Category: UK

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : State of the City

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : State of the City

    And another in my series of posts from the Norwich Mercury of 200 years ago, this one was published on 13 December 1823, and it relates to the condition of the streets of Norwich. I rather like the picture that this article conjures up of the state of Norwich streets at the time, albeit clearly greatly improved in the years that preceded this article.

    “The inhabitants and the visitors of Norwich must have (for some time past) regarded with no slight satisfaction the attractions which have been going on in various parts of the city. We well remember the anticipations of the friends of the act for watching, paving, lighting and cleansing our streets, and it appears to us the time is now come when the realisation of so much of what they prophesied is come to pass, that they have cause for triumph. Certain it is that many of the streets of the city are greatly improved: the shops are in themselves more elegant as well as more convenient, and the display of goods of all sorts is more varied and tasteful. The progress of things has, without doubt, effected many of these desirable changes, but no little is owing to the spirit of improvement, which, when once excited into action, is unlimited in its operation.

    One present purpose however is not so much to speak of general as of a local alteration, which appears to be to be amongst the most beneficial the city has yet undergone. We allude to the striking improvement in the market and the streets adjoining. Never, we will venture to assert, has any thing been done since the passing of the Act (near seventeen years) more worthy of public regard and approbation, than this will be when its completion, which is nigh approaching, is effectuated. In tracing its progress, we observe that a sewer of considerable length and capacity has been made sufficient to receive the filthy tide of waters which formerly flowed on the surface from offensive private drains and channels, to the great annoyance and inconvenience of the inhabitants, and the utility of common sewers was never made more perceptible.

    The pavement between White Lion Lane and Brigg’s Lane, which was of late absolutely unsafe for carriages, from its irregular surface, broken into deep ruts and holes, is now brought to a smooth and commodious level, with a spacious foot-way on its sides, and is indeed in no respect inferior to the best-paved streets of the metropolis. The Hay Hill, from its rude, mis-shapen and irregular form, intersected as it was by channels in all directions, and almost impassable, is now made of easy ascent, and perfectly safe both as a carriage-way and to foot passengers.

    These improvements are continuing to Bethel Street. And here we are most forcibly struck with the metamorphosis which the public spirit of a single gentleman has wrought. It is within every one’s remembrance, that this street was amongst the vilest in the whole city – the houses dirty and squalid, the pavement all but impassable, while the wretched inhabitants of the adjacent yards and thoroughfares were of a description to reduce and almost annihilate the value of the few decent habitations the street contained. Since Mr Hawkes came to live in it, he has gradually removed every one of these objections; and while he has advantaged his own property, he has ornamented the whole length of the street, and set a noble example of what may be effected by a spirited individual. For the other improvements, the city is indebted to the contribution of £300 from the Corporation and the liberal subscription of £200 from the inhabitants of St. Peter’s Mancroft, which have enabled the Commissioners, who are always anxious to do their utmost, to effect the work.

    Nor can we conclude our article without paying to Mr Rooks, the surveyor, the tribute that is due to his talent and attention. This gentleman has been resident here during a long and active life, and he has been employed in great public works and in many private undertakings, which, if less conspicuous, are scarcely less ornamental or less useful according to their degree. It is therefore with particular pleasure that we offer our best acknowledgements to him for he combines zeal with judgement and both with the feelings and the manners of a man of taste and talent.

    This subject matter naturally leads us to something further. One of the most narrow and dangerous avenues to the market is the confined street called Brigg’s Lane. St. Stephen’s Street is greatly bettered, and wants but little to render it a good and open approach. Rampant Horse Street is still more spaciou, but those advantages are incalculably lessened by the existence of the insufficient passage which Brigg’s Lane presents. If we remember rightly, the Rev. Henry D’Oyley, a Clergyman of Hempnall, devoted some of the last years of his life to soliciting from parish to parish and from house to house a subscription for the purpose of enlarging this avenue.”

  • Streets of Norwich – Bishopgate and Norwich Lower School Gone By

    Streets of Norwich – Bishopgate and Norwich Lower School Gone By

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    Linked to my Streets of Norwich – Goldsworths Buildings post…..

    John kindly got in touch regarding Norwich Lower School, which is a little further down Bishopgate. This is relevant as pupils had to walk by the former Goldsworths Buildings to get to the football pitch near to the river.

