Category: Tower Hamlets (Borough of)

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Edith Cavell and the Royal London Hospital

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Edith Cavell and the Royal London Hospital

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    Although I know a good deal of Edith Cavell’s story because of her links with Norfolk and her burial at Norwich Cathedral, I hadn’t realised that she had trained at the Royal London Hospital in Whitechapel. She had applied in 1896 to be a nurse practitioner at the hospital at the age of 30 and she trained under the leadership of the hospital’s matron Eva Luckes. This was Whitechapel in its gritty Victorian prime, all soot-stained streets, overcrowded housing, and the lingering reputation of Jack the Ripper’s handiwork still hanging in the air. It wasn’t exactly the sort of place you moved to for its charm and craft beer options. She was known for being conscientious, which in nursing terms usually means ‘worked twice as hard for half the recognition.’ Her superiors noticed, and so did her patients. She remained at the hospital until 1901 when Luckes nominated Cavell for the position of night superintendent at St. Pancras Infirmary.

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    The plaque on the building, which is now used by the London Borough Council of Tower Hamlets and I won’t go on about the integrity of its mayor, Lutfur Rahman, and I will instead let Wikipedia do that. It’s perhaps hard to find a greater contrast of the morals of public service than Edith Cavell and Lutfur Rahman, but this isn’t a political blog and so I will limit myself.

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Sand Pit at East India Dock

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Sand Pit at East India Dock

    As another one of my random asides, I often stay at the Travelodge at Docklands and it’s located in the top right of this map from the 1870s. One thing that I saw yesterday, which is a new addition, is a sand pit which is located to the bottom left of where the dock was.

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    I mean, what could possibly go wrong with this?

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    As an aside, what the dock area looks like now and there are already lots of residential properties and more are being constructed. There’s a new restaurant opening soon and a new Tesco Express, what more could a community want?

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Boxcar

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Boxcar

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    I’m writing about my visit to Boxcar a little earlier than I had anticipated as Nathan has just told me that it has permanently closed down since I visited in mid February 2023, just one week before the brewery issued a statement saying they were going into administration, posting on social media that “due to an unworkable situation with our landlords, partly due to the pandemic and overhanging debt, we had to leave our premises on 23rd February”.

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    I was the first customer of the evening and I managed to get muddled up with the door and couldn’t get in. Fortunately, a staff member heard me being incompetent and rushed to open the door for me. My usual making great first impressions and all that.

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    The interior and I remained the only customer for the entire time that I was there, which was the best part of an hour. The staff were perfectly friendly although there wasn’t much depth of engagement, but that’s completely understandable now as they were likely just a little distracted. It remained an inviting and welcoming atmosphere though and I liked the design of the venue.

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    I’ve known Boxcar for their milds and I’ve had a couple of them before, including the 9% Triple Dark Mild. And I had just eaten, but otherwise I would have been very tempted by the Hula Hoops and Mini Cheddars, with particular praise for having two different flavours of the latter. The King’s Head in Norwich has normal and smoky BBQ Mini Cheddars such is their level of professionalism in bar snack options.

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    To ensure I tried a new beer, this is the Double Dark Mild, a beautifully rich and smooth beer with an ABV of 6.3%. Full-bodied with flavours of dark fruits, suitably decadent and it’s disappointing to know that this is now no longer brewed.

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    The Solar Flare, a hoppy NEIPA coming in at 5.2%, a perfectly pleasant taste and it had the smoothness that I was looking for.

    All very sad that the venue has now gone, but on the positive side, there is the hope that Boxcar can start again in new premises, so all is not lost. I’m pleased that I took the opportunity to go when I did since they shut the week after I visited, but they seem optimistic that they can return at a different time in a different place as they’ve been able to keep the brand which means they can become a cuckoo brewery for a while. It must be soul destroying to have their dreams set back when they’ve got such a solid reputation, but they seem to have a strong supporter base which will help them to recover.

  • London – Goose Island Shoreditch, It’s All Over Now…..

    London – Goose Island Shoreditch, It’s All Over Now…..

