Category: Norwich

  • Norwich – Compleat Angler (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Compleat Angler (Two Julians)

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    The fifth pub on our perambulation is the Greene King operated Compleat Angler, located near to Norwich’s main (well, only) railway station.

    The building has a complex history, it was built in around the 1840s and was opened as the Norfolk Railway House, but had other names such as the Toll House. It was renamed to be the Compleat Angler in 1974, although it had a brief spell as the Windsors between 1984 and 1988. The pub was originally a Bullards pub and they advertised in the local press in 1853 for someone to take over the lease of the pub. Later on, the venue was taken over by Anglia Taverns before becoming part of Chef & Brewer (George Plunkett took a photo of the building in 1988 when it was a Chef & Brewer pub). Then the years of pubco rapid expansion came and it was taken over by Scottish & Newcastle, then the Spirit Group, then Punch Taverns and then Greene King saw an opportunity to punish the locals and they took over in around 2018.

    The landlord in the 1870s was a man called Robert Rix and he also owned property, something that is known as he was summoned to court for failure to manage a well on his property in Canterbury Place in St. Benedict’s, but he “undertook to remedy the evil” which is handy…. Incidentally, I don’t specifically know why the pub name was chosen, but it relates to a book written by Izaak Walton in 1653. In the post-war period, a portion of the pub was known as the ‘Blue Room’ when it appeared to be more of a club arrangement.

    Here it is in the mid-1880s, although very much surrounded by the distillery and vinegar works. Around two years after this map was published, they replaced the 1844 lattice iron arch bridge which had been built to access the railway station with a new and more substantial structure. This new bridge, which is still there today, is 16 metres long and 15 metres wide and it was constructed in the station yard of Norwich Railway Station and then they rolled it onto the foundations of the older bridge. I’ve been told that the downstairs pub cellar has some evidence of an older structure which faced the road, but I’ve never been down there to have a look.

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    The entire bar is clean and tidy, although it’s perhaps a little formulaic and lacking in any authentic heritage. This isn’t helped by the numerous massive refurbishments that take place here every few years, although they’ve never really brought the downstairs into full usage and it was closed when we visited. For several years this pub was used as the pub for away football fans, but it reverted to being a pub that home fans could use instead from around 2019.

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    The food menu and there are a range of traditional pub meals available. In all fairness to the venue, the food reviews seem generally quite positive, so they’re clearly doing something right. However, a customer recently posted a photo of a saucer sized plate of chips:

    “Should be ashamed of themselves. Ordered “House seasoned” fries which cost £3.50. Received at most 10 normal fries with a dusting of salt. If you’re going to charge £3.50 for frozen fries at least give a decent amount.”

    I’m with the customer here having seen the photo, but the pub stood firm in their response:

    “Hello sorry that you weren’t happy with your visit today we unfortunately have a spec that we have to follow with weights of our products will raise this with our head office.”

    The team members here all seemed friendly and helpful, although it’s hard to engage about beer as they don’t really have anything to engage about. I suppose they could chat away about the nearby JD Wetherspoon outlet which sells Greene King IPA and Greene King Abbot, but also has seven guest beers. Anyway, I mustn’t sneer, beer is for the many and not the few. Although I’d personally prefer the many had more choices, I won’t go on and on about it….

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    OK, I might go on about it for a bit longer. Here is the beer choice and I can’t help feeling that the reason Greene King doesn’t offer a guest beer here is because no-one would drink any of the stuff that they brew themselves. Mind you, I’ve always been a bit cynical and Julian does nothing to discourage that. There’s nothing here of any great interest (to me anyway), it’s poorly curated in terms of different beer styles and the prices were towards the higher end of the scale. Other than for a few generic national brands, their ‘craft beer’ selection is stuff they brew themselves and is frankly about as desirable as Christmas in the middle of March. I remember when they did offer guest beers here, but this appears to be a thing of a past judging from the Untappd check-ins over recent months.

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    I decided that the beer that might be the one I would dislike the least would be the Spring Break from Greene King. It’s arguably a pointless beer (by arguably, I mean I’ll argue that), but I’ll give them that it’s a well-kept pointless beer although it was devoid really of any flavour or depth of taste. It saddens me that some great small brewers are struggling whilst Greene King occupies a beautiful building and sells this.

    There are a couple of negative reviews that the venue doesn’t have a disabled toilet and their defence is that as they’re a listed building they’re not allowed to make the changes. I’m puzzled about this, they’re not a traditionally listed building so they don’t have a Grade I or Grade II listing, but they do indeed have a local city listing. Given that their toilets are at one end of the building which is level and would enable disabled access, is it really the case that the council has refused a planning permission change to make some changes to these toilets? Historic England is generally very favourable to greater disability access in fully listed buildings, so this seems like a situation that the Compleat Anger are being treated a little unfairly if the council are indeed blocking disabled toilets.

    I can’t help thinking what a wonderful pub this could be if Greene King sold it to another operator, although that might be being unkind. Having noted that, Jay Rayner has inspired me to have some semblance of honesty, so there we go. In terms of the positives, it has a prime site, it’s large in size and there are rather lovely river views from their terrace area, but I can’t forget their lack of guest ales and that all of the five beers they have on cask are rated towards the lower end of the scale on Untappd. Anyway, the team members were friendly, the pub was clean, the beer was well-kept and the surroundings were comfortable, but it’s not really a pub that is aimed at me as I like beer. I don’t think that Julian will mind me saying that it’s not really a pub that will be high on his repeat list, but I think in his eyes every pub is aimed at him if I’m being honest.

  • Norwich – Coach and Horses – Thorpe Road (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Coach and Horses – Thorpe Road (Two Julians)

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    The fourth pub in our perambulation for the evening was the Coach and Horses on Thorpe Road, which also happened to be the third Good Beer Guide pub we visited in a row. We do like to treat ourselves, but that’s not to say that being this thorough in our pub visiting is easy. Before beginning on the history of the pub, these outside canopies have been the end result of some controversy with the council not liking the previous marquee arrangement that the owners put into place.

