Category: Poland

  • Warsaw – Tchorek Plaques (Solidarności Avenue)

    Warsaw – Tchorek Plaques (Solidarności Avenue)

    Tchorek Plaques are memorials around Warsaw which commemorate those who died and were injured in the city during the Second World War. The text on them reads “a place sanctified by the blood of Poles who died for the freedom of their homeland” and there’s further information which explains their relevance. They’re an important reminder of the city’s past and there are literally hundreds of them around the city.

    The memorial in the above photo marks where on 11 October 1943, forty Poles were shot on the street on the orders of the Austrian Franz Kutschera. He had taken up his new role as SS and Police Leader on 22 September 1943, but his evil meant that the Kedyw, a section of the Polish Home Army, assassinated him on 1 February 1944. The Germans killed 400 innocent Polish people, chosen at random, in retaliation for the murder.

    Located just a few metres away is this memorial, placed on the remainder of a building which once stood here. This memorial also marks killings ordered by Kutschera, with thirty Poles being shot here on 26 October 1943. At the time, this was also the intersection with Rymarska Street, but the road layout has changed and this street no longer exists.

    File:Plac Bankowy w Warszawie przed 1939.jpg

    Rymarska Street, on the right, before the Second World War.

  • Warsaw – Hotel Bellotto

    Warsaw – Hotel Bellotto

    This isn’t the hotel that I’m staying at, since I’m not made of money, but it’s an interesting building. It was originally built in the late sixteenth century and was designed to be used as the residence of the bishop, hence its current name of the Primate’s Palace. Like many things in the city, it was destroyed during the Swedish Wars in the 1650s and its replacement was also damaged during attacks in the early eighteenth century.

    Wings were added on both sides of the main building in the late eighteenth century.

    The building ceased to be used as a residence for bishops in 1795, thereafter being used by numerous governmental institutions. It was damaged badly early on during the Second World War, in September 1939, but was repaired following the end of the conflict. In the post-war period, the building was initially used for civic purposes, but was then turned into a hotel. The transformation into a hotel was recent, in 2015, with the former offices turned into rooms and minimal interior changes were made. The cellars were cleared out, two elevators were installed and twenty rooms and suites were created, with the hotel being five-star rated.

    More about the hotel here.

  • Warsaw – Swinging Chairs on the Royal Route

    Warsaw – Swinging Chairs on the Royal Route

    This is an interesting take on public benches, located along the Royal Route in Warsaw. How very modern.

  • Warsaw – Ibis Warsaw Centrum

    Warsaw – Ibis Warsaw Centrum

    I have quite a few stays in Warsaw planed for the next few weeks, this is the first of them in a hotel located around a 20-minute walk from the old town of the city. The welcome was friendly and engaging, with the staff member speaking perfect English.

    The bar area, which didn’t shut until 01:00, with food being served until around 23:00.

    To keep things simple, which I like, the hotel has listed the drinks which are included with the voucher for members of the loyalty scheme. The complimentary beer options were though extremely limited, although I suspect that this will start to gradually change over the next few years. There is a wider selection of beers on the regular drinks menu, but it’s still relatively limited.

    I went for the Żywiec, which took a little longer than expected as the barrel needed changing, but it tasted like it was meant to.

    The room, which was clean and comfortable with everything working as it should. It was on the sixth floor, so my usual plan to use the stairs was partly abandoned.

    The welcome amenity, fruit and breadsticks.

    The breakfast area.

    The salad items, although it’s the pickles which I particularly like.

    The breakfast area didn’t feel busy, even at what was probably one of their busier times of the morning, so all very relaxed. There were hot dog sausages, cold meats, cold cheeses, breads, cereals and machines serving coffees and juices.

    The only minor flaw I found with the hotel was they hadn’t cleaned the room by around 17:00 when I got back, although there was some clattering about outside a few minutes later, so I don’t think they’d forgotten and it was just being down later on. At this juncture, I put the privacy sign on the door so as to avoid traipsing downstairs whilst they cleaned the room (it’s very awkward trying to sit in a room being cleaned, as it’s near impossible not to be in the way). Although, if I had known this in advance, I’d have left the privacy sign up throughout the day and claimed the 100 Accor points which are available for guests who don’t want the room cleaned.

