Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Lincolnshire

Bassingham – Five Bells

The Five Bells at Bassingham looks like a rural pub should perhaps look like, although the foliage is rapidly consuming the venue’s signage. I can’t say I’m overly taken with the pub’s opening times which are caveated with “we may close earlier on very quiet nights or open later if need be”, which don’t exactly make planning entirely easy.

Anyway, gripes about opening times put to one side, the pub felt an inviting place to visit and my hopes were high.

I was a little disappointed with this to be honest, as ideally a venue with four different real ales would have something a slightly more interesting available. No local breweries, no milds or dark beers, all just a little generic. But, at least they have a choice and if that’s what the locals want to drink, perhaps I shouldn’t complain. Although I will.

I went for the Timothy Taylor Landlord, with a food pairing of Mini Cheddars, with the beer being well kept and tasting as expected. The Mini Cheddars were delicious as ever.

The pub did have plenty of character, including the hops above the bar, and a tree. I’m reminded of the rather larger tree in the Raleigh Beer Garden, a venue I’m keen to go back to. But I digress, dreaming of the United States once again.

All very British, there was a pleasant atmosphere to the pub. Well, there wasn’t from a few drunken customers loudly announcing they were from London who were busy upsetting some locals, but these warm days seem to bring out these type of arguments. The staff didn’t seem to notice an awkward altercation between the two groups, which fortunately didn’t develop further so peace of sorts was maintained.

The pub was once owned by Highwayman Inns who in the 1980s specialised in offering steaks and seafood. The pub itself was built in 1815, although it does feel older because of how the interior has been designed.

The service in the pub was friendly and what I think was the manager asked how we were, it all seemed authentic and genuine. There’s quite a wide menu, perhaps priced a little towards the higher end of the scale, and food is what many customers were coming in for during our Saturday early evening visit. It is very well reviewed on-line, so they seem to be doing a marvellous job in serving the community and the environment felt warm and cosy. Definitely worth a little visit for anyone in the area, if time hadn’t been pressing I would have liked to have spent longer in here.

June 6, 2023
Carlton-le-Moorland – The White Hart

At some stage of this pub’s history, although not recently, someone thought it would be a marvellous idea to brick up the frontage of the building. I’ll refrain from making comments on their design choices, but it doesn’t look the most inviting of pubs from the exterior. Or, to put it another way, it looks like it has been turned into a residential property.

The building dates from the sixteenth century, although I know little more than that, but there were once two pubs in the village. More recently, in 2016, the landlady of 21 years, Heather Richmond, retired from the venue to enable her to travel around the world which sounds a marvellous idea. Fortunately, the pub wasn’t lost to the community as it was taken over by new owners who also sensitively refurbished the interior.

I did note the lack of “day” from Monday which marginally upset my sense of order for just a brief moment. The opening hours are a little limited, but Carlton-le-Moorland is a relatively rural Lincolnshire village and this must be what works for them in terms of customer numbers.

Unsure of which door to enter from, although I don’t think it matters, we walked through a dining area and I wasn’t entirely sure that the pub was even open. When we got to the bar there was silence which made me wonder whether we were about to be asked to leave and return when they were actually open, it was a slight relief when we were politely asked what drinks we’d like.

They had a keg beer from Timothy Taylor’s, the Hopical Storm Pale, alongside two real ales, including the Lion’s Pride from Milestone Brewery and Timothy Taylor’s Landlord. Mine was the first check-in to Untappd for a year, so it’s rather difficult to tell what other ales they’ve been serving over recent months. The service was welcoming and efficient, but I suspect that this is something of a locals’ pub outside of food service times.

We decided to sit in the garden area, but I have to note how cosy the interior looked as we walked through it. There’s some considerable heritage here behind the bricked-up front entrance.

It was a beautiful day outside with the sun shining and the beer garden looked warm and inviting.

But, I don’t like the sun, so I made Liam sit in the sheltered bit so I didn’t overheat.

All was well with the Lion’s Pride, a local beer brewed in Newark, a well-kept session bitter.

This is very much a food pub, although drinkers are welcome and the outdoor space is relatively expansive and there’s some playground equipment for children. The venue is well reviewed and seems to surprise and delight many customers, although not quite all, with its Sunday lunches. All rather pleasant, particularly during the summer months when the garden feels an appropriate place to sit and I’m sure that it offers a cosy interior during the colder winter months.

June 6, 2023
Aubourn – Aubourn Clock Tower

They were hopeful times for the Church of England in the Victorian period, congregations were often growing and there was a need for new church buildings to cope with that demand. There was a church in the village of Aubourn, St. Peter’s, but it just wasn’t big enough for the number of people wanting to spend their Sundays deep in prayer.

That increased demand meant a new church was needed, so the old St. Peter’s was mostly demolished and a new one constructed.