    The building was constructed in 1811 and it became a pub soon afterwards, being operated by brewers including Youngs, Bullards and Watney Mann, before it became free trade. From the middle of the nineteenth century, the pub had the advantage of finding itself near the city’s new railway station, and later on it found itself near Norwich City’s ground, the Nest, until it moved to Carrow Road in 1935. All of this exciting trade must have been positive as the pub advertised for “a respectable boy for after school hours” in the local press in 1907. A news report noted in 1873:

    “Before J. BETTS, E. K. HARVEY, and F. BROWN, Esqs. Henry Brewster, smith, Chalk Hill, was summoned for assaulting Detective Wigley, on the 3rd of May.-Mr. Stanley defended.-For the complainant it was stated that on the day in question there was a disturbance at the Coach and Horses, Thorpe-road, and the defendant, who was creating it, was taken into custody by Wigley and handed over to Police-constable Thurston, from whom he managed to escape. In the course of the row, the defendant declared that none of the party should be taken, and struck Wigley with his elbow and kicked him in the leg. Both defendant and his brother also threatened, when at their father’s house, to which they had been pursued, to knock Wigley’s brains out with a linen prop. For the defence it was alleged that the disturbance, which arose over a game of skittles, was not of so great a character as had been stated, and that the complainant’s son was as bad as anybody, and that the complainant was not justified in taking the defendant into custody. The blow and the kick were both denied.-Defendant was sent to gaol for a month, and in default of paying 15s. costs, to be further imprisoned for fourteen days’ hard labour.”

    Well, that’s sub-optimal, threatening to knock someone’s brains out with a linen prop. And, it arose over a game of skittles, I’m just glad that bar billiards doesn’t cause such upset and anger. In 1866, there was some counterfeit money doing the rounds:

    “Henry Goff, lodging at the Wild Man, St. Andrew’s, commission-man, was charged with attempting to pass a counterfeit shilling at the Coach and Horses public-house, Thorpe-road. It appeared that the prisoner went into the Coach and Horses on Friday afternoon for a pint of beer, and tendered a counterfeit shilling in payment. Mrs. Catermole told him it was a bad one, and he then handed prosecutor a good fourpenny piece. Prosecutor marked the shilling and returned it, and subsequently sent for Detective Wigley, during which time a man, who had entered the house with the prisoner, left. Detective Wigley produced the coin which he had received from the prosecutor, and another counterfeit shilling which he found upon the prisoner when he apprehended him. The coins were similar, but of of the same date, as those found last week, in the process of manufacture. Prisoner told Wigley that he did not know how he became possessed of the money. The room in which the prisoner lodged was searched, but nothing further found. The case was adjourned till Friday, in order that a communication may be made with the Mint authorities.”

    And then just weeks later:

    “Henry Croft (35), machine maker, was indicted for tendering and uttering to James Cattermole, a counterfeit coin, viz., one shilling, knowing the same to be false and counterfeit, and that he at the same time had in his possession another counterfeit shilling, on the 8th day of June, 1866.—Mr. Cooper prosecuted, and Mr. Mayd defended the prisoner. It was stated in evidence that the prisoner called at the Coach and Horses public-house, kept by the prosecutor, at Thorpe, and tendered a bad shilling in payment for a pint of beer which he ordered. Prosecutor said that the shilling was a bad one, and told the prisoner so. Prisoner said he had no more money with him, but afterwards said he thought he could find a fourpenny piece. Prosecutor took the shilling, which he did not return to the prisoner, to police-constable Wigley, after having put a mark upon it. No surprise was expressed by the prisoner when he was informed that the shilling was a bad one. Wigley soon came to the Coach and Horses, and saw the prisoner, whom he searched, when he found another counterfeit shilling. He then took the prisoner, who said he did not know how the money came into his possession, into custody, and afterwards searched his lodgings, but found nothing suspicious. The spurious coins were taken to Mr. Ralfs’, silversmith, who immediately pronounced them to be base. Mr. Mayd put it to the jury whether the statement of the prisoner, that he did not know how the coins came into his possession, was not true, contending that his conduct was perfectly compatible with its having come into his hands in the ordinary course. He remarked upon the fact that the prisoner had not been found to be dealing with spurious coins elsewhere, and that when searched no silver paper in which bad money was usually wrapped to keep it bright, was found upon him. Mr. Mayd also pointed out to the jury that the dates upon the shillings were “1860,” and “1865,” this being a-other circumstance in his favour; but the Recorder, in summing up, put a different construction upon them. He observed that the coins, although purporting to be made in different years, were remarkably alike in every other respect, the foil upon that dated “1860” being as clearly defined as upon that dated “1865.” That fact weighed heavily against the prisoner. Again, if a man like the prisoner, having but little money, were told that the shilling he was tendering was a bad one, he would have expressed some surprise at the circumstance, and as to how it came into his possession; but the prisoner said nothing at all respecting it. The prisoner was found guilty, and sentenced to twelve calendar months’ imprisonment.”

    In 1878, the brewery Youngs decided they wanted to build a rather lovely new building on the corner of Foundry Bridge (now known as Thorpe Road in this section) and Rosary Road and they were willing to forfeit the licence at the Coach and Horses which was nearly next door to their proposed site. It caused something of a scene locally and the newspaper reported in some detail about the matter:

    “The proposed house would not be close up to the corner. Whether this application was acceded to or not, Mr. Young intended to build on the land in question. As there was a want of dwellings for artizans in the neighborhood Mr. Youngs intended, if the application were not granted, to build cottages of 10l. rental from the point to the Coach and Horses, and also beyond the public-house, which would still remain. On the other hand, if the application were granted, the cottages would be built between the new public-house and the site of the tea gardens, which would be abolished. Mr. Reeve asked whether if the license were granted, 10l. cottages would be built; and Mr. Burton, the architect, replied that a better class would, in that case, be erected. Mr. Chittock said the question was whether a better public-house should be erected at the corner, or the present inconvenient house should remain. Mr. Bolingbroke asked whether there would be any gardens attached to the new house, and Mr. Chittock replied that there would be none. He then called Mr. Burton, architect, who put in plans of the proposed alterations, and Mr. C. H. Capon, who said that the proposed alteration would be an improvement upon the present condition of the property. Mr. G. A. Stevens opposed the application on behalf of the vicar and churchwardens of St. Matthew, and the principal inhabitants of Thorpe Hamlet, who had placed a memorial in his hands for presentation to the Licensing Justices. The memorial was signed by 63 persons, nearly all residing in the hamlet, representing the rateable value of 3500l., and a gross value of between 70,000l. and 80,000l. The memorialists affirmed that there was no necessity for additional public-house accommodation in the hamlet, and that the proposed transfer of the existing license from the Coach and Horses to a new building on the triangular piece of land would be most objectionable, and seriously depreciate the value of all property in that locality.

