, but he should come prepared.

    Overall, I very much enjoyed this visit and I’ll likely be back to try the other options, not least the chicken burger which I saw someone else have and it looked tempting and appetising. The team members were friendly, the service was efficient, the prices were reasonable and the pizza was of a good quality.

  • Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – Baltic Fleet Pub

    Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – Baltic Fleet Pub

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    The next pub on the schedule was the Good Beer Guide listed Baltic Fleet pub, a location that I visited a few years ago. The pub dates to the nineteenth century and has recently undergone something of a renovation to give it a more modern interior. It was once a dockers’ pub and was at one stage actually two different venues before they were merged together in 1901. There were formerly tunnels under the road to the Albert Dock, but they’ve now been closed off for safety reasons.

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    All was quiet and settled at the bar during our visit, but it had been much busier when we arrived. There was a quite a wait and I was served out of turn, but there was no hurry and it gave me longer to ponder which beers to treat myself to. I was aware that the female member of bar staff didn’t want to be at work and hated her job as she told her colleague and other customers this, it was somewhat sub-optimal but there we go. Her colleague was rather more professional and just got on with the matter of serving customers which helped clear the backlog quite quickly.

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    I went for half of a Marble Mild from Marble Beers which had notes of chocolate about it.

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    The Peat Bog Porter from the Big Bog Brewing Company reminded me of when Richard fell into a bog a few weeks ago on an LDWA challenge event. It was also rich with strong liquorice flavours and more subtle chocolate ones, meaning that I felt a hint of decadence to proceedings.

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    As there was no-one else in the male toilets, I took this photo of their rather innovative design.

    The pub is moderately well reviewed, although they don’t respond to reviews and I do wonder what went on here:

    “Visited this pub last night and ordered 3 pints of a nice cherry flavoured beer. Enjoyed everything about the pub until I left. When I got home I checked my bank account to discover I was charged £20 exactly for those three pints. This left a sour taste in my mouth when I realised how expensive the drinks were but also that the figure must of just been made up by the member of staff as £20 doesnt even divide by three.”

    I rather liked the venue although the service was a little awkward for customers listening to how a team member didn’t want to be there. However, everything was clean, the beer choices were interesting and there was a quirky feel to it. The venue is card only which has annoyed a few customers, although I can understand why they’ve made that decision. There are a few negative reviews about that, including one person who has demanded the pub accepts “legal tender” which is hardly relevant as they’ve not collecting a debt. With the pub visited, it was just then an evening walk along the former docks.

  • Streets of Norwich – Jolly Butchers Yard

    Streets of Norwich – Jolly Butchers Yard

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project…. [updated in September 2023]

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    Jolly Butchers Yard is located off of Oak Street and is named after the pub which stands to the left of the yard and which traded until 1989 when it was converted into offices the following year.

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    The yard is still there and there are residential properties within it, so this is one of the yards which retains some of its former character. It’s a shame that the pub is no longer trading as it had been a licensed premises since the beginning of the nineteenth century and was clearly packed with intrigue and adventure.

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    There’s a plaque which notes that Black Anna (her real name was Antoinette Hannent), the jazz and blues singer, lived here between 1935 and 1976 and she got the name as she only wore black clothing. She said about this habit (please note the clever wordplay there given what she said….), “I’ve had people ask what order I belong to, a bad one I tell them” and the below video clip features her saying this. The video was filmed in the Jolly Butchers in what was probably the early 1970s and it’s entirely evident what an amazing and inspirational landlady she must have been.

    There was a news story published in the Yarmouth Independent in May 1936 which had the title “GREAT BIG ROW” which sounds very Archant…… It noted that Walter Douglas from 7 Jolly Butchers Yard had an argument with his wife Gertrude Douglas and they used foul language within the yard during this big row. Elizabeth Carrara was watching the dispute from her window on the rear of Ber Street and it was actually her who made a statement about the “great big row” as she called it. I rather fear that this was a matter of domestic abuse, but the court decided to fine them each five shillings for their abusive language.

  • Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – Duke Street Food and Drink Market

    Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – Duke Street Food and Drink Market

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    When we were looking for locations for our evening meal, Bev suggested this Liverpool city centre food court and it turned out to be a marvellous suggestion.

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    I had popped to a couple of pubs on my own, so we all met up at the food court and were all welcomed promptly by an enthusiastic team member. After checking if we had visited before, she then proceeded to take us to an appropriate table and explained the ordering concept.