    In a little interruption to my random piffle about my US trip….. I knew that it was coming because the manager of Goose Island’s taproom in Chicago told me last month, but Goose Island’s Shoreditch has now closed. Apparently profit making, but not falling within the requirements of Goose Island, it closed in September 2022 and has been immediately converted into the Queens Head.

    I visited this bar tens of times (many of which are recorded on here….) because I considered it to be one of the best run operations in the UK and I’m glad that I got to see the manager Daniel a few weeks ago before it was too late. Impeccable service, engaging staff and a commitment to excellent beer, fine food and a welcoming atmosphere. The Chicago Goose Island manager told me that the UK team has been able to visit the Chicago taproom just before it closed, which was some form of gesture I suppose to the outstanding bar that they had in their estate.

    A huge loss to the London bar scene that was vastly better than any other operation I’ve seen in the capital.

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Travelodge London Central Aldgate East

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Travelodge London Central Aldgate East

    On my third and final Travelodge of my current trip, this is their outlet in Aldgate, a short walk away from Tower Gateway DLR and a relatively short walk away from Aldgate East Underground. It was on their special cheap deal which they’ve been running recently, otherwise I wouldn’t be spending the usual prices that they charge here, as this hotel can frequently be over £100 per night.

    I was welcomed with this and I thought I’d patiently wait whilst the staff member returned. A cleaner walked by after around three minutes and mentioned he’d get a staff member, which he did. I was moderately annoyed to discover that there was a manager in the office behind reception, he had just shut the door rather than deal with customers. Not ideal, but I wasn’t particularly inconvenienced time-wise as it was only three minutes.

    The set-up here was the oddest I’ve had at a Travelodge and relates to the fact that they have a passageway through the middle of their hotel. I support the right of old paths to be maintained, but this meant at this hotel that guests needs to walk through one door (reception is off through the right-hand door) to another (the rooms are through the left-hand door). It also meant that they needed to give me a key fob for one of the doors, even though the rest on my walk to the room just used the standard Travelodge swipe card.

    There’s the passageway through….. The hotel itself is located on Chamber Street, an odd little backstreet which runs by the railway line, and the road has a slightly dodgy feel to it. It used to be called Chambers Street and there’s an entire Wikipedia page about it at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamber_Street. I noticed the shrapnel damage that it refers to, and that is being kept (or at least it’s still there and they’re working around it) as part of the new building project that they’re currently working on.

    The arrangement to get to the rooms and I’m surprised they didn’t just put offices or conference rooms here, as it all felt a bit odd. However, I suppose it’s no different to a motel where you go outside to get to the room, but it seemed unusual. I didn’t go off exploring for fear of setting alarms off, but I think that if they really want to then guests can use a staircase at the rear here to go up a floor, then walk through the hotel on the first floor and then back down the other side, avoiding the need to go outside.

    The room which felt like a prison cell with those high windows, but it was spacious and fitted out to brand standard. There was an ironing board in the room which is unusual for Travelodge, but I don’t concern myself with such fripperies. There was very little noise internally, a little more externally but nothing that proved to be annoying.

    The bathroom, which was larger than standard, a legacy of the strange building that the architects had to work with.

    The reviews of the staff are very positive, coming in at 4.7 out of 5 on Google, which is particularly high. The rooms are less popular, not least because a lot of them face the railway tracks and there are plenty of reviews about the noise issues caused by that. I think that I would have preferred a railway view as they intrigue me and I’m not put off by the noise, but the hotel might by default try and put people at the front of the hotel to minimise noise.

    I was quite happy with this hotel, especially as it cost under £25 per night, which is a ridiculous price for central London, although I booked it at a time of uncertainty (in the world, not in my life). The hotel could do with a bit of a refurbishment to replace the stained carpets and broken things, but that’s true of very many Travelodge hotels which take quite a battering from guests.