The new church was designed by J H Hakewill and constructed between 1862 and 1863 in the Early English style. Unusually, the spire had oak shingles, something which has recently been a problem as it’s not easy to replace and restore them. I’m always intrigued to look back and see what locals thought at the time about changes such as this and in July 1861 an anonymous correspondent wrote to the Stamford Mercury:

“The old church might have been preserved. This is a mistake. The [existing] church now stands in the village near the old Hall, in its time honoured and natural site. The new church will stand out of Aubourn. It was an interesting old church, but neglected. Would it not be wiser to bring the church to the person rather than the person to the church? Mr Editor, the very noblest mission you could have would be to be the conservator of the noble churches within your circulation”.

He wasn’t the only one, another correspondent wrote in the same month:

“We observed that Aubourn church is about perhaps now being pulled down, to build a wall around the new churchyard! Is there nothing about the old church to win the regard of the parish clergyman? Nothing in its Norman tower, its Early English north door, the peculiar construction of the nave, its really handsome chancel, with the monuments of the Nevile family upon its walls?”

There was more excitement about the opening, with the Lincolnshire Chronicle reporting in July 1862:

“The new church of St. Peter at Aubourn was consecrated on Thursday 17 July. The church is Early English, has a nave, north and south transepts and is a very beautiful specimen of modern skill in ecclesiastical architecture. It has been erected at the sole expense of the late Hy. Nevile of Walcot Hall, near Stamford, the leading of the greater part of the materials having been cheerfully and gratuitously done by the tenants and others residing in the parish”.

At least the old church wasn’t entirely demolished, the chancel was kept and that survives today.

But just as congregations had risen in the nineteenth century, they fell away in the twentieth century and this church started to fall into disuse by the 1960s. In 1968, the writing was on the wall and the church became redundant. The Church of England, who had quite a shoddy reputation in this period for looking after their buildings, would have likely wanted the whole thing demolished but the local Archdeacon wanted to save some of it. The local population also weren’t enthusiastic of losing one of the most charming structures in their area, so there was a compromise. Some was knocked down, some was saved.

The building was placed into the care of Aubourn and Haddington Parish Council in 1974 and they’ve been looking after it since. The council have done an excellent job, including ensuring that funding was raised in 2004 to ensure that the structure didn’t fall down.

The clock, which was given as a memorial gift, is the highlight of the whole arrangement now, evident by the name of the structure is the Aubourn Clock. The irony is that the old church, which was mostly demolished for this out of town extravaganza, is now back in use as the parish church. The replacement was too large, in the wrong place and its demise was perhaps inevitable. The remaining parts of this former church have at least been made secure and they are now used by the community. It’s a marvellous way of evolving buildings so that they can remain in use but with a purpose which ensures their survival.

June 6, 2023
Dunston – Dunston Pillar

Now standing just over 60 feet in height, Dunston Pillar looks rather incongruous in its current surroundings, but it was once something of a tourist attraction and also more substantial until the RAF knocked a bit off the top in 1940.

Known as the Lincoln Lighthouse at the time, it was constructed in 1751 because the landowner Sir Francis Dashwood wanted to make the bleak moorland area which went from Sleaford to Lincoln safer. There were highwaymen in the area, not least Dick Turpin who, on Dashwood’s lands, had murdered Christopher Wilkinson who refused to give into his demands.

Sir Francis Dashwood (1708-1781) was, I think it’s entirely fair to say, something of a character. Known for his links to the hedonistic Hellfire Club, he developed something of a reputation for fine living. In spite of this reputation, or indeed perhaps because of it, he later became the Chancellor of the Exchequer between 1762 and 1763 before being elevated to the Peerage as Baron le Despencer and serving as the Lord Lieutenant of Buckinghamshire until his death. Betty Kemp wrote a book about the seemingly very full life of Francis Dashwood, titled “An Eighteenth Century Independent”.

One of the tower’s design plans.

The interior once had a wooden staircase which led to the gallery around the lantern area at the top of what was known as a land lighthouse. There were only three of these constructed in England and Dashwood hoped that the lights would deter highwaymen from prowling around the area. It did have some success, although the development of a better road network in the area meant that it had started to become less relevant by the 1780s. By 1788, the lantern was no longer lit, as the threat of highwaymen had sufficiently diminished.

The site became something of a tourist attraction and a bowling green and assembly rooms were built around the base, with the location being advertised as Pleasure Gardens although these had fallen into disrepair by the late 1780s. The lantern at the top of the tower was removed in 1808, although that primarily was because bits of it had already fallen down as the ironwork had rusted away. This was replaced by a bust of King George III, which is now located in the grounds of Lincoln Castle.

© The Trustees of the British Museum

An illustration of the tower published in Gentleman’s Magazine in July 1795.

© The Trustees of the British Museum

This vignette dates to 1801 and the writing on the pillar is still visible at this point.

In 1940, the RAF had some considerable concerns that one of their aircraft from the nearby airfield at RAF Coleby Grange might fly into the tower. This wasn’t just them being over cautious, the RAF base was located under one mile away and was used for night flights, meaning a 93 foot tall stone monument was sub-optimal for their purposes. So to avoid incidents, they lopped 30 feet from the top of the pillar and the stone that they removed is still piled up around the base of the monument.

