Category: Poland

  • British Airways (Heathrow T5 to Warsaw)

    British Airways (Heathrow T5 to Warsaw)

    This is BA A320 G-EUYR after arriving into Warsaw Chopin Airport, an aircraft which has been in the BA fleet since 2013 and one I’ve not been on before. The boarding process at Heathrow T5 C Gates was well managed and customers were boarded from the rear seats to the front, which was efficient and has replaced the previous priority boarding system.

    The aircraft, which was probably around 40% occupied.

    I had a row of emergency exit row seats to myself and the overhead lockers were only lightly filled, so there was no problem in finding a space.

    Power was available in the form of plug sockets and USB sockets.

    When boarding, every customer received a hand gel and disinfecting wipe in a larger plastic bag, which the crew collected later on during the flight. The aircraft was as clean as I’ve seen BA manage before, so I’m confident that their new cleaning regime is working for them.

    The Buy on Board (BOB) system, which I always hated, has been scrapped for the moment and customers were given this bag free of charge. It contains a packet of crisps, a packet of shortbread and a bottled water. The crew members were visible throughout the flight, giving clear announcements about what customers could do. This was important as I was unsure of the process, so customers had to wear masks throughout and could only go to the washrooms when the green light was on. Anyone who wasn’t going to wear a mask had to explain this situation to the staff at the gate and the crew reminded a few customers to put their mask up over their nose during the flight.

    High Life Magazine is no longer offered in the seat backs, but it can be read on-line. There’s wi-fi which costs £2.99 for a flight, but I wasn’t that desperate to check e-mails during the journey.

    This flight was reasonably priced at £30.52 for a single journey, which I consider to be excellent value bearing in mind BA also supplied me with lunch and drinks in the lounge, as well as on-board snacks. All told, I remain very impressed that British Airways have managed to deliver such a positive experience given the ridiculous limitations that they’re operating within. And, this is why I don’t feel the need to switch to another airline.

  • Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Execution of Rudolf Hoess)

    Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Execution of Rudolf Hoess)

    From May 1940 until January 1945, other than for a short period in early 1944 when he was in Berlin, Rudolf Hoess was the camp commandant at Auschwitz-Birkenau. He managed to evade capture after the end of the Second World War, but British forces eventually caught up with him, arresting him in his new role as a farm-worker. The trial was under the control of the new Polish government and it began on 11 March 1947. Hoess was found guilty on 2 April 1947 and after some deliberation, it was decided that he should die at Auschwitz on 14 April 1947.

    This is the location where Hoess was hanged for his crimes against humanity. The execution was photographed, but the public was mostly limited from watching, following the grisly scenes in Poznan when Arthur Greise was executed when it turned into almost a day out for families.

    Copyright Auschwitz Museum

    Hoess being escorted to the gallows. Before he died, the Polish authorities had encouraged him to write his memoirs, to ensure that his story was told. Before his death, Hoess had sought the presence of a priest, which was allowed and Hoess was the last person to be killed at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

     

  • Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Railroad Car)

    Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Railroad Car)

    This railroad car has been placed at the ramp at Birkenau concentration camp where victims were hounded off trains to face the selection process, where most were sent immediately to their deaths. Over 120,000 of these cars were produced in Germany between 1919 and 1925, designed to transport freight around the country. Thousands of them were ultimately used to transport victims as part of the Nazi’s final solution plan, each initially intended to hold 50 people but there were frequently over 150 in this small space.

    The railroad car here was restored with funding from Sir Frank Lowy, the former chairman of the Westfield shopping centre company. His father, Hugo Lowy, was beaten to death here on the ramp when he refused to leave his Jewish prayer shawl on the train. Frank Lowy only found out about this over forty years on and he said about his father:

    “Actually, in a way, in all my sadness, I felt very proud: that my father was able to make such a sacrifice of his life for his principles. I finally found out what happened to him. I used to dream about him, but after I discovered it, I didn’t dream anymore. You know, it was kind of a closure. In my dreams about my father, he bent over me and I didn’t know if he was really there or not. I dreamed about him many, many times. The dreams have not returned. So it must have been some kind of closure.”

    The railroad car may not have been one which actually transported prisoners, but is an authentic one from the period. What is known though is that Hugo Lowy died at around the spot where the railroad car is now placed. A tribute not just to him, but to all those who died here.

  • Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Room of Shoes)

    Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Room of Shoes)

    Much has already been written about this room at Auschwitz-Birkenau, the shoes that were taken from victims when they arrived at the concentration camp. There are around 25,000 pairs of shoes here, this would be about the number of shoes taken every day or two at the camp, to give this some sense of perspective. The leather smell from the shoes is also evident when visitors walk into the room as the shoes very slowly decay.