    There will be a longer interview in the new year on this, but John mentioned:

    “The Lower School was built in the old fashioned style common to state schools in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with high windows and a pitched roof. Think of it as an elongated rectangle divided laterally into three classrooms. The room nearest Bishopgate was the 2 J classroom (Mr Christopher Smith, known by us as Smithy), then Form 2 (Mrs Edith Stephenson, the headmaster’s stepmother, who we referred to as Ma Stevo) and furthest back was Form 1 (Mrs Spruce, known irreverently as Fanny – we had no concept of the more slangy meaning of this word as it is often used nowadays, it was just a female name as used by Jane Austen for Fanny Price). We were turned out at break times on to the School Field. The loos were also outside and froze up in the cold spells which happened every winter in those days, accompanied by snow and ice. The whole setup would have failed a modern school buildings inspection and the place was demolished after the next Lower School was built in (I think) the mid 1960s.”

    I hadn’t known much about the old Lower School, which was replaced in either the late 1970s or early 1980s with the current building. There was an arson attack in something like 1989 which caused significant damage, but the general structure of the building was restored, although extended.

    Unfortunately, the late and great George Plunkett doesn’t have any photos of the school in its current or former incarnation, so I’ll go on the hunt elsewhere for those.

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Sausages from Lobster Lane

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Sausages from Lobster Lane

    Returning briefly to my series of posts from newspapers of 200 years ago this week…. This is from the Norwich Mercury and it’s an advert that was just a little intriguing, bearing in mind that ‘eructative’ means ‘belching’. It reads:

    “W. GREENWOOD, Lobster Lane, Norwich.

    Highly sensible and grateful for past favours, most earnestly solicits a continuance of the same, respectfully notifying to his friends and the public, that he has commenced making sausages for the season, assuring them that they are made of the best meats, and spiced in a process peculiar to himself, and possessing a flavour inherent in them the most delicious to the taste and depriving them of that eructative quality so unpleasant to the palate, which is generally the case after eating sausages. Are only to be had at his old establishment, in the Lobster Lane.

    NB, home cured hams, blacked breasts, tongues, &c, having that delicacy of flavour and fine tenderness of texture for which they have been held up and so highly esteemed.”

    As an aside, the &c is the old printing version of etc. The sausages of the early nineteenth century certainly seemed to have been of a dubious quality if this advert can be believed. Lobster Lane is the little stretch of road that connects Pottergate with Bedford Street, an area of the city where the Saxons were present as a kiln from that period was found on the street. The street, I assume, was named after the Lobster pub which was once located here. Unfortunately, I can’t find out much about Mr Greenwood, but I would have rather liked to try these decadent sausages of his.

     

  • Bucharest Trip – Day 1 : British Airways Flight to Bucharest

    Bucharest Trip – Day 1 : British Airways Flight to Bucharest

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    I mentioned in a previous post for my two loyal blog readers that I was on razor thin timing for my flight, having left the hotel just 2 hours 30 minutes before take-off. I considered the reality that it might take over an hour to walk to the bus stop, get on the bus and then arrive into Heathrow Central bus station. In reality, it was 11 minutes. But, that meant one thing, I was safely at Heathrow Terminal 3 ready for my British Airways flight to Bucharest. For all of its faults, I’m still keen to use British Airways and I opted for them to get me to Bucharest. Steve had used BA the previous evening, whilst Bev, Susanna and Thim had decided that Ryanair was for them. Bev would use a cattle truck to get there if she could, but I’m surprised that Susanna and Thim weren’t a little more decadent. But, naturally, I didn’t say anything about the matter.

    Back to the flight though. The boarding gate process was handled well, there was no wait and there was a seat whilst they called the groups forwards. All very organised and calm, this felt well managed. It’s always pleasant when the boarding process feels calm, sometimes it all feels a little chaotic and stressful.

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    Here we are on board. I say we, but I primarily mean me and the other passengers. It was an Airbus A320 aircraft, registration G-EUUF (although I need to check this, as two sites have different aircraft registration codes for this flight which I haven’t seen before). Assuming it was G-EUUF, BA have had this plane since new when they purchased it in 2002 and I don’t think it’s one that I’ve been on before (but my records are quite patchy, I didn’t know I was going to become interested in recording this for some time). Once again, I should really get out more…

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    One of the vestiges of my status with British Airways is that I can still book these for free, so I got an emergency exit row seat. I’ll be back to silver status early next year (the lowest status I can get which gives me lounge access), required given that I do like visiting the airport lounges as I get excited by free cans of Fanta. Also for my comfort, there was no-one on else this row which was quite handy. Especially given that Thim was reporting he had a somewhat less comfortable experience on the Ryanair flight he was on. The seating area was clean and everything worked as it should,

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    Satisfactory leg room and the cabin crew were pro-active and friendly. There were also working power points on the service which proved handy. The pilots were the usual middle to upper class sounding British Airways flight crew, sounding reassuring and competent. Not that other pilots aren’t competent, it’s just that the announcements made by British Airways crew seem to be so quintessentially British that it fits their brand well.