There were once views of Lincoln and Newark for those brave souls who went to the top of the tower, but that touristic endeavour has long since become unavailable. It appears that there are occasional suggestions that the tower could be put back to its pre-1940 height and I’m sure it would make a notable tourist attraction if the wooden staircase returned, but the cost of such works likely make this plan prohibitive despite the heap of stone that’s there ready for the purpose. The tower likely also has a new owner, as the structure and the property next door were put up for sale in late 2022, it’d certainly be an intriguing thing to own.

June 4, 2023
2022 Hull Trip – Day 1 (Raymond Mays to a Quick Stop in Brigg)

Having ticked off the JD Wetherspoon in Bourne, we (well, I more accurately) thought that we might as well pop into their venue in Brigg, the White Horse. Opened by the chain in 2015, it has some history, as is noted on the sign on the pub:

“Noted as ‘a building of local interest’, this was originally a farmhouse, dating from the mid 18th century, with stables and gardens to the rear. The farmhouse and outbuildings were later bought by the Britannia brewery, in Wrawby Street, and converted into licensed premises. The brewery closed in 1924, but the Britannia public house has survived”.

It’s a well reviewed pub, which unfortunately means there aren’t many entertaining reviews. Although there’s this one:

“We were then met by a member of staff, who asked my daughter for ID as it was nearly 9pm and under 18s need to go. My daughter is a few months off 18. Surely a bit of discretion should be used in this situation. She was extremely rude and unprofessional to us when I said she wasn’t drinking She told us we had 5 mins to drink up and leave and we couldn’t eat. My point is I get the children bit about being out st 9 pm, but surely use a bit of common sense with a nearly 18 year old sat with 5 other adults”.

I love the idea of discretion in licensing law. I’m not sure their license says “all under 18 year olds must leave the venue by 9pm, unless they’re sort of nearly 18”.

Although I also liked:

“Shocking customer service. My wife just rang to book a table for tomorrow tea as we are taking our little girl to see Santa in Brigg and the guy on the phone point blank refused. I appreciate there is only 3 of us but we just wanted to make sure”.

I can imagine how surprised and delighted staff at Wetherspoons would be if they had to manage table reservations as well as everything else. Seems very harsh to give a 1/5 review because they refused to take a table booking, but there we go…..

“Glasses are absolutely disgusting and the carling is atrocious”

I agree about the Carling, but I think it’s meant to taste like that.

I’m always pleased to see power available at tables. The beer is Tamar from Summerskills Brewery from Plymouth seemed to be a reliable session ale.

Another view of the pub, all rather well presented and looked after.

The High Street in Brigg. This town in North Lincolnshire has a long history, with evidence of human settlement in the area dating back to the Bronze Age as it was a crossing point for the River Ancholme. Negatively impacted financially by the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the town was also the site of a battle during the Civil War when the Parliamentarians relieved it from the Royalist en route to Hull. Quite oddly, the town has a railway station which is served solely by trains on Saturdays, which doesn’t seem entirely ideal, but British Railways scrapped the weekday services in 1993.

The Buttercross Bell was, well, a bell that was located on the Buttercross building, but at some stage in the early twentieth century it was taken down. It was put on its little plinth in front of the still standing building by the Rotary Club a few years ago. Back in the day when it was used, the bell sounding marked the beginning of trading in the market place. It’s a pleasant area this now it has been pedestrianised.

After a little perambulation that was enough of Brigg as we had to cross the Humber to get to Hull before the pubs shut and also allow time for Liam to find a car charging facility. We only just made this one, the transport Gods were on our side and I’m not entirely sure what we would have done if the charging machines here weren’t working. Although Liam takes charge of these sort of mechanical and engineering issues (I have a rule that any problem that can be dealt with by duct tape or superglue is something that I can manage, but anything else needs an engineer to intervene in the arrangements), I would have likely had a little sleep in the car whilst he worked it all out.

February 25, 2023
2022 Hull Trip – Day 1 (A Road Trip from Norwich to the Raymond Mays)
Much as I am always surprised and delighted by travelling by rail, primarily surprised they’re running at the moment, there’s something exciting about a road trip. Back in early September 2022, my friend Liam and I decided to go to Hull for the weekend and so the next few posts will all be about that trip. What a treat for my two readers. And yes, it was ages ago, but I took rather too long writing about the US. But back to the trip, our first stop was about three minutes into the adventure to get a Greggs to sustain us for the journey. That was my idea.

Some al fresco dining. I can be very continental at times.

Our next port of call was Bourne, a town that I don’t think I’ve visited before. Founded in Roman times, during the Middle Ages Bourne was a centre of the wool trade and the town prospered as a result. In the 12th century, an Augustinian priory was established in Bourne and the town might have been where Hereward the Wake was born in around 1035. Its economy was boosted with the arrival of the railways in the nineteenth century, but they were withdrawn in the late 1950s and now the nearest railway station is twenty miles away in Grantham. Which brings me onto why we were here which is that a new JD Wetherspoon pub opened here in the spring of 2022 and I can’t easily get to it by public transport.

The pub is named the Raymonds Mays and above is the memorial plaque to him. Raymond Mays was an English racing driver and engineer who was active in motorsport in the mid-20th century. He is best known for his association with the ERA (English Racing Automobiles) racing team, which he co-founded and for which he also drove. Mays was a talented driver, who competed in several major races and events, including the 24 Hours of Le Mans and the Mille Miglia. He also played a significant role in the development of the ERA racing cars, working on the design and engineering of the vehicles.