    I thought I’d have a little look on TripAdvisor for some of the more intriguing reviews. This one amused me:

    “Although we believed this was rated as 4* it was in fact no better than a hostel. The clue was a table football machine in the lobby. The room was clean but small and very basic. I towel per guest. No soap. Minute sized single pillows.
    Breakfast was adequate but overpriced. The staff in the main were helpful. It is situated on a semi main road by the side of tram tracks and therefore can be noisy. There are no facilities close other than a small supermarket next door and a bar within walking distance.. For what is offered this is too expensive. The clincher was the free bottled water but without a bottle opener.”

    Must have been galling for the staff to read this, although they replied professionally. Especially since Ibis self-declares itself as a two-star hotel and I’m not sure many mid-tier hotels offer soap any more, it’s nearly always liquid shower gel and soap. I’m intrigued about the lack of facilities since the hotel has its own restaurant and bar, perhaps some guests want a football stadium within the hotel. I was amused at the bottled water comment, as I momentarily pondered this, until looking at them and seeing that they were twist tops……

    “There was no English Breakfast – it was all salad and ham!! There was no Beans, Mushrooms, Fried Tomatoes, no hash browns or bacon.”

    No English breakfast in Poland, whatever next…..

    Overall, the hotel staff were all friendly, the room was clean and it was a peaceful and relaxed environment. Reasonably priced and just a short walk to the centre of Warsaw.

  • Warsaw – Krzyż Papieski (Papal Cross)

    Warsaw – Krzyż Papieski (Papal Cross)

    This is the site in the centre of Warsaw, at Piłsudski Square, where Pope John Paul II celebrated Mass on his first Papal pilgrimage to Poland. The Pope was instrumental in the transition of Poland from a communist influenced country to a fully fledged democracy. It was when the Pope said:

    “I cry out from the depths of this millennium – let your Spirit descend and renew the face of the earth. The face of this land.”

  • Warsaw – Cafe Kafka

    Warsaw – Cafe Kafka

    Located near to the Chopin Museum, this is a literary cafe and that’s something which I don’t think should be readily ignored….

    Books, which can be purchased either individually or by paying 10zl (around £2) per kilo.

    The cafe’s interior, all clean and comfortable.

    The coffee was well presented and had a richness of taste to it. There’s not table service here, or at least I ordered at the counter, with the staff members being helpful and friendly. As per usual, I ordered in Polish and the staff member replied in English with the price, so my accent is obviously coming along beautifully.

    Raisins? The little gingerbread figure was an agreeable touch.

    Anyway, very lovely and reasonably priced. There’s also a nice lawned area to the side of the cafe, ideal for sitting outside during the warmer months of the year.

  • Warsaw – Krakowskie Przedmieście Painting

    Warsaw – Krakowskie Przedmieście Painting

    I like when cities do this, putting old photographs or paintings in locations which show what the area once looked like. This is Krakowskie Przedmieście, part of the Royal Route in Warsaw, with this artwork painted by Canaletto (not the famous one, but his relative also known as Bernardo Bellotto). Many of the buildings have been reconstructed due to damage during the Second World War, but not much has really changed in terms of the overall layout of the area.

  • Warsaw – Brewdog

    Warsaw – Brewdog

    This is puzzling, Warsaw had a Brewdog, but it was open for just under one year. I can’t work out why they shut it, whether it was a lack of trade or there was a problem with the building. It must have been an expensive exercise to open the bar for just one year and I’m a little surprised that there wasn’t the trade for it. There was a lot of press attention when they opened, but very little coverage of the closure. It also means that there are no Brewdog outlets at all in Poland, surprising given that some neighbouring countries have them…..

  • Warsaw – Remnants of Sigismund’s Column

    Warsaw – Remnants of Sigismund’s Column

    Located by the Royal Castle are two segments of former pieces of Sigismund’s Column, with the more modern replacement today being one of Warsaw’s landmarks.

    This is the current Sigismund’s Column, which was first constructed in 1644, with this one being completed in 1949.

    There are two pieces of column, this section stood between 1644 and 1887 when it was replaced by new granite.

    The end of the 1644 to 1887 column.

    This section (which is also the section in the main photo) dates from 1887 and it stood until 1944, when the Germans blew up the column and destroyed it. I’m pleased that these sections survive, they tell a story of their own about the history of the column and give it extra resonance.

  • Warsaw – Christmas Tree

    Warsaw – Christmas Tree

    Christmas may be over, which is good for me as a tourist as the city of Warsaw isn’t packed, but the Christmas tree at plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) is still there.