    The present licensed houses, with the adjacent gardens, were now a considerable nuisance to the neighbourhood, especially on Sunday evenings and general holidays; and if the license was granted to the prominent site proposed, the memorialists urged that the nuisance and annoyance would be increased ten-fold. The Mayor supposed that the memorialists were aware that it was intended to abolish the tea gardens. Mr. Stevens replied in the affirmative, and then backed up his memorial by reading letters from the Revs. G. W. Pierpoint, W. H. Cooke, and G. S. Barrett. The Rev. W. H. Cooke wrote that the chief motive for the alteration must be to entice the frequenters of the road into the proposed public-house. As the road was now almost unfit to traverse on Sunday evenings in consequence of the disgraceful language and rough conduct of many walkers thereon, it might be easily imagined what would be the effect of offering to the public greater temptations for selling refreshments. The Rev. G. S. Barrett submitted that the transfer was unnecessary, and would be prejudicial to the value of the property near the proposed site. Moreover, the present position of the house met all reasonable requirements, and any change would very likely add to the inconvenience and disorders to which the inhabitants of Thorpe were subject on Sunday evenings. Another letter in a similar strain from Mr. S. S. Hill was also read. Mr. Stevens denied that what was asked for was a public improvement. There had not been shown to be any desire on the part of the neighbourhood for any better accommodation than that which existed. Mr. Youngs some time ago bought the public-house and gardens, and afterwards the strip of land at the point. That point had been a great advantage to the neighbourhood, and to the citizens generally because of the beauty of the clump of trees. Of course Mr. Youngs could not be expected to allow the property to remain untouched; but to say that it would be an improvement to have a public-house in lieu of the trees was to state that which was absurd. The object of the transfer was to have a large flaunting public-house at the apex of the triangle, with a convenient plain in front of it, where, beneath the trees, which they were told were to remain, people would sit on holidays and perhaps during Sunday evenings. Such a house he contended would increase the number of people who now swarmed up the Prince of Wales’-road and Foundry-road on Sunday evenings, require the attention of extra policemen, and tend to create more of the annoyance of which complaint bad from time to time been made. In conclusion, he said the people of the hamlet would prefer the cottages to the big public-house Mr. Chittock replied to the long address of Mr. Stevens by stating that even Mr. Youngs would agree with the memorialists that there was no need for further public-houses, and that the tea gardens were a nuisance, for he did not ask for further accommodation, and he proposed to do away with the gardens. As to Mr. Stevens’ picture of the parties under the trees in front of the house, Mr. Youngs would permit nothing of the kind.”

    The plan didn’t work out, although I was amused by the “disgraceful language and rough conduct” of the locals. And people swarming up Prince of Wales Road, so this isn’t just a new thing in the evening.

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    Back to today though, it was busy inside but it was good to see Matt and he mentioned that a large number of people were there as part of a leaving do. Although it was busy, we were served promptly and the team member seemed knowledgeable and engaging. We were also fortunate to see one empty table, so that made matters a little more comfortable than trying to prop ourselves up at the bar. This venue seems to get something of a mix of customers, from those seeking real ale, locals, those planning to get a drink before catching their train or tourists who have just arrived in the city.

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    The beer board isn’t necessarily the easiest to see, but it is up there. There is a brewery on-site, the Chalk Hill Brewery, which was formed in 1993 so has been going for some time and the landlord, David and Rosemary Blake, have been here for the same period of time. There was a decent selection of five beers from the on-site brewery and there were a couple of guests as well, with cask and keg options available. They have numerous events here including quizzes and live music, with sports being shown on large screens which are located both inside and outside.

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    I can’t remember ever eating here so I can’t comment on that, but there is food served during lunchtimes and in the evening. The on-line reviews of the food seem positive, so it all seems entirely agreeable.

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    I went for the Ruby Spiced which is brewed by Chalk Hill Brewery and it was a better red ale than I had been anticipating. I like a bit of cinnamon in a beer and it felt like it was Christmas again with the additional flavour of cloves. Julian went for the Chalk Hill Brewery’s CHB session bitter which he seemed satisfied with.

    The pub was welcoming and comfortable, with the beer prices being reasonable and the selection of drinks being broad. The service was friendly, the surroundings were laid-back and I’d say that this is a rather good addition to the Good Beer Guide.

  • Norwich – Fat Cat and Canary (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Fat Cat and Canary (Two Julians)

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    The Fat Cat and Canary, the third in our perambulation of the evening and this pub is also listed in the Good Beer Guide. The pub was opened as the East End Retreat (and there is a West End Retreat) in around 1850, but renamed the Mustard Pot in 1966 and then renamed the Fat Cat and Canary in 2012. The pub was operated by Lacons Brewery from the beginning of the twentieth century and then taken over by Whitbread when they purchased Lacons. Adnams bought the pub in 1995 and then it was purchased by Colin Keatley, of Fat Cat fame, in 2012. The first operators of the pub were Seaman, Grimmer & Co who were wine merchants and they advertised for a tenant in 1857.

    What’s perhaps more than a little sad is that the earliest reference I can find to the pub in newspapers is from the Norwich Mercury of 1854:

    “On Saturday, an inquest was held by Mr. Wilde, city coroner, at the East End Retreat, Thorpe, on the body of a female full-grown infant. The body was found on Friday morning in the Wensum, nearly opposite the East End Retreat public house. It was tied up in a piece of stuff, and was very decomposed, having apparently been in the water for some time. As no further information could be obtained, the jury returned a verdict of “Found drowned.””