In addition to his racing career, Mays was also a successful businessman, and he was involved in the development of several innovative technologies, including the high-performance engines that powered the ERA racing cars. He is remembered as one of the pioneers of British motorsport and is widely regarded as one of the most talented and innovative drivers and engineers of his generation. And, yes, it was my idea to come to this pub.

Here we are standing opposite the pub with Liam surveying the scene. This was two separate shops until around 2012 when they closed, with the buildings being left boarded up for several years until JD Wetherspoon came along. Provincial towns once on the route of major roads are I think fascinating, so much history with the old coaching inns and various hostelries.

The interior is open plan and it’s quite cavernous, but it felt ordered and comfortable. It’s also got a long beer garden at the rear with various car related items to add some character. I had a quick half of Bear Island from Newby Wyke Brewery, a well kept hoppy blonde ale, keenly priced as ever.

Being quite dull, I’ve established that it’s possible to get a measure of a JD Wetherspoon pub’s operation by looking at their Google Reviews scores. They nearly all fall within the range of 3.8 to 4.1 out of 5, so any one of their venues outside of that range is likely either doing very badly or very well. I should publish a treatise on this fascinating piece of research and observation of mine. This one is sitting at 4.0 out of 5, so things seem to be going well. One reviewer summed up the pub’s beer policy:

“They serve larger in ale glasses, ale in larger glasses and they pour the ales flat with no head other than that it’s ok”

I’m sure the management will consider this carefully….. There’s nothing else memorable that I can much mention about the pub, but it seemed relatively busy and it’s another one ticked off my list. We then had to make some progress as I had decided that we had time to pop to Brigg next.
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February 25, 2023
Tuesday : A Bright and Sunny Day in Lincoln Before the Downpour and Bar Billiards

These blog title posts aren’t exactly carefully crafted pieces of literary genius, but at least it gives some background to this photo, a bright morning in Lincoln. Everything felt quite relaxed and calm, holiday makers ready to walk up a big hill to see the cathedral, locals seeming to be unhurried on their way to work and it felt like it’d be a trouble-free sort of day with no rain in sight.

As can be seen, some people waited behind the barrier for the train to go through, whilst some energetic and go-getting people such as myself rushed up the steps to take this photo. Although then I realised that I wasn’t too go-getting when I had a little rest after galloping up the steps.

Back to Lincoln Library as I wanted to get some things done and there are strict rules about plugging things into the wall. A power breaker duly acquired, which I thought was a little excessive, but all was set for the morning.

Staff walked by this, but it offended my sense of the proper keeping of books, look at them all slanted about. On a tangent, I was quite excited to hear an argument between a member of the public and a staff member as there’s a limited amount of external drama for me to listen to in a library. Spending time in a JD Wetherspoon pub usually gives me exciting content to comment on.

Anyway, back to my story. The member of library staff told a polite man that he couldn’t print out old newspapers on library printers as it was a breach of copyright. This is complete nonsense and I was slightly tempted to get involved in this matter, but I thought I’d better not as it was genuinely nothing to do with me. She didn’t back down though, she told him that this had always been the policy of Lincoln library and that unless it had changed on her day off the previous week then nothing had changed. I liked the passive aggressive behaviour really of that comment, a slight element of sneering, although she seemed slightly wounded when the member of the public said that he had been doing this all of last week.

Almost excited by what she perceived to be the rule breaking of her fellow staff, she didn’t back down, but as she was so certain so was right, she announced she’d get another member of library staff to confirm the policy. Five minutes passed and I could almost sense the argument going on elsewhere in the library when she realised that she was wrong. She sheepishly, although still with some annoyance in her voice, came back and said that there had been a misunderstanding, which there hadn’t been as she was just wrong. She announced that the library would accept printing of newspapers on their printers and she was pleased that they had come to a resolution. To be fair, the resolution was that the member of the public did what he came in to do and would have already done so if she hadn’t interfered. But, she was getting ready to go and shout at another customer who was doing something else she perceived to be wrong at a library computer, so that matter passed.

I thought after all this excitement in the library (it’s relative this excitement thing) that I needed a little drink, so I went to the Witch and the Wardrobe. This is another pub where the pumps are blocked by customers seated in front of them, so I’m not entirely sure what the drinks options were.

Although since it’s a Marstons pub, I was hardly ever going to be excited by the beer options and the house beer from Ringwood Brewery was badly kept. The service was friendly, but the pub was neither clean not had decent beer, so this wasn’t ideal. The crisps were very acceptable though and this pub should be a licence to print money given its location. The pub isn’t particularly well reviewed on-line either, it’s an odd place, but I wouldn’t recommend going there for anyone who likes beer. It’s good for crisps though, go there and fill your boots with crisps, they’ve got that spot on.

Although primarily about designated drivers, I ensured I sent this to my friend Des.

A rather attractive view of the River Witham.

And looking the other way along the Witham.