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Canary Wharf – Manjal Indian

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Canary Wharf – Manjal Indian

    A few weeks ago, I went to Hard Rock Cafe on an offer with The Fork (who annoy me, but we won’t go there today) which gave 50% off the food and £20 to spend at another restaurant. I was sceptical whether that £20 offer would actually arrive, but it did and I decided to spend it at the Manjal Indian at Canary Wharf. I also forgot that Richard was coming down to London for his decadent purposes, which made things more confusing but, fortunately, nothing that the restaurant couldn’t handle.

    The view from the restaurant. Indian cuisine is one of my favourites and I’ve had a long-running project of visiting an Indian restaurant in every country that I’ve been to. Unfortunately, I haven’t added many restaurants to my list over the last couple of years as travel has been just a little impacted. I’ve decided that India do the best Indian food, which is not really a revelation that I will send to a local newspaper….. The United States and Poland also manage to deal with Indian food very well. Anyway, I digress.

    The entrance is a little fiddly as there’s an Italian restaurant on the ground floor, which has to direct customers to the Indian one upstairs. Perhaps they’re jointly owned, but the signage really isn’t entirely clear here. When diners get upstairs, there’s a seating area (see above photo) for those waiting for their meals. The welcome from the staff member was polite and he was able to understand my exacting requirements of £20 off for me and charge Richard what they like (I didn’t put it like that, but that was my priority).

    The interior of the restaurant, all clean and comfortable. They also had a private dining room which had glass doors facing the main part of the restaurant, although this wasn’t used when we were there.

    The mango lassi, one of the better ones that I’ve had. Very mangoey (is that a word?). Richard had a cocktail. I didn’t like to ask why.

    Richard’s food is cluttering up my photo here, mine is the peshwari naan on the left, pilau rice and chicken chettinad. Richard had a cheese naan as it makes him sneeze, more rice and some egg curry thing. My naan and rice tasted as they should, although there was perhaps a little too much rice (but not enough for us to have shared one). The chicken in the curry was thigh meat, which was tender and rich in flavour. The curry had a depth of flavour and comprised of yoghurt, turmeric (which is where the restaurant name of Manjal comes from) and spices, with a decent amount of heat behind it. I’m sure that Bev would moan that it wasn’t very authentic, but I liked it.

    The reviews of the restaurant are broadly positive and that’s what gave me confidence to book it in the first place. Service was efficient, but we were never rushed and I was delighted to get a little chocolate at the end (I always feel the need to mention these little touches) because I’m easily pleased. The restaurant also managed to give me my £20 reduction without any issue, so my meal cost £5 including the service charge (which they added automatically and without advance notice), which I thought was very reasonable. I’d merrily recommend the restaurant to others, which must be struggling at the moment given the reduced number of people currently coming to Canary Wharf.

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Whitechapel Ibis Budget

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Whitechapel Ibis Budget

    I rather like the Ibis Budget chain of hotels and I positively miss the one in Torun with its all you can eat hot dogs for breakfast (I’m easily pleased). They’re basic, but usually clean and functional. And, best of all, generally they’re pretty cheap. I haven’t seen this one listed before, so it has either recently reopened or I’m just not very observant, and the latter is always a distinct possibility. Anyway, I opted to stay here for two nights given that it was keenly priced and I liked how central it was for the City of London (which was an excuse to visit a few more pubs in that area).

    The interior of the hotel is bright and well maintained. I’ll contact the hotel [done, and they’ve kindly sent the below] and see if they can let me have some photos of the public areas (I also forgot to take a photo of the large teddy bear on one of the seats, but there are some on the team’s Instagram channel at https://www.instagram.com/ibisbudgetlondonwhitechapel/), as I didn’t get chance to take any of my own. And the hotel staff were unfailingly polite and helpful, offering a friendly welcome and an engaging farewell. The hotel didn’t feel very busy at all, but there were always staff visible in the public areas and it felt like a safe environment.

    Above two images supplied by hotel, the one on the left is the large breakfast area, the one on the right is the reception area. This is far more Ibis Styles than Ibis Budget in design, I remain impressed at the investment that has been made here.