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    There are a range of different food suppliers, including ones selling steak, burgers, Mexican food, Spanish food and numerous other options. It works by using a QR code to order via a web-site and I found the whole process well managed and easy to understand.

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    The list of food stalls and there’s apparently a new one coming soon.

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    I went for the Painting Rainbows beer from Glen Affric Brewery, which was a really quite decent sour with plenty of rhubarb and raspberry flavour to it.

    For food, I opted for the chicken tacos from Big Lola’s Taqueria which were served as a generous portion and were as good as anything I’ve had in the United States. And, I’m aware that Mexico isn’t in the United States, but there are a fair few decent taquerio (is that the plural?) in the United States and especially so in the southern states. The chicken was tender and moist, the lime juice added acidity and the salad foliage added texture. It was suitably filling and I was pleased with my choice, especially as it was complemented by the chips Bev got for the table. I mean, she might not have got them for the table, but that seemed the best way to eat them.

    The whole arrangement felt organised and professional, with the food and drink being brought over promptly. Everything felt spotlessly clean and the surroundings were inviting and comfortable. The toilets are unisex which feels unusual given that they’re got quite a lot of space to use, although I can’t say I overly worried about whatever set-up they went for. The food court set-up isn’t for everyone, but it’s certainly on-trend and it lets groups have more choice over what they order. All really rather lovely.

  • Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – The Dead Crafty Beer Company

    Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – The Dead Crafty Beer Company

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    After a busy morning of visiting galleries and museums, Bev demanded that we go to a craft beer bar. Always eager to please, I felt that this was a rather good idea. After rushing Bev and Susan across the road, we went to visit The Dead Crafty Beer Company.

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    It’s rare to see this set-up now, most venues got rid of it in 2022. We had a little bit of a wait for a team member to see us, but we were then shown promptly to a table.

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    It was clean internally and the atmosphere was pleasant. Not being negative as I’m sure it works for most customers, but I didn’t like the table service arrangement. I had already chosen my beer on Untappd on the way there and it meant I was sitting there for some minutes without being able to order, whilst Bev faffed about choosing. Despite my trying to pay for mine individually when he took the order, the team member ignored me. Instead, the team member then came over and tried to charge the entire table for drinks rather than just allowing payment at the bar. Rather than unpick that mess, Susan kindly bought my drink as I think she was impressed with my tour guiding 🙂

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    I’m not sure I felt the team member was entirely happy with us wanting to pay separately, but there we go. He also didn’t seem entirely impressed at Bev’s choice of drinks for various reasons. The beer I went for was the Separate Self from Verdant which was suitably dank and rather delicious, with the pricing being reasonably for a premium beer. I had wanted to try another two beers, but despite sitting two feet away from the bar I had to wait for table service to be offered and it wasn’t when I needed it and I wasn’t quite sure of the protocol of going to the bar. The beer selection is though well curated and there are some intriguing options on the menu.

    I didn’t feel the love here unfortunately. I’m used to going to the bar, engaging with the team member about the options, boring them about my obsession with Untappd and then paying or being offered a tab. Instead the table service just felt a little awkward, although I appreciated that they had their menu on Untappd which made things much easier. Their web-site is also excellent with their range of beers in the fridges being listed, although I only realised they had these after I had left. If I had realised the extent of the beers in the fridges, I would have likely bought a couple, they have some delicious options from Three Hills.

    The reviews are generally very positive though, so I have to note that they are surprising and delighting their customers which means that everyone is happy with the arrangement. They’ve also been trading for many years, so it’s evident that they know what they’re doing and they’ve also won numerous awards. It was still a positive experience, but I did feel uncomfortable at some points.

  • Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – 1450 Cockleshell Badge from Camino

    Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – 1450 Cockleshell Badge from Camino

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    This is a cockleshell made from tin which dates to around 1450 and would have purchased by someone walked a camino to Santiago de Compostela. I didn’t purchase any little trinkets when I walked there as part of a camino a few years ago, but it was the sort of thing that Bev liked collecting up to nail on her walls at home alongside the dead squirrel or whatever it is. Looking at this item dating from so long ago did bring back some happy memories of my brave pilgrimage.