St. Swithins Church, a Victorian church which isn’t currently open to the public.

I couldn’t put it off any longer, I then decided to climb the mountain, also known as Steep Hill. I pretended that I was Dave Morgan and started off striding up the hill. Three metres later I decided I was bored of pretending to be Dave Morgan and I ambled slowly up the mountain taking photos every thirty seconds or so.

Photos of the hill, evidence of my stopping every few seconds.

Top of the hill where I stopped to find somewhere to lie down. This area is known as Castle Hill and it’s a rather beautiful area, although I was distracted with the lack of oxygen being this high up.

Approaching the Cathedral.

Very slightly lop-sided. I didn’t go into the Cathedral as I was disappointed at the scale of the admission charges, which were £24 per adult including entry and going on the tours. This will have to remain one of the few cathedrals that I haven’t visited, there’s no need in my irrelevant view for entrance fees set at that level. I accept it’s marvellous for short-term financing of the building, but as a long-term mission to engage people in religion and history, it seems very risky to me. The model at Peterborough Cathedral seems much more moderate, free admission and then offering excellent and engaging tours for a fee or donation. How on earth the cathedral is valuing entrance at the same price as the Tower of London I’m not sure, but I do feel sadness at the number of families who won’t be able to afford to visit the building. But, it’s their building and their choice, but as long as the Church of England don’t express surprise that people don’t engage with their other historic structures.

Lunch, my free coffee from O2 and a chicken bake. Living the dream and all that.

I was thinking what a glorious day it was, the sun shining and everything quite balmy.

Layout of the former St. Paul in the Bail church and there was a religious building on this site from perhaps as early as the seventh century. The Victorians built one of their new churches here in 1876, after a few centuries of demolition and rebuilding, but that was taken down in 1972. This is all that remains.

Old gravestones shoved into the tarmac.

Lincoln Castle and the weather started to look rather less balmy than I had been anticipating.

Torrents of rain meant I had to hide under the gateway to the cathedral whilst rivers of water flooded past my feet.

After ten minutes of studying the underside of the gateway, the rain went away and I got a photo of Lincoln castle without a thunderstorm above it.

Lovely square, it’s the same one as I photographed earlier, but I had recovered from the mountain climbing expedition to get to it by now.

The cathedral, which I still really wanted to go in, but I decided they’d made their opinion on visitors welcome, for the few and not the many. I can’t hold a mood for as long as my friend Nathan, but I can last a few hours.

More of the formidable money making machine that is Lincoln Cathedral. I had a look at their menu and the beer choice was limited to Budweiser, so that annoyed me again, and they were charging £4.95 for a bottle as part of their for the few, not the many theme.

I wasn’t sure what to expect from the Prince of Wales pub which is operated by Stonegate, but I was suitably impressed. The interior was clean, there were power points, the decor was modern and the staff members were friendly. I went for the Atlas from Welbeck Abbey Brewery and this was well-kept and suitably decadent. I also stayed here for longer than I had planned because a group came in which provided me with some entertainment when one of them announced he was having the halloumi burger as deer was his favourite meat. I put this update straight onto Facebook (I set the bar very low in my social media updates) and waited excitedly for the food to be delivered. To cut a long story short, the staff replaced the burger willingly and were very professional about the whole thing.

The outside of the Prince of Wales Inn, much better than I expected and I’d recommend it.

BeerHeadZ was my next pub to visit and my expectations were higher for here.

I decided to get two beers, the Voodoo People from Leviathan Brewing which I forgot that I’d had before, and the Jack in the Basket from Howling Hops, which was an impressive and smooth imperial stout. The crisps were decent as well.

Quirky interior, I liked this bar a lot.

I don’t normally take photos in the toilets, but they’ve made an effort here and it seemed wrong not to acknowledge that.

An interesting take on politics from Cloudwater.

I thought at this stage that I’d better taken a walk back to the footlands of lower Lincoln, this is Michaelgate.

Photos of climbing down the mountain.

This is known as the Jew’s House and the building was first constructed between 1170 and 1180, one of the relatively few residential properties with Norman architecture left in the country. It takes its name as a Jewish man lived there in 1290 and the locals must have a long memory if they’ve called the building that ever since. The property has been used as a restaurant for the last half a century and it’s a remarkable survivor (the building, not particularly the restaurant, although 50 years is good going).

Joiner’s Arms which had been closed the previous day due to staff shortages.

There were no other customers and so the atmosphere was a little muted, but everything was clean and comfortable. They only had a couple of beers, although the landlord pro-actively apologised for that, but the Bullion from Nottingham Brewery was beautifully kept, so I had no complaints.

Where’s Nathan when you need him…. I’d have beaten him easily on this table, I could just tell. I think this is the only pub with a bar billiards table in Lincoln.

Walking back through the centre of Lincoln, there’s a feeling of history all around this rather lovely city.

I thought I’d stay out a bit longer as I wasn’t particularly engaged in going back to the Travelodge. I also had my laptop to get work done and power points were available at the JD Wetherspoon operated The Ritz. This is half a pint of the Animate from Beermats Brewing, it wasn’t kept as well as it could have been, so slightly disappointing.