    This isn’t the Ibis Budget room that I’m used to, there has been some sort of large scale refurbishment here. The bathroom is modern and all within one room (often Ibis Budget have a separate toilet, a shower that is sort of open plan and a sink that is in the bedroom). There’s a pull down bed at the rear and a small desk in the corner. Some money has been spent here in this refurbishment and I think it’s looking rather good and certainly entirely functional. The hotel doesn’t offer hot drink making facilities or irons in the rooms, but, I have a Pret subscription and don’t use irons as I’m scared they might burn me, so this wasn’t an obstacle.

    I didn’t experience any noise issues either internally or externally, to the point that I did wonder how many guests were actually in the hotel. The air conditioning made the room very cold, which pleased me greatly, and I’m impressed at how easy it was to control the temperature, better than most other budget hotels.

    Not the view from my room unfortunately, but a view from one of the hotel windows near to the lifts. It’s about a ten-minute walk to the Tower of London and about a twelve-minute walk to Greggs.

    Perhaps not “sinfully decadent”, but this is a really sensible list of snacks that is easy for the hotel to provide. The prices aren’t unreasonable and this seems a well thought through list of options.

    All told, this was a hotel which exceeded my expectations, an engaging team of staff, a clean environment, modern rooms, decent air conditioning and a short walk to the underground and the city of London. For anyone who can get a room here at a similar price to Travelodge or similar, I’d pick here, as the rooms are better kitted out and that air conditioning is very useful (and would have been at Stratford Travelodge). All very lovely.

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Canary Wharf – Brewdog (Attempt 2)

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Canary Wharf – Brewdog (Attempt 2)

    I tried to visit Brewdog at Canary Wharf at the end of last year and I was partly successful….. This was at a time when customers could go indoors, but there was a problem with the door to get in, so the only seating option was outside. This sufficed for a quick visit, but I wanted to return to see the main event.

    Richard accompanied me as he’s becoming ever more enthused about this whole beer drinking thing, although he’s now got some sort of weird obsession with brightly coloured gins. I try not to encourage that, but fortunately, he was entirely agreeable that this would be a beer night. Well, sort of, we left Brewdog and he then gets the most ridiculous coloured gin in the next pub, but I didn’t say anything.

    I’m not sure that Canary Wharf is ever really that busy on a Sunday night in summer, but it was certainly quiet during our visit. It’s a spacious bar, although not quite as large as I had expected, but we didn’t have any shortage of tables to choose from. I can imagine that when Canary Wharf is in full flow that this must be a very busy location and I can imagine the money that they make is substantial. As for this quiet Sunday evening, I can’t imagine there was much profit being made.

    There were the bright lights, looking only slightly like a brothel, that Brewdog often have in their pubs (I mean that Brewdog often have bright lights like this, not that they have brothels in their pubs).

    And the artworks on the wall, all very Brewdog.

    But, I’m not here to critique the bar’s interior design, it’s not that important to me. The main element here is the beer and there were numerous stouts for me to choose from. I went through a few beers here that included more than just stouts, doing my normal just purchasing them in one thirds, but the star of the show was the Russia Stout from Mikkeller. I ordered this one without much expectation and a staff member came over and said it was a beautiful example of its type, simple, but elegant. And he was right, this was just a well produced stout which didn’t have any gimmicks to it. It had a level of decadence that I didn’t expect it to have, meaning just small sips delivered the coffee and chocolate notes each time. Smooth, elegant and really rather lovely, rare to have such a richness when not an imperial stout (the ABV is just 5.1%).

    The staffing was excellent, knowledgeable, engaging and polite staff members who were keen to converse about the beers. The location was clean, the temperature wasn’t too hot, the beers were excellent, the staff knew what they were talking about and this is the first contender for my fiercely contested pub of the year award (when I say fiercely contested, I mean more, I think it should be fiercely contested). This is a bloody lovely bar. I suspect I’ll be back (although that sounds like a threat).

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Canary Wharf Amazon Fresh

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Canary Wharf Amazon Fresh

    I don’t usually shop on-line using Amazon, but I heard a few weeks ago that they had opened their first Amazon Fresh convenience store outlet in Ealing. They’ve opened a couple more now in London, with this one being in Canary Wharf. There are still only a handful of cities in the world that Amazon have opened in and it’s fair to say that the technology in action here is, well, breathtaking.