    I’m posting this really to show off my new knowledge about the camino, which is that there are estimates of 100,000 to 500,000 people a year completing the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in the middle ages. This is a ferociously large total, not that far off the number who walk it today and I discovered recently on YouTube how many English people went to walk this route. They would purchase or acquire a list of locations that they needed to visit and simply seek directions to the next village or town when they reached the previous one. Who needs Google Earth with a strategy like that? It meant that a lot of relatively poor people were completing this pilgrimage route and it is thought that theft from these pilgrims along the way was relatively rare. Theft inevitably happened, but the main issue for many was the rather challenging nature of the walk without resilient clothing and shoes. I’d say though that the bravery someone must have had to embark on this adventure must have been substantial and it would have taken a long time without Ryanair to fly them to a location relatively near to the start.

  • Streets of Norwich – Mountergate

    Streets of Norwich – Mountergate

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project…. [updated in September 2023]

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    Mountergate has also been referred to as the southern end of St. Faith’s Lane and the small section where it meets Prince of Wales Road is now better known as Eastbourne Place. The road name comes from the corruption of the parish name of St. Peter Parmentergate, which over time became Permountergate, and then Mountergate (and Mountergate Street).

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    Norwich City Council is very proud of its car parks and they put to one side perhaps too readily an English Heritage report asking them to reconsider building this. I’d rather that the council were proud of Norwich’s heritage and stopping knocking things down, but there we go. This is likely another one of those decisions that will be regretted in thirty years, although the building on the front part of this site was in fairness of no great historic loss.

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    As can be seen here, the car park beautifully blends into its environment.

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    There’s a road opposite the car park which leads to the Premier Inn and riverside walk.

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    On the left of this photo is a building which has been left empty since around 2005, whilst the beautiful car park still keeps going on the right.

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    The same neglected building from the front.

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    When certain Norwich City councillors were excitedly talking about their new car park, they were asked by some heritage bodies to moderate their plans to try and save the historic fishmarket site. The fishmarket buildings weren’t that appealing visually, but there was historic interest to them, even though they had only been constructed in 1914 when they moved from their previous site on St. Peter’s Street.

    English Heritage said:

    “The complete demolition of the fishmarket would result in the loss of this heritage interest and the buildings’ contribution to the historic environment. We would urge the council to consider alternative uses of part of the site that would allow retention of the fishmarket, but also alternative designs for the car park.”

    So, there was potential for the council to change their plans slightly to build their car park, but to save some of the fishmarket site. What the council actually did was ignore all of that, but they did save the plaque which they’ve attached to their lovely new car park. So, when people come to have a look at the fishmarket site, which was of historic note albeit very run-down, they can now see where it was. Great.

    There was a question asked of the council at the time about surely their own public transportation plans were failing if their only solution was to keep building car parks. I’m not sure they came up with an answer to that.

    Anyway, there’s no point in being negative. One advantage in the council knocking down sites of interest is that there are fewer listed buildings for me to note.

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    This is one listed building that remains, a seventeenth-century former factory site which still has some character to it, even though there have been a couple of extensions in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when it was used in the manufacture of boots and shoes. Behind it is St. Faith’s House, which fronts onto Baltic Wharf.

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    A more modern office building, and then the entrance to the new St. Anne’s Quarter building development. Somewhere along here was the site of the Orchard Tavern, which was the only pub located on Mountergate.

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    The pub was badly damaged during an air raid in 1940 and the owners, the Lacon Brewery, decided that they wouldn’t rebuild it.

    Taking a look at the 1939 Register, St. Faith’s Tavern was located at 17 Mountergate and the landlord Fred Furze lived on the premises with his wife, Melinda. The pub closed in 1961 and it was once located at the corner of Mountergate and Synagogue Street.

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    Everything on the left has been lost to the St. Anne’s Quarter site (although much had already been lost to war damage), but the wall on the right-hand side has been retained.

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    And that wall leads to this gate, which led into where the Rose Lane iron-works are marked on the map. Now replaced by the Parmentergate Court housing project, at least this element has been kept as part of the site redevelopment. George Plunkett, who I’ve never known to be wrong on anything, wrote that the walls were from the Co-op shoe factory and were “retained as a baffle against traffic noise for Parmentergate Court”. Another source says they’re the old iron-work walls, and I have no idea which they are, unless both were at the site at the same, or different, times. On balance, I can’t imagine Plunkett was wrong though.