Just as I was planning my food arrangements, McDonald’s sent me a notification saying I could get a burger for nearly free. I don’t much visit McDonald’s in the UK, but I wasn’t going to turn down a bargain. And I never said that this blog was always full of fine dining and culinary decadence did I?

June 15, 2022
Wednesday : Toby Carvery Breakfast in Lincoln and Back to Norwich

I wasn’t overly sad to wave goodbye to the Travelodge in Lincoln, although I’d add that I rarely actually physically wave to a hotel as I don’t want people thinking that I’m a bit odd. Being someone that clearly doesn’t have enough to be properly annoyed about, I focus on wanting to say negative things about hotels that refuse to have windows that will open. But, there’s more to worry about in life I accept.

The breakfast at Travelodge was just under £10 per day and I’m not made of money, so I decided to come to the Toby Carvery where it’s all you can eat for £5.49.

There was a friendly welcome from the staff member, but I can’t say that it was particularly busy, perhaps five or six other customers in the entire restaurant. But if you’re going to an all you can eat buffet, the fewer people the better, as it means uninterrupted food grazing.

It’s all self-service, with bacon, sausages, Yorkshire puddings (but no gravy!!!!), potato & bacon hash.

Alongside fried eggs, mushrooms, beans and plum tomatoes. I really can’t complain at just over £5 and customers can go back as much as they like. Which I did, on numerous occasions as I’m quite greedy.

I’ll just link to one photo of food, as more than that is clearly excessive and arguably one photo is too much. The ingredients all tasted of a decent quality and I very much like restaurants which offer plum tomatoes as part of their breakfast offering. I also used the toaster here, which I’m normally scared of for fear of setting fire to the restaurant. Often these spit out bread which is still as raw as when it went in, but put it in again and it comes out blackened and smoking. The toaster arrangement here worked perfectly I’m pleased to report.

The only problem with the Toby Carvery set-up was that I was too thrifty to spend £3 on the unlimited coffee option, although that was partly because I prefer decaff and they didn’t seem to have that. That meant after an hour of over-dosing myself on salt from the bacon I had to rush to the JD Wetherspoon nearby to get about ten decaff coffees for £1.20. Bargain.

The former site of St. Mark’s railway station in Lincoln. As I mentioned in a post a couple of days ago, this railway station was demolished in the 1980s as it was really surplus to requirements. It dates back to when the railways were constructed, which was by rival companies rather than having an integrated transport plan in mind. This is St. Mark’s Obelisk which was originally built between 1762 and 1763 and was on High Bridge, being designed to be a water conduit. It was placed in storage before the Second World War, but was integrated into this shopping centre in the 1990s when the shopping centre was being constructed.

This map (clicking on the image makes it a little bigger) from around 100 years ago shows just how ridiculous the situation was and it’s surprising that the set-up lasted for so long. Two railway stations within a two-minute walk, which kept blocking road and pedestrian traffic trying to go down the city’s main road. I rarely say that removing a railway station is a sensible idea, but in this case, it was.

Central Market had lost its way a little over recent years and a decline in footfall has led to a decision to remodel and modernise the building. For anyone interested, there’s more information about that at https://www.lincoln.gov.uk/news/article/202/works-to-refurbish-lincoln-central-market-begin.

This is the Greyfriars building, or specifically the former infirmary of the Franciscan monastery. Most of the monastery buildings were taken down after the Dissolution of the Monasteries, but this one survived and was later used for numerous purposes, including a school and a Mechanics’ Institute. The building is now owned by the council who were using it as a museum, but for reasons unknown, they’ve decided to almost abandon this historic structure and stop people visiting it. There are though finally plans to reverse that decision and some of these ideas seem very exciting and interesting, with more information at https://www.heritagelincolnshire.org/projects/greyfriars-in-lincoln.

Back at Lincoln railway station for a cheap train to Norwich, changing at Peterborough.

Every time I see signs for the University of Lincoln I think of the Inbetweeners.

The East Midlands Railway train to Peterborough, which wasn’t particularly busy.

Table seat and laptop, what more could I need on a train….

Feeling slightly decadent, and not having long to change train, I went to the Waitrose by Peterborough railway station. I spent 60p on flavoured water and also pondered how expensive everything in the store was. I think I’ve spent too long in Poland, if that’s possible (technically, it is possible thanks to the limits of my Schengen Visa, but I won’t get political again here).

And the train to Norwich, another East Midlands Railway (or whatever they’re called, I get muddled up) service which wasn’t too busy, so I got a table seat. No power points that wasn’t entirely ideal, but you can’t have everything….. I enjoyed Lincoln, plenty of decent pubs, no shortage of history and a Toby Carvery in the city centre. I was fortunate to get cheap rail fares, and also a Travelodge at a reasonable price, because this is quite rightly a popular tourist destination.