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    There were no delays on departing and the passengers all seemed sensible and efficient which meant no issues with people trying to shove large bags in awkwardly to the overhead lockers.

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    The free snack and water, which I still think is a positive touch rather than the previous effort they had which involved giving passengers absolutely nothing.

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    And safely into Bucharest, twenty minutes earlier than expected. There was little to report from the flight, which is a positive thing as too much drama on board is often sub-optimal. I had mentioned to Bev that I didn’t want her, Susanna and Thim waiting for me as they got in 90 minutes earlier, but that was good since they didn’t bother anyway. Once again, I didn’t comment negatively on that situation. On the matter of the weather, it looked just a little bleak, but the temperature was fine for my needs and the rain wasn’t too bad.

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    I won’t go on about the European Union as my thoughts on this are well known to my two loyal blog readers (and for anyone else, #iameuropean) and EU citizens were able to breeze through passport control. Those from the UK had a much longer wait which was sub-optimal. Anyway, I was again impressed with British Airways, everything worked as it should, everything was clean, the crew were friendly and the service was efficient. The flight cost £42 each way, which I think is very reasonable, especially as I used Avios from previous flights to reduce that to £24 each way. All rather lovely.

  • Bucharest Trip – Day 1 : Superloop Bus to Heathrow Airport

    Bucharest Trip – Day 1 : Superloop Bus to Heathrow Airport

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    I admit to being slightly, but just slightly, geeky about London transport. Buses, trains, trams, underground services all hold some excitement and I’ve been following the introduction of TFL’s Superloop services. I decided to wait for a short while to get service SL9 which is the orbital route from Harrow to Heathrow Airport.

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    And here it is, the SL9. Admittedly, this isn’t really that exciting, it’s a standard bus that until recently was just branded the X140. For anyone further interested there’s more on Wikipedia at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/London_Superloop, with the new system being a little complex if I’m being honest. Or, at least, it seems complex to me which might be a different thing.

    For the purposes of the trip to Bucharest, it took five minutes to get into Heathrow’s central bus terminal and the service wasn’t too crowded.

  • Beccles – 2023 Beer Festival

    Beccles – 2023 Beer Festival

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    Emma, from the formidable Boudicca Brewery, kindly invited Alex, Julian, Gareth and myself to the trade session of Beccles Beer Festival where she had donated a barrel of beer. We were confronted by quite large crowds at Norwich bus station which transpired to be because the bus before hadn’t turned up, which was acceptable since it was caught up in a bomb incident outside Lowestoft Aldi. Sub-optimal for all concerned.

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    The bus appeared and Emma and I managed to get seats. Unfortunately for Alex, the bus soared past him at his bus stop as it was so busy, but Emma made sure he knew we were on it by jumping up and down whilst waving out of the bus window. I didn’t say anything.

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    Safely in Beccles, we thought we’d get some food. I got a battered sausage and chips from Beccles Fish Bar and I have to say, this was really rather lovely for just over £4. The sausage was a proper butcher’s one rather than some plastic arrangement which is all too common in chips shops, whilst the portion of chips was generous and I only just finished them. I was also impressed at the way they were wrapped, but I’m easily pleased. The service was friendly and I was pleased to be able to explain that they were surprisingly busy with unwrapped orders because the beer festival was taking place a couple of doors down.

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    The beer glasses which took me back to being on glasses and tokens at Norwich Beer Festival a couple of weeks ago.

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    The glass was £3 and I later decided to keep it, even though I’ve evidently got enough glasses. And paying £3 in total didn’t seem bad value to me. There’s a free programme that comes with it, although I accidentally left that behind which I didn’t mean to.

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    Hmmm, a blurry photo of the bar area. Anyway, the set-up was that the beers were all free as they were donated by the brewers. The event is independently organised and takes place at Beccles Public Hall and Theatre. It got quite busy later on and everything felt well organised.

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    The green ones were free, whilst the yellow ones were only being put on for the main part of the festival this weekend.

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    Gareth turned up with sweets, he’s very reliable at that. Julian also drove due to some earlier car purchase issues, which had the advantage of meaning we could get a lift back and stay at the festival a little longer.

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    Cheers! As for the beers I tried, they’re listed on my Untappd account for anyone interested. Form an orderly queue and all that. The best beer was of course Emma’s Golden Torc, but I was also quite impressed at the Beccles Best, a very sessionable beer with a pleasant toffee finish.

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    Julian decided he’d treat himself to a sausage roll, freshly microwaved.

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    And back in Norwich, I was frogmarched into the King’s Head by Emma and Julian, just in time to wish Oli a happy birthday and watch Oscar acquire himself a bottle of wine. Emma and I quickly played two games of bar billiards, with the final score being 1-1, so that seemed fair. As I wrote about the other day, my own bar billiards league career is over for the year. Then there was much gossip and crisps to take me into the early hours of the morning.

    All told, a lovely evening at the beer festival and many thanks to Emma for the invite! That’s three things she’s taken me to this year, Cambridge Beer Festival, Peterborough Beer Festival and Beccles Festival and I’ve loved them all.

  • Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – The End and the Final Results

    Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – The End and the Final Results

    Over the last few months, I’ve visited all 29 of the food stalls at Norwich market, initially with my friend Nathan and then my long time market food eating friend James took over to assist. This was all a marvellous idea, the variety, quality and value of the stalls has really surprised me and made me feel just a little guilty for having gone to same chip stall for the best part of twenty years. There are dessert stalls, Chinese, Indian, Mexican, cafes, chips shops and plenty more besides. I fully recommend a visit to Norwich market for any visitor, or indeed resident, of Norwich to see just how much variety is here.

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    Honourable mentions first. There were many friendly figures at the market, but the one that stands out for me is back in week three when our social butterfly Nathan got chatting to the really lovely owner of Chimneys. Given that he had just picked me up from Luton Airport (Nathan, not the guy running the market stall) I was impressed at his socialising skills. Unfortunately, Chimneys is the only stall that has closed during this process, I do hope the lovely guy running it thinks about another similar project in the future. Back to Nathan and his socialising, when we went to the Taste of Shanghai he already knew the owner as he had had a chat with him in the street or something. Who chats to people in the street? Also honourable mention to Deb’s for making a bacon sandwich just I like it, namely not what I consider to be raw as some places serve it. And, to the venue that might have surged into first place if they had offered us hot pies with gravy, Walsingham Farm Shop. The theatre of the Go Crepes stall was also a delight to watch.

    After much ruminating, this means that the results are in and I’ve decided to name my favourite three outlets as my two loyal readers have been waiting for this. I haven’t consulted Nathan or James on this as I’ve decided it’ll all be about me  🙂  For anyone who wants to see all the photos from every visit, they’re at https://www.flickr.com/photos/julianwhite-uk/albums/72177720305738387. I’m also conscious that some new stalls have opened recently, we’ll visit them in 2024.

    Now, after much wittering, my top three!


    3RD PLACE: COCINA MIA

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    I had to think about this for a while given that there were so many positive moments. I liked the friendliness, the variety of the menu and also the depth of flavour of the food. There were positive little touches here, including the free water for customers and the comfortable seating area. The empanada I ordered was generously filled with pieces of chorizo and chicken, all very tender.


    2ND PLACE : LUCY’S FISH AND CHIPS

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    In second place is a stall which means quite a lot to me since I’ve visited so much, Lucy’s Fish and Chips. Their customer service is on point, they manage to deal with their queues in an efficient manner which is a challenge given how busy they are. The food is of a consistently high standard and it’s always a delight to come here. Their prices are some of the lowest on the market, there’s a seating area and they have scraps to put on top of the chips.


    And that means, in first place is…..

    1ST PLACE : BODEGA

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    Just look at that, a packed pastrami sandwich which tasted as good as it looks. The service is friendly, efficient and it feels all very on-trend and customer focused. It’s not necessarily the cheapest option at the market, but the quality is so high that it justifies its price. For extra excitement, Toby’s Beer is located just one market row away to enjoy this decadent sandwich with a craft beer. So very lovely.


    Many thanks to Nathan for his help, always merrily chatting to stall holders and selflessly going for a different option to broaden out the reviews, whilst although James has often been inspired to have the same food as me, his photos have added a huge amount to the blog posts. Thanks also to everyone on the market, I’ve very much enjoyed this project.

  • Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 29 and Go Crepes

    Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 29 and Go Crepes

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    Here we are with the final instalment (for now) of my plan to eat at every food stall at Norwich Market, this time it’s Go Crepes.