    The landlord in 1907 seems quite a rogue, the local press reported:

    “George Green, landlord of the East End Retreat public-house, Thorpe-road, was summoned by his wife, Maria Green, of 11, Salisbury Road, who alleged desertion and applied for a separation order. Mr. E. A. Bracey appeared for complainant, who, he said, was married to defendant 42 years ago. Recently he had turned her out of doors no less than ten times. On the last occasion she was serving in the bar when he came home in a drunken state in the evening, after having been out all day, and when his wife remonstrated with him he struck her on the head and told her to leave the house or he would murder her. She went out on to the plain in front of the house, and defendant again threatened to murder her if she returned to it. In consequence of these threats and his ill-treatment she had gone to live with her daughter in Salisbury Road. – Complainant was called in support of Mr. Bracey’s statement, and eventually the case was adjourned for a week with the object of the parties coming to a private arrangement.”

    George Green was only at the pub for a couple of years, which was probably for the best. The next landlord, Stephen Bowen, had the unfortunate situation soon after taking over that the till was robbed by a 22 year old called Charles Horsfall, who lived in London and stole over £1.

    It was reported by the local press in 1917 that:

    “Henry Johnson, licensed victualler, East End Retreat, Thorpe Road, was summoned for supplying Ellen Druary with intoxicating liquor which had not been ordered and paid for by her, on the 6th inst., and Stephen Druary, Thorpe St. Andrew, was summoned for paying for the intoxicating liquor, for consumption by Ellen Druary on the same date.–Both defendants pleaded guilty.–Johnson was fined 10s. and Druary 5s.”

    Quite a hard punishment perhaps, but there was something of a tough policy on this during a time when they were trying to cut the number of pubs.

    I also saw that there was a bagatelle board for sale at the pub in July 1870, it had a slate bottom and was priced at £5 which sounds rather pricey to me. There are a few pubs with these tables today, but the delight that is bar billiards has somewhat taken over now in this fine city.

    Incidentally, I will note here for the sake of completion that the last time I came here the sole member of bar staff had in my view risked looking like that they had lost control of the venue, the only time I’ve experienced that in Norwich and so a friend and I just left. On the positive side, it was mentioned to me at the time by some other people that the incident that occurred was entirely out of character for the venue, and that certainly seems to be the case which is most fortunate as I’ve always rather liked this pub. I think I’d say that they were a little unfortunate with the group of customers that came in who seemed to be rather enthusiastic in terms of their enjoyment expectations. Either which way, it’s certainly a perfectly well run pub again, which is most reassuring. The pub is relatively near to Norwich City’s ground and it’s popular on football days and the mural on the side is something of a hint to this sporting connection.

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    Half of the beer board and there’s a fine choice of primarily real ale, but there are some interesting keg options as well. The prices were verging towards the lower end of the scale, so there’s value for money offered.

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    The other half of the board which contains the cider options. There’s plenty of character to the pub, with a seating area at the front near the bar and then a longer section towards the rear of the venue which has some more seating.

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    I go for Titanic just about every time I see it and this has the new branding from my favourite British brewery. The service was friendly, efficient and engaging, with everyone being served in turn.

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    I went for the Plum Porter which was well kept and it was suitably delicious, fruitiness from the plum and nicely rounded. When we visited on a Friday evening, there was only one table free and that had a coat and helmet on, but Julian wisely sat there and he correctly predicted that someone had just left it and was unlikely to be sitting there. He’s a proper pub professional is Julian, his sixty years drinking in pubs have really paid off. The pub was busy, but the atmosphere was relaxed, informal and comfortable, with everything feeling clean and organised. Definitely another solid choice for the Good Beer Guide and the beer selection was a delight.

  • Norwich – Jubilee (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Jubilee (Two Julians)

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    This was the second on our latest perambulation around Norwich pubs and it’s the Jubilee, which opened in 1887 making it a traditional Victorian corner pub. During its time it has been a Bullards, Watney Mann and Courage pub. Named after the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria in 1887, although rather oddly, the pub was renamed Hanover House between 1982 and 1987. I didn’t give it much attention until looking at it in this photo, but I rather like the plaque above the door which mentions numerous countries which were under the influence (to give it a drinking phrase) at the time, including Malta, Cyprus, Egypt, Canada, Australia and numerous others.

    Back in 1897, the pub was advertising their bowling green (visible in this 1880s map), although that has long since gone and there are now houses on the site.

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    The beer list, with some interesting keg and cask options and a fair number from Beartown. The pub has quite a modern feel to it in terms of the beer selection and it’s also listed in the Good Beer Guide. There’s a long L-shaped bar, with this bit at the end being where we ordered. At the rear of the pub there’s also a large conservatory and small garden area. The service was friendly, immediate and polite, with the pub feeling busy although rather less, er, vibrant than the King William IV that we had just visited. It’s evident that these two pubs have different customer bases, although it surprised me just how few pubs there are in this area given some recent closures.

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    I went for the 4.7% ABV Bobby Dazzler from Beartown, stone fruit flavours and a depth of taste, rather decent. Julian went for the Lit from Beartown which he noted on Untappd as “a nice fresh bitter, with distinctive hippiness” which seems reasonable.

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    What I assume was the pub dog merrily jumping around the place and having a look at what was going on.

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    I like pubs that offer this willingly when they don’t serve hot food of their own.

    I haven’t taken much to this pub on a couple of past visits, but they were some time ago and I thought it was all rather pleasant on this visit with friendly staff, a clean environment and a decent selection of beers. I’m sure that there will be another perambulation this way in the not too distant future and it seems to me a very worthwhile entry into the Good Beer Guide.

  • Norwich – King William IV (Two Julians)

    Norwich – King William IV (Two Julians)

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    The King William IV pub is located at 33 Quebec Road in the Thorpe Hamlet area of the city and was the first in our latest perambulation.