    United States Holocaust Memorial Museum, courtesy of Yad Vashem (Public Domain)

    This photo was taken at Auschwitz in May 1944, when the female prisoners were given the task of sorting the shoes that had been taken from mostly Hungarian Jews.

  • Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Birkenau – Wooden Barrack for Children)

    Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp (Birkenau – Wooden Barrack for Children)

    It’s hard to imagine the suffering that would have taken place in this small area, formerly a wooden barracks at Birkenau where children were kept. They were mostly Jewish twins, kept alive for a while so that Josef Mengele could conduct experiments on them.

    Mengele would work in his laboratories every morning, before rushing to the ramps where Jewish prisoners were being brought in by train in vast numbers nearly every day. Usually Hungarian Jews, he would monitor the selection process of who would live and die, looking particularly for anyone he considered might be useful for his medical research.

    The children would for a while receive sufficient food and drink, and for the twins, it was essential that both stayed alive. If one died, usually due to some experiment initiated by Mengele, then the other would be killed so that there could be a comparable autopsy.

    Today, there isn’t much left of this barracks. Like many others on the site, it was only ever a temporary wooden structure and it wasn’t well-built at the time meaning it has since been lost. All that remains now is the bricked area in the centre of the barracks, which was part of a rudimentary and mostly ineffective brick heating duct.

  • Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp

    Oświęcim – Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camp

    I visited Auschwitz-Birkenau just over four years ago, in 2016, which pre-dates this blog. I’ve never wanted to re-visit the camp, although it’s somewhere that perhaps in an ideal world that everyone would want to go and see, to understand what happened here.

    I’ll put more photos up over the next few days in separate posts, but there are three I took that day that are the most memorable to me.

    This is a replacement sign as the original one was stolen in 2009. It was recovered, albeit cut into three pieces, but the replacement was left up and the original is now in the camp’s museum. It’s at the entrance to Auschwitz (Auschwitz and Birkenau are two different camps, but are nearby and are grouped together) and it’s one of the first things that visitors see. I had deliberately arrived early on in the morning as I didn’t want to go around in a guided tour, I preferred to walk around on my own. So, there were relatively few people around at this time and the camp felt quiet and still.

    This is the railway line that led into Birkenau, the right-hand side is the ramp, where selections would have been made on who would live and who would be killed immediately. Thousands of people would arrive here, 80% would be killed immediately including nearly all the children. For some children, they never realised what was happening. They usually arrived on cattle trucks and parents would often provide reassurance to their children that things would be better here. I’m not sure that many parents thought that it would be, but that gave some hope to the hundreds of thousands of innocent children who were denied the chance to live their life.

    Something like 1.1 million people died at Auschwitz-Birkenau, although the true number will never be known. The number is too big to comprehend. Thomas Buergenthal, a child survivor from the camp said about the 6 million Jews killed in the Holocaust:

    “One of the problems with the six million number is that nobody can imagine that. You cannot personalize six million. You can personalize one person. I think it expresses a reality. It is true, because each one of those souls was killed, and each one had an individuality of his own, a history, a memory, a life, and that is lost in this whole discussion when we sort of cavalierly go over and speak about six million. It’s important to keep that in mind.”

    So, I picked one individual from the many photographs on the walls. Seweryn Głuszecki, with a colourisation of his photo at https://facesofauschwitz.com/gallery/seweryn-gluszecki/. So little is known about him, he was born on 19 June 1925 and arrived at the camp from Krakow on 17 April 1942. He died on 20 June 1942. Seweryn’s father Norbert and his brother Rudolf were also transported to Auschwitz. Norbert died on 13 May 1942 and Rudolf died on 24 June 1942.

    It’s only when thinking of one individual, whoever it might be, that the realisation of just how enormous a figure 1.1 million people is then starts to make sense.

  • The Pianist by Władysław Szpilman

    The Pianist by Władysław Szpilman

    I posted earlier this week about when I visited to see the property where Władysław Szpilman was found by a German who helped to save his life.

    I had only seen the film the Pianist, but was recommended to read the book which Szpilman wrote and which the film was based on. It also has some extracts from the diaries of Wilm Hosenfeld and I have to say (write) that the book was hard to put down and I got through it in a couple of hours. I’m pleased to note that the book is available for free here. There might be a queue to read it, as it works like a library and only a limited number of people can have the book downloaded at one time.

  • Warsaw – Ibis Warszawa Ostrobramska

    Warsaw – Ibis Warszawa Ostrobramska

    I stayed at this hotel twice over the last month, once for one night and once for four nights. I also had to delay writing this review until I spoke to Accor customer services, as the hotel’s manager entirely confused me. Although the hotel has given the blog a new tag-line.