June 15, 2022
Monday : A Day in Lincoln and the Cardinal’s Hat

My plan for the next few days was to visit Lincoln, which was the first casualty of Covid a couple of years ago, when I had to cancel my hotel and train bookings. It was also the only money I lost on travel, an £18 pound rail ticket to get there wasn’t refunded, but the return was, as train services were cancelled during that weekend because of the Covid worries. In fairness, compared to what others lost, that was trivial and I was very fortunate with Covid relating bookings. Anyway, back to the present (well, back to three weeks ago, as I’m still catching up with this blog), leaving the Travelodge, I walked past the queue for a passport, which even at 08:00 was wrapped around the Passport Office building in Peterborough.

Wetherspoon breakfasts are getting too decadent in price for me now, so I just settled down with my £1.20 unlimited coffee and waited for the train to Lincoln. I can’t complain about the value for money on hot drinks in the pub, especially as I used their power sockets to keep my devices charged up.

Fun fact, Peterborough is twinned with Bourges in France and also Vinnytsia in Ukraine. I’m surprised that the city leaders haven’t twinned the city with one of the Peterboroughs in the United States, or even the one in Ontario in Canada, as that would have made for some interesting holidays, or business trips, whatever they’re called.

The railway station, in all its glory. Located 120 kilometres north of London on the mainline, there are frequent services up to Scotland, although I was getting ready to board a more provincial train.

I was quite taken with this LNER clock, but then again, I’m easily pleased.

I had obtained my train ticket to Lincoln for under £5, another rail sale ticket, and it was all clean and comfortable (the train, not the ticket). I had a reserved seat on this train and also had the entire table for four to myself which was handy.

Lincoln railway station and note the professional photography skills of my finger over the camera. I’ve got used to the phone now, so photos shouldn’t be obscured in future. Hopefully and I can’t promise anything. Formerly known as Lincoln Central, the station was constructed in 1848 for the Great Northern Railway company. There was another railway station nearby, Lincoln St. Marks, which was closed in 1985 and for a change, this decision made sense. But more on this in tomorrow’s riveting update from Lincoln.

The view from the JD Wetherspoon’s Square Sail. I’m still ticking them off my list…. The reviews are fairly average for one of the chain’s venues and it has a modern feel to it and I liked these views from the upstairs tables. I had a little read through the negative reviews, as that’s the sort of thing that passes for entertainment for me on a Sunday evening now and I liked this 1/5 review:

“After waiting over half an hour we my Husband and I (10th Wedding Anniversary!), received 2 mugs of cold Tea, well stewed”

Puzzled as I am that they didn’t just get the tea as self-service and with no disrespect to Wetherspoons, but perhaps a special anniversary deserved a little more of a decadent venue.

This humoured me as well:

“The food was cold the hottest thing on my plate was the English mustard.”

The entrance to the Drill, a drama theatre. It takes its name from when the building was a Drill Hall and it has only recently re-opened following what was feared to be a permanent closure.

I rather liked the head, designed by Rick Kirby.

Located on Free School Lane and next door to the Drill is Lincoln library and I had a quick inspection of the local history section and I was suitably pleased with it. The building was opened as a library in 1914, moving from the Assembly Rooms.

The city’s war memorial which was repaired in 2005 after it started to fall into disrepair.

They took the iron railings during the Second World War to help the war effort and I’m not sure whether that was appropriate or not. Although, in the end, the bulk of this mass collection of metal that they took was just dumped.

And a quick visit to JD Wetherspoon’s, the Ritz. This felt a little bit more rough and ready than their other venue in the city, but I think I preferred this one as it had some characters in it. This former cinema, named Ritz which will come as no surprise, was opened in 1932 and the on-line reviews are again fairly average for the chain.

I’d agree with this customer, but am disappointed that they didn’t upload a photo of their mound of sausages:

“If you are out of a particular item, let the customer know rather than simply decide to substitute it. My mixed grill had no chicken and no lamb, and simply bunging on extra sausages doesn’t make up for that”

And in the middle of another review, someone was complaining in general about the pub and mentioned the pub’s:

“Professional coffee drinkers”

I think I manage that sometimes….

Some of the pub’s decor.

With that it was time to move onto the nearby Travelodge, where I had a cheap room for three nights. The Travelodge room did not surprise and delight me, indeed it annoyed me. This ground floor room didn’t have opening windows so I decided I’d be in a general mood about the room, which wasn’t in a particularly good state of repair and goodness knows what the stain on the curtains was. Anyway, it was cheap.

Departing from my decadent hotel room, I noticed the Lincoln Imps on this closed shop, which was a Boots until recently.

The war memorial again, with St. Benedict’s Church behind it.

This is Lincoln Guildhall, but what’s rather exciting (to me) is that this was the site of the gateway to the town on Ermine Street. The gateway was built in 211 AD and was known as the Stonebow, surviving until the fourteenth century. A new structure was completed in the following century and that in turn was faffed about with in the nineteenth century by the Victorians. It’s still where the meetings of Lincoln City Council take place, a building with considerable historic interest.

The Guildhall’s coat of arms.

George Boole (1815-1864), a local man who was mostly self-taught and he went onto become an important mathematician and philosopher, and I hope my friend Nathan is impressed that even I know of his importance to maths (Boole I mean, I’m not sure how important Nathan’s legacy is to the mathematical community).