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    The pub is in elevated position which is why Julian used his electric bike to get there and I reminded myself that the city council needs to do more removing some of these hills which really slow down walking times. There was originally a shepherd’s cottage on this site which would have likely been used by the shepherd tending his furry flock on the nearby Mousehold Health.

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    The first mention of the pub was in 1834, although it was likely trading a little before that. However, it’s named after the Monarch who was King between 1830 and 1837, so I imagine that it must have opened under this name between 1830 and 1834. It was also known as the William IV Tavern and Tea Gardens, making it sound like a cafe where Norwich residents rewarded themselves after climbing up there. It was a Youngs, Crawshay & Youngs pub for most of the Victorian period, before later becoming part of the Bullards, Watney Mann and then Norwich Brewery estates. Julian and I were talking yesterday about holding political meetings in pubs and this one was used by the Liberal Party in the late nineteenth century for their meetings, so there’s a little political history here.

    The naming of the venue initially seem a little unclear to me, there are references to the William IV pub and also the Mousehold Tea Gardens throughout the period between the 1830s and 1890s, but the landlord seems the same and so the name seems a little interchangeable. However, a newspaper article in 1885 notes that “the King William IV public house is better known as Mousehold Tea Gardens” which explains the situation. In that same article, there’s a rather gruesome report about the deep well that was located in the pub’s beer garden. It was noted “in the afternoon that water from the well was unfit for use” and the reason for this soon became clear, a lady called Harriet Meens had fallen into it and died. The inquest decided that it was suicide and I imagine it put people off using the water for some time.

    The Norfolk News mentioned in 1886 that Robert Baldry, a Tombland auctioneer, had been instructed to sell the household furniture of the outgoing landlord of the Mousehold Tea Gardens, namely George Randall Laws. In September 1847, it was reported that John Whitlam had died at his home in the morning after he fell down his stairs. The inquest noted that he had “been jovially regaling himself the previous evening at the Mousehold Tea Gardens”, so I think we can establish what might have happened there.

    I’ve already mentioned one suicide that happened at the pub, but this story is from the EDP in April 1897:

    “TRAGIC AFFAIR AT THORPE – SCENE IN TELEGRAPH LANE.

    About half-past ten yesterday morning a man, named Charles Hudson, aged 38, of 95, St. Leonard’s Road, Thorpe Hamlet, made a determined attempt to take his own life in the presence of his son, a lad aged twelve years. It appears that Hudson, who was in the employ of the Great Eastern Railway, had been unwell for the past few days, and his wife is also seriously ill. In consequence of the condition of his wife, he slept on Thursday night in an arm chair downstairs. Shortly after ten yesterday morning he left the house. His son, knowing that he had been queer in his mind, at once left the house to follow his father up. Hudson, after walking along St. Leonard’s Road, turned into Telegraph Lane, and when about 100 yards from his house produced a shoemaker’s knife from his pocket and commenced cutting his throat. The little fellow pluckily attempted to get the knife away from his father, but failing in his efforts at once ran off to the house of a man named Phillips, who lives close by, and informed him of what was taking place. Phillips immediately ran to the spot, and knocked the knife out of Hudson’s hand, but the unfortunate man had by that time inflicted a severe gash in his throat, and was bleeding profusely, a large pool of blood marking the spot where he had stood. Very shortly Police-constable Whall came upon the scene, and the man’s neck having been roughly bound up, James Ellis, the landlord of the King William IV, public-house was communicated with, and he immediately put his pony in a trap and drove the unfortunate man, who was unable to speak, to the Norfolk and Norwich Hospital. There his injuries were dressed by the medical staff, and he was placed in one of the wards. On inquiry at the Hospital we were informed that Hudson was in a very precarious condition.”

    James Ellis was landlord of the pub for around 15 years at the end of the nineteenth century and bless that poor lad who did what he could.

    The area in the late nineteenth century was becoming more residential. The pub is the PH in the middle of the above map, all at a time when Mousehold Heath was finding itself getting smaller and smaller.

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    Back to the present day and was perhaps not the best first thing to see and I don’t know what’s happened here.

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    The beer options were a little wider than I expected, although there was no real ale. The prices were, slightly surprisingly perhaps, towards the higher end of the scale. I was served out of turn, but a different server came along and she was helpful and efficient. In terms of the atmosphere, this was I would say the most vibrant atmosphere that we’ve encountered inside a venue, but it’s always positive to see a pub with lots of customers. I’m slightly less excited about showing game shows on a large TV behind the bar, but each to their own I guess.

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    There is a large beer garden and we escaped to this for a quieter al fresco drinking experience as the noise volume was a touch higher than we would have liked. Julian is a party animal at heart, but there are limits to even his earthiness.

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    It’s a beautiful building with some period features, although the smoking shelter doesn’t perhaps entirely blend in.

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    There’s a little BBQ element as well, I can imagine that this proves popular in the summer months. It’s possible to hire the entire venue for parties and they also have rooms upstairs which are quite expensive, but are well reviewed.

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    The beer was the Alpacalypse from Salt Brewery which I had in their Leeds taproom a couple of weeks ago. It’s light, juicy, tropical and very drinkable.

    It’s an interesting venue and I think it would have been a somewhat different experience if we hadn’t visited on a Friday night. There are a couple of pool tables and a darts board, with the pub having a community feel to it. It’s probably not the place to visit for a quiet drink, but it’s obviously hitting the mark at getting trade in which is a happy experience for any pub at the moment.

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Packet Boat Trip to Rotterdam

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Packet Boat Trip to Rotterdam

    I rather liked this advertisement from the Norwich Mercury 200 years ago this month.

    “It having been intimated that a Trip over to the Dutch Coast, the ensuing Summer, would be very desirable, the Directors beg leave to inform the Friends to this Establishment, that on Saturday, the 18th of June, at Six o’clock in the Evening, the LOWTHER will leave Yarmouth for Rotterdam, where she will arrive early the following Morning, and will return on the 25th, at the same hour. The Packet will be solely fitted up for Passengers. The After-Cabins will be entirely appropriated for Ladies, and the Fore-Cabin and Holds will be fitted up for Gentlemen, and every arrangement will be made to secure a pleasant passage

    Fare to Rotterdam and back …. £2. 2s.