    The instructions to get in the store were prominently displayed outside. I was with Richard, who is pretty competent at technology, and we used his Amazon account since he actually has one he knows the password to. Customers need to have the Amazon App on their phone to scan their way into the store, but there’s no other registration process needed.

    A helpful staff member came out to check if we needed assistance, and he confirmed that the main cardholder can guest others in. There’s a lot of novelty about this whole process, so I suspect that the staff member is doing a lot of explaining. There is a slight catch though, if I picked anything up, it would be free of charge for me and would be charged to Richard’s Amazon account. I didn’t take advantage of this situation on this occasion, although I might in future. It’ll make family shopping interesting though, as if the child picks something up and hides it about their person, then the shopper who took them in will be charged.

    This whole shop works by cameras, sensors and technology that I don’t really understand. It knows when you pick things up from the shelf and when you put them back. You walk around the shop, put your purchases in a bag, your pocket or anywhere else, and just leave. The technology knows what you’ve had and unless you’ve got alcohol which needs a ID check, there is no human intervention in the process.

    This is undeniably all very clever, and regardless of whether this is good or bad for humanity, I was impressed at the smoothness of the entire operation. Amazon are working in partnership with Morrison’s, so this technology would allow every checkout staff member to be replaced, just having security guards to monitor the entrance to a store. How the technology would work in a larger and busier store, I don’t know, but I assume Amazon will find a way to solve any problems which are encountered.

    The store was laid out like any other convenience store would be, all neat and tidy. The prices were either the same as in Morrison’s, and there’s lots of their stock in the store, but they were mostly more expensive. This isn’t the cheapest shop to purchase items in, but it’s also not hugely more expensive so it’s still a viable choice for customers. For convenience, it’s perhaps unbeatable though.

    Richard purchased two items and on the first product he waved it about in the air a bit, to ensure the cameras and sensors had picked it up. For the second product, he just shoved it straight in a bag. And it was as simple as that, we then walked out into the darkness of the Canary Wharf maze of buildings.

    For the next hour, Richard was convinced that he’d shop-lifted as there was no receipt sent. However, an hour or so later he looked in his Amazon account and the two purchases were there, he’d been charged correctly. He seemed relieved that he wasn’t a shop-lifter, but we were mostly just both in awe at this technology. It has implications for staff numbers, but as a purely technological achievement, this is one of the most impressive things that I’ve seen. I’d be amazed if this doesn’t become the norm for convenience shops (and indeed entire supermarkets) in the future, it’s the end of shop-lifting and the end of queues.

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Kings Stores Pub

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Kings Stores Pub

    I’m working my way carefully around the Good Beer Guide pubs of London, with the Kings Stores being operated by the Metropolitan Pub Company, which is part of Greene King. They note that “every single one of our 71 pubs in and around London is unique and each of them is individually run by its manager”, which adds some confidence to arrangements, as Greene King aren’t always the finest purveyors of beers in their pubs.

    The welcome was prompt and friendly, with the pub feeling all clean and organised. The beer choice was just about satisfactory, although to be fair, better than most Greene King pubs. There was Greene King IPA, Amagansett from Bedlam Brewery and Swift from Truman’s Brewery, so a not particularly balanced selection and nothing of any real note for a pub listed in the Good Beer Guide. I limited myself to a half pint of Swift, which was well kept and moderately interesting, but I wouldn’t have much wanted much more of it.

    The pub seems to be well reviewed for food and it looks a reliable option for that, and the pubs has a multitude of wines available. The observant might notice in the above photo that sausage rolls and Scotch Eggs are being sold for £5, with other food prices all being towards the higher end of the range. The pub shows sports as well as trying to appeal to a dining clientele, which seems an interesting mix, and the whole arrangement felt a bit formulaic to me.

    Anyway, the pub was welcoming and that’s important, with the service being efficient and warm. It’s nearby to London Liverpool Street railway station and I can think of worse places to wait for a train than this pub.