    My first visit was mildly confused as the room they gave me wasn’t ready, although fortunately a cleaner stopped me en route and helpfully referred me back to reception. She was very polite, but I was in no hurry so I walked back to reception and thought that I’d enjoy the welcome drink. Little did I know incidentally about the later welcome drink debacle.

    The only beer available was Zywiec and this was under-poured. But, since it’s Zywiec, I wasn’t too bothered. The staff member was very apologetic about the room mix-up and I was offered the food menu, which I decided against, but I thought that the staff had been so polite that I’d dine here on my return visit.

    The bottled water and a chocolate. I wasn’t sure whether this was in every room or it was a welcome gift, but either way, it was all very nice.

    The room, which I’m entirely content with. On the Ibis room matter I posted excessively about, I’ve been moderately relieved to hear from Accor that their plans are being tempered, so we’ll have to see what happens with the future of Ibis rooms and their modernisation programme.

    The breakfast room, which is also where meals are served in the afternoon and evening.

    The breakfast selection, cold meats, cheeses and there are some hot items available as well.

    Right, but now onto the second visit, which started fine and all was well.

    About once a year, I get bad service at a pub, restaurant or hotel. It’s incredibly rare for me to experience, something like 1 every 150 visits or so. And, I try and be sympathetic as I don’t know why I’ve received poor service, it could be that the staff member has received some bad news, they’re tired from working hard or something which is entirely relatable. I’ve never previously poor service in Poland, on all my tens of trips, this was the first.

    I’ve also spent the last 31 days non-stop in Accor hotels, so I thought it’d be interesting to try the food at an Ibis hotel, and as mentioned above, I had intended to eat here as the staff member had been friendly on the previous occasion. I was also conscious that the Accor member of staff I had spoken to at their Head Office had said they’d monitor my experiences, which is almost certainly something said to shut me up, but I like to please. Ibis run with the same menu across Poland, but I haven’t had anything from it for a couple of years and it’s nice to see how things develop.

    On a different note, I was pleased to receive this drinks voucher which is new marketing as part of Accor’s switch to the ALL loyalty programme. This differed from the previous voucher I had received at this hotel and, experienced as I might be with Accor vouchers, I hadn’t seen this one.

    Just as an aside on this, there are plenty of drinks vouchers out there and hotels vary in what they offer. They don’t have to be really generous and offer nearly any drink, but some do and they’d use the voucher on the right. Some are more limited, they put on the voucher to check the drinks at the bar, it’s a more limited list. They’re equally common and both are used in Poland. I don’t much care which is used, it’s a little gesture, I don’t assume that I’m going to get the most delicious craft beer.

    Anyway, back to being pleased with Accor’s drinks voucher for this hotel. I thought I’d opt for a Zywiec Porter and a burger from the main menu, perhaps buying another drink later on. This plan was all going swimmingly, until I got to the bar.

    The barman ignores me and my hello in Polish, but I put that down to the translation issue that I can’t speak the local language very well and clearly they can. Sometimes I get that a staff member can’t speak English and it’s no doubt frustrating for them. Anyway, he clearly doesn’t want to serve any customers, offering someone else before me a less than polite service, and by this stage he seemed entirely irate at me and ignored me for a little while before serving me. Unfortunately, the barman decided that I must be stupid and he made that very clear. His behaviour didn’t credit his hotel, but we’ll put that down to factors that I have no knowledge of. But, staff sneering at customers isn’t a good look.

    A relatively large number of my friends don’t like going to restaurants or bars on their own, they find it difficult. I’ve long stopped since caring about these matters for me, but I do always ponder how it would affected friends that would have built up confidence to order at a bar. Conscious that customer service staff are on the receiving end of all manner of abuse, I’ll assume that this barman was having a bad day, but it was some of the worst customer service that I’ve seen and exceptionally rare for Poland.

    But, I’m not going to deal with anyone who sneers at customers so I opted for a Pepsi to take to my room, and abandoned my plan to order food. However, I did e-mail the hotel from upstairs (how very British of me, although I did this as I didn’t want any service recovery, I thought that I was being helpful) and query their bloody voucher as without that, I’d have probably never encountered the poor service and I’d have instead happily ordered food. To cut a very long story short, they are defining “any drink other than champagne or spirits” as “any small beer, wine or soft drink”. So, it’s not any drink other than champagne or spirits, indeed, it’s a tiny choice from what they offer paying customers. And, really, the hotel management is blaming Orbis (the company who run Accor hotels in Poland) for giving them the voucher to give out. The management seemed to think it was fine to just hand the voucher out, not mention any limitations, let customers sit down in the restaurant and then mention at this stage the voucher isn’t being honoured. Why on earth try and turn the positivity of a free welcome drink into a negative, I’m unsure.