    As a limited number can only be accommodated, all desirous of going will apply for Births as soon as possible to Messrs. Boardman and Harmer, Norwich; Mr. William Borrett, Yarmouth; or to Mr. Richard Clay, at the Company’s Office, Selby.”

    Although this packet ship most likely usually carried cargo, I liked that there was an element of this being entirely a passenger trip where people could see Rotterdam. In today’s money that’s about £150 return so not unreasonable, although it’s somewhat cheaper and quicker to fly 200 years later. I’d rather like to know who went on this trip, was it tourists wanting to see the Netherlands, was it business people or was it the idle rich?

  • Norwich – Coach and Horses on Union Street (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Coach and Horses on Union Street (Two Julians)

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    And my now usual apology that the photos are from the dying days of my last phone, sorry for the low quality of them. I have to confess that I didn’t know that there was a third Coach and Horses pub in Norwich, the other two get more attention and we will visit them in due course on our travels. Julian, who has spent time in every pub in the city, was of course aware of the existence of this venue although it was my first time there. This one, located on Union Street where it meets Coach and Horses Street, although the number of pubs with this name makes it harder to discover more about its history. Slightly surprisingly, there have only been four pubs with this name in the history of the city (according to the excellent https://www.norfolkpubs.co.uk/) and three of them are still open. The venue became a pub in the 1830s and it has been operated by John Hardy, Lacons, Whitbread and is now owned by Admiral Taverns. George Plunkett has a rather lovely photo of it from its time as a Lacons pub when a lovely new shiny housing estate was built around it. The Norfolk Pubs web-site mentions that it was a French restaurant for a period, but I can’t find out anything about that, but will add it to this page if anyone lets me know. Actually, I should add, if anyone has anything interesting to tell me about any pub which we visit, then do let me know.

    On that Nick Stone (https://www.invisibleworks.co.uk/) helpfully adds:

    “What’s interesting about it from a urban geography perspective is it doesn’t actually align with Walpole Street which is the corner it sits on, that’s at an entirely different angle to the building so the eastern face of the building actually lines up with Coach and Horses Street which ran at right angles to Union Street but no longer exists. Bear in mind this whole area was extensively damaged several times from 1941 to 1943, especially on the Vauxhall Street, Essex Street and Rupert Street side of the area which was possibly blast from an aerial mine, the redevelopment was inevitable post-war as so little was left of what now forms the park and Suffolk Square. It’s quite rare that it still retains it’s form when so much was knocked down. The Vauxhall Tavern which used to be on the corner of Walpole and Vauxhall was interesting, a proper post-war kinda-prefab estate-pub job from what I can remember of it, think it was demolished in the late nineties or early noughties. That had replaced the original building which was destroyed by the raid on 18th Feb 1941, killing the landlord Fred Murrell and his family. Shame it’s gone really.”

    Here it is in the 1880s and it feels a slight shame that its address is usually given as Union Street, rather than the Coach and Horses Street which is named after it. I’m sure that there’s a story behind Jeremiah Scales, the landlord between 1879 and 1884, who put an advert in the local paper when he left saying that “I won’t be responsible for any debts contracted by my wife Harriet Scales”, it all sounds most intriguing.

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    There’s no real ale available and I was struggling to find anything interesting, although Guinness is available as a fall back. I’ve never had it before, but I went for the Mann’s Brown Ale which is brewed by Marston’s. I’ll likely never have it again, it was OK in so much as there was a slight taste of toffee but I’d say that there was more taste of cupboard than anything else. The Quavers were delicious though. Julian liked it more, but I think he likes beers that taste of cupboard. I more look for some sour which tastes of decadent tart fruit or an imperial stout laden with cherries and coconut.

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    The photo quality doesn’t make this evident, but the Guinness pump has chargers coming out of it, which seems a marvellous idea to me.

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    The bar arrangement and the staff member was merrily taking photos of their collection of board games. There is a community feel to this pub and there are events such as karaoke that take place here. During our visit, there was a customer who was quite vibrant and excitable in his demeanour, but that’s not a criticism of the pub as the staff dealt with him perfectly well and it felt like a pub that the local community are happy with. We were made welcome and I felt comfortable during the visit and it’s important to support venues like this as it’s easy to overlook them given how close they are to the huge number of options in Norwich city centre. It’s an interesting venue and although it was relatively quiet when we visited, it has been seemingly doing well for several years under its current ownership which is quite marvellous.

  • Norwich – Coachmakers Arms (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Coachmakers Arms (Two Julians)

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    Apologies again for the poor photo quality, they were taken on my old phone which has fortunately been replaced since we visited this pub in mid-February on one of our perambulations around Norwich. This was our visit to the Coachmakers Arms on St. Stephen’s Road in Norwich, a pub which dates to the seventeenth century and is a former coaching inn apparently built on the site of a former asylum. The record of it being a pub date to the mid-eighteenth century and the breweries who have owned it include the Tompson Brewery, Morgans, Steward & Patteson, Watney Mann, Norwich Brewery and Tager Inns and there’s more about the latter on the page about the Cricketers’ Rest which isn’t far away.

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    The pub has an external mural by John Moray-Smith (1889–1958) and he also created the one at Berstrete Gates.

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    Julian parking his bike in the courtyard and there was a major crime committed here in 1905….. The text from the local newspaper of the time reads:

    “CHARGE AGAINST A SCHOOLBOY DISMISSED

    Charles James Nichols, schoolboy, of Sixteen Row, Lakenham, was charged with stealing a box containing 14 lbs. of raisins, value 3s. 4d., the property of George Daniel Tann, between November 21st and 24th. Mrs. Bloom stated that last Thursday afternoon a number of boys made a cave at the bottom of her garden on Sigismund Road. She heard them talking about plums, and afterwards found a coat belonging to one of them on the ground and some raisins. A little boy, aged about ten, who said he was with the defendant all the afternoon was called as a witness; but the Clerk said it would not be fair to him to ask him to incriminate himself, and his evidence was dispensed with. The ostler at the Coachmakers’ Arms, St. Stephen’s, said that on the 21st inst. several boxes of raisins, belonging to the prosecutor, were left in the yard. George Tann, a grocer, of Forncett, said there should have been ten boxes. He did not count them, and did not miss one until the policeman made inquiries. The Clerk said it appeared difficult to connect the defendant with the case, which seemed to be one of confession. The defendant’s mother said the lad was no trouble at home. He was never out at night. The Chairman said if he was not better looked after he would bring her to sorrow. There was a difficulty about the case, and it would be dismissed.”