Off to the Good Beer Guide listed Cardinal’s Hat pub, which I very much liked, with a suitably interesting keg and cask choice. The service was friendly and the whole pub felt historic and interesting.

Decadent surroundings to enjoy my Voodoo stout from Ossett Brewery, reminding me of my visit to the Rat & Ratchet pub in Huddersfield last year.

Lovely room, I like sitting by books.

The pub has a newspaper for a menu which has their food and drink list as well as some gossip about the pub. I like the idea of this, it might not be entirely practical, but it’s quirky and different.

And as I liked the pub so much, I went for a second drink, the Orbital Horizon from the wonderful Atom Brewery in Hull. Which then promptly reminded me of their pub in Hull, Atom Brewing at the Corn Exchange…. This was a very decent beer, a jam doughnut and chocolate sprinkle pale ale, this is just the sort of drink that I like. I am not threatened by beer with a flavour of doughnuts, indeed, I am very open to the concept.

It had started to rain by the time I left the pub, which was far from ideal. I’d recommend the Cardinal’s Hat and the building is authentically old, having been built in the fifteenth century as a residential property. It was used as an inn from 1521 until the beginning of the nineteenth century, when it became a shop. After the Second World War, it was acquired by St. John’s Ambulance and has recently been restored back into a pub, and a fine job they’ve made of it.

I had wanted to go to another pub listed in the Good Beer Guide, but it was closed due to be short staffed, more on that tomorrow. This is the rear of Lincoln Guildhall.

St. Mary’s Conduit, named after St Mary-le-Wigford’s church which is sits in front of.

The conduit was used from the sixteenth century until the turn of the twentieth century (1906 to be exact) to supply drinking water to local residents. They built it by pinching bits of the stone from the Carmelite Friary which has been dissolved following the Reformation, hence the rather quirky looking nature of the structure. There’s far more information about this at https://www.thecollectionmuseum.com/assets/downloads/IS_arch_19_st_marys_conduit.pdf for anyone interested.

June 12, 2022
Louth – The Joseph Morton

Whilst in Louth, we popped in the JD Wetherspoon outlet in the town, the Joseph Morton which is named after a local ironmonger. The pub opened in 2011 and it’s a sizeable affair, with a large ground floor area that has been created from former residential and commercial properties.

The rear part of the pub, with nearly all customers for some reason being in the front section. The pub, which was relatively quiet, had a bizarre set-up where customers had to wait at the entrance for a member of bar staff to shout from behind the bar to say that they could go in. The customers therefore just stood there for no reason before being told they could take a seat, all the time getting in the way of customers trying to get sauces which are located in the same area. Anyway, that’s a matter for the pub to deal with, although they should perhaps check with a little more care whether customers are filling in track and trace.

This is the upstairs of the pub and I’m assuming that there are usually a few tables here, as otherwise they have a grand entrance area to their toilets.

Richard went for a decadent hot chocolate drink, which he had to make for himself from the coffee machine. He looked initially scared, but after plenty of time stirring the chocolate lump in, he was more than content with the quality of the drink. I went for half a pint of the Honey Porter from Milestone Brewery, a decent beer that was keenly priced at just £1.

I had a little look on TripAdvisor, where the pub isn’t doing what could be termed as brilliantly, as I find reviews intriguing and I accept that I should probably get out more. Anyway, I wish I knew more about the back story behind this 1/5 review…

“Odd to ban my 17-year old daughter for a genuine complaint articulated politely and courteously.”

I’d very much like to know what the complaint was…. JD Wetherspoon don’t let pubs reply now on TripAdvisor, which makes it harder to understand what has happened. One review, which seemed believable at first sight, was met with:

“I understand that you were offered free drinks, a refund and apologised to profusely. The statement above has been taken out of context to my knowledge. The staff member on shift after offering multiple things didn’t know how to resolve this to make you happy so said that statement “what would you like me to do”.

Which probably gives customers the context that they need to understand what went on here…. Although I think I’m with the customer on this one:

“We went for lunch and ordered a Chicken Caesar Salad, which came as: lettuce, croutons and chicken pieces. Full stop. “Sorry we’ve run out of Caesar Dressing.” So why accept the order?”

I liked this one though:

“My very mature 16 year old daughter and her equally mature 16 year old friend went to Joseph Morton tonight for a celebration. The waitress refused to serve them because they hadn’t taken their passports and therefore couldn’t prove they were both 16.”

I’m frequently bemused as to how many people think it’s reasonable for what might be two younger teenagers in, for all the pub know, and then get angry that the pub wants ID to ensure they are 16.

I’m not sure that the new manager should have posted this though in a response to another complaint as the previous manager would unlikely be impressed with it:

“We have recently had a change in both front and back of house management and we are currently trying to build the reputation of the pub back to where it was.”

Anyway, I digress. All in all, this is a pleasant pub, although it could have been a little cleaner and the track and trace needed better supervision. They are also operating with the new JD Wetherspoon menu and I’ve yet to work out how the chain decide which pubs get selected for this. But, it has to be said, the half-pint of Honey Porter for £1 really is excellent value, and it’s positive to see that these real ales can be ordered via the app now.

September 14, 2020