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    The road, which is pedestrianised at this point, then meets King Street and straight over is Stepping Lane. A century ago, there would have been a road on the left-hand side, which was where Synagogue Street once stood. Much of this was lost during air raids in the Second World War, with the synagogue the street was named after being badly damaged, and then moved to a new site on Earlham Road in 1948.

  • Streets of Norwich – Ninham’s Court

    Streets of Norwich – Ninham’s Court

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project…. [updated in September 2023]

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    Ninham’s Court is a thoroughfare which connects Bethel Street to Chapelfield and it hasn’t changed its route over the last few centuries.

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    In this 1880s map, the thoroughfare was known as Masters Court and it takes its current name from the artist Henry Ninham, who lived at one end of the street. Ninham, who lived at the Chapelfield end, was a landscape artist and member of the Norwich School of Painters. He rather helpfully painted and drew many images of Norwich’s yards, courts and old buildings, with these sometimes being the only memory of them since they have long since gone.

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    Photos from the route of Ninham’s Court, which is a narrow passage which reminds me somewhat of the rows in Great Yarmouth. The moss growing on the wall adds some atmosphere, but otherwise this isn’t really a street that anyone should necessarily travel to visit…..

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    This photo is of limited use here (but George Plunkett can help here with this photo and also this one), but along the route are some houses which were likely built in the sixteenth century, although the fifteenth century undercrofts of older structures remain. This is the text about this property from the new city council’s heritage walk, which is what took me down this thoroughfare in the first place:

    “In the alley is the house of Nugent Monck, who founded the Norwich Players here in 1911. His company first performed in the large drawing room, which accommodated a small stage and an audience of about 70 people. Their popularity meant he needed more space and moved to the site of the current Maddermarket Theatre in St. John’s Alley.”

    There was an article in the Norwich Mercury in September 1896 where freehold properties were for sale in the alley, split across nine lots with an annual rent of £204 12s.

    One resident of note was Robert Briggs, whose death the Norwich Mercury announced in 1901. He had become something of a notable character locally as he was the last Norwich survivor of the famous 1854 charge of the Light Brigade at Balaclava.

    There was a tragedy on the alley in January 1911 when three year old Ada Louisa Waterson perished in a fire. Her mother had left her, and her tied up to a chair baby sister, whilst she went off to walk to Cow Hill for fifteen minutes. When she returned she saw smoke and then realised that Ada had died by burning, likely by wearing flannelette. The Coroner was most unimpressed, he condemned the mother saying that it was deplorable that children had been left unprotected.

  • Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – The Fever Van by Lowry at Walker Art Gallery

    Liverpool Weekend (Day Three) – The Fever Van by Lowry at Walker Art Gallery

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    Welcome to the occasional series of art posts when I know next to nothing about the artwork but merrily write stuff anyway for my two loyal readers. But, it’s rather good (the artwork, not my posts). It’s entitled ‘The Fever Van’ and it’s by Laurence Stephen Lowry (1887-1976), painted in 1935.

    The gallery notes:

    “‘The Fever Van’ shows an ambulance arriving to collect a patient from a small terraced house. The sufferer probably has diptheria [sic] or scarlet fever, both highly contagious diseases and widespread in industrial Britain in the 1930s. A lack of vaccinations meant that such diseases were frequently fatal.”

    Although I particularly like this comment from Lowry:

    “Accidents interest me – I have a very queer mind you know. What fascinates me is the people they attract. The patterns those people form, and the atmosphere of tension when something has happened… Where there’s a quarrel there’s always a crowd… It’s a great draw. A quarrel or a body.”

    It’s a reminder how prevalent diseases were in the last century, with routine vaccinations against diphtheria not taking place until the 1940s and scarlet fever had only been addressed in the 1930s. I hadn’t realised how effective diphtheria vaccines were, seeing a reduction in cases from 46,000 in 1940 to 962 in 1950, with a corresponding fall in deaths from 2,480 to 49.

    With great foresight from the Walker Art Gallery, they purchased it directly from Lowry in November 1943. His mother had died in October 1939, before he had gained the formidable reputation that he now has, and it’s noted that he regretted that she didn’t see the impact that her son’s works were having. The painting just seems bleak to me, there’s the obvious sadness of the ambulance, but the whole atmosphere feels grey and industrial. But, that’s something of the point of the painting and I found myself quite drawn to this snapshot of the age. It’s also reminded me that I must visit the Lowry Museum in Salford at some point, another location that I’ll put on the list that perhaps one day I’ll complete ticking things off.