    The lad became an “habitual criminal” (I always think of Norman Stanley Fletcher when hearing that phrase) according to police records in 1913 and he had taken to the theft of cycles, which ties in back to Julian parking his bike there quite neatly. He went on to fight in the First World War (Charles, not Julian) with, I think, some distinction and he went on to have a long life.

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    The courtyard area which I can imagine is busy during sporting events. The building is Grade II listed and I’ll just quote from the listed building record:

    “Former use unknown, now Public House. C17 and Late C18 Rendered. Stucco quoins and window surrounds. Black pantile roof. 3 storeys, 4 bays. Off-centre door with plain surround and small decorated consoles supporting a flat hood. One sash window to each side with 3 lights per sash. Raised and moulded, eared and haunched surrounds with keystone. Sash windows to first floor with identical surrounds to ground floor windows. 2nd floor sash windows with simple raised and moulded surrounds. Projecting, moulded box- cornice. Hipped roof. C17 ceiling beams with knicked chamfer-stops. Large frieze on wall to right showing St. Stephen’s Gate by Moray-Smith, 1937.”

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    The beer selection, although it wasn’t entirely clear what they did have. I ordered two beers from these pump clips and was told they were unavailable so I thought it best to ask what they did actually have and I wasn’t sure that I was any the wiser, but I think they had the Silver Adder from Mauldons, the Abbot Ale from Greene King and the Old Speckled Hen from Morland (Greene King). I think, but wasn’t told, that customers should ignore the pump clips and just look at the barrels as there’s gravity dispense.

    As can be seen from this advert from 1873, the serving directly from the barrel is nothing new. Victoria Station, which was located opposite, hadn’t served passengers since 1916 but it remained open for freight traffic although the buildings were damaged during the Second World War and pulled down soon after. The station site was replaced with offices occupied by Marsh, but they were taken down in late 2024 and early 2025 which must have impacted the pub’s trade a little. Not unlike other pubs, they advertised for a ‘girl’ in 1913, noting they wanted one aged around 25 and from the country. They didn’t want any city folk, whether older or younger, cluttering up their residence.

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    I went for the Silver Adder from Mauldons, which was crisp, hoppy and well-kept, but it’s all a bit light on flavour for me.

    There is food served on weekday lunches and the pub was clean and tidy, with the interior feeling historic and interesting. The on-line reviews are positive and the service during our visit was friendly and efficient. The beer selection wasn’t really my cup of tea, or indeed jug of beer, although the Oscar Wilde would have been my choice if they did have it. The pub also sells Cruzcampo, but I make no comment as I don’t judge…. There’s quite a cosy atmosphere and there’s also an upstairs function room.

  • Norwich – The York (Two Julians)

    Norwich – The York (Two Julians)

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    Taken during one of our perambulations, apologies that these photos were taken during the dying days of my last phone, so the quality of the imagery isn’t exactly top notch. The York is a traditional Victorian corner pub which opened in 1878 and it has been owned by breweries including Bullards, Watney Mann, Courage in the past. I didn’t go and check on this occasion, although I have done before, but there’s a large beer garden out the back which used to be a bowling green and the pub’s web-site notes that there’s now “a Pétanque pitch in the pub garden – a nod to The York bowling club who were based at The York in the early 1920s”. Incidentally, the pub has traditionally been called the York Tavern, although it’s usually shortened to just the York now.

    In 1907, the funeral of the landlord Alfred Dashwood took place, he appears regularly in newspapers and seems to have been an interesting character. He had started his career as a plumber and gas-fitter before becoming landlord here and he had built up the bowling club to be “one of the principal clubs in Norwich” which is some considerable achievement for the period (I assume, I think it’s like being the home of the best bar billiards team). He was also active in the Eaton Ward Conservative Association the Norfolk Chronicle mentioned after his funeral, but maybe that’s what happens when you become a pub landlord. I’ll check with Julian. He had been advertising for a servant (Alfred that is, not Julian) and preferred “a country girl” and he had hoped that she would be about 18. I’m not sure that publicans are best advised to advertise for that sort of thing now.

    The Westminster Gazette noted the fate of a later landlord, Albert Plane who had taken over in 1908, previously known only to the local press as someone caught refusing to admit the police to his premises. There was something of a tragedy, as the newspaper reported in May 1922:

    “Albert Plane, licensee of the York Tavern, rose to his family cups of tea, and later was found lying dead at the foot of the stairs. He had suffered from influenza and latterly was affected by the heat”.

    I’m not sure I’ll walk by the bottom of the stairs again without thinking of this.

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    Just looking back at some photos from 2021, this might be a clearer photo of outside.

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    And some old photos of outside, I can’t remember why Nathan and I were sitting outside. It was either because it was full inside or I wanted to see this large beer garden.

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    Back to modern times and the official visit from the Two Julians (we never announce in advance that we’re coming, we don’t want any red carpet quickly thrown outside for us). There were three real ales on, the Sussex Best from Harvey’s, the All Day Long from All Day Brewing Company and the Let’s Cask from All Day Brewing Company. I went for the latter option first, which was smooth with slight Twix flavours and was well kept. As can be seen, there’s often usually a fourth ale as well, but the Encore from Lacons had just run out.

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    Tom is very good at posing for photos and I will declare that I’ve gone to see the rather formidable bar talent that is Mr Saunders a few times now at the York.