    This situation confused me, and I decided that I must be an idiot and that the hotel manager was perhaps entirely correct. However, I spoke to Accor customer service, and they replied that the hotel should stop using that voucher and I should tell the hotel manager. At this point, I realised I had done enough to reassure myself that the hotel was at fault, so I just left it. I didn’t tell them that it was the hotel manager that decided the voucher was correct.

    But, moving on to my thoughts about the hotel generally. The staff at breakfast and the cleaning staff were all friendly and polite, the hotel was spotlessly clean and there were no noise problems either internally or externally. There’s not much point in trying to re-evaluate my entire experience because the member of bar staff sneered at me, but nonetheless, I can’t help thinking that the manager’s decision to give customers a voucher which told them they could get any drink, and then decide that this meant “any drink from a list” was really to blame here. But, such things are up to them, and I was otherwise happy with the hotel. It’s located a little way from the centre of Warsaw, but there are frequent trams which stop just a few minutes away, so it’s not an inconvenient location given that. The prices can also be a little cheaper than the city centre Ibis hotels because of its location.

  • Warsaw – Chopin Airport Bolero Lounge

    Warsaw – Chopin Airport Bolero Lounge

    The lounge that British Airways use at Warsaw Chopin Airport is the Bolero Lounge, located in the non-Schengen section of the airport after the automated passport control. There was a friendly welcome from the staff member behind the desk when I entered and I didn’t have to wait to be given entry into the lounge as there was no queue.

    The main food section of the lounge.

    Some higher tables and chairs.

    Fridges with soft drinks.

    There was some hot food, which didn’t look too exciting. The Greek salad was though lovely, with olives on the shelf above it as well.

    I had quite a chunk of the lounge’s blue cheese, but there were other types of cheese to choose from and also some cold cuts. There were also cereals, yoghurts and some wraps.

    Chocolate.

    Fudge.

    How very lovely. The lounge didn’t let me down with regards to the chocolate selection and there was a lady from the United States who was almost beside herself with excitement over the options available to her. I was quite pleased by that as she left a larger pile of empty chocolate wrappers than I did.

    Since my flight was delayed by an hour, I thought I’d have one beer. I hadn’t heard of this one, it’s a Pilsner style beer brewed by Browary Lubelskie, a brewery founded in an abandoned monastery in 1844. They also make the big-selling Perła beer, which I have heard of before. The beer was fine, nothing exceptional, but it met my expectations and I hadn’t exactly expected the lounge to stock a range of craft beers to meet my ridiculously pretentious needs.

    The lounge got busy during the three hours that I was in there, although it was relatively quiet when I had arrived. I found a power point to charge my devices, although there weren’t as many of these as there perhaps could have been. The staff were going around the lounge on a regular basis clearing away empty plates and glasses, so it all felt clean and organised. The toilets are also located at the rear of the lounge, so there’s no need for customers to leave and come back in.

    I gained entry into the lounge as part of my BA status, although they also accept Priority Pass and similar card schemes. There’s also the opportunity for customers to buy entry, which is currently 130zl, or £26, which seems a ridiculously high price to me which goes beyond the price of some UK lounges. I suspect that people might be best to spend their £26 in the range of airport restaurants, but each to their own….

    There aren’t any announcements made in the lounge, but there were plenty of screens and it transpired that it was just a five-minute walk to the gate for my BA flight. The lounge was generally peaceful other than for some idiot doing rounds of the lounge whilst talking loudly into his phone, I suspect so that people could hear how important he was. I didn’t credit him with more general awareness, so I doubted that he realised that people were making their own visible and audible opinions on him behind his back.

    Anyway, a peaceful and clean lounge, and I’d happily come back here for a few hours if I fly back from Warsaw Chopin Airport in the future. All very lovely.

  • Warsaw – Train from City Centre to Chopin Airport

    Warsaw – Train from City Centre to Chopin Airport

    Above is the S2 train having arrived into Warsaw Chopin Airport, so that’s the end of my one month stay in Poland. Well, assuming that my BA flight to London Heathrow arrives in as expected.

    My tram hadn’t arrived into Warsaw city centre until just after the S2 train left from Warszawa Powiśle railway station to the airport. However, I hadn’t visited that railway station before, so I thought I’d meander around for thirty minutes until the next train. By chance, and surprisingly as Polish trains are normally so punctual, I managed to catch the train before which was running a few minutes late. I only just caught that as I had been faffing about reading history information boards, but it was a most convenient way of saving half an hour.

    The train wasn’t particularly busy and arrived just a few minutes later than it should have done into the airport. I already had my day ticket for Warsaw public transport (which costs under £3), but it’s easy to buy tickets at machines throughout Warsaw city centre. I haven’t had my tickets checked at any time in Warsaw though, but there are quite steep fines for anyone who doesn’t have one and that acts as the deterrent.

    So, all very lovely, although I’m not entirely thrilled to be leaving Poland.