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    There was a friendly welcome from the smartly dressed team member, who added some theatre to the whole proceedings with his style, not just in terms of his appearance but also in how he was preparing the food. There’s a choice between sweet and savoury crepes, with plenty of choice in terms of the ingredients. They accept cards and cash here, with everything looking spotlessly clean.

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    I went for sweet and here’s the start of preparing my Nutella, banana and coconut crepe.

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    Flipped over.

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    Here we go, neatly presented and generously filled with ingredients including lots of Nutella, a whole banana and plenty of coconut.

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    James went savoury with cheese, pepperoni and egg. This is his photo, as the better quality of the image perhaps makes obvious. That’s his hand too.

    James was suitably impressed, with the fillings being of a generous amount with his, plenty of cheese, four large slices of pepperoni and an egg. If I’m being honest, this isn’t necessarily my go to type of food as I find it a bit stodgy, but it was one of the best crepes that I’ve had. I felt that they represented very reasonable value for money, they tasted of a good quality and I liked the engagement and theatre from the team member. This was a marvellous visit to end of this project and there will shortly be a final results post 🙂 Oh the anticipation for my two loyal blog readers.

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Creation of a Lifeboat Service in Norfolk

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Creation of a Lifeboat Service in Norfolk

    Another post in my series of what was happening in Norwich 200 years ago this week.

    In November 1823, the Norwich Mercury published this letter:

    “Sir – We beg to request your attendance at a Meeting to be held at the Shirehall, at Norwich, at Two o’clock, on Saturday, the 22nd November, for the purpose of forming an Association for saving the Lives of Shipwrecked Mariners on the whole line of the Coast of Norfolk.

    The object of this Association will be raise Funds sufficient to place Life Boats and the Apparatus for saving Life, invented by Captain Manby and others, on different points where they may appear to be likely to be serviceable, and sufficient to give due recompense to persons as shall assist in cases of Shipwreck. Should you be unable to attend, may we beg that you will signify whether you are disposed to support such an Association by letter addressed to JJ Gurney, Esq, Norwich.

    Signed by John Wodehouse, Thomas William Cook, Edmond Wodehouse, Suffield.”

    The Norfolk Association for Saving the Lives of Shipwrecked Mariners was successfully founded and it became part of the RNLI in December 1857. The first lifeboat had been designed by Lionel Lukin in 1785 who patented what he called the world’s first unsinkable boat. There were some forward thinkers in Norfolk, as the RNLI wasn’t created until 4 March 1824. The readers of this letter to the newspaper in 1823 helped to create an institution which has saved hundreds of lives along the Norfolk coastline over the last 200 years.

  • Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 28 and Walsingham Farm Shop

    Food from Every Stall on Norwich Market – Week 28 and Walsingham Farm Shop

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    And we’re in the final week of eating at every food stall at Norwich Market and today’s visit was to the Walsingham Farm Shop. James and I are visiting the final stall tomorrow and our job here is done.

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    As a spoiler, I think it’s fair to say that this stall managed to confuse both James and I. Initially we thought that this display was misted up because of the warm pastries and pies inside.

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    The team member came over to clean the front of the display for us, which should have made it obvious to us that the food inside would not necessarily be warm as we thought it might be. But, look at how tempting this food selection is, this is all very me and my expectations were high.

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    I went for the turkey, stuffing and bacon pie which cost £4.95 and it was served cold. It’s fair to say that I had managed to be confused with the hot food signs at the unit. I’ve looked back at photos of this stall (and noted another customer has had this issue in a review that I hadn’t noticed earlier) and there appears to be a separate display board at the rear of the unit. The moral of this story is that don’t assume your customers aren’t idiots  🙂

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    And here’s the photo that James took, which is notably better than mine and so I’ll use this as the thumbnail once again.

    The pie was of a high quality but we did think just how good this would have been hot with gravy. There’s a small seating area at the stall and everything was clean and organised with some condiments available. Anyway, the pie was packed with the promised ingredients with the turkey being tender and the bacon adding flavour, and some cranberry sauce at the base of the pie. All really rather lovely and I felt that I received perfectly reasonable value for £4.95.

    Anyway, we were just about to leave when someone came with a hot pie, gravy and mash. They must have either been cleverer than us, more aware of their surroundings or it might have been explained to them differently. The shame about this is that if they had sold me a hot pie with gravy this would have been a contender for the best market stall when I announce the results to my two loyal readers tomorrow. But they didn’t, so they’re not.