    His Untappd page is a thing of beauty with his 10,294 check-ins…. Above is a photo of the day after he got his 10,000th check-in when I popped in to congratulate him. Anyway, enough about him and back to the main event of Julian and myself. The pub was spotlessly clean, with the surfaces clean, dry and not sticky, so it was a comfortable place to sit for a while.

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    I was planning to go home, but due to some confusion between Julian and I, he seemed to think we were staying out until 03:00 rather than the 19:00 that I had anticipated. However, I went along with his plan as I can be easily led. With that, the food menu appeared.

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    The York does an evening meal deal thing for £12 which includes a pint of real ale, a rather agreeable deal. The deal, of which I got the last one, was the venison sausages with braised cabbage, mash potatoes and a red onion gravy. Julian had some decadent steak option, but he’s getting quite middle class if I’m being honest ever since he’s become a senior pub executive. Anyway, the sausages were meaty and delicious, the mash was smooth and the gravy was plentiful. My crisis at the time was my phone kept losing charge, but Tom resolved that problem (just as Charlie had to resolve that problem in North Walsham – there’s a theme here that won’t continue now I have my new phone) so all was well. My second beer was the All Day Long which was malty, bitter and went well with those sausages. I must admit I thought that I had ordering halves, but Julian expressed concerned that this wasn’t sufficient to go with a meal. He’s very good at that sort of logical thinking.

    It’s a bit of an expedition for me to get to the York, but it’s brilliantly managed, welcoming and the beer is impeccably kept. I hadn’t realised about the evening meal, but I thought that it was excellent value. The service is obviously wonderful and the food/drink balance here is managed well with the pub feeling as if it’s got a friendly vibe. Definitely recommended, and go and wave at Tom as well.

  • Norwich – Adam and Eve (Two Julians)

    Norwich – Adam and Eve (Two Julians)

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    Apologies again for the quality of these photos, they were when my previous phone was having some difficulties…. Anyway, they’ll do. The Adam Eve is located near to Norwich Cathedral, it has a reputation for being an old pub and the owner Rita will have been there 25 years this year which is some going. This was part of our perambulations around Norwich pubs.

    This pub is widely claimed to be the oldest in Norwich and there is evidence that there was a building here in the mid-thirteenth century and a suggestion that stonemasons building the nearby Norwich Cathedral would have been drinking here when there was a brewhouse on site. The current building is though seventeenth century, although altered quite substantially in the twentieth century. The pub was the last in Norwich to serve directly from the barrel until a bar was added in the early 1970s. The owners have been Youngs, then Bullards, then Watney Mann, then the Norwich Brewery and then Chef and Brewer before it came into private hands. In December 1902, Youngs, Crawshay & Youngs (to quote their full name) advertised the pub as available to let and they noted the full licence, good yard and stabling. They seem to struggle with this as they were still advertising the pub using the same terms in January 1904 and they then started again in 1906.

    There are fewer newspaper articles than I would have expected about the pub, just quite a lot of inquests that were held here, which was commonplace in pubs. One is of note, a 14 year old boy called John Boltz who drowned in the River Wensum in a location very close to the pub. The landlord in 1814, Matthew Peacock, was declared bankrupt and it was noted that his furniture was for sale, “including a four-post bed, other bedsteads, feather beds and bedding, sheets, table linen, a panelled sliding partition, a thirty hour clock, kitchen range, bath stove, copper and furnace, liquor cases, hand lights and all manner of other stuff.”

    As an aside, I had to ask Google Gemini about that clock and it noted:

    “Thirty-hour clocks are clocks that need to be wound every 30 hours, as opposed to the more common eight-day clocks that only need to be wound once a week. They were most popular in the 18th and 19th centuries, and they are now considered to be antique clocks. Thirty-hour clocks are typically weight-driven, which means that they are powered by a weight that is suspended on a rope or chain. 1 The weight slowly descends as the clock runs, and it needs to be wound back up every 30 hours.”

    This video is from 1984 and is worth a watch, with a customer saying they went there to get away from technology……

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    The bit of the pub we were able to sit in, which is the section near to the entrance which overlooks the road. It was a little chilly inside, although that had no negative impact on me. The toilets possibly needed a little attention, but all else seemed to be in order. There are some old photos of the pub on the walls as well to add a bit of character.

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    As Julian noted, the area down the steps was just for the chosen ones, so there was a bit of a pile up in the small bar section that was open. I’ve never actually got as far as going down those steps, I think all of my visits I’ve ended up in this section of the pub. The pub’s web-site isn’t available at the moment, but the old one mentions that the building is haunted, adding:

    “The ghost of Lord Sheffield – hacked to death nearby on August 1st by rebels – is still reputed to haunt the building. So too are spectres of some of the French speaking medieval monks who lived and worked here. Somewhere below you, one monk is believed to be buried!”

    George Plunkett also has a glorious photo from 1939.

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    The bar area, which is just a little cramped for the poor bar staff (not that there’s much anyone can do about that, they’ve done well to carve out what space they have), and I think it’s linked to the lower bar that I’ve never got to see. The on-line reviews are unusually mixed for a traditional pub and a couple have queried why they weren’t allowed to have a look in the lower bar area, especially as there’s apparently evidence of an old Saxon well down there. I kind of understand that, it’s one of the oldest pubs in Norwich and I think it’s inevitable that customers might want to have a little look around. I think I’d rather let others read reviews directly if they so wish rather than me pointing any out.

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    The quality of that photo, my apologies…. The beer is one of my favourites, Old Peculier from Theakston and it was malty and smooth, kept well. There are usually around three real ales available and I think the standard of beer keeping is very high.

    It’s not really a pub I’ve ever much engaged with, but the service has always been polite and I’ve eaten outside a couple of times over the last decade as they have some external tables. It’s worth a visit for anyone interested in the history of Norwich pubs as it has played a large part in that story. It’s certainly not a pub for Julian as it closes at 21:00 (22:00 on Fridays and Saturdays, 18:00 on Sundays) and he’s normally not out until after then. Anyway, back to anyone running a pub for 25 years, that shows some considerable commitment and energy, so congratulations are clearly in order. And Julian and I were disappointed not to see the ghost of Lord Sheffield, as that might have put